Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, September 20 2002 Volume
01 : Number 957
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 18:15:49 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car dying at idle and rapid rpm dropping
What year is it.
Has the ECU been rebuilt yet???
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 08:11:17 -0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: Team3S: Checking
Coil Resistance
Bill
Checking primary resistance is easy, as you found out from the book.
The secondary side is measured between the two plug wire holes, and unless
it is open circuit, it will not tell you much. It should be small
resistance, close to zero to get the high discharge rate to generate a
spark. There should be no other path from the secondary side to
ground or the primary side. The secondary side generates over 25,000
volts, and the reason for all coil failures is insulation failure. There
is no way to check insulation failure with out using a hi pot tester of
some sort, testing it at voltage level to look for high voltage shorting.
If a coil is getting weak, it will first show up when it is under load as
in heavy acceleration. That is when the coil must work the most to push a
spark through a dense mixture in the cylinder. Even though the
secondary voltage is higher at lower RPM, from more time to charge the
primary, the spark path through the plugs is usually the easiest path. If
the coil is bad enough to short at idle, it would not run well under load,
more than likely not fire the plugs at all.
It is sounding like a IAC control circuit, feedback circuit or IAC is
getting stuck or bound. Might check the TPS to be sure computer is
getting throttle closed signal from the TPS
Jim
91 RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 09:07:04 -0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
checking resistance of coils, wires
How do I check the primary resistance? In the cd manual, it has a
little 4 square thing where you hook up one of the ohm-meter leads to the
#3 and then check the #2 for coil A, #1 for coil B, and #4 for coil
C. I don't know where this is at??
This is the plug that goes to the transistor pack. It is more
accessible to check directly at the bottom of the coils where the wires
are on studs at the coil. the little plastic cover can be pried off
that covers the studs. The catch is between the entry of the wires. Small
screw driver to lift it away and it will fall off. In my previous
note, I called this the primary side, as technically it is the input
side.
My second question is about resistance of the plug wires. For
plug wire #1, it checked out at 6.8 (manual says 8.6), #3 checked at 7.6
(spec = 6.4), #5 checked at 3.7 (spec = 4.5). Do these seem
fine? The wires are less than a year old, but it was a little after I had
the front ones replaced that the issues started popping up. I had
Jacobs Electronics wires and bought a spark plug cover which wouldn't fit
with the fatter JE wires, so I replaced the front ones first, then a little
while ago the rear ones.
The plug wire resistance is not an issue, usually. It is common to
have an insulation failure so that the spark energy finds the ground path
around the plug by taking a 'short' cut through the wire insulation.
Is there any other way to check if the coils are working other than
checking the primary and secondary resistances?
Since it is intermittent and works fine sometimes, but not at others, I
don't think you will find your solution looking at the coils. But
without High voltage equipment, the secondary or output side of the coils
(plug wire side) can not be verified.
I've had three coil failures on the 36 coil. Starts as missing under
high load conditions. Does not drop a code on the computer until it
really fails and misses under cruise conditions. Even then, never
shut off or failed to idle. I take it you have no check engine lights?
Resetting the ECM cures it for a while, and it gradually returns?
Will think on that for a bit, but nothing pops to mind. The post on
changing the caps is valid. The ECM caps are known to leak and corrode the
1100 dollar ECM. Sometimes to a non repairable condition. When
the ECM starts to corrode, strange things happen. I got scared and
changed mine Tuesday eve. Took about three hrs and that included getting parts
from the store and snacking.
Get a volt ohm meter if you plan to keep the car. GOOD ones can be
found for under 30 bucks at pawn shops (as well as lots of tools).
Keep us up to date
And if TPS does not send throttle closed signal to ECM, it will not know to
start the AIC cir up.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 09:39:04 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch and Brake Booster Vacuum Hoses
Anyone know (or care to speculate) why there are two separate vacuum hoses
on the AWD models for the clutch and brake boosters? They both are
the same
diameter(3/8"ID?) and both have check valves in them, but they come
off the plenum in different places.
I know that the HKS VPC installation instructions advocate removing the
brake booster hose and connecting the brake booster to the clutch booster
hose via a tee fitting (clutch booster remains connected, too).
Anyone see any problem with running both off of the same 3/8" ID hose? The
only thing I can think of is air volume (may not be a problem) and
redundancy.
Ideas? Safe to connect the brake booster hose to the clutch hose and
free up a port on the plenum for other stuff?
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with too many things that need to see manifold
pressure
------------------------------
Hey guys, somewhat new to the list here. I have a 1992 VR4 that is
giving me
some problems. First off, its most likely clutch related (clutch is a
little
over 1 yr. old, very little miles- not driven hard at all) Gears 1,
2, and
5th are not affected, only 3-4th are my problem areas- it feels as if
the car
is holding back, almost as if the clutch isn't fully engaging (it
hesitates)
Now, if I do drive the car hard, the car does fine. Only under normal
driving does this condition occur. I've checked a few things: clutch
fluid,
clutch pedal, and MAS, all seem fine. Also where is the best place to
find
the best price on an RPS carbon claw or turbo clutch? If anyone has any
suggestions as to
what one should check or any clues as to what it may
be; please let me know.
As always any and all info is greatly appreciated
James
99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:48:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Sway Bar Bushing
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 18:42:08 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch related topic
I wish I had time to contribute more, but unfortunately...
I do not
think the clutch has any relevance. A 1 yr old clutch never driven hard
probably has 90% life left on it. Also, the clutch would not cause a
hesitation, but only shifting problems (gear to gear) or slipping (engine
revs but car does not accelerate). Stick with the stock clutch until
you exceed 400hp. (trust me....)
The prob may be hard to see in the other gears due to their sensitivity and
typical rpm range. Try to explain in more detail what the hesitation
is like, and when it happens. (hot, cold, low rpm, heavy load,
etc)
Best,
Ken
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK,
HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
Improved
Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
6 speed
conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license
plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
98/99 COOLANT TANK (6/26/02)
Best
(pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On
> Behalf Of
GMightymoose@aol.com> Sent:
Thursday, September 19, 2002 3:30 PM
> To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Subject: Team3S: clutch related topic
>
> Hey guys, somewhat new to
the list here. I have a 1992 VR4 that is
> giving me some
problems. First off, its most likely clutch related
> (clutch is a
little over 1 yr. old, very little miles - not driven
> hard at all)
Gears 1, 2, and 5th are not affected, only 3-4th are
> my problem areas-
it feels as if the car is holding back, almost as
> if the clutch isn't
fully engaging (it hesitates)
>
> Now, if I do drive the car hard,
the car does fine. Only under normal
> driving does this condition
occur. I've checked a few things: clutch
> fluid, clutch pedal, and
MAS, all seem fine. Also where is the best
> place to find the best price
on an RPS carbon claw or turbo clutch?
> If anyone has any suggestions as
to what one should check or any
> clues as to what it may be; please let
me know.
>
> As always any and all info is greatly
appreciated
>
> James
>
> 99 & 92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 18:50:54 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Checking Coil Resistance, tps
thanks for your replies Jim,
The local Autozone guy was saying maybe it was the TPS, but I'm curious as
to why that would be. I'm not too familiar with what the TPS does,
although it sounds like it tells the computer how hard you are stepping on
the gas :) Anyways, why could this lead to idle problems where it dies at
idle? It seems to me that a bad TPS could lead to poor acceleration
maybe, but I don't understand how it would affect idling. It seems
that regardless of where the throttle is at (from 0 to 100) it would never
be somewhere that the car would sense was a place it needs to shut the car
off at. ??
Bill
Checking primary resistance is easy, as you found out from the book.
The secondary side is measured between the two plug wire holes, and unless
it is open circuit, it will not tell you much. It should be small
resistance, close to zero to get the high discharge rate to generate a
spark. There should be no other path from the secondary side to
ground or the primary side. The secondary side generates over 25,000
volts, and the reason for all coil failures is insulation failure. There
is no way to check insulation failure with out using a hi pot tester of
some sort, testing it at voltage level to look for high voltage shorting.
If a coil is getting weak, it will first show up when it is under load as
in heavy acceleration. That is when the coil must work the most to push a
spark through a dense mixture in the cylinder. Even though the
secondary voltage is higher at lower RPM, from more time to charge the
primary, the spark path through the plugs is usually the easiest path. If
the coil is bad enough to short at idle, it would not run well under load,
more than likely not fire the plugs at all.
It is sounding like a IAC control circuit, feedback circuit or IAC is
getting stuck or bound. Might check the TPS to be sure computer is
getting throttle closed signal from the TPS
Jim
91 RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 18:28:51 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Intellitronix Fuel Pressure Gauge
Anyone have one of these? I have one that I got a while back and I
lost the install directions. Anyone have the wiring diagram they can
share with me? I figured out that the red on the gauge is positive 12V
input, black is ground. Beyond that, I've got a purple wire and orange
wire on the gauge. The sender has a black and a red wire.
Thanks in advance,
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 16:52:30 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
clutch related topic
Not enough info to give you an answer but take a look at Jeff Lucius' site
and you
can get some additional info or the AWD system --- the link below
shows the
transmission internals which have 3rd and 4th on the input shaft
and 1st, 5th and reverse on the intermediate shaft --- maybe a trans
problem.
> Hey guys, somewhat new to the list here. I have a 1992 VR4 that
is
> giving me some problems. First off, its most likely clutch
related
> (clutch is a little over 1 yr. old, very little miles - not
driven
> hard at all) Gears 1, 2, and 5th are not affected, only
3-4th are
> my problem areas- it feels as if the car is holding back,
almost as
> if the clutch isn't fully engaging (it
hesitates)
>
> Now, if I do drive the car hard, the car does
fine. Only under normal
> driving does this condition occur.
I've checked a few things: clutch
> fluid, clutch pedal, and MAS, all
seem fine. Also where is the best
> place to find the best price on an RPS
carbon claw or turbo clutch?
> If anyone has any suggestions as to what
one should check or any
> clues as to what it may be; please let me
know.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 20:21:00 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: car dying at idle and rapid rpm dropping
Hello,
This has been going on for a while now, and really makes me hate my car
('91
R/T tt). As the title suggests, if the rpms drop rapidly (for
instance,
when pushing in the clutch pedal while driving), then they keep
dropping all
the way to 0. Also, the car at idle will sometimes be
idling fine, then all
of a sudden die. It will sometimes hunt a little
up and down .... sometimes
it will then steady and all is well, but sometimes
it will drop too low on
one of its "hunts" and the car will die.
Things I have replaced in the last year or so since this has been
happening
that have not solved the problem (some to try to solve this, some
for other
reasons):
1. replaced all vacuum lines
2. replaced IAC
3.
replaced alternator, alternator belt, battery
4. replaced capacitors on
ECU
5. new plugs, wires
6. new fuel pump,
injectors
7. replaced MAS with the VPC setup
8. cleaned
throttle body with throttle-body-spray cleaner
9. used seafoam through
brake booster line
I may be forgetting some other things also.
thanks for any help,
Bill
------------------------------
I ran into (not literally, of course) a dude (a state senator, no less)
running a car with stickers all over it proclaiming "alternate fuel,"
Hydro-power," and "E85 Ethanol," an 85% ethanol/15% gasoline mix.
He says to run the E85 ethanol, you have to have a car that's set up for
it, such as some of the newer alternate fuel cars. He showed me a
Hydro-power unit in the trunk, which allegedly extracts hydrogen from
ordinary water, and feeds it to the intake air system.
Ordinarily, I'd pass all this off as tree-hugger environmental bullshit,
except for a couple of things:
1. I heard somewhere that ethanol is particularly good for turbo engines,
because it burns at a cooler temperature. Does this mean ethanol is good
for us?
2. Hydro-Power? Hydrogen for intake air? Hmmm. Better than propane? Better
than water/alcohol injection? Any benefit to our cars here?
I thought I might look into this in more detail, seeing as how I live in
the Ethanol capital of the world (Iowa), the Hydro-Power guy is here too,
and I have a few phone numbers at my disposal. It's quite possible I could
score some cool fuel. So, what should I ask these people? For example, could
we run big boost on E85 ethanol with hydrogen injection?
What do all you engine gonzo huge-horsepower big boost dudes need to know
before you'd use it?
Give me some ammunition and interesting questions to ask, and I'll
investigate.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 17:49:07 -0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car dying at idle and rapid rpm dropping
Build a intake pressure tester and test your intake. This will show
you
every vacuum leak that you have. This may show source of your
problem or it
may just get your car in tune better. Either way, it is
worth it for the
$30 worth in parts that you use to put it together.
Go to Jeff's site for instructions. I would recommend adding a 1/4"
brass
ball valve to the pressure tester. It was more convenient for me
to turn the
valve than using my finger to hold the pressure in as I was
looking for
leaks. Also, you really don't need a gauge. Every
time I went over about 8
psi, it blew the pressure tester off. You can
find all the leaks that you
need to with just 5 psi.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 17:54:42 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Calling all gonzo engine dudes
Well, that guy's either got a flux capacitor in his car or he's pulling
your chain a bit.
First: Yes, E85 is a quality fuel with some great inherent properties
such as naturally high octane, roughly 100-104. Problem with alcohol
is
that it's energy capacity is somewhat less than gas. Therefore, it
takes 1.x gallons of alcohol to produce the same power as 1 gallon of
gasoline. So, for high boost applications, it's quality, and the
ability to make power is definitely there, as shown by the
alcohol-burning funny cars pulling 5sec quarters! Injectors, pumps,
engine seals, and more need to be converted to deliver those quantities
of fuel reliably. Alcohol doesn't have the natural lubrication
properties that gas does.
Second: converting water into hydrogen is quite feasible, and is
called
hydrolysis. Only problem is that it requires considerable
amounts of
electricity. Perhaps the car has a regenerative braking
system that
supplies the power. BS factor: the other byproduct
of hydrolysis is
oxygen!!! why bother with intake air if you've
already got your
oxidizer present?
Hydrogen will be the fuel of the future because it's clean burning, cut
likely won't be burnt to power vehicles. When hydrogen combines with
oxygen, it releases an electron, which can be used to power electric
vehicles quite efficiently. Currently, though fuel cell technology is
not cost effective, though.
Hope this helps a bit.
Damon
> I ran into (not literally, of course) a dude (a state senator, no
less) running a car with stickers all over it proclaiming "alternate
fuel," Hydro-power," and "E85 Ethanol," an 85% ethanol/15% gasoline mix.
>
> He says to run the E85 ethanol, you have to have a car that's
set up for it, such as some of the newer alternate fuel cars. He
showed me a Hydro-power unit in the trunk, which allegedly extracts
hydrogen from ordinary water, and feeds it to the intake air system.
>
> Ordinarily, I'd pass all this off as tree-hugger environmental
bullshit, except for a couple of things:
>
> 1. I heard
somewhere that ethanol is particularly good for turbo engines, because it burns
at a cooler temperature. Does this mean ethanol is good for us?
>
> 2. Hydro-Power? Hydrogen for intake air? Hmmm. Better than propane?
Better than water/alcohol injection? Any benefit to our cars here?
>
> I thought I might look into this in more detail, seeing as how I live
in the Ethanol capital of the world (Iowa), the Hydro-Power guy is here
too, and I have a few phone numbers at my disposal. It's quite possible I
could score some cool fuel. So, what should I ask these people? For example,
could we run big boost on E85 ethanol with hydrogen injection?
>
> What do all you engine gonzo huge-horsepower big boost dudes need to
know before you'd use it?
>
> Give me some ammunition and
interesting questions to ask, and I'll investigate.
>
> Rich/slow
old poop
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 18:03:55 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Calling all gonzo engine dudes
Take a look at this site ---- the basic premise is correct, as pointed out
it's called electrolysis.
In his case he's converted it to a perpetual motion
machine --- just add water. LOL, people
buy into this stuff because he
uses some equations and pseudo-science to make a point.
Can he generate
hydrogen --- yes. Can he run a car with it absolutely not. Can he assist
his
car's performance --- not with this setup. You could probably generate enough
hydrogen
to help performance with a trunk load of batteries but they would
have to be recharged and
the weight would probably make performance
worse.
> I ran into (not literally, of course) a dude (a state senator, no
less) running a car with stickers all over it proclaiming "alternate
fuel," Hydro-power," and "E85 Ethanol," an 85% ethanol/15% gasoline
mix.
> He says to run the E85 ethanol, you have to have a car that's set up
for it, such as some of the newer alternate fuel cars. He showed me
a Hydro-power unit in the trunk, which allegedly extracts hydrogen from
ordinary water, and feeds it to the intake air system.
> Ordinarily, I'd pass all this off as tree-hugger environmental
bullshit, except for a couple of things:
> 1. I heard somewhere that ethanol is particularly good for turbo
engines, because it burns at a cooler temperature. Does this mean ethanol
is good for us?
> 2. Hydro-Power? Hydrogen for intake air? Hmmm. Better than propane?
Better than water/alcohol injection? Any benefit to our cars here?
> I thought I might look into this in more detail, seeing as how I live
in the Ethanol capital of the world (Iowa), the Hydro-Power guy is here
too, and I have a few phone numbers at my disposal. It's quite possible I
could score some cool fuel. So, what should I ask these people? For example,
could we run big boost on E85 ethanol with hydrogen injection?
> What do all you engine gonzo huge-horsepower big boost dudes need to
know before you'd use it?
> Give me some ammunition and interesting questions to ask, and I'll
investigate.
> Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:35:11 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
checking resistance of coils, wires
I checked my coils, and I do have the shop manual. Please bear with me. I
am
very busy right now. I'll try to go into detail when business slows
down.
Let me get you a starting hint though. DO NOT trust the shop manual
spec.
It's off.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
(ended up buying a new coil pack for no
reason, and I still do have my old
ones)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 20:09:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: List/WWW downtime notice
Speedtoys.Com is moving.
This is critical to our continued growth.
DSL and power bills add up to about $500/mo, and I cant pocket it
anymore.
I am moving to a friendly co-location service, we'll also enjoy
more
bandwidth..a little more. :)
The server will be taken down on Sunday afternoon, mirrored to
another
storage medium for disaster recover purposes, and shipped out via
2-day
freight on Monday.
With luck, around Thursday AM it'll just turn back on and serve
things
right up.
Email will be queued.
DNS has already been managed, and the new IP will be in place
moments,
before I shut the server down. The propagation of the new IP
will take
place during shipping..so no spotty outages.
Everyone's personal mail will be queued and re-sent to you when Im
back
online. This is a process I will do by-hand for you.
------------------------------
I will be running a Corvette club autocross this weekend on my Yoko 032R
race tires.
I know how to set them up for a road race (37 psi front, 38 rear),
but I don't know much about autocrossing. Going out on cold tires with
cold brakes is not something I relish, but I can't pass up the chance to
run against Corvettes at one of their national points events.
Tell me, o autocross dudes: what tire pressures should I run? I can chalk
the tires and all, but I need to learn your secret set up formula for cold
tires.
The course is one lap of a half mile paved oval (coned down to the low
groove), then one lap of the inner paved quarter mile oval, then another
lap of the half mile oval. I plan to pump the right side tires up to 40
psi and lower the inside tires to 36 psi as a starting point, but I welcome any
advice from experienced 'crossers who run these tires.
We ran some practice laps last week, but the lure of running the big oval
outweighed the need to practice the low groove, so I didn't get much
practice down low.
All advice welcome.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 20:37:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Autocrossing on Yoko 032s
You'll have fun.
However..they'll kill ya.
Sadly, a SuperStock vette is still much better at autox, than a BSP
VR4.
:(
Possibly even a full-weight MOD class entry.
> I will be running a Corvette club autocross this weekend on my Yoko
032R race tires.
> I know how to set them up for a road race (37
psi front, 38 rear), but I don't know much about autocrossing. Going
out on cold tires with cold brakes is not something I relish, but I can't pass
up the chance to run against Corvettes at one of their national points
events.
> Tell me, o autocross dudes: what tire pressures
should I run? I can chalk the tires and all, but I need to learn your
secret set up formula for cold tires.
> The course is one lap of
a half mile paved oval (coned down to the low groove), then one lap of the
inner paved quarter mile oval, then another lap of the half mile oval. I plan to
pump the right side tires up to 40 psi and lower the inside tires to 36
psi as a starting point, but I welcome any advice from experienced
'crossers who run these tires.
> We ran some practice laps last
week, but the lure of running the big oval outweighed the need to practice
the low groove, so I didn't get much practice down low.
> All
advice welcome.
> Rich/slow old poop
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available
for MK3 supras NOW!
Check out
http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html
for details.
This is the only planned purchase -ever- of these, until October
5th.
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:29:24 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: OT!! I need some quick advice from a lawyer PLEASE!!!
Just common sense--don't discuss this at all with your neighbors. Even
if
you think that your case is solid enough to convince them to drop the
court
case, don't say NOTHING. In fact, you may even want to act pitiful
and
afraid so that they get overconfident. And by the way, have fun winning
in
court. I wonder if you could get them to pay your attorney fees in
addition
to your own when you win??
Riyan
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 23:36:20 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car dying at idle and rapid rpm dropping
+> Build a intake pressure tester and test your intake. This will
show you
+> every vacuum leak that you have. This may show source of
your problem or it
+> may just get your car in tune better. Either
way, it is worth it for the
+> $30 worth in parts that you use to put it
together.
+>
+> Go to Jeff's site for instructions. I would
recommend adding a 1/4" brass
+> ball valve to the pressure tester.
It was more convenient for me to turn the
+> valve than using my finger to
hold the pressure in as I was looking for
+> leaks. Also, you really
don't need a gauge. Every time I went over about 8
+> psi, it blew
the pressure tester off. You can find all the leaks that you
+> need
to with just 5 psi.
negative. you'll find plenty more as the pressure goes up. been
there
done that. just cut a small groove around the OD of the PVC that
slides into the rubber coupler. about a 1/4"-1/2" in from the end will
do it. doesn't have to be that deep either. maybe
1/16"-1/8" gives
the rubber coupler something to bite into when the
ring clamp is
tightened around it (the rubber gets squished into the groove
and
provides friction). I've pressurized up to 25psi and the tester
stayed
put for over 10 minutes.
I must admit, Jeff's tester looks a _LOT_ nicer than mine... :)
btw, from the bottom of Jeff's pressure tester page,
"Next, I will try to use a tire valve as the fitting on the cleanout plug
so that the tester can be used anywhere your tires can be filled. I'll
update this web page after I see if this works or not. "
that's what I did.. can use a bicycle tire pump too.. works
fine. :)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 06:06:23 -0700
From: "Michael, Sharon &
Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone have a Q45 to trade for a VR4?
My driving (and passenger carrying) needs have changed over the last
few
months, so I'm looking to change cars. I have a '92 VR4, well
treated,
unmodified, in good condition with 109k. I'm looking for a
94-96 Q45t or
Q45a. Anyone out there in the Atlanta area who wants to
trade their
luxury/sport Q45 for a sport/luxury VR4?
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#957
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