Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Sunday, November 3 2002   Volume 01 : Number 988
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 11:21:08 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Official KYB response II
 
Why would you put Eibachs on Teins?   Teins already can lower the car as
much or more than Eibachs.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
fastmax wrote:
 
>--- Eibach seems to have everything from 200# to 2000#. Eibach would
>probably fit on the Tein or JIC if necessary.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 11:24:15 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suspension/Steering Issues
 
If you've never replaced struts ......... or replaced 50K or more miles
ago, that's probably it.  Time to do it and think of upgrading.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 11:54:26 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Borla Exhaust drone?
 
I had placed a post on the board quite a while ago about my experiences
with Borla on two VR4s ....... one with the Stillen dp and the other
with a Stillen then ATR (w/ all cats).   Both VR4s with the Borlas and
Stillens were loud ........ w/ the droning between 2500-3000.   This was
not exotic at all, but rather higher pitched,  loud and tiring on long
trips.  On the second VR4 (my current 97) I started with the
Borla/Stillen combo.  But the lack of cats caused a lot of 'hunting' and
of course the CEL to be on all the time.  Same sound as the 94.  Well,
this is a daily driver, PA does have emission testing, I didn't like the
sound, didn't like the way OBDII was handling things without the cats.
 So I decided to bite the bullet an try an ATR with all the cats in
place (including the high flow cat for the ATR).  What a difference.  Of
course, the engine management is back now.  I don't think I gave up that
much in performance.  And I love the sound ......... lower, throatier
....... closer to the classy sound you'd expect from these great cars.
 As I said in the last post sounds racy not ricey.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
BTW .......... anyone want to buy a Stillen dp ......... slightly used?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 12:10:59 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Borla Exhaust drone?
 
Your points on the Borla are well taken.  Interesting comments on cats,
however.  When you say they are a scam, do you mean they are ineffective
for emissions, heavy, or just rob performance?
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 12:16:25 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Borla Exhaust drone?
 
Roger Gerl wrote:
 
> At 21:57 31.10.2002 -0500, Vinny wrote:
>
>> Hey Guys,
>>     I am interested in a Exhaust upgrade from stock.  I want the
>> Borla but
>> someone said it was loud.
>> 1) Is it really?
>
> Not really
 
That depends on whether or not the cats are in place ...........
considerably louder without cats.   However, ultimately ........ 'loud
is in the ears of the beholder'!!
 
Try to listen to a set-up your considering ....... before you buy.
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 11:14:43 -0800
From: Michael Pliska <mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject: Team3S: Front License Plate Bracket
 
Does anyone have photos of a front license plate bracket for a 1991 VR-4?  Or better yet, does anyone have one for sale?  I recently moved back to Oregon, and my VR-4 never had a front plate on it.  Looking at the nose, I don't see any spot to readily mount one.
 
Please copy my e-mail address (not just the list address) on replies, as I get the digest version of the mailing list.
 
Thanks and regards,
Michael Pliska
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 11:20:39 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Official KYB response II
 
Lowering has nothing to do with spring choices --- the lowering is done by changing the height of the spring perches regardless of spring.
 
There are them of us folk who want handling chrematistics other than what Tein think we need. When I last checked [ well over a year ago ] Tein only had limited choices for spring rates while Eibach has an [ almost ] unlimited choice of rates.
 
        Jim Berry ==================================================
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 11:33:15 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front License Plate Bracket
 
Have you been stopped for no front plate or are you anticipating being checked. I live in California where front plates are required and have driven for 30 years without a plate and never been stopped for it.
 
CAPS program says ---- MB640887 and MB641001 are required a bracket and a support at about $13 and $30 from Rockville Mitsu.
 
        Jim Berry
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 13:35:43 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cleaning the engine bay?
 
Simple green made my 92's engine compartment paint look really dull and started to make some of the aluminum pieces look corroded. I used half and half in a spray bottle + a tooth brush. I would use a MUCH less concentration next time. Perhaps 10:1 or higher water/sg would be better, but after that, I never wanted to try it again on anything but the garage floor. Castrol makes a wheel cleaner that seems to work really well btw, in a black or purple bottle (purple one is a little harsher).
 
Watch out for the plugs & wires, don't get too much... actually, ANY in the valve covers, as you will have to remove the intake plenum to dry them out in the rear bank. Watch out for coil packs as well, the MAF, and turbo's/manifold that are still too hot to touch (you will crack a manifold if you spray water while it's still hot, been there, done that!).
 
Other than those parts, it's pretty safe to wash with a power washer.
 
Visit www.stealth316.com for more info on how the AWD system is configured, look for the technical manual online.
 
Anyone got a Stealth RT/TT for sale? Wanna trade for a 97 Talon AWD with 23k miles on it? ;)
 
Vinny Singh -
http://www.manualcd.com/ - Service Manuals on CD for your DSM or 3/S! http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 13:36:53 -0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Official KYB response II
 
That's great.  Didn't realize they offered so many rates.  Is there a
page that they list all the different rates for the 3000GT? 
 
Dennis -==- Philly
 
fastmax wrote:
 
>Lowering has nothing to do with spring choices --- the lowering is done
>by changing the height of the spring perches regardless of spring.
>
>There are them of us folk who want handling chrematistics other than
>what Tein think we need. When I last checked [ well over a year ago ]
>Tein only had limited choices for spring rates while Eibach has an [
>almost ] unlimited choice of rates.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 11:45:40 -0800
From: Michael Pliska <mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front License Plate Bracket
 
Jim,
Thanks for the info.  I was stopped in my Typhoon, but it just as well could've been the VR-4.  Here in Portland, they are cracking down on front plates, since they are using photo radar.  Don't get me on my soapbox about that one ;-)
 
I'll call & order the parts on Monday, unless someone has a used set for cheap.
 
Thanks and regards,
Michael
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 11:54:13 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Official KYB response II
 
The springs I'm referring to are generic for the coil-over setups --- the springs are 2.5" in diameter and come is several different lengths and dozens of rates. Stock lowering springs are a different animal and are designed for a specific car and specific amount of drop.
 
        Jim Berry ===================================================
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 11:53:35 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front License Plate Bracket
 
In North Cali, from my experience it depends on your age and the looks of your car. Everyone that I'm in touch with that's in their late 20s or 30s doesn't seem to get pulled over for the front license plate issue (it IS the law though). However, younger people seem to get pulled over a lot. Someone that I've got to know recently (he's 23) got pulled over 4+ times for this. Each time they pulled him over, that was the "primary" reason, but they never failed to ask "where are you headed" and "are you headed to the illegal runs" and "we know that's where you're going". Pretty dumb, and pretty funny. It's interesting that the cops have nothing better to do than assume you're going drag racing. And like I said I think the way you display your car has something to do with it as well. If you don't have decals, stickers, low-profile tires or a coffee maker exhaust then they're less likely to pull you over in general.
 
Riyan
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 12:24:27 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Borla Exhaust drone?
 
All of the above.
 
When I gutted cats on my VR4 I felt bad because they were in perfect condition. Not clogged, nice and white with open holes etc. Right around the same time my rear turbo began to fail and leak oil into the intake which concerned me because I had to do emissions that year. All I did was get my car nice and hot by running high RPMs the entire way to the emission station
(8mi) and my car did better with leaky oil and 165k miles than it ever has in the previous 6 years! Cats are a scam!
 
They also heavy as sin. Might as well tie a cinder block to your car and drive around. And yes, they are VERY restrictive.
 
Tyson
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Ninneman [mailto:dninneman@comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Borla Exhaust drone?
 
Your points on the Borla are well taken.  Interesting comments on cats, however.  When you say they are a scam, do you mean they are ineffective for emissions, heavy, or just rob performance?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 12:38:50 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front License Plate Bracket
 
I just finally put my front plate back on last weekend, had it off most of the summer. I live in the Portland area and work in Portland, never had a cop give me a second look.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 14:10:34 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear turbo!!
 
OMG! Talk about a pain in the you know where! Doing a turbo swap on my car and I have just about had it! Is there ANYONE else whom has done this on-car? I don't want/cant pull the motor, not an option. People tell me its doable but I have no instructions at all to work off of. The front turbo was pretty easy. Took about 90 minutes, no sweat. Front turbo (174k on the car) is in perfect shape. Got to the rear turbo to where I could feel the compression wheel, its lose. Bearings shot and its the one that has been leaking oil into my intake.... I got to take it out. HELP!! How do I get that thing out?!
 
Tyson
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:12:46 -0600
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Rear turbo!!
 
Check out this link:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-tsg_v10.htm
 
Tons of great info there.
 
Rich
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 00:38:47 +0000
From: "gareth hannah" <alcoholika_02@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Royal Purple?
 
Anyone here on this list, use Royal Purple Motor Oil!!!?
I was just wondering, and see what yall think about it. My friends dad can
get me 6 quarts whenever i want for 20$. Just seeing if any of yall use it.
And if it is worth the 20$
BTW- its Full Synthetic
Gareth 92' Blk RT/TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 16:58:02 -0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cleaning the engine bay?
 
If you have the money to buy it, get a steam cleaner.  You can buy a small hand held one for small jobs that will work well on your car for $40-$60 or you can buy a high capacity one for big jobs for $200-$400.  Steam cleaning works fast, is good for the environment, leaves no residue and once you have the steamer you never have to buy chemicals to clean again.  They are also good for other household cleaning jobs like the BBQ grill, carpets and your bathroom cleanup.  You can find several steam cleaners at Amazon.com under kitchen and housewares.  If you do buy one,be sure to buy one that heats the water, not one that uses hot water.
 
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:00:21 -0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front License Plate Bracket
 
You might want to put your front plate on if there are any red light cameras in your area.  Cops in Sacramento are ticketing people for not having them now because people are removing them to avoid the red light cameras.
 
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 22:02:06 -0500
From: Danno <palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Cracked Wheel
 
Looking for a little advise.   Just switched over to my winter wheels
(old set of stock chromies) only to find a pretty significant air leak
in the front left tire.  Took it to Discount Tire only to have them tell
me the wheel was cracked on the inside bead.  When I got there to look
at it, sure enough there was a small crack, starting at the inside edge
of the rim and extending down the bead about 2-3 cm in length.  At most
the crack is 0.5 mm at its widest, but clearly enough to prevent the
tire from sealing.
 
Here's the question:  is this rim trash, or can it be brazed or welded
and reused for normal daily driving?
 
What say ye, oh wise cognizant?
 
Thanks!
 
- - Dan
'95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 23:02:26 -0500
From: Aamer <aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject: Team3S: Odd hesitation/Lights Flicker -- Need Advice
 
Hello all:
 
My car has been driving great for the last few years with very few problems. But today I came home and noticed something odd. The first odd thing was that when I took out the keys and opened the door, my headlights didn't automatically turn off like they normally do -- so I had to turn them off myself from the controls. After I saw this, I decided to see if the car was acting weird so I started it. And sure enough, there was something wrong.
I turned the keys and the car would not turn on (the starter wasn't moving at all ... as if the battery was dead). I tried turning the key a few more times and finally the starter kicked in and the car started. But as soon as it started, the RPM's began to drop and the engine almost died. I pushed on the accelerator to keep the engine going. At this same time, I noticed that all the interior lights were flickering on and off. Also, the "beep" sound coming from the car (it was beeping because I had the door open) was changing frequency very dramatically and it was almost as if the car didn't have enough electricity to keep everything going.
 
I turned the car off and started it again. Once again, the RPM's dropped and the car almost died, but I didn't have to push on the accelerator because the engine returned back to a normal idle speed fairly quickly. I turned off the car to look around it and I started the car yet a third time. This time it had no problems starting at all.
 
I'm not sure what's going on because I've never seen this kind of problem before; but I would really like to take any precautions to fix it before it turns into something worse. My car has around 75 thousand miles on it and I did the 60K maintenance on it when it had about 55 thousand miles on it (the spark plugs and the fuel filter were not changed during the 60K maintenance because I changed them when the car had about 45 thousand miles on it).
 
If anyone could give me some advice on what might be going on, I would appreciate it greatly. Thank you.
 
Aamer Abbas
1994 3000GT (DOHC/Naturally Aspirated)
 
aamer@thepentagon.com
fax: (707)982-8817
Raleigh, North Carolina, USA
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 22:34:32 -0600
From: AINut <ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odd hesitation/Lights Flicker -- Need Advice
 
Sounds like the battery is about dead.  Maybe your alternator or alternator belt
is gone, too, not charging the battery.
 
AI Nut
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 00:23:26 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd hesitation/Lights Flicker -- Need Advice
 
Sounds a lot like a loose battery connection. Check the terminals and clean off any corrosion on the terminals and battery lugs with a battery brush.
 
Omar
92 r/t
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 06:40:16 +0000
From: "gareth hannah" <alcoholika_02@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: boost controller for sale!!!
 
greddy profec-b never used or even removed from the box!!! selling it for
325$ let me know if you're interested!!
gareth
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 02:59:58 -0500
From: Aamer <aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odd hesitation/Lights Flicker -- Need Advice
 
Omar, I think you were right on your guess. I checked the battery and I think that there was just not a good connection to the terminal. I don't think the problem is my battery though because it is fairly new and it is a high quality dry cell. Hopefully this should be the end to this problem. Actually, my biggest fear was that the problem would turn out to be our infamous leaky capacitors on the ECU. But I think the issue is now resolved.
 
Thanks for your help everyone.
 
Aamer Abbas
1994 3000GT (DOHC/Naturally Aspirated)
 
aamer@thepentagon.com
fax: (707)982-8817
Raleigh, North Carolina, USA
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 00:27:31 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Fw: Team3S: Rear turbo!!
 
Well, I got a lot of stuff off today... Heatshield took a BFH, vice grips, a giant screwdriver used a crowbar and a lot of verbiage to remove AFTER being unbolted!! One of the bolts on the heatshield took me 1.5 hours to remove. After I got it lose with a wrench I discovered that there was not enough angle of movement for me to loosen it with the wrench. I ended up using the tips of my fingernails on two fingers to turn the damn thing about 1/12 turn at a time.
 
I guess here is what I am getting at... What would be so wrong if I left those damn heat shields off? There is nothing that I see that's super important above them... The hood has a nice metal plate under it for heat protection and I hope to one day get some scoops in the hood for cooling anyway.
 
Anyhow, I got 2 bolts left (I think) holding the turbo to the header. I got the O2 housing and rear pre-cat lose but it does not want to come out. Left it in there till tomorrow, not sure if it pulls out the top or slides out the bottom... Gonna have to mess with it tomorrow. Cant wait to rip the damn thing out...
 
Tyson.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 00:35:43 -0800
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S: Help identify a part.
 
I have a part on my car that I haven't the slightest idea as to it's function. I hope someone here can help me figure out what it is and what it does.
 
Car: '92 VR4 Cali (same as the 2nd gen EGR setup)
 
Location:
Right next to the coolant reservoir. On the front driver side of the reservoir. NOT the big canister under it! Its a small part, circular in shape, little bigger than a golf ball. Has 2 small vacuum lines coming out of the top and 2 larger (air?) lines one coming out the side, another out the bottom.
 
I traced the vacuum lines, they go through the metal vacuum harness that connects the front and the rear of the engine. Same harness used by the front turbo actuator. From there the lines get split a lot. One end I traced to the EGR valve. Another went to a solenoid I am not familiar with bolted to the firewall. Another end went to the vacuum line harness attached to the throttle body. It becomes the black hose with the red line in it. I know that those have got to be color coded for a reason, but I have no idea what the one with the red line does...
 
Anyhow, I would love to know what this part is and what it does. I suspect that it is part of the EGR system, in which case I would be happy to remove it and toss it out as my EGR is nicely blocked.
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Tyson
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 07:13:32 -0800
From: "Shawn Keren" <nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odd hesitation/Lights Flicker -- Need Advice
 
If you are concerned about the capacitors in your ECU and haven't replaced them yet, I strongly suggest that you do it soon. You can get replacement capacitors for less than $5 and it is a very simple job. When I bought my VR4 the previous owner was concerned that there was a big repair bill in his future and didn't want to deal with it. I personally thought that the clutch was going out because of the nasty smell in the cabin. When I did a search on 3si.org I found out about the capacitor problem, bought a set of capacitors from one of the folks on 3si and replaced them in about an hour (including the time to remove the ECU). Smell went away and it fixed some things that were an issue when I bought it.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 11:52:10 -0500
From: Aamer <aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject: Team3S: Changing capacitors
 
I think I may take Shawn's suggestion and change the capacitors. I've never done this before, so it would be really helpful if someone could link me to a step-by-step tutorial. I found a link on Jeff Lucius' page (http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm),
but it says that this is for DSM cars. Am I right in assuming that the exact same part numbers and procedures can be used in our cars?
 
Appreciate it.
 
Aamer Abbas
1994 3000GT (DOHC/Naturally Aspirated)
 
aamer@thepentagon.com
fax: (707)982-8817
Raleigh, North Carolina, USA
 
On Sun, 3 Nov 2002 07:13:32 -0800
"Shawn Keren" <nouveau3@attbi.com> wrote:
 
> If you are concerned about the capacitors in your ECU and haven't
> replaced them yet, I strongly suggest that you do it soon. You can get
> replacement capacitors for less than $5 and it is a very simple job.
> When I bought my VR4 the previous owner was concerned that there was a
> big repair bill in his future and didn't want to deal with it. I
> personally thought that the clutch was going out because of the nasty
> smell in the cabin. When I did a search on 3si.org I found out about
> the capacitor problem, bought a set of capacitors from one of the
> folks on 3si and replaced them in about an hour (including the time to
> remove the ECU). Smell went away and it fixed some things that were an
> issue when I bought it.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 12:22:41 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: Team3S: overheating?
 
Well, according to the temp. gauge on the car ('91 r/t tt), it's not overheating at all ... it never goes over 40% (up, from the bottom) or so. However, after driving it, I can hear a gurgling noise coming from the coolant cap (not the overflow obviously) ... if I take off the coolant cap, it sprays out some over cycles.  I mean some coolant will come out, then there'll be a pause, then I guess the coolant comes back by again, and some more comes out, etc.  Of course initially more comes out, then less and less each time.  If the coolant is this hot, wouldn't the gauge go up?
 
Like I wrote, I can hear it when I get out of the car, so the gurgling is pretty loud.  I don't have a fmic or anything that would decrease stock cooling abilities.  I recently flushed the coolant and refilled it, and that did not help any.  It does this even if I've not driven it hard the last 5 miles or so (I usually notice it when coming home off the highway).
 
thanks for any suggestions,
Bill
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 12:24:14 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Changing capacitors
 
from everything I've seen, leaky capacitors is not an issue on the '94 cars
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 10:03:20 -0800
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Royal Purple?
 
I just put some in my 91 TSI AWD with 60k, no complaints, I don't race it so I cant attest to that. But I keep hearing good things about it, I guess GT Pro uses it.
 
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 11:42:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Saitei Man <saiteiman@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: overheating?
 
Not sure but try check the pressure cap for wear and
tear.
 
Jimmy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 16:09:29 EST
From: GoblinyTwin@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Dead engine, it jumped out of timing !!!!
 
I took my car to a local "AutoLab" shop and they told me that the engine
jumped out of timing.  They said that I will have to replace the valves that
are bent.  They said that the pistons got damaged, maybe.  The cost of
repairs would be around $1500.
I was driving about 80 mph, turned on the boost controller put it in the 4th
gear and the engine turned off.  It sounds like the timing belt snapped but
it did not.  Are they telling me the truth in the shop?
If it's the timing, I want to fix the engine myself.  What parts do I need,
where do I find them.  I want to use this chance to upgrade the engine, want
to put after market parts.  I have the repair manuals on the CD. Thanks Vedran 94 TT.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 17:40:02 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: 94 octane
 
Since this is the first such place I saw, I'll assume it's not too
frequent: For those of you in the east lansing/lansing (mi) area, there's a Sunoco that sells 94 octane gas (intersection of jolly and Okemos rds)
 
Alex.
 
A well fed '95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 14:55:58 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dead engine, it jumped out of timing !!!!
 
It's not just a matter of timing --- they said the timing belt slipped. the timing belt controls the operation of and the relationship between the
cams, crankshaft, pistons etc. Bad things can happen if the belt slips.
 
You can do the work yourself but you better have some background in engine repair or someone to help you. From your questions it doesn't
sound like you have a lot of engine diagnostic experience. It's one thing to rebuild a daily driver  civic but to build a modded 450+ hp engine requires quite a bit of experience or some help.
 
        Jim Berry =================================================
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 19:40:44 -0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Tein Report
 
After a couple years of deliberation, it finally took the realization that my OEM struts were shot before I finally forked over for the Tein set-up. As a frequent open tracker I was expecting some improvements.  The first thing I noticed (was the dent in my savings) was the unforgiving ride.  Turn your ECS to firm and add another 20% or so.  Dialing down the damping rate only causes the roughly twice the stock rate springs to bounce around until your underdamped setting finally regains control.  Oh well.....Oh ya, the track.  Man oh man what a track hound these things have created.  Turn the damping to full firm (seems to be the best match for the springs), and hang on.  I've often taken pleasure in sliding because our cars are good at it, but with the Teins it's taken to a new level.  I could put my car anywhere I wanted it, with little fear of loosing control.  The way it drifts under trailing throttle is a Fast and Furious wannabe dream come true.  Throttle steering is almost second nature now.  I'm coming off the last corner onto the front straight so much faster that my top speed went from 120 to 130. Additionally, my lap times dropped 4 seconds.  Where the car would occasionally bite you if you pushed to ten tenths, now it goes beyond the limit with a sense of control and predictability I didn't think this car was capable of.  Sorry for the long post, I had to rave.  Are you listening Rich?
 
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 16:47:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Ludwig <yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tein Report
 
Why can't we have it all?
If only we could find a system that at the flip of a
switch gives us a comfy cruiser ride and at another
flip gives us the track hound.... I want both!!
Roger L
F15DOC
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 19:21:27 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tein Report
 
>on.  I've often taken pleasure in sliding because our cars are good at
>it, but with the Teins it's taken to a new level.  <snip>  Sorry for
>the long post, I had to rave.  Are you listening Rich?
 
Dave:
 
Yes I am listening, but I am not convinced it's the Teins. I had a similar epiphany in my driving, but it had nothing to do with new hardware. In my case, it was a couple of instructors who showed me something new.
 
Maybe it's the Teins, maybe it's because you have become a better driver, or maybe you convinced yourself that the Teins make it easier to do stuff, so you push harder. It could be any combination of the three. Guess we'll never know until we get a whole bunch of 3000GTs on the same track at the same time and compare lap times v hardware.
 
I will agree with you on one point: If I had to do it all over again from scratch, I'd go with Teins instead of Ground Control.
 
Rich
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #988
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