Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, September 16 2002 Volume
01 : Number 954
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 19:26:54 -0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 91 Stealth TT for sale
The price looks good to me. I will pass the word onto a few local member in
the NW who have been looking for a TT. What is this things about "The fix"
for the tranny? Is this the Kormex 1-2 Syncro fix that has been out for a
while, or is there some new thing out there?
Tyson.
Hey gang:
My beautiful daughter Cathy is going to give up her equally beautiful 91
Stealth TT. She had a baby and her priorities have changed. It's four door time
for them!
Before she puts it on E-bay, I thought we'd throw it out to the list.
This car is absolutely immaculate. This is a perfect car for anyone looking
for a low mileage TT Stealth with all the correct mods -- chromies, Borla,
DSBC, lowered, and a WARRANTY in effect until January 2003. It
looks good, sounds good, and turns heads as it rumbles by.
The car is in Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
Offers in excess of $9,000 will be entertained. (Book is $8K, but that's
for a stocker with probably 100,000 miles -- this is low mileage with all the
mods and a warranty still in effect).
Rich/slow old grandpoop
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:08:38 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 91 Stealth TT for sale
How low of mileage??
The price looks good to me. I will pass the word onto a few local member in
the NW who have been looking for a TT. What is this things about "The fix"
for the tranny? Is this the Kormex 1-2 Syncro fix that has been out for a
while, or is there some new thing out there?
Tyson.
------------------------------
I THINK it's 46,000 miles, but it's not my car. Send an e-mail to Cathy at
gcathi@hotmail.com
At 08:08 PM 9/15/02 -0700, BlackLight wrote:
>How low of
mileage??
>
>Matt Nelson
>1994 RT
TT
>BlackLight@Planetice.Net
>www.BlackLight.5u.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 08:19:36 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Strange overheating problem
Have you changed your radiator hoses lately? Perhaps they are
collapsing at high engine speeds, thus restricting coolant flow.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Stephen C. Kempf
[mailto:kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu]
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 3:24
PM
To: Team 3S List
Subject: Team3S: Strange overheating problem
I have a 1993 Stealth ES with no mods that I have owned since new and that
has been very well taken care of. I've recently begun to have a "strange"
overheating problem (see below) that I'm having trouble figuring out. Since my
experience with repair shops suggests they have trouble sorting this car
(often takes a long time or 2-4 tries to get it right) I'd like to get some
ideas before I take it into the mechanic.
The car has 76K on it. I've changed the oil and filter every 3-4K since new
and the engine purrs like a kitten. There's no smoke or steam in the exhaust.
The water pump was replaced and the timing belt changed at about 60K and
the radiator and all water hoses were replaced at about 68K. There are no
coolant leaks and the fans come on when the air conditioning is turned on
at idle (at this time of year the AC is on all the time). There are no leaves or
other debris blocking the radiator.
Now for the problem. When I drive around town everything is OK, the
temperature gauge holds at a little below the half way point which is where it
normally is on this car, city or highway. When I get onto the interstate
an get up to 70 mph or so, things may be OK for awhile, but then the temperature
starts to climb and will usually hang at about 3/4 of the range of the
gauge (normally I'd expect it to be at a little below the 1/2 way point as
described above). If I get into a high load situation, such as climbing a
hill, it goes higher. I haven't hit the red bar at the top of the gauge yet, but
once it came awful close. For now, I just drive it around the city until
the problem (whatever it is) can be fixed.
I'd appreciate any ideas that anyone can offer.
Thank you,
Steve Kempf
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 08:51:08 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #952
Check your cats. Perhaps they are plugged.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrzej Artymowicz
[mailto:andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl]
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 11:19
AM
To: 3000GT list
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #952
Hi!
I've got a problem with my '95 base (N/A). Yesterday I've found that
engine has difficulties to go beyond 2500-2600RPM range. Engine stops
in
this RPM area. Sometimes on idle when I accelerate very slowly engine
behaves normally, but on driving conditions its very hard to drive.
It's
not a problem with gasoline. I tried to disconnect batteries but it
doesn't help either. Any recommendations?
thanks
andrzej from Poland
------------------------------
Team,
I am a long-time reader and rare writer to Team3s and I am extremely
inferior when it comes to the technical expertise of most members, so I
apologize if this information is lacking.
I have a couple of issues that I would appreciate any advice, comments,
recommendations on. I have to take my car to the "stealer" this week to
have them look at some repairs they completed just 2 months ago. I
had taken it in(very long story) and they repaired a cracked rear turbo which
was supposed to be my problem, only to discover that there were more
problems related to detonation.
Well, after a small fortune in repairs, the car (from what I can
tell) is still experiencing detonation at around 2,800- 3,100 rpm. It is
very subtle but you can feel it "stutter". I've also noticed that it
is worse when cold or having sat for a while. The occasional backfire
sometimes accompanies it.
Every since this experience, I have read up on our cars (thanks to 3s!!)
and have discovered that there is a lot more than meets the eye with these
machines. Unfortunately I do not have the experience, time, patience
tools or hands to work on my car. I have to take it in to them and
basically tell them what is wrong with it and why it's doing it, because
they are useless. I can dig up the repair bill and give details if
necessary. In short, both turbos cleaned, rear turbo rebuilt, engine
machined because of detonation in cylinder, fuel rail cleaned, fuel filter
replaced. The turbos seem perfect since, but the car began to
"stutter" shortly after getting it back. I guess what I need to know is why is
the car doing this again and how can I stop it from ever occurring
again.
I have read up on Dataloggers, boost controllers, blow off valves and
FIPK and have a general understanding. The "stealer" went ahead with
repairs without my authorization (another long story) and thus, I have
some "free" labor coming to me in the form of adding modifications to my
liking. I just don't know which will help me and if a datalogger or
maybe air/fuel gauge is truly what I need to keep on top of this car. I
have a very stock 1992 Dodge Stealth TT with 100,000 miles and is used as
a daily driver, basically to and from work. I will never race it but do
enjoy driving a fine car while being able to burn any Mustang or Camaro I
pull up to. I have just soaked a lot of money into it and would like to
get something for my cash, so I am thinking of adding some minor
performance parts (FIPK, blow off valve, boost controller) Any feedback
would be appreciated. Once I clear this up, I will need some front end
work and will ask for more expert advice then, and then.... my baby will
hopefully be as good as new.
Thanks to everyone in advance,
Shannon Rowe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:17:20 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust - okay to leave one pre-cat
> The stillen downpipe will eliminate one
> precat and
leave
> the other precat on there. Is that okay?
I ran with the front pre-cat intact and the rear one gutted for more than a
year with no problems.
> One more thing. Assuming that it's okay to leave the one
>
pre-cat on there,
> about how much HP would that cost me?
Once I gutted my second precat, I did notice a bit of a power
increase. Not huge, but spoolup was a little faster and the car could hold
a bit more boost in the high end.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:01:29 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust - okay to leave one pre-cat
> Erik Gross has that setup and he is not complaining.
Had :-) For about a month.
Didn't have any problems before I improved the rear pre-cat, though.
- --Erik
------------------------------
What makes you think it is detonation? stutter during WOT
acceleration could be secondary to spark blow out. what boost are you
running and what spark plug gap? This is more likely with
higher-than-stock boost.
Also, stutter could be secondary to a bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).
Sometimes, but not always, this causes a fault code and a CE (Check Engine)
light.
How many miles (and years) on these plugs and wires?
Chuck Willis
Well, after a small fortune in repairs, the car (from what I can
tell) is still experiencing detonation at around 2,800- 3,100 rpm. It is
very subtle but you can feel it "stutter". I've also noticed that it
is worse when cold or having sat for a while. The occasional backfire
sometimes accompanies it.
------------------------------
Did the dealer change spark plugs and spark plug wires with the stock NGK
platinum plugs and the stock wires? Sometimes they do not change the wires
and "forget" to change the rear bank plugs.
If he did, then the best thing that you could spend your money on would be
a datalogger (best) or an O2 gauge/voltmeter.
Philip
- --------------------------------
Well, after a small fortune in repairs, the car (from what I can
tell) is still experiencing detonation at around 2,800- 3,100 rpm. It is
very subtle but you can feel it "stutter". I've also noticed that it
is worse when cold or having sat for a while. The occasional backfire
sometimes accompanies it.
------------------------------
Chuck,
The only reason I think it's detonation is because that is what the dealer
said was occurring previously and these are the exact same symptoms. I did
take a look at the cylinder walls when it was taken apart and there was a
lot of shine on the walls which apparently, is a sign of detonation.
I am not getting any warnings, other than the SRS light that has been there
forever.
The plugs and wires are around 2 years of age and have approx. 25,000 miles
on them. Is there anything I can check to narrow the problem down?
Fuel filter changed and fuel rail sent out for cleaning.
My boost is stock, as is the spark plug gap. There are no mods or
after market parts.
Thanks,
Shannon Rowe
> From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 13:22:14 -0500
> To: "'SHANNON'" <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Detonation@3,000
rpm+misc.
>
> What makes you think it is detonation? stutter
during WOT
> acceleration could be secondary to spark blow out.
what boost are
> you running and what spark plug gap? This is more
likely with
> higher-than-stock boost.
>
> Also, stutter
could be secondary to a bad TPS (Throttle Position
> Sensor). Sometimes,
but not always, this causes a fault code and a CE
> (Check Engine)
light.
>
> How many miles (and years) on these plugs and
wires?
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> Well, after a small
fortune in repairs, the car (from what I can tell)
> is still
experiencing detonation at around 2,800- 3,100 rpm. It is
> very
subtle but you can feel it "stutter". I've also noticed that it
>
is worse when cold or having sat for a while. The occasional backfire
> sometimes accompanies it.
------------------------------
Actually, the first time into the dealer I think they did "forget" to
change the rear plugs, that's when I first experience rough running. I
took it into a friend a few days later and he did it properly.
>From what I understand a data logger would tell me (among other things)
if the car is misfiring? What is involved in installing a datalogger and
what estimated cost are we looking at? So the datalogger would
constantly monitor the engine and I would have to view the results after every
run? Or is it only used when you think your having problems?? Does it
require a laptop?
I also forgot to mention that the O2 sensors were changed as well.
Thanks,
Shannon Rowe
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:07:54 -0400
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S:
Detonation@3,000 rpm+misc.
>
> Did the dealer change spark plugs and spark plug wires with the stock
> NGK platinum plugs and the stock wires? Sometimes they do not change
> the wires and "forget" to change the rear bank plugs.
>
>
If he did, then the best thing that you could spend your money on
> would
be a datalogger (best) or an O2 gauge/voltmeter.
>
> Philip
>
--------------------------------
>
> Well, after a small fortune in
repairs, the car (from what I can tell)
> is still experiencing
detonation at around 2,800- 3,100 rpm. It is
> very subtle but you
can feel it "stutter". I've also noticed that it
> is worse when
cold
> or having sat for a while. The occasional backfire sometimes
accompanies
> it.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:58:03 -0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Detonation
Shannon
I am beginning to have serious questions about this dealer. Charging for
work not done as in the plugs. And the detonation explanation. The
cylinder walls are supposed to be shiny, almost a mirror finish.
This is where the rings of the engine create the seal for the cylinder. If
they were rough and scratchy, you would have reduced power from low
compression and blow by.
Keep learning about the car and think of finding a new mechanic (doesn't
have to be a dealer) to work on the car.
If the stutter occurs only during acceleration, and not just cruising, it
is most probably plugs, wires, or coils in that order. I have had
experience with the 36 coil failing and it will not generate a check
engine light or code until the coil gets bad enough to miss during cruising, not
just during acceleration.
Jim
91 RT TT
------------------------------
>Actually, the first time into the dealer I think they did "forget"
to
change
>the rear plugs, that's when I first experience rough
running. I took
>it into a friend a few days later and he did it
properly.
If you have 25,000 miles on your plugs and wires, change them. This is not
too high of a mileage, but looking at how you change everything that could
be changed, I would start with plugs and wires first.
>From what I understand a data logger would tell me (among other things)
if
>the car is misfiring? What is involved in installing a
datalogger and what
>estimated cost are we looking at? So the
datalogger would constantly
>monitor the engine and I would have to view
the results after every run?
Or
>is it only used when you think your
having problems?? Does it require a laptop?
A data logger will tell you if you have knock or not. It will also tell you
if you are running rich or lean. Then it will tell give you a hint if you
could have a spark blowout(misfiring). Data loggers are usually used only
for diagnostics and tuning. You would be able to use it more if you decide to
buy a boost controller. There are two data loggers for your car that I
know of:
www.tmo.com and
www.pocketlogger.com. One uses a laptop
and the other uses a Palm organizer. Check out their websites and inquire
about availability before placing an order. But get those plugs and wires first.
Good luck.
Philip
------------------------------
>I am beginning to have serious questions about this dealer. Charging
>for work not done as in the plugs. And the detonation
explanation.
>The cylinder walls are supposed to be shiny, almost a mirror
finish.
>This is where the rings of the engine create the seal for the
cylinder.
>If they were rough and scratchy, you would have reduced
power from low
>compression and blow by.
True. I would bet there wasn't any crack in the rear turbo either. I would
demand the old turbo back from that dealer and sue him if he does not provide
it.
Philip
------------------------------
Shannon,
I really should not read my mails in reverse order. You said that it
occurs more when cold, occasional back fire. This does indicate unburned fuel to
have a backfire. the fuel is not being burned in the cylinder.
Also, a cold mixture is 'thicker', more fuel in the mix. The thicker the
mix, the stronger the spark needed to get through it. Detonation in the
cylinder is caused by a hot spot, usually a dirty combustion chamber. The
fuel and air get compressed and their temp rises. If there is a hot spot,
it will ignite the mixture before the spark has the chance. Detonation if
it occurs very early in the compression cycle will break pistons and
hammer bearings. Also, I was not exact in last msg. Philip pointed out
that the cylinder walls should be very smooth with faint lines in an x
pattern. Mirror finish in theory is good, but will cause lubrication
problems.
Jim
------------------------------
As Philip so aptly noted, if the cylinder walls were not shiny, the piston
rings would not provide much of a seal. Even if the cylinder walls start out
not so shiny, a few hours at several thousand rpms will make them shiny.
There is a tool for "honing" cylinder walls to remove the glaze from them.
Sometimes when you take the head off an engine block, there is glaze
sticking up into the area of the cylinder where the head is, and you have to
knock this off before reinstalling the head.
Somebody at the dealer is yanking your chain.
"The only reason I think it's detonation is because that is what the dealer
said was occurring previously and these are the exact same symptoms. I did
take a look at the cylinder walls when it was taken apart and there was a
lot of shine on the walls which apparently, is a sign of detonation."
------------------------------
... so in an attempt to be helpful and constructive, have you tried running
a tankful of injector cleaner through the car? I am thinking that if the
injectors are dirty then they drip fuel into the cylinders instead of
spraying it in, so you get incomplete combustion. How's your fuel
economy?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Im voting on an incomplete tuneup.
On Mon, 16 Sep 2002, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> ... so in an attempt to be helpful and constructive, have you tried
> running a tankful of injector cleaner through the car? I am thinking
> that if the injectors are dirty then they drip fuel into the cylinders
> instead of spraying it in, so you get incomplete combustion.
How's
> your fuel economy?
***
NEW Supra Product!
6/6 Nylon suspension bushings are available
for MK3 supras NOW! Check out
http://www.speedtoys.com/bushings.html
for details. This is the only planned purchase -ever- of these, until
October 5th.
***
------------------------------
Chuck,
Yes I have run injector cleaner. I have also tried octane
boost. The octane boost seemed to limit the severity of the "stutter"
however it was still there. Fuel economy could definitely use
improvement, how much I am not sure.
Thanks again,
Shannon
------------------------------
Jim,
Thanks for the explanation, it helps.
Normally you can barely notice the "stutter", only veteran Stealth/3000GT
owners or astute mechanics would be able to tell, but when it is cold, it's
very obvious. After parking the car all day at work and then
starting it up, it runs very rough, if you attempt to give it gas it is really a
rough climb through the RPM band, once you get going, it gradually
improves.
I know first hand the damage detonation can cause because that's what led
to the repairs in the first place. After spending that kind of money on
the car, I informed the dealer that I was very concerned of the
possibility that this could happen again, of course he said it wouldn't.
So I need to know if/why I have a "hot spot" on this recently repaired
engine.
I do not know much about the cylinder walls etc. only what the kind folks
at Team3S told me. I went armed with this ammunition and demanded to see
the engine apart as suggested. They pointed out the cylinders and
pointed to two in particular (I forget which off hand) and pointed to the shiny
area and said that's were the detonation was occurring. They then
demonstrated the "play" the piston had. That, they said was the route of
the problem.
Thanks,
Shannon
> From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
> Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002
15:28:47 -0500
> To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Detonation@3,000
rpm+misc.
>
> Shannon,
>
> I really should not read my
mails in reverse order. You said that it
> occurs more when cold,
occasional back fire. This does indicate
> unburned fuel to have a
backfire. the fuel is not being burned in the
> cylinder.
Also, a cold mixture is 'thicker', more fuel in the mix.
> The
thicker the mix, the stronger the spark needed to get through it.
>
Detonation in the cylinder is caused by a hot spot, usually a dirty
>
combustion chamber. The fuel and air get compressed and their temp
> rises. If there is a hot spot, it will ignite the mixture before the
> spark has the chance. Detonation if it occurs very early in the
> compression cycle will break pistons and hammer bearings. Also, I was
> not exact in last msg. Philip pointed out that the cylinder walls
> should be very smooth with faint lines in an x pattern. Mirror
finish
> in theory is good, but will cause lubrication problems.
>
> Jim
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:50:56 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lightweight/underdrive pulley effects
It hasn't been discussed in a while, but I just found this article
explaining the operation/purpose of the harmonic dampener on the stock
crankshaft pulley. The article is Supra-specific in content, but I'm
sure similar concepts and processes went into making the harmonic dampener for
the pulley on our cars.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:48:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lightweight/underdrive pulley effects
That would stand as valid engineering for -any- car with a crank
damper.
On Mon, 16 Sep 2002, Geddes, Brian J wrote:
> It hasn't been discussed in a while, but I just found this article
> explaining the operation/purpose of the harmonic dampener on the stock
> crankshaft pulley. The article is Supra-specific in content, but
I'm
> sure similar concepts and processes went into making the harmonic
> dampener for the pulley on our cars.
>
>
http://www.supras.com/~riemer/sonictech/tet/dualratedamper.html>
> - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:56:46 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lightweight/underdrive pulley effects
Here is some specific info on the 3S platform....
I still can not for the life of me figure out how anyone would run one on
their car.
Kevin
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Monday,
September 16, 2002 5:51 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
Lightweight/underdrive pulley effects
It hasn't been discussed in a while, but I just found this article
explaining the operation/purpose of the harmonic dampener on the stock
crankshaft pulley. The article is Supra-specific in content, but I'm
sure similar concepts and processes went into making the harmonic dampener for
the pulley on our cars.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Before I do this, other possibilities occur to me.
1. Are there any alternatives to the PPE rad? Who else has one? 2. Has
anyone tried installing a big fat ordinary radiator in there? Seems like there
is plenty of room for something like a Corvette radiator. I'd have to
install fans somewhere else, of course. 3. Is there a performance mod for a
stock rad? How about an external tank for more capacity? How about a
second rad, mounted in series? What about a high capacity water pump?
I figure the aluminum rad is the answer, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:02:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aluminum radiators and such
Radiators are all about soak time.
more core volume and depth..is what its all about.
You HAVE to slow down the thermostat cycle, to solve the problem.
$550 isnt a bad deal for the size of the rad.
Be a racer..pony it up.
> As soon as the next event is over, I'll have to tend to my recurring
> radiator overheating problem. Looks like the solution may be the $550
> aluminum rad from Prentiss
> (
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/street/2928/radiator.htm)
>
> Before I do this, other possibilities occur to me.
>
> 1.
Are there any alternatives to the PPE rad? Who else has one? 2. Has
>
anyone tried installing a big fat ordinary radiator in there? Seems
>
like there is plenty of room for something like a Corvette radiator.
>
I'd have to install fans somewhere else, of course. 3. Is there a
>
performance mod for a stock rad? How about an external tank for more
>
capacity? How about a second rad, mounted in series? What about a high
>
capacity water pump?
>
> I figure the aluminum rad is the answer,
but it doesn't hurt to ask.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
>$550 isnt a bad deal for the size of the rad.
>Be a racer..pony
it up.
>
Just thought I'd ask first.
It'd be just my luck to buy
one, then learn that the rad from a 68 Chevy pickup bolts right in and solves
the problem for $40.
Ages ago in pro rallying, we learned that big strong 8 in. wide steel
wheels from old Corvairs bolted right up to the 1972 Datsun 510. We could get
the wheels for under $10 at junkyards everywhere in those days. Folks who
didn't know that were buying mags and bending them on rockadillows and
bunyip crossings. We also learned that a used Chrysler 70A alternator also
bolted right up, saving the cost of buying a special rally alternator from
Datsun Competition. Ever since then, I always ask to see if there is a
cheap way.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 01:10:54 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lightweight/underdrive pulley effects
Short V-engines are not so prone to damages through the lack of a harmonic
dampener. Till today, no 3S car had any damage from an underdrive
non-dampening pulley... one thing our engines seem not to have a problem
with :-) Knock is much more an issue than any UDP and we can be lucky for this
little advantage.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:57:10 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Brake Blowers
Rich Merritt,
I'm wondering if you have any comments about your strut mounted brake
blowers.
~~ Michael
Gerhard ~~
Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory
L-126 7000 East Avenue, Livermore CA
94550
Email:
gerhard1@llnl.gov
Phone: (925)
422-8368
Fax: (925) 424-2135
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:05:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aluminum radiators and such
:)
To be polite..you have asked before.
This isnt the first time you've brung up the "I dont wanna pay $500 for a
real radiator" thread.
*friendly ribbing*
> >$550 isnt a bad deal for the size of the rad.
> >Be a
racer..pony it up.
> >
> Just thought I'd ask first.
> It'd
be just my luck to buy one, then learn that the rad from a 68
> Chevy
pickup bolts right in and solves the problem for $40.
>
> Ages ago
in pro rallying, we learned that big strong 8 in. wide steel
> wheels
from old Corvairs bolted right up to the 1972 Datsun 510. We
> could get
the wheels for under $10 at junkyards everywhere in those
> days. Folks
who didn't know that were buying mags and bending them on
> rockadillows
and bunyip crossings. We also learned that a used
> Chrysler 70A
alternator also bolted right up, saving the cost of
> buying a special
rally alternator from Datsun Competition. Ever since
> then, I always ask
to see if there is a cheap way.
>
> Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:13:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lightweight/underdrive pulley effects
..and Im yet to see a 7.0 earthquake here in San Jose.
Doesnt mean it wont happen, because from a factual point of view...it
will.
On Tue, 17 Sep 2002, Roger Gerl wrote:
> Short V-engines are not so prone to damages through the lack of a
> harmonic dampener. Till today, no 3S car had any damage from an
> underdrive non-dampening pulley... one thing our engines seem not to
> have a problem with :-) Knock is much more an issue than any UDP and
> we can be lucky for this little advantage.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
> To:
"Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>; <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent: Monday,
September 16, 2002 11:56 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Lightweight/underdrive
pulley effects
>
> > Here is some specific info on the 3S
platform....
> >
> >
http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/udp.htm>
>
> > I still can not for the life of me figure out how anyone would
run
> > one on their car.
> >
> > Kevin
------------------------------
> Chuck,
>
> Yes I have run injector cleaner. I have
also tried octane boost. The
> octane boost seemed to limit the
severity of the "stutter" however it
> was still there. Fuel
economy could definitely use improvement, how
> much I am not sure.
If you're in experimental mode, and really think increased octane
alleviates your problem go to the following link and take a look around.
The articles are about rocket fuel, or the use of toluene or xylene as an
octane booster. Many a folk have tried it and it does work --- the articles
give ratios and octane results but a gallon or two of toluene in a third
of a tank of gas should raise the octane to the
point where detonation is
eliminated. Or look around for a station in your area that sells race gas and
put in a few gallons of race gas ---- that stuff goes up to 118 octane
leaded so you can only use a few gallons for testing.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Hey guys,
I broke a rod in my '94 sl 3000gt- I didn't throw it but its knocking like
all hell - I am wanting to know what is the best course of action- getting a
new engine- which a auto wholesaler has quoted around $3,000 or should I
attempt to have the engine rebuilt- and if so where should I send it? I live in
denver, CO- and I'm not sure where to get the best service for my 3000 - I
love my car and I will fix it one way or the next but I am hoping that all of
you experts have some suggestions on the best way to get me and my car out
of this mess- thanx!
------------------------------
Sounds like you spun a bearing? You can check with Mile High Mitsubishi.
When I spun mine they did a total rebuild for $3,800. If I'm not mistaken you
can get a new crank, bearings, and rods should be good. Am I on the right
path?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
2,000 mi on new motor.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vic O'Kane
[mailto:fiendishhq@hotmail.com]=20
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 5:45
PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
Team3S: please help
Hey guys,
I broke a rod in my '94 sl 3000gt- I didn't throw
it but its knocking like all hell - I am wanting to know what is the best course
of
action- getting a new engine- which a auto wholesaler has quoted around
$3,000 or should I attempt to have the engine rebuilt- and if so where should I
send it? I live in denver, CO- and I'm not sure where to get the best
service for my 3000 - I love my car and I will fix it one way or the next but I
am hoping that all of you experts have some suggestions on the best way to
get me and my car out of this mess- thanx!
- -Vic
------------------------------
Since your car is idling rough and it is hesitating then I would check your
cam shaft timing marks. If the "stealer" is the same people you had change
your timing belt, then I would be very suspicious about this.
I would not call it detonation yet. You don't know for sure without a
data log. Even then, it could be a bad detonation sensor or engine
mount.
Check all of your IC hoses too. Since the turbos have been removed,
there could easily be a hose loose. If someone in your area has an intake
pressure tester, then look them up.
I would consider finding a good shop in your area that knows our cars and
have a diagnostic done. For $60 you can have a shop find the exact problem
and replace one part instead of taking shots in the dark.
Good luck.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
------------------------------
A spun bearing is most likely caused by revving the hell out of a cold
engine.
Dont do this.
I think Curtis is right, but what about the cylinder walls, could they have
been scratched at all?
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 19:19:31 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: please help
My VR4's new short block cost $3,200 at Skyline Mitsubishi in
Thornton. It should be a lot less for a N/A. The labor was a
lot. I had the heads rebuilt while the engine was out. I had them
put a new water pump at that time also. When my car left the dealer, the
cost was around $8,000.
I met a guy the other day that had done work on a non turbo. He works
on cars on the side. He owns a N/A 3000GT him self. I don't have his
phone number but know where he lives.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Curtis
McConnell
To: Vic O'Kane ;
team3s@team3s.comSent: Monday, September
16, 2002 5:55 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: please help
Sounds like you spun a bearing? You can check with Mile High Mitsubishi.
When I spun mine they did a total rebuild for $3,800. If I'm not mistaken you
can get a new crank, bearings, and rods should be good. Am I on the right
path?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
2,000 mi on new motor.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vic O'Kane
[mailto:fiendishhq@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 5:45
PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
Team3S: please help
Hey guys,
I broke a rod in my '94 sl 3000gt- I
didn't throw it but its knocking like all hell - I am wanting to know what is
the best course of action- getting a new engine- which a auto wholesaler
has quoted around $3,000 or should I attempt to have the engine rebuilt- and if
so where should I send it? I live in denver, CO- and I'm not sure where to
get the best service for my 3000 - I love my car and I will fix it one way or
the next but I am hoping that all of you experts have some suggestions on
the best way to get me and my car out of this mess-
thanx!
-Vic
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#954
***************************************