Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, September 21 2002 Volume 01 : Number
958
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 06:27:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Thomas Labonte <
tnl7455@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Radiator
Can anyone tell me if there is there any difference
between the
radiators found in a VR-4, SL and base
3000GT, specifically in the 92 model
year? Also, are
these radiator cores aluminum?
I have a VR-4 and am looking to replace my radiator.
It is banged up in
an area about the size of a
quarter. Is it repairable?
I've been doing some online parts searching and some
sites do not ask
what engine type I have. Has anyone
had any experience with any of
these online parts
sources (such as carparts.com carradiator.com)?
Does anyone have suggestions for aftermarket
manufacturers?
------------------------------
You can get an aluminum racing radiator for $550 at
I don't know how much a stock rad costs, but I bet this is cheaper.
Rich/slow old poop
>I have a VR-4 and am looking to replace my radiator.
>It is
banged up in an area about the size of a
>quarter. Is it
repairable?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 14:32:43 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Checking Coil Resistance, tps
> I'm not too familiar with what the TPS does, although
> it
sounds like it tells the computer how hard you are stepping on the
> gas
:) Anyways, why could this lead to idle problems where it dies at
>
idle? It seems to me that a bad TPS could lead to poor acceleration
> maybe, but I don't understand how it would affect idling.
Built into the throttle position sensor (TPS) is the "closed throttle
position switch" (idle position switch, IPS). The ECM uses the IPS and the
TPS
to determine when the throttle plate is closed (idle) or wide open (WOT
acceleration). When the ECM sees the throttle plate closed, it uses the IAC
to
control idle speed. When the ECM sees the throttle plate wide open, it
knows
to use internal maps (open loop) rather than the O2 sensors (closed
loop) to
control the A/F mixture.
The ECM knows the plate is closed when either the IPS wire has a voltage on
it
less than 1.0 volt or the TPS wire has a voltage on it less than 1.0
volt. The
ECM knows the throttle plate is wide open when the TPS wire has a
voltage over
4.5 volts. The TPS reference voltage is considered 5 volts for
determining the
amount of partial opening of throttle plate. However, this
"percent open"
value is usually mis-reported by all devices monitoring the
TPS (dataloggers
and AFC for example). Most devices report a 4.5 voltage as
90% open, when in
fact the actual percent-open is determined by the range:
voltage when closed
(say 0.75 volts) to voltage when wide open (say 4.75)
[(4.5-0.75)/(4.75-0.75)
= 94% open]. You get the idea.
Tip for ARC2 users: The early ARC2 control units (and maybe later ones?)
want
to see the TPS voltage less than 0.5v to determine closed throttle. So
we
adjust the TPS to read this. As long as the WOT voltage is still above
4.5 we
are OK for the ECM. However, at very slow cruising speeds we
sometimes get
erratic control of engine speed (well at least I do). This
could be because we
are at partial open throttle and do not want "idle
control" of engine speed by
the ECM, but the TPS voltage is still less than
1.0v and so the ECM thinks the
engine is idling.
Anyway, idle problems can result if the TPS/IPS is not working properly
because the ECM would not know when the throttle plate is closed.
The "fail-safe/backup" functions listed in the service manual for a bad TPS
indicates "no additional fuel injection provided on the basis of throttle
position sensor signal at acceleration". I am not sure what this means. Does
this refer to only the acceleration enrichment, the extra fuel added during
acceleration by simultaneous firing of the injectors every 10 milliseconds?
Is
A/F still maintained in closed loop mode? What is important for this
discussion is that emergency control of idle speed is not mentioned.
Also, the turbo engine has a dashpot next to the throttle body to ease the
plate closed when you lift off the throttle pedal quickly. The service
manual
explains how to test the dashpot.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:45:54 +0200
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
post@primusmotor.no>
Subject:
Team3S: Problems to get right Oxygen Sensor
Hello,
I am having a problem finding the correct Oxygen sensor for a 1991 Dodge
Stealth ES, VIN # JB3XC44S5MY004317.
The original Oxygen Sensor does have a square connector with a total of
four cables (with two cable on the top row and two cable on the second
row). The dealer first told me that the correct Part # is MD 164423.
However, later he changed the Part Number to MD 165083 (after looking up the
Part from the VIN # of the vehicle).
When I got the Oxygen Sensor (MD 165083), it has a connector with 4 cables
in line.
Have anyone else ordered a new Oxygen Sensor for their 1991 Dodge Stealth
ES, and experienced any problems like this one ? What should the right
Part No. be? Can I just move the connector from the old Oxygen Sensor over
to the new Sensor, or is possibly any differences in how this operates as well
?
Looking forward to hear your opinion on this ...
Thanks !
Roger
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 17:07:22 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: car dying at idle and rapid rpm dropping
I am having the same problem with the rpms "Hunting" (up and down).
It used to even out after 3 ups and downs, but now it keeps hunting and
will not even out. This only happens when I have the A/C on. and
only when I put it into gear (I have an automatic).
Does this only happen when your A/C is on?
I talked with my mechanic over the phone and he seems to think it's the
idle stepper motor(more precisely the wire that powers it or a fuse linked
to it).
Is this an actual part on our cars? Where do I find it and any fuses
for it?
Thanks,
- -Erik
'91 Stealth
Mesa, AZ
- ------------------------------------------
> Hello,
>
> This has been going on for a while now, and
really makes me hate my
> car ('91 R/T tt). As the title suggests,
if the rpms drop rapidly (for
> instance, when pushing in the clutch
pedal while driving), then they
> keep dropping all the way to 0.
Also, the car at idle will sometimes
> be idling fine, then all of a
sudden die. It will sometimes hunt a
> little up and down ....
sometimes it will then steady and all is well,
> but sometimes it will
drop too low on one of its "hunts" and the car
> will die.
>
>
Things I have replaced in the last year or so since this has been
>
happening that have not solved the problem (some to try to solve this,
>
some for other reasons):
>
> 1. replaced all vacuum
lines
> 2. replaced IAC
> 3. replaced alternator,
alternator belt, battery
> 4. replaced capacitors on ECU
>
5. new plugs, wires
> 6. new fuel pump, injectors
>
7. replaced MAS with the VPC setup
> 8. cleaned throttle body
with throttle-body-spray cleaner
> 9. used seafoam through brake
booster line
> I may be forgetting some other things also.
>
>
thanks for any help,
> Bill
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 17:17:12 -0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car dying at idle and rapid rpm dropping
> I talked with my mechanic over the phone and he seems to think it's
> the idle stepper motor(more precisely the wire that powers it or
a
> fuse linked to it).
>
> Is this an actual part on our
cars? Where do I find it and any fuses
> for it?
It is an actual part on our cars. It is commonly refer to as the ISC
(Idle Speed Controller). It is located on the throttle body just
below the butterfly. You will see a electrical connector attached to
it. I don't know of any fuses for it. You could just
disconnect it and see if your car still hunts for a rpm. It won't
idle well with it disconnected but it should at least idle steadily.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:08:55 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
From:
"Dennis Blake" <
dblake@charter.net>
Subject: Team3S:
selling
Hi All
I am going to be selling my car. I hate to part but we must. She
is a 1993 Dodge Stealth RT/TT. Very nice condition will supply pictures
for all that inquire. Asking $8500. Please contact of line at
dblake@charter.net Thanks to all
Dennis
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 02:57:49 -0400
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: DR650 Turbos with AVC-R not working properly
Hey guys,
Well after the install of my new DR650 about 2 weeks ago, I can really say
that they are worth every penny, Wow.
My car goes into full boost @ 3100-3300 RPM.
Here is the question I am having a lot of trouble adjusting boost on my
Apexi avc-r past .8 bar or about 11psi. I had no problem with my
stock 9b turbos where I ran 15psi all the time without any spiking but now
with the DR650's I am faced with a challenge.
I can have the AVCR hold 11 psi without any spiking at all, but if I use
the same settings, but I just increase my boost it will not go pass 11-12
psi. and if it does it starts spiking going crazy from 10-15psi and
from 11-17psi I have to let of the gas at that time.
Can some of you with upgraded turbos relate to the same problem?
If you
solved it, can you comment on it please.
What are your settings?
What are
my options? not a new boost controller. :-(
Thanks everyone,
Roman G.
94 VR-4
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 09:24:54 -0500
From: "Toby Schoonover" <
toby92vr4@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Airbags
Alright, heres the deal : I am 16 years old and am saving for a car. My
goal
is a Stealth RT/TT or 3000 GT VR4, and herein lies the problem. I have
the
cash for a 91-93, which is better anyways because I do NOT have the
money to
replace a Getrag transmission every 100K miles. But my parents will
NOT let
me get a car without a passenger airbag. Does anyone know the price
of
installing a passenger airbag? Or if its even possible?
And if anyone happens to be selling a 3si car (TT version only ;) ) in the
DFW area, id be happy to hear about it
_Toby
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#958
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