Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, November 14 2002 Volume
01 : Number 998
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:45:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Is it possible to upgrade a Dodge Stealth with a hitch ?
Just curious, what are you planning on towing with it?
Roger
L
F15DOC
- --- "Roger L. Skoglund" <
norbolig@online.no> wrote:
>
Hello,
>
> probably a strange question for most of the
members,
> but anyway here it comes:
>
> have anyone seen a
hitch for a Dodge Stealth on the
> market (actually for a 1991 R/T twin
turbo)? I have
> seen it available for other sports vehicles like
the
> Corvette C4.
>
> Would highly appreciate any
tip.
>
> Best regards,
> Roger L. Skoglund, Oslo,
Norway
> (right now, with 20 cm snow outside my window - a
> ideal
weather for a awd Dodge Stealth)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 21:52:00 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Is it possible to upgrade a Dodge Stealth with a hitch ?
You just missed one on EBay:
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 15:52:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Is it possible to upgrade a Dodge Stealth with a hitch ?
Sure, Uhaul has the part that bolts right up.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:13:47 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New headlight capsules and thanks
Hey guys,
I have a 1993 VR4 and I just bought new
Sylvania Silverstar halogen capsules (
http://www.sylvania.com/auto/silverstar.htm).
Are these the best to get without going true HID? I have them on my
Impala SS and they are much better than stock but before I go and put them on
I want your input.
I also have the new PIAA silicone wiper blades on order,
should be here next week, I'll let you know how they are.
Take Care
Vinny
p.s. Thanks to all the people who have been replying to my
emails! This list is great! There is just too many emails to
write back individually.
Thanks again
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:28:36 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Open Track Troubles
I'm going to have to deal with a couple issues that came up after my last
open track weekend that I could use some input on. My BFG's have
been chunking (generous pieces of tread coming off) the last couple
weekends. I'm wandering if one particularly hot weekend at Gingerman heat cycled
the rubber to the point of changing it's structure. Unfortunately,
the tires have a ton of tread with the exception of this one series of
tread blocks. It seems like a shame to trash them. On the other
hand, a blowout on the track would be seriously un-cool.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:33:00 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Open Track Troubles
Just overdrove the available air pressures and/or camber you have
available.
BFGs are great autox tires, but they can overheat pretty easy with abuse on
a road course.
Chunking is what happens with tall tread blocks..why racers shave em down
new.
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, Dave and Becky Trent wrote:
> I'm going to have to deal with a couple issues that came up after my
> last open track weekend that I could use some input on. My BFG's
have
> been chunking (generous pieces of tread coming off) the last
couple
> weekends. I'm wandering if one particularly hot weekend at
Gingerman
> heat cycled the rubber to the point of changing it's
structure.
> Unfortunately, the tires have a ton of tread with the
exception of
> this one series of tread blocks. It seems like a shame to
trash them.
> On the other hand, a blowout on the track would be
seriously un-cool.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:34:38 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Rotor Wear
After switching to Porterfield R4 compound, the wear on my rotors is
severe. Whereas the R4S would leave the rotors smooth, the R4's groove the
surface severely. Is there any benefit to having the rotors
resurfaced? Is it necessary to resurface the pads at the same time?
Aside from the wear, I've found the R4's to be the best track pads I've
used so far.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:39:05 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Open Track Troubles
Thanks Geoff, that was fast. On close inspection, I noticed one of
the chunks went quite deep (1/4in. or so). I'm still wandering if
the tires are safe. While your online, are you able to send me a quote of
the R4S's for my wife's A4? I'm going to need them soon, as the factory
pads are quite low.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
When are you using the R4?
A COLD R4 is gonna be hard on your rotor..and could chunk as well.
Just wondering.
It's part of the tradeoff with high perf pads, but not everyone has
experienced it.
On our RX7, I can use 3-5 sets of R4 pads before I have to change
rotors..and that's every 2yrs probly.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:44:57 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Open Track Troubles
Tread rubber wont weaken the tire..just cause traction/stability issues as
you turn on it..in a corner. Nothing major tho..but will lead to
more chunking of the area.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:52:34 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Rotor Wear
I used them on the street for a few weeks prior to bedding them in the
night before the track use. They were wearing fine prior to the
heavy track use so I can't blame insufficient rotor temp. I don't
know that the actual depth of wear concerns me as much as how it is wearing,
i.e. deep grooves. I noticed it after the first session on Sat. and
continued to use them hard all weekend without it getting worse. I
have seen the results of chunking brake pads, it's similar but far more
severe. I was wandering if mine were going to progress to that
point.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
Ahh..you were using them before bedding them...
That's critical. You're probly suffering from hard/soft spots on the
pad because the material wasn't bedded/sealed freshly on
installation.
Bedding rotors and heat cycling new pads is key to their lifetime.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 18:05:03 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Open Track Troubles
I've used my BFG KDW (don't make KD anymore) for 3 morning track sessions
and for a whole day at Fontana. Have to be a little careful not to
overdrive, but they have held up well, no chunking anywhere.
I am also adamant about straight line braking. Trying to trail brake in a
heavy car can lead to chunking. Brake, then turn. Take what the car will
give you even if it means altering what you 'think' is the perfect line
and style.
Chunking seems mostly to occur with low air pressure and overdriving. Make
sure you warm them up a few laps. Way overpressure and overdriving can do
it too. Sounds like you really should advance to track tires, Kumho, Toyo,
Hoosier.
IMHO, Kurt
------------------------------
BFG what? Comp T/A, R1, what?
------------------------------
At 05:34 PM 11/13/02 -0500, you wrote:
>After switching to
Porterfield R4 compound, the wear on my rotors is
>severe. >Whereas
the R4S would leave the rotors smooth, the R4's groove
>the surface
>severely. Is there any benefit to having the rotors
>resurfaced? Is it >necessary to resurface the pads at the same
time?
>Aside from the wear, I've >found the R4's to be the best
track pads
>I've used so far.
I hope you are not using these on the street.
They will flat EAT a rotor
when cold.
If it's just track wear, then what you are seeing is normal. It may not
actually be grooved rotors, it may just be deposits from the pads.
I always swapped pads before and after an event. Afterward, I'd put stock
pads in. Often, they would clean up the rotor all by themselves. Before an
event, I'd put in a set of new R4 pads. If the rotors looked nasty, I'd
take them down to the shop for a clean up turn for $5 per rotor.
BTW, I've switched to Carbotech Panther Plus pads. You can actually use
them on the street. (I don't, because they are too noisy, but you can.)
They last a lot longer than R4 pads -- typically 2+ events (5 track days),
then the remainder goes into the spare pads box. I used to use a set of R4
pads per weekend.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
I dunno what you do to eat R4s up in 2 events..I really don't...
------------------------------
At 05:52 PM 11/13/02 -0500, Dave and Becky Trent wrote:
>I used them
on the street for a few weeks prior to bedding them in the
>night before
the track use.
Dave, I don't think you bedded them in properly.
One day of street
driving is enough to "season" the rotor (i.e., introduce the rotor to the
new compound). Then, bed them in with a few hard stops the night before.
Like Geoff said, maybe you put too many street miles on 'em. Actually, I
don't know how you put up with a "few weeks" of squeak-squawk from the
race pads. It drove me nuts, which is why I couldn't wait to put the
street pads back in.
Wait'll you get a set of Big Red calipers -- you can change a set of pads
in 5 minutes (or less!), at the same time as you are putting street tires
back on.
Rich
------------------------------
I did in a set at Road America in ONE DAY!!
I used to stand on the brakes. Now, I hardly use them at all. Ain't driving
lessons wonderful?
Rich
------------------------------
*laugh*
Good point.
> I did in a set at Road America in ONE DAY!!
>
> I used to
stand on the brakes. Now, I hardly use them at all. Ain't
> driving
lessons wonderful?
>
> Rich
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:09:43 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Rotor Wear
Ahh, perhaps I was negligent in my brake in procedure. Just to be
clear, are you saying the best way to bed the R4's is to heat them up to
track temp. right after you put them on?
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:12:09 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Rotor Wear
I'm inclined to agree with Geoff. I expect to get 4 or 5
weekends out of a
set.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:16:38 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Rotor Wear
My vote: pads.
Too hard, defective or improperly installed.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave and Becky Trent
Sent:
Wednesday, November 13, 2002 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Rotor
Wear
I used them on the street for a few weeks prior to bedding them in the
night before the track use. They were wearing fine prior to the
heavy track use so I can't blame insufficient rotor temp. I don't
know that the actual depth of wear concerns me as much as how it is wearing,
i.e. deep grooves. I noticed it after the first session on Sat. and
continued to use them hard all weekend without it getting worse. I
have seen the results of chunking brake pads, it's similar but far more
severe. I was wandering if mine were going to progress to that
point.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
At 07:09 PM 11/13/02 -0500, Dave and Becky Trent wrote:
>Ahh, perhaps
I was negligent in my brake in procedure. Just to be
>clear, are
you saying the best way to bed the R4's is to heat them up
>to track
temp. right after you put them on?
No. First you "season" them, by driving around on the street for a day or
so. Then "bed" them. Read the instructions that came with the pads.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:18:07 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Rotor Wear
Rich,
My bedding procedure was light street use, (oh ya, they squeak like a
stuck...but it sounds race) for 50 miles or so and then 3 or 4 80 to 40
full ABS stops. I thought I had a reliable procedure worked out, but
evidently I came up short this time. BTW, I've been running big reds for
the last couple seasons.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 21:13:54 EST
From:
Jawscardodger@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
Head Leaking Coolant!!
I have a 1993 vr4.Coolant is leaking out of a metal seal on the back head
where the timing belt cover bracket attaches to the head. There is also a
wire attached there. Is there a gasket that goes there? The coolant leaks
out
even with the car not running. What do I need to do to fix the leak?
THANKS
Jim
------------------------------
I have a 1993 vr4 I took the crank pulley off the p/s and ac alt pulley. I
can slide the two pulleys apart. Also the ps pulley turns inside the ac/alt
pulley. Is this normal? If not can this be fixed? Thanks Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:13:42 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Head Leaking Coolant!!
What metal seal? A round stamped coolant plug?
Philip
At 21:13 11/13/2002,
Jawscardodger@cs.com wrote:
>I have
a 1993 vr4.Coolant is leaking out of a metal seal on the back
>head where
the timing belt cover bracket attaches to the head. There is
>also a wire
attached there. Is there a gasket that goes there? The
>coolant leaks out
even with the car not running. What do I need to do
>to fix the leak?
THANKS Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:54:45 -0500
From: "Penny Kospiah" <
pkospiah@fast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Oil changes
It's time for my GT's first oil change. I looked at the FAQ and they
only talk about using jack stands. If we're using a floor jack
instead of stands, where under the front end does the jack get
placed? Also, does anyone know if a standard mopar oil filter (the short
filter) can be used?
I'm now on my second GT (this one's a 1997 SL) and I've always taken them
to a Jiffy Lube but I now have someone who's willing to change the
oil. Also, is there anything he should know about changing the oil
in the GT that may be different from any other car?
Thanks for your help,
Penny Kospiah
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:03:59 -0600
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
changes
The one time I had a mechanic do my oil change he used a large floor
jack and placed the head of the jack on the large metal beam running
lengthwise underneath the engine. I'd recommend putting a 2x4 on top of
the jack to even the load on the beam however. You'll see what I mean.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:08:29 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil changes
I don't even bother jacking mine up.... A small 6 quart drain pan is
generally small enough to slide under the oil drain plug, and everything
else can be reached by sliding partially under the car...
What's best... If you have a driveway edge that drops down a couple
inches, that is perfect to do this... simply nose off that edge til
the front tires are close to the edge - gives you a lot more
space...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 23:10:29 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil changes
As the instructions with any jackstand state - you are NOT supposed to work
under a car that is only supported by a floor jack. You must use
jack stands. And if you bought this floor jack at Pep Boys or Sears
then the $39.99 or $59.99 usually includes four jack stands (of at least
2-ton capacity each).
I believe Jeff Lucius (
www.stealth316.com) or John Adams have on
their site where to place the jack and jack stands.
On the VR-4 model there is a jacking plate under the front that is slightly
different from the Base or SL 3000GT (not sure about the Stealth, R/T, and
R/T TT ones though).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with lots-o-practice with jacks and jack
stands
- -----Original Message-----
From: Penny Kospiah
Sent: Wednesday,
November 13, 2002 22:55
It's time for my GT's first oil change. I looked at the FAQ and they
only talk about using jack stands. If we're using a floor jack
instead of stands, where under the front end does the jack get
placed? Also, does anyone know if a standard mopar oil filter (the short
filter) can be used?
I'm now on my second GT (this one's a 1997 SL) and I've always taken them
to a Jiffy Lube but I now have someone who's willing to change the
oil. Also, is there anything he should know about changing the oil
in the GT that may be different from any other car?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 23:20:57 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil changes
At 23:03 11/13/2002, David Allison wrote:
>The one time I had a
mechanic do my oil change he used a large floor
>jackstand placed the
head of the jack on the large metal beam running
> lengthwise underneath
the engine. I'd recommend putting a 2x4 on
> top of the jack to even the
load on the beam however. You'll see
> what I mean.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 21:24:07 -0800
From: "Shaun Cameron" <
stealth@blizzarddesign.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Finally An Owner! Getting Started Questions...
Hi again,
After two seasons of searching for the Dodge Stealth
that would fit me best I finally discovered a white 1991 Dodge Stealth RT
for $4895 in Portland, OR. The price was awesome and the cosmetics on the
car were even better. I've watched this list from a distance for awhile and took
in all the information I could for when I finally owned one of these
wonderful cars.
In any case, when I was preparing to buy this Stealth, I had a mechanic
check it over to see if he could find anything that could cause problems
or for any major reasons not to buy this particular Stealth. Everything
passed inspection and the only thing that returned as questionable was the
Valve/Oil Leak/Heads problem that the mechanic said was so common for our 3.0
Liter Mitsubishi engines. He showed me what he called the 'smoke test'
where he let the car idle for 20 minutes and at that point pushed the
accelerator. This resulted in a LOT of smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
That was discouraging but I went through with the purchase anyway because I was
able to work the price down so low.
The car has 120,000 miles on it and just had a new clutch put in
(everything except for the Clutch Slave Cylinder that he never got around
to putting in. He gave that to me in a separate box as a bonus to add it
in later when it actually needed it.) He told me that the timing belt and all
of the essential 60k stuff was done to it less than 30,000 miles ago. Is
there any way to be sure of this?
So, to make a long story short, I live in the Portland, OR area and needed
any advice on if I should get this Valve/Oil Leak/Heads problem fixed
immediately and if so how much should I expect to pay for this? Beyond
that I'm sure a few of you know some reputable and (possible somewhat
cheap?) mechanics in the area that I should check out if something goes wrong.
This is my first *real* car and I want to take the care to keep it running
for many years to come.
Thanks a lot you guys, your help is truly appreciated and I'm extremely
happy to finally be driving around one of these cars like the rest of
you!
- -Shaun Cameron
A *New* Happy Dodge Stealth Owner :)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 21:38:39 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <
nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Finally An Owner! Getting Started Questions...
Congrats, the only thing better than living in the Portland area is to own
a 3000GT or Stealth and live in the Portland area. I bought my '92 VR4
about a year ago down in Salem but I live in Beaverton. You should think
about learning to do as much of your own wrenching as possible, it's not
only fun and satisfying, but you know what you're getting. Sounds like you are
young think about going out to PCC and taking some auto mechanic
classes.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:31:43 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ignition advance question
Hi Brian,
> I'm in the process of tuning my AEM EMS, and I often find myself
> wonder what the stock ECU did in certain situations. The
fuel
> is easy enough the figure out, but the timing advance is not
as
> obvious.
>
> Does anybody have any idea how much the
stock ECU advances the
> timing while driving? I'm sure it runs more
advance during
> cruise, but how much? I'm also sure it runs less advance
during
> higher load, but again, how much?
>
> Is ignition
advance loggable on 1st gen cars? If so, does anybody
> have logs
of their car during idling, cruising, and boosting?
> I certainly don't
need full-blown maps, I'm just looking for a
> few starting points for my
tuning.
Yes, both Datalogger and Pocketlogger can log timing. Unfortunately,
they report the wrong values (apparently, the values are correctly
reported for the 4 cylinder engines). The logs do produce good
timing graphs though.
Anyway, my Pocketlogger values are approximately:
idle
~45
light throttle cruising ~35-45
medium throttle cruising
~30-40
WOT, immediately drops to ~25, then gradually increases to ~35.
If I remember correctly, when I put a timing light on the crank, it reads
about 20-30 btdc (without grounding the connector). So for starting
points, maybe you can try: idle ~25 cruising ~20 WOT, ~13 increasing to
~20
Sorry I can't give more specific data. Hope this helps though.
Good luck.
- -Ken
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 06:52:35 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Rotor Wear
I went through 2/3 of a set of R4 pads in one [long] day event with two
high-speed braking points per lap. The pads were charred white and
the cryoed Porterfield rotors grooved. I BBQed the pads before
installation, bedded them on the way to the track and drove home on them before
swapping in the R4S pads. Performance of the R4S pads seems to be
about the same as before the rotor grooving, so I've decided to ignore
it.
BTW, where are the latest track reports?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 23:07:57 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ignition advance question
Well Ken, I would love to offer my help, but my car is busted and will be a
while. However, one good way would be to find a car as similar to yours as
possible and have the run a pocketlogger. Mine shows timing advance and I
have a few logs saved of me going warp speed trying to troubleshoot fuel
cut. Doubt those will help you, but the idea should.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 23:38:27 -0500
From: "Bedrock" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
oil cooler
Does anyone know the size tap I need for one of the cooler hose banjo bolt
holes on the oil filter boss , I think its 16mm? A friend cross-threaded
his.
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 137,000+
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:14:35 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Head Leaking Coolant!!
The metal seal you are talking about, it is a freeze plug? If so, you
need to replace it.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:16:05 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil changes
Stealth TT has the jacking plate as well. Not sure about the other
models.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 14:40:32 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: oil cooler
Measure it! The bolt that is.
Metric thread format by example:
M10x1.50x80
M =
ISO/metric thread (in contrast to a UN/UNF or Whitworth
thread)
10 = 10 mm thread size, the outside thread
diameter
1.50 = 1.5 mm thread pitch, the distance between two adjacent thread
peaks
80 = length of the fastener not including the head
A metric ruler is required. And a small magnifying lens can be helpful for
some fasteners. There are also gauges/templates you can buy to determine
thread size. Note that the size of the wrench used on the screw/bolt head is
not the thread size. There are also standard pitches for different thread
diameters. For example, you will not find a M10 bolt with a 1.0-mm thread
pitch - only 0.75 mm (fine) and 1.5 mm (coarse). On the other hand, a 1.5-mm
pitch is common on many thread sizes.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:43:57 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil cooler
Fool proof method, you ask? Take the bolt to a hardware store and see
what nut fits it.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:41:06 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: oil cooler
Not exactly fool proof but will be close. There are some bolts that
have a thread pitch close enough to one that it is snug on a nut but also
allows the correct-sized nut to fit. A thread gauge usually is the
best method (it is a little piece of metal with jagged teeth on it that
you lay into the thread pitch until no light is shown between the mating
jagged teeth template and the bolt). Plus, unless the nut has the
size stamped on it someone may have accidentally thrown an "M10 x 2.0" in
with the "3/8 x 1/16" box (made up numbers to be close to each other). I guess
the CAPS program might also show the size of certain hardware items
too. More than one way to skin a cat.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
Sent:
Thursday, November 14, 2002 09:44
Fool proof method, you ask? Take the bolt to a hardware store and see
what nut fits it.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:55:29 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil cooler
Well, what you do after you select what you BELIEVE to be the correct size
(after comparing it to the nut), is to match up that size tap with the
bolt. Place them side by side and interlock the threads. If
they interlock perfectly, you got the right pitch.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:50:06 -0500
From: "Bedrock" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: oil cooler banjo bolt
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 137,000+
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:51:26 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition advance question
Tyson -
Those logs would help, actually. I could get an idea of the shape of
the stock timing map, even if I don't know specific values.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:51:38 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ignition advance question
ok. Pocket logger is not where I can readily get to it. Give me a few days
and I will try to figure out how to extract the log and put it into an XLS
worksheet.
One thing that sucks with pocketlogger is that the air flow pegs out on
it's graph pretty easily. But TPS, RPM, O2 and timing advance are all
logged correctly.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 9:51
AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ignition advance question
Tyson -
Those logs would help, actually. I could get an idea of the shape of
the stock timing map, even if I don't know specific values.
- - Brian
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#998
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