Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, October 27
2002 Volume 01 : Number 983
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 16:29:04 -0500
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Burnout (now tires)
225/50 Bridgestone Potenza RE730s
I always get the names mixed up (Turenza, Potenza, you know...).
The side walls are MUCH harder so handling is superb compared to the
Mastercraft tires that were on there before. Understeer is much easier
to control with the throttle now, and on occasion I can get something
like controlled oversteer (I wish, haha). I like them a ton, and the
tread pattern is one of the best looking, in my opinion, if you care
about things like that. They are Z rated so they come with the nice
warranty Bridgestone/Firestone offers on them, and you never have to
worry about problems at speed. The treadwear rating is a little lower
than I'm used to, but I love the increased traction. Water handling is
much better as well; I don't hydroplane like I used to, and it feels
more stable on the interstate in heavy rain. One other thing I noticed
is that I can't, unless trying really, really hard, lock the tires, in
dry, or even slightly wet roads. Not sure if that part is necessarily a
good thing, but I feel safer knowing I have the poor man's ABS system. I
paid 380 for the pair after tax, labor, etc. and I think that's pretty
high, so if I had the choice I would probably get them from tirerack
unless you really want that warranty.
- -Dave
> Can you tell me how the 2 different sets of tires have worked out
for
> you? I also have an NA and am curious as to how it
handles.
>
> -mike
> 97 SL
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 22:24:25 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Cut
Damien wrote: "I sometimes hit fuel cut at about 3500rpm in 3rd or 4th
gear.
When this happens the stock boost gauge is pegged at 14psi."
If fuel cut is really happening, then from your description of the "boost
meter", it sounds like the ECM is seeing too much airflow for the engine
speed - for whatever reason (usually from boosting past stock settings).
More
details on my web page below.
=============================================
Gross, Erik wrote: "The
stock boost gauge is worthless except to tell you if
you're in vacuum or
boost."
Starkey, Jr., Joseph wrote: "Don't rely on the stock boost gauge. It is
totally inaccurate."
The "boost meter" is not totally inaccurate. Nor is it worthless.
It is **mislabeled**. It meters neither boost nor vacuum, for these values
are not measured or calculated by the ECM.
The so-called "boost meter" accurately (to the best of my knowledge)
reports
an important value calculated by the ECM that Mitsu calls "A/N".
More details
on my web page noted above and in the "DSM" Technical
Information Manual.
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 17:05:49 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question about replacing the dash defrost vents. "Please
Help".
I don't know if anyone else has said this yet, but go have your windshield
replaced, once they pull your old one out, give the guy $50 and have him
go eat a sandwich while you pop new vents in. It will cost you more but
take like 30 minutes.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 Member #4909
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Sent:
Saturday, October 26, 2002 1:23 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question about
replacing the dash defrost vents. "Please Help".
> Sorry, no easy way... Actually, the EASY way is to remove the
dash
> entirely instead of trying to half-ass it... If you do that,
it ends
> up being ten times more work (By that, I mean taking the dash
only
> partially apart, and trying to get to the vents)... Drop the
steering
> wheel, disconnect the speedo cable at the tranny, and pull out
> everything from the dash, instrument cluster, radio (to get to other
> parts), glove compartment, tweeters in the dash (to get to bolts),
> switches in the dash (to get to more bolts)...
>
> It's a
pain, but well worth it... When you reinstall them, don't
> tighten
them down ~at all~ only enough to make them look good and not
>
rattle... If you overtighten them, or even snug them down, they will
> end up cracking like they did in the first place...
>
>
-Cody
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 23:25:37 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: big reds on Stock 17" 1st gen VR-4 rims, if wheel spacers are
used?
I searched the archives and I found that the Big Red brake conversion
will rub 1st gen 17" VR-4 Wheels. I found mentioned that it LOOKED
like they might fit with wheel spacers and longer studs but I have
not
found anyone who has actually done this. Has anyone tried this?
I have been thinking of Big Reds since seeing Jim Floyd's and Dave
Trent's cars at the National Gathering but I like the stock 17" rims
and
can't afford to replace them unless I wait another year or two
for the
brakes. If wait that long I might as well wait a year longer
and get
the 14" rotor setup that X-wing had on his car. Maybe I will
just get
swaybars and new struts so I don't have to brake as much;)
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 22:40:31 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question about replacing the dash defrost vents. "Please
Help".
The way I did mine was without the wind shield. I had my windshield
replaced and when they took out the windshield. I drove down to the
windshield place. They took out the windshield and I drove the car
home. I popped off the old ones, put the new ones with silicone, held them down
with weights for about 5 hours. Then I had the windshield company
come to my house and put in the windshield.
Took me about 30 minutes. They have held for over two years.
The silicone gives it flexibility during the summer and winter so they
should never break again.
Rgds
Moe
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#983
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