----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Sep 2002 12:02:56 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT!! I need some quick advice from a
lawyer
PLEASE!!!
Doug is right about making peace with the neighbor.
My
neighbor is an asshole. I filed for a permanent restraining
order
against him and his family. I am not going to get into how it
came
about.
He brought a lawyer and I brought all the neighbors.
His lawyer saw us
and advised my neighbor to move.
We spent about 4
hours at the court. The judge was ready to make a
ruling in about 15
minutes.
I walked up to my neighbors and said that what ever the judge
says, we
will both loose. We are neighbors, we both have kids, I want
my kids to
be able to go to you in case of an emergency and I
want your kids to
be able to come to our house if there is an emergency. I
said this is
absolutely stupid and I want to work things out
right now and not have
a third party decide for us.
We both decided to
stop the stupid bull shit. When the Judge came back,
we told the Judge that
we did not want him to decide.
We now talk all time. My wife still
hates his guts but she talks to
him.
Rgds
Moe
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Cc:
<
nws3@yahoogroups.com>; "'Team
3s'" <
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>;
"
Stealth@Stls. Verio. Net" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Thursday, September 12, 2002 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT!!
I need some quick advice from a
lawyer PLEASE!!!
> You are not
legally responsible at all just as everyone else has said.
> I would
think about a way to make peace with your neighbor, though.
> You
have to live next to him and if he gets mad enough then he may do
some
> nasty things to you or your property. The kind of things that you
> know he did but could never prove.
>
> I say go out and
find a free kitten, and offer it to him. Not many
> people can
resist a kitten and it will lighten the mood up a bit.
>
>
Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
> Dead cat under front wheel
mod.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 12:18:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: rebuilding my TT engine??
Hi marc,
You'll need color
coded inserts. Check the color code
on your bearings before you
throw them away.
If you don't have the chart from the Mitsu
rebuild
manual, Email me and I'll send it to you.
Be of good
cheer,
John
send mail to
JCZooM@iname.com- --- Marc Gauthier
<
gogauthier@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> I'll be rebuilding my engine pretty soon and I'm not
>
rich! (so I'm not going
> with forge pistons)
> Let me know if I
forget something!
>
> Boring out the block
> Polishing the
crankshaft
> Connecting Rod (I'll most likely get them shot-peen)
>
Complete gasket kit with bearings (clevite 77),
> pistons (heat coated)
and
> rings (total seal)
> New lifters
> New oil pump
>
Port and polish the heads
> Port and polish the exhaust manifold
> 3
angel job on the valves
>
> The pre-cats are gutted as
it's!
> Will inspect the 9b's, but they were rebuild 2 years
>
ago!
>
> Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 14:29:08
-0500
From: <
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A/D Converter
snip<"Cleaned, straightened, tightened,
etc...now the car generally will
start but generates 4 consistent engine
errors:
- - - air intake
- - - ECT
- - - TPS
- - -
Baro
Here's the weird part: diagnostics run off the under-dash ECM port
shows
- - -50degree coolant temp, 19v battery, and impossible TPS and
Baro
readings. But taking a reading _directly_ from each of those
sensors
shows that the actual readings are correct, and sensors
at each of
those places are sending the correct voltage.
Checked some
continuity from sensor to firewall, and also noted that
these 4 or 5 bad
readings do NOT all come from the same wire harness, so
we're
thinking this means the ECM is screwed...but if so, why does
the
ECM continue to give SOME good readings (load, advance, etc are
all
valid)?
Can anyone shed some light?">snip
It's likely
that these four signals share an A/D converter. It's
probably the A/D
itself or the op-amp right ahead of it. Grouping
signals like this
is standard practice because the converters cost
money and all
the signals have to wait to get onto the digital bus
anyhow.
If
someone had a block diagram or even a parts list for the ECM I could
make an
educated guess at what needs replacing.
Jim W
92 3000GT
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:49:14
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: A/D Converter
If the ECU sees 'out of range' readings, in most
cases it will
substitute a std value. Check the limp in mode for the inputs
that are
bad.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com
[mailto:jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com]
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002
12:29 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: A/D Converter
snip<"Cleaned, straightened, tightened,
etc...now the car generally will
start but generates 4 consistent engine
errors:
- - - air intake
- - - ECT
- - - TPS
- - -
Baro
Here's the weird part: diagnostics run off the under-dash ECM port
shows
- - -50degree coolant temp, 19v battery, and impossible TPS and
Baro
readings. But taking a reading _directly_ from each of those
sensors
shows that the actual readings are correct, and sensors
at each of
those places are sending the correct voltage.
Checked some
continuity from sensor to firewall, and also noted that
these 4 or 5 bad
readings do NOT all come from the same wire harness, so
we're
thinking this means the ECM is screwed...but if so, why does
the
ECM continue to give SOME good readings (load, advance, etc are
all
valid)?
Can anyone shed some light?">snip
It's likely
that these four signals share an A/D converter. It's
probably the A/D
itself or the op-amp right ahead of it. Grouping
signals like this
is standard practice because the converters cost
money and all
the signals have to wait to get onto the digital bus
anyhow.
If
someone had a block diagram or even a parts list for the ECM I could
make an
educated guess at what needs replacing.
Jim W
92 3000GT
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:33:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo Question
Hi 3S guys: I have a 92 VR4. I guess the rear turbo
is
having some problem. Some metal contact noise comes
out under boost
when the engine is cool. I have some
questions:
1. What happen if one
turbo seized and I don't fix it.
Is it going to hurt other parts?
2. My
budget is kind of low. Can I just put in 1 13g
or 15g turbo and mix it with
the stock 9b turbo?
Please give me some
advise
Anthony
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 22:45:49
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo Question
> 1. What happen if one turbo seized and I
don't fix it.
> Is it going to hurt other parts?
If something in
that turbo comes loose there's the
chance the piece could get sucked through
the
intercooler and into the engine. Slim chance, but
possible. If it is still spinning, and not totally
seized, then
small metal shavings from the bearing
and/or compressor wheel could get into
the intake fairly
easily and potentially cause some issues. If the
bearing is shot, it can drop chunks of itself down into
the oilpan, or
clog the oil drain line.
> 2. My budget is kind of low. Can I just put
in 1 13g
> or 15g turbo and mix it with the stock 9b turbo?
It has
been done with no apparent ill effects. It isn't
the best way to go,
but in a pinch it'll work. The
person who did that is on the 3si
messageboards, and
used a 13G and a stock 9B with reasonable success.
I'd
personally recommend matching your turbo sizes if at all
possible.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 16:03:50
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Value of Car
Hey Guys,
Just wondering if anyone would be
willing to look at
http://www.geocities.com/bradford.rm/carsforsale.html
and tell me what
they think the value of the 3000GT is.
Thanks.
- -Brad
1997 3000GT VR-4 (For Sale)
2001
Eclipse GT (For Sale)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 18:11:32
-0700
From: Greg Gonzales <
stealth@fitnessolutions.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Poor Gas Mileage 92 Stealth TT
I wanted to know if some can me
some more things to check to try and
figure out why my gas mileage has gone
down the tubes as of about 1
month ago.
Now I had been averaging about 17
city 25-27 highway, now down to 15
city. 21 highway
My car a 92 Dodge
Stealth TT with 60k.
Here is what I have done and checked
- - Plugs and
wires replaced at 45k
- - Tire pressure checked
- - PCV valve replaced at
40k
- - Replaced the front O2 sensor 500 miles ago, will replace rear when
I
have time.
Now I have not at the 60k service done yet. I also
have not replaced the
fuel filter which I am thinking could be the cause.
Maybe the pcv
valve??
Any ideas?
Thanks
Greg Gonzales
92 RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 21:20:39
EDT
From:
GaMoparRacing@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Help with clean up
-
--part1_35.2cd42988.2ab3e8e7_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hey there
guys, I have just got a 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T black on
black,
this
is my first 3/S and I am trying to clean it up. My question is how
do
you clean a black car. This is the first car I have had that was
black
and I
cannot keep it clean, I washed it this morning and came back
an hour
later
and it was dirty. If any one has any thing that might
help I would
appreciate it.
Thanks,
Eric
1994 Dodge Stealth
R/T
Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 22:13:30
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: low oil pressure
changed your oil lately?
Ken
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On
> Behalf Of Justin Sturgeon
>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 12:08 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: low oil pressure
>
>
> does anyone know what
might be the cause of the low oil pressure in my
> car at idle.
i have a
> 91 stealth r/t na. it has 90k miles, new ecu/fuel
filter/k&n
fipk/timing
> belt/water pump/plugs/
> wires/ and
then some. oil pressure stays at the middle hash mark
> when i
am
> driving, but
> after the car warms up- if it sits at a light
the oil pressure
> drops almost
> the the bottom hash
>
mark. i also notice that the car has a very poor launch in this
>
condition/
> even with normal
> driving. if i slowly bring the
revs up, the pressure rises and
> it launches
> fine. timing
is good.
> any suggestions?
>
> thanks,
Justin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 21:24:10
-0500
From: "Michael Neill" <
dblxx@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: low oil pressure
As the group suggested, changing oil and or
viscosity will make a huge
difference. Mitsubishi told me this was normal,
when the needle drops
down to the bottom, you are running about
25 psi. My needle only
returns to "normal" around 2500 rpm. I run 10w30 and
when the car is
cool, oil pressure is high naturally. So far no
squealing metallic
sounds from the engine and no oil pressure warning light.
Mike '97 VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "Justin
Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 13, 2002 9:13 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: low oil
pressure
> changed your oil lately?
>
>
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 19:26:44
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: low
oil pressure
do you get the oil pressure light yet?
if not, try
this: (this assumes that you car is manual transmission)
pull
up your e-brake to the max.
pop it in 1st gear, and let the clutch go VERY
SLOWLY. don't kill the
engine. let the rpms fall down to about 200. your oil
pressure light
should come on. if it doesn't then the oil
pressure switch is bad or
the bulb is burnt. if the oil pressure light does
come on, then perhaps
your oil pressure is just fine and
something else is causing your poor
launches.
Riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 19:21:12
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Help with clean up
Paint it white
!!!
Jim
Berry
==================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
GaMoparRacing@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday,
September 13, 2002 6:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Help with clean up
>
Hey there guys, I have just got a 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T black
on
black,
> this is my first 3/S and I am trying to clean it up.
My question is
how do
> you clean a black car. This is the first
car I have had that was
black and I
> cannot keep it clean, I washed
it this morning and came back an hour
later
> and it was dirty.
If any one has any thing that might help I would
> appreciate it.
>
> Thanks,
> Eric
>
> 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T
>
Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 19:39:59
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Help with clean up
Buy one of those dry dusters. Great for quick
clean-ups. That way after
a car wash, you can keep the car clean by giving it
a quick 2-minute job
every other time you
drive.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt - black
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 22:43:42
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: low oil pressure
I just had my oil changed to 15-50 today, with a
new filter. On a warm
start, I was getting -no- oil pressure.
Gauge didn't move, engine was a
knocking. fixed, warm start
goes to 2nd bar. I was on 10W-30, now am
in an even warmer climate, too
(who isn't this summer?)
Ken
sorry for the blabber, extreme
exhaustion
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Neill
[mailto:dblxx@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 10:24
PM
> To: Ken Stanton; Justin Sturgeon;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: low oil pressure
>
> As the group suggested,
changing oil and or viscosity will make a huge
> difference.
Mitsubishi told me this was normal, when the needle drops
> down to the
bottom, you are running about 25 psi. My needle only
> returns to
"normal" around 2500 rpm. I run 10w30 and when the car is
> cool, oil
pressure is high naturally. So far no squealing metallic
> sounds from
the engine and no oil pressure warning light. Mike '97
> VR-4
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> To: "Justin
Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>;
>
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 9:13 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: low oil
pressure
>
> > changed your oil lately?
> >
> >
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 19:46:03
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Exhaust - okay to leave one pre-cat
I'm going to get a stillen downpipe,
ATR high-flow race cat, and the ATR
singleshot catback. The stillen downpipe
will eliminate one precat and
leave the other precat on there. Is
that okay? The muffler guy that
I'm going to is pretty touchy about
emissions, so I doubt that he would
be willing to drill out the
other pre-cat. I could do it myself, but
it's a pain. Also, since it's rusty
I'd be worried that drilling through
it would make it fall apart.
I
have considered using the ATR DP with a set of pre-cat eliminators,
but those
things cost $500!
One more thing. Assuming that it's okay to leave the
one pre-cat on
there, about how much HP would that cost
me?
Thanks,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 23:16:26
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust - okay to leave one pre-cat
At 22:46 9/13/2002, Riyan
Mynuddin wrote:
>I have considered using the ATR DP with a set of pre-cat
eliminators,
>but those things cost $500!
And you will have to
remove the rear turbo and the perhaps front turbo
to
pull the stock
pre-cats out. It's a PITA and a major project. Since you
are
going to
take it to a shop and not do it yourself you would spend an arm
and a leg
on this.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 23:21:17
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help with clean up
At 22:39 9/13/2002, Riyan Mynuddin
wrote:
>Buy one of those dry dusters.
You means a static duster?
One of those green furry sticks that attract
dust
electrostatically?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 20:25:26
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Exhaust - okay to leave one pre-cat
After searching the old digests,
that's exactly what I read. Any idea
whether having only one pre-cat would
create some kind of balance issue,
or does it just not matter?
Like I said, I don't want to drill the
existing one since it's old and
rusty.
Thanks,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
waiting for a shiny
new exhaust
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 20:32:27
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Help with clean up
No, those wouldn't do too much for a car. I mean the
big soft brush
ones. Basically there's many small fibers and it's soft enough
to not
scratch your paint, but rigid enough to get a good deal of
dust off
the car when it's dry. The one I bought was from Target and it's
called
the "California Car Duster"
***********
You means a
static duster? One of those green furry sticks that attract
dust
electrostatically?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 23:34:32
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help with clean up
Most likely he doesn't mean the "As Seen On
TV" Magna-Duster but a real
"California Duster" brand of duster that the pros
use at the car show.
Once the car is *mostly* clean you can use the quick
2-minute shine like
the spray and wipe dry stuff (Mother's has some, 3M has
some, they all
have their own kind). But the car needs to
be clean of dirt first and
the hood can't be hot or it dries
instantly.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Philip
V. Glazatov
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 23:21
At 22:39 9/13/2002,
Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
>Buy one of those dry dusters.
You means a
static duster? One of those green furry sticks that attract
dust
electrostatically?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 01:21:19
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust - okay to leave one pre-cat
At 23:25 9/13/2002, Riyan
Mynuddin wrote:
>After searching the old digests, that's exactly what I
read. Any idea
>whether having only one pre-cat would create some kind of
balance
>issue, or does it just not matter? Like I said, I don't want to
drill
>the existing one since it's old and rusty.
Eric Gross has
that setup and he is not complaining.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 01:59:15
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help with clean up
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren
Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002
22:21
To:
'team3s@team3s.com'Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help with clean up
Eric - Congrats and welcome (I have a
black '95 VR-4 with cream
interior) Is this still a technical
question? =) Wash it with some
good car wash (Mother's, Turtle
Wax, 3M, etc.) and dry it with a chamois
cloth. This will
prevent water spots and if you just washed it then
it should not look
dirty. Rinse often and use lots of water while
washing. I usually go
over it twice. Once to get most of the stuff
off and the
second time for the final pass which takes just a few
minutes but lets me
rinse the whole car at once then dry it.
Once it is clean you
can begin waxing. Some products are made for dark
cars. I have a
bottle of 3M but it is more like scratch-remover and a
combo wax
for dark cars (the liquid/paste is dark).
Also, if there are
scratches from an automatic car wash then it got a
coat of auto wax and then
you wash and wax it those spider-web scratches
and swirl marks
are under many layers of wax that makes it nearly
impossible to remove them
all without getting to the very bottom and
starting all over with a
paint job.
I just deal with a car that is swirl-marked and
scratched when you get
less than two feet away with the sun bouncing off of
it but 8 feet or
more away it looks just beautiful. Besides
- any picture of the
entire car is far enough away that you will never see
it.
- --Flash!
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
GaMoparRacing@aol.comSent: Friday,
September 13, 2002 21:21
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Help
with clean up
Hey there guys, I have just got a 1994 Dodge Stealth
R/T black on
black, this is my first 3/S and I am trying to clean it
up. My question
is how do you clean a black car. This
is the first car I have had
that was black and I cannot keep it clean, I
washed it this morning and
came back an hour later and it was
dirty. If any one has any thing
that might help I would appreciate
it.
Thanks,
Eric
1994 Dodge Stealth
R/T
Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 08:57:19
-0400
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Drivetrain noise - or is it the engine?
Hi folks:
I'm still
deciding on how much I want to put into my 92 RT/TT (150,000
miles). It's
still on it's original transmission, although it definitely
needs
replaced - 2nd gear crunches and will pop out of (2nd) gear
while
decelerating.
The difficult diagnosis for me is the noise it makes: a
metallic whine
that rises and falls with RPMs, even if it's not in gear It
does seem
louder while the car is moving, so I am wondering
whether this is
transmission or something in the engine..........?
The
Mitsu dealer told me it's the transfer case a while back. It wasn't
as noisy
then. They told me that the xfer case was so bad that they
couldn't see
how the AWD was still working (but it was, and
still
does)
Any opinions? What drivetrain components continue to spin
when the car
is parked and in neutral?
The car is still quite happy to
run but shows its age in rattles,
whines, bumps and grinds.
I'm
prepared to put $5,000 or so into it, but the thought that I could
sell it as
is for $3,000 - $4,000 and then get a lower mileage
replacement for
around $10-15k is also attractive.
Mike
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 07:42:42
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Drivetrain noise - or is it the engine?
With the clutch released the
transmission input shaft is still spinning.
Try depressing the clutch and see
if the sound changes --- when the
clutch is depressed the
transmissions internals should coast to a
stop,
although the throwout
bearing is now active.
Jim
Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
> I'm still
deciding on how much I want to put into my 92 RT/TT (150,000
> miles).
It's still on it's original transmission, although it
> definitely needs
replaced - 2nd gear crunches and will pop out of
> (2nd) gear while
decelerating.
>
> The difficult diagnosis for me is the noise it
makes: a metallic whine
> that rises and falls with RPMs, even if it's
not in gear It does seem
> louder while the car is moving, so I am
wondering whether this is
> transmission or something in the
engine..........?
>
> The Mitsu dealer told me it's the transfer
case a while back. It
> wasn't as noisy then. They told me that the xfer
case was so bad that
> they couldn't see how the AWD was still working
(but it was, and still
> does)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 10:40:17
-0500
From: "Mark & Brenda" <
mebmark@airmail.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Slipping out of 5th
Hi folks! Bad news took her on a good little
drive yesterday and guess
what, with cruise control on at 75mph about 40
miles later it pops out
of 5th, I'm glad the fuel pump shuts of
at 7500rpm or I might have had
a blown engine on top of it all. Today I open
the hood and look the
tranni over, it has never been busted down
to where you have to get to
the bushings and 1 2 3 and 4th synchros. The old
silicone is still in
tack, the bolts are not scared, the tranni
is still dirty, all they
did was maybe replace 5th gear and
synchro, not sure they did that
either. Well anyhow as I'm typing I just
called them and confronted
them, he went to stuttering, They want me to bring
it back Monday, and
said it will be done right this time, I told them I
wanted to see it
when it was torn down and I wanted my old parts
or I was going to my
lawyer. They promised to call me and give me all the
parts, I'm punch
marking all the bolts I can get to and taking
digital dated pics of
the dirt and dirty silicone this morning. Still its
hard to believe they
would try to pull something like this.
One hot Team
3s member.. Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 11:47:32
-0600
From: "Justin Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: low oil pressure
thanks for the reply. i did just
change to oil. this has been a
somewhat
ongoing problem. i
can't see any blue smoke. launches seem to be both
rough and
sluggish. mostly sluggish. it almost feels like the car
just
doesn't have decent power, than all of a sudden it will just take
off.
acceleration is fine everywhere except launch, and only on launch
when
the
car has been sitting at the light
for more than a few
seconds. launch from a stop sign is fine, from a
light
it's not so
good. i'll check the oil pressure light. thanks for the
suggestions and keep them coming.
justin
>As the group
suggested, changing oil and or viscosity will make a huge
>difference.
Mitsubishi told me this was normal, when the needle drops
>down to the
bottom, you are running about 25 psi. My needle only
>returns to "normal"
around 2500 rpm. I run 10w30 and when the car is
>cool, oil pressure is
high naturally. So far no squealing metallic
>sounds from the engine and
no oil pressure warning light. Mike '97 VR-4
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
>To: "Justin
Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Friday, September 13, 2002 9:13 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: low oil
pressure
>
> > changed your oil lately?
> >
> >
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#952
***************************************