Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, November 6 2002 Volume
01 : Number 990
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 07:31:32 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Vinny, there is no light that tells you when the exhaust is in Sport
mode. Also, when you put the switch in Sport mode, the switch is
actually flush with the switchplate--it doesn't "go down" like you'd
expect. In other words, it's only a two position switch--on (in the "up"
position (Sport Mode), or off (in the "flush" position, or Tour
mode).
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vinny
[mailto:vinman3@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 10:54
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Thanks for the info, but i think my problem is that I can't put the switch
in SPORT mode. Should I see a light? I see a light for
the sport mode suspension but not exhaust.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 04:37:10 -0800
From: "eK2mfg" <
eK2mfg@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ECU advice (more specific)
there is a thread with these capacitors for like 5.00 shipped on
3si.org...don't have a link but like 8 bucks you can get 3 sets of
them......very easy to do yourself if you can use a soldering iron...but
for 20 bucks that does seem like a cheep "don't mess with it" price.
bobk.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
November 05, 2002 3:22 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECU advice (more
specific)
> Dude, the TV repair shop method will cost you $20 at the most. Give it
> a shot. I would give it a 50-50% of working. If not, you are out $20,
> better than $1400 or even $375.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 07:19:35 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
rod oil squirters
First: when the rod is spinning around, that oil can be directed alot
of places; Second, what you need to do is look at exactly when the rod's
oil squirter hole/hole in rod bearing LINES UP with the 2 pressurized oil
holes in the CRANKSHAFT's rod journal. Alignment/squirting happens
twice per revolution (there are 2 holes in the crank). The squirter
only squirts when those holes are lined up; I suspect at least one is when
the squirter is aimed more at the piston bottom. I don't have time
to run out and look at stuff now, but that is logical/the usual way they are
designed. Jack T.
From: "fastmax"
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002
> Jack:
> In
a thread about forged rods on the 3SI.org board you made the
> following
statement. "They are very stout rods stock, and since
> most/all
aftermarket rods lose the oil squirter on the rod beam aimed
> at the
bottom of the piston, there is actually an advantage --- "
> When I was
looking at upgrading my Pauter rods, I looked
> at the rod squirter and it
seems it's pointed at the cylinder wall
> rather than the piston in
addition I could not find any information
> on it. The regular piston
squirters in the block are described in the
> TIM but nothing is said
about the rod squirter. Do you have any
> information on the rod squirter
?
>
Jim Berry
------------------------------
the sport lamp is probably burned out. if you are hearing the little
motor like you say, the switch is working.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 10:45:17 -0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
What year did you say the car is? My car is a '94 and I don't have a
sport light for the exhaust, only a tour light. So when it is in
tour, there is a green light in the middle of the dash (between the speedo
and tach), in sport, nothing.
Usually, if you don't WD-40 the thing it will stick in sport mode about
every 6 months. I just gave up on mine. Good news is: Unless
you think your car is too loud, it doesn't matter.
geis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 12:42:24 -0500
From:
jimmy.lamon@us.pwcglobal.comSubject:
Team3S: Need part number for Top close Position switch on Spyder
I bought a 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT Spyder about a month ago from Brandon
Mitsubishi. It had a broken antenna and, intermittently when you closed
the top, the back windows would not come up. They said they would repair
both. The antenna is done but they thought the top problem was just an
adjustment. The problem got worse so I took it back in. They think the Top close
position switch needs to be replaced. The problem is they can not find the
part number for it. Any ideas on how I could find it? They have had my car
for 9 days now. I have requested access to the CAPS files.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 18:12:56 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
Hey guys,
Me again, sorry but I am trying to get my
VR4 (just bought w/ 30K miles) on the road and have a few last
questions:
1) I have (maybe stock) michelins, The sidewall says 44psi max.
What PSI is everyone running? should I do 40 front - 35 rear?
2) I am switching over to Amsoil oil and they have two weights. 0w-30 and
20w-50 Series 2000, both are fully synthetic. Both of these
are Turbo approved. I would like to use the 20-50 but I am not sure
if it is too thick? What weight oil is everyone using? I drive in
cold and hot weather and with extended drain intervals this same oil will
be there for a while.
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:24:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Les Gemar <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
I have a 1991 VR-4 and asked the local Mitsubishi
dealer mechanic the
same question about oil weight. I
was using a 20W-50 and he said this is too
thick. His
recommendation is a 10W-40. Les Gemar
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:43:47 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
From: "Vinny" <
vinman3@comcast.net>
> Hey
guys,
> Me again, sorry but I am trying to get my
VR4 (just bought w/ 30K
> miles) on the road and have a few last
questions:
> 1) I have (maybe stock) michelins, The sidewall says
44psi max.
> What PSI is everyone running? should I do 40 front - 35
rear?
- ------------------------->
That's probably close to what you
should use, but only you can decide what
*feels* best for your style of
driving, the roads you frequent, the speeds you typically run,
etc... Start by setting 46F/42R, then try 42F/38R, and then 38F/34R.
If you drive slowly and like a mushy ride, the latter will feel best; if
you drive at high-speeds and take tight corners, the higher pressures will
feel more sure-footed. And don't forget rain - tires higher
pressures will hydroplane less than lower pressures. But you must
make the decision here...
> 2) I am switching over to Amsoil oil and they have two weights. 0w-30
> and 20w-50 Series 2000, both are fully synthetic. Both of
these
> are Turbo approved. I would like to use the 20-50 but I am
not sure
> if it is too thick? What weight oil is everyone using? I
drive in
> cold and hot weather and with extended drain intervals this
same oil
> will be there for a while.
-
------------------------->
No offense to the Team3S guys who are private
Amsoil dealers, BUT *who* exactly *approved* these for turbos???
Gee..., might it be Amsoil? Amsoil has bought hundreds of websites under
other names (xxxLabs.com, for example) to tout their products, and make
outrageous claims. Any time I see that kind of "marketing(?)", I
find the product to be suspect. Stick with Mobil-1 10W40 in the
summer and 10W30 in the winter (or you can't go wrong with Red Line) and change
your oil every 3000 or so miles. Don't nickel-and-dime when it comes
to taking care of your car. Viper, Jaguar, Corvette, Porsche, Lexus,
BMW are ALL recommending Mobil-1 as their oil of choice. That's good
enough for me.
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 19:50:53 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
Vinny - Congrats again on the purchase.
Not to get on the oil soapbox - the weight is important to get right
whether you go with Mobil, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Amsoil, etc. You
should use the 10W-30 ("turbo formulated") grade from Amsoil as this is
recommended by them.
20W-50 is for racing applications like drag strip runs all the time, open
track events, driver's ed events, etc. You do not want this in your
car if you are in cold weather applications (say, below 50 degrees F
maybe). 10W-30 is recommended. A friend of mine is testing the
Series 2000 in his car but due to a water pump leak he is not getting to
put as many miles on the car for the test.
What I have found with the Amsoil is that I have zero lifter tick. It
is synthetic just like the others. It is 10W-30 just like all the
others. So in a true head-to-head battle I choose Amsoil due to the
prevention of lifter tick.
- --Flash!
1995-1/2 VR-4 with Amsoil in for the last 25,000 miles
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vinny
Sent: Tuesday, November 05,
2002 18:13
1) I have (maybe stock) michelins, The sidewall says 44psi max.
What PSI is everyone running? should I do 40 front - 35 rear?
2) I am switching over to Amsoil oil and they have two weights. 0w-30 and
20w-50 Series 2000, both are fully synthetic. Both of these
are Turbo approved. I would like to use the 20-50 but I am not sure
if it is too thick? What weight oil is everyone using? I drive in
cold and hot weather and with extended drain intervals this same oil will
be there for a while.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 19:55:54 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
I agree with you Bob but I am trying a single-handed effort at gathering
data from other oils and compare them on a more fair battleground. I
have sent in both Amsoil 10W-30 oil, a friend has sent in Mobil 1 10W-30
oil, and someone else is sending in Amsoil Series 2000 oil. I am trying
to get some more Mobil 1 samples sent in and then some RedLine and
Pennzoil oils in order to round out the competition.
I am not an oil expert. I have to wait for an independent lab to
return the results. However, I am willing to believe a machine
better than my eyes (how black is it) and fingers (how slippery is it) to
testing the oil.
I don't want to come to any conclusions without more data so those who are
skeptical about Amsoil feel free to send in samples of your oil after
3,000 miles and we'll start to gather some data. Forrest - I expect
you to be one of the first ones to volunteer. Let me know what the results
are when you get them back. =)
And no offense taken, Bob. You are allowed to have your
opinion.
- --Flash!
1995-1/2 VR-4 with Amsoil
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
Sent: Tuesday,
November 05, 2002 18:44
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil weight and tire
pressure
No offense to the Team3S guys who are private Amsoil dealers, BUT *who*
exactly *approved* these for turbos??? Gee..., might it be Amsoil?
Amsoil has bought hundreds of websites under other names (xxxLabs.com, for
example) to tout their products, and make outrageous claims. Any time
I see that kind of "marketing(?)", I find the product to be suspect.
Stick with Mobil-1 10W40 in the summer and 10W30 in the winter (or you
can't go wrong with Red Line) and change your oil every 3000 or so
miles. Don't nickel-and-dime when it comes to taking care of your
car. Viper, Jaguar, Corvette, Porsche, Lexus, BMW are ALL
recommending Mobil-1 as their oil of choice. That's good enough for
me.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 19:55:53 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
>From my own experience and what I've read on Team3S and Starnet, lifter
tick has absolutely nothing to do with the type of oil you use so long as
it is of synthetic nature, and it is changed at regular intervals...
I've used Mobil 1 in my car pretty much since I bought it... No
lifter tick whatsoever... For a while (maybe a couple months), I
would get it... then it just went away, no changes whatsoever...
(following my normal every 3000 mile oil change interval, and yes I replace the
filter every time too)...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Tuesday,
November 05, 2002 6:51 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil weight and tire
pressure
What I have found with the Amsoil is that I have zero lifter tick. It
is synthetic just like the others. It is 10W-30 just like all the
others. So in a true head-to-head battle I choose Amsoil due to the
prevention of lifter tick.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 21:22:56 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Oil weight and tire pressure
I'm confused, Bob. What difference is this from people asking about
Tein HA or Ground Control coilover setups on different cars with different
drivers and different road courses? Didn't THAT just go around the
list recently with people happy about hearing from different people on
their input about this stuff? It might not be truly scientific but
it is a LOT closer than Joe Schmo saying his oil is black after 3,000
miles and another saying his is dark brown and who knows if his filter is
trapping anything. If you are willing to pay me for all the testing then I
will do it but as long as someone was going to change their oil then I
thought it a perfect time to get a baseline reading on their oil (not only
for them) but for some data points. "Two points make a line but
three confirm it." The more data points we get the better the results
are.
If you have an engine stand with identical engines then set up the test.
That has not stopped anyone from testing tires, injectors, spark plug
wires, K&N FIPK devices, exhausts, boost controllers, etc. on
different year cars, different miles, different driving styles. Why the
do you feel compelled to bring this to the surface on this particular
topic? You gonna say that 94 Octane in my car gives vastly different gas
mileage than yours? Sure, but 22.3 mpg versus 22.5 mpg is probably
not a large enough difference to cause any fuss.
It isn't that I prefer one oil over another but was asking for more data
points from more cars at various levels of age, use, miles driven,
harshness of driving, those with lifter tick, those without, etc. to see
if people get similar results or have lifter tick go away with Amsoil. If
my lifter tick comes back then I'll switch to Mobil 1 and see if that
works. Maybe my car just was old enough to eliminate lifter tick -
it just so happened that it did this with one specific motor oil and not
the other three that I tried.
I am trying to gather info for our cars and our car lists, Bob.
Please leave your personal grudge with Amsoil (or any other company) at
the door and try and stay on topic to discuss what benefits the members.
Not flaming - but everytime I get into an oil discussion it gets taken off topic
and I don't know why. As a person who recently bought a car I would
think Vinny would love to hear some technical details about things.
I have technical reports on my oil usage and am happy to share them with
others. The problem is - I don't think others with Mobil 1 have had their
oil analyzed so I can't discuss with anyone yet.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002
21:03
Subject: OT: Oil Comparison Methodology (was:Oil weight and
tire
pressure)
Thanks SO much for your permission for me to have my opinion(!?!).
But since such a study would patently unscientific, it's pointless.
Let's see... A number of different drivers with different cars and
different driving habits and different oil-change intervals have their oil
tested
- -- for what? The only way to evaluate *any* component is to
test it with all other components in a static state: one car, one driver,
driving the same route, identical oil-change intervals and
varying
*only* the oil for each test cycle. And while you're at it,
since each engine will age slightly with every 3,000 miles, start with
identical (and previously tested) engines (plural) at the same point in
their lifecycle. Then test them side-by-side in a controlled
temp/pressure/altitude facility to remove any remaining variables which
might affect the results. In other words, don't be
{{{insert-flame-like-adjective-that-violates-our-list-rules-HERE}}}!
;-)
I'm dying to see any *real* results about Amsoil. Until then..., and
until they discontinue their "sneaky" and highly-suspect marketing
strategy, it's Mobil-1 for me. We'll discuss this privately, if you
wish to continue, since this no longer has anything to do with our cars, and
has become OFF-TOPIC.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 19:29:29 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
I'm running Amsoil Series 3000 5W30 heavy duty diesel oil in mine after
trying both the Series 2000 0W30 and the regular "turbo approved" 10W30
from Amsoil. I'll have to agree with everyone's comments here - Bob is
correct in that "Turbo Approved" is a nice marketing touch; Flash -
whatever works to make the car run and sound the way you personally want it to,
shoot use it!
- - Cody - synthetic is the way to go, period, Amsoil, Mobil 1
or granny's special. Synthetic is better.
In talking with the Amsoil folk, they claim that their Series 3000 5W30 is
the universal formula (even though it says heavy duty diesel and doesn't
say turbo approved - but think about it... Most heavy duty diesel engines
ARE turbo!). Hence, I'm trying it in the VR-4 because if it runs as quiet
as the 10W30 did, then I can get gallons of it and use it in all my vehicles.
Currently I have Series 2000 0W30 in one car, 10W30 in a truck and Series
3000 5W30 in the VR-4. If the ticking time bomb noise stays away with this
5W30, then I'll score a 55 gallon drum and put it in everything including
the riding lawn mower. Or wait a minute... Maybe it is called Series 3000
because it was MADE for 3000GT!!!!!!;-) Hahahaha... Sorry, just had to get that
one out...
I ran Mobil 1 once for 4,000 miles while on a road trip where I did not
have access to my Amsoil "stash". SERIOUS lifter ticking going on for the
duration of the change. As soon as I went back to Amsoil 10W30, no more
tick. Nothing scientific, nothing but anecdotal evidence and using the ear
as my guide. And I'm waiting on my oil analysis results of some 10W30 that had
over 6,000 miles on it...
The Series 2000 0W30 was great for cold weather starts at -20°F but was a
bit thin to totally prevent the ticking. Going up to the 10W30 was not
only less expensive but also silent, which as I mentioned was not the case
with the Mobil 1 10W30. If I lived in Texas instead of Montana, I would
try a round of the 20W50 since temperatures are so much higher year round. That
does seem awfully heavy for our particular cars though. Unless.... (read
on)
Also another fact that seems to be overlooked is that an engine in proper
operating condition shouldn't need these heavier weight oils. That higher
viscosity is a help on older, more worn out engines, if I understand my
petroleum facts properly. Or have I been hitting the pipe too hard? It
would seem that worn pistons and/or rings would benefit from the heavier
viscosity, no?
Amsoil 75W90 gear oil in all three cases too (front, transfer & rear
diff). I've also heard from the BMW crowd who also encounters Getrag
trannies that 10W30 motor oil works well for these applications.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 21:30:47 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
Vinny, congrats on your purchase -- you're going to love/hate this
car!
These are my opinions based upon experience:
remove the Michelins today. Don't drive to the gas station on
them. Michelin
tires have a nasty habit of blowing out on you at
random intervals and the
company won't make good on the tires, much less the
damage to your vehicle. This
has happened to me twice, so never again.
Also, you didn't say what year the
car is. Whatever the year, look at
the date code on the tires and if they're
older than 5 years, even with 30k
miles, trash them immediately. UV and other
pollutants make tires age
rapidly in modern times. A lot of manufacturers are
setting a life
limit of 4-7 years on all their tires.
I don't have any experience with Amsoil, but some people love it and some
people
say it is snake oil. I prefer Mobil 1 or the Castrol dino
oil. In either case,
do NOT, absolutely NOT go more than 5,000 miles
without an oil change even on
synthetics. Ask the oil manufacturers
(excluding the magical, wishful
market-speak of Amsoil company.)
HTH,
AI Nut
'94 3000 VR-4, Mobil 1, and currently Yokohama
tires. Think I'll try the
all-weather Sumitomo's though.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 21:34:33 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
Oh yes, I forgot. Don't use the pressure value stamped on the side of
the tire.
That is the *tire* manufacturers maximum pressure rating at
the load range
(vehicle weight) the tire is designed for. If you use
that max number, your
ride will be very rough and the tires will wear
prematurely down the center.
Generally, use the values on the vehicle body
or vehicle owner's manual as a
good place to start. On my '94 VR-4, I
started with the recommended 33 psi
front and 29 psi rear (I think) and
played around with different pressures when
I got the car. I settled
on the Mitsu recommendations. Important: use a
*calibrated* tire
gauge, they only cost about $1 more ($4 total.)
HTH,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 21:44:52 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OT: Oil Comparison Methodology (was:Oil weight and tire pressure)
I think this is completely about our cars!!!
There is a routine oil testing procedure for engines of all types.
The tests
show what metals are in the used oil. The metal contents
display which
components are wearing and how fast they are wearing.
For the study mentioned,
it would be outstanding to have input from tons of
the same car/engines. This
will indicate the engine/materials design
longevity and not just a single engine
failure point, which could be for any
reason. However, for important data
relevant to your engine only, take
the oil sample and send it to the analysis
lab -- the first one becomes the
baseline, regardless of how many miles are on
YOUR engine. Send a
sample in every time you change the oil and track the
metals over time --
this indicates the exact parts in your engine that will fail
next.
Btw, the analysis cost varies from $4 to about $12, depending.
The Army does this for all it's tanks, trucks, and certain other vehicles
and it
has saved us (taxpayers) literally millions of dollars in catching
failures
before they happen and take out other components when they go (not
to mention
the all-important readiness values 8-).
Who wants to be the data keeper for our cars???
HTH,
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 21:54:47 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
BTW, I hate the way that when I hit reply, the message is addressed to
originator and not the list. All my other lists work the opposite way
8-).
Anyway, back to topic.
Desert Fox, I'd be very careful of using the diesel rated oil in your
3000. I
have a Cat 3208T turbo diesel engine as well as my car.
AIUI, diesel oil has
completely different additives because they expect the
oil to mix with the fuel
(and it always does). Not so you can see it,
but in the combustion chamber
where it is burned (unless you have leaky
rings, etc.) Anyway, the sulfurs are
much higher in diesel oil and are
hell on the much tighter bearing tolerances on
our cars versus big
diesel engines. I'd not put that in my car.
Contact an Mitsu engineer (yeah, right) and a diesel engine manufacturer
and
discuss it with them before risking your very expensive 6G72 and
turbos.
AI Nut
------------------------------
i have a couple questions about timing. in order to get my car to run
well,
i have to have the timing retarded to about 30 degrees btdc. I
am wondering
if this is related to a problem with the crank angle
sensor. i have never
removed it, but is it possible that if someone
else had, that it could be a
couple of teeth off. would this cause the
car to run poorly and stutter at
normal timing. how do i find top dead
center to reset this. I have a 91
stealth rt/dohc/na. new parts
include ecu,coil pack, plugs, wires, timing
belt, fuel filter, and others
not related to this problem. CAS is all i can
think of that might be
causing this problem.
thanks, justin sturgeon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:23:30 EST
From:
Rod2414738@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Okay, what path does the sport mode take? I just found out tonight
that my
exhaust valve is stuck. When I turn the switch to "tour" mode,
the motor
turns and the cable bunches up at the motor. The valve
doesn't budge.
However, since it is cold out, I can see that exhaust
is only coming out the
driver's side muffler, not both. I figured
"sport" mode would be the dual
exhaust setting and "tour" mode the single
exhaust. am I wrong? I guess I
will check out stealth316 while
waiting for a reply.
- -Rod
recent '93 Stealth TT owner
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 21:47:05 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
You are correct.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Rod2414738@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
November 05, 2002 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio
question from newbie
> Okay, what path does the sport mode take? I just found out
tonight
> that my exhaust valve is stuck. When I turn the switch to
"tour"
> mode, the motor turns and the cable bunches up at the
motor. The
> valve doesn't budge. However, since it is cold out, I
can see that
> exhaust is only coming out the driver's side muffler, not
both. I
> figured "sport" mode would be the dual exhaust setting and
"tour"
> mode the single exhaust. am I wrong?
>
> I
guess I will check out stealth316 while waiting for a reply.
>
>
-Rod
> recent '93 Stealth TT owner
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 21:43:31 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
Well the manual shows oil with API rating of SH, SH/CD, SG or SG/SD labeled
energy conserving. Since 1995 (my vintage) there have been additional
specifications added that expound upon these original classifications. The
manual says 5W30 preferred for NA with 10W30 being the option. It lists
10W30 for turbo models with 20W40 as the alternate for warmer weather.
On the other hand, the manual gives viscosities for the rear differential
with break points at above -10°F use SAE 90, 85W90 or 80W90 - from -30°F
to
- -10°F use SAE 80W or 80W90 - and below -30°F use SAE 75W!!!!!!!! I live
in one of the coldest spots you would find someone daily driving these
cars and it isn't below -30°F but for only a few days a year here. How
many 3000GT were imported to Antarctica?
Amsoil 10W30 is API SL, SJ, CF, ILSAC GF-3, GF-2, ACEA A2, B2, ACEA A3, B3,
B4, Ford WSS-M2C205A, M2C153G, GM 4718M, Chrysler MS 10441, MS 6395H, JASO
VTW, VW 502.00, 505.00, Porsche, BMW, Daimler Benz 229.1, 229.3
Amsoil Series 3000 is API SL, SJ, SH, CH-4, CF-2, CF, ILSAC GF-3, GF-2,
Ford M2C153G, M2C171-C, GM 4718M, 9986137, Chrysler MS-6395-J, MS-9767, VW
502.00, 505.00, Volvo VDS-2, Cummins CES20076, CES20077.
Amsoil Series 2000 0W30 is API SL, SJ, SH, CF, Ford M2C153G, GM 4718M,
Daimler Benz 229.1, 229.3, etc.
Mobil 1 10W30 is API SJ, SH/CF.
So as you can plainly see, all of these choices fit the recommended grades.
So does every bottle and brand of 10W30 I found in my garage as does the
Castrol 20W50.
I think the SL and SJ in particular are the ratings that surpass the SH
rating called for in the 1995 manual.
I thought I'd give it a whirl but am already leaning back to the normal
10W30 as it has proven tick-free and is less expensive.
Wouldn't it be funny on all us if Mobil 1, Amsoil, Castrol, Quaker State
et. al. all came from the same place! Me thinks that if you go with a
recommended viscosity and API service rating, you'll be OK even with dino
oil, provided frequent changes and normal engine. Using the proper
viscosity and API service rating with synthetic oil is overkill, which we
all want, as insurance and peace of mind.
Not to mention that synthetics reduce our dependency on foreign oil, are
generally more fuel efficient, and can be used at extended drain intervals
to conserve even more resources.
Thanks for the advice RE: sulfur content. I'll get it analyzed and see
what's up with it...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 22:54:30 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need part number for Top close Position switch on Spyder
> I bought a 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT Spyder about a month ago from Brandon
> Mitsubishi. It had a broken antenna and, intermittently when you
> closed the top, the back windows would not come up. They said they
would
> repair both. The antenna is done but they thought the top problem
was
> just an adjustment. The problem got worse so I took it back
in.
> They think the Top close position switch needs to be
replaced.
> The problem is they can not find the part number for it.
Any
> ideas on how I could find it? They have had my car for 9
days
> now. I have requested access to the CAPS files.
The Spyder-specific parts aren't in CAPS. They'll need to look in the
Spyder parts book (if they have one).
Jeff has some parts diagrams/info on his site:
Check diagrams 987 & 988. Good luck actually finding Spyder parts
though. :-(
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 21:37:22 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: timing
i have a couple questions about timing. in order to get my car to run
well, i have to have the timing retarded to about 30 degrees btdc. I
am wondering if this is related to a problem with the crank angle
sensor.
>> Yes it is. To my knowledge the Crank angle sensor is the central
part
>> of
the system and is what the ECU uses as a measure of
timing.
i have never
removed it, but is it possible that if someone else had,
that it could be a couple of teeth off.
>> Yes. It is adjustable and could be out of whack.
would this cause the car to run poorly and stutter at
normal
timing.
>>Absolutely.
how do i find top dead center to reset this.
>>Only way I know of is to use a timing light (get one at any auto
parts
store) and see what your timing really is. Then you have to tap into
the ECU (by way of a pocket logger, datalogger or a Mitsubishi diagnostics
computer) and see what the ECU reads the angle to be. Then adjust the
Crank Angle Sensor until both numbers match.
I have a 91
stealth rt/dohc/na. new parts include ecu,coil pack,
plugs, wires, timing belt, fuel filter, and others not related to this
problem. CAS is all i can think of that might be causing this
problem. thanks, justin sturgeon
>> Good luck
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 01:02:48 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum
<
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU parts diagram
Hello again,
I took my ECU to a tv repair shop (I hate that I'm doing things so slowly,
but
I don't have so much time or a working ECU to transport me) and the guy
said he
needed to know what part it was under the corrosion - it's a really
small black
box adjacent to the 47uF capacitor in-between the capacitor and
where the plugs
attach. To clean up the mess from the capacitor (which
spread out a little bit
from the capacitor) and install the capacitors he
wants $100 (this is still
much better than Mitsu or buying a refurbished
one). The main thing is that I
don't know what component is under the
corrosion. I will get another quote
anyway, but is he charging a fair
amount? Or is he reasoning that since it's
from a car the repairs must
cost a lot? Is there some sort of parts diagram
for the ECU?
It's a 1991 Stealth R/T. Thank you very much.
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:21:55 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil weight and tire pressure
> 1) I have (maybe stock) michelins, The sidewall says 44psi
max. What
> PSI is everyone running? should I do 40 front -
35 rear?
>
Personally I run 35 in front and 39 in back.
> 2) I am
switching over to Amsoil oil and they have two weights. 0w-30
> and
20w-50 Series 2000, both are fully synthetic. Both of these are
> Turbo approved. I would like to use the 20-50 but I am not sure
if it
> is too thick? What weight oil is everyone using? I
drive in cold and
> hot weather and with extended drain intervals this
same oil will be
> there for a while.
>
I have 5-30 in the car
now going to have to change to soon because it is really cold outside. And
I'm getting tons of lifter tick.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 22:43:41 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Prayer didn't help this time...
Well, got done with the Turbo swap tonight at around 10 PM. Went to start
up the beast and it really did not want to take... I know I got some
vacuum lines messed up right now but far as I can tell I got all the
important stuff hooked up (FPR, Boost Controller etc).
Finally after messing with the stuff for about half an hour gave it another
shot and it reluctantly started up. Ran like crap but I figured that
because the ECU was unplugged etc the car needed to learn its way back
into the sweet zone. Tried to drive around the block (about 200meters) and
the car died three times. Would not let me put the gas on, anything over
1500RPM and it would stop then was very hard to start. Popped the hood to
make sure the MAS sensor is on etc, everything looked good. Checked
relays, the FPR all seem ok. Went inside again cranked it up and then went
to look under the hood with it running. To my horror I heard what sounded like
24 ball point hammers knocking around in the block. I have never heard
knock but this is exactly what I would expect it to sound like.....
Question now is what on earth could I have done to cause it? The car ran
fine and did not have that sound before. I had the front timing cover off
and the front Valve cover off but I was being pretty careful to not drop
anything in there and never noticed anything going down there... The
turbos that I put in the car were certainly not "rebuilt-never used" as I was
told, but seemed to be in better condition than mine. In ether way I
cannot see a turbo or anything related to it causing this problem.
I remember when about 18 months ago Paul dropped a plenum nut into the
timing belt. I think by the final tally that cost him about $4500 (granted
he got everything replaced in there and now has an awesome car with 13g's,
flywheel, new clutch, forged pistons, AFC, 450 injectors etc). But man, do
I NOT (NOT!) want to go though that!
My roommate/land lord just about had a coronary over the past 4 days
because she had to once scrape ice and once walk 2 feet in the rain to get
to her car, so any major work on the car in the garage is out of the
question. I am certainly not taking it to a shop because (a) I don't trust
them and (b) I cant afford it.
Tomorrow I'm gonna pull the timing covers and the crank cover off and check
the timing belt. I am scared as hell at what I will find. Pray/chant/think
of good things for me :(
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 22:40:13 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
timing
Justin-
The crank angle sensor is bolted in such a way that it will not be off
(unless someone was drunk or half-asleep when they re-installed it after
the timing belt installation). There are two 10mm bolts that hold it into
the bottom end of the block. Maybe your timing belt slipped, wasn't
installed right, or something else is up. Did this problem occur before AND
after your timing belt replacement, or just after? That info will get us
started.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 22:43:49 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
timing
adjustable.... how? I just bought a new crank angle sensor since
there's a crack in my old one. It didn't look adjustable to me. If it is,
then
disregard my last post!! :)
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
curious about that CAS.... do I need to adjust
my new one before I install it??
------------------------------
> adjustable.... how? I just bought a new crank angle sensor since
> there's
a
> crack in my old one. It didn't look adjustable to
me. If it is, then
> disregard my last post!! :)
I'm not sure about the 93s but on my 92 RT TT, it is adjustable.
Loosen one bolt and then the sensor can be turned just like a
distributor.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:07:37 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Prayer didn't help this time...
Good luck Tyson, and now you're scaring the crap outta me. I dropped a nut
from the lower intake manifold down to what looked like the center of the
engine block. I have no idea how to get it out (already tried a magnetic
pick-up tool AND a mini-clutch type pick-up tool. NADA... And I don't know
if it'll eventually make it's way to the timing area to attack my belt. It looks
like it fell into the area where that long metal tube that leads from the
water pump to the coolant fill spout is.
But I do know this. I've heard a "24-hammer" like sound and guess what it
was? My ruined water pump bearings bouncing all around, eating up my
timing belt. Yes, my timing belt did slip slightly (three teeth on one
cam) After seeing my compression numbers, it appears that I'm one of the
lucky ones to make it out alive. Let's hope you are too. You have all my
best wishes. Think....did you drop anything else in that area? If all you
were doing was swapping turbos and you did it carefully, I feel that
you're likely to be in better condition than you may think. Let's hope so!
Slightly OT: Ugh...well it's 11:00 at night now... and for some odd
reason I feel like working on my car. I moved it into my carport, so it's
more convenient than "commuting" to the street every time I want to work
on it.
Again, good luck man.
Riyan
P.S. if and when you get it together again, let it IDLE... 5+ minutes for
the ECU to adjust. And in your case I'd give it a good 20 minutes! (don't
let your car overheat though) If there's weird stuff bouncing around, it's
better to find it when the car's idling. Less damage to be done then. Also
if it's idling and you're watching the engine w. covers off etc., then it'll be
easier to find than if you're behind the steering listening.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:54:27 -0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Prayer didn't help this time...
> Good luck Tyson, and now you're scaring the crap outta me. I dropped a
> nut from the lower intake manifold down to what looked like the center
> of the engine block. I have no idea how to get it out (already tried a
> magnetic pick-up tool AND a mini-clutch type pick-up tool. NADA... And
> I don't know if it'll eventually make it's way to the timing area to
> attack my belt. It looks like it fell into the area where that long
> metal tube that leads from the water pump to the coolant fill spout
is.
I've had nuts and bolts fall into that area before. The best way that
I found to get them out was to wrap duct tape around the end of a small
pry bar (or screw driver) with the sticky part out. Then use that to
get the bolt/nut/whatever out. You may have to press hard against whatever
you dropped to get good contact with the tape.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 01:05:31 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Pressure test?
What is the procedure for pressure testing the intake system? I have a
little pressure/Vac pump but what do you do to do that? I would assume
remove the air filter and somehow plug that hole....
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 23:56:00 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU parts diagram
I repair them here in NZ It's worth 2 hours chargeout to do the job
properly.
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 13:52:30 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU parts diagram
I'm looking much more into a schematic diagram of our ECU's ... this would
definitely solve some major questions !!
At 23:56 06.11.2002 +1300, Steve Cooper wrote:
>I repair them here in
NZ It's worth 2 hours chargeout to do the job
>properly.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#990
***************************************