Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Saturday, September 7 2002  Volume 01 : Number 946

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:04:09 -0400
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine

Hey all,

I almost blew up my engine. The hose that goes to the boost controller
solenoid got pulled off of the Y-pipe (probably from the engine rocking
while I was   road racing at Gingerman at the NG.

Someone else on the list (Russ?) blew up his engine just like this. I
was just too mindful of the boost gauge and that saved my engine. I
remember that   during my driving at Gingerman the boost controller was
overboosting and was not responding to minor adjustments. So I just gave
up on it at that time and   decided to enjoy the track while controlling
my boost with my right foot. Recently that started to bug me and I
decided to figure out what was going on. The   boost solenoid hose was
sitting right next to the Y-pipe nipple. My boost control solenoid was
not attached to the wall, but I think it got tangled in   various vacuum
hoses and when the engine jerked it was pulled off of the Y-pipe.

A longer hose is coming in along with a little screw-type hose clamp. A
spring steel clamp failed to hold it. It would be nice to install
polyurethane engine   mount bushings, but there are more urgent upgrades
that are already waiting in line.

Philip

An update on the AEM ECU: I do not use the AFC anymore and I drive my
car to work every day now. The drivability is decent up to 12 psi boost
and it will be   better now that I fixed my boost leak out of that
Y-pipe nipple. Adjusting fuel maps is relatively easy. For developing
new maps a wideband O2 is almost a   must, but if a good map is already
available, then someone might get away without it targeting that
0.90-0.96 O2 voltage like we all did with piggyback   AFC's. However,
what's the point of getting a programmable ECU and not using it to its
fullest?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:09:32 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine

Yup that was me, and don't risk it Phil................      When all is
said and done I will have spent almost 16K on this damn car (not
including
price of the car).   All because I didn't bother with a set of $300
engine
mounts(that and I really didn't feel like freezing my behind off in the
middle of March here in good ole CT).

> -----Original Message-----
> From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com [SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 1:04 PM
> To: team3s@team3s.com
> Subject: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine
>
> Hey all,
>
> I almost blew up my engine. The hose that goes to the boost controller

> solenoid got pulled off of the Y-pipe (probably from the engine
> rocking while I was road racing at Gingerman at the NG.
>
> Someone else on the list (Russ?) blew up his engine just like this. I
> was just too mindful of the boost gauge and that saved my engine. I
> remember that during my driving at Gingerman the boost controller was
> overboosting and was not responding to minor adjustments. So I just
> gave up on it at that time and decided to enjoy the track while
> controlling my boost with my right foot. Recently that started to bug
> me and I decided to figure out what was going on. The boost solenoid
> hose was sitting right next to the Y-pipe nipple. My boost control
> solenoid was not attached to the wall, but I think it got tangled in
> various vacuum hoses and when the engine jerked it was pulled off of
> the Y-pipe.
>
> A longer hose is coming in along with a little screw-type hose clamp.
> A spring steel clamp failed to hold it. It would be nice to install
> polyurethane engine mount bushings, but there are more urgent upgrades

> that are already waiting in line.
>
> Philip
>
> An update on the AEM ECU: I do not use the AFC anymore and I drive my
> car to work every day now. The drivability is decent up to 12 psi
> boost and it will be better now that I fixed my boost leak out of that

> Y-pipe nipple. Adjusting fuel maps is relatively easy. For developing
> new maps a wideband O2 is almost a must, but if a good map is already
> available, then someone might get away without it targeting that
> 0.90-0.96 O2 voltage like we all did with piggyback AFC's. However,
> what's the point of getting a programmable ECU and not using it to its

> fullest?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 14:03:24 -0400
From: The68th@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator

I brought my car in to have the electrical system tested because I
assumed my alternator went out (I emailed the list about it and some of
you told me to get   the charging system tested).  He said that after
testing the system it was BOTH the battery and the alternator that were
bad, and a bad battery ruined the   alternator.  The rebuilt was going
to be $210 on the alternator, but when I called the place that was
rebuilding it they said it would be from $50-$170.  The   total bill was
going to be a little over $500.00 for a rebuild on the alternator,
installing it, and a new battery.  Is this right or should I be worried?
I  was under the impression that it would run around $300.00, seeing as
a new alternator is only about $130.00 (for the cheap ones).

Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth ES
 -who knows too little about cars

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:21:34 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator

Sounds a little steep to me.  Is it just me, or is it more reasonable
that the bad alternator "ruined" the battery? Someone from Texas
replaced their   alternator on the side of the highway enroute to the
National Gathering.  A rule of thumb is that labor runs about equal to
the replacement parts cost.   Battery = $50 Rebuild of alternator =
$220/2 = $110. $110+50=$160 x 2 = $320. You should ask the mechanic what
hourly rate he is charging (maybe $75
/hour) and how many hours work the job book says (2 hours seems
reasonable?).  Generally the fault diagnosis labor would be waived if
you chose to have him   perform the repair, but he may not see it that
way.  You might price a new alternator, or a used one from M&S recycling
for comparison.

Chuck Willis

- -----Original Message-----
From: The68th@aol.com [mailto:The68th@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 1:03 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator

I brought my car in to have the electrical system tested because I
assumed my alternator went out (I emailed the list about it and some of
you told me to get   the charging system tested).  He said that after
testing the system it was BOTH the battery and the alternator that were
bad, and a bad battery ruined the   alternator.  The rebuilt was going
to be $210 on the alternator, but when I called the place that was
rebuilding it they said it would be from $50-$170.  The   total bill was
going to be a little over $500.00 for a rebuild on the alternator,
installing it, and a new battery.  Is this right or should I be worried?
I  was under the impression that it would run around $300.00, seeing as
a new alternator is only about $130.00 (for the cheap ones).

Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth ES
 -who knows too little about cars

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 15:07:01 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: drive shaft

Hey Songsay!  How is the FWD Subaru Justy doing?  Still getting those 6
gallons of gas to go clear up to Eagle River and back and still have
enough for the   rest of the week?

How are the new viscous coupling parts from that guy in Southern CA
working in the car?  You thought it was the tranny but managed to
diagnose it as just the   VC so mucho bucks saved there.  Any problems
that the list can help with?  Any ideas to relate to others how you
discovered it was not the expensive tranny?

And maybe some people who upgraded to a carbon fiber drive shaft or
something has their old drive shaft sitting around.  Jim Floyd?  You
have anything still   sitting around for Songsay?

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of songsay@cs.com
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 00:58
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: drive shaft

hey, this is the northern lad, up here in alaska. my universal joint on
my drive shaft on my 92 vr 4 went out. i need a replacement shaft, if
anyone has one   hook me up. the front shaft. the one that comes out of
the transfer case.

                                              thanks
                                       songsay

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 15:13:23 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator

I just removed my alternator because it failed also ('91 R/T tt).  To
get it rebuilt is costing $110, and I'm doing the labor myself.  I'm not
an expert   mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but decided to
do it myself. It's the kind of thing where it takes a little while to do
the first time, but once   you do it, you realize it's not that
difficult, and could be done easily again (but hopefully not).  I used
the pics and instructions from Jeff Lucius'   www.stealth316.com page
(thanks Jeff!), and they helped, although I wasn't familiar with the
actual names of some things, so that slowed me down a bit.  All   in all
though, you could do it yourself if you really wanted to.  Obviously, a
battery is around $60 and installing the battery is simple.  A new
alternator   was priced at $240 + $20 core from mitsupartsdirect.com and
around $230 + $100 core from both AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts.

It is quite possible that one went bad and dragged the other down with
it. Just make sure to get the used parts before they put the new ones
on, and go to   your local AutoZone type of place where they test them
for free.  If you find that one isn't bad, then they should put it back
in for free.  Testing takes   about 5 minutes, so it's not like you have
to leave your car there forever while you get it tested.  The battery
has to be charged to be tested though, and   if it is entirely
discharged, you might want to buy a new one anyways.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of The68th@aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 2:03 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator

I brought my car in to have the electrical system tested because I
assumed my alternator went out (I emailed the list about it and some of
you told me to get   the charging system tested).  He said that after
testing the system it was BOTH the battery and the alternator that were
bad, and a bad battery ruined the   alternator.  The rebuilt was going
to be $210 on the alternator, but when I called the place that was
rebuilding it they said it would be from $50-$170.  The   total bill was
going to be a little over $500.00 for a rebuild on the alternator,
installing it, and a new battery.  Is this right or should I be worried?
I  was under the impression that it would run around $300.00, seeing as
a new alternator is only about $130.00 (for the cheap ones).

Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth ES
 -who knows too little about cars

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:12:17 -0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio   x35617d1" <x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject: Team3S: Incline Smoke

Alright, after a couple of weeks of wondering whether it was just a
simple coincidence that large plumes of blueish smoke came out the
tailpipes when I was   driving down a steep incline, I finally got
around to verifying it is not. I had my friend drive my car and I drove
behind in his. We drove around for about   ten minutes to get the engine
nice and warm. I saw no smoke during this period except a little after
long idling periods. We then hit the hill going up   first, no smoke. As
soon as we were going downhill though, all hell broke loose inside the
tailpipes. We tried this again 2 more times with the same results,
very large quantities of blue smoke on a downhill. I'm at a loss to try
to figure this one out. Any suggestions? For those unfamiliar with my
situation, I   have a new block with 3K miles. Heads were resurfaced, 12
intakes valves installed, all new seals and gaskets. Only mods are denso
iridium plugs, K&N FIPK,   magnecor wires, ATR downpipe, gutted
pre-cats, and no main cat.

- -ROD

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 15:12:41 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: 3rd Gen 3Ser born

I have a 94 VR4
My daughter Cathy has a 91 Stealth TT
She just gave birth to a baby girl. That makes three generations,
although it'll be ten years before I can teach her to drive. Anybody
know where I can buy   Stealth/3KGT baby stuff?
The ROWGs I have lunch with got her a Simpson Racing baby seat.

Rich/slow old Grandpoop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:26:57 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Incline Smoke

On a down hill with your foot off or using the motor to slow at all even
a turboed car is pulling a lot of vacuum on the oil spaces, perhaps a
valve seal was   forgotten or rings didn't seat or maybe a leak in the
head gasket between a cylinder and an oil gallery? New motor right? Get
the motor to smoke hard then   turn it off & pull over right away, check
the plugs for oil signs. The rear plugs are tough but can be done with
swivels & small hands. It might be just one   cylinder doing it if it's
not the turbos themselves but the down hill scenario says it's probably
the engine.

Pete Rivenburg
Analyst
Applications, ISD
First American Title
Phoenix, AZ
(602) 685-7523
Privenburg@firstam.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:41:20 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine

How does one diagnose bad engine mounts? 

> All because I didn't bother with a set of $300 engine mounts

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:48:23 -0400
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Incline Smoke

Is the hill really steep? I would bet that if you put less oil in your
engine it will smoke less. What I think is happening, your crank starts
to
pick up oil and throw it on cylinder walls. Drain some oil and give it a
try.

It is still strange though that your engine smokes that much. It should
not if you have a new block.

Philip

- --------------------------------------

Alright, after a couple of weeks of wondering whether it was just a
simple
coincidence that large plumes of blueish smoke came out the tailpipes
when I
was driving down a steep incline, I finally got around to verifying it
is
not. I had my friend drive my car and I drove behind in his. We drove
around
for about ten minutes to get the engine nice and warm. I saw no smoke
during
this period except a little after long idling periods. We then hit the
hill
going up first, no smoke. As soon as we were going downhill though, all
hell
broke loose inside the tailpipes. We tried this again 2 more times with
the
same results, very large quantities of blue smoke on a downhill. I'm at
a
loss to try to figure this one out. Any suggestions? For those
unfamiliar
with my situation, I have a new block with 3K miles. Heads were
resurfaced,
12 intakes valves installed, all new seals and gaskets. Only mods are
denso
iridium plugs, K&N FIPK, magnecor wires, ATR downpipe, gutted pre-cats,
and
no main cat.

- -ROD

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:49:52 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine

If you can feel/hear a clunk between shifts when you drive the car hard
that
is one sign, another is if the motor is rocking back and forth at idle
so
bad that you can really see it (my plenum rocked 1/2" or more when
idling)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J [SMTP:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 4:41 PM
> To: team3s@team3s.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine
>
> How does one diagnose bad engine mounts? 
>
> > All because I didn't bother with a set of $300 engine mounts

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 14:36:07 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Incline Smoke

You would think so, except if it's the head gasket or "something"
happened
to the rings. That sort of thing could happen any time. I had a set of
new
rings crack the oil ring in one cylinder after only four K and it did a
number on the cylinder wall and piston. Sometimes rings stick to a
piston
and oil gets by them. Anyway it's worth the (more or less) easy check to
look at the plugs and rule out the motor. I wonder if the pvc system
would
suck oil? I have very little time inside these particular motors, anyone
out
there know if these motors have a detachable baffle to keep oil out of
the
pvc system? Might check the PVC hose for oil too Rod. Hope it's not
expensive whatever it is. 

Pete Rivenburg
Analyst
Applications, ISD
First American Title
Phoenix, AZ
(602) 685-7523
Privenburg@firstam.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 18:31:09 -0400
From: songsay@cs.com
Subject: [none]

hey, this is songsay up in alaska with the 92 vr4.
of course no one in alaska has any parts or can fix the universal joint
on my car. they want 1500 for the drive line, i said, what. so if anyone
has one lyin   around somewhere please let me know. we can work
something out.
thanks guys.

                             songsay

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 18:24:50 -0500
From: "Mark & Brenda" <mebmark@airmail.net>
Subject: Team3S: Slipping out of 5th

Hi folks! Well it wasn't the nut being loose that caused it to slip out
of
5th gear. I pulled the end cap off and checked it out, it was plenty
tight,
but there is a small amount of play in the shaft so it looks like
bushings
are the prob. Gears and fork looked good. I got a quote 865.00 to
replace
all the synchro's and bushings, seals etc. Sounds good to me, what do
you
guy's think? Oh and thanks for all the reply's to my post. This is a
great
group, I'm lucky to have found ya!  Mark.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 19:54:02 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Slipping out of 5th

The shift fork is held in gear by a spring pre-loaded ball bearing. It
could have just got some girt and stuck there. There is not much that
you
could do without pulling a tranny. I think you found a fair deal on
transmission work. You have an NA, so it is a little easier to work on
it,
but I doubt you would want to turn all those old bolts and nuts yourself
on
a car with 130,000 miles. At least let them loosen them up for you for
the
first time.

Philip

At 19:24 9/6/2002, Mark & Brenda wrote:
>Hi folks! Well it wasn't the nut being loose that caused it to slip out
of
>5th gear. I pulled the end cap off and checked it out, it was plenty
tight,
>but there is a small amount of play in the shaft so it looks like
bushings
>are the prob. Gears and fork looked good. I got a quote 865.00 to
replace
>all the synchro's and bushings, seals etc. Sounds good to me, what do
you
>guy's think? Oh and thanks for all the reply's to my post. This is a
great
>group, I'm lucky to have found ya!  Mark.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 09:07:26 EDT
From: Jawscardodger@cs.com
Subject: Team3S: Mount mount ?

Are the NA and turbo motor mounts the same? Also which years are the
same?
Thanks Jim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 08:29:56 -0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mount mount ?

Yes, the motor mounts are the same for NA and turbos.  '91-'93 are all
the
same.  A change was made for the '94 model year.  '94-'99 are all the
same.
http://www.3sxperformance.com/designs.asp

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jawscardodger@cs.com
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 8:07 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Mount mount ?

Are the NA and turbo motor mounts the same? Also which years are the
same?
Thanks Jim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 18:51:00 -0700
From: "Robert Carson" <rcarson1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Thanks for the help about parts swapping

Last Wednesday I asked if I could switch parts between my two Twin Turbo
cars (300ZX and 3000GT).  I have decided based on the local Nissan
dealership that I am going to keep both cars.  They would only give me
12000
for a car with 74000 miles in perfect condition and most importantly a
perfect title.  The way that I figure with all the work and money that
this
car has invested in it there is no way that I am going to sell it for
12000.
Instead of turning my 3000GT into an all out performance machine I will
make
it look good and sound great.  As for getting rid of my lifter tick I
think
it has to do with something more than dirty oil because I am running
AMZOIL
with less then 1000 miles on it.  I did note however when I switched to
AMZOIL the noise from the lifters did go down somewhat.
Thanks everyone

Robert

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #946
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