Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, October 25
2002 Volume 01 : Number 981
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 13:14:25 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MAF Sensor Alternatives?
And just drop in a GM ECU too, cause ours don't communicate. Maybe drop in
one of those funny blocks with the extra two cylinders while you're at
it.
rip
- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 6:08
PM
> Or you buy a GM MAP sensor ($50) and a GM IAT Sensor ($50),
attach
> them appropriately to your plenum, and put yourself the
biggest,
> fattest air filter on there with no MAS whatsoever. You
could
> even just have a 3" pipe from each turbo with dual filters if
you
> like.
> Granted you need the AEM EMS or some other engine management
>
system to do this, but it is an alternative and would virtually
>
eliminate the restrictions associated with measuring airflow.
> I like this idea. No need to pull all of your air through
a
> single sensor so you could route your intake any way you want.
>
You could even just strap an air filter directly to each turbo.
> I have a GM car that I can check the output from the sensors
on.
> The big question then would be, how to convert the signal
from
> the GM sensors to a karman vortex signal. Does a GM car
figure
> out the amount of air coming in by computing manifold
pressure
> at current RPM, air temp and barometric pressure and
then
> check a table for a number value?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 10:44:10 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MAF Sensor Alternatives?
You wouldn't need a GM ECU or an funny :-) block...
All you'd need was a circuit that would take two 0-5V signals
(pressure,
temp) and a tach signal and convert it to a Karman
frequency. The circuit wouldn't terribly difficult, but figuring out
the equation relating the inputs and the output would be
interesting. But... perhaps you could get the fuel maps from one of
the guys with an AEM who has converted to speed-density and just
convert those numbers to a Karman frequency. Hmmmmmm.
- --Erik
> And just drop in a GM ECU too, cause ours don't communicate. Maybe
> drop in one of those funny blocks with the extra two cylinders while
> you're at it.
>
> > I have a GM car that I can check the
output from the sensors on.
> > The big question then would be,
how to convert the signal from the
> > GM sensors to a karman vortex
signal.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 14:31:39 -0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Unusually High Knock Sums - What's the Deal?
I have a '92 VR4 that I drive everyday and race several times a year. It
has GT357 turbos with supporting fuel and exhaust mods, stock
intercoolers, and has 150K miles on it. My last few times at the
drag strip, and on my dyno run early this year, both a Datalogger and a
Pocketlogger have shown relatively high knock-sums considering the fuel
and boost that I run. I run 100 octane unleaded fuel or 110 leaded, and
see knock-sums from 19 to 24 at as low as 17psi boost. I normally set the
ARC2 on the rich side to help lower the knock, with O2's usually reading .98
volts. Anything less and the knock goes higher. My car seems to run
strong, but the timing retards significantly in the higher rpms as the
knock occurs, which normally starts at around 5000rpms. But I've sometimes
recorded knock while popping the throttle off idle. So what's the deal?
I've got to assume that I'm getting false knock, or else I don't know what
would be causing it. Assuming this, what should I check for and do to
eliminate it? I've already checked the base timing and confirmed it at 7.5
degrees. I've tried adjusting the crank angle sensor between runs to
increase and decrease the base timing, but there were no apparent changes in
knock. I've tried the motor mount test, and get some engine movement when
I engage the clutch with the parking brake on, but the movement doesn't
seem excessive. I removed one of the intercoolers and it was very clean
inside, but both intercoolers had several rows of bent fins which I tried to
straighten out. What else should I check. Do you think my assumption of
false knock is correct? Could it be the knock sensor itself? Before I
spend tons of money on needless stuff, I just want to make sure that my
problem doesn't lie elsewhere. What do you think?
Thanks,
Jeff W.
Belleville, MI
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 14:28:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Mrs Old Poop??
Hey Rich,
Nice letter to the Editor of Autoweek ('A true trophy
wife') -
10/21/2002.
For those who don't have a copy, Rich's letter is
about
his wife and
the times they have spent together in and
around motorsports. If you
have a copy, it's on page
13.
3kgt content: having a wife that understands and
enjoys the sport can
make your 3000gt experience that
much better.
Glenn
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 09:42:16 -0700
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@primus.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: needle for gauges
Need some help, I have just put in some new white gauge faces, speedo, rpm,
fuel. I took the needles off without marking them. when I put them back on
they r in the wrong spot. How do I correct this any help would be
appreciated
Joel from downunder
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 17:19:27 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
needle for gauges
Check on the 3SI.org board, I know it's been discussed before but I never
paid much attention. I 'calibrated' my speedometer when I had the car up
on four jackstands by calculating the MPH based on gear
ratios and
tire circumference and RPM. Then I pulled the speedometer needle ran it to
a predetermined RPM and set the needle to the calculated MPH. When I
checked it on the road I have about a 1% error at 70 mph. I haven't
checked higher speeds since I haven't taken it on a trip without my
trailer full of race gear.
Jim Berry
==================================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 17:44:51 -0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Unusually High Knock Sums - What's the Deal?
It may be time to upgrade your ignition. I used to get unusual knock
sums until I changed to Accel coils. I am guessing that in my case,
the knock was actually spark blow out.
Other symptoms that I had were, A/F ratios between 11.5 and 12.5 at idle
and hesitation under different boost levels. I even saw my engine
miss a spark at idle every now and then with a timing light. I guess
my stock coils were worn out.
This may not be the cause in your case, but I would check for it.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 21:35:40 -0500
From: "William" <
krikit@sirinet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Transmission Swap Auto to Manual...92 3kGT
Hey, I was wondering if anyone could give me a price quote or estimate for
a tranny swap from the stock Automatic to a 5 or 6 spd Standard
transmission. I've heard horror stories of the front axle snapping when
this swap is done, so I was wondering also what it would take to reinforce the
front axle (or possibly replace?). Any help would be greatly appreciated,
and be gentle if I messed this post up, its my first one!
Thanks in advance,
William
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT Base
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 04:11:17 -0500
From: "Mark and Brenda" <
mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine block question
Hi Gang! Well here I am at 4:00am thinking about my engine and couldn't go
back to sleep. My question is, did Dodge or Mitsubishi use the same engine
block that the 92 NA has, in any other cars or trucks? Thanks in advance.
Mark.
------------------------------
I just bought a '93 3000GT from a dealer (so I don't know any
history). I sometimes hit fuel cut at about 3500rpm in 3rd or 4th
gear. When this happens the stock boost gauge is pegged at
14psi. My brother suggested that there is a manual boost controller
or perhaps the fish tank valve trick on the car. Under the hood
everything appears stock (no sign of mbc) except for a shiny metal Ypipe
(and K&N open element filter, but it hit fuel cut both before and after
installation). There was an owner's manual for a Apexi ebc in the
glove box, but no sign of the actual device. My questions are 1.
Should the stock boost gauge be indicating 14lbs (isn't stock boost 8lbs)?
2. Why might I be hitting fuel cut as such low rpm's?
Thanks
Damien
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#981
***************************************