Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, October 8
2002 Volume 01 : Number 966
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 10:51:12 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust
Yes, yes, and no.
I actually have just gutted my rear cat (the "hard" one -- the "easy" one
had rusted bolts). It definitely got louder after that. That was my
only change to the car and it bought me three tenths in the quarter!
I consistently ran 13.6 before gutting the cat, ran a 13.3 on my only run after
it (terrible night at the track and my next trip up I blew 2nd gear right
out of the tranny). I haven't noticed any difference in boost, my car
still runs around 11.5psi.
This week I intend to gut the other pre-cat (prolly not the main tho) and
I'm going to try to fix my active-exhaust so I can quiet the thing down after
that.
HTH,
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joel Singh
[mailto:joelsingh@primus.com.au]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 1:46
AM
> Subject: Team3S: Exhaust
>
> I'm thinking about gutting
the pre cats and the main cat, will the car
> become much louder, will I
notice the difference in the flow, will I
> get any more power gain from
this?
> Does it increase boost at all ?
> thanks, Joel.
------------------------------
how difficult is the rear wheel bearing replacement on the VR4? I've done
the front wheel bearings, but understand the rear ones have to be pressed in
and pulled out possibly at a machine shop.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 10:07:27 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
Folks, speaker impedance is something that is not difficult to figure out,
but may not be as easy as you think.
The formula for impedance in an AC circuit is the same as that for
resistance in a DC circuit. E (Voltage)=I(Current) x R(Resistance).
If you take two 4 ohm speakers and hook them up in series then you have an
8 ohm load. If you hook them up in parallel then you have a two ohm load.
Another way to look at it is that with two 4 ohm speakers you cannot
present a 4 ohm load to the driving terminals at a radio.
In order to know the impedance of a particular car you have to know the
design spec, or have a complete schematic of the original circuit with all
the individual impedances stated. Them you have to mathematically figure
it out.
Most car radios will work equally well with the whole circuit presenting
either a 4 or an 8 ohm load. The radio just plain does not care that much.
Ideally, the load presented should be in accordance with the mfg spec, but
as long as the load is between 4 and 8 ohms it will not matter. Now, each time
you add a speaker you have the option of hooking it in series or parallel.
Series loads will halve the power at each speaker and each will be half as loud.
The impedance will double. Parallel connections will double the volume but
drain twice as much current since impedance will be half. This can present a big
load to your radio or amp and can actually overload the system.
It would be a good idea if you intend to do anything other than replace
stock parts with similar parts, to go to a pro and at least check out your
intended changes with the pro. At least you won't hurt anything and you
may improve it.
Good luck.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Sent:
Monday, October 07, 2002 5:58 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: speaker replacement
help needed
| Anthony: I am almost positive our stock setup is 4 ohm. As
for the
| crossover, you are generally always better off using the crossover
| supplied by the speaker manufacturer, as the manufacturer is most
|
knowledgeable about its speaker's characteristics and capabilities.
|
Did you decide to change the tweeter AND the woofers, but keep the
| stock
amp, etc.? The reason I am asking is that it you're keeping
|
everything stock and just changing out the front speakers, you should
| try
to make sure that your new speakers closely match the sensitivity
| rating
of the old stock speakers. If not, there may be a noticeable
| volume
difference between the front and the back at the same power.
| In
other words, feeding a 4 ohm speaker with an 86 db sensitivity
| rating 10
watts will sound quieter than feeding a 4 ohm speaker with a
| higher
sensitivity rating the same 10 watts. The greater the
| difference in
sensitivity, the more noticeable the difference in
| volume. You can,
of course, compensate for this by adjusting the
| fader, but by doing so
you'll lose some power from your amp.
|
| This was an issue for me when I
changed out my entire system. I
| installed Polk 6-3/4" component
woofers and tweeters in the front, and
| Polk 6x9's in the rear. The
fronts were rated at 86db sensitivity,
| while the rears were 91db.
Recognizing a very noticeable difference
| in volume, I decided to bypass
the amplifier in my receiver (It's a
| Kenwood Excelon), and install two
separate amplifiers to power the
| front and rear speakers. That way I
can set the sensitivity and
| output controls on my amps to equalize out the
power.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 14:02:19 -0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
spayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Stealth for Sale
Selling 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
Car is in Virginia near
Charlottesville.
Car has been covered since the day I bought it 5 years
ago.
Car has app 72k miles on it.
Belts changed at 60K (including
timing)
Pearl White
Mods include -
BLITZ Dual SBC-i
Y-Pipe
Down Pipe
high flow main cat
Gut pre-Cats
HKS Twin
Power ignition amplifier
NGK plugs
K&N Filter Charger
All work
done by Altered Atmosphere
Dyno'd at 316 HP at the wheels (AWD
remember)
Car is mechanically near perfect (needs front end alignment) Body
is near perfect (one small ding on roof,minor rock chips,etc..) Interior is near
perfect (cracked dash vents, right dash speaker rattles so I unplugged
it)
You know these cars well, but if you have more questions feel free to email
me directly at
Spayne@hunton.com
Offers being accepted now from this group before I Ebay it.
Why am I
selling my baby? Too many toys!! I have changed my mind on selling many times.
Better grab it fast. These are currently selling at 13k on Ebay WITHOUT
mods. I will take half of mods cost for a total of $14,500 OBO
------------------------------
Not to throw a monkey wrench into the already excellent advice I have
received, but I am really looking to use the existing wiring and just bolt in
speakers. So if there is a crossover, I don't want to run new
wires.
Isn't there any kind of setup where the cross overs are built into the
speakers, or if they are separate, will allow me to use the existing wiring
?
I know if I buy regular speakers, I can wire in a capacitor for a
crossover, but I have no idea what values to use to get the proper
frequencies.
I am not necessarily looking for studio sound, or award winning stereo
system. I am looking for the easiest solution to replace the stock
speakers with aftermarket, and to use the existing wiring and stock radio
and amp.
Anyone know how I can do this ?
Anthony Melillo
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:18:20 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
One thing you left out Andy... That's the fact that impedance changes
over frequency... So... Say you have a crossover, or maybe even a
pair of speakers wired in parallel with filters on each of them, then you
are staying at each speakers impedance for which the sound the reproduce is
at...
Ex:
2 speakers, wired in parallel. 1 is a 6.5" mid with a low-pass filter
set at 3500 hz, the other is a tweeter with a high pass filter set at 3500 hz as
well. Both are 4 ohm speakers, however at frequencies above 3500 hz,
you are getting the 4 ohm from the tweeter, and below 3500 hz, you are getting
the 4 ohm of the mid. They both roll off gradually (crossover
slope), and therefore you will have slightly lower (parallel, remember) ohm
loads around the filter points...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Woll
Sent: Monday, October
07, 2002 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
Folks, speaker impedance is something that is not difficult to figure out,
but may not be as easy as you think.
The formula for impedance in an AC circuit is the same as that for
resistance in a DC circuit. E (Voltage)=I(Current) x R(Resistance).
If you take two 4 ohm speakers and hook them up in series then you have an
8 ohm load. If you hook them up in parallel then you have a two ohm load.
Another way to look at it is that with two 4 ohm speakers you cannot
present a 4 ohm load to the driving terminals at a radio.
In order to know the impedance of a particular car you have to know the
design spec, or have a complete schematic of the original circuit with all
the individual impedances stated. Them you have to mathematically figure
it out.
Most car radios will work equally well with the whole circuit presenting
either a 4 or an 8 ohm load. The radio just plain does not care that much.
Ideally, the load presented should be in accordance with the mgf spec, but
as long as the load is between 4 and 8 ohms it will not matter. Now, each time
you add a speaker you have the option of hooking it in series or parallel.
Series loads will halve the power at each speaker and each will be half as loud.
The impedance will double. Parallel connections will double the volume but
drain twice as much current since impedance will be half. This can present a big
load to your radio or amp and can actually overload the system.
It would be a good idea if you intend to do anything other than replace
stock parts with similar parts, to go to a pro and at least check out your
intended changes with the pro. At least you won't hurt anything and you
may improve it.
Good luck.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:22:59 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
[3si] Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
What I would do... mount the crossovers under the factory radio, or
in a common location and use existing wiring... Sure, it'll take some splicing
and a few short pieces of wire to do it right, but that's the
easiest...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
Sent: Monday,
October 07, 2002 1:17 PM
Subject: [3si] Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help
needed
Not to throw a monkey wrench into the already excellent advice I have
received, but I am really looking to use the existing wiring and just bolt in
speakers. So if there is a crossover, I don't want to run new
wires.
Isn't there any kind of setup where the cross overs are built into the
speakers, or if they are separate, will allow me to use the existing wiring
?
I know if I buy regular speakers, I can wire in a capacitor for a
crossover, but I have no idea what values to use to get the proper
frequencies.
I am not necessarily looking for studio sound, or award winning stereo
system. I am looking for the easiest solution to replace the stock
speakers with aftermarket, and to use the existing wiring and stock radio
and amp.
Anyone know how I can do this ?
Anthony Melillo
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 11:22:02 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Idle Speed at 1200RPM
For the last couple weeks, my idle has been a little high (1100-1400RPM)
and usually sits at 1200RPM. It doesn't hunt and it doesn't make funny
noises; it's just high. When I turn on the A/C, the idle kicks up to
1500RPM and is stable there. The car never stalls, dies, or exhibits
momentarily low idle when transitioning to closed-throttle
conditions.
Thus I don't suspect my ISC/IAC motor. (sound right?)
I looked at the master troubleshooting guide in the FSM and the #1 and #2
items for my problem are the coolant temp sensor and the closed-throttle
position switch, respectively.
One thing makes me wonder about the coolant temp sensor... I don't
remember my car idling high before I installed my aftermarket temperature gauge
probe in the thermostat housing. It might have idled high before
that, but I don't recall it doing so. When I removed the stock plug in the
thermostat housing, it took a LOT of force (probably 200ft-lbs?) to break
it loose because there was some kind of thread-locker on there from the
factory. I remember a loud "clank" as the plug broke free and
thinking to myself, "I hope I didn't break something!" Everything else
with the installation went smoothly and both my aftermarket gauge (rear
hole) and my stock gauge (front hole in thermostat housing) work properly.
The ECU temp sensor is in the middle hole and didn't LOOK like anything
was wrong with it. I'm wondering if I could've damaged the ECU temp probe
in some way... I don't see what could break, but given the current
symptoms, I wonder.
Anyone know a *convenient* way to test the temp sensor? At this
point, I'm envisioning a PITA process of running the car to operating temp,
taking off the y-pipe, draining the radiator, and removing upper radiator
hose with the car still warm. Then disconnecting the temp sensor and
measuring the resistance, using the aftermarket gauge to correlate the
coolant temp. Then
let everything cool down and check it
again. Is there a better way? The
manual wants me to remove
the sensor completely and test it in a pot of
hot/cold water. I'm
not wanting to break anymore threadlocker unless I
have to :-)
Anyone have this problem before and have it be something other than the
coolant temp sensor? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Thanks,
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with high idle
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 14:24:29 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
[mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 2:17
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
Not to throw a monkey wrench into the already excellent advice I have
received, but I am really looking to use the existing wiring and just bolt in
speakers. So if there is a crossover, I don't want to run new
wires.
Isn't there any kind of setup where the cross overs are built into the
speakers, or if they are separate, will allow me to use the existing wiring
?
I know if I buy regular speakers, I can wire in a capacitor for a
crossover, but I have no idea what values to use to get the proper
frequencies.
I am not necessarily looking for studio sound, or award winning stereo
system. I am looking for the easiest solution to replace the stock
speakers with aftermarket, and to use the existing wiring and stock radio
and amp.
Anyone know how I can do this ?
Anthony Melillo
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 19:57:26 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Idle Speed at 1200RPM
> Anyone know a *convenient* way to test the temp
> sensor?
At this point, I'm envisioning a PITA
> process of running the car to
operating temp,
> taking off
Just measure the DC voltage at the appropriate pin on
the ECU
connector. Voltage will probably go down as
temperature increases
(unless Mitsu used an inverse
thermistor - which they did in the airflow
sensor). If
it doesn't change at all, then you've got a bad
sensor.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:12:15 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Idle Speed at 1200RPM
Thanks, Matt. I was just thinking about that this morning after I
posted. I also thought to check for a #21 fault code in the ECU since (from some
3si archives), sometimes that code doesn't turn on the check engine
light. My ECU is clear of fault codes, so none of the check conditions
found anything wrong. I'll check the voltage at the ECU this evening
- the manual lists the appropriate voltages for a range of temps.
- --Erik
> > Anyone know a *convenient* way to test the temp sensor?
> Just measure the DC voltage at the appropriate pin on
> the ECU
connector.
------------------------------
The other night, the engine -- all by itself -- screamed up to the red line
and bounced off the rev limiter. “Oops,” I sez, “something is screwed up.”
I couldn’t get it to idle down below 7200 rpm, so I had to modulate the
rpms with the ignition switch. (Just like my rally days, when we broke a
throttle return spring and ran three stages at WOT, turning the key on and
off to slow down. But I digress.)
It was great fun getting it off the road and parked safely. I had a flatbed
haul it away.
We took it to Fast & Furious speed shop, and they fished the torn
Y-pipe gasket out of the air box. Instead of blowing off the Y-pipe like it
usually does, it sucked in the rubber gasket, which bollixed up the
throttle.
They put another rubber gasket on there, and I drove it home. About five
miles from home, it started bucking at low rpms (2,000 or so), so I shifted down
so I could run it at 5,000 rpm and keep it smooth. I managed to get it
home, but it’s loping like crazy.
Dunno what’s wrong -- maybe a piece of the gasket is still in there -- all
suggestions are welcome. It goes back to F&F tomorrow.
But here’s my real question:
I have a set of 560 cc injectors waiting to go in. All I’m waiting for is
enuf funds to magically appear on the money tree in the back yard so I can
afford to do turbos, AFC, and injectors all at the same time.
If they have to disassemble fuel parts to solve the immediate problem,
should I have them install the 560 injectors while they are in there? Would
running big injectors without the other mods hurt anything? (Current mods:
Supra fuel pump, Stillen, K&N, DSBC boost controller, Blitz BOV)
Rich/slow old poop
94 3000GT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:51:05 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
with out a fuel controller YES, if you drop the 320 and get an S-AFC or
S-AFR you will be fine. Just have to trim the fuel maps so the car is
running a proper A/F ratio.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 20:51:54 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
> We took it to Fast & Furious speed shop, and they
> fished
the torn Y-pipe gasket out of the air box.
> Instead of blowing off the
Y-pipe like it usually
> does, it sucked in the rubber gasket, which
bollixed
> up the throttle.
Bummer.
> They put another rubber gasket on there, and I drove
> it home.
About five miles from home, it started
> bucking at low rpms (2,000 or
so), so I shifted down
> so I could run it at 5,000 rpm and keep it
smooth. I
> managed to get it home, but it’s loping like crazy.
Sounds like there's something else wrong in the intake.
What
gasket did they use to repair the Y-pipe? The
Mitsu gasket is pretty
much the only thing that works
unless you completely redo it with some
intercooler
coupling hose or something along those lines. I'd guess
there's a big vacuum leak somewhere. Check the Y-pipe
again.
> Would running big injectors without the other mods
> hurt
anything? (Current mods: Supra fuel pump,
> Stillen, K&N, DSBC boost
controller, Blitz BOV)
Yes, you'll run WAY too rich with bigger injectors and
no fuel
control. Don't do it until you can afford to do
it right.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 13:56:53 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
You are absolutely right Cody. Remember, I said it is basically simple, but
in reality computing impedance can get very complicated and it not quite so
easy as the examples I gave. The formula E=IR works fine in a purely
resistive DC circuit.
It will also work in a purely resistive AC circuit. The problem is that
speakers are not purely resistive. To the contrary, speaker coils are INDUCTORS,
and have inductance. INDUCTANCE is a function of frequency, just as you
noted. it is computed using the formula Xl=2(Pi)FL Xl meaning inductance
Reactance Pi meaning Pi F meaning frequency L meaning reluctance (An
inherent quality of a coil).
With these thoughts in mind you can see that the overall circuit impedance
will in fact vary depending on frequency. It gets even more complicated once
we add capacitors. Capacitive reactance is given by the
formula
Xc=1/(2(Pi)FC)
Fortunately, when car radios are concerned the 4 ohms or 8 ohms that we
concern ourselves with are really pretty rough figures. I doubt any of us have a
load that is exactly 4 ohms. Because of the frequency aspect of
computation the figure is actually going to vary as music is played. Overall, on
average, however, it will work out so that the total average load
presented to the amplifier is about 4 ohms.
Wow - I have not thought about these formulas in 30 years. If anyone
remembers this differently I am not so arrogant as to disallow for swift
correction.
Take car - TURN UP THE VOLUME - ENJOY THE MUSIC. ITS A GREAT DAY.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:59:49 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
Rich...
I ran 560 injectors and a HKS fuel pump without a fuel controller for at
least a year. Although I had already upgraded my turbos, it ran fine. You'll
be doing your engine a favor by dumping more gas in there although you'll
see a drop in mpg without the controller. But, given what you do with your car,
I doubt the difference between 18 mpg and 14
mpg is going to be your
biggest issue. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 1:47
PM
Subject: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
<snip>
If they have to disassemble fuel parts to solve the immediate problem,
should I have them install the 560 injectors while they are in there? Would
running big injectors without the other mods hurt anything? (Current mods:
Supra fuel pump, Stillen, K&N, DSBC boost controller, Blitz BOV)
Rich/slow old poop
94 3000GT VR4
------------------------------
>Sounds like there's something else wrong in the intake.
>What
gasket did they use to repair the Y-pipe? The
>Mitsu gasket is
pretty much the only thing that works
>unless you completely redo it with
some intercooler
>coupling hose or something along those lines.
They found another gasket that seems to work fairly well. It is almost
identical to the Mitsu gasket, but fits much tighter.
I'd guess
>there's a big vacuum leak somewhere. Check
the Y-pipe
>again.
OK
>
>> Would running big injectors without the other
mods
>> hurt anything? (
>
>Yes, you'll run WAY too rich
with bigger injectors and
>no fuel control. Don't do it until you
can afford to do
>it right.
>
That’s what Russ Furman said.
Sigh. Just trying to save a coupla bucks.
Thanks, guys.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 18:15:44 -0400
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rear wheel bearing replacement VR4
It's not terrible, but if things are really seized it can be challenging I
suppose.
You'll need to get the caliper/rotor off, then you'll either
have to hammer slide the axle out or carefully hammer it from the other
side(inwards) after disconnecting the
four bolts that couple it.
You will definitely want to press off the old and press on
the new bearing,
that sucker is a real interference fit. The shop charged me $20 or
so
to do that. Take notes on where the bearing hat (dust cover) goes.
good luck
"Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
> how difficult is the rear
wheel bearing replacement on the VR4? I've
> done the front wheel
bearings, but understand the rear ones have to be
> pressed in and pulled
out possibly at a machine shop.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:38:23 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need 2 cheep mufflers! Personal experience request :)
ok, then what cheep muffler will fit on the passenger side? Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 Member #4909
- ----- Original Message -----
> Actually,
I think your muffler choice will be based on which one will
> fit on the
passenger side. There is not a lot of room over there.
>
> Rich/slow
old poop
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 20:03:16 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
> I ran 560 injectors and a HKS fuel pump without a fuel controller for
> at least a year. Although I had already upgraded my turbos, it ran
> fine.
That's not at all a typical response. Are you sure they were actually
560's?
My car won't run over 4000 RPM without fuel control, and if it went to
boost it would blow nice clouds of hydrocarbon enriched black smoke. I
can't comprehend how it could be fine with 30%+ too much fuel. I've
heard many stories of people attempting to do that and then wondering why their
car runs like crap.
I still recommend to do it right the first time.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 14:36:18 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
Nearly right,
L meaning inductance.
Xl meaning inductive reactance
To calculate impedance you need to know reactance (x)& resistance (r) X
squared + R squared = Z squared where Z = impedance.
Realistically though you just use the resistance values for speakers which
are just a bit lower than the impedance figures.Don't go adding extra speakers
to a standard stereo either, I'll guarantee you'll blow it up.
Steve
> It will also work in a purely resistive AC circuit. The problem is
> that speakers are not purely resistive. To the contrary, speaker coils
> are INDUCTORS, and have inductance. INDUCTANCE is a function of
> frequency, just as you noted. it is computed using the formula
> Xl=2(Pi)FL Xl meaning inductance Reactance Pi meaning Pi
> F
meaning frequency
> L meaning reluctance (An inherent quality of a
coil).
>
> With these thoughts in mind you can see that the overall
circuit
> impedance will in fact vary depending on frequency. It gets
even more
> complicated once we add capacitors. Capacitive reactance is
given
> by the formula Xc=1/(2(Pi)FC)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 18:03:52 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
> They found another gasket that seems to work fairly well. It is almost
> identical to the Mitsu gasket, but fits much tighter.
Rich,
Many folks would be interested in the gasket they used. Any info
would be very helpful and would be a candidate for our FAQs.
Thanks,
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 18:07:51 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Idle Speed at 1200RPM
Be sure to check that big screw with the o-ring that is in the throttle
body. As it backs out (just before it usually blows out), the RPM will
rise. Try screwing it back in to see if the RPM lowers. Don't
turn it all the way in though, leave it out a couple of turns.
Good luck,
Ken
> For the last couple weeks, my idle has been a little high
>
(1100-1400RPM) and usually sits at 1200RPM. It doesn't
> hunt and it
doesn't make funny noises; it's just high.
> When I turn on the A/C, the
idle kicks up to 1500RPM and
> is stable there. The car never
stalls, dies, or exhibits
> momentarily low idle when transitioning to
closed-throttle
> conditions.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:32:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
Curious whats kept you from just plain upgrading...
On Mon, 7 Oct 2002, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> > They found another gasket that seems to work fairly well. It is
> > almost identical to the Mitsu gasket, but fits much
tighter.
>
> Rich,
>
> Many folks would be interested
in the gasket they used. Any info
> would be very helpful and would
be a candidate for our FAQs.
>
> Thanks,
> Ken
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available
for MK3 supras NOW! Check out
http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html
for details. This is the only planned purchase -ever- of these, until
October 5th.
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:47:07 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
> Curious whats kept you from just plain upgrading...
Upgrading the Y-pipe is a waste of cash if you don't have larger
intercooler piping. Getting a Y-pipe that is the same input sizes as stock
is even more a waste. Stock pipe works fine well past 25 psi with a
good unmolested gasket and a strong clamp. Put the $200 in the "buy some
real turbos" fund instead.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:48:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
Well, could have been cheaper than a new motor for Merrit..worst
case.
On Mon, 7 Oct 2002, Matt Jannusch wrote:
> Upgrading the Y-pipe is a waste of cash if you don't have larger
> intercooler piping. Getting a Y-pipe that is the same input sizes
as
> stock is even more a waste. Stock pipe works fine well past 25
psi
> with a good unmolested gasket and a strong clamp. Put the
$200 in the
> "buy some real turbos" fund instead.
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available
for MK3 supras NOW! Check out
http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html
for details. This is the only planned purchase -ever- of these, until
October 5th.
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 19:51:46 -0700
From: "Shawn Keren" <
nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
My little company (Drunken Bear Auto Accessories) actually markets a Ypipe
gasket replacement kit. The kit will not come off even under high boost. This
kit goes for $18 plus shipping, if anyone is interested I can send
pics.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Sent:
Monday, October 07, 2002 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y
pipe
>Sounds like there's something else wrong in the intake.
>What
gasket did they use to repair the Y-pipe? The
>Mitsu gasket is
pretty much the only thing that works
>unless you completely redo it with
some intercooler
>coupling hose or something along those lines.
They found another gasket that seems to work fairly well. It is almost
identical to the Mitsu gasket, but fits much tighter.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 00:03:24 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Which Rims for Road Course Racing
Hey Rich - those 17" wheels you sold me were loaned to a friend for AutoX
use this summer since I was away from the road circuit all year. They certainly
are my first choice for road tires (strong, durable, chipping enough I
don't shine them like the 18s, and wide enough to easily hold a 265-wide tire
if necessary). They also double as my winter wheel set with
Bridgestone Blizzaks on the car so the salt does not bother me anymore.
Thanks again for selling them and they are holding up well.
I saw a set of Moda wheels on Joel's car up at the Cape Cod gathering this
past weekend and was impressed with them. "Thin" spokes that were not
hollow like the 18" chrome ones but solid and very beefy and strong but
thin enough to allow lots of air in there. If they are made in 17" then
they would be very good similar to the, I think, Forgeline design and
maybe the SSR that you have, Rich. All very similar designs.
- --Flash!
Rich's old 17" wheels as track/winter wheel
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netSent:
Friday, October 04, 2002 00:43
Subject: Re: Team3S: Which Rims for Road
Course Racing
Buy a set of 94+ 17 in. wheels for your race tires. A set of rusty, flaky
chromies would be fine. So would SL wheels, ugly as they are. There are zillions
of race tires available for 17 in. wheels at a reasonable price.
I ran 97 SL wheels for two years until I sold them to Flash, and he's still
running on them!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 06:05:23 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
Anthony - I know you have said you only want to replace stock components,
but I think you can see from this thread that stereo design is not as simple as
it looks. If you put in the wrong components or use wrong values you can
damage your system. I am not saying "don't do it". All I am saying is that if
you cannot replace parts with exactly the same parts, then it would be
wise to check with a professional as to what to do. It will be cheap
insurance.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Sent:
Monday, October 07, 2002 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement
help needed
| Nearly right,
|
| L meaning inductance.
| Xl meaning inductive
reactance
|
| To calculate impedance you need to know reactance (x)&
resistance (r)
| X squared + R squared = Z squared where Z =
impedance.
|
| Realistically though you just use the resistance values for
speakers
| which are just a bit lower than the impedance figures.Don't go
adding
| extra speakers to a standard stereo either, I'll guarantee you'll
blow
| it up.
|
| Steve
------------------------------
Thanks! Satan wants $300 labor and $100 parts to change them
both. I have to decide if that is worth the trouble.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Frouhar
[mailto:mfrouhar@bear.com]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 5:16 PM
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rear wheel bearing replacement VR4
It's not terrible, but if things are really seized it can be challenging I
suppose.
You'll need to get the caliper/rotor off, then you'll either
have to hammer slide the axle out or carefully hammer it from the other
side(inwards) after disconnecting the
four bolts that couple it.
You will definitely want to press off the old and press on
the new bearing,
that sucker is a real interference fit. The shop charged me $20 or
so
to do that. Take notes on where the bearing hat (dust cover) goes.
good luck
"Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
> how difficult is the rear
wheel bearing replacement on the VR4? I've
> done the front wheel
bearings, but understand the rear ones have to be
> pressed in and pulled
out possibly at a machine shop.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 18:03:34 +0400
From: Andrew Spargo <
spargo@emirates.net.ae>
Subject:
Team3S: Was suspension knock
Thanks to Jim, Bob & David(also in the U.A.E) for the advice, having
looked at these E shaped rubbers closely myself, I think I can explain why it
appears no one else appears to have them fitted. I now realize these
rubbers are almost the whole length of our front coil springs (didn't realize
the front springs were that short), the result is that there is very
little travel of the front coils with these fitted. I am guessing now that these
are in fact "transit blocks" that should be removed once the vehicle
reaches its destination (or during the PDI inspection).
I am waiting
with interest the reply from the local dealer (who I purchased it from brand
new, almost 3 years ago) who has sent an email to Japan asking them for
the part number so they can replace the missing one. I have asked them to check
the front suspension for the last 2 years but they have never found any
fault. I have removed the other 3 and enjoyed the comfortable ride back (always
thought the 3000GT had stiff suspension!!!!!!!). Many thanks to those who
put me on the right path.
Andy Spargo
(who will find out for Jim how our cars run with no O2
sensors)
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#966
***************************************