Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Friday, September 13 2002  Volume 01 : Number 951

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:18:22 EDT
From: <pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: OT:Turbocharging an NA engine

Okay guys i have an engineering question for ya:

I need to turbocharge an NA engine, not a 3/s one either (hence OT)...

How do i pick out a turbo - what engine properties do i need to know to
figure out the proper size, etc.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Since this is OT, it'd be great if you could just reply off-list...

Thanks,

Alex.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:18:37 EDT
From: <pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: OT:Turbocharging an NA engine

Okay guys i have an engineering question for ya:

I need to turbocharge an NA engine, not a 3/s one either (hence OT)...

How do i pick out a turbo - what engine properties do i need to know to
figure out the proper size, etc.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Since this is OT, it'd be great if you could just reply off-list...

Thanks,

Alex.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:56:23 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Curious about Supra Fuel Pump

Did you change out your fuel filter when you changed out the fuel pump?
If not, how many miles ago did you change it?

Chuck Willis

 I am somewhat at a loss as to why it
would take longer to start up.  Any assistance would be greatly
appreciated. 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:16:37 -0400
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Curious about Supra Fuel Pump

THE O-RING, THE O-RING, THE O-RING!

The O-ring that seals the pump output stem was either rolled during the
installation or is too small for the new stem.

Take the pump assy out. Dip it into a bucket with water, plug the outlet
with your finger and connect 12V. It should leak only from the blow-off
valve.

Philip

- ---------------------------------------------

Hey guys, I wanted to see if anyone else here has installed the supra
fuel pump?  I just installed it about 2 weeks ago and have noticed the
car seems to   take longer to turn over then with the Mitsubishi one.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 12:20:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Electric Window Re-Install Question

No help on this? Not a peep, has anyone else done
this? Hate to go pay the shop an hour labor for
something that will take a knowledgeable guy about a
minute to do....
Roger L
F15DOC

- --- Roger Ludwig <yiotta@yahoo.com> wrote:
> OK gang, I replaced my electric window drive rail,
> what a MAJOR PITA!!!
> Now I will also need to have the tinting redone
> thanx
> to multiple gouges in it from removing and
> reinstalling the window :(
>
> My question is:
> There are several adjustable "lashes" that support the
> upper part of the window ('canter' for lack of a
> better term), one in the front and one in the back of
> the window.
> I cannot for the life of me get the rear one back into
> the door.
> If the window is out and you install the adjuster it
> is impossible to get the window back in.
> If the window is in you cannot install the adjuster
> because there is not room to get it back in, that is
> true in all window positions (Up, down and all points
> in-between).
> I spent over an hour of cussing and stressing the door
> frame and window to near breaking points to get this
> dang thing in.
> PLEASE PLEASE!!!! Does anyone know the trick to this
> thing? It is the rear one and has two small hooks that
> hook up over the top of the door frame with a single
> tab that fits in a groove. It has an allen wrench
> screw that you can adjust by turning that will push
> the adjuster against the window to force it out, or
> if
> you loosen it, that will bring the window in
> further.... I cannot get this thing back in....
> Roger L
> F15DOC

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:10:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Electric Window Re-Install Question

Might try your local glass shop.  Might be cheaper
than SATAN. 

I've only done a window once and it had a crank.  and
yes it was PITA too.

Glenn

- --- Roger Ludwig <yiotta@yahoo.com> wrote:
> No help on this? Not a peep, has anyone else done
> this? Hate to go pay the shop an hour labor for
> something that will take a knowledgeable guy about a
> minute to do....
> Roger L
> F15DOC

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:01:50 -0500
From: Drew Mouton <drew@irev2.com>
Subject: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

Hey All,

Following up the fuel problems I've been troubleshooting since last week

or so, here's what's happened:

- - recall that it's a '92 3GT, 5-speed, normally aspirated
- - all of a sudden started having start problems, and ultimately
wouldn't
- - start at all

I've been working with my buddy at his shop (nice to have shop quality
tools). We thought it was fuel pump related - pressure was slightly low,

so we replaced it. That didn't help. Continued troubleshooting, pulled
the plenum up and found the back plugs had gotten fouled.

Cleaned, straightened, tightened, etc...now the car generally will start

but generates 4 consistent engine errors:
- - air intake
- - ECT
- - TPS
- - Baro

Here's the weird part: diagnostics run off the under-dash ECM port shows

- -50degree coolant temp, 19v battery, and impossible TPS and Baro
readings. But taking a reading _directly_ from each of those sensors
shows that the actual readings are correct, and sensors at each of those

places are sending the correct voltage.

Checked some continuity from sensor to firewall, and also noted that
these 4 or 5 bad readings do NOT all come from the same wire harness, so

we're thinking this means the ECM is screwed...but if so, why does the
ECM continue to give SOME good readings (load, advance, etc are all
valid)?

Can anyone shed some light?

Thanks,

Drew

It appears that on 8/29/2002 3:55 PM, Gross, Erik at
erik.gross@intel.com
said:

>Also, before yanking/replacing your fuel pump, you might want to
>install a fuel pressure gauge to see if you're getting pressure.  You
>can get one at most auto parts stores for $30-$40 and install it in
>under 15 minutes (plan for 30 if it's your first time).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:09:09 -0500
From: Drew Mouton <drew@irev2.com>
Subject: Re: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

Also: does anyone in Team3S land have an available known good ECM they'd

sell or loan to me so I can rule out that it's the ECM?

(I'm in New Orleans, LA).

Drew

It appears that on 9/12/2002 4:01 PM, Drew Mouton at drew@irev2.com
said:

>Hey All,
>
>Following up the fuel problems I've been troubleshooting since last
>week
>or so, here's what's happened:
>
>- recall that it's a '92 3GT, 5-speed, normally aspirated
>- all of a sudden started having start problems, and ultimately
>- wouldn't start at all
>
>I've been working with my buddy at his shop (nice to have shop quality
>tools). We thought it was fuel pump related - pressure was slightly
low,
>so we replaced it. That didn't help. Continued troubleshooting, pulled
>the plenum up and found the back plugs had gotten fouled.
>
>Cleaned, straightened, tightened, etc...now the car generally will
>start
>but generates 4 consistent engine errors:
>- air intake
>- ECT
>- TPS
>- Baro
>
>Here's the weird part: diagnostics run off the under-dash ECM port
>shows
>-50degree coolant temp, 19v battery, and impossible TPS and Baro
>readings. But taking a reading _directly_ from each of those sensors
>shows that the actual readings are correct, and sensors at each of
those
>places are sending the correct voltage.
>
>Checked some continuity from sensor to firewall, and also noted that
>these 4 or 5 bad readings do NOT all come from the same wire harness,
so
>we're thinking this means the ECM is screwed...but if so, why does the
>ECM continue to give SOME good readings (load, advance, etc are all
>valid)?
>
>Can anyone shed some light?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Drew
>
>It appears that on 8/29/2002 3:55 PM, Gross, Erik at
>erik.gross@intel.com
>said:
>
>>Also, before yanking/replacing your fuel pump, you might want to
>>install a fuel pressure gauge to see if you're getting pressure.  You
>>can get one at most auto parts stores for $30-$40 and install it in
>>under 15 minutes (plan for 30 if it's your first time).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:10:23 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: Team3S: OT!! I need some quick advice from a lawyer PLEASE!!!

I was hoping I could find a lawyer to give me some quick advice, I am
not going to use the advice in court or anything, I just need to know if
I can be held   responsible in ANY way and if so what I should do.

Here's my situation. We own a lab/pit mix dog and our neighbor's car got
into our yard and our dog got it. The cat is not dead, but close enough,
the vet   bill *would* be about $2000 and he expects us to pay it. This
neighbor is a real bully type, my next door neighbor hates him (they
live next to each other),   threatened my wife basically and scared her
to death saying that he has already talked to his lawyer and we better
do something "or else". My wife is a vet   tech, and every doctor at
work says that we are not responsible at all, I just want to make sure
there are no legal exceptions.

Here is the thing, a while ago (month or so?) our dog got out of the
yard (wife left the gate open) and he brought our dog back into our
yard, he claims that   he was chasing the cat around then, but did not
catch him. And the other day when the cat came into our yard, the
neighbor came into our yard to get his cat   cause he claims he heard
the dog barking a whole lot and making a big fuss. We had company over
that day and she heard him bark once or twice and that was   it. So now
he's saying our dog is a vicious child killing pit bull (loves people,
has NEVER come even CLOSE to EVER biting a person, he just goes after
small   animals (cats, mice, and squirrels, he's caught one of each)
like all those kinds of dogs (hunters, hounds, whatever).

So, I'm not sure what he had in mind with talking to his lawyer and "or
else" but everything I have heard is he cant do anything legally since
the cat was in   our yard. Is there anything I am missing that he can
do?? I have given all the info I can think of pertaining to this.

Matt Nelson

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:22:20 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: ECM wacko

From: "Drew Mouton" <drew@irev2.com>
> Also: does anyone in Team3S land have an available known good ECM
> they'd sell or loan to me so I can rule out that it's the ECM?
> (I'm in New Orleans, LA).
> Drew
- -------------------------->

First thing to check when you see "ECM wacko" is the battery.  Stick in
a new one (OR known *strong one*) and see what happens.

Good luck!

- -Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:30:55 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

19 Volts at the Battery. That is not good. There should never be more
than 14 or 15 volts in the charge system. Your voltage regulator,
alternator, or both    may be bad. That in turn may have fried some of
the ECM circuits. You need to fix the charge circuit before looking
elsewhere or you may destroy more things,   including known good
components you use for testing.

Good luck - Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:31:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: OT!! I need some quick advice from a lawyer
PLEASE!!!

Lol,
What a neighbor you have, you have nothing to worry about here except
for bad neighbor relations.  Past history in this case is meaningless.
The cat was in your yard which means your neighbor failed to control
his pet.  He is completely responsible.  If your dog got scratched then
your neighbor is responsible for your vet bill.  Don't sweat it, you
are not even slightly at risk here.
Roger L
F15DOC

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:37:25 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OT!! I need some quick advice from a lawyer
PLEASE!!!

Try polishing the intake and using a set of ball bearing turbos.

:)

[definitely OT]

No, but really you're right. I'm no lawyer, but I do know that if you're
going to let your pet run free, then you're accepting the risk of it
getting   injured, chased, or even killed. I have a bright idea. How
about if I go stand on the freeway and sue the first car that hits me? I
bet your "intimidating"   idiot neighbor doesn't even have a lawyer. If
he's dumb enough to try to blame you for something that's HIS fault, how
the hell could he afford a lawyer?   What's he gonna do if you don't
pay? Chase you down in his PINTO?? By the way, if you live anywhere near
me, I'll be more than happy to show up in court if   my schedule
permits.


Riyan
93 stealth rt tt

- -oh, and did I mention that you can print this e-mail out and tape it
to his
door??-

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of BlackLight
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 1:10 PM
To: nws3@yahoogroups.com; 3sracers@speedtoys.com; 'Team 3s';
Stealth@Stls. Verio. Net
Subject: Team3S: OT!! I need some quick advice from a lawyer PLEASE!!!

I was hoping I could find a lawyer to give me some quick advice, I am
not going to use the advice in court or anything, I just need to know if
I can be held   responsible in ANY way and if so what I should do.

Here's my situation. We own a lab/pit mix dog and our neighbor's car got
into our yard and our dog got it. The cat is not dead, but close enough,
the vet   bill *would* be about $2000 and he expects us to pay it. This
neighbor is a real bully type, my next door neighbor hates him (they
live next to each other),   threatened my wife basically and scared her
to death saying that he has already talked to his lawyer and we better
do something "or else". My wife is a vet   tech, and every doctor at
work says that we are not responsible at all, I just want to make sure
there are no legal exceptions.

Here is the thing, a while ago (month or so?) our dog got out of the
yard (wife left the gate open) and he brought our dog back into our
yard, he claims that   he was chasing the cat around then, but did not
catch him. And the other day when the cat came into our yard, the
neighbor came into our yard to get his cat   cause he claims he heard
the dog barking a whole lot and making a big fuss. We had company over
that day and she heard him bark once or twice and that was   it. So now
he's saying our dog is a vicious child killing pit bull (loves people,
has NEVER come even CLOSE to EVER biting a person, he just goes after
small   animals (cats, mice, and squirrels, he's caught one of each)
like all those kinds of dogs (hunters, hounds, whatever).

So, I'm not sure what he had in mind with talking to his lawyer and "or
else" but everything I have heard is he cant do anything legally since
the cat was in   our yard. Is there anything I am missing that he can
do?? I have given all the info I can think of pertaining to this.

Matt Nelson

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:38:47 -0500
From: Drew Mouton <drew@irev2.com>
Subject: Re: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

Let me clarify: the ECM *says* it's got 19v at the battery, but a meter
on the battery shows a consistent 12-14v (which is what the gauge inside

the cabin says as well).

Similarly, the ECM says it's got -50degrees on the coolant temp sensor,
but taking a reading off the sensor directly puts the actual temp at
150degrees or so (within spec).

Same for TPS and Baro - good readings when taken on the sensor wire, but

wacked info coming off the ECM. Which makes me think the ECM is bad.

On the other hand, the ECM continues to give good readings on other
metrics.

Weird?

Drew

It appears that on 9/12/2002 4:30 PM, Andrew Woll at awoll1@pacbell.net
said:

>19 Volts at the Battery. That is not good. There should never be more
>than 14 or 15 volts in the charge system. Your voltage regulator,
>alternator, or both  may be bad. That in turn may have fried some of
>the ECM circuits. You need to fix the charge circuit before looking
>elsewhere or you may destroy more things, including known good
>components you use for testing.
>
>Good luck - Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:46:44 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: ECM wacko

Before you replace the battery you better measure the voltage at the
battery with the engine running. It should be an absolute max of 15v and
preferably   between 13 and 14V.  If it is, then try the better battery.

Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:48:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT!! I need some quick advice from a
lawyer PLEASE!!!

The guy can call your dog whatever he wants, if he goes to court his
calling your dog that would be struck..its not fact.

His cat.

Your back yard.

Do the math..have fun smiling in court.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 18:03:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: kimbyrd@webtv.net (Kimberly Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: loss of power

I own a 1994 3000GT non-turbo with an automatic transmission. The cars
runs great except when I start up a hill. If I take the hill from a
moving pace, it   does okay. But, if I come to a dead stop and then
start up a hill, it doesn't have much power and sputters. What could
this mean? When I say that it has no   power, that is even with the
overdrive off. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 17:17:48 -0500
From: Drew Mouton <drew@irev2.com>
Subject: RE: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

Thanks Jay - I wanted to cc' your msg to the list, because I thought it
was great info we don't see much of (might help someone else).

We'll pull the ECU tonight or tmrw and see if we can figure out which of

these chips is bad. (Too bad we don't have a great electronics supply
places in town; I'll probably have to order something from Digikey just
to test it).

Drew

It appears that on 9/12/2002 5:12 PM, Jim Fay at jfay@tssu.com said:

>I would guess the ECU.  The inputs are usually op amps, clustered 4 to
>a chip.  It you can open the ECU (like in the cap replacement~might try

>that
>first) and replace the chip (that i would bet all four of these inputs
feed
>into) it should take care of the prob.  The op amp chips are a fairly
>standard item at electronics part warehouses.
>
>Jim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:26:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: loss of power

This car has 225 horse power stop. Not only should you
have no problem going uphill, you should accelerate
uphill without a problem.
The possibilities for lost horsepower are numerous,
from air/fuel mixture to fuel pump (uphill worsens
fuel pump problems) to clogged injectors...
You will probably need the shop to diagnose this for
ya, good luck!
Roger L.
F15DOC

- --- Kimberly Byrd <kimbyrd@webtv.net> wrote:
> I own a 1994 3000GT non-turbo with an automatic
> transmission. The cars
> runs great except when I start up a hill. If I take
> the hill from a
> moving pace, it does okay. But, if I come to a dead
> stop and then start
> up a hill, it doesn't have much power and sputters.
> What could this
> mean? When I say that it has no power, that is even
> with the overdrive
> off. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 10:47:39 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

You've got a 92, original ECU, if it's not faulty now it soon will be,
get it rebuilt, that will be the end of your problems.

Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 17:06:45 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject: RE: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

With weird readings from some of the registers and not others, maybe
your ECM's got a bad ground or one of the sensor wires might have a
direct ground. I   would test the ground wire for correct resistance
(almost nothing) and the hot wire for matching voltage with the battery
then  isolate the ECM except for   the power, try the sensors by
connecting them one at a time. The voltage "might" be taken off the hot
for the ECM so it might not have an external wire. I   don't have a
manual (yet) so I'm guessing. Electrical fault hunting is best done
slowly and methodically by eliminating as many factors as you can first
then   putting them back together one at a time. usually works for me
*_*

Pete Rivenburg
Privenburg@firstam.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 17:21:33 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT!! I need some quick advice from a
lawyer PLEASE!!!

You are not legally responsible at all just as everyone else has said.
I would think about a way to make peace with your neighbor, though.  You
have to live   next to him and if he gets mad enough then he may do some
nasty things to you or your property.  The kind of things that you know
he did but could never   prove.

I say go out and find a free kitten, and offer it to him.  Not many
people can resist a kitten and it will lighten the mood up a bit.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Dead cat under front wheel mod.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 19:34:49 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hey tire dude

Thanks to all who responded.
The new tire is in. I'll mount the tire in question on a dented alloy
rim and use it for a spare.

Rich/slow old poop/time to retire.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 21:19:27 -0500
From: "Mark & Brenda" <mebmark@airmail.net>
Subject: Team3S: Not slipping out of 5th anymore!

Hi folks, first let me say thanks to everyone for your support! I think
she is fixed this time, I stress tested her hard in 5th tonight, Saw 110
and had   plenty left to go, they replaced the spring and ball that
holds her in gear, something Jim was thinking could have been the prob,
I would have checked that   after you told me Jim but she was already at
the shop, well it very well may have been most of the original prob, but
5th was worn to, I did see that. I'm   going to take her for a good 175
mile road trip this weekend, that way I'll know for sure she is fixed,
at least I have a 6 month 6000 mile warranty! Well   that's about it for
now other than I want to say thanks again for everyone's reply, this
group is like psycho therapy to me when I'm felling as bad as I was
last night, I hope I didn't whine to much? Take care I'll let ya know
how she turns out, BTW the tranni job turned out to cost 1400.00 after
they had to 5th   gear from the dealer...

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 23:51:40 -0500
From: "Michael Neill" <dblxx@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Woes...

I have recently bought a '97 VR-4, and went over the 60k mile limit for
the warranty when I heard an unusual noise from under the hood. I had
the local Mitsu   dealer diagnose the soft, rattling noise as a
throw-out bearing in the clutch. What aftermarket clutch best suits my
needs, I am a highway warrior so far   with no mods, but plan on making
a few "minor" changes to the engine to increase horsepower and I don't
want to put an inferior clutch system that won't last   another 60k
miles. Thanks,

Mike Neill
Springfield, Tennessee

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:16:16 -0700
From: "Robert Koch" <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tranny parts info?

cost of rebuilding or replacing? got my questions into Kormex right now.
My car will not go into 2nd at all. I would like to know if possible if
just the 1-2   synchro will fix it....or is it worth it to do all of
them since I will be cracking it open. Any advice from the experienced
members on this subject? 1900   for a new....got a quote for 1650 from
some other than kormex company...won't mention it. How much are
synchros? I have been told the eclipse will work on   the NA's as well
is this true....

any help would be appreciated

bobk.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:27:48 -0700
From: "Robert Koch" <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tranny parts info?

Just a little to add here for a history.....new flywheel, solid hub
clutch 6 puck ( I like it) and Lucas oil in the tranny. Everything else
is stock for the   record....this happened when the throw-out bearing
took a hike and I had to start it in gear and grinding into 2nd to get
home was a must........please hold   the bantering  I know, I
know...should have towed it home but it was like 4 miles away and 75
bucks seemed expensive then....so after doing some search it   looks
like the dealer will have my parts? any idea as to what I should ask
for? A kit, part numbers...bla bla bla.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Robert Koch
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 10:16 PM
To: Team3S@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Tranny parts info?

cost of rebuilding or replacing? got my questions into Kormex right now.
My car will not go into 2nd at all. I would like to know if possible if
just the 1-2   synchro will fix it....or is it worth it to do all of
them since I will be cracking it open. Any advice from the experienced
members on this subject? 1900   for a new....got a quote for 1650 from
some other than kormex company...won't mention it. How much are
synchros? I have been told the eclipse will work on   the NA's as well
is this true....

any help would be appreciated

bobk.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:23:09 -0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Woes...

I just recently installed a Stage3 SPEC clutch from 3SX and a friend of
mine got done with a Stage3 RPS (Sprung Hub). I have seen both and felt
both. I would   say that both are going to be a bit too sport for you if
you are a highway warrior. Both clutches require you to rev to 3k if you
want smooth acceleration.   On both the engagement area is VERY small
and they feel almost like a clutch switch, ether on or off. Very good
for drags, not good around town. I love mine   and got used to it in
about 2 weeks but I have always been good with stick cars. The stock
clutch is a complete POS. Mine was replaced right before I got my   car
I never really abused it, almost never raced from a full stop. Then
after about a year I took it to the track. Six hard launches later I had
to buy a new   clutch. My advice to you would be to get ether the Spec
Stage 2 from http://www.3sxperformance.com/clutch.asp or the "Street
disk" from
http://www.dynamicracing1.com/customer/product.php?productid=41&cat=7&pa
ge=1
Both should have smoother engagement than the Stage 3's and more
durability than the absolute garbage stock clutch.

Tyson

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Michael Neill
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 9:52 PM
To: Team3S@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Woes...

I have recently bought a '97 VR-4, and went over the 60k mile limit for
the warranty when I heard an unusual noise from under the hood. I had
the local Mitsu   dealer diagnose the soft, rattling noise as a
throw-out bearing in the clutch. What aftermarket clutch best suits my
needs, I am a highway warrior so far   with no mods, but plan on making
a few "minor" changes to the engine to increase horsepower and I don't
want to put an inferior clutch system that won't last   another 60k
miles. Thanks,

Mike Neill
Springfield, Tennessee

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 18:05:38 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

NO

Electrical fault hunting is best done by eliminating known common
problems, not tracing step at a time like a scientist, I do it for a
job, if I did it the   slow way I couldn't make a living.

Steve

> Electrical fault hunting is best done slowly and methodically by
> eliminating as many factors as you can first then putting them
> back together one at a time. usually works for me *_*
>
> Pete Rivenburg
> Privenburg@firstam.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 10:22:10 -0500
From: Drew Mouton <drew@irev2.com>
Subject: Re: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

We're going to pull the ECU this morning, then I'm going to fire up my
soldering iron, open up my Digikey catalog and see if it actually has
standard replaceable op amps. I'm a little afraid it'll end up being
something proprietary in the "spirit" of an op amp...if anyone's done
this, I'd definitely be interested in some pointers.

Alternately, I remember seeing a post about someplace that rebuilt and
warranteed ECUs, but I didn't see it at team3s.com or the list archives.

Can anyone remind me?

Thanks,
Drew

It appears that on 9/12/2002 5:47 PM, Steve Cooper at
scooper@paradise.net.nz said:

>You've got a 92, original ECU, if it's not faulty now it soon will be,
>get it rebuilt, that will be the end of your problems.
>
>Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 10:07:39 -0600
From: "Justin Sturgeon" <justinstur@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: low oil pressure

does anyone know what might be the cause of the low oil pressure in my
car
at idle.  i have a 91 stealth r/t na.  it has 90k miles, new ecu/fuel
filter/k&n fipk/timing belt/water pump/plugs/wires/ and then some.  oil
pressure stays at the middle hash mark when i am driving, but after the
car warms up- if it sits at a light the oil pressure drops almost the
bottom hash mark.  i also notice that the car has a very poor launch in
this condition even with normal driving.  if i slowly bring the revs up,
the pressure rises and it launches fine.  timing is good.
any suggestions?

thanks, Justin

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 09:14:13 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tranny parts info?

Hang on there, Bob.... this is your car, right?  Like the grabber green
'93/99 R/T NA?

If so, then you don't need to talk to Kormex or CRS or anyone other than
a normal tranny shop or the dealer.  The NA 5-speed is completely
rebuildable and   parts should be as available as any other part for
your car.  I had mine rebuilt under warranty (1st, 2nd, and the 1/2
synchro assembly) and I think it would   have been only a couple hundred
in parts if I'd have had to pay for it.  Labor is the thing that'll kill
ya... 8 hours or so.

CAPS has all the internal diagrams with part numbers if you attempt this
yourself.  Should be fairly straight-forward for anyone who has cracked
open a   tranny casing before.  But that would not include me :-)

- --Erik
'95 VR-4
'95 NA (sold in '01)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 11:59:21 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: ECM wacko (was RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem)

m&s recycling will sell you a refurbed ECU with yours as core.  I went
that route for my '93 VR4.

=
Alternately, I remember seeing a post about someplace that rebuilt and
warranteed ECUs, but I didn't see it at team3s.com or the list archives.

Can anyone remind me?
=

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 13:47:17 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: part number for injector wire loom

While doing some maintenance I noticed that the black plastic wire loom
cover for the front injector wires is broken and I want to get another
one, but can   not seem to locate it in CAPS, and the parts guy I called
isn't sure what I am talking about.

Can anyone tell me where it is located in CAPS so I can give him the
part number ?

Thanks

Anthony Melillo

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #951
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