Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, November 7 2002 Volume
01 : Number 991
----------------------------------------------------------------------
One key thing....
The adjustable ones are the upper CAM angle sensor motors, *built until mid
'93*
CRANK angle sensor motors are non-adjustable...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken
Sent: Wednesday, November
06, 2002 1:29 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: timing
> adjustable.... how? I just bought a new crank angle sensor
since
> there's a crack in my old one. It didn't look adjustable to
me.
> If it is, then disregard my last post!! :)
I'm not sure about the 93s but on my 92 RT TT, it is adjustable.
Loosen one bolt and then the sensor can be turned just like a
distributor.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:20:13 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
I agree with Forrest here. Also, I've "partnered" up with another
member of the list to exchange data on Amsoil v. Mobil-1. I've used
Mobil-1 now for 5+ years in my car (actually, I switched to Mobil-1 after
using Castrol Syntec for a number of years). I plan to send my oil to a
lab for testing at next oil change, and we will then compare the results
with Amsoil. When I get the results back, I'll share them with the
list.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 6:44
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
<<<
Stick with Mobil-1 10W40
in the summer and 10W30 in the
winter (or you can't go wrong with RedLine) and change your oil every 3000
or so miles. Don't nickel-and-dime when it comes to taking care of your
car. Viper, Jaguar, Corvette, Porsche, Lexus, BMW are ALL
recommending Mobil-1 as their oil of choice. That's good enough for
me.
Best,
Forrest
>>>
------------------------------
Just so there is no confusion, *every* 6G72 DOHC model has both crank and
cam
angle sensors. In the 1991 and 1992 models both sensors are incorporated
into
the same component, which is located on the back of the rear (left)
head and
is "adjustable". The CAS/CAS moved to the front of the block
starting with
9206.1 production cars. That means all 3S 6G72 DOHC models
starting with the
beginning (not middle) of the 1993 model year, and later,
have non-adjustable
CAS/CAS. If you have a 1993 model engine, just go look
to see if there is a
CAS near the throttle body (CAPS could be in error on
the dates).
*Complete* head info can be found on my web page below. Please note PNC
01233
(Crank Angle Sensor Adapter, MD153237)
A picture of the 1991-1992 CAS can be seen on my web page below. That CAS
can
adjust timing advance using the bolt and bracket visible under the arrow
pointing from "CAS" to the component. One of the few "advantages" of the
1991- 1992 engine - adjustable basic ignition timing. :)
More info on timing events for our cars - ignition, injection, and
valves:
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:54:39 -0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Yes, you are correct, but I suspect still a bit confused
(as was I when
I first worked on the Exhaust).
("left" == driver-side)
In Sport mode, the exhaust comes out the left AND right
sides. If
you notice though, the pipe to the left side
is like 2.5". Then there
is another pipe from the
left side muffler to the right. It is
slightly larger
than a McDonald's straw.
When you switch into Tour mode, the valve closes the
LEFT side, and only
flows exhaust through the straw to
the baffle and outlet on the right.
In Sport mode, it
opens everything up, but in reality not very much
exhaust actually travels out the right-side outlets.
By default, active Exhaust will get stuck in Sport mode.
If it were in
Tour mode, you would never see exhaust come
out of the left side.
HTH,
geis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 15:04:30 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pressure test?
>> What is the procedure for pressure testing the intake system? I
have
>> a little pressure/Vac pump but what do you do to do that? I
would
>> assume remove the air filter and somehow plug that
hole....
Intake pressure testing ideas, and instructions on how to make 4 different
kinds of pressure testers (cheap), can be found on my web page below.
Version 3 costs less than $10 to make out of common hardware store (Home
Depot) items. Version 4, the nicest with a built in pressure gauge, costs
about $25 to make. You could also spend about $60 and buy one from one of
the
speed shops that specialize in our cars (see the Links and Garage Pages
at my
web site for links).
I always used an air compressor. I am not sure if a hand pump would do the
trick, especially if there is a big leak somewhere (for me it was a cracked
weld in the right aftermarket IC). Version 3 could be modified to accept a
tire valve (sometimes free from Discount Tire but available at many auto
shops) so that any gas station compressed air hose could be used.
------------------------------
my recollection is tour = passenger side, sport = drivers side, but I will
have to look at my '93 VR4 this afternoon.
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:31:02 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
Just out of curiosity do the BMW guys report any net gain in HP to the
wheels using the lighter weight oil in the trannies? One would expect
some.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
[mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:29
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
Amsoil 75W90 gear oil in all three cases too (front, transfer & rear
diff). I've also heard from the BMW crowd who also encounters Getrag
trannies that 10W30 motor oil works well for these applications.
------------------------------
I dropped a nut
from the lower intake manifold down to what looked
like the center of the engine block. I have no idea how to get it out
(already tried a magnetic pick-up tool AND a mini-clutch type pick-up
tool. NADA...
The mini-clutch type tool - is that like the retriever that plumbers use
that has little fingers at one end and a button you push at the other to
open the claws, spring loaded to close the claws? If not, this is
what I use. You can get it cheap at a builders supply store (Home Depot,
Lowes,
etc)
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 11:01:11 -0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: Team3S: Active
Exhaust
I have not looked at the drawings lately, but I recall the bypass valve
opens a direct path through the drivers muffler only. When the valve
is closed, it is forced to go through the passenger muffler and the
drivers muffler. As some one did mention, the muffler paths are
always open and some flow will occur while the bypass valve is open.
Mine has not worked for years, hopelessly frozen.
Jim
91 RTTT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 07:47:36 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
timing
FWIW ---- My 93 Stealth TT shows a build date of 5-92 on the door sticker
but when I enter the VIN into the CAPS program it shows a build date of
1-6-92. The car does have the four bolt main and the crank mounted
CAS.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
I hope it is the incorrectly installed plug wires and not a nut or bolt in
the cylinder. Try pulling the plug wires off the coils and see which of
the cylinders is not working.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:36:06 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Prayer didn't help this time...
Yeah... spring to close claws... I have both types of tools. It fell so far
in there that neither tool is helping. I'm probably going to rip off the
cooling line that connects the thermostat housing to the water pump today,
and look under the line. I think that's where the nut went. Thanks for the
heads up Tyson.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
wish I could upgrade to a chain drive or gear
drive timing system :(
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:47:05 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
timing
Okay so that clears things up. I have the 9206 to end model... the model
with the sensor next to the crankshaft. To clarify, the model with two
separate sensors in two separate locations. Mine's not adjustable. And I
have 4-bolt main, if I read Jim B's post correctly.
------------------------------
We held the inaugural meeting of the Eastern Iowa Stealth, 3000GT and Rib
Eaters society here in Cedar Rapids yesterday. Turns out we have a bunch
of budding open trackers in our little group of five (no drag racers!), so
we'll probably be heading off to MidAmerica Motorplex next spring en
masse. Also, several seem to be quite adept mechanically, which means we have a
support group in the works. One actually changed his timing belt by
himself!
We'll be meeting informally through the winter, gathering to observe and
help with mechanical mods and repairs being made to our assorted cars, and
otherwise getting in trouble of various sorts.
Anyone in Eastern Iowa who would like to join us for lunch on Tuesday,
November 19, please respond off list to
merritt@cedar-rapids.net.
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4
92 TSi
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:31:28 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
using powermeter to tune
is it a good idea? I have 450s,
mbc@12psi,
afc, hotwire kit, boost gauge, and a/f gauge awaiting install. I know that
I should just suck it up and get egt as well. I'll need to tune on the way
rich side until then to play it safe. but are the blitz powermeters accurate? if
not accurate for an absolute figure, are they at least accurate for
measuring changes in HP? As I do mods to my car, dyno pull after dyno pull
will get inconvenient and expensive.
riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
The Anti Lock Brake light came on again, and the ABS pump's running, even
with the key off.
Last time it did this, I removed the circuit breaker to make the pump
stop, put a new one in, and everything was cool. It's been working
fine until today, four months later.
So I removed the circuit breaker, let the car sit for a few minutes, and
reinstalled it. The pump started running again.
I let it sit for an hour, and put the circuit breaker back in. The pump
started running again.
Ideas? (I didn't do anything to deserve this, by the way. I wasn't racing
or stomping the brakes or nuttin.)
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 13:40:05 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
I know that tour=driver side because when mine got stuck in tour mode, it
only came out the driver side. Nothing came out the pass side. Of
course we
are talking about a US version, not European
version.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:00:24 -0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: Team3S: ABS motor
run on
Rich
If you have a volt ohm meter, check the motor relay. I would bet that
it is welded closed. DC current is nasty on relay contact
faces. I would bet that replacing the relay, or removing cover on
the relay and using a points file to clean and shape the contacts will take care
of the immediate problem. Next is to find out why it welded.
This could be from dirt getting inside the relay, or high current flow to
the motor. The motor gives itself a test when you start the car and
move at over 4 mph. So the relay sees motor starting current the majority
of its life, and starting current is 3 to 5 times motor running
current. If the motor is beginning to get a little old and hard to
turn, it will beat this relay to death with the starting current. I have
rebuilt my motor because it corroded when the previous owner bled the
brakes at the ABS unit and let brake fluid run down over the sides of the
unit. Brake fluid loves to collect water and will create lots of
rust.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 14:55:53 -0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
How did you know it was stuck in tour?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Moe Prasad
[mailto:mprasad@uswest.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 3:40
PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from
newbie
>
> I know that tour=driver side because when mine got stuck
in
> tour mode, it only came out the driver side. Nothing
came
> out the pass side. Of course we are talking about a US
>
version, not European version.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 13:26:49 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Got them ABS blues again
Same answer as last time it stuck --- ABS relay on the pump unit.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 13:36:05 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
> From: Desert Fox [mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
>
---snip--- I've also heard from the BMW crowd who also encounters
>
Getrag trannies that 10W30 motor oil works well for these applications.
>
Paul/. 95 black 3000GT VR-4
- ------------------>
From:
"Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
> Just
out of curiosity, do the BMW guys report any net gain in HP to
> the
wheels using the lighter weight oil in the trannies? One would
>
expect some.
> Pete Rivenburg
- ------------------>
I remember reading one claim (and a short discussion that I didn't pay much
attention to...) that they were seeing ~3 to 4 more HP. I wouldn't
want to take a chance doing that with *our* Getrags, though...
Remember - some of that *notchiness* goes away when you add *heavier*
RedLine.
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:09:02 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: uh
oh. do I need to buy a new engine now?
I just finished putting my timing covers back on and installing my new
450cc injectors + fuel rail. Afterwards, I decided to put some mopar
combustion chamber cleaner in there to get all the gunk out. I don't like
the idea of dousing the intake with the stuff while the car's running
(hydrolock risk), so I decided to put it all right into the cylinder head and
crank the engine.
First I changed the oil to dino oil since I know the oil will get
contaminated and will need to be changed. Then I sprayed the whole can
straight in through the holes where the 6 spark plugs go. I left the spark
plugs out. I let the engine sit for about 5-10 minutes, then I began cranking
it. Like expected, combustion chamber cleaner flew EVERYWHERE. But then, I
noticed that the cranking sound didn't sound quite right. I tried turning
the engine by hand, and it was VERY easy to turn. Is this because the
combustion cleaner is acting like some sort of lubricant, or did I just
somehow ruin my engine? In a panic, I ran upstairs to get my compression tester.
One cylinder came out to like 210 psi. Then next came out to 90 psi first
try, and then 60psi second try. eek!! I cranked for at least 5
seconds all three times. I'm very confused right now. I'm not sure if I
should check the other cylinders. Maybe the combustion cleaner is making it
inaccurate? Plz help!
.... and to get the cleaner out, should I just keep cranking... 10 seconds
on and off? Or should I go buy a wet vac and try to suck the stuff
out?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:27:23 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: uh oh. do I need to buy a new engine now?
> Afterwards, I decided to put some mopar combustion
> chamber
cleaner in there to get all the gunk out. I don't
> like the idea of
dousing the intake with the stuff while
> the car's running (hydrolock
risk), so I decided to put
> it all right into the cylinder head and crank
the engine.
It's an aerosol can, so it won't hurt it to spray in the throttle body.
Actually, that's the recommended procedure on the can.
>
First I changed the oil to dino oil since I know the oil will get
>
contaminated and will need to be changed. Then I sprayed the whole can
>
straight in through the holes where the 6 spark plugs go. I left the
>
spark plugs out.
Sounds good so far. I used 1/2 can in each cylinder when I did it....
You can also spray some into the lower intake manifold so you can clean
the valves a bit.
> I let the engine sit for about 5-10 minutes, then I began cranking
it.
It'll work much better if you let it sit overnight. But it still
works somewhat with a shorter soaking time.
> Like expected, combustion chamber cleaner flew EVERYWHERE.
Omigosh - you cranked it with significant fluid in the cylinders and the
plugs out? Your engine should be fine, but I'm sure that made a HUGE
mess. Clean that stuff off EVERYTHING in your engine bay as it will eat
almost anything, including the paint off your floor (AMHIK). If you do
it again, try using a hand pump to suck most of the fluid out of the
cylinders before cranking the engine. Also, drape an old towel you
don't care about over the spark plug holes to minimize the mess.
Damp, but not dripping towels work best. Once you only have a cc or two in
the cylinder, you can just crank it for 10 seconds at a time with the
plugs out and blow all the crap out without making too big of a
mess. You don't have to get it completely out to put it back
together and start it - just get so that there is no more than a few drops
(.5cc?) in the cylinder and you should be fine.
> But then, I noticed that the cranking sound didn't sound quite
>
right. I tried turning the engine by hand, and it was VERY
> easy to turn.
Is this because the combustion cleaner is acting
> like some sort of
lubricant, or did I just
> somehow ruin my engine?
It's probably because you have your spark plugs out :-) With no
compression in the engine, you can turn the engine pretty easily.
Don't freak out yet. Change your oil, button everything back up, go run
the car to operating temp, change your oil again, and THEN check your
compression if you're concerned.
HTH,
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:01:57 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tein Report
Not really. You just reverse the change if you want a 'real' answer.
Otherwise it's a guess, but who cares if you're going faster, it must have
been right. Just make sure to log your times and mods at
http://www.drivingevents.com/resources/tracks.html
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002
7:27 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tein Report
It is incredibly difficult to sort out whether improvements in lap times
result from driver performance or equipment modifications.
I'll never be as fast as I was when I was 22, and I won't be off the
pavement as much either. (grin)
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 17:13:41 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tein Report
Reversing a suspension change is beyond the average driver --- Schumacher
and the folks at his level can sit back while 19 guys tear his car apart
as he gets a massage in the transporter --- I'm lucky I can check the air
pressure at an event.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:37:36 -0600
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S: Door
Locks
Now that it's winter again, I am reminded of the problem I chose to
ignore last winter. Each and every one of my door locks is a PITA to use
in cold weather. I can barely get the key in and when I do get it in I
have problems turning it. Taking it out is just as hard. I've never had
a car do this to me before, so I was wondering if this is something I
can get repaired, or if I'll be forced to replace my locks. Thanks
guys.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 20:59:26 -0500
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
IndyStealth@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Active exhaust
OK gang, let's settle this with a picture and explanation drawn by
Mitsubishi...
Viewing the pictures in these links, you can see that the exhaust
can
*always* come out of both sides. The driver-side muffler actually
has several paths available. In Sport ("normal") mode, the majority
of the gases take a more straight-through path out the driver's side,
skipping the muffling material. In Tour ("silent") mode, the
straight-through path is blocked by the valve, and the exhaust is forced
to go through the muffling material in the driver-side muffler, and then
either out of the driver side tailpipes or continue on to the passenger
side if it chooses.
I imagine that most peoples' experience comes from looking at the exhaust
coming from their tailpipes while the car is idling, which is a lot
different than driving at higher RPM with the turbos spooled up.
When you start pushing a lot of exhaust through the system in Tour mode,
then the driver's side muffler will build up backpressure and relatively
more of the exhaust gases will find the path of least resistance is to
travel out the passenger side muffler.
If your system is working properly, it always goes into Sport mode above
3500 RPM, regardless of setting.
In my experience on my 91 RT/TT, the 11-year-old active exhaust valve
rarely opens or closes *all the way*. My valve tends to stick
somewhere between the 2 extreme positions, and only moves partially in
either direction when the actuator engages. If you don't hear a dramatic
difference between the 2 modes, your car is probably in the same
situation. Recently, while installing my Stillen downpipe, I had the
muffler shop remove the shield around the actuator valve. Now I can
move the valve to the extreme positions by hand, and it sticks wherever I put
it. If I close the valve all the way by hand (Tour mode), then it is
amazing how quiet the car gets, especially at full throttle with my
Stillen downpipe. When I do this, I can see that a lot of exhaust
actually chooses to come out of the passenger (longer route) side, even at
idle.
In later years when they dropped the active exhaust, the same muffler setup
was used, but the actuator valve was gone.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 21:03:14 -0500
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
IndyStealth@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Door Locks
David:
Try using dry graphite lubricant. Works wonders on the sticking
tumblers.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 22:02:04 EST
From:
Tadco37@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Engine
"Stumbles"
Hi all,
About
two months ago I purchased 91 Stealth TT with 128,000 miles. It
ran just
fine until the temperature outside started to drop. Now when started
the car
will idle fine but when the engine is still cold it stumbles when
hitting
the gas. This happens if the car is in neutral or when in gear. The
rpm's
will drop from 3500 to 2500 than back up than down etc. After the car
warms
up pretty good after about 15 minutes or so it runs much better. When
the
stumbling occurs the oil pressure and engine temp. seem normal. I have
changed the plugs and wires (ngk gap-0.041) and the fuel filter and the
results are the same. The car appears to be totally stock. The old plugs
seemed to have normal wear but did have carbon deposits on them. It is also
evident that it is in need of a 60,000 (120,000) mile service. I sure would
appreciate any help with
this.
Thanks Guys, Tom
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:58:58 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
uh oh. do I need to buy a new engine now?
okay, well I'll buy more cans and do it right. I hand cleaned the plenum
and
lower intake manifold--soooo much junk in there!!! but I didn't get
the
valves with the c.c. cleaner yet. it will be awhile till I can start her
up.
need to install new alternator and reinstall the radiator, acc. belts,
air
hoses, plenum, and various little brackets and mounts that attach
them.
anyway, I feel better now. I forgot that removing the plugs will
remove
compression :)
Riyan
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 23:37:40 EST
From:
Rod2414738@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Active Exhaust construction
Has anyone had the active exhaust valve assemble completely apart?
Mine was
stuck and the motor works just fine. I worked with it tonight
and got it to
where I could move it with some difficulty by hand. The
valve was too sticky
for the spring to rotate back on its own, so I thought
about taking the
spring assembly apart. I started to loosen the nut on
the top of the spring
assembly and all of a sudden the valve freed up.
I tightened the nut back up
until the sprocket didn't move quite so freely
and didn't have play in it.
When I rotate the sprocket, the threaded
shaft that acts as the sprocket axle
does not rotate. I'm guessing
that the threaded shaft is the valve axle and
somehow my sprocket is no
longer connected to the valve, only moving the
spring. I still don't
notice a distinguishable difference in exhaust sound
with the engine running
in the garage. I haven't taken it for a drive yet.
I'm just concerned that if I take the spring assembly apart I won't be able
to get it back together without dropping the exhaust or something. I
don't
need it to work, but it drives me nuts when I KNOW something on my car
doesn't work as it's supposed to.
- -Rod
'93 Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 19:05:40 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU parts diagram
People have already tried and had no success.
Steve
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU parts diagram
> I'm looking much more into a schematic diagram of our ECU's ... this
would
> definitely solve some major questions !!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 22:52:53 -0800
From: "cris lamas" <
bigcela@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: intake
I was wondering if anyone made a cold air intake for the 3000
gt.
cris
92
3000 gt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 01:48:15 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Prayer didn't help this time...
Tried that. The engine runs like crap so its hard to tell, but I think
all
are firing...
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSent:
Wednesday, November 06, 2002 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Prayer didn't help
this time...
I hope it is the incorrectly installed plug wires and not a nut or bolt
in
the cylinder. Try pulling the plug wires off the coils and see which of
the
cylinders is not working.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 01:50:03 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Timing marks on the crank Pulley (Continuation: Prayer didn't help...)
Found out today from Eric that it is possible to check the crank
timing
without having to remove the crank pulley. I was told that the crank
pulley
is supposed to have a white dot on it (for a timing light) to signify
it's
timing mark. It should also have a notch somewhere. I looked everywhere
and
I have no dot.
I did find a notch though which looks to be what I am looking for. The
notch
is on the inside rim of the pulley and the only way I can see it is to
look
straight down through the engine bay. The only thing I have been able
to
find to line-up the notch against has is a little tiny scale on the
lower
timing belt cover. I see it read BTDC, 5, 10, 20. I assume BTDC means
TDC
(Top Dead Center). The scale itself is obstructed by the power steering
belt
making it almost impossible to read. I also tried to look at it through
the
wheel well with the driver front tire removed and it is not visible at
all
from that angle. I read online that the timing on the crank should be at
TDC
when the cams are all lined up.
I lined up the cams, everything there lines up great, look down and
my
timing notch is nowhere even near the little scale that is obstructed by
the
power steering belt. So we are talking Major slippage! Then I look
around
for where the timing notch on the crank pulley is and incidentally
enough it
is at the very top dead center of the pulley itself. So now I'm
confused...
Is that a co-incidence? Is that notch supposed to be on the scale BTDC or
at
the 12-o'clock on the pulley itself? Is my timing ok or not? I looked
all
over the manual and they have two whole pages with pictures on how to
do
timing on the cams but there is NOTHING about the crank! Furthermore I
could
find no reference at all to where the timing marks on the crank pulley
are
or what they line up to. Again there is like 4 pages on the cams,
but
nothing on the crank....
Could someone help me here? I cant find my damn pulley removal tool for
the
life of me and this is driving me nuts!
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 07:52:25 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Active Exhaust construction
I've had my spring assembly apart before. You'll have no
trouble
getting it back together. When my active exhaust didn't work, I
thought
a "cure" would be to increase spring tension. So that's what I
did. I
took the spring assembly apart, cut 1/2 of a loop off the
spring, and
then re-assembled it with increased tension. It worked a
little longer
than normal, but eventually stuck again. So, all in all,
it wasn't
worth the work.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#991
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