Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, November 12 2002 Volume
01 : Number 996
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:17:51 -0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.J.Jacobs@alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt cover gaskets
Here are prices I got from Rockville on Mon, 5 Feb 2001 10:42:18 for the
timing belt cover gaskets. I was also told 2-3 weeks shipping on
special order stuff. I don't have CAPS in front of me now to know
which gasket goes where. I got the part numbers from CAPS and emailed
them directly for prices. This was for a '94 VR-4 (I doubt it
matters).
MD186411 $2.23
MD140090 $3.23
MD186420 $3.17
MD186419
$1.66
MD186421 $1.37
MD186422 $1.14
MD186423 $1.37
MD191621
$7.00
All of these are special order if you would like to order just visit our
website
www.mitsupartsdirect.com and click on
secure order form.
- --
Marc J. Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware
Development
Alcatel, USA (919) 850-6386
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:04:44 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Timing belt cover gaskets
he beat me to it :)
If you guys need PNCs, let me know.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 17:08:50 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch reservoir cap removal?
Hey guys,
How the heck do I get the clutch reservoir
cap removed? There is no room to grab the clips on the side, or is
it screw on?
thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 22:20:04 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Replacement heads
I know someone was looking for heads the other day, but I can't remember
who it
was. Anyway I ran across these on eBay item #1872353883 and
1872353915.
Hope this helps.
> Hey guys,
> How the
heck do I get the clutch reservoir cap removed? There is
> no room
to grab the clips on the side, or is it screw on?
>
>
thanks
> Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 17:22:28 -0500
From: Aamer Abbas <
aamer@aamerabbas.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch reservoir cap removal?
You mean for the clutch hydraulic fluid? Just pull on it really hard
:)
At least on my year there are no threads, no screws, no nothin'. Just pops
right off.
- --
Aamer Abbas
1994 3000GT (DOHC/Naturally Aspirated)
Raleigh,
North Carolina, USA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:54:32 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Replacement heads
I was. Thanks a bunch. I emailed the seller with some Q's. Thanks for
keeping an eye out.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:00:21 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: another chapter in my ECU story
Hi,
My car wasn't starting and the dealer said I had a bad ECU. I had the
tv
repairman switch out all the capacitors for $40 (I know it's higher than
it
should be, but it's hard to shop around without a car). My car
started right
up, but still wasn't 100%. The next day it wouldn't
start. I removed some
extra soldering from the circuit board and then
the car ('91 R/T) started
again - but it still wasn't all better. I
took it to a mechanic and he
couldn't find anything - he said the timing was
fine (unlike the dealer) - he
guessed the ECU still wasn't right - but no
codes were coming from the car
(could this be a sign of a bad ECU?). I
called foreign ecu repairs today and
the man said from my description
(trouble starting and lots of ticking/clicking
from behind the stereo) that
it was probably the fuel relay - due to a bad
ECU. So, I'm having him
send me a rebuilt ECU for $365 (minus $50 for trading
my ECU in). Does
this sound right? Is there a better way? Thanks again for
the
help.
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 02:15:50 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: another chapter in my ECU story
Michael,
This is not an easy story with our ECU's as it's often a guessing. Even a
low battery may cause such symptoms as well as bad relays or the contacts
to them. Also the ignition power transistors or the drivers could be a
problem as well as the resistor pack for the injectors. Some of the may
cause an error code some do not.
I'd ask for a return warranty if the new ECU doesn't solve your
problem.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:45:10 -0600
From: "Mark and Brenda" <
mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Replaced engine
Hi gang! Well I did it, and under a tree too! I really feel old now..But I
put a JDM engine from ASAP motors in her and Gosh it is sweet! No more
SMOKE!!!! My baby is sweet now. Oh well just some post lately were about
ruined engines, just thought I'd let ya know how my replacement turned
out. It took me three and a half days to do it, and at 42 years old I
really don't think I will turn it into a profession..lol.. Man I'm in
pain, but my baby runs sweet!!!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:23:37 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Fuel Pump Rewiring Schematic
Great post Erik! This is what I've been waiting for. I wish you
would have posted Friday though before I bought 20' of 10 Ga wire
;).
> Thus I created a new circuit that still allows the fuel pump voltage
> to be reduced(~9.5V) by the ECU under low load AND maintains
>
12.5-13.0V at the fuel pump under higher loads. With this setup,
>
my VR-4 no longer runs even slightly lean under high-fuel-demand
>
conditions. My circuit also uses less components than the
> previous
rewiring circuit, so it's cheaper, too :-)
>
> Details
Here:
>
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/FPReWire/page1.html>
>
--Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 17:47:44 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU update (car started the first time but not since)
There is a huge difference between rebuilding a working and a non working
ECU The faults are caused by the leakage from the capacitors so as I
stated before, replacing the capacitors only, will never fix it.
Steve
> I watched my electronics buddy do mine. Had a heck of
> a
time, including having to re-drill 2 of the holes.
>
> 20
minutes.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 22:57:39 -0700
From: "Sapphire Platypus" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't
help...)
Wait a sec, doesn't Tyson own an internet speedshop already? Unless there's
another Tigran Varosyan (I probably spelled that wrong, sorry) that I
bought my Y-Pipe replacement from. *Nudges Tyson to advertise his website*
Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 22:26:39 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't help...)
lol I think he does. I just noticed that the other day. Tyson man... let
your presence be known. Those Y-pipes look amazing. Too bad I already
spent $2000 on my 60k tune-up... + many upgrades or I'd be buying one
too.
Riyan
93 rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:24:30 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Ty-Speed Performance
I have been staying quiet until I was "ready". Products that have pictures
are up for sale now, but other stuff is in prototype/concept mode. Few
people somehow found the site before it's release and have ordered a thing
or two. This has been kind of a side thing, but may turn into something
bigger soon... The people who get stuff from me are all happy. There are
documented performance results, I don't pull numbers out of my butt. I
have had one problem with a downpipe that may be engine mount related. The
buyer is waiting for new motor mounts and then will bring it back if it
still has problems. I stand by my stuff.
I don't know. For now, browse the site. If you got cash in hand talk to me.
Anything that has pictures is available for sale now. If you really want
something that does not yet have a picture and are willing to wait a bit,
talk to me too. If you have custom stuff that is up my avenue of work,
again, talk to me :) I need $$ for my motor rebuild so this may be an avenue for
extra cash.
This is not the official "Opening" email. When I'm "ready" I will post
something big here and on 3si.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 02:49:53 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ty-Speed Performance
Tyson,
What's up with the downpipe and motor mounts issue? Erik
Gross was in town two weekends ago and can attest that the 3SX Performance
motor mounts cause no movement of the engine on startup or shutdown so
there should not be any problem with any rubbing of components. I can also
offer some advice if you want since I had three of the four motor mounts
shot and the engine really moved around.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tigran Varosyan
Sent: Tuesday,
November 12, 2002 02:25
I have been staying quiet until I was "ready". Products that have pictures
are up for sale now, but other stuff is in prototype/concept mode. Few
people somehow found the site before it's release and have ordered a thing
or two. This has been kind of a side thing, but may turn into something
bigger soon... The people who get stuff from me are all happy. There are
documented performance results, I don't pull numbers out of my butt. I
have had one problem with a downpipe that may be engine mount related. The
buyer is waiting for new motor mounts and then will bring it back if it
still has problems. I stand by my stuff.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 01:12:30 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ty-Speed Performance
Well, the concept is simple. As the stock motor mounts wear out, the engine
moves. It sags down etc. Depending on which mounts are shot it will go
this way or that. This offsets the whole exhaust system. On the stock pipe
with it's 12" flex section it is not as much of a problem.
I have made some adjustments to my jig to give more clearances so this no
longer should be an issue with my pipes. Eric is super happy with his
pipe. He even has a website for it. His friend Brian also got a pipe from
me, which is the one that has one clearance problem which may or may not
be due to the mounts. We theorize that there is a chance it may be. Ether way it
is an easy fix and I will obviously do it under warranty. Their pipes were
"prototypes" and its expected to find a few glitches with the first few. I
think I got the jig fixed for good now so no more problems :)
As for some other stuff. On Eric's car which previously had a Stillen pipe
on it, Eric has noticed quite a few performance and comfort benefits with
my pipe. Eric has noticed faster spool time and a more even idle and
acceleration with my pipe vs the Stillen. Obviously Stillen is 100 times
better than stock, but I believe I got a superior product at a very low
price.
Ether way. Enough of tooting my own horn :) If you have any more Q's
contact me off list.
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
I have a 1997 VR4 with 60,000 miles on the clock. For the past
20,000 miles I noticed a high-pitched whining sound from the gearbox while
driving in the 4th and 5th and 6th gears. The noise disappears when speed
is reduced. (Remove foot from gas pedal). So, the noise comes in while
maintaining normal highway cruising speeds. The pitch or noise level
remains the same between and for all gears. (4/5/6th).
a. What
causes the high pitched whining sound?
b. What needs to be done to
eliminate this unpleasant sound?
Sluggish Shift.
I have a hard time on up and down shifting gears, i.e.,
shifting from one gear to another is difficult in that the gears do not
engage with ease. I have found the ease of gear shifting to be
considerably below standard of normal streetcars. Fast accelerating ( once
in a while), while shifting gears remains a shameful experience, as it is
usually accompanied by missing or slipping
gears.
a. What is the source of this problem?
b. How can it be
fixed.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 09:14:20 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <
nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re:
Have you replaced the fluid in the transmission and transfer case since the
whining began?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:14:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael Baldwin <
mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: UGH!! HELP!!
In regards to keeping your license plate in your front window - doesn't
work, at least not in California. I parked my car in the long term parking
at SFO and was ticketed for not having a front plate, even though it was
in the window.
The next time I put the plate back on and put my car under a car cover.
When I got back the careless cops had tore open my car cover (presumably
to check the plate) and ripped the plate off again. They were kind enough
to put the plate under my windshield wiper. Bastards.
mb
97 vr4
------------------------------
Well, I've enjoyed my car ('94 VR-4) the time I've had it but it might be
time to move on. Insurance on this bad boy is killing me. Let's see: 22yrd
old male+expenive fast sports car=a** raping on insurance. I simply don't
drive this car enough to justify the insurance ( I only drive it on the
weekends no more than 30-50 miles)Anyone know what the insurance rate on Grand
Prix GTP is compared to our cars? Anybody have one they want to trade?
Pretty much any type of car (except minivans, lol) are fair game for
trading. I'm looking for something around a $6-8k value + some cash but
can always work out something else on the side if I like what you offer. Email
me personally if interested and I'll send you info on my car.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 17:39:35 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 60k service & prev maint parts list
My Stealth is closing in on 100k miles and will soon go in for its second
60k service (which I have done every 50k). I'd like to show up at
the Mitsu dealer here in the UK with all of the parts they need to
complete the service. I'd also like to do a little preventative
maintenance, replacing anything that might be questionable. I'd
appreciate suggestions on parts to order and things to have
checked/replaced by the dealer.
Background on my car:
- - bought in early 1997 with 32k miles
- -
first 60k service performed by Extreme Motorsports in late 1997 at 47k
miles
- - boost controller, turbo timer, new Platinum plugs and Magnecore
wires installed at 47k miles
- - recent coolant flush following track day
boilover
- - engine ticks (lifters) and squeaks (pulley bearings, I
guess)
Here's what I've come up with so far:
BELTS & HOSES
Timing Belt MD193874
Power Steering Belt
MD172376
Accessory Belt (A/C & alternator) MD187463
should I have all
of the hoses replaced?
should I have all of the vacuum/boost lines
replaced?
PULLEYS
Timing Belt Tensioner MD319040
Timing Belt Pulley (idler?)
MD140071
what else could be squeaking? a recent post referenced three
accessory idler pulleys... part numbers?
ROUTINE/PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Water Pump MD972005
Thermostat
MD174234
Fuel Filter MB658136
GASKETS
Throttle Body Gasket MD180361
Intake Plenum Gasket
MD143791
Water Pump gasket (does this come with the water pump?)
Timing
Belt Cover Gaskets:
MD186411 $2.23
MD140090 $3.23
MD186420
$3.17
MD186419 $1.66
MD186421 $1.37
MD186422 $1.14
MD186423
$1.37
MD191621 $7.00
SPARK
Spark Plug Wires MD193980 (50k on Magnecores - do I need new
ones?) Spark Plugs (Bosch Platinum 4201?) Spark plug gaskets MD186787 (do
I need them?)
INTERNALS
new style lifters (will they really eliminate the
ticking? part
number?)
OTHER
motor mounts?
suspension bushings?
They list 4 front cam seals as part of the 60k service. Is this
normal/required?
Which things should benefit from reduced labor when done in conjunction
with the timing belt?
Anything else I should have them do while they're in there?
Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:03:19 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ty-Speed Performance Downpipe
> Erik is super happy with his pipe.
> He even has a website for
it.
Everyone should be happy with his ...um... pipe.
;-)
Yeah, I thought I posted about this, but maybe I didn't. I got one of
the first of Tyson's downpipes and it's on my car now. It's better
than stock, and IMO, better than the Stillen. It seems to me - from
experience with my car, not flow testing or anything serious like that -
that the 2.5" pipe from each bank before the flows are merged (Stillen
pipe) is too large for a car at stock/BPU power and airflow levels.
I'm sure that diameter would be useful with larger (but how much larger?)
turbos and higher boost, but I the
2.25" pipe seems to work better on my
car. Anyway, you can see and read
about it here:
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:01:47 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: ECU replacement - AEM EMS?
> Has anyone with a stock
engine (or one with basic upgrades like mine)
> replaced their stock ECU
with the AEM EMS? How hard is it to install
> and get
running?
Not too hard - you can have it driving pretty well within a day. To
get it totally setup is much harder.
> Does it run as well as stock without demanding
> constant
attention and adjustment?
Depends on how well you set it up. :) I certainly wouldn't
recommend running it without "checking up" on it at least once a week, but
once it's dialed in it can be every bit as see through as the stock
ECU.
> Is it compatible with the stock
> knock sensor and does it
support logging of knock sum on the hybrid
> cars?
It is compatible with the knock sensor. The "knock sum" is a function
of the old ECU; the AEM uses a slightly different strategy. It will
allow you to log raw knock sensor output, filtered knock, and the amount
of fuel/timing correction the AEM is applying to combat knock.
>Does the MAS or any other sensor/component require replacement?
MAS works great. The only extra sensors you'll probably want are a
Wideband O2 and a MAP sensor. Trying to tune without a Wideband O2
is a waste of time.
> What are the drawbacks?
Time and money. Purchasing the AEM requires making a commitment to a
quest for knowledge and understanding about the minute details of your car
and the EMS. It's also not cheap. I've spent countless hours
reading and tweaking with this thing. For me, it's fun. If you're
not into that kind of thing then it's definitely not for you...unless
there's an AEM tuner nearby.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:16:42 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECU replacement - AEM EMS?
%%%
[ ... ]
I certainly wouldn't recommend running it without "checking up" on it at
least once a week
[ ... ]
Purchasing the AEM requires making a commitment to a quest for knowledge
and understanding about the minute details of your car and the EMS.
It's also not cheap. I've spent countless hours reading and tweaking
with this thing. For me, it's fun. If you're not into that kind of
thing then it's definitely not for you...unless there's an AEM tuner
nearby. %%%
That's what I was afraid of. Lack of time and the need for
consistency/reliability keeps me from being able to fiddle (and my wife
CERTAINLY wouldn't be willing to put up with it when she drives the
car!). I sure wish there was an easy answer, something as robust as the
stock ECU but more supportive of upgrades. That's what keeps 99% of
us from going beyond the basic FIPK/EBC mods! Oh, well...
thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:51:44 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECU replacement - AEM EMS?
For most upgrades, a boost controller (I like the manual ones personally!)
and an S-AFC is sufficient. The S-AFC really is a "set it and forget
it" kind of a mod; it's not super complicated and once you dial it you
don't have to mess with it any more. I had great success with it
before I bought the AEM.
In fact, the S-AFC really is capable of making big power. There are a
couple of people on the 3si board running high 11s with the S-AFC as their
only computer mod. Couple an S-AFC with bigger injectors (DSM 450s
are inexpensive) and an upgraded fuel pump, and you have a platform that
will support bigger power (13G or 15Gs) while still retaining ease of use
and drivability.
- - Brian
> That's what keeps
> 99% of us from going beyond the basic
FIPK/EBC mods! Oh, well...
> thanks.
>
> Jim Matthews
- Yorkshire, England
------------------------------
What's a reasonable price for the rear axle bearings?
MB569972 (2 ea)
MB290175 (2 ea)
This morning's rumor was that one bearing was $189. Two weeks ago,
the complete set was $100.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 11:23:09 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: UGH!! HELP!!
Placing your plate under the window is also a good way to split your head
open in an accident.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 19:23:27 -0000
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECU replacement - AEM EMS?
%%%
Hey Jim, have you considered just going to 15G's, a set of 650 ball
style injectors (Bosch makes them I believe), an APEX-I SAFC, along with
the AAM stage 1 fuel system, and a walboro 255 or MKIV supra fuel pump?
%%%
Sounds good, especially if it's as "fire-and-forget" as Brian says it
is. I'd be interested to see dyno charts from those with such a
setup...
Biggest concern is that it would be tedious to tune with no way to monitor
knock. For the price of the SAFC and AVC-R (my first gen doesn't
work at altitude and will eventually need to be replaced), I was thinking
that a little more would buy the EMS and solve everything.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 14:32:12 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Axle Bearings '93VR4
Partznet (Concelli Mitsu) has them listed on the site for $11.70 each for
the MB569972s and $11.03 each for the MB290175s.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 14:40:30 -0500
From: Aamer Abbas <
aamer@aamerabbas.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Paint Color Code
Hi, could someone tell me where the exterior paint's color code can be
found on our cars? My car is black but I need to get the exact color
code.
Thanks.
- --
Aamer Abbas
1994 3000GT (DOHC/Naturally Aspirated)
Raleigh,
North Carolina, USA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 12:03:30 -0800
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Paint Color Code
It should be on the firewall inside the engine compartment. I don't know
about black, but my 93 Stealth is firestorm red and the paint code is R71.
I dealt with paintworld.com and they are really good to work with.
Very cooperative.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 12:27:04 -0800
From: "Dean Benz" <
dbenz@vchillclimb.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: ECU replacement - AEM EMS?
I am in much the same boat as Jim, only I haven't done anything requiring
electronics yet, just intake, exhaust, suspension, brakes on my mostly
track dedicated '94 TT.
If the AEM will allow me to forgo a couple $300-500 discrete pieces of
electronics like EBC, AFC, etc. for just over $1300 (Best price I've found
so far), and most important on these OBD I/II hybrids beasts, provide a
data feed, it sounds like the right way to go. Right?
I still will need a real boost gauge, but had planned on getting one of
those anyway.
I read some discussion about the Auto-Learn mode may not work reliably with
MAS, and require a MAP upgrade. Any definitive data on that?
What sensors are people using as a recommended starting point for the AEM
above or as replacements for stock?
Other than boost, any other gauges I need to start with or will the data
feed from the stock /add on sensors be enough?
- -Dean
Yellow '94 TT streetable autocross/track car. FIPK, DN Pre-Cat elim, ATR
DownPipe, and Single Shot Exhaust W & WO high Flow CAT. Tein
Coilovers, F/R Sway bars, Wilwood 6 Pot Front Brake kit, Stainless brake
Lines, Stock Chromes for street, 17" Enkie RP-01s for Race, Redline fluids
everywhere...
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#996
***************************************