Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Tuesday, October 8 2002   Volume 01 : Number 966
 
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Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 10:51:12 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Exhaust
 
Yes, yes, and no.
 
I actually have just gutted my rear cat (the "hard" one -- the "easy" one had rusted bolts).  It definitely got louder after that.  That was my only change  to the car and it bought me three tenths in the quarter!  I consistently ran 13.6 before gutting the cat, ran a 13.3 on my only run after it (terrible night  at the track and my next trip up I blew 2nd gear right out of the tranny).  I haven't noticed any difference in boost, my car still runs around 11.5psi. 
 
This week I intend to gut the other pre-cat (prolly not the main tho) and I'm going to try to fix my active-exhaust so I can quiet the thing down after that.
 
HTH,
geis
 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joel Singh [mailto:joelsingh@primus.com.au]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 1:46 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Exhaust
>
> I'm thinking about gutting the pre cats and the main cat, will the car
> become much louder, will I notice the difference in the flow, will I
> get any more power gain from this?
> Does it increase boost at all ?
> thanks, Joel.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 11:52:53 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: rear wheel bearing replacement VR4
 
how difficult is the rear wheel bearing replacement on the VR4? I've done the front wheel bearings, but understand the rear ones have to be pressed in and  pulled out possibly at a machine shop.
 
Chuck Willis
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 10:07:27 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
Folks, speaker impedance is something that is not difficult to figure out, but may not be as easy as you think.
 
The formula for impedance in an AC circuit is the same as that for resistance in a DC circuit.  E (Voltage)=I(Current) x R(Resistance).
 
If you take two 4 ohm speakers and hook them up in series then you have an 8 ohm load. If you hook them up in parallel then you have a two ohm load. Another  way to look at it is that with two 4 ohm speakers you cannot present a 4 ohm load to the driving terminals at a radio.
 
In order to know the impedance of a particular car you have to know the design spec, or have a complete schematic of the original circuit with all the  individual impedances stated. Them you have to mathematically figure it out.
 
Most car radios will work equally well with the whole circuit presenting either a 4 or an 8 ohm load. The radio just plain does not care that much. Ideally,  the load presented should be in accordance with the mfg spec, but as long as the load is between 4 and 8 ohms it will not matter. Now, each time you add a  speaker you have the option of hooking it in series or parallel. Series loads will halve the power at each speaker and each will be half as loud. The  impedance will double. Parallel connections will double the volume but drain twice as much current since impedance will be half. This can present a big load  to your radio or amp and can actually overload the system.
 
It would be a good idea if you intend to do anything other than replace stock parts with similar parts, to go to a pro and at least check out your intended  changes with the pro. At least you won't hurt anything and you may improve it.
 
Good luck.
 
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 5:58 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
| Anthony:  I am almost positive our stock setup is 4 ohm.  As for the
| crossover, you are generally always better off using the crossover
| supplied by the speaker manufacturer, as the manufacturer is most
| knowledgeable about its speaker's characteristics and capabilities. 
| Did you decide to change the tweeter AND the woofers, but keep the
| stock amp, etc.?  The reason I am asking is that it you're keeping
| everything stock and just changing out the front speakers, you should
| try to make sure that your new speakers closely match the sensitivity
| rating of the old stock speakers.  If not, there may be a noticeable
| volume difference between the front and the back at the same power. 
| In other words, feeding a 4 ohm speaker with an 86 db sensitivity
| rating 10 watts will sound quieter than feeding a 4 ohm speaker with a
| higher sensitivity rating the same 10 watts.  The greater the
| difference in sensitivity, the more noticeable the difference in
| volume.  You can, of course, compensate for this by adjusting the
| fader, but by doing so you'll lose some power from your amp.
|
| This was an issue for me when I changed out my entire system.  I
| installed Polk 6-3/4" component woofers and tweeters in the front, and
| Polk 6x9's in the rear.  The fronts were rated at 86db sensitivity,
| while the rears were 91db.  Recognizing a very noticeable difference
| in volume, I decided to bypass the amplifier in my receiver (It's a
| Kenwood Excelon), and install two separate amplifiers to power the
| front and rear speakers.  That way I can set the sensitivity and
| output controls on my amps to equalize out the power.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 14:02:19 -0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <spayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth for Sale
 
Selling 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
Car is in Virginia near Charlottesville.
Car has been covered since the day I bought it 5 years ago.
Car has app 72k miles on it.
Belts changed at 60K (including timing)
Pearl White
Mods include -
BLITZ Dual SBC-i 
Y-Pipe
Down Pipe
high flow main cat
Gut pre-Cats
HKS Twin Power ignition amplifier
NGK plugs
K&N Filter Charger
All work done by Altered Atmosphere
Dyno'd at 316 HP at the wheels (AWD remember)
Car is mechanically near perfect (needs front end alignment) Body is near perfect (one small ding on roof,minor rock chips,etc..) Interior is near perfect  (cracked dash vents, right dash speaker rattles so I unplugged it)
 
You know these cars well, but if you have more questions feel free to email me directly at Spayne@hunton.com
 
Offers being accepted now from this group before I Ebay it.
Why am I selling my baby? Too many toys!! I have changed my mind on selling many times. Better grab it fast. These are currently selling at 13k on Ebay  WITHOUT mods. I will take half of mods cost for a total of $14,500 OBO
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 14:16:42 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
Not to throw a monkey wrench into the already excellent advice I have received, but I am really looking to use the existing wiring and just bolt in speakers.   So if there is a crossover, I don't want to run new wires.
 
Isn't there any kind of setup where the cross overs are built into the speakers, or if they are separate, will allow me to use the existing wiring ?
 
I know if I buy regular speakers, I can wire in a capacitor for a crossover, but I have no idea what values to use to get the proper frequencies.
 
I am not necessarily looking for studio sound, or award winning stereo system.  I am looking for the easiest solution to replace the stock speakers with  aftermarket, and to use the existing wiring and stock radio and amp.
 
Anyone know how I can do this ?
Anthony Melillo
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:18:20 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
One thing you left out Andy...  That's the fact that impedance changes over frequency...  So...  Say you have a crossover, or maybe even a pair of speakers  wired in parallel with filters on each of them, then you are staying at each speakers impedance for which the sound the reproduce is at...
 
Ex:
 
2 speakers, wired in parallel.  1 is a 6.5" mid with a low-pass filter set at 3500 hz, the other is a tweeter with a high pass filter set at 3500 hz as well.   Both are 4 ohm speakers, however at frequencies above 3500 hz, you are getting the 4 ohm from the tweeter, and below 3500 hz, you are getting the 4 ohm of  the mid.  They both roll off gradually (crossover slope), and therefore you will have slightly lower (parallel, remember) ohm loads around the filter  points...
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Woll
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
Folks, speaker impedance is something that is not difficult to figure out, but may not be as easy as you think.
 
The formula for impedance in an AC circuit is the same as that for resistance in a DC circuit.  E (Voltage)=I(Current) x R(Resistance).
 
If you take two 4 ohm speakers and hook them up in series then you have an 8 ohm load. If you hook them up in parallel then you have a two ohm load. Another  way to look at it is that with two 4 ohm speakers you cannot present a 4 ohm load to the driving terminals at a radio.
 
In order to know the impedance of a particular car you have to know the design spec, or have a complete schematic of the original circuit with all the  individual impedances stated. Them you have to mathematically figure it out.
 
Most car radios will work equally well with the whole circuit presenting either a 4 or an 8 ohm load. The radio just plain does not care that much. Ideally,  the load presented should be in accordance with the mgf spec, but as long as the load is between 4 and 8 ohms it will not matter. Now, each time you add a  speaker you have the option of hooking it in series or parallel. Series loads will halve the power at each speaker and each will be half as loud. The  impedance will double. Parallel connections will double the volume but drain twice as much current since impedance will be half. This can present a big load  to your radio or amp and can actually overload the system.
 
It would be a good idea if you intend to do anything other than replace stock parts with similar parts, to go to a pro and at least check out your intended  changes with the pro. At least you won't hurt anything and you may improve it.
 
Good luck.
 
Andy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:22:59 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [3si] Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
What I would do...  mount the crossovers under the factory radio, or in a common location and use existing wiring... Sure, it'll take some splicing and a few  short pieces of wire to do it right, but that's the easiest...
 
- -Cody
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 1:17 PM
Subject: [3si] Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 

Not to throw a monkey wrench into the already excellent advice I have received, but I am really looking to use the existing wiring and just bolt in speakers.   So if there is a crossover, I don't want to run new wires.
 
Isn't there any kind of setup where the cross overs are built into the speakers, or if they are separate, will allow me to use the existing wiring ?
 
I know if I buy regular speakers, I can wire in a capacitor for a crossover, but I have no idea what values to use to get the proper frequencies.
 
I am not necessarily looking for studio sound, or award winning stereo system.  I am looking for the easiest solution to replace the stock speakers with  aftermarket, and to use the existing wiring and stock radio and amp.
 
Anyone know how I can do this ?
Anthony Melillo
 
_______________________________________________
3si mailing list
3si@3si.org
http://www.3si.org/mailman/listinfo/3si
 
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------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 11:22:02 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Idle Speed at 1200RPM
 
For the last couple weeks, my idle has been a little high (1100-1400RPM) and usually sits at 1200RPM.  It doesn't hunt and it doesn't make funny noises; it's  just high.  When I turn on the A/C, the idle kicks up to 1500RPM and is stable there.  The car never stalls, dies, or exhibits momentarily low idle when  transitioning to closed-throttle conditions.
 
Thus I don't suspect my ISC/IAC motor.  (sound right?)
 
I looked at the master troubleshooting guide in the FSM and the #1 and #2 items for my problem are the coolant temp sensor and the closed-throttle position  switch, respectively.
 
One thing makes me wonder about the coolant temp sensor...  I don't remember my car idling high before I installed my aftermarket temperature gauge probe in  the thermostat housing.  It might have idled high before that, but I don't recall it doing so.  When I removed the stock plug in the thermostat housing, it  took a LOT of force (probably 200ft-lbs?) to break it loose because there was some kind of thread-locker on there from the factory.  I remember a loud  "clank" as the plug broke free and thinking to myself, "I hope I didn't break something!"  Everything else with the installation went smoothly and both my  aftermarket gauge (rear hole) and my stock gauge (front hole in thermostat housing) work properly.  The ECU temp sensor is in the middle hole and didn't LOOK  like anything was wrong with it.  I'm wondering if I could've damaged the ECU temp probe in some way... I don't see what could break, but given the current  symptoms, I wonder. 
 
Anyone know a *convenient* way to test the temp sensor?  At this point, I'm envisioning a PITA process of running the car to operating temp, taking off the  y-pipe, draining the radiator, and removing upper radiator hose with the car still warm.  Then disconnecting the temp sensor and measuring the resistance,  using the aftermarket gauge to correlate the coolant temp.  Then
let everything cool down and check it again.   Is there a better way?  The
manual wants me to remove the sensor completely and test it in a pot of
hot/cold water.   I'm not wanting to break anymore threadlocker unless I
have to :-)
 
Anyone have this problem before and have it be something other than the coolant temp sensor?  Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
 
Thanks,
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with high idle
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 14:24:29 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
Your capacitor idea is probably the only way. To calculate capacitor value, see http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
Not to throw a monkey wrench into the already excellent advice I have received, but I am really looking to use the existing wiring and just bolt in speakers.   So if there is a crossover, I don't want to run new wires.
 
Isn't there any kind of setup where the cross overs are built into the speakers, or if they are separate, will allow me to use the existing wiring ?
 
I know if I buy regular speakers, I can wire in a capacitor for a crossover, but I have no idea what values to use to get the proper frequencies.
 
I am not necessarily looking for studio sound, or award winning stereo system.  I am looking for the easiest solution to replace the stock speakers with  aftermarket, and to use the existing wiring and stock radio and amp.
 
Anyone know how I can do this ?
Anthony Melillo
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 19:57:26 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Idle Speed at 1200RPM
 
> Anyone know a *convenient* way to test the temp
> sensor?  At this point, I'm envisioning a PITA
> process of running the car to operating temp,
> taking off
 
Just measure the DC voltage at the appropriate pin on
the ECU connector.  Voltage will probably go down as
temperature increases (unless Mitsu used an inverse
thermistor - which they did in the airflow sensor).  If
it doesn't change at all, then you've got a bad sensor.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:12:15 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Idle Speed at 1200RPM
 
Thanks, Matt.  I was just thinking about that this morning after I posted. I also thought to check for a #21 fault code in the ECU since (from some 3si  archives), sometimes that code doesn't turn on the check engine light.  My ECU is clear of fault codes, so none of the check conditions found anything wrong.   I'll check the voltage at the ECU this evening - the manual lists the appropriate voltages for a range of temps.
 
- --Erik
 
> > Anyone know a *convenient* way to test the temp sensor?
 
> Just measure the DC voltage at the appropriate pin on
> the ECU connector.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 15:46:31 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
The other night, the engine -- all by itself -- screamed up to the red line and bounced off the rev limiter. “Oops,” I sez, “something is screwed up.” I  couldn’t get it to idle down below 7200 rpm, so I had to modulate the rpms with the ignition switch. (Just like my rally days, when we broke a throttle  return spring and ran three stages at WOT, turning the key on and off to slow down. But I digress.)
 
It was great fun getting it off the road and parked safely. I had a flatbed haul it away.
 
We took it to Fast & Furious speed shop, and they fished the torn Y-pipe gasket out of the air box. Instead of blowing off the Y-pipe like it usually does,  it sucked in the rubber gasket, which bollixed up the throttle.
 
They put another rubber gasket on there, and I drove it home. About five miles from home, it started bucking at low rpms (2,000 or so), so I shifted down so  I could run it at 5,000 rpm and keep it smooth. I managed to get it home, but it’s loping like crazy.
 
Dunno what’s wrong -- maybe a piece of the gasket is still in there -- all suggestions are welcome. It goes back to F&F tomorrow.
 
But here’s my real question:
 
I have a set of 560 cc injectors waiting to go in. All I’m waiting for is enuf funds to magically appear on the money tree in the back yard so I can afford  to do turbos, AFC, and injectors all at the same time.
 
If they have to disassemble fuel parts to solve the immediate problem, should I have them install the 560 injectors while they are in there? Would running  big injectors without the other mods hurt anything? (Current mods: Supra fuel pump, Stillen, K&N, DSBC boost controller, Blitz BOV)
 
Rich/slow old poop
94 3000GT VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:51:05 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
with out a fuel controller YES, if you drop the 320 and get an S-AFC or S-AFR you will be fine.  Just have to trim the fuel maps so the car is running a  proper A/F ratio.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 20:51:54 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
> We took it to Fast & Furious speed shop, and they
> fished the torn Y-pipe gasket out of the air box.
> Instead of blowing off the Y-pipe like it usually
> does, it sucked in the rubber gasket, which bollixed
> up the throttle.
 
Bummer.
 
> They put another rubber gasket on there, and I drove
> it home. About five miles from home, it started
> bucking at low rpms (2,000 or so), so I shifted down
> so I could run it at 5,000 rpm and keep it smooth. I
> managed to get it home, but it’s loping like crazy.
 
Sounds like there's something else wrong in the intake. 
What gasket did they use to repair the Y-pipe?  The
Mitsu gasket is pretty much the only thing that works
unless you completely redo it with some intercooler
coupling hose or something along those lines.  I'd guess
there's a big vacuum leak somewhere.  Check the Y-pipe
again.
 
> Would running big injectors without the other mods
> hurt anything? (Current mods: Supra fuel pump,
> Stillen, K&N, DSBC boost controller, Blitz BOV)
 
Yes, you'll run WAY too rich with bigger injectors and
no fuel control.  Don't do it until you can afford to do
it right.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 13:56:53 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
You are absolutely right Cody. Remember, I said it is basically simple, but in reality computing impedance can get very complicated and it not quite so easy  as the examples I gave.  The formula E=IR works fine in a purely resistive DC circuit.
 
It will also work in a purely resistive AC circuit. The problem is that speakers are not purely resistive. To the contrary, speaker coils are INDUCTORS, and  have inductance. INDUCTANCE is a function of frequency, just as you noted.  it is computed using the formula Xl=2(Pi)FL Xl meaning inductance Reactance Pi  meaning Pi F meaning frequency L meaning reluctance (An inherent quality of a coil).
 
With these thoughts in mind you can see that the overall circuit impedance will in fact vary depending on frequency. It gets even more complicated once we  add capacitors. Capacitive reactance is given by the formula
Xc=1/(2(Pi)FC)
 
Fortunately, when car radios are concerned the 4 ohms or 8 ohms that we concern ourselves with are really pretty rough figures. I doubt any of us have a load  that is exactly 4 ohms. Because of the frequency aspect of computation the figure is actually going to vary as music is played. Overall, on average, however,  it will work out so that the total average load presented to the amplifier is about 4 ohms.
 
Wow - I have not thought about these formulas in 30 years. If anyone remembers this differently I am not so arrogant as to disallow for swift correction.
 
Take car - TURN UP THE VOLUME - ENJOY THE MUSIC. ITS A GREAT DAY.
 
Andy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:59:49 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
Rich...
 
I ran 560 injectors and a HKS fuel pump without a fuel controller for at least a year. Although I had already upgraded my turbos, it ran fine. You'll be  doing your engine a favor by dumping more gas in there although you'll see a drop in mpg without the controller. But, given what you do with your car, I  doubt the difference between 18 mpg and 14
mpg is going to be your biggest issue.   :-)
 
Looking forward...Chris
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 1:47 PM
Subject: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
<snip>
 
If they have to disassemble fuel parts to solve the immediate problem, should I have them install the 560 injectors while they are in there? Would running  big injectors without the other mods hurt anything? (Current mods: Supra fuel pump, Stillen, K&N, DSBC boost controller, Blitz BOV)
 
Rich/slow old poop
94 3000GT VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 16:01:01 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
>Sounds like there's something else wrong in the intake.
>What gasket did they use to repair the Y-pipe?  The
>Mitsu gasket is pretty much the only thing that works
>unless you completely redo it with some intercooler
>coupling hose or something along those lines.
 
They found another gasket that seems to work fairly well. It is almost identical to the Mitsu gasket, but fits much tighter.
 
 I'd guess
>there's a big vacuum leak somewhere.  Check the Y-pipe
>again.
 
OK
>
>> Would running big injectors without the other mods
>> hurt anything? (
>
>Yes, you'll run WAY too rich with bigger injectors and
>no fuel control.  Don't do it until you can afford to do
>it right.
>
That’s what Russ Furman said. Sigh. Just trying to save a coupla bucks.
 
Thanks, guys.
 
Rich
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 18:15:44 -0400
From: Mark Frouhar <mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: rear wheel bearing replacement VR4
 
It's not terrible, but if things are really seized it can be challenging I suppose. 
You'll need to get the caliper/rotor off, then you'll either have to hammer slide the axle out or carefully hammer it from the other side(inwards) after  disconnecting the
four bolts that couple it.  You will definitely want to press off the old and press on
the new bearing, that sucker is a real interference fit.  The shop charged me $20 or
so to do that.  Take notes on where the bearing hat (dust cover) goes.
 
 good luck
 
  -Mark Frouhar
   95' VR4
   The 2700lb 85 TA
   http://legoland.fbody.com
 
"Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
> how difficult is the rear wheel bearing replacement on the VR4? I've
> done the front wheel bearings, but understand the rear ones have to be
> pressed in and pulled out possibly at a machine shop.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:38:23 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need 2 cheep mufflers! Personal experience request  :)
 
ok, then what cheep muffler will fit on the passenger side? Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 Member #4909
- ----- Original Message -----
> Actually, I think your muffler choice will be based on which one will
> fit on the passenger side. There is not a lot of room over there.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 20:03:16 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
> I ran 560 injectors and a HKS fuel pump without a fuel controller for
> at least a year. Although I had already upgraded my turbos, it ran
> fine.
 
That's not at all a typical response.  Are you sure they were actually 560's?
 
My car won't run over 4000 RPM without fuel control, and if it went to boost it would blow nice clouds of hydrocarbon enriched black smoke.  I can't  comprehend how it could be fine with 30%+ too much fuel.  I've heard many stories of people attempting to do that and then wondering why their car runs like  crap.
 
I still recommend to do it right the first time.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 14:36:18 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
Nearly right,
 
L meaning inductance.
Xl meaning inductive reactance
 
To calculate impedance you need to know reactance (x)& resistance (r) X squared + R squared = Z squared where Z = impedance.
 
Realistically though you just use the resistance values for speakers which are just a bit lower than the impedance figures.Don't go adding extra speakers to  a standard stereo either, I'll guarantee you'll blow it up.
 
Steve
 
> It will also work in a purely resistive AC circuit. The problem is
> that speakers are not purely resistive. To the contrary, speaker coils
> are INDUCTORS, and have inductance. INDUCTANCE is a function of
> frequency, just as you noted.  it is computed using the formula
> Xl=2(Pi)FL Xl meaning inductance Reactance Pi meaning Pi
> F meaning frequency
> L meaning reluctance (An inherent quality of a coil).
>
> With these thoughts in mind you can see that the overall circuit
> impedance will in fact vary depending on frequency. It gets even more
> complicated once we add capacitors. Capacitive reactance is given
> by the formula Xc=1/(2(Pi)FC)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 18:03:52 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
> They found another gasket that seems to work fairly well. It is almost
> identical to the Mitsu gasket, but fits much tighter.
 
Rich,
 
Many folks would be interested in the gasket they used.  Any info would be very helpful and would be a candidate for our FAQs.
 
Thanks,
Ken
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 18:07:51 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Idle Speed at 1200RPM
 
Be sure to check that big screw with the o-ring that is in the throttle body.  As it backs out (just before it usually blows out), the RPM will rise.  Try  screwing it back in to see if the RPM lowers.  Don't turn it all the way in though, leave it out a couple of turns.
 
Good luck,
Ken
 
> For the last couple weeks, my idle has been a little high
> (1100-1400RPM) and usually sits at 1200RPM.  It doesn't
> hunt and it doesn't make funny noises; it's just high.
> When I turn on the A/C, the idle kicks up to 1500RPM and
> is stable there.  The car never stalls, dies, or exhibits
> momentarily low idle when transitioning to closed-throttle
> conditions.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:32:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
Curious whats kept you from just plain upgrading...
 
On Mon, 7 Oct 2002, Ken Middaugh wrote:
 
> > They found another gasket that seems to work fairly well. It is
> > almost identical to the Mitsu gasket, but fits much tighter.
>
> Rich,
>
> Many folks would be interested in the gasket they used.  Any info
> would be very helpful and would be a candidate for our FAQs.
>
> Thanks,
> Ken
 
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available for MK3 supras NOW! Check out http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html for details. This is the only planned  purchase -ever- of these, until October 5th.
***
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:47:07 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
> Curious whats kept you from just plain upgrading...
 
Upgrading the Y-pipe is a waste of cash if you don't have larger intercooler piping.  Getting a Y-pipe that is the same input sizes as stock is even more a  waste.  Stock pipe works fine well past 25 psi with a good unmolested gasket and a strong clamp.  Put the $200 in the "buy some real turbos" fund instead.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:48:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
Well, could have been cheaper than a new motor for Merrit..worst case.
 
On Mon, 7 Oct 2002, Matt Jannusch wrote:
 
> Upgrading the Y-pipe is a waste of cash if you don't have larger
> intercooler piping.  Getting a Y-pipe that is the same input sizes as
> stock is even more a waste.  Stock pipe works fine well past 25 psi
> with a good unmolested gasket and a strong clamp.  Put the $200 in the
> "buy some real turbos" fund instead.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available for MK3 supras NOW! Check out http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html for details. This is the only planned  purchase -ever- of these, until October 5th.
***
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 19:51:46 -0700
From: "Shawn Keren" <nouveau3@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
My little company (Drunken Bear Auto Accessories) actually markets a Ypipe gasket replacement kit. The kit will not come off even under high boost. This kit  goes for $18 plus shipping, if anyone is interested I can send pics.
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: My car ate the Y pipe
 
>Sounds like there's something else wrong in the intake.
>What gasket did they use to repair the Y-pipe?  The
>Mitsu gasket is pretty much the only thing that works
>unless you completely redo it with some intercooler
>coupling hose or something along those lines.
 
They found another gasket that seems to work fairly well. It is almost identical to the Mitsu gasket, but fits much tighter.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 00:03:24 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Which Rims for Road Course Racing
 
Hey Rich - those 17" wheels you sold me were loaned to a friend for AutoX use this summer since I was away from the road circuit all year. They certainly are  my first choice for road tires (strong, durable, chipping enough I don't shine them like the 18s, and wide enough to easily hold a 265-wide tire if  necessary).  They also double as my winter wheel set with Bridgestone Blizzaks on the car so the salt does not bother me anymore.  Thanks again for selling  them and they are holding up well.
 
I saw a set of Moda wheels on Joel's car up at the Cape Cod gathering this past weekend and was impressed with them.  "Thin" spokes that were not hollow like  the 18" chrome ones but solid and very beefy and strong but thin enough to allow lots of air in there.  If they are made in 17" then they would be very good  similar to the, I think, Forgeline design and maybe the SSR that you have, Rich.  All very similar designs.
 
- --Flash!
Rich's old 17" wheels as track/winter wheel
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 00:43
Subject: Re: Team3S: Which Rims for Road Course Racing
 
Buy a set of 94+ 17 in. wheels for your race tires. A set of rusty, flaky chromies would be fine. So would SL wheels, ugly as they are. There are zillions of  race tires available for 17 in. wheels at a reasonable price.
 
I ran 97 SL wheels for two years until I sold them to Flash, and he's still running on them!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 06:05:23 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
Anthony - I know you have said you only want to replace stock components, but I think you can see from this thread that stereo design is not as simple as it  looks. If you put in the wrong components or use wrong values you can damage your system. I am not saying "don't do it". All I am saying is that if you  cannot replace parts with exactly the same parts, then it would be wise to check with a professional as to what to do. It will be cheap insurance.
 
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
 
| Nearly right,
|
| L meaning inductance.
| Xl meaning inductive reactance
|
| To calculate impedance you need to know reactance (x)& resistance (r)
| X squared + R squared = Z squared where Z = impedance.
|
| Realistically though you just use the resistance values for speakers
| which are just a bit lower than the impedance figures.Don't go adding
| extra speakers to a standard stereo either, I'll guarantee you'll blow
| it up.
|
| Steve
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 08:40:18 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: rear wheel bearing replacement VR4
 
Thanks!  Satan wants $300 labor and $100 parts to change them both.  I have to decide if that is worth the trouble.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Frouhar [mailto:mfrouhar@bear.com]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rear wheel bearing replacement VR4
 
It's not terrible, but if things are really seized it can be challenging I suppose. 
You'll need to get the caliper/rotor off, then you'll either have to hammer slide the axle out or carefully hammer it from the other side(inwards) after  disconnecting the
four bolts that couple it.  You will definitely want to press off the old and press on
the new bearing, that sucker is a real interference fit.  The shop charged me $20 or
so to do that.  Take notes on where the bearing hat (dust cover) goes.
 
 good luck
 
  -Mark Frouhar
   95' VR4
   The 2700lb 85 TA
   http://legoland.fbody.com
 
"Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
> how difficult is the rear wheel bearing replacement on the VR4? I've
> done the front wheel bearings, but understand the rear ones have to be
> pressed in and pulled out possibly at a machine shop.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 18:03:34 +0400
From: Andrew Spargo <spargo@emirates.net.ae>
Subject: Team3S: Was suspension knock
 
Thanks to Jim, Bob & David(also in the U.A.E) for the advice, having looked at these E shaped rubbers closely myself, I think I can explain why it appears no  one else appears to have them fitted. I now realize these rubbers are almost the whole length of our front coil springs (didn't realize the front springs  were that short), the result is that there is very little travel of the front coils with these fitted. I am guessing now that these are in fact "transit  blocks" that should be removed once the vehicle reaches its destination (or during the PDI inspection).
 I am waiting with interest the reply from the local dealer (who I purchased it from brand new, almost 3 years ago) who has sent an email to Japan  asking them for the part number so they can replace the missing one. I have asked them to check the front suspension for the last 2 years but they have never  found any fault. I have removed the other 3 and enjoyed the comfortable ride back (always thought the 3000GT had stiff suspension!!!!!!!). Many thanks to  those who put me on the right path.
 
Andy Spargo
(who will find out for Jim how our cars run with no O2 sensors)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #966
***************************************