Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, October 7
2002 Volume 01 : Number 965
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 11:43:45 -0400
From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suspension knock on 1999 VR4 (Middle East specs.)
I have my stock suspension in a storage bin in the garage. There are
no
blocks in the springs. My former '99SL did not have them
either. Hope
someone else can give you some ideas of what your "knock"
is. You might
give us a little more description on when the knock
occurs and what you
fell and hear.
bob
'99VR-4
- ----------
>From: Andrew Spargo <
spargo@emirates.net.ae>
>Subject:
Team3S: Suspension knock on 1999 VR4 (Middle East specs.)
>Date: Sun, Oct
6, 2002, 11:24 AM
> I wonder if anyone on the list can help the dealership here in the
> U.A.E. They reckon the suspension knock coming from the drivers side
> front suspension is due to a missing rubber block that should be
> fitted between the coils on the front suspension coil spring. These
> blocks look like a big letter 'E' approx. 6" tall and 1" wide, with
> circles in the end where the coils on the spring fit in, there should
> be 2 on each side. I only have 1 on the drivers side, their trouble is
> that according to their 'CAPS' this vehicle does not have these fitted
> (in fact no 3000GT has them fitted because they are not even shown).
> So can anyone on the list give them a hand and pass on a part number
> etc. They have resorted to taking photos and are sending them to Japan
> for help. Or is this another, "special for the Middle East
mod.?"
>
> Andy Spargo
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 08:40:29 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension knock on 1999 VR4 (Middle East specs.)
What you're describing sounds like a spring spacer or spring rubber.
They
are used to make the spring harder to compress --- in effect it
increases
the spring rate. NASCAR teams use them during the race to change
the
suspension setup and alter handling. In your case if there is only a
spacer
on one side someone may have tried to correct a sagging spring or
maybe one
side of the care was lower than the other.
The lack of one shouldn't cause any noise problems unless the springs
are damaged or altered [ maybe someone heated the springs to lower the car
].
Jim Berry
====================================================
------------------------------
Look elsewhere. I don't think the E is the problem.
If you did not buy this car new, perhaps the previous owner replaced the
springs
with Eibachs. If so, the big rubber prophylactic is probably missing,
and you can
see the springs (my 94 had rubber covers over the springs, so I
assume yours did
too).
What happens with my Eibachs is that dirt and crud get onto the top spring
landing,
and then make crunchy, grinding, squeak-squawk noises. Being in
Middle East, you
have a little bit of sand on the road, which might do the
same thing.
My cure is to jack the car up, and remove the front wheels. The springs
(being
shorter than stock), will fall away from the top spring landing, so I
can clean
them easily.
If your springs don't fall away easily, then you might try cleaning the top
and
bottom landings with compressed air. In any case, see if cleaning the
landings
eliminates the noise.
If so, then there are two possible solutions:
1. Find a tough rubber hose the same size as the springs, and encase the
top and
bottom of the spring in rubber.
2. Fabricate a prophylactic from
an old inner tube or whatever to encase the entire
spring and keep the sand
out. You may have to remove the strut and spring to install
this.
Just lubricating the landing won't work, because it will attract more sand.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 15:29:09 US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension knock on 1999 VR4 (Middle East specs.)
Andrew - since you offer more description of the problem - I hope you won't
mind me sharing your message.
Based on Andrew's response (below)
I would suspect misalignment of the
upper and lower strut mounts. Because the
angle of the upper mount is
critical to rotation, and the upper mount is not
perpendicular to the strut,
alignment of the upper and lower mounts is
required. There are sight
holes in the upper and lower spring perch to aid the
alignment and the upper
perch can only be installed in one orientation to
eliminate binding in the
bearing of the upper mount. To fix this may require
removal of the
strut assembly and compression of the spring to freely rotate
the two
perches to the aligned position.
Anyone agree or offer an easier "try this first"
Bob
'99VR-4
Hi Bob
The knock always occurs at low speeds (10-25kph) normally
turning a
corner.
It is clearly felt on the left foot as though it is
coming through the bodywork
(not a steering fault). The last time I came
across it the top mount on the
McPherson strut was loose - but they say this
is not the problem. Thanks for the
quick reply, much appreciated.
Andy
> What you're describing sounds like a spring spacer or spring
rubber.
> They are used to make the spring harder to compress --- in
effect it
> increases the spring rate. NASCAR teams use them during the
race to
> change the suspension setup and alter handling. In your case if
there
> is only a spacer on one side someone may have tried to correct a
> sagging spring or maybe one side of the care was lower than the
other.
>
> The lack of one shouldn't cause any noise problems
unless the springs
> are damaged or altered [ maybe someone heated the
springs to lower
> the car ].
>
> Jim Berry
====================================================
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 12:30:47 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension knock on 1999 VR4 (Middle East specs.)
It still sounds like a spring rubber --- is this rubber E a hard rubber
compound
or soft and pliant. Where does it attach to the spring --- between
two coils or
in multiple places. Hell, I still can't figure out how your car
functions without
O2 sensors. The loose top mount/bearing assembly would be
my choice.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Andrew Spargo" <
spargo@emirates.net.ae>
Sent:
Sunday, October 06, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Suspension knock on
1999 VR4 (Middle East specs.)
> Hi Jim
> Sorry I should have made it clearer, I have 2 on the
passengers side
> but only 1 on the drivers side. The suspension "clunk"
sounds like a
> loose top mount (to me) but the dealer wants to fit
another rubber
> block first, the only trouble is that he has no part
number. The car
> was purchased brand new by me and no-one has touched
that suspension,
> so we assume it has been missing since manufacture.
Thanks for the
> prompt reply, much appreciated.
>
>
Andy
------------------------------
After talking to some people, they recommended JBL GTO605C or C608GTI as
being the
easiest to install with minor modifications. Which would be better
?
But I was wondering a few things. My car is the 1997 VR-4 with the
amp under the
front passenger seat.
Do I need the JBL crossover or not ?
I noticed the JBL speakers have an 4 Ohm Impedance, is that the same as our
stock
speakers ?
Any tips or other help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
I'm only getting 6psi boost max, I've got a aftermarket gauge. The car is a
91 GTO,
what could the problem be, When I got the car the solenoid valve
wasn't connected
but I have connected it now, do I have to reset the ECU or
should it just start
working. I tried a manual boost controller to increase
boost but even when it peaks
at 10 it quickly drops to 6psi. Any help would
be highly appreciated.
Joel.
------------------------------
1) Pressure dropping from max is normal..stock turbos fall off
quickly.
2) What mods do you have?
3) What boost gauge is it?
Autometer??
On Mon, 7 Oct 2002, Joel Singh wrote:
> I'm only getting 6psi boost max, I've got a aftermarket gauge. The car
> is a 91 GTO, what could the problem be, When I got the car the
>
solenoid valve wasn't connected but I have connected it now, do I
> have
to reset the ECU or should it just start working. I tried a
> manual
boost controller to increase boost but even when it peaks at 10
> it
quickly drops to 6psi. Any help would be highly appreciated.
>
>
Joel.
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available
for MK3 supras NOW! Check out
http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html
for details. This is the only planned
purchase -ever- of these, until October
5th.
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 01:35:12 -0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Boost problem
Regardless of gauge type or turbo config he should be able to hold 10+PSI
from
3500-5500, I do. I had a similar problem. I think there is something
wrong with
the solenoid. Ether hoses plugged in backwards, or the wire lose
or something...
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From: Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Monday,
October 07, 2002 3:03 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost problem
1) Pressure dropping from max is normal..stock turbos fall off
quickly.
2) What mods do you have?
3) What boost gauge is
it? Autometer??
On Mon, 7 Oct 2002, Joel Singh wrote:
> I'm only getting 6psi boost max, I've got a aftermarket gauge. The car
> is a 91 GTO, what could the problem be, When I got the car the solenoid
> valve wasn't connected but I have connected it now, do I have to reset
> the ECU or should it just start working. I tried a manual boost
controller
> to increase boost but even when it peaks at 10 it quickly
drops to 6psi.
> Any help would be highly appreciated.
>
>
Joel.
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available
for MK3 supras NOW! Check out
http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html
for details. This is the only planned
purchase -ever- of these, until October
5th.
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 03:56:18 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need 2 cheep mufflers! Personal experience request :)
Alright, first off let me tell you about the rest of the exhaust system.
I'm
getting a true duel exhaust, completely separate 2 1/2" pipes from each
turbo
back. Therefore muffler choice is passed on the fact that I need 2 of
them and
my money tree burned down. :) These are the ones I'm looking at
right now,
also note that this IS a nearly daily driver, so Db can't be
outrageous, so
share any experiences you guy's have or have heard of. MOROSO
Spiral Flow Muffler
$44.99 DYNOMAX 4" Round Bullet Muffler $31.99 DYNOMAX 6"
Round Welded Ultra Flo
$69.99 Split-Flow Racing Muffler $89.99 (Supposedly
straight through with very low
Db)
Also if anyone knows of a fairly cheep
muffler that would work good on a turbo
car let me know about it :) All
prices are quoted from Jeg's Thanks for the help
guys Donald Ashby '93 3000GT
VR-4 Member #1315
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 14:01:58 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: One of
the fastest for sale!!
Long time has passed since November 97 when I bought my Red Mitsubishi
3000GT
VR-4. This car has treated me very well and have given my much joy.
Thanks to
the 3S community I have also met (both in IRL and on the net) many
new friends
all over the world. But time goes on and I have decided to move
on from the 3S
community into the world of "real performance" :) ... so my
wonderful car and
all parts are now out for sale.
The car is very quick. Second time at the drag strip I did
11.12@131mph. With a
better launch and a few
driver mistakes less (hmpfrr...) it will easily be
deep in the tens.
I want to sell all this in as big package as possible.
If you are seriously interested in these parts please contact me by
email
mikael@3000gt.nu
Engine related parts:
- Highly modified heads (can't be better)
- Pauter Rods
- Ross
Pistons
- Bigger intake valves (very big)
- Fidanza adjustable Cam
gears
- Unorthodox Pulley
- Custom made front mount Intercooler with
pipes
- 18T+ special Turbos
- Custom made stainless headers
- DNP
Precat eliminators
- Custom made dual 2'5 pipe exhaust system (all way)
-
Dual Walbro fuel pumps
- Denso 720 injectors
- M&W Pro 14 CDI
ignition
- Autronic SM2 engine management system
- Blitz DSBC Boost
controller
- Greddy Type R blow off
- Greddy catch can
- AN10
teflon/steel braided fuel line from tank to filter
- Dual AN6 teflon/steel
from filter to rails
- Dual AN 6 teflon/steel from rails to FPR
- Fidanza
aluminium fly wheel
- SX fuel filter
- SX fuel pressure regulator
-
PiperX air filter (x2)
- Magnecore ignition cables
- Electrical ultra thin
racing fans
Drive line parts:
- Sachs twin disc clutch (holds 1280 Nm!!)
- Carbon fiber drive shaft
PST
- Spare Carbon fiber drive shaft ACPT
- Complete 5 to 6 speed
conversion
- 6 speed gear box with Kormex front limited slip Diff
- Cast
steel transfercase
Suspension and body parts etc:
- JIC Coil over suspension (kicks Teins ass)
- Autometer gauges
rpm,boost,egt, oil press, oil and water temp. Wheels
- 18"x9" OZ Superlegera
(extremely light) with (R tire) Bridgestone
- RE540 245/40-18 Snapp off
steering wheel and hub Custom made front
- Stock 99 rear wing Pagid Orange
pads Bremsa Front rotors
(most of the parts are almost new)
Add new cams and valve springs to the package and your car will be
a
record holder!
------------------------------
I'm thinking about gutting the pre cats and the main cat, will the
car
become much louder, will I notice the difference in the flow,
will I get any
more power gain from this? Does it increase boost
at all ? thanks,
Joel.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 08:58:01 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
Anthony: I am almost positive our stock setup is 4 ohm. As
for
the crossover, you are generally always better off using the
crossover
supplied by the speaker manufacturer, as the manufacturer
is most
knowledgeable about its speaker's characteristics and
capabilities. Did
you decide to change the tweeter AND the woofers,
but keep the stock amp,
etc.? The reason I am asking is that it
you're keeping everything
stock and just changing out the front
speakers, you should try to make sure
that your new speakers closely
match the sensitivity rating of the old stock
speakers. If not,
there may be a noticeable volume difference between
the front and
the back at the same power. In other words, feeding a 4
ohm speaker
with an 86 db sensitivity rating 10 watts will sound quieter
than
feeding a 4 ohm speaker with a higher sensitivity rating the same
10
watts. The greater the difference in sensitivity, the more
noticeable
the difference in volume. You can, of course, compensate
for this by
adjusting the fader, but by doing so you'll lose some
power from your amp.
This was an issue for me when I changed out my entire system.
I
installed Polk 6-3/4" component woofers and tweeters in the front,
and
Polk 6x9's in the rear. The fronts were rated at 86db
sensitivity,
while the rears were 91db. Recognizing a very noticeable
difference
in volume, I decided to bypass the amplifier in my receiver (It's
a
Kenwood Excelon), and install two separate amplifiers to power the
front
and rear speakers. That way I can set the sensitivity and
output
controls on my amps to equalize out the power.
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
[mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2002 6:17
PM
Subject: Team3S: speaker replacement help needed
After talking to some people, they recommended JBL GTO605C or C608GTI
as
being the easiest to install with minor modifications. Which would
be better
?
But I was wondering a few things. My car is the 1997 VR-4 with
the
amp under the front passenger seat.
Do I need the JBL crossover or not ?
I noticed the JBL speakers have an 4 Ohm Impedance, is that the same
as
our stock speakers ?
Any tips or other help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
Actually, I think your muffler choice will be based on which one
will
fit on the passenger side. There is not a lot of room over there.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#965
***************************************