Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, October 2 2002 Volume
01 : Number 961
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 13:42:51 EDT
From:
CzarTT@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Speakers
in a 3si
> Thanks, it looks like a 94' SL for me anyways. And about the
>
infinitys', ive
>
> always been a sound guy, and in my current car
i have 6 infinity kappa
> perfect 5.25 (5 1/4) - yay for ebay, got em for
less than 1000 - but should
>
> i just sell them with my car right
now and get more for it or take
> them out
>
> and use them
in the 3000GT, what size do they take and what does the
> stock
>
system sound like? I am a perfectionist on some things, so if the system in
>
> the 3000 is just average let me know.
> Thanks for the
help, i worked way too long for the $$ too make a rash
> decision
>
> -Toby
> 86' Corolla SR5
> GT-S Engine Swap
> Toxico
Front and Rear Sways
> Injen Custom Intake
> Weapon R
Muffler
> Custom Cat Back - Custom Cams
> Port, and Polish
>
Custom 6 Speaker Setup - Infinity * 6
> Two Alpine Type R 12's
>
Alpine V12 1000 Watt Amp
Keep them, those are really good speakers
------------------------------
I'm sorry to post this, I haven't been getting e-mails through 3S.
Curtis McConnell
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 23:54:10 -0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
help with free car facts report
Hi guys,
I would like to run a vin and was wondering
if anyone knew of a website link for free vin checks or car facts report.
Thanks in advance,
Scott
94 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 14:05:39 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Spark timing
Anyone have any good info / webpages on how to optimize / set spark timing?
I think it is the missing piece to my 'slow' 13.3sec car.
Thanks!
Ken
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si
Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky
Injection
Improved Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight
17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug
plate, license plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
98/99 COOLANT TANK
(6/26/02)
Best (pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned
alky)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 09:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adam Knowlton <
knowltodu@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dealer being a sheister?
Well it turns out I spun the #3 bearing and got a call
from the dealer
today. Guess what they said, that's
right, You need a new
engine!!!! I had talked to the
dealer earlier about my problem and he
said that there
was an aftermarket crank kit that would fix a
spun
bearing. Any input or advice would be
greatly
appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Adam
'92 Stealth R/T TT
(taking up space at the mitsu garage)
------------------------------
Can anybody give me a definitive answer on the use of GL-5 spec oil in the
gearbox of my 1998 3000GT VR4? It's just been rebuilt by Mitsubishi in
Dubai, and that's the only spec. synthetic we can get here. Does it
really "damage" the synchromesh?
In passing, if you're having problems sourcing gearbox parts, I recommend
MD Auto of San Diego, who sent over a part that even Mitsubishi Japan
couldn't supply in less than 3 months. Friendly, good service.
David
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 16:58:44 -0700
From: "cris lamas" <
bigcela@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: air
i was wondering if it was possible to put the active aero spoiler and
damper
on a 92 3000gt sl. also i want to upgrade my intake and was wondering
which
intake is better, the k&N or the stillen.
thanks
cris
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 16:57:23 -0500
From: "Toby Schoonover" <
toby92vr4@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Airbags, Thanks
I had guessed as much about the pricing, but thanks to your significant
amount of replys and advice that I printed (with some subtractions in the
300+ HP muscle car area), my parents have agreed to letting me buy a
1st
generation 3000gt VR4, under the provisions that I take out the passenger
seat, which is not a problem since my girlfriend has a new tiburon that we
always take and my friends can sit where the seat used to be for all i care
about their comfort :).
All I have to do is find the car now,
thank
you all for the help,
A very appreciative,
Toby
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 13:56:34 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
stock bov - how to vent to atmosphere?
I'd like to make my stock BOV vent to the air rather than back to the
intake. Do I remove the rubber hose leading to the y-pipe, and cap the opening,
or the other end that comes from the intercooler junction?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
in the exhaust shop now :)
------------------------------
Can anybody give me a definitive answer on the use of GL-5 spec oil in the
gearbox of my 1998 3000GT VR4? It's just been rebuilt by Mitsubishi in
Dubai, and that's the only spec. synthetic we can get here.
In passing, if you're having problems sourcing gearbox parts, I recommend
MD Auto of San Diego, who sent over a part that even Mitsubishi Japan
couldn't supply. Friendly, good service.
David
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 19:52:25 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 15G rebuilders?
> Anyone have any experience getting a pair of 15G's rebuilt?
Nobody has ever sent their turbos out to get rebuilt?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
A recent thread discussed how rental car agencies track you with GPS. This
might solve the problem, if anyone knows how to find the $39.99 device on
the Internet.
Rich/slow old poop
_____________________________
U.S. Military's GPS Reliance
Makes a Cheap, Easy Target
By ANNE MARIE SQUEO
Staff Reporter of THE WALL STREET
JOURNAL
The hugely successful satellite-based technology that has
enabled a growing number of U.S. bombs to hit their targets may be vulnerable to
a kind of jammer available through the Internet for $39.99.
That could mean potential problems in any invasion of Iraq. In recent
months, the Pentagon has stepped up orders for precision-guided bombs that
use Global Positioning System satellites to hit targets with pinpoint
accuracy, and is expected to rely on them for surgical strikes on Saddam
Hussein's military infrastructure.
Bombs that use GPS-guidance systems were employed heavily in the U.S.
campaign in Afghanistan. Air Force officials estimate 95% of Boeing's Joint
Direct Attack Munitions landed within 10 to 30 feet of their targets, well
above performance thresholds originally set for the weapons.
But with Iraq expected to force the U.S. to fight in the tight spaces of
Baghdad -- as opposed to the expansive desert where most clashes took
place during the Gulf War -- highly accurate weapons could mean the
difference between hitting a hospital and a military building. But the more
reliant the U.S. has become on GPS over the past decade, for both military
and civilian use, the more people have developed systems that can misdirect or
even stymie the technology.
GPS "jammers," now available via the Internet for as little as $39.99, can
easily interrupt the signal coming from the satellite system in a local
area. At the Paris Air Show in 1999, a Russian company called
Aviaconversia demonstrated a 4-watt GPS jammer, weighing about 19 pounds,
capable of denying GPS reception for more than 100 miles. (By comparison,
most hair dryers today have at least 18 watts of power.)
That has caught the attention of military officials and politicians alike.
"We believe Saddam Hussein has GPS-jamming capability and that he will use
it," says Rep. Joseph Pitts (R., Penn.).
He is co-chairman of the Electronic Warfare Working Group, whose members
include 25 congressmen who have been studying GPS vulnerability, among
other issues. "While we do not know the extent of our vulnerability, there
is evidence to suggest that GPS jamming can significantly inhibit
precision targeting," Mr. Pitts added. One congressional staffer noted it
is also possible to "spoof" the system, or provide incorrect satellite readings
that could misdirect a weapon.
Conceived by the military in the late 1970s, GPS is a constellation of 24
satellites that circle the globe twice a day, continuously beaming radio
signals that provide timing and other information to anyone with a
receiver. Air Force Col. Douglas Loverro, who oversees the program, likens it to
"rainwater." But the signals travel 11,000 miles from satellite to Earth's
surface, making them so weak by the time they arrive that a single Christmas
tree light is about 1,000 times as bright.
The current GPS satellites emit two signals -- one dedicated to the
military and another that has been made available to commercial users around
the world, including as a timing device for big computerized networks such
as telecommunications and transportation systems.
The military signal is configured so it is more difficult to interrupt. But
the problem is that the military uses the commercial signal, which is more
readily available, to "find" the military one. And while some efforts are under
way to develop technology that enables aircraft to access the military
signal directly, an Air Force spokesman said that isn't being done now.
"It turns out that intentional jamming is far more of a problem for the
military than civilian users," says Col. Loverro.
Military officials refuse to say whether GPS signals have been jammed in
battle and what specific fixes are being put in place, citing the
classified nature of such information. They admit that concerns about the
system's vulnerability are taking on increased prominence, especially as they
relate to Iraq.
"Everyone knows how successful these [JDAM] weapons are so we know that
they are going to try to take them away from us," says Richard Walley, chief
of program development for the Pentagon's JDAM program office. Both the
Navy and Air Force use JDAMs.
The only bona fide fix is strengthening signal power. Such efforts are
under way, with the Air Force planning three stages of upgraded satellites over
the next 10 to 15 years. The launch of these spacecraft has been delayed
in part because the current fleet has lasted longer than expected.
Technical challenges and budgetary decisions have also played a role in
the delays.
- -- Greg Jaffe contributed to this article.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 14:12:02 -0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Electronic Superchargers
I have seen these "electronic superchargers" on Ebay and often wondered how
if at all they can aid performance on a forced induction turbo charged car?
They are basically a fan that blows directly into your intake, could that
allow the turbo to spool as the car is at a stop so you take off with full
boost? Anyone have one or try one yet? I only receive the digest version now
so if you want you can reply to me directly or I will read it
tomorrow.
Thanks,
TNT3KGT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 10:22:12 -0500
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S: List
probs
I'm not getting any list messages. Could an admin please get back to me
in private?
Thanks, Dave
------------------------------
Well, one of my front speakers on my 1997 VR-4 blew out today. While
listening to the radio, I started hearing rattling and broken audio.
Since that is the case, I may as well replace all the speakers, but I have
not been able to find the small dash speakers in the crutchfield listing.
I want to keep everything stock, and am looking for replacement speakers
only as I am on a serious budget.
Can anyone offer suggestions ?
------------------------------
Hey guys I was at NOPI in Atlanta earlier and saw three 3kgts with this mod
on it. The vertical lift system. Some of you are familiar with
it, to those
that are not here is a thread: <A HREF="
http://www.importprecision.com/">Welcome
to Import Precision.com - Home of the
VLS</A> . Would like to
get some sort of group buy started. Anyone interested?
James
99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Hi All,
On Saturday, a few (16) guys from the U.K. GTO club (
http://uk.3si.org/) went to get our cars
dyno'd. We were a little surprised by the results.
A couple of people who went had had their car done last year (at a
different
venue) and the results from back then were as you would
expect. A otherwise standard TT GTO (Japanese version of the 3000GT TT)
with a K&N was producing between 300 and 320 BHP, but the same car
(with no different mod's etc) was only getting around 270-280 BHP. It was
a cool day, so I don't think air temperature was a problem.
I know dyno's are only accurate (and repeatable?) to around 5%, but these
differences seem quite a long way off to me. What do you guys think?
I've posted my sheet at the link below, and would be interested in your
comments. I've listed my mod's below as well. My car is a '94 GTO TT
MR, which although a 2nd Gen shape, is a 5 speed. Interestingly, my
drivetrain losses (green line on the graph) were around 25-30 HP less than all
the other cars run (all were around 100-110BHP at 6000 rpm regardless of 5
or 6 speed). Unfortunately, mine was the only MR there, but I suspect it
is because the gearing is different for this variant (look at the speed /
rev figures for peak torque and hp).
Mods:
K&N
HKS downpipe, no cats (pre or main)
HKS Super Drager
exhaust
Blitz DSBC running at 1.0 bar
Max Power at 5240 rpm 293BHP
Max torque at 3020 rpm 321
lb/ft
They actually did two runs in my car (the sheet is the second). The
first, everything seemed fine, but the dyno recorded a peak power of 240BHP
and torque of 300 lb/ft. The second run was done minutes afterwards
and gave the results above!?
Your comments would be of great interest.
Simon Jones
'94 GTO
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 09:35:10 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Paint Code
Good morning 3s world. Does anyone know the paint code for
my 93
firestorm red TT AWD. It can be seen at andrewwoll.com/stealth003.jpg
Thanks
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 23:59:49 EDT
From: <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Airbags
Pricewise - think of it this way:
In any car, when the airbag deploys, it costs close to $800 to replace it.
Now add in the cost of a new steering wheel. Add the cost of impact sensors,
add the cost of the control circuitry. And if the airbag is controlled
directly by the ecu (i don't know if it is) then you need a second gen ecu,
and you need to adapt the second gen ecu to a first gen car which is a
separate issue in and of itself...
Frankly i think it'd be cheaper to buy a second gen...
either that or get a race seat with a 5pt harness and a full cage... it'd
still be cheaper... :)
I wouldn't be surprised if you're looking at over 2k for parts and i don't
know how much in labor - all that wiring has got to be fun...
Plus there've got to be some sort of government regs on this - if the
installer does a shoddy job, you're driving on top of a time bomb - talk
about safety then!
Just tell your parents it's a 4000lb tank that handles better in the snow
than most SUVs - i should know i've driven down enough unplowed
highways
Alex
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 13:26:06 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lucas oil stabilizer
OK, nobody has chipped in, so I will. I have no actual knowledge of
Lucas products good or bad. I have seen the funky gear gizmos displaying
Lucas properties at Pep Boys.
My take is this. If you think you need this then why not just use a
higher viscosity? The stability of todays synthetics or even partial synthetics
are more than enough to last an oil change. 3000-6000 depending on driving
conditions.
If you have seen the 'gear' test, and if you believe that counter top
conditions reflect engine internal conditions, and you agree that oil
'stickiness' is good(I don't) then go for it.
At this time I'm inclined to think it might do more harm than good, until
proven otherwise by third parties or factual in car or dyno tests.
Kurt 96 NT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kimberly Byrd
[mailto:kimbyrd@webtv.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 10:16 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Lucas oil stabilizer
I have never used Lucas oil stabilizer, but it was recommended to me by a
guy at Advance auto. Has anyone used it? Is it good for our 3000GT motors?
I have a 1994 non-turbo 3000GT.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:22:55 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure
The short of it:
My newly installed fuel pressure gauge shows my *differential* (across
the
injectors) fuel pressure drops as low as 34psi at mid to high RPM under
full throttle. Stock rating is 43psi (differential pressure), so this
concerns me - either my gauge is FOS, something is installed incorrectly,
or I have fuel issues.
My car:
* 1995 VR-4, 60,000mi
* 100% stock
fuel system except for fuel
pressure sensor installed in
fuel rail
feed line.
* Boost
pressure max 0.95kg/cm^2, falls
off to 0.7x at redline
(normal)
* Vacuum hoses triple-checked for
leaks
(incl. FPR, boost gauge, and all
other
plenum attachments).
* **Runs
great** - no different than it
has for the last 6
months. Pulls strong
and comparably to other VR-4s
I've
ridden in and/or driven with.
* A/F
gauge in front bank downpipe reads
normal (around 12:1 at
WOT, sometimes
gets a little leaner at the high
end,
but I suspected that this was due to
rising EGTs affecting the sensor)
* Fuel
pressure gauge able to read absolute
or differential
pressure
* Differential fuel pressure does not
fall
off if I maintain partial throttle
(still
enough for open-loop) with 0.5+
kg/cm^2
of boost. Seems to be only at or near
WOT.
* No pinging, timing retard, (that I
can
tell), no nasty noises, no broken
pistons,
fluid leaks, etc.
* See sig below
for complete modifications.
The Fuel Pressure Gauge:
* Defi BF
series gauge, v2 Control Unit
* Control unit can use reading from
boost
sensor to calculate and
display
differential fuel pressure if
desired
* Electronic sending unit (3-wire)
*
Sending unit installed in female port of
1/4" NPT brass
tee fitting with 5/16"
barbs on the other two branches
that are
connected to the high-pressure rubber
fuel line between the fuel filter
and
the front bank fuel rail.
Possible Explanations:
1) Sending unit experiencing eddy
currents
in tee fitting and getting
erratic
readings under high-flow conditions?
2)
Low voltage at fuel pump causing flow issues?
3) Broken
Gauge?
4) Bad FPR (grasping at straws...)?
5) Clogged Fuel
Filter (original one, I think)
Check out possible explanations:
1) Install 12" long hose in
tee fitting to locate
sensor away from the flow in the
fuel line.
2) Check voltage at fuel pump
3) Try another
gauge/sensor?
4) Test FPR (at least with engine idling using
a
hand pump).
5) Replace fuel filter
Anybody got any other insights or things I should look at? Any of the
explanations listed above look like complete garbage? Any look like a
real possibility? Explanations I haven't thought of?
Thanks,
- --Erik
=========================================================
'95 Glacier
White Pearl
VR-4
60,000mi
-
---------------------------------------------------------
Intake:
*
K&N FIPK, GReddy TypeS BPV
Exhaust:
* Stillen Downpipe,
High-flow Rear Pre-cat
Engine:
* Magnacor KV85 Spark Plug
Wires
* Krankvent Upgraded PCV Valves
* GReddy Oil
Cap (no leaks!!!)
* HoseTechniques Silicone Vacuum
Hose
* Combined Brake/Clutch Booster Vacuum
Lines
Suspension:
* Saner 29mm Front and 25mm Rear Anti-Sway
Bars
* TEC Front Strut Tower
Brace
Instrumentation:
* Defi BF Boost Gauge - Custom Plenum
Tap
* Defi BF Water Temp Gauge - Spare 3/8" NPT Thermostat
Hole
* Defi BF Oil Temp/Pres Gauge - Permacool Oil
Filter
Sandwich Plate converted to Temp/Pres Sender
Location
* Defi BF Fuel Pressure Gauge - 1/4" NPT Brass
Tee
in Stock Rail Feed Line
* Defi BF EGT -
Tyspeed-Tapped Downpipe (coming 9/28)
* GReddy 60mm P&H
A/F(2), EGT Gauges
Electronics:
* Blitz DSBC (Ratio:54,
Gain:4)
* Defi Boost HUD & Turbo
Timer
Interior:
* Impac-Aero 60mmx3 A-pillar
*
Impac-Aero 60mmx4 Center Gauge
Pod
=========================================================
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 22:48:52 -0400
From: "Rodriguez,
Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Used Turbos + Fuel Prob
I'm gonna shut down my car cuz rear turbo is shot. Anybody got a pair of
stock 9Bs with low mileage collecting dust out here?
Also, my car's running real rich and i've seen a drop in fuel economy.
Everytime i kill the ignition and let the turbo timer do it's trick, i get out
and can smell unburnt fuel. What can I do to start trouble shooting
it?
Finally, the local shop wants an arm and a leg to replace my turbos (when i
get them very very soon hopefully). He quoted me something like $1000-1200,
is it just me or this too high? Anybody know of any decent shops around
NYC?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 21:02:42 EDT
From:
GMightymoose@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
anyone ever seen this??
Hey guys I was at NOPI in Atlanta earlier and saw three 3kgts with this mod
on it. The vertical lift system. Some of you are familiar with
it, to those
that are not here is a thread: <A HREF="
http://www.importprecision.com/">Welcome
to Import Precision.com - Home of the
VLS</A> . Would like to
get some sort of group buy started. Anyone interested?
James
99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 12:40:33 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
stock bov - how to vent to atmosphere?
I figured this BOV thing out. Thanks anyway. So it appears that our site
was down for like 9 days? ... strange. Perhaps it was just my DNS server.
Riyan
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 14:48:16 -0500
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
stock bov - how to vent to atmosphere?
Team3S changed servers, thats all.
On Tuesday, October 1, 2002, at 02:40 PM, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> I figured this BOV thing out. Thanks anyway. So it appears that
our
> site was down for like 9 days? ... strange. Perhaps it was just
my
> DNS server.
>
> Riyan
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 12:49:17 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 15G rebuilders?
Matt (and whoever sent the original post)...
Geoff was doing something with the Team3S server (on the weekend of the
19th) with plans to get it back up on Thursday the 26th. Something must
have happened since this is the first day I've received any posts in
nearly two weeks. Gosh, it's been peaceful. :-)
I've had my TEC 15Gs rebuilt twice. The first time the work was done by
TEC. The second time the work was done here in Portland by my favorite and
trusted mechanic who does the work that I don't have the skill, time, or
equipment for. Incidentally, buying the impellers and bushings and having it
done here was half the cost of sending them to TEC. Is there some other
specific information someone wants???
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 5:52 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G rebuilders?
> Anyone have any experience getting a pair of 15G's rebuilt?
Nobody has ever sent their turbos out to get rebuilt?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
>I've had my TEC 15Gs rebuilt twice. The first time the work was done by
>TEC. The second time the work was done here in Portland by my favorite
>and trusted mechanic who does the work that I don't have the skill,
>time, or equipment for. Incidentally, buying the impellers and bushings
>and having it done here was half the cost of sending them to TEC. Is
>there some other specific information someone
wants???
>
Yeah...why did you have to have the turbos rebuilt TWICE?
Are they really cheap and fall apart regularly, or do put 100,000 miles a year
on your car?
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
(also posted on 3SI)
Next year, at about this time, I want to go back to
the Corvette Club autocross at Hawkeye Downs, take FTD, and break one minute
(the course record, set by a race-prepped Vette a couple of years ago).
It's 1.25 miles around a half mile oval, an inner quarter mile oval, and
then back around the half mile. The half mile is pyloned to keep us in the
low groove, and a gate on the back straight forces us down low. A 1:00.00
time would be a 75+ mph average speed. I am at 1:03.04 right now and had FTD
two weeks ago.
I need a little help in setting up the car for oval track racing. I need to
cut a little more than three seconds off my time.
Changing from Yoko 032R to Kuhmos ought to get me one second.
Increasing boost from 15 psi to 17 psi ought to get me a half-second.
Suspension to date:
550/330 Eibachs, stock shocks, sway bars front and
rear, Ground Control lowered to the max, camber plates.
Here's what I am considering next:
1/8 out on toe (undrivable on
street, I know)
Large RR tire (raises RR, causing LF to grab)
Lower tire
pressure LR (helps car hook in)
Zero camber LF, -2 deg RF (I have camber
plates)
These are import setups for FWDs. Will this work on an AWD car?
All help appreciated.
Rich/slow old poop
94 3000GT VR4
------------------------------
Were back up..with more storage capacity (2Tb) and more bandwidth.
Sorry for the delay, there were shipping damages that required hardware to
be replaced.
NO data was lost, the DNS transition was seamless.
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available
for MK3 supras NOW! Check out
http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html
for details. This is the only planned purchase -ever- of these, until
October 5th.
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 16:33:02 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: speaker replacement recommendation
Ok, that is fine, but is there anything that I can do that will not require
major surgery ?
I have done radio work before, but I am curious about the dash speakers
because of them being stuck in those tight places, and I am sure it will limit
my replacement choices.
Have you, or anyone else, done this replacement, and can you offer
suggestions ?
Unfortunately, there are no direct replacements for the stock dash
speakers.
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
[mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 5:36
PM
To: Team 3S List Submissions
Subject: Team3S: speaker replacement
recommendation
Well, one of my front speakers on my 1997 VR-4 blew out today. While
listening to the radio, I started hearing rattling and broken audio.
Since that is the case, I may as well replace all the speakers, but I have
not been able to find the small dash speakers in the crutchfield listing.
I want to keep everything stock, and am looking for replacement speakers
only as I am on a serious budget.
Can anyone offer suggestions ?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 13:44:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
speaker replacement recommendation
My dash speakers went out and were easily replaced
with the JBL GTO
speakers, they look nicer as well...
search the 3SI forum for a long link about em and the
ease of
install.
Roger L
F15DOC
------------------------------
Jim Floyd came back with an excellent suggestion: strut tower bars front
and rear.
Here's one symptom: It looks really good out there, cornering flat and just
a-screaming around those oval turns at the same speeds as the race cars (or
so the spectators tell me), but inside the car it's a different story. I
can feel it shuddering through the turns, scraping off right front tire rubber
at a prodigious rate. If I let off, it makes less noise, but it goes
slower. Those rumpa rumpa Vettes are making 200 hp more than I am, so I am
beating them with handling, not hp. Alas, the penalty for that is
outrageous tire wear. I have tried several different lines, and the tire-eating,
corner shuddering one is the fastest.
Jim and I think that the front tower strut bar would keep the right front
firmly planted and keep it from shuddering, and the rear strut bar would
keep the front from plowing.
Opinions?
Other setup suggestions?
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 14:46:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Oval track: One good suggestion
Im suprized you dont have them already.
it'll keep the car more stable, less shuddering.
It wont prevent wheel scrape..thats plain old physics..two things cant
occupy the same space. Blame that on suspension travel and tire/wheel
size. (offset..etc..as well)
To work on shoulder issues, more camber, TONS of camber. I mean
ungodly amounts.
I run -3.5d on the TransAm, and I can do ungodly things in high speed
turns.
But beware, adding lots fo camber forces you to learn to drive aggressively
to get back onto a full tire patch..if you wuss out, you wont get the tire
flat, and you'll push badly.
> Jim Floyd came back with an excellent suggestion: strut tower bars
> front and rear.
>
> Here's one symptom: It looks really
good out there, cornering flat and
> just a-screaming around those oval
turns at the same speeds as the
> race cars (or so the spectators tell
me), but inside the car it's a
> different story. I can feel it
shuddering through the turns, scraping
> off right front tire rubber at a
prodigious rate. If I let off, it
> makes less noise, but it goes slower.
Those rumpa rumpa Vettes are
> making 200 hp more than I am, so I am
beating them with handling, not
> hp. Alas, the penalty for that is
outrageous tire wear. I have tried
> several different lines, and the
tire-eating, corner shuddering one is
> the fastest.
>
> Jim
and I think that the front tower strut bar would keep the right
> front
firmly planted and keep it from shuddering, and the rear strut bar would keep
the front from plowing.
>
> Opinions?
>
> Other setup
suggestions?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available
for MK3 supras NOW! Check out
http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html
for details. This is the only planned purchase -ever- of these, until
October 5th.
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 14:04:40 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Oval track: One good suggestion
Besides all of the obvious, I think an adjustable shock kit would be
necessary to scrub off the time that you need. Something like either
the TEINS or preferably, the JICs. Then you can adjust each corner
separately, stiffening up the FR and softening up the LR, max on each.
Some rear Toe In will help with the turns as well, but once again, not
streetable.
There is also chassis stiffening kits out there, in fact one on 3si now
(trying to get started). that might also add to the equation.
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 17:01:39 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Oval track: One good suggestion
Damon JIC's are nice but the TEIN suspension components pretty much
dominate Japanese motorsports, they just know how to create very adaptable and
user friendly set ups. Then of course the fact that TEIN's are about
250-300 dollars less.
This is just IMHO
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Damon Rachell
[SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 5:05
PM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Oval track: One good suggestion
>
> Besides all of the obvious, I think an adjustable shock kit would
be
> necessary to scrub off the time that you need. Something like
either
> the TEINS or preferably, the JICs. Then you can adjust
each corner
> separately, stiffening up the FR and softening up the LR,
max on each.
> Some rear Toe In will help with the turns as well, but
once again, not
> streetable.
>
> There is also chassis
stiffening kits out there, in fact one on 3si
> now
> (trying to
get started). that might also add to the equation.
>
> Damon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 13:58:55 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
stock bov - how to vent to atmosphere?
It's what I call the 0 hp mod. Maybe even the negative something HP mod.
>From what I hear, venting the BOV to the atmosphere can cause the engine to
run slightly rich during shifts since metered air is lost. I am actually
able to feel the engine pull back between shifts because of it. Also, my idle
seems to have been affected. It is for the most part stable, but once in
awhile it drops down to like 400 or 500 rpm! Anyway, I did it because (just like
many others) I love being able to hear my turbos spool and blow off.
Having said that, if you still want to do it, here's basic
instructions...
The stock BOV connects to the intake at a junction point just before going
to the turbos. The other side connects to the Y-pipe. DO NOT disconnect
the y-pipe side. Disconnect the side that goes to the junction before the
turbos. This point where you unplug the hose is under the stock air box (or
under the aftermarket cone air filter if equipped) Then plug the hole that
you made, and get a tiewrap to hold the stock BOV to something (it will no
longer have much support down there). I used a very tight steel expansion
plug and put a hose clamp over it. Make sure the plug is tight, and put a hose
clamp over the plugged part! You don't want a stray plug flying through
your intake system! While you're here (since you won't be using it anyway) You
may also want to remove the stock BOV silencer to free up the air flow.
It's a small Y-tube that goes inside the junction. Keep it in your garage in
case you wanna go back to stock!
Riyan
-----Original Message-----
From: joe d.
[mailto:ja_dorsey@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 12:43 PM
To:
riyan@hotpop.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
stock bov - how to vent to atmosphere?
riyan,
what advantage (performance gains) do you get by venting out to the
atmosphere rather than the intake? also, how did you go about it?
thanks, jd
JD...speedfreak
2-wheels: 99 Honda CBR F4 Supersport(R.I.P)
4-wheels: 91
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo (modified)
the bad thing about hobbies? they cost so damn much!!!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 14:10:07 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Oval track: One good suggestion
oh, also try a battery relocation and some weight loss. a relocation
to
the left rear will help equalize some of the weight transfer and lessen
the load on the FR tire. a carbon fiber hood, and the obvious weight
loss goodies (like an exhaust) will do wonders.
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 14:16:39 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: Oval track: One good suggestion
my statements are made on having ridden in both (unfortunately not raced
in either) but the quite ride of the JICs and total adjustability F/R
makes them, IMO a better choice.
it is a matter of choice, and i know of many people who're very
satisfied with both. I personally think more research needs to be done
on both to decide which is truly the BETTER choice.
Does each his own :->
Damon
Furman, Russell wrote:
> Damon JIC's are nice but the TEIN suspension components pretty much
> dominate Japanese motorsports, they just know how to create very
> adaptable and user friendly set ups. Then of course the fact that
> TEIN's are about 250-300 dollars less.
>
> This is just
IMHO
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 00:14:42 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dyno Results
> On Saturday, a few (16) guys from the U.K. GTO club
> (
http://uk.3si.org/) went to get our cars
dyno'd. We were a little
> surprised by the results.
Great report and many data to gather :-))
> A couple of people who went had had their car done last year (at
a
> different venue) and the results from back then were as you
would
> expect. A otherwise standard TT GTO (Japanese version of
the
> 3000GT TT) with a K&N was producing between 300 and 320 BHP,
but
> the same car (with no different mod's etc) was only getting
around
> 270-280 BHP. It was a cool day, so I don't think air
temperature
> was a problem.
The Dyno was the same make we have here and it is known to read a little
bit low. Although with 1 bars of boost you should read around 330bhp at
least. Anis car came closest. Please also note that your measures where
not corrected for air pressure, temperature and elevation !
Compared to our dyno day a few years back with only three cars the
calculated bph out of measured hp resulted in even higher numbers around 354bhp
and up to371 lbf-ft for all cars with the BC set to 1.00 bars. When my car
was stock it produced 286bhp corrected with zero mods, finally with water
injection and boost of 1.12 bars the corrected hp was 390bhp measured on
the same dyno but with totally different ambient. This is why the dyno uses the
DIN or SAE correction factors to eliminate the influence of the ambient. I
do not understand why it was not used on your dyno sheets !! Also the next time
it would help to record boost on the sheets as the SUN/MAHA dynos are able
to do this. Look here for an example :
http://www.rtec.ch/17-05-00_1_l.gif.
All car runned 98 unleaded ROZ so the fuel map should be on the high
side.
Regarding Anis car, it might have runned on a way higher boost as I once
had a client with an EVC boost controller and he runned 1.18 bars of boost
while the boost controller was set to 1.00 bar. Could be an explanation
for the high figures and problems that arose.
Also it is very well noticeable what fuel map is used by what cars ECU :-)
On the continent we are forced by Mitsu to run only 98 ROZ otherwise the
warranty doesn't cover any engine damages. We have three maps and the amount of
knock compared to IDC and load finally determines the fuel map and it's
offset. I'm not sure about the timing but there is also an offset parameter that
my be adjusted. It would have helped to connect the cars with OBDI to a
datalogger to record the run with data from the ECU (planning a dyno day is
everything, next time email me and I send you the cable and software for
this day ... or fly over, hehe)
> I've posted my sheet at the link below, and would be interested in
> your comments. I've listed my mod's below as well. My car
is a '94
> GTO TT MR, which although a 2nd Gen shape, is a 5
speed.
> Interestingly, my drivetrain losses (green line on the graph)
were
> around 25-30 HP less than all the other cars run (all were
around
> 100-110BHP at 6000 rpm regardless of 5 or 6 speed).
Unfortunately,
> mine was the only MR there, but I suspect it is because
the gearing
> is different for this variant (look at the speed / rev
figures for
> peak torque and hp).
Well, this is interesting and also visible on our dyno sheets : (ignore the
hp ratings that have been tried to convert to SAE)
http://www.rtec.ch/3s_dyno2.html. My
5 speed car had less drivetrain loss in 4th gear than the other two 6-speeders.
Unfortunately, my car was equipped with winter tires on that day...they
almost melted :-)
Some stuff can be said from many hours dyno experience :
- - a bleeder
and BC do the very same on the dyno as boost rises not that quick and the
controller has enough time to regulate to the desired level.
- - An
aftermarket exhaust on our cars only results in a gain when also the cats are
removed and boost is at least at 1 bar.
- - good fuel rules :-)
- - The
13g's are responsible for more torque and not much more power if any compared to
the 9b. It seems that only Anis car had them in as his car is an official
European car like mine (european lights)
- - Tuning the car in is very
important ... especially if one plays with a fuel controller
- - Tell Mark D.
to replace the custom ECU and doing a compression and leak down test ! He
definitely runned into fuel cut initiated by the knock control module as
his ECU eliminated the high load fuel cut for sure.
You may also drop Oleg from Lativa an email as we dynoed his car with more
than 400PS on a dyno but I cannot find his sheet he once sent me again
(
www.3000gt.lv)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 18:42:34 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: Oval track set up
If your Eibachs are std issue, I would definitely go with spring rubbers to
increase stiffness on the outer springs.
Bring lighter weight fluids, and if you don't make it the first try, swap
in the fluids. A big pain, but supposedly will make noticeable difference,
esp in shorter autocross stuff.
Use your windshield washer system, or build an intercooler water spray
system. Take your wipers off, then just turn on switch whenever you can during
your run.
(also posted on 3SI)
Next year, at about this time, I want to go back to
the Corvette Club autocross at Hawkeye Downs, take FTD, and break one minute
(the course record, set by a race-prepped Vette a couple of years ago).
It's 1.25 miles around a half mile oval, an inner quarter mile oval, and
then back around the half mile. The half mile is pyloned to keep us in the
low groove, and a gate on the back straight forces us down low. A 1:00.00
time would be a 75+ mph average speed. I am at 1:03.04 right now and had FTD
two weeks ago.
I need a little help in setting up the car for oval track racing. I need to
cut a little more than three seconds off my time.
Changing from Yoko 032R to Kuhmos ought to get me one second.
Increasing boost from 15 psi to 17 psi ought to get me a half-second.
Suspension to date:
550/330 Eibachs, stock shocks, sway bars front and
rear, Ground Control lowered to the max, camber plates.
Here's what I am considering next:
1/8 out on toe (undrivable on
street, I know)
Large RR tire (raises RR, causing LF to grab)
Lower tire
pressure LR (helps car hook in)
Zero camber LF, -2 deg RF (I have camber
plates)
These are import setups for FWDs. Will this work on an AWD car?
All help appreciated.
Rich/slow old poop
94 3000GT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 17:47:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Oval track set up
Of course, if I get a min of 12 orders, I can get us 6/6 Nylon bushings for
the 3S as well.
Id also need a full suspension set donated, a test user to do the test
install (free set to him..he provides his own labor) and of course..if the
cars arent all the same we'd have to settle on ONE car for the prototype
kit.
On Tue, 1 Oct 2002, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> If your Eibachs are std issue, I would definitely go with spring
> rubbers to increase stiffness on the outer springs.
>
>
Bring lighter weight fluids, and if you don't make it the first try,
>
swap in the fluids. A big pain, but supposedly will make noticeable
>
difference, esp in shorter autocross stuff.
>
> Use your windshield
washer system, or build an intercooler water spray
> system. Take your
wipers off, then just turn on switch whenever you
> can during your
run.
>
> Good Luck,
> Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 16:58:50 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 15G rebuilders?
Rich...
Well, I suppose you could say that I put 100K miles worth of wear
and
tear on the turbos per year. :-)
In reality, my 1995 VR4 had 25K miles on it when I bought it in 1997. It
now has 44K miles on it. The list of mods below (along with quite a few more
that have been on and taken back off) have all been added during the last
five years and 19K miles. BUT...those have been VERY hard miles. The car is
digital, it's either WOT at redline or idle. I doubt I've been in 5th or
6th gear more than five times and those were when I was driving on I-5 between
Redding and Los Angeles at speeds in the 150 mph range.
The 15Gs were sold to me "new" (installed, but "very" low miles). I should
have had them inspected, the impeller blades were damaged from day one. I
still don't know how that happened, I didn't handle them roughly. Sooo,
that was the first rebuild at TEC. The second rebuild was caused at the drags
this summer, during a 12.51 second run (and I wasn't driving). Turns out
the axle nut on the rear turbo came off, broke the rear turbo impeller blades,
passed through the engine and took out the impeller blades on the front
turbo. Outside of the turbos, there was NO damage to the valves, pistons, or
cylinder walls. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen the inside of
the engine with my own two eyes. Pieces of impeller blades throughout each
cylinder, but not a scratch from the nut. I took the less expensive route
this time and had the bushings and impellers replaced locally. I'd still
recommend the TEC 15Gs as the "middle of the road" upgrade, my intention
is to get into the 11s with a car that has valid plates and stickers (not a
trailer queen). Unfortunately, I may have gone overboard with the 720
injectors, I'm getting waaaay tooooo much fuel, even with the ARC2 turned down
-20% on the high setting.
As I've been saying for thirty years...don't race it if you can't
afford
to replace the broken parts.
:-) However, the nut "probably"
wasn't torqued
properly from the rebuild at TEC. It must've been working it's way loose for a
long time and could've come off anywhere, anytime.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 720cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF
fuel controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
trunk mounted Optima Red Top, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum
plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure plate, Broward six puck racing
disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS
brake lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, strut tower bars,
anti-sway bars, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots on factory 18" chromed wheels)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 12:57
PM
To: Chris Winkley; Matt Jannusch; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: 15G
rebuilders?
>I've had my TEC 15Gs rebuilt twice. The first time the work was done
by
TEC. The second time the work was done here in Portland by my favorite and
trusted mechanic who does the work that I don't have the skill, time, or
equipment for. Incidentally, buying the impellers and bushings and having it
done here was half the cost of sending them to TEC. Is there some other
specific information someone wants???
>
Yeah...why did you have to have
the turbos rebuilt TWICE? Are they really cheap and fall apart regularly, or do
put 100,000 miles a year on your car?
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 17:08:41 -0700
From: "cris lamas" <
bigcela@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch
today when i started my car to go back home, i noticed there was barely any
resistance on the clutch pedal(enough to go back to its place). at the very
end there was a little bit more of "push". as i drove it some more
there was
more resistance on the pedal, almost normal. So i was wondering
why this
happened? is it a problem?how do i fix it?
thank you
cris 92
3000gt sl
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 21:25:16 -0400
From: Amy Kartage <
akartage@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Rims
I'm looking for a stock 7-spoke silver aluminum (not chrome) 16" rim for my
1994 3000GT.
Ted
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 21:29:19 -0400
From: Amy Kartage <
akartage@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Radio
I have an Option 2 radio with tape player. The display window is too
dim to see it at night with all the lights off. How can this be made
brighter?
Ted
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 23:39:23 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure
I'd bet money it is low voltage at the fuel pump. There are a bunch
of threads on
www.3si.org with results
etc. Also look at Jeff Lucius' web site for a write-up on the fuel
pump rewire mod and his test results.
- -Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday,
September 23, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Pressure
> The short of it:
>
> My newly installed fuel pressure
gauge shows my *differential* (across
> the
> injectors) fuel
pressure drops as low as 34psi at mid to high RPM under
full
>
throttle. Stock rating is 43psi (differential pressure), so this
>
concerns me - either my gauge is FOS, something is installed
>
incorrectly, or I have fuel issues.
>
> (See Erik's post for all the
other details)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 23:45:30 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: clutch
You might have a bad seal in the clutch slave cylinder. Check your
fluid level in the clutch master reservoir, and look down by your slave cylinder
for fluid.
> today when i started my car to go back home, i noticed there was
> barely any resistance on the clutch pedal(enogh to go back to
>
its place). at the very end there was a little bit more of
> "push".
as i drove it some more there was more resistance on the
> pedal, almost
normal. So i was wondering why this happened? is
> it a problem?how do i
fix it? thank you
> cris 92 3000gt sl
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 10:08:09 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: stock bov - how to vent to atmosphere?
Riyan,
Venting your *stock* BPV output to atmosphere is going to
give you a vacuum/boost leak at all times, not just when the valve
activates. Look at the picture here of the hole in the stock
BPV:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-bov1.htm
I would strongly discourage doing
this on your car. Venting an
aftermarket BPV to atmosphere is completely different than venting the stock
one.
A couple of points:
* There is a hole in the valve designed to allow some amount of air
to
flow between the y-pipe and the t-pipe at all times. Under boost you
(with your stock BPV venting to atmosphere) will be venting pressurized air
to atmosphere, causing you to run richer than normal. Under vacuum,
air may enter through the BPV (from its open-air side) and go into the y-pipe if
there is vacuum in the y-pipe. This would make you run leaner than
normal and could affect your idle.
* When you are under partial throttle, you will leak air in or out
of
the BPV because the throttle plate restricts airflow enough that there is
a pressure differential between the y-pipe and the manifold (which will open
the valve). Thus pressurized air from the y-pipe will vent to
atmosphere under partial throttle with boost conditions. That will make
you run richer than normal. On the other hand, air will be sucked
into the y-pipe through the valve under partial throttle conditions where there
is vacuum in the y-pipe... that'll make you run lean.
* These things are in addition to the problem of running
super-rich
between shifts when the valve activates.
It seems to me that this modification is pretty much all-around bad for
your car. IMHO :-)
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with GReddy TypeS BPV venting to intake and it's quite
loud
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 15:38:14 US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
stock bov - how to vent to atmosphere?
So is it this "leak air in or out of the BPV" what wakes up the hoot owl
under
my hood?
bob
g8rbob - '99 VR-4
>
> * When you are under
partial throttle, you will leak air in or out of
> the BPV because the
throttle plate restricts airflow enough that there
> is a pressure
differential between the y-pipe and the manifold (which
> will open the
valve). Thus pressurized air from the y-pipe will vent
> to
atmosphere under partial throttle with boost conditions. That will
> make you run richer than normal. On the other hand, air will be
> sucked into the y-pipe through the valve under partial throttle
> conditions where there is vacuum in the y-pipe... that'll make you run
> lean. --Erik '95 VR-4 with GReddy TypeS BPV venting to intake and it's
> quite loud
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#961
***************************************
