Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, October 22
2002 Volume 01 : Number
978
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Oct 2002 12:17:50 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: Sears Point vs ??
Hmm, Buttonwillow with 'room to zoom' sounds better
all the time.
Thunderhill too, but I haven't been there yet.
Kurt /
Skyrider
- -----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Clarke
[mailto:steven-c@e-d-a.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 11:12 AM
To:
'fastmax';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; 'Rick
Pierce'; 'rich fowler';
'Michael Gerhard'; 'mark thompson'; Zobel, Kurt;
Zobel, Kurt; 'Ken
Middaugh'; 'Jim Elferdink'; 'Geoff Mohler'; 'Eileen 'ET'
Thomas'; 'Edgar
Francisco'; 'Daniel Fujimoto'; 'Damon Rachell'; 'Bob
Forrest'; 'Ann
Koch'; 'Anjani Shiwakoti'; 'Anissa Moler'; 'andrew Woll';
'Ryan Morris';
3sracers@speedtoys.comSubject: RE:
Sears Point track report
Hi gang,
Sounds like you all had a really
good time. I just got back from the UK
so only just got all the reports
and messages. FYI, I was at Lotus's
factory in Hethel drooling over the
Elise and Esprit V8
I was disappointed that I could not make it. I
managed to get my VR4
back on the road and was set to go but my brother and
his wife had a
baby so family duties came first.
Great to hear that
nobody got too bent. You all did better than me - I
span into the wall
in T10 at 110MPH in a Spec Racer Ford on the previous
week end (SCCA Regional
Final Weekend). I tore the rear body work off
along with the
suspension, and drive shaft. Fortunately no injuries
thanks to a full
role cage and 6pt harness.
Jim, your turn by turn driving notes are
pretty much on the money.
There is not much that I could add for street
cars. Sears Point (OK
Infineon) is a really fun track at >9/10ths
but brutally dangerous at
10/10ths. We had six serious wrecks during
the SCCA regional in our
group alone.
Best regards
Steve
Clarke
President & CEO
Electrochemical Design Associates, Inc.
2840
Seventh Street, Suite 101
Berkeley, CA 94710
www.e-d-a.comphone 510 704
2941
cell 408 461 0031
fax 510 848 1581
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 13:04:21
-0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: Buyer
Beware
This guy has tried the Honda s2000 route and the Audi s4 route.
Just in
case he comes our way...
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=87016Alex
'95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 19:09:41
-0500
From: "Toby Schoonover" <
toby92vr4@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mitsubishi Eclipse : Slightly OT
This is off topic so please
respond directly to me, not the whole list,
unless you believe it is
relevant to 3SI cars. I was looking into the
purchase of an Eclipse, year
model 1996 with 137,000 miles. It comes with a
5 speed manual, 98' Wheels,
98 Leather seats, AEM Intake and Greddy Exhaust,
new burnt orange paint.
First off, around the 130,000 mark what problems
should I begin to look for,
how could I check to make sure he has gone in
for the 30, 60, 100K mile
services, and is there anything in the engine that
I should check for wear.
Plus if anyone has any information on the
reliability of such a vehicle
after 140K miles, I would be greatly in debt.
Thanks - Toby S.
91' Stealth
RT / (I wish I had a TT here)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 20:40:35
-0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR-4 value question
$18K for a '94 VR4??? Run,
don't walk away from this one!
Dennis -==- Philly
M3000GTSL84@aol.com wrote:
>Hey
guys-im in an interesting situation.
>
>My friend has decided to
sell his 94 VR-4 and move on to an RX-7. He wants
>18,000$ for
it.
>
>The car's body is in terrible shape. The interior is also
pretty messy. 4 New
>tires are also needed. There is also an oil
leak from somewhere, but i
>havent been able to determine where from yet.
ALL the speakers r blown.
>
>On the positive side it has Konig rims,
a K&N FIPK, and a downpipe. It also
>has a brand new
tranny.
>
>Is it worth it to trade in my N/A for this TT, or wait
for a better deal?
>
>-mike
>97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 20:54:17
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR-4 value question
With friends like that, who needs
dealers.......;o)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Dennis Ninneman
Sent: Monday,
October 21, 2002 8:41 PM
To:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comCc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
VR-4 value question
$18K for a '94 VR4??? Run, don't walk
away from this one!
Dennis -==- Philly
M3000GTSL84@aol.com wrote:
>Hey
guys-im in an interesting situation.
>
>My friend has decided to
sell his 94 VR-4 and move on to an RX-7. He wants
>18,000$ for
it.
>
>The car's body is in terrible shape. The interior is also
pretty messy. 4
New
>tires are also needed. There is also an oil
leak from somewhere, but i
>havent been able to determine where from yet.
ALL the speakers r blown.
>
>On the positive side it has Konig rims,
a K&N FIPK, and a downpipe. It also
>has a brand new
tranny.
>
>Is it worth it to trade in my N/A for this TT, or wait
for a better deal?
>
>-mike
>97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 22:00:11
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: VR-4 value question
Hey guys-
thank you all for the help.
I didnt think it was a decent value, but because
i had driven and helped him
work on it, i felt that i had already "known"
this VR-4. I think u guys get
what im sayin.
I was actually at the gas station where he works the other
day filling up. i
was talking to him bout it, and another guy came up and
asked how much. When
informed of the 18K price he literally laughed, and
walked away. . .
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 23:38:53
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
removal of ALL MAS honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage (very long)
Hey
all,
Why have honeycombs? They're restricting airflow. Useless and
pointless.
Yeah right. If you're reading this, you better have cone air
filter (to
straigten the air before going through the MAS) and a fuel
computer, or some
way of regulating airflow (a potentiameter on the
barometric pressure sensor
may do the trick). As many of you know,
removing honeycombs can and will
make your car hesitate and idle like
s..t.
But I found a way to carefully remove them, a reversible process,
only
causing very little damage.
What you need:
1) 2 thick
business cards
2) Screwdriver that has a handle small enough to fit between
the two side
air passageways leading to side honeycombs
3) A set of LONG
(1.5 inch or longer) valve adjustment feeler gauges ($2 to
$5 from your local
auto parts store)
4) Bolt penetrating oil
5) A good set of phillips
screwdrivers
The procedure
0) Read all these instructions before
you get started
1) Remove the MAS from the car (you will need to loosen
the large clamp)
2a) If you have an aftermarket air filter, remove it from
the MAS
2b) If you have a stock air box, BEWARE. Don't even think about this
until
you e-mail me first. Didn't I say to have a cone air filter already?
And if
you go in there cold turkey, you will most likely destroy your stock
air box
when removing it. This is just fine if you're planning on upgrading
to cone
anyway.
3) Remove the four metal screws that hold in the top
and bottom honeycomb
frame (be careful, don't strip. use the penetrating oil
first).
4) Remove the plastic frame. Use may also want to remove that rubber
gasket
just to get it out of the way and clean it up.
5) Get the business
cards, and cut them into 3 shapes. One shape for top
honeycomb. One for
bottom honeycomb. One of both sides (they are both the
same shape)
6) Use
the small handle screwdriver, a small hammer, and the cardboard on
front of
the top and bottom honeycombs to lightly tap them out from the back
side to
the front. The handle of the screwdriver should make contact with
the
honeycomb, not the drive side. The top and bottom honeycombs should come
out
very easily. DO NOT try the side honeycombs yet.
7) The side honeycombs are
glued in. At the joining point where the side
honeycombs meet the plastic
MAS, spray penetrating oil all around (but use
sparingly, don't get it on the
wire sensor). Get some coffee. Wait 10
minutes for the oil to penetrate the
glue.
8) Use a .006 feeler gauge (or the smallest that you have) and slowly
lodge
it in between the plastic MAS rim and the honeycomb. This will further
break
down the glue. Be very careful. Push the feeler gauge ALL THE WAY in
until
it hits the back plastic frame. Also, use the feeler gauge ALL THE
WAY
AROUND both side honeycombs. Do not miss any part.
9) Once you've
broken down all the glue you may consider going over it again
with a slightly
larger feeler gauge in order to open the gap slightly.
Again, be very
careful! This is where the slight damage is caused.
10) If you did this
procedure correctly, then when you drop in the
respective shaped cardboard
and attempt to tap out the side honeycombs
(using the HANDLE of the
screwdriver, not the drive side), they should come
out very easily. If they
don't come out easily, then you must have missed
some of the glue with your
feeler gauge. Go over it again and try again.
11) If you're confused or
having trouble, e-mail me.
12) Mark the location of the side honeycombs when
you remove them, So that
they can go back in, in case your car runs
funny/poorly/etc.
Congratulations. You now have a gutted MAS. And you can
put it back together
anytime you want. Save the honeycombs carefully. They
are very delicate. If
you do put it back together, I'd recommend gluing it
again... just in case
they somehow come loose and decide to fly into your
engine (NA models) or
turbos (TT models) eeeek!
Disclaimer: Don't be
an idiot. I will be more than happy to help anyone that
truly is prepared for
this mod. But I'm not responsible if you somehow
manage to screw this process
up and ruin your honeycombs. And be careful
with that penetrating oil. Try
not to get it on the sensor (looks like a
resistor). And don't blame me when
your bone stock 3S car idles and runs
like a disgruntled dog when you do this
mod. I told you so.
Have a nice week all,
Riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 00:49:48
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
removal of ALL MAS honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage (very long)
Idle and
drivability will definetely be no good if you don't compensate
using a fuel
computer or some other way to "trick" the ECU. What happens is
that without
the screen, more air flies past the sensor without the sensor
seeing it. This
will make your engine run lean because the air flow sensor
reports to the
ECU, which thereby decides how much fuel to inject. The above
mentioned
methods are all ways to richen your fuel mixture again. The idea
behind this
mod is that if it is done properly and with all the
prerequisites, there will
be increased airflow and (hopefully) better
performance in the
end.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 02:02:41
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: removal of ALL MAS honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage (very
long)
after removal of the honeycomb the MAS cannot accurately measure
ANY air
flowing through, the MAS uses a karman vortex air flow system,
basically
when the air flows through the honeycomb it spins off into small
vortices,
and the sensor measures those (speed and frequency) to determine
how much
air is flowing through the device.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT
VR-4
Member #4909
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin"
<
riyan@hotpop.com>
To: <
ViperPilot99@aol.com>; "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 22, 2002 1:49 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: removal of ALL MAS
honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage
(very long)
> Idle and
drivability will definetely be no good if you don't compensate
> using a
fuel computer or some other way to "trick" the ECU. What happens
is
>
that without the screen, more air flies past the sensor without the
sensor
> seeing it. This will make your engine run lean because the air
flow sensor
> reports to the ECU, which thereby decides how much fuel to
inject. The
above
> mentioned methods are all ways to richen your fuel
mixture again. The idea
> behind this mod is that if it is done properly
and with all the
> prerequisites, there will be increased airflow and
(hopefully) better
> performance in the end.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 00:53:47
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
removal of ALL MAS honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage (very long)
One more
thing:
Anytime there's a chance that you'll be running on the lean side,
you'll
want to have an A/F gauge. Preferably two, so that you can monitor
both
banks of the engine simultaneosly.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 01:19:00
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: okay
to start car only with timing belt?
as I am slowly pulling out of my 60k
service and moving on to my mods list,
I have been informed that it's going
to rain around here this weekend (prob
starting friday). I definetely want my
baby back in the carport so I can do
mods over the weekend. I was planning on
just putting on the timing belt (no
covers or accessory belts) and driving
around the corner to my carport. Is
this okay? Or will I get a check engine
light? I can always push it, but
it's kind of a long
push.
Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 01:26:34
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
removal of ALL MAS honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage (very long)
I see
lots of people (especially on 3si) running without the screen. That's
what
motivated me to give it a shot. The failures seemed to be those who
didn't
have a way to tweak the system afterward. Anyway, that's why it's
reversible,
right?
Riyan
**************
after removal of the honeycomb
the MAS cannot accurately measure ANY air
flowing through, the MAS uses a
karman vortex air flow system, basically
when the air flows through the
honeycomb it spins off into small vortices,
and the sensor measures those
(speed and frequency) to determine how much
air is flowing through the
device.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 07:48:00
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
removal of ALL MAS honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage (very long)
I don't
see any big advantage in removing the honeycomb at all --- if you
look
at the area taken up by the thin steel bands it is rather minimal.
The
honeycomb act as a rectifier to straighten the airflow so it flows
evenly
around the post that houses the vortex detector. I'd like to see
somebody
actually measure any performance gains from this mod --- and not
butt dyno,
hell they post butt dyno gains from waxing the car and 100 octane
gas.
http://www.stealth316.com/images/stim/tim_14-07.gifDoes
anybody know how common the usage is and what's the advantage over
the more
popular bridge method.
Hmmm --- I wonder what the makers of that
'Tornado' device have to say
about it's use on our cars with the Vortex MAS
???
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
To:
"team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 22, 2002 1:02 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: removal of ALL MAS
honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage (very long)
> after removal of the
honeycomb the MAS cannot accurately measure ANY air
> flowing through, the
MAS uses a karman vortex air flow system, basically
> when the air flows
through the honeycomb it spins off into small vortices,
> and the sensor
measures those (speed and frequency) to determine how much
> air is
flowing through the device.
> Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT VR-4
>
Member #4909
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Riyan Mynuddin"
<
riyan@hotpop.com>
> To:
<
ViperPilot99@aol.com>; "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 1:49 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: removal of
ALL MAS honeycombs WITHOUT causing damage
> (very long)
>
>
> Idle and drivability will definetely be no good if you don't
compensate
> > using a fuel computer or some other way to "trick" the
ECU. What happens
> is
> > that without the screen, more air
flies past the sensor without the sensor
> > seeing it. This will make
your engine run lean because the air flow sensor
> > reports to the
ECU, which thereby decides how much fuel to inject. The
> above
>
> mentioned methods are all ways to richen your fuel mixture again. The
idea
> > behind this mod is that if it is done properly and with all
the
> > prerequisites, there will be increased airflow and (hopefully)
better
> > performance in the end.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#978
***************************************
