Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, October 12 2002 Volume
01 : Number 970
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:55:15 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help w/ Boost Controller Settings
I'll toss in my settings for reference:
Gain: 4
Ratio: 54
Warn: 1.04kg/cm^2
I see a peak boost of 0.99kg when ambient is around 45F. That's going
from part throttle to WOT at 4000RPM in 3rd, which is generally when I get my
worst spikes. Adjusting my GReddy BPV affects my spiking and ability to
hold boost - still experimenting with that.
- --Erik
=========================================================
'95 Glacier
White Pearl
VR-4
60,000mi
-
---------------------------------------------------------
Intake:
*
K&N FIPK
* GReddy Type S Bypass
Valve
Exhaust:
* Tyspeed EG-Spec Downpipe, High-Flow Rear
Pre-Cat
Electronics:
* Blitz DSBC (Ratio:54,
Gain:4)
=========================================================
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:43:54 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Why do many have low (11V) voltage at the fuel pump?
I read your page after the first post Jeff. It's all correct...except it
fails to explain or expand upon one thing. How does the computer come up with an
appropriate injector on time is once it figures out the "A/N" value?
My money is on that it has programmed tables/maps it looks it up on.
Trevor
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 14:30:03 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Why do many have low (11V) voltage at the fuel pump?
All EFI systems use look up tables, a mathematical formula doesn't always
work and tables are easy to tweak. Quicker to access to than doing the
math.
If you're getting a large voltage drop across the fuel pump relay then the
contacts will be dirty / worn / pitted. try cleaning with a points file or
replacing the relay.
> I read your page after the first post Jeff. It's all correct...except
> it fails to explain or expand upon one thing. How does the computer
> come up with an appropriate injector on time is once it figures out
> the "A/N" value?
>
> My money is on that it has programmed
tables/maps it looks it up on.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 21:49:08 -0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Chassis Dynamics Question
Very happy with the handling on my '97 VR4 with the changes I've made
(Teins, bars, control arms, wheels, tires). Last items I might
consider
are the strut tower bars that seem to be all the rage.
Can someone explain under what driving circumstances the chassis motion
these bars will reduce or eliminate?
Thanks.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 22:26:49 EDT
From:
GMightymoose@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
need help on clutch kit
Hey everyone, Im considering an upgrade for a recently acquired 92
VR4. Very
low miles and a 5-speed. Current mods include EBC,
K&N filter and bigger
fuel injs. I was considering an RPS or
ACT. Either the carbon claw or
stage I or II. Does anyone
feel that the stage II would be a little
"overkill" or would it be ok
to use on my vehicle with its current mods?
Could anyone please help
me out in locating the best deal on either of these
Complete clutch kit, or
any suggestions on a better clutch kit. Thanks in
advance
James 99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 22:29:19 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: a
quickly growing list of reasons NOT to postpone 60k tune-up
I am in the process of doing my 60k now. Here is what I found:
1. front bank exhaust cam has slipped 3 teeth (out of the 48)... hopefully
no engine damage 2. two of the three accessory idler pulleys are shot, dried and
noisy 3. the water pump pulley bearings failed. very big lash in the pulley. and
the metal shards from the dead bearings are all over the timing belt area,
shredding through my timing belt (many cuts in the t-belt) 4. water pump gasket
failed. dried, matted coolant is all over the timing belt 5. accessory drive
belts are cracked so badly...about 5+ cracks per inch... about to break 6.
timing belt cover gaskets are rotted out. it's pretty damn dirty in there.
And the crazy part . . .
my car has been running like this! been running just fine. those pulleys
are kinda noisy, and the coolant leak has been getting worse. but besides that
I've had another everyday stealth from the "outside". don't procrastinate the
60k. I'm 8,000 miles overdue and clearly by the looks of this, I'm very lucky to
have a working car right now.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 00:01:13 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: Was:
150000 mile advice. Rebuild as preventative maintenance??
I read Mark's questions about a rebuild at 150k and that makes me raise
some of my own questions. My black TT is at 188000 miles. Runs great. Only
problem is I think one turbo may be marginal. (1 turbo, clutch, tranny, and
transfer case replaced recently) So far it idles clean, runs clean and strong. I
will do a compression test and perhaps that'll help me in making my decision.
Mark: that may be a good idea for you too. However, even if compression comes
out good I couldn't imagine that the other internals e.g. crank and cam bearings
have too much life in them. I'm doing a 60k now. Should I just throw my hands
down and rebuild this sucker before it breaks? I suppose I could just buy a damn
block and head... but my bank account says no. Any advice?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 02:05:34 -0500
From: "Michael Neill" <
dblxx@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Cold Feet!
While enjoying the VR-4's capabilities this evening, I
took a sharp right turn and felt like a pint of cold water spilled on my right
(gas pedal
foot) shoe is soaked, the carpet wet and I am clueless. I have
been using the air/defrost for a couple of days with the climate here in
Tennessee, maybe the moisture has built up and accumulated in the
evaporator box. Any suggestions, or should I start drilling holes in the
box.
Thanks, Mike,
(wetfoot) 1997 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 00:02:59 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fluctuating idle
check your idle control motor and throttle position sensor. also pressure
test your intake & check your vacuum hoses for a (possibly intermittent)
leak.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 00:08:11 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fluctuating idle
oops didn't read all messages before posting. go with Erik's list. it's
better thought out. sorry 'bout that.
Riyan
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 15:01:22 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help w/ Boost Controller Settings
A Gain of only 4 is way too low and therefore the torque gain is minimized.
Start with :
Gain : 12
Ratio : 34
If one uses larger turbos the higher the Gain may be set. On my old 13g the
Gain was set to 17 with different rations. On the GT368 Gain is 20 as boost
doesn't rise that quick. The Gain can be set back one or two with gutted precats
as spoolup is better. Testing this out is the key. !
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Sent:
Saturday, October 12, 2002 2:55 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help w/ Boost
Controller Settings
> I'll toss in my settings for reference:
>
> Gain:
4
> Ratio: 54
> Warn: 1.04kg/cm^2
>
> I see a peak
boost of 0.99kg when ambient is around 45F. That's going
> from part
throttle to WOT at 4000RPM in 3rd, which is generally when
> I get my
worst spikes. Adjusting my GReddy BPV affects my spiking and
>
ability to hold boost - still experimenting with that.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 06:56:17 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cold Feet!
Sounds like the evaporator box drain hose has become clogged or
disconnected. Watch out if you drill holes here. The evap coils are close by. If
you punch one it will be a very long and expensive proposition
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Neill" <
dblxx@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday,
October 12, 2002 12:05 AM
Subject: Team3S: Cold Feet!
| While enjoying the VR-4's capabilities this
evening, I took a
| sharp right turn and felt like a pint of cold water
spilled on my
| right (gas pedal foot) shoe is soaked, the carpet wet and I
am
| clueless. I have been using the air/defrost for a couple of days
|
with the climate here in Tennessee, maybe the moisture has built
| up
and accumulated in the evaporator box.
| Any suggestions, or should I start
drilling holes in the box.
| Thanks,
| Mike,
| (wetfoot) 1997
VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 12:12:12 EDT
From:
GMightymoose@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Another question on clutches
I was wondering if anyone else had any suggestions on where one could find
best deal on stage II complete clutch kit for a 92 VR4 5-speed. I have
a
budget of $500. I've looked at RPS and ACT. All suggestions
and info is
greatly appreciated in advance.
James
99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 12:32:27 -0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Was: 150000 mile advice. Rebuild as preventative maintenance??
Like the old saying goes:
Pay me now or pay me later ........... at a higher interest rate!
Age old questions ........ how long you going to keep the car; how much
risk are you willing to take?
Its not the block and heads ......... its the things attached that are
going. Quality parts replacement by a reputable shop will make it like
new. Yes, its not cheap, but you're not driving a Ford Escort either.
Price of admission for driving a Japanese import that is considered
somewhat exotic.
Dennis -==- Philly
Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
>I read Mark's questions about a rebuild at 150k and that makes me raise
>some of my own questions. My black TT is at 188000 miles. Runs great.
>Only problem is I think one turbo may be marginal. (1 turbo, clutch,
>tranny, and transfer case replaced recently) So far it idles clean,
>runs clean and strong. I will do a compression test and perhaps that'll
>help me in making my decision. Mark: that may be a good idea for you
>too. However, even if compression comes out good I couldn't imagine
>that the other internals e.g. crank and cam bearings have too much life
>in them. I'm doing a 60k now. Should I just throw my hands down and
>rebuild this sucker before it breaks? I suppose I could just buy a damn
>block and head... but my bank account says no. Any advice?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 12:35:38 -0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cold Feet!
Yow ........
You're scaring me ......... I've got a '97. No accidents ever?
Mods
that went through firewall or floor? Recent repairs by ANYONE?
Detailing the interior of the car ........... with a fire hose?
Dennis -==- Philly
Michael Neill wrote:
> While enjoying the VR-4's capabilities this evening,
I took a sharp
>right turn and felt like a pint of cold water spilled on
my right (gas
>pedal
>foot) shoe is soaked, the carpet wet and I am
clueless. I have been using
>the air/defrost for a couple of days with the
climate here in Tennessee,
>maybe the moisture has built up and
accumulated in the evaporator box. Any
>suggestions, or should I start
drilling holes in the box.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 12:42:50 -0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help w/ Boost Controller Settings
Roger,
Must have been your instructions I used to set my BC ........... thank
you, thank you! What a resource.
With stock turbo's then, (you saw my post with my mods?) a gain of 12 is
adequate? I had set the original ratio at 35 and didn't SEEM to see
much difference from the stock BC. Thoughts?
Dennis -==- Philly
Roger Gerl wrote:
>A Gain of only 4 is way too low and therefore the torque gain is
>minimized. Start with :
>
>Gain : 12
>Ratio :
34
>
>If one uses larger turbos the higher the Gain may be set. On
my old 13g
>the Gain was set to 17 with different rations. On the GT368
Gain is 20
>as boost doesn't rise that quick. The Gain can be set back
one or two
>with gutted precats as spoolup is better. Testing this out is
the key.
>
>Check out my DSBC pages that can be used on all Blitz
DSBC controllers
>
http://www.rtec.ch/dsbc_manual.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 11:57:48 -0500
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil filter for 97 3000gt SL
I have the good ol lash adjuster tick on my 97 3000gt SL. I have heard
from most that the type of oil filter used could help the ticking sound
go away. I have been going to a Texaco oil change place to have the oil
changed with Mobil One Syntech. They have been using a Fram oil filter
on the car.
What oil filter is recommend for the 3000GT SL. Should I go to the
dealer and get the Mitsubishi filter or will a OEM filter work better.
Thanks!
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 19:15:38 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help w/ Boost Controller Settings
Increasing Gain also increases the danger for overboosting when shifting or
other situations where boost spikes may occur. With the SBC-iD the boost curve
can be recorded so tuning is easily. With the others, warn should be set to 1.00
bars (or what is desired) with a Ratio minus of 0. Then Gain can be set to 12
and Ratio slowly increased (by 2 as an example) until the beep warns. Now
increase Gain and you may probably notice an overboost that comes back (and will
decrease after 4800 rpm). With a very low to zero overboost (depending on what
do you want) you can then increase ratio again to reach the desired boost.
Basically the Gain is high for larger turbos and low for smaller (also
check out the table in the manual). The ratio is giving a percentage of the
maximum possible boost. Some "deadliners" have boosted their tiny turbos above
the 1.4 bars range but seems to be the 100% for them. So a Ratio of 50 would
mean that 0.7 bars could be reached. This calc works not that easy as the fall
off is not linear. Therefore, the 0.7 bars are in the Ratio range of 30-40 and
this is close to the stock level. But every car is different, stock BOV vs.
aftermarket, fuel, precats, exhaust, etc. Therefore the ratio figure is very
different on many cars and everyone should tune it in for their mods.... and
just make sure to be such a dork as I was years ago, because above the 1.2 bars
mark the music plays a total different, veeeery nice sound (i.e. screaming in
your car) ... but the dark man is riding with you and kills the engine without
the appropriate mods.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Sent:
Saturday, October 12, 2002 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help w/ Boost
Controller Settings
> Roger,
>
> Must have been your instructions I used to set
my BC ........... thank
> you, thank you! What a
resource.
>
> With stock turbo's then, (you saw my post with my
mods?) a gain of 12
> is adequate? I had set the original ratio at
35 and didn't SEEM to
> see much difference from the stock BC.
Thoughts?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 13:21:37 EDT
From:
GoblinyTwin@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
How do I disconnect the MAF.
My car wound not start. The starter motor is spinning but the engine
wound
not turn. I was told to check the fuses in the engine. My
question is, what
fuses. Also, they told me to disconnect the battery
and the MAF before I
replace the fuses. Is the MAF the Mass Air
Flow. Where is it on the car and
how do I disconnect it.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 12:35:54 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
gabe92rttt@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How do I disconnect the MAF.
The fuses are located in the fuse box just below your airbox. At
least those are the only "fuses" that I am aware of in the engine bay. To
disconnect your MAS, Just unplug the harness that goes to it. It should be
after your airbox, in the main intake hose. The connection is on the MAS
itself and is on the top side of it.
Hope this helps.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
GoblinyTwin@aol.com>
Sent: Saturday,
October 12, 2002 11:21 AM
Subject: Team3S: How do I disconnect the MAF.
> My car wound not start. The starter motor is spinning but the
engine
> wound not turn. I was told to check the fuses in the
engine. My
> question is, what fuses. Also, they told me to
disconnect the
> battery and the MAF before I replace the fuses. Is
the MAF the
> Mass Air Flow. Where is it on the car and how do I
disconnect it.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 11:57:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Out
for 9 days
Hi gang,
If someone is interested in the 2nd front end I am
selling,
go ahead and send me a not, but be advised I
will be "out of touch" for about
9 days or so.
I may or may not get access to email.
See ya then
Roger
L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 13:03:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Spelling Master :)
Nice spelling huh?
Can you tell I am rushed to get everything taken
care
of? Anyway, 2nd Gen front end.... and if interested
send me a
NOTE :)
Later
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Spelling and grammar on this list and the 3S racer list are generally
superb. Both lists are remarkably free of the atrocious abuse of the English
language that plagues other discussion groups, such as the 3S blue light list
and the 3Si.org forums. (I've been thrown off the blue light list on two
occasions for criticizing grammar.)
This is probably because we are interested in sharing technical
information. If one wants an answer from the many experts residing here, it is
vital to phrase a question properly. Likewise, to be understood on technical
issues, it is necessary to answer a question about fuel maps and fuel pump
voltages with correct grammar. We've seen many such examples in recent
days.
Although in some cases the technical discussions sound like two PhD
engineers debating a theory, the arguments are clear and to the point. And when
our European friends enter the discussions, their contributions are written in
English so precise they put many Americans to shame.
Even when we see teenagers enter discussions, they put aside their churlish
manners and act like responsible adults. They might be saying "I go" and "dude"
amongst their high school peers, but here they let their native intelligence
shine through in their communications.
Therefore, when we see spelling errors, we know that it was because of
haste, or because the poster is a newbie.
Like, all is forgiven, dude.
Rich/slow old poop
At 01:03 PM 10/12/02 -0700, Roger Ludwig wrote:
>Nice spelling
huh?
>Can you tell I am rushed to get everything taken
care
>of? Anyway, 2nd Gen front end.... and if
interested
>send me a NOTE :)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 23:15:07 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Spelling Master :)
On a similar note, I have been helping Bob Forrest create the Digest
versions of the daily Team 3/S email list. I correct all spelling mistakes
that I find (within reason) so those of you getting the digest list might not
see the same errors that the daily recipients see. Just to test this,
Rich, go back through a few of the latest digests and see if anything was
corrected. Here is one place to look. This is just another way we
all contribute to the overall greatness of the list.
(Note: Not all of the latest digest versions are available online due to
time constraints and other icky things but here are three corrections from
Friday, October 11. I have put an asterisk around the word in question for
you ease of recognition.)
Original version 1:
"I ran across a 92 red base with a
cracked bell *houseing* the
other day"
Digest version 1:
"I ran across a 92 red base with a
cracked bell *housing* the
other day"
Original version 2:
"has a small dent in the left front
fender and busted
lens but looks ok other than that, has new
*tiars*"
Digest version 2:
"has a small dent in the left front
fender and busted
lens but looks ok other than that, has new
*tires*"
Original version 3:
"When you upped the voltage to the
pump in the low/part
throttle area the computer may still be
opening the
injectors for *additonal* time"
Digest version 3:
"When you upped the voltage to the pump
in the low/part
throttle area the computer may still be opening
the
injectors for *additional* time"
- --Flash!
With the latest upgrade of Microsoft's smellchecker
<grin>
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#970
***************************************