Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, September 15 2002 Volume
01 : Number 953
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 11:59:45 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
gabe92rttt@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: low oil pressure
My low oil pressure was cause by crankwalk. The thrust washers fell
out and at idle hardly any oil would pass through the crank, thus causing low
oil pressure. I doubt yours is that extreme since it is vary rare for a 3S
to experience crankwalk, but just a thought.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Justin Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 13, 2002 10:07 AM
Subject: Team3S: low oil
pressure
12345678901234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012345678901234567890
>
does anyone know what might be the cause of the low oil pressure in my
>
car at idle. i have a 91 stealth r/t na. it has 90k miles, new
ecu/fuel
> filter/k&n fipk/timing belt/water pump/plugs/wires/ and
then some. oil
> pressure stays at the middle hash mark when i am
driving, but after the car
> warms up- if it sits at a light the oil
pressure drops almost the the bottom
> hash mark. i also notice that
the car has a very poor launch in this
> condition even with normal
driving. if i slowly bring the revs up, the
> pressure rises and it
launces fine. timing is good. any suggestions?
>
> thanks,
Justin
------------------------------
I have a Stillen down pipe with the re cat undegutted (?? -- means I did
not gut it).
Runs fine.
Also, we can put it back to stock in case emission controls come along. I
have the stock system sitting over in the corner of the garage, along with the
entire stock dual exhaust system
When I put big turbos on, I will probably gut the cat.
Rich/slow old poop
>Eric Gross has that setup and he is not complaining.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 14:23:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf"
<
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Strange overheating problem
I have a 1993 Stealth ES with no mods that I have owned since new and that
has been very well taken care of. I've recently begun to have a "strange"
overheating problem (see below) that I'm having trouble figuring out. Since my
experience with repair shops suggests they have trouble sorting this car (often
takes a long time or 2-4 tries to get it right) I'd like to get some ideas
before I take it into the mechanic.
The car has 76K on it. I've changed the oil and filter every 3-4K since new
and the engine purrs like a kitten. There's no smoke or steam in the exhaust.
The water pump was replaced and the timing belt changed at about 60K and the
radiator and all water hoses were replaced at about 68K. There are no coolant
leaks and the fans come on when the air conditioning is turned on at idle (at
this time of year the AC is on all the time). There are no leaves or other
debris blocking the radiator.
Now for the problem. When I drive around town everything is OK, the
temperature gauge holds at a little below the half way point which is where it
normally is on this car, city or highway. When I get onto the interstate an get
up to 70 mph or so, things may be OK for awhile, but then the temperature starts
to climb and will usually hang at about 3/4 of the range of the gauge (normally
I'd expect it to be at a little below the 1/2 way point as described above). If
I get into a high load situation, such as climbing a hill, it goes higher. I
haven't hit the red bar at the top of the gauge yet, but once it came awful
close. For now, I just drive it around the city until the problem (whatever it
is) can be fixed.
I'd appreciate any ideas that anyone can offer.
Thank you,
Steve Kempf
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 12:29:52 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Value of Car ( Buying - Selling a Stealth or 3000GT )
{ I'm making this reply a bit more detailed than normal, for other people
who are considering selling or buying a turbo Stealth or 3000GT, (for our
archives). It's an highly personal view, but some of these points should
be considered when you add mods to your car, since not all mods will be
attractive to everyone else. If you are shopping for a turbo 3S, it may
help you make note of some things you should look for (or look to
avoid)...}
Hey, Brad,
(Your geocities site started bombarding me with popups and cookies, so I
only got a glimpse of the car before shutting it down...) Since we're
looking for a '94+ turbo 3S, I'm going to give you some "tough love" input, from
one kind of potential "buyer-type". We're looking for a turbo for street
and track, and (like with our current '94 non-turbo), a car for us to take trips
in. We want red, and low mileage, and excellent condition, which is why I
looked at yours. "Low miles" and "great condition" are the best selling
points for any car.
First thing I noticed was that the pic of the Eclipse (conveniently?)
covers up your line, "and runs a verified 13.5 @ 105mph...". It's a
respectable time, but indicates that you raced the car - not a big selling
point, even to those of us who race... There may be other *younger* buyers
out there who will appreciate all the mods you've added, but you should realize
that not everyone considers all your mods to be "added value". The Apexi,
BOV, DN pipes, Magnacors, and K&N are the only 'valuable' mods to our
"buyer's eye".
If the car were stock, the price range would be $20k (low) to $26k (dealer
high). But you lowered it too much to race, or even drive on anything but
smooth roads (thanks, Intrax), then you put 19" wheels on it, and took away
cargo space with a boom box. Those BOZZ Speed Dual Cannons may be
impressive to "fast & furious" types, but we wouldn't want to listen to that
annoying rumble on a long trip. And a buyer from any state that requires
emissions tests will have to spend some big money to have the cats put back into
the system. None of which mods enhance the value of the car to "our kind"
of buyer, even though they cost you serious money. Unless someone who
spots your ad happens to want *exactly* those mods, it will be difficult to
recoup that part of your investment. You need to hope for "the right
buyer" to get back what the car is worth to you.
To most people, oversized wheels are useless except for show cars, so
unless you find someone who wants it for show, those beautiful 19's actually
*lower* the car's value. Your sound system takes up precious cargo space,
and prevents most people from even considering taking a trip in it, which
further lowers the selling price. {John Boyd has one of the best-modded
red '93 TTs I've ever seen, with the second best sound system (that takes up the
entire cargo area) I've ever heard - it's 4 years now that he can't find "the
right" buyer.} The non-stock front end similarly does nothing to bump up
the price - probably the opposite. Many of us don't like the '99 look,
especially the spoiler. And not all of us are fans of Indiglo gauges,
either.
Obviously, you'd prefer to sell it "as is". With any luck you'll find
another young, single guy who never takes trips (or travels light), from a state
that doesn't test emissions, who likes a loud exhaust and the '99 "look", and
with $20k+ to burn for a 5-yr-old car that's been raced. ;-) But if
you don't sell it right away, you may want to consider the following:
Remove the "boom box" part of the sound system, and sell it separately for
what you can get for it. Same for the wheels - put back the stock wheels
and sell the 19" wheels separately. Hopefully you'll find a young person
who wants a (mostly) stock car that looks like "a kid owned this", (because of
the newer front end). I'm not casting aspersions against what *you* wanted
YOUR car to be - that's your prerogative, and it was a valid personal statement.
But most people who are looking for a recent VR-4 are *not* 19 and single, and
they are looking for an unmodded, stock car. Their "statement" is most
likely going to be different than yours, and they'll want the option of choosing
what their own "statement" will be.
I'd advertise it for $21k OBO ($22.5k with 19"-ers and sound) on the Team3S
list, and for $23.5k on autotrader.com ($25k with 19"-ers and sound).
There *will* be others who want that kind of modded car, and maybe you'll get
lucky. But if you don't get any takers right away (and you're in a hurry), I
think you might end up getting more of your investment back by selling the 19's
and boom box separately. And you might sell the car faster in closer to
stock "trim".
Again..., this is just one man's opinion - YMMV. Good luck!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 00:22:11 -0400
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Strange overheating problem
Steve,
Sounds like a bad thermostat! I have seen problems like
this on other vehicles. While your there, flush the system and replace the
coolant. Good luck,
Dave Thrower, 92 Stealth R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 00:37:14 EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Crash course in A-pillar gauges
I want to get 3 A-pillar gauges for my SL. . .EGT, oil temp, and intake
pressure.
How on earth do i hook them up?
thanx
mike
- -97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 10:06:18 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crash course in A-pillar gauges
Well, as far as I understand, an SL does not have any forced induction and
therefore there is no intake pressure at all, you will never see any pressure
;-) Furthermore there is also a very low danger for high exhaust temperatures
and you have no use for an EGT meter. Oil temp is ok although it will be pretty
stable (again, no high power tuning).
If you just want to have gauges in an SL, then first install a vacuum meter
with the vacuum line mounted in the rubber ellbow after the MAS. This tells you
when the filter starts to become restrictive or is clogged up. Then maybe an A(F
meter if you have any air/fuel equipment. Also a clock would be nice. And an FP
meter if you play with the fuel pressure or a digital voltmeter to see when the
alt or batt goes south. Maybe also water temp but you already have one.
> I want to get 3 A-pillar gauges for my SL. . .EGT, oil temp, and
intake pressure.
>
> How on earth do i hook them up?
>
>
thanx
> mike
> -97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 10:02:16 EDT
From:
GaMoparRacing@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Help with clean up / fog lights
Thanks for the help. But I have another question, how do I get my fog
lights
on with my high beems and side markers?
Eric
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 17:19:24 +0200
From: Andrzej Artymowicz <
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #952
Hi!
I've got a problem with my '95 base (N/A). Yesterday I've found that
engine has difficulties to go beyond 2500-2600RPM range. Engine stops in
this RPM area. Sometimes on idle when I accelerate very slowly engine
behaves normally, but on driving conditions its very hard to drive. It's
not a problem with gasoline. I tried to disconnect batteries but it
doen't help either. Any recommendations?
thanks
andrzej from Poland
------------------------------
Hey gang:
My beautiful daughter Cathy is going to give up her equally beautiful 91
Stealth TT.
She had a baby and her priorities have changed. It's four door
time for them!
Before she puts it on E-bay, I thought we'd throw it out to the list.
This car is absolutely immaculate. This is a perfect car for anyone looking
for a low mileage TT Stealth with all the correct mods -- chromies, Borla, DSBC,
lowered, and a WARRANTY in effect until January 2003. It looks good,
sounds good, and turns heads as it rumbles by.
The car is in Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
Offers in excess of $9,000 will be entertained. (Book is $8K, but that's
for a stocker with probably 100,000 miles -- this is low mileage with all the
mods and a warranty still in effect).
Rich/slow old grandpoop
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#953
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