Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, September 8
2002 Volume 01 : Number
947
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 7 Sep 2002 21:31:39 -0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Used or Rebuilt Turbos?
Well, I couldn't figure out my smoke
problem myself or with you all's
help so I finally decided to have a mechanic
take a crack at it. The
mech supposedly has over 12+ years experience
with import sport cars.
He showed me a 5-in thick scrapbook of his "work",
lots of pics of
supras, 300Z, M3s, and of course, Stealth and 3KGTs
that he has worked
on so i figured he was reputable. I start telling him the
symptoms and
he's like "stop, i just fixed a TT 300Z with the same
problem last
week. I can charge you my $55 diagnostic fee and take a look at
it or
you can take my word that it's a blown turbo" And then he said
that
he'd bet his money it was the rear one. Seems like he knows of
the
problems our car have. Now the question, what would be better
(price,
performance, and durability wise): a pair of used turbos with
low
miles, say 40K or rebuild the ones the car has now? Also, anybody
out
there near NYC or within reasonable driving distance want to earn a
few
bucks to help me with the swap cuz I really can't afford to pay a
pro
mechanic to do it for me?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 03:33:37
-0500
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thanks for the help about parts swapping
I have become convinced
that the lifter tick symptom on my car may have
more to do with oil level
than oil type and here is why. When I bought
by 97 VR4 last year
I was hearing lifter tick. As a matter of course, I
was on a mission to
replace all fluids end-to-end and one being the
engine oil. I had
decided to use Red Line products - a synthetic. I
presumed the prior
owner had probably been using a petroleum-based oil
upon discovering one of
those 'quick lube' reminder stickers on the
inside of the windshield
and wanted to flush as much of the dino oil and
dirt out as I could before I
started using the high dollar Red Line.
First step was Oil Change
to Mobile1 10W-30 Synthetic / Filter: Bosch
Premium #3312 / Added CD2 Oil
cleaner. Incidentally, I was hearing more
lifter tick after I finished
up and discovered I had slightly over
filled. Specs say the VR4 holds 4 Qt.
Pan, .5 Qt Filter, .5 Qt Oil
Cooler. If you overfill, the crank
agitates/aerates the oil and causes
the hydraulic lash adjusters to
misbehave. I crawled back under the car
and after a few iterations,
dribbled out enough to line up to full mark
on the dip stick. Lifter
tick diminished and was overall better than
before I started . I ran it with
this mix for ~ 1300 Miles.
Second step was the change to Red Line 10W-30
/ Filter: Purolator
PureOne PL14459. Lifter tick was less prevalent than
before right after
this event but still returned most often when the
car is idling and not
setting level. I have been running for ~ 3600 miles and
now rarely ever
hear the tick return. My oil level is currently
2/3 down from full
mark on the dip stick and I believe at this level is being
subjected to
less aeration effect. At next oil change (very
soon), I plan to fill
slightly less than to the full mark.
Dan
97
VR4
82K miles
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Carson"
<
rcarson1@bigred.unl.edu>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, September 07, 2002 8:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: Thanks for the help
about parts swapping
< snip >
As for getting rid of my lifter
tick I think it has to do with something
more than dirty oil because I am
running AMZOIL with less then 1000
miles on it. I did note
however when I switched to AMZOIL the noise
from the lifters did go down
somewhat. Thanks everyone
Robert
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 03:58:00
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks for the help about parts swapping
An easier way to get
rid of lifter tick is to take the car out and run
it very hard. Crank up
those Rs, pull lots of boost, and violate traffic
laws a few times
over. After 25 miles of such treatment, the lifter
tick is usually
gone.
It's best to stick to stock Mitsu oil filters, BTW. Something to do
with
an extra check valve for the turbos.
Rich/slow old
grandpoop
>Second step was the change to Red Line 10W-30 / Filter:
Purolator
>PureOne PL14459. Lifter tick was less prevalent than before
right after
>this event but still returned most often when the car is
idling and not
>setting level. I have been running for ~ 3600 miles
and now rarely ever
>hear the tick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 09:55:34
-0500
From: "Mark & Brenda" <
mebmark@airmail.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Blue oil smoke at idle
Hi folks, its me again the newbie. I have
another prob now that I just
don't understand with my 92ES non turbo, when
it's idling for more than
a minute it will begin to pour blue smoke out
the tailpipe, if I rev it
up and hold it at about 1500 to 2000 RPM it will
stop but let it idle
again and it will start, it really does it bad
when the A/C is on. I
have followed my wife in it and it don't smoke going
down the road and
the dipstick is not showing very much oil consumption
at all. I did a
fresh oil change when I took it home and after about 450
miles the level
is still about the same. There are no leaks to indicate
blow by, the
bottom of the engine is dry and clean. Is there some kind of
valve like
a pcv that could be malfunctioning and dumping oil in the intake
at
idle? or do these engines use low tension rings and maybe my oil
rings
are just stuck? Thanks in advance, Mark.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 08:39:59
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Thanks for the help about parts swapping
I've been touting that as a cure
for lifter tick for two years ---- a
weekend at the track usually cures any
lifter problems for a few
thousand miles at least.
As to
filters, that extra check valve line is some kind of commie lie
--- the
factory filters and for that matter most quality filters have a
check valve
to prevent oil from draining out of the filter when the car
is turned
off. In our engines it's of little significance as the filter
is mounted
almost vertically so the oil will not drain out anyway ---
this does
not constitute an endorsement for the use of cheap
filters.
Jim Berry
=====================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
An easier way to get rid of lifter tick is to take the car out and
run
> it very hard. Crank up those Rs, pull lots of boost,
and
violate traffic laws a few times over. After 25 miles of such
treatment,
the lifter tick is usually gone.
> It's best to stick to
stock Mitsu oil filters, BTW. Something to do
> with an extra check valve
for the turbos.
> Rich/slow old grandpoop
>
> >Second step
was the change to Red Line 10W-30 / Filter: Purolator
> >PureOne
PL14459. Lifter tick was less prevalent than before right
> >after
this event but still returned most often when the car is idling
>
>and not setting level. I have been running for ~ 3600 miles and now
>
>rarely ever hear the tick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 11:40:26
-0500
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thanks for the help about parts swapping
Rich
I concur with
you 100% on the benefit of a 'run it very hard' exercise
to clear out lifter
tick. For many months after I bought my VR, I went
through the
period of having a serious wild hare up my a_s. I really
wanted to see what
this car could do in the curves and experience
whatever top-end it
could
deliver. Finally, a friend with a Porsche and I decided to
go
hunt for some twisty roads and be naughty for a day. So I took a
day
off work at mid-week before the vacation season when traffic
would be
low and left Texas heading for some select back roads of Oklahoma
at
5AM. 600 miles later I was back home by late afternoon even
with a
couple hours down time for needed coffee, smoke and lunch breaks
along
the way. I figure we averaged something around 90 miles per hour
for
the moving part of the trip and the Mitsu performed
absolutely
beautifully. On a couple open stretches in Oklahoma where there
was good
visibility I run her up to 140. There was more to be had
but the voice
in my head finally said I'll be going to jail if I continue
to
perpetuate this insanity. All-in-all a great day with no tickets and
I
got rid of that wild hare (Also appreciated a little peace of mind
from
my K40).
Bottom line - I didn't hear any tick at all for a couple
weeks after
that run.
I'll look into that stock Mitsu oil filter. This
is the first I had read
a comment about it - thanks.
Dan
97
VR4
82K miles
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 08, 2002 3:58 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Thanks for the help
about parts swapping
An easier way to get rid of lifter tick is to take
the car out and run
it very hard. Crank up those Rs, pull lots of boost, and
violate traffic
laws a few times over. After 25 miles of such
treatment, the lifter
tick is usually gone.
It's best to stick to
stock Mitsu oil filters, BTW. Something to do with
an extra check valve for
the turbos.
Rich/slow old grandpoop
>Second step was the change
to Red Line 10W-30 / Filter: Purolator
>PureOne PL14459. Lifter tick was
less prevalent than before right after
>this event but still returned
most often when the car is idling and not
>setting level. I have been
running for ~ 3600 miles and now rarely ever
>hear the
tick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 19:51:04
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Battery cable-National Backorder
I tried to get a Negative
Battery Cable and the dealer told me I had to
buy it as a package with the
Positive cable, which was fine. I figured I
would do a little
preventative maintenance and replace the positive
cable anyway.
After
waiting a could of weeks and the cables still aren't in, I called
the dealer
Friday, and he told me that the cables are still on
Nationwide
backorder and he has no idea when they will be in stock.
Anyone
ever heard of this and can this be true ?
Thanks
Anthony
Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 22:19:48
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Nology Hotwires
What do you guys think about these wires:
http://nology.com/hot.html- ---
Quote:
Nology HotWires are the most technologically advanced ignition wires
available. HotWires create the most powerful spark possible. HotWires
are
engineered with a special built-in capacitor, exclusive only to
HotWires.
This revolutionary design allows energy from the ignition coil to
accumulate in the capacitor until the voltage at the spark
plug
electrodes
reaches the ionization point. At that split second point
the entire
power
of the stored spark is discharged at once, creating a
spark 300 times
more
powerful. The result is faster, more complete
combustion, and most
importantly, MORE HORSEPOWER that's 100%. Smog
Legal.
- --- End quote.
This sounds like a gimmick to me. I have no
idea how a 2c capacitor that
is
inside of each of these wires could make
things so much better that I
would
pay $263 for a set. They do not have
an application for the 3S, but I am
sure something could be worked out if
there is some tangible benefit.
Does
anyone have any idea why nobody else
puts capacitors in their spark plug
wires?
Philip
P.S.
There is a Supra guy on the AEM ECU forum who claims to have
achieved
a
monstrous spark with the AEM ECU, LS1 coils and Nology Hotwires.
According
to him, the Nology wires are just an additional benefit. He
says
that
those LS1 coils are the ones that really kick a$$. But you have to
have the
AEM ECU to be able to use them... Those LS1 coils are really
cheap
and
you could have that monstrous spark for under $300. I may try it
when I
have nothing else left to do.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#947
***************************************