Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, November 8
2002 Volume 01 : Number 992
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 07:54:08 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Prayer didn't help this time...
Tyson, are you sure you have the firing order correct? which is maybe
what Philip was referring to.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tigran Varosyan
[mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 4:48
AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Prayer didn't help this time...
Tried that. The engine runs like crap so its hard to tell, but I think all
are firing...
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSent:
Wednesday, November 06, 2002 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Prayer didn't help
this time...
I hope it is the incorrectly installed plug wires and not a nut or bolt in
the cylinder. Try pulling the plug wires off the coils and see which of
the cylinders is not working.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 08:08:53 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't
help...)
First, BTDC means Below (Before) Top Dead Center. Engine ignition
timing is correct when the Piston in Cylinder 1 is BTDC.
The mark on the harmonic balancer (which is the pulley that attaches to the
crank) is for checking ignition timing as the engine is running by using a
timing light. You use it to time ignition (spark) with mechanical
timing. As the plug in the No. 1 cylinder fires, the timing light
will flash. When it flashes, that little notch you're talking about
should be lined up with the correct number on the scale you're talking
about. The scale you're talking about measures degrees off of top
dead center, not top dead center. So IMHO, when all the cams are lined up
and your No. 1 cylinder is at TDC, the timing mark on the harmonic
balancer will be off the scale.
If I'm wrong about this, I'm sure someone will let me know.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tigran Varosyan
[mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 4:50
AM
Subject: Team3S: Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer
didn't help...)
Found out today from Eric that it is possible to check the crank timing
without having to remove the crank pulley. I was told that the crank
pulley is supposed to have a white dot on it (for a timing light) to
signify it's timing mark. It should also have a notch somewhere. I looked
everywhere and I have no dot.
I did find a notch though which looks to be what I am looking for. The
notch is on the inside rim of the pulley and the only way I can see it is
to look straight down through the engine bay. The only thing I have been
able to find to line-up the notch against has is a little tiny scale on
the lower timing belt cover. I see it read BTDC, 5, 10, 20. I assume BTDC
means TDC (Top Dead Center). The scale itself is obstructed by the power
steering belt making it almost impossible to read. I also tried to look at
it through the wheel well with the driver front tire removed and it is not
visible at all from that angle. I read online that the timing on the crank
should be at TDC when the cams are all lined up.
I lined up the cams, everything there lines up great, look down and my
timing notch is nowhere even near the little scale that is obstructed by
the power steering belt. So we are talking Major slippage! Then I look
around for where the timing notch on the crank pulley is and incidentally
enough it is at the very top dead center of the pulley itself. So now I'm
confused...
Is that a co-incidence? Is that notch supposed to be on the scale BTDC or
at the 12-o'clock on the pulley itself? Is my timing ok or not? I looked
all over the manual and they have two whole pages with pictures on how to
do timing on the cams but there is NOTHING about the crank! Furthermore I
could find no reference at all to where the timing marks on the crank pulley are
or what they line up to. Again there is like 4 pages on the cams, but
nothing on the crank....
Could someone help me here? I cant find my damn pulley removal tool for the
life of me and this is driving me nuts!
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 09:17:08 -0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Active Exhaust construction
I think the only way to fix that is to have a similar opening to the gas
tank, but on the drivers side. It should be smaller, and when you
spray WD-40 in it, it should drip onto the exhaust actuator valve :)
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 7:52
AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Active Exhaust construction
>
>
I've had my spring assembly apart before. You'll have no trouble
>
getting it back together. When my active exhaust didn't work, I
>
thought a "cure" would be to increase spring tension. So that's
what
> I did. I took the spring assembly apart, cut 1/2 of a loop
off
> the spring, and then re-assembled it with increased tension.
It
> worked a little longer than normal, but eventually stuck
again.
> So, all in all, it wasn't worth the work.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 09:35:52 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: uh oh. do I need to buy a new engine now?
You might have a relatively large chunk of carbon holding a valve open,
that would be my guess. Otherwise 60psi would mean major failure of head
gasket or something worse if not an open valve. Something worse would
probably make nasty sounds like broken rings or cracked pistons. the fact
that one piston is SOO high probably means your engine has tons of carbon in the
compression space. So don't panic, you might try to find a bore viewer,
puts a little lens & light inside the sparkplug hole and lets you take
a look around for carbon or damage. I have had similar things happen
cleaning a motor and the compression came back up to normal after all the chunks
worked their way out the exhaust port. one other problem that can come
from large pieces of carbon is they can hit the honey comb of the cat flat
and clog it. Seen that too. I would just keep on cleaning it. Spin it
faster maybe.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
[mailto:riyan@hotpop.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 5:09
PM
Subject: Team3S: uh oh. do I need to buy a new engine now?
tester. One cylinder came out to like 210 psi. Then next came out to 90 psi
first try, and then 60psi second try.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 10:02:52 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: JIC FLT-A2 suspension...Grrrreat!
After 84000 miles of duty, 1/2 of that with H&R springs, my stock
shocks and struts were totally blown. I debated for quite a while
over whether to go with stock replacements or a coilover setup, and
meanwhile my suspension got worse and worse. :( Finally, when I just
couldn't take it any more, one of the major 3/S shops swooped in with a
great special on the JIC suspension setup, and I took the plunge.
I installed the JIC setup the night before last. It was, in a word,
cake. The coilovers came fully assembled - all I had to do was drop out
the old assemblies and bolt in the new coilovers. I got it adjusted
to about the same ride height at all four corners and took it out for a
spin. WOW!!! I now own a 2 ton go kart. :) Body
roll is almost eliminated. The car feels amazingly solid - very
confidence inspiring. I was doing things that would have had me
understeering into a wall or spinning out of control on my old setup, and
it only felt like 60%-70% on the JICs. Compared to my car with
H&R springs when shocks were good, and a friend's car with upgraded
sway
bars, this JIC setup is leaps and bounds beyond.
All this was on the softest setting and without an alignment. On just
the right sections of road I get a bit of bounce, so I'm going to play
with stiffening it up (it's 18 point adjustable!). The ride quality
is definitely stiffer, but it doesn't rattle your fillings. More
importantly, it's feels like stiffness born of solid contact with the
road, as opposed to stiffness just for the sake of being stiff as on some
Honda suspensions I've experienced. :)
All in all, I'm extremely impressed. It doesn't matter much once
they're on the car, but the JIC coilovers LOOK extremely nice, solid, and
well-made. All the hype you may or may not have heard is true - this JIC
setup is for real.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 13:17:24 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Active
exhaust and Radio question from newbie
As you can see, with the valve closed... gasses are forced through the
"McDonalds straw" into a set of baffles and then forced through small
holes in the pipe connecting the first baffle to the second... and then
out to both the passenger side pipe as well as the driver's side pipes
through even more holes. I don’t have to tell you how restrictive this
is... you can see from the picture. In sport mode, gases flow pretty much
straight through the muffler hindered by a slight bend. In reality our
mufflers are pretty free flow in sport mode for the pipe diameter they are
(2.5"?). I have the whole active exhaust setup on my non-turbo and I can
tell you... In tour mode, it's nice and throaty, not too loud. Switch it
to sport and the difference is night and day. Very loud, sometimes even
too loud when I'm trying to have a nice quiet cruise around town. Winter time,
it's easier to see when you first start the car, in sport mode, most gases
come out the drivers side, in tour, most out the passenger, a little out
the driver.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 11:35:40 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
When was active exhaust discontinued?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 11:31:05 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Gone as of '95 the model year. Although the wiring harnesses are
still there :-)
- --Erik
> When was active exhaust discontinued?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 11:34:56 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Prayer didn't help this time...
> Tried that. The engine runs like crap so its hard to tell,
> but
I think all are firing...
Hey Tyson,
I was thinking last night of something else to check
since you had your wires off during the turbo swap - did you connect the
COIL-END of the wires to the correct coil? If you have stock wires,
they have numbers on them that make it easy to get them on the right spark plug,
but the marks on the coils are hard to see. The order, from the
front of the car is: 6, 3, 5, 2, 4, 1. They're also labeled in
picture 14 on this page:
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 11:59:51 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Prayer didn't help this time...
You mean having right park wire in the right hole on the coils? Yea
positive. Went over it with 3 people and even pulled the plenum to check
the back.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 14:07:15 -0600
From: "Brandon Wieschhaus" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Wiring
stuff... Was: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Are you talking about the wiring harness behind the paneling that's behind
the rear passenger seat on the driver's side? I was trying (not too
successfully either) to fix my keyless entry, and I had to take off the
paneling, only to find a random wiring harness that wasn't connected to
anything... I kinda thought that maybe something had been disconnected by a
previous owner. Also, if anyone could tell me what wires are "supposed" to
be behind the rear seats, under the carpet, let me know, I think my airbag
has been unplugged... Thanks.
-b
'94 Stealth base
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 12:12:39 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Prayer didn't help this time...
You are like the 10th person to bring that up :) I got aftermarket wires
which are literally just barely long enough to get to their holes. I also
checked and traced the wires manually like 4 times already to make sure.
I'm 100% certain that they are in correctly.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:55:04 -0500
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: JIC FLT-A2 suspension...Grrrreat!
What makes the JIC so much better then the Tein? I saw the Tein HA
for $1475.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 14:37:48 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
NASA one-day HPDE at Sears Point this Sunday
If anyone want s to join us at the track, "ET" and I will be doing the HPDE
this Sunday, if weather permits. Since it's just a one day event, it
will probably be pretty light 'traffic' out there, so it's a perfect
"test'n'tune" day...
If anyone wants to join us, please send me a private email. It will
just be us and Jimmy Tsai from the Team3S folks, AFAIK... Sign up
ASAP if you want to join us. Info is on the NASA site,
www.nasaproracing.com - click the
Northern California region...
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 15:18:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: For
Sale - Ground Control Coilovers
I am likely going to purchase the JIC suspension setup
very soon. When I
do, my Ground Control Coilover setup
will be for sale, I will sell them with
the stock struts
already on them so it will be an easy bolt on.
My struts
are in good shape and do not leak.
Make some offers and the best offer will get em.
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 18:40:04 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Door Locks
Yeah, dry lube is best. WD40 may be an alternative, and will help clean off
whatever is clogging up.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger J. Roskam
[mailto:IndyStealth@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 6:03
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Door Locks
Try using dry graphite lubricant. Works wonders on the
sticking
tumblers.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 19:01:43 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: uh oh. do I need to buy a new engine now?
The cleaner will remove all/most oil, so the ring seal will
be
indeterminate. Wait til you purge the cleaner and get some oil back
in
there to check compression.
IMO using the cleaner thru the throttle body is best, as it contacts
the
correct areas by airflow. If you need to go better than that, it
is
likely time to pull the heads and rework them and the valves.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 19:43:48 -0500
From: "Bedrock" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Door Locks
I live in Massachusetts and after dark I went out to get in my car
and
wouldn't you know it the key wouldn't work. Tried the passenger door and
it
was real tight but it opened. Pulled the car in the garage and tried
it
again about ten min. ago its ok. Guess I better lube it up before I
get
locked out somewhere. Thanks for the thread.
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 137,000+
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 23:08:24 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Timing
marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't help...)
Hate to be the one to let you know, but yes you're wrong :( The scale
on
the lower timing belt cover starts at 0 BTDC. So, he notch on the
crank
pulley should line up with the TDC mark on the timing cover when all
the
cams are lined up with their marks. If the cams are lined up and
the
notch on the crank pulley is not lined up, either A) your timing is
not
set correctly, or B) the Crank pulley was not installed properly, or
C)
you did not line the cams up properly before checking. Take your pick
:)
There is a set hole in the crank pulley that matches a set pin on
the
crank timing belt sprocket so it cant be installed without lining
them
up, but if it's installed without setting it in place properly and
the
bolt just tightened down, the pin can get crushed, or pushed into
the
sprocket. Maybe it had fallen out during a previous servicing,
who
knows. Could be anything.. but to make sure, you'd have to remove
the
lower timing belt cover and check the timing with the notches on
the
crank timing belt sprocket.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 21:51:47 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't
help...)
Omar I think you are right... I'm in denial here but its time to face
the
music...
I know that I got the cams lined up correctly. I know those things
real
well. I also pulled the wheel off to check and make sure that I had the
pin
lined up to the pulley and it is, I can see the pin in there.... My
timing
on the crank is WAY off.... The timing mark is at about 12 o'clock on
the
pulley when using the timing light.... I'm guesstimating about
55-65
degrees.... Best I can hope for now is to find what the hell made it
skip
(washer or some nut) so that at least I have the frigging 2 cent piece
of
garbage that's going to cost me $4-6k....
Man SO depressed right now! It will be at least 6 months before I can
get
her up and running again.... Gonna call insurance company tomorrow
and
change my insurance to storage-only.
Tyson.
------------------------------
So many solutions to this problem...remove the circuit breaker, replace the
relay, replace the vacuum hose...and now disconnect the battery. Dennis is
right: it's a mystery.
Rich
At 10:56 PM 11/7/02 -0500, Dennis Ninneman wrote:
>Had the exact same
problem with my '93 VR4. Had to disconnect the
>battery. Most
of the time re-connecting right-away would turn off the
>motor. Couple of times I had to wait a long time before it
would stop
>upon re-connect. Dealer tried everything ......... no
joy. My son had
>it happen once on his 94 VR4. We sold
both. Waiting to have it start
>on my '97. Would like to find
someone that has solved this mystery.
> Have a sneaking feeling it is
common to all our ABS.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 22:18:03 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers:
Re: Team3S: Got them ABS blues again
There is a relay on the ABS pump unit [ under the wheel well splash shields
]
that need to be replaced. As I recall the part was $50 or $60, I found it
in
CAPS once.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 22:56:04 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Got them ABS blues again
Had the exact same problem with my '93 VR4. Had to disconnect the
battery. Most of the time re-connecting right-away would turn off the
motor. Couple of times I had to wait a long time before it would
stop
upon re-connect. Dealer tried everything ......... no
joy. My son had
it happen once on his 94 VR4. We sold
both. Waiting to have it start
on my '97. Would like to find
someone that has solved this mystery.
Have a sneaking feeling it is
common to all our ABS.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 00:54:59 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't help...)
I've been doing my 60k tune-up and eating, drinking, and breathing 3S
timing
components long enough to confirm that exactly what Omar is saying
is
correct. The "BTDC" is before top dead center. and the last "0" mark is
the
TDC mark. You can hope that the crank pulley was not installed
correctly.
But I highly doubt it. Hey look at the bright side. You can
toughen up the
engine. Bore it out. 3.1L displacement. Forged pistons. Even
rods if you
wanna go all out. Valve job. There's a good side to everything. I
have three
cars. They all have between 120,000 and 190,000 miles. The van is
the parts
car that I haul all the stuff around in. Infiniti is the gf's car.
Stealth
is my project car. Sure, I can sell 'em and use the money for a down
payment
on something nice. But what's the fun in that? I'll be down to one
car
that'll be ...sure, reliable...and BORING! Whenever something breaks in
any
of my cars, I replace it with a performance part. All I can say is that
I'll
have a fleet of fast, fun, and reliable cars. Stock internals in 3S
just
like any car has its limits. Raise the ceiling and have some fun. No,
I'm
not being corny or being that "little pal" that'll put a smile on your
face
no matter what. I'm dead serious. This is your opportunity to build a
REAL
car.
Enjoy the rebuild,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 01:13:54 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New possibility re: spring/strut/coilover discussion (update)
> From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
> 1). H&K
springs with Billstein(sp?) struts - a medium-grade coilover...
>
-------------snip----------->
> 2). Tokico "Alumina-R"
Setup. Made by the same folks who make...
>
-------------snip----------->
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
Thanks Bob, well finally we have more options. Now the question is
what
will be the most cost effective for us? I hope it is one of these
newer
options you just mentioned.
> I still have not fully gotten the
original GB off the ground and will have
to see if maybe we can add these in
as options....
> -------------snip----------->
Unfortunately, the H&K and Alumina-R setups will be coming in "at some
point",
but my guy says that there is no ETA for them. Further, he
checked with Japan
and he can't find an application which will fit our cars
*exactly*. He just
*thinks* he might be able to adapt them (and that
just isn't good enough for
me). I'll see him this weekend, and he's
going to check out a couple of
things, but I don't suggest you wait for
him. Sorry if I got everyone's hopes
up (mine too). But this deal
is a no-go. It looks like you guys are back to
your group buy idea for
Tein or JIC...
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 01:45:14 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't
help...)
Thanks for the cheer-up :) One little problem with the plan is $$$.
First
things first, I'm gonna get the timing right and do a compression
check. If
the car is still drivable (over 115PSI) I will baby it a while till
I can
save up some cash. Valve jobs are dang expensive. Doing a bore is not
too
bad, but getting the block out to do it is a royal PITA. Gaskets alone
will
run $200! Pistons, another $650 (Waisco Forged with clearance for valves
in
case this BS happens again). Rings $? Bearings $? Gotta get the
heads
reground $? (I think around $100) and the valves seated by a shop $?
I
looked online for rods, could not believe what forged rods cost!
$1600?!
Over my dead body! Gonna use my old ones, but God forbid if I have to
do
this again, I drive/push the car off a cliff!
Anyhow, if anyone wants to help me with some of the ?'s I would
appreciate
it. Sources for parts would be good too.
A guy in my local club about 9 months ago sold a pair of SUPER NICE
heads.
Ported, polished etc etc for $900, I guess he was short on cash at the
time.
Man I wish I could find a deal like that again!
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 07:39:05 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't
help...)
Well, there you have it; I've been humbled! I couldn't remember
if
that little "scale" started at 0 or not. Anyway, I suppose that
lining
the timing mark up at 0 BTDC on the balancer will not be a
true
indication of engine timing unless Piston 1 is at the top of
its
compression stroke, because the crank turns twice for every
one
revolution of the cams. Therefore, if the crank is on it's
"second"
revolution, the timing marks on the cams will appear only 1/2 of the
way
through their cycle.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 08:04:18 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New possibility re: spring/strut/coilover discussion (update)
Has anyone tried that company that offers full air-bag type
suspension? You can
raise and lower the car height from inside the
car. Change the settings for
ultra-smooth ride (better than Mercedes)
or stiff for playing in the twisty-turnies?
A couple of years ago when I talked to them, they wanted ME to pay extra to
do
THEIR developmental work on their system. That's the only reason I
didn't try
their system. It was between $1200 and $2k, depending upon
which options you
get. According to them, it decreased a Vette's
autocross time by almost 2 or 3
seconds (can't remember exactly.)
I liked the idea of raising the car to get over the
#@#$%#$! speed bumps, the
smooth ride, and the
lowering to get better handling.
HTH,
AI NUt
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#992
***************************************
