Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, November 4
2002 Volume 01 : Number 989
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 17:43:31 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tein Report
We still have the driver in the equation --- I'll never be as fast [ daring
] as I was when I was 22. We need to hire a driver and have him test a
bunch if different configurations. Schumacher should have some time off in
the next few months, maybe we could all chip in all the money we own and
get him over here for a day.
Jim Berry
Guess we'll never know until we get a whole bunch of 3000GTs on the
same track at the same time and compare lap times v hardware.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 17:53:04 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Dead engine, it jumped out of timing !!!!
Get the CD manual for our cars. That is the #1 thing. You can find a link
to it on
www.stealth316.com Once
you have it, look in there how to check the timing belt. There are marks
on your valve covers that need to line up with the marks on the cams and your
crank. By looking at what lines up you can tell what got damaged. Timing
belts can just skip and not tare. That is usually the problem with the
tensioner.
So figure out if you have a timing problem. If you do, figure out how bad
it is, then go from there.
Only source for valves I know of is dealer but if you need to do pistons
too (and you might as well if you are down there) get weisco, I know some
people whom use em and they are sweet. Weisco pistons are also designed so
that if the timing belt ever snaps or skips again, it wont hurt anything.
They have more clearance for the valves. If you want the Weisco pistons, talk to
me, I can get em.
Far as doing the work yourself, that I would not advice. I always advocate
for doing your own work, but in this case you will have to buy a ton of
special tools to seed the rings on the pistons, to put in the valves and a
shop has to do valve seating anyway... You can cut down on the labor costs
by pulling the engine yourself and taking off the heads. You will save a
ton that way because its time consuming and also once you pull the heads a
shop cant feed you as much BS.
hope that helps.
Tyson
------------------------------
At 05:43 PM 11/3/02 -0800, fastmax wrote:
>We still have the driver
in the equation --- I'll never be as fast
> [ daring ] as I was >when I
was 22.
I agree.
I am a whole lot faster on pavement than I ever was, mostly
thanks to instruction. It helps that a VR4 is a better car than most of
what's on the track, but it's the seat time and instruction that makes me
faster.
Alas, I am a whole lot slower on gravel than I was at 27. Even with an AWD
turbo Talon, I can't drive as fast as I did with a stock engine 72 Datsun
510 back in the 1970s. Somehow, I don't think seat time will help here. I
just can't bring myself to throw it sideways on gravel at 80-100 mph like
I did 30 years ago.
Therefore, I'm am going to stick with the ROWG's sport of open tracking.
I'm as fast as the other ROWGs. I don't know what I'm going to do when the
young tigers come out.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 22:48:34 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: Fw:
Team3S: Rear turbo!!
>One of the bolts on the heatshield took me 1.5 hours to remove. After I
>got it lose with a wrench I discovered that there was not enough angle
>of movement for me to loosen it with the wrench. I ended up using the
>tips of my fingernails on two fingers to turn the damn thing about 1/12
>turn at a time.
This is where the Craftsman wrench would have helped.
>I guess here is what I am getting at... What would be so wrong if I
>left those damn heat shields off? There is nothing that I see that's
>super important above them... The hood has a nice metal plate under it
>for heat protection and I hope to one day get some scoops in the hood
>for cooling anyway.
Even if nothing melts or burns down from the heat, you will be heating the
underhood way too much. You will be robbing your engine of power, if that
is important to you. Even with the heat shields and all, I still managed to
melt the plastic electric insulation of my aftermarket alarm system, which
was attached to the upper part of the firewall.
>Anyhow, I got 2 bolts left (I think) holding the turbo to the header. I
>got the O2 housing and rear pre-cat lose but it does not want to come
>out. Left it in there till tomorrow, not sure if it pulls out the top
>or slides out the bottom... Gonna have to mess with it tomorrow. Cant
>wait to rip the damn thing out...
Hehe... I hope you had a fun day today. The instructions say to slide the
pre-cat to the side and drop it down to remove the turbo. That assumes that
you do not need to take the pre-cat off the car to swap the rear turbo. But
I managed on my car to twist and turn it and remove it through the bottom.
CAUTION: I am not recommending it since the clearances are so tight that
you may not be able to install it back if you do not install it EXACTLY the
way you removed it. The only reason why you may want to take it off the car
is to gut it without having to be under the car during the process, or to
replace it with an aftermarket pre-cat eliminator. Good luck!
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 22:57:35 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: overheating?
I had exactly that and I posted about this phenomenon some time in July. I
think it is normal. But I replaced my coolant with Evans NPG+ and a
low-pressure coolant cap and have not had a problem ever since.
Philip
At 12:22 11/3/2002, Bill vp wrote:
>Well, according to the temp.
gauge on the car ('91 r/t tt), it's not
>overheating at all ... it never
goes over 40% (up, from the bottom) or
>so. However, after driving it, I
can hear a gurgling noise coming from
>the coolant cap (not the overflow
obviously) ... if I take off the
>coolant cap, it sprays out some over
cycles. I mean some coolant will
>come out, then there'll be a
pause, then I guess the coolant comes back
>by again, and some more comes
out, etc. Of course initially more comes
>out, then less and less
each time. If the coolant is this hot,
>wouldn't the gauge go
up?
>
>Like I wrote, I can hear it when I get out of the car, so the
gurgling
>is pretty loud. I don't have a fmic or anything that
would decrease
>stock cooling abilities. I recently flushed the
coolant and refilled
>it, and that did not help any. It does this
even if I've not driven it
>hard the last 5 miles or so (I usually notice
it when coming home off
>the highway).
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 20:02:03 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tein Report
> At 05:43 PM 11/3/02 -0800, fastmax wrote:
> We still have the
driver in the equation --- I'll never be as fast
> [ daring ] as I was
>when I was 22.
>
> I agree.
> I am a whole lot faster on
pavement than I ever was, mostly thanks to
> instruction. It helps that a
VR4 is a >better car than most
> of what's on the track, but it's the
seat time and instruction that
> makes me faster.
> Therefore, I'm am going to stick with the ROWG's sport of open
> tracking. I'm as fast as the other ROWGs. > I don't know what
I'm
> going to do when the young tigers come out.
Hell, that's easy --- claim engine trouble or tell them a boost controller
line came off like I did. In your case overheating is always a good ploy.
Even at the professional levels the drivers always have a good excuse ---
Hmmm, you and I are good with words maybe a web site ---
Excuses.com. We could make a buck or two out of it.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
What you are describing is within the range or normal operation for your
coolant system. When the system gets to operating temperature around
200 deg F, it is under pressure. The pressure can build up past 15
psi. At 15 psi the radiator cap's valve opens and allows some of the
pressure to release into the overflow tank. If you open the radiator
cap when the engine is at operating temperature, there will be pressure in
the cooling system and it will spray coolant out. That is why there
is a warning on the radiator cap that says not to do that! When you shut
off the engine and the coolant cools down, pressure is reduced. This
creates a vacuum and that pulls coolant from the overflow tank back into
the engine. That is why there is a warning light on our cars that
tells you when the overflow tank is low. If the tank goes empty, then air
is pulled into the cooling system, which degrades the capacity and can do
very bad things to your cooling system. The gurgling sound is the
coolant moving either to or from the overflow tank.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 23:36:53 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tein Report
Your absolutely right about the ride. Unforgiving is the word.
However, I did dial down to the lowest dampening setting for the
street
all around with out the bouncing you mention. What height did
you set
the fronts and rears? Originally I had set them 3/4" front 1"
rear.
Moved up to 1" front and 1 3/8 rear. Ride improved.
Tein suggests
much higher. Ride would probably improve even
more.
You didn't change anything else ......... wheels/tires, alignment
settings, engine ......... and your times dropped by 4 seconds. Very
interesting. I know the handling improved tremendously with mine
but
can't attribute that just to the Teins ...... I did lowering, sway bars,
wheels and tires at the same time. Dramatic improvement, but I'm sure
each had something to do with it. It's stick is almost scary
now.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 21:59:46 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: wide
band O2
I broke down and got in on the FJO wideband O2 group buy and being
financially challenged can only afford one --- the question is of course
where to mount the sensor. I would assume welding in two bungs, one in
each bank would be proper, that way I can move it from bank to bank, however,
what would it's preferred semi-permanent location.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 23:07:09 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cracked Wheel
From: "Danno" <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
>
Looking for a little advice. Just switched over to my winter wheels
(old
set of stock chromies) only to find a pretty significant air leak in the
front left tire. Took it to Discount Tire only to have them tell me
the wheel was cracked on the inside bead. When I got there to look
at it, sure enough there was a small crack, starting at the inside edge of the
rim and extending down the bead about 2-3 cm in length. At most the
crack is 0.5 mm at its widest, but clearly enough to prevent the tire from
sealing.
> Here's the question: is this rim trash, or can it be
brazed or welded
> and reused for normal daily driving?
> What say
ye, oh wise cognizant?
> Thanks!
> - Dan
> '95 VR4
-
------------------------------------------
In all likelihood, the wheel *is* repairable. You'd be amazed what a
professional wheel-repair shop can do with a wheel that has much more
damage than a simple crack... (Trust someone who has trashed $2k+
worth of wheels at the track in the last 2 years alone). You can use the
Team3S Search Page to read about our experiences with repairing wheels,
but you'll probably do just as well by doing a Google search and entering
"wheel +repair"; then find the repair outfits in your area. For
example, if you're in New England, a recommended shop is
www.precisionwheelservice.com.
Precision will weld the wheels and bring them back to spec, refinished, and in
perfect round for about $100. Many other shops are out there, and
most are in the $100-$150 (per
wheel) range. They charge $15-$25 extra
if they have to remove your tires first. Turnaround time is usually
48 hours or less, especially locally.
Suggestion: Find a shop in your area to
bring in your (unmounted) wheel(s)...
That's the view from one 'cogniscento'... ;-)
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 06:59:13 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
wideband O2 sensor
Jim:
I am replacing my stock front O2 sensor with the FJO, and that is
what will go to the FJO sensor display and to the AEM computer I will
install. If using the stock computer/piggyback computers still, I
personally would first just use the stock front O2 sensor bung for the FJO
sensor; and let the stock computer go without the front sensor. You
will get a "check engine" light, but the car runs fine...computer simply
relies on the rear sensor for its tuning/mixture dithering dance. My
front sensor isn't working NOW with stock computer because the connector fell
onto piping and melted so is giving me the check engine light.
However, the idle is also giving some "rev-rev-rev" activity...so computer
may be trying to clear out the front sensor. I don't know whether there is
a close enough correlation between the output of stock sensor voltage and the
FJO to say whether you could send its output to both the gauge and the
computer; sure could try it though, and I suspect the FJO readout and the
computer's impedance (?) is high enough that hooking them both up won't
appreciably change the readings. Many of us have de facto decided it IS ok
to hook up a gauge along with the computer, since that is exactly what an
ARCII AF gauge, or Jumptronix gauge do already... You can use the stock
bungs front and rear to get bank-to-bank comparisons. Will be interesting
to see what the differences really might BE. Call Horsepowerfreaks and see
what they say about it. Jack T.
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net> [snips]
Sent: Sunday,
November 03, 2002
> I got FJO wideband O2 sensor, and can only afford
one. Question is
> where to mount sensor. I assume welding in two
bungs, one in each bank
> would be proper, so I can move it from bank to
bank. What would its
> preferred semi-permanent location
be?
> Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 07:10:18 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tein Report
I hear you...in my 94 I'm keeping my stock adjustable shocks, and don't
plan on getting aftermarket shocks because I like the in-cockpit
adjustability too much on Wisconsin's sometimes bumpy/crappy roads.
I have Ground Control (550 front/375 rear) springs and the ride is pretty
much stiffer than stock but not so stiff that with stock dampers springs
go "BOUNCY-Bouncy-bouncy". I wish somebody could find a place to take our
STOCK ADJUSTABLE shocks, open them up and notch the valving one or 2 steps
firmer...ideally for me, keep soft where it is but increase medium and
high proportionately moderately to alot more. JT
From: "Roger Ludwig" <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
> Why can't we
have it all?
> If only we could find a system that at the flip of
a
> switch gives us a comfy cruiser ride and at another
> flip gives
us the track hound.... I want both!!
> Roger L F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 08:35:11 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 94 octane
Well here in the Northeast (CT, MA, NH, VT,) Sunoco 94 is relatively
prevalent.... I guess maybe their is bonus to freezing my arse off
for 4.5 months a year.....
Russ F
CT
93 VR4 (still in the O.R.)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:alex@kolosy.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 5:40 PM
Subject:
Team3S: 94 octane
Since this is the first such place I saw, I'll assume it's not
too
frequent: For those of you in the east lansing/lansing (mi) area, there's
a Sunoco that sells 94 octane gas (intersection of jolly and Okemos
rds)
Alex.
A well fed '95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 08:43:43 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dead engine, it jumped out of timing !!!!
I have to whole heartedly agree here, A friend and I tore the engine,
tranny, and transfer case out of my car in a weekend. Of course buy
stock in ZIPLOC bags, masking tape, and permanent markers. You
really have no idea how many nuts, bolts, etc, there really are until you
start disassembling things.
Also it helps to take pictures (I went through more Polaroid film rolls
than I can count, never mind all the pics that are on my buddies digi cam)
so that way you can see how things used to look.
As far as doing the work yourself, that I would not advice. I always
advocate for doing your own work, but in this case you will have to buy a
ton of special tools to seed the rings on the pistons, to put in the
valves and a shop has to do valve seating anyway... You can cut down on
the labor costs by pulling the engine yourself and taking off the
heads. You will save a ton that way because its time consuming and also
once you pull the heads a shop cant feed you as much BS.
hope that helps.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 09:47:53 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
CAPS Question
I have a 91 Stealth TT. I'm trying to use the CAPS program for part
numbers for various items. I note that some give two part numbers,
and specify "From 9004.1 to 9205.3" for one and "9206.1 to 9405.3" for
others. I suspect those are date codes. But what to the number stand
for? Also, for the same part, Partznet.com only returns one part
number. For example, I thought I had the plug wires down to
MD193980, but then came up with a second part number using CAPS at
MD156560. What change could possibly have been made to plug
wires? I get two different part numbers for the radiator hoses and
the throttle-body gasket as well. Are the parts interchangeable?
------------------------------
along the same vein - it may be corroded battery cables - they corrode on
the inside on both ends.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Omar Malik
[mailto:ojm@iname.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 11:23 PM
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odd hesitation/Lights Flicker -- Need Advice
Sounds a lot like a loose battery connection. Check the terminals and clean
off any corrosion on the terminals and battery lugs with a battery
brush.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
It is incredibly difficult to sort out whether improvements in lap times
result from driver performance or equipment modifications.
I'll never be as fast as I was when I was 22, and I won't be off the
pavement as much either. (grin)
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 15:31:28 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What's "normal" for oil pressure?
"docradley" and "ohiospyderman" post some of their measurements on
3si:
Summary:
~100 psi at cold start
~20 psi at warm
idle
~65 psi at warm high RPM
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 29, 2002 3:41 PM
Subject: Team3S: What's "normal" for oil
pressure?
Anyone know for a VR-4? Or just for 4-stroke, internal combustion,
wet-sump, engines in general?
In case anyone is interested, here's what I see in my VR-4 with my
newly-installed real (as opposed to the stock POS) oil pressure
gauge:
Idle, Immediately after Startup: 55psi
3000RPM unloaded, Cold Engine:
140+psi (pegged)
2000-4000RPM loaded, Hot Engine: 55-85psi
Idle, Hot
Engine: 20-23psi (seems low)
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with Mobil1 5w30 in 50F weather
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 07:38:48 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
CAPS Question
The numbers are indeed dates that corresponds to a build date --- 9004.1 is
week 1 April 1990. The only confusion on the last digit is the fact they
never use a 4 for the forth week only 1,2,3 maybe they don't allow design
changes at the end of month.
Many times in the CAPS you'll find multiple part numbers for the
same
year --- usually a new number supercedes the old number. In the case of plug
wires, you're right, there is no difference between the model years but
even minor configuration changes require new part numbers ---
manufacturing hates new part numbers, it screws up all levels of drawings.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Sent: Monday,
November 04, 2002 6:47 AM
Subject: Team3S: CAPS Question
> I have a 91 Stealth TT. I'm trying to use the CAPS program for
part
> numbers for various items. I note that some give two part
numbers,
> and specify "From 9004.1 to 9205.3" for one and "9206.1 to
9405.3" for
> others. I suspect those are date codes. But
what to the number stand
> for? Also, for the same part,
Partznet.com only returns one part
> number. For example, I thought
I had the plug wires down to MD193980,
> but then came up with a second
part number using CAPS at MD156560.
> What change could possibly
have been made to plug wires? I get two
> different part numbers
for the radiator hoses and the throttle-body
> gasket as well. Are
the parts interchangeable?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 15:58:52 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CAPS Question
>> ... what to the number stand for?
Example 9206.1 is a
"manufactured" date (I don't know if this a start or
completion date).
92
= year, 1992
06 = month, June
1 = the first third of the month, about 10
days (who knows why?) 2 = 2nd third of the month 3 = last third of the
month
Model year production starts with cars having a date of 6.1 of the previous
year. So 1993 model year cars started with dates of 9206.1. 1994 cars start
with dates of 9306.1. You get the idea.
CAPS shows all (or nearly all) parts for our cars over the years. Many
parts
(or part numbers) have been be superceded or replaced (noted by "Repl
P/No" in
CAPS). These should be direct replacements. There may or may not
have been any
recognizable change in the part itself. Note that some parts
really are
different between years and cannot be interchanged. Dealers and
non-OEM stores
usually just mention the currently-available part number
(whether it is
correct for your particular year and model or not - always
double check).
I have a 91 Stealth TT. I'm trying to use the CAPS program for part
numbers for various items. I note that some give two part numbers,
and specify "From 9004.1 to 9205.3" for one and "9206.1 to 9405.3" for
others. I suspect those are date codes. But what to the number stand
for? Also, for the same part, Partznet.com only returns one part
number. For example, I thought I had the plug wires down to
MD193980, but then came up with a second part number using CAPS at
MD156560. What change could possibly have been made to plug
wires? I get two different part numbers for the radiator hoses and
the throttle-body gasket as well. Are the parts interchangeable?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 09:42:56 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: wideband O2 sensor
If you're thinking about hooking up the output of the FJO into the stock
computer, don't. The output voltages of the WB02 units aren't even
in the same ballpark as the stock O2 sensors. The readings are over
a range of 3v, and the voltage to mixture orientation is opposite. That
is, stock O2 read high voltages when rich, but WB reads low voltages when
rich.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 12:53:18 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help identify a part.
> Car: '92 VR4 Cali (same as the 2nd gen EGR setup)
>
>
Location:
> Right next to the coolant reservoir. On the front driver side
of the
> reservoir. NOT the big canister under it! Its a small part,
circular
> in shape, little bigger than a golf ball. Has 2 small vacuum
lines
> coming out of the top and 2 larger
> (air?) lines one
coming out the side, another out
> the bottom.
That's your [fuel vapor] evaporative purge valve. You can see where
all the lines in section 13A of your FSM. It is plumbed into some of
the same lines that feed the EGR valve/solenoid, but is not directly
related to EGR.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 12:55:20 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: wide band O2
> the question is of course where to mount the sensor.
> I
would assume welding in two bungs, one in each bank
> would be proper,
that way I can move it from bank to
> bank, however, what would it's
preferred semi-permanent
> location.
I have both of my aftermarket O2 sensors installed in my downpipe right
now. I have a federal spec car (2 oxygen sensors instead of 4), so I just
put my aftermarket sensors where the additional 2 sensors go in the
Cali-spec cars
- - immediately after each precat. You can see pictures
of the bungs (no sensors in these pics) here:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/DPipeEng/page1.html
Of course, I think there's something wrong with my precats because there's
no appreciable difference in A/F readings between the stock sensors before
the precats and my aftermarket ones after the precats ;-) If your
precats aren't broken, then you probably can't mount your WB sensor after
the precats.
I believe Brian Geddes is planning to try putting the WB sensor immediately
after the "Y" in the downpipe to read both banks simultaneously.
With that uber-heater circuit on the WB sensor, the lower EGTs back there
might not be an issue.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 18:38:23 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tein Report
With respect to driver improvements, the best comparison we can make is the
same driver on the same track in the same season, as was the case for
me. I will admit that I had two or three track events between
comparisons. Otherwise, all else remained the same including the BFG GForce
KD's that were starting to chunk after a hot weekend at Gingerman.
It stands to note that I dropped the car approx. 1 1/2 inches all around
and re-aligned from 1 1/2 front, 1 degree rear to 2+ degrees front, 2
degrees rear neg. camber. Additionally, it's possible that the state of my
struts was worse than I realized. After removing, I noticed that one
of the fronts had disgorged an ounce or two of oil onto the garage
floor. What I'm sure of is the profound feeling of control,
especially in right-left transitions that the car has gained. In one
particular right to off-camber left, I'm not exaggerating when I say the
car would have instantly spun at the speed I was running on the second
day. As far as the young tigers go, my own experience has been the
seasoned veterans in the right car are almost always faster.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
------------------------------
Any1 know of someplace cheaper then dynamic racings 900 dollar borla
exhaust
list price for an N/A?
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 19:09:20 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Hey Guys,
I just my 93 VR4 on Saturday. Can
someone explain a few items for me?
When I push the Active exhaust button it will only go into TOUR mode.
When I try to press it downward into the SPORT mode it doesn't go.
Should it? When i put in in tour mode I hear a little motor run for a few
seconds but I can't really tell any difference in exhaust note.
Does my stock (Mitsu) radio with 6 CD changer in trunk play burned CD's
from my PC?
Do we have to use premium fuel?
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 18:19:16 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Congratulations on the purchase.
The active exhaust has a habit of getting stuck due to rust and then the
cable breaks that opens and closes the little door.
Most of us spend $500.00 or so and get an after market one.
Don't know about the CD player
You need Premium fuel. Do not use low grade fuel.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 20:59:13 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Burned cds work just fine...
Alex
------------------------------
> As far as the young tigers go, my own experience has been
>the
seasoned veterans in the right car are almost always
faster.
>
>DaveT/92TT
There's a certain amount of truth there. Way back when, I could not believe
that a young punk kid in a stock Dodge Colt was several seconds faster
than me on pro rally stages. This kid had no experience to speak of, but
there he was, beating old (27) experienced me in my prepared car. Turns
out he was flying blind crests. If you fly a blind crest instead of tapping the
brakes at the crest to bring the lights down so you can see which way the
road goes, you pick up 1 or 2 seconds per crest, or a huge amount on a
single stage. Alas, he flew one crest too many, the road turned under him,
and that was the end of his rally career.
Young drivers have faster reflexes and more guts, but us old shits have
flown our blind crests and learned our lessons.
Rich/slow old poop.
------------------------------
>When I push the Active exhaust button it will only go into TOUR
mode.
>When I try to press it downward into the SPORT mode it
doesn't go.
>Should it? When i put in in tour mode I hear a little
motor run for a
>few seconds but I can't really tell any difference in
exhaust note.
Probably stuck. Strangely enough, you get more flow in Tour mode, because
it's only coming out one side. If you hit Sport mode, the little motor
puts a baffle in the way and diverts some exhaust to the right side.
Sport, apparently, means Ricer not Racer. Go to
http://www.vr4stealth.com/ then
repair section, then undercarriage, then active exhaust, for instructions on how
to fix it.
Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 21:45:15 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tein Report
At 21:11 11/4/2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>Turns out he was flying blind crests. If you fly a blind crest
instead of
>tapping the brakes at the crest to bring the lights down so
you can see
>which way the road goes, you pick up 1 or 2 seconds per
crest, or a huge
>amount on a single stage. Alas, he flew one crest too
many, the road
>turned under him, and that was the end of his rally
career.
What is "flying blind crests"? Is it just as effective as running red
lights?
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 22:31:53 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Active
exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Actually, quite the opposite.. take a look at the Stealth Tech manual in
the active exhaust on stealth316.com and you will see that tour mode is
much more restrictive then sport. In tour mode the plate closes and sends
all gases through an almost 1 1/2 inch pipe into a baffled section of the
muffler. Sport mode, the plate opens, and gases pass through 2 straight pipes
going through the muffler with no baffles blocking it.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 22:53:55 -0500
From: Vinny <
vinman3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Thanks for the info, but i think my problem is that I can't put the switch
in SPORT mode. Should I see a light? I see a light for
the sport mode suspension but not exhaust.
Any help?
Thanks
Vinny
------------------------------
>What is "flying blind crests"? Is it just as effective as running red
>lights?
>
>Philip
Yes. Same principle.
On a pro rally, you race down roads through the forest you've never seen
before. Nowadays the candy a** drivers have pace notes that describe the
road (flat left over crest, K right, stuff like that). In the old days, we
drove the road blind. Pace notes were forbidden, as was practicing.
So here you are, running 80 mph down a gravel road in the forest at night.
Up looms a blind crest in the road. Your decision: which way does the road
go over the crest? Left, right, or straight?
If you are brave and stupid, you don't lift: You "fly" the crest at 80 mph,
getting airborne for a few seconds, and trusting that the road goes
straight. If you are lucky, it does go straight. Most do.
If you are cautious, you lift just before the crest and tap the brakes to
bring the front end down as you fly over. This brings the lights down, so
you can see which way the road goes. You don't want to get much air over
the crest, because you can't turn in the air.
Not lifting gains you several seconds on each crest -- the difference in
going flat at 80 v slowing to 65 or so and then catching back up to 80 in
a 90 hp Datsun 510. Multiply that by a dozen or more blind crests, and you
can pick up 30 seconds in a stage by not lifting.
Really good rally drivers learn to "read the road." As you approach the
crest, you look beyond. If your lights pick out trees over the crest, the
road probably turns one way or another. If so, you go over the crest with
the car slightly sideways, so you can turn left or right easily.
If you don't see trees, look for telephone or power lines. If you can see
the power lines going straight, the road probably goes straight. Maybe.
The last time I flew a blind crest was in the strip mines of southern
Ohio. I didn't see trees and I read the power lines going straight. They
did, too. Straight across the strip mine. Alas, the road turned, and we
plunged down an embankment. They used to call that turn "Merritt's
Gulch."
In Sweden, on the Thousand Lakes rally, there is a similar crest. From the
driver's POV, it looks straight. In the daytime, you can see the road on
the other side of the crest going straight. Alas, over the crest the road
turns sharp right to go around a pond, and it resumes on the other side.
Thousands of Swedes gather there in hopes that some driver will fly the crest at
100mph+ and land in the pond. At least one does on every rally. But what
the spectators are really wanting is for the driver to hit the brakes
whilst flying through the air. When that happens, the front wheels stop
dead, and the car pivots around the wheels, essentially doing a front flip (see
above, tapping the brakes at the crest. It has something to do with
conservation of angular momentum).
That's another lesson us old timers learn very quickly: if you see
spectators in the forest at 3:00 am in Hiawatha National Forest in the
Upper Peninsula of Michigan in November, there is something VERY BAD
lurking there: a vicious turn, a tree stump, a pond, a big hole, or
something evil that will jump out of the forest and bite your car. Smart
people slow down. Other people (ahem) get motivated by the spectators and
go faster.
Once, down in Alabama on the Rallye du Noir...nah, some other time, over a
brew. You wouldn't believe me anyway. I did win "Fastest Through the
Forest" on that rally, though. And it involved flying a blind crest.
*sigh* Nostalgia just isn't what it used to be.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 20:06:48 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
update on my 60k; mostly success
So I finally got the time to do it today. I ended up using the pocket ruler
with scale that I bought from Sears to measure rod protrusion. The
mini-caliper that I bought started at 5mm inside diameter so it wouldn't
do me any good. The ruler wasn't the best way. I'd definitely recommend
the digital caliper that was discussed earlier. However, having the ruler did
help significantly. The slide on the ruler was detachable and had a length
of exactly 5mm. The rod protrusion spec is 3.8 to 4.5mm. So what I did
was... I made sure the protrusion was smaller than the detachable slide
and larger than 3mm. Then I tried to put the pin back in. The pin didn't go in
*easily*, but I sensed that if I pushed harder, I would be able to get it
mostly in. In my book, that means success. The protrusion may have been
slightly under spec (too short), but of course like mentioned before in
the thread, the belt will stretch, so I'm not really that concerned.
Now, with the protrusion out of the way, I faced another problem (should've
checked this before). Although all of the cams were on perfect timing, the
crank was between 3/4 (three quarters) tooth and 1 tooth retarded. I
followed the instructions in the shop manual (including retarding of the
crank by 1 tooth) and it still ended up off. I know why--please msg me off the
list if you're curious since it's a long explanation. Oh, great. Time to
re-do everything. And re-do it I did. I moved the timing where it should
be, and now the timing is between TDC and 1/4 (one quarter) tooth advanced
on the crank. I'd definitely take the new case any day since I'm closer now. On
this note, it appears that timing will always slightly off in 3S cars. Now
I don't think 1/4 tooth is enough to mean anything...not enough to even
qualify as "slightly off", but who knows. There ain't any way to fix it
either, so I'll live with it. Unless of course any of you think I should
be worried, please let me know.
and the verdict...
I finally felt that I could put the lower timing cover back on. It was
getting dark so I had to stop after that.
Admins: let me know how I can be of assistance with the "Q&A"
section.
Thanks a lot for everything all,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
...slowly finding its way back together
:)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 20:23:36 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
possible electrical damage?
After I was done working today, I had to jump start a car. Since the dead
car was very close to turning over, I didn't need the live car (stealth)
to be running in order to start the dead car (my van). When I jump started
the van, the stealth had its negative battery terminal disconnected. After
I was done, I unhooked the cables from the van. But on the way back to the
stealth I tripped and the jumper cables shorted for about 2 whole seconds.
It was wild... the cables, once shorted, STUCK together and I had to pull
very hard to get them off. Anyway, is there a chance that I caused any
damage to the stealth's electrical system? Going over the details again, the
stealth's battery shorted when the negative terminal was disconnected, but
the positive terminal was still connected when it happened.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
hope i didn't fry anything
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 20:52:16 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wideband O2 sensor
Thanks all for the suggestions --- for my first attempt I'll go with the
stock location since I still have the stock downpipe with gutted precats.
I plan on trying to
get the output of the wideband O2 displayed as an input
on the TMO data logger. It will only display as a voltage but that's OK
for now. I'll post the procedure if I get it to work as described.
Andrew Spargo currently of the UAE has no O2 sensors or cats in his UAE
spec car which runs on leaded gas --- any ideas as to how that feat
is accomplished.
Without the closed loop operation available does the ECU
just use a default map ??? Does it use that map forever of does it need a
corrected signal eventually to get it to run properly.
Jim Berry
=======================================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 21:07:02 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: rod
oil squirters
Jack [or anybody with additional information ]
In a thread about forged rods on the 3SI.org board you made the
following statement.
"They are very stout rods stock, and since most/all aftermarket rods
lose the oil squirter on the rod beam aimed at the bottom of the piston,
there is actually an advantage --- "
When I was looking at upgrading my rods [ I went with Pauter ] I looked at
the rod squirter and it seems it's pointed at the cylinder wall rather
than the piston in addition I could not find any information on it. The
regular
piston squirters in the block are described in the TIM but nothing
is said
about the rod squirter. Do you have any information on the rod
squirter ???
Jim
Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 00:17:51 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum
<
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU advice (more specific)
Hi Everyone,
Thank you so much to everyone who has helped me so far with my car.
Here's the
deal - I had my car retrieved from Mitsu (who wanted to charge
$1400 to
refurbish my ECU and totally readjust the timing belt-everything
but replace
the actual belt) and I removed the ECU to find, low and behold,
a smelly
circuit board with a leaky capacitor. In retrospect I noticed
a smell a few
days before my car stopped but did not realize it was the
ECU. The leaky
capacitor is the tallest one - the 47uF one. It
also leaked onto a really
small capacitor just adjacent to it (between the
47uF and the plug
connections). How bad does the damage sound?
The technomotive website (suggested yesterday) referenced a place in Tampa
(foreignecurepair.com)that can refurbish an ECU for $295 or sell a
refurbished
one for $375. Does it sound like my ECU is beyond local
repair by an
electrician (i.e. - a TV repair shop) or should I use their
service? If a TV
repair place is capable, should they have the
capacitors I need on hand or do I
need to order them and bring them with
me?
Thank you so much.
Michael (Hopeful in Atlanta)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 22:39:58 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active exhaust and Radio question from newbie
Mine only lit up in the tour mode. I don't remember if the sport mode
light burns out or if it is just not there. If you hear the little
motor, then the switch is working fine. Regarding the suspension, your
observation is also correct.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 22:04:15 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ECU advice (more specific)
I'd try replacing the capacitors first --- it's cheap, a few bucks for
capacitors and another $30 or so for labor. Damage can be done to the
etched circuits on the board --- they get corroded but they can be
repaired also.
Why did the dealer think the timing belt needed adjusting.
Jim Berry
=================================================
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 03:22:46 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECU advice (more specific)
Dude, the TV repair shop method will cost you $20 at the most. Give it a
shot. I would give it a 50-50% of working. If not, you are out $20, better
than $1400 or even $375.
Tyson
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#989
***************************************