Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, September 7 2002
Volume 01 : Number
946
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:04:09 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: Almost blew up my engine
Hey all,
I almost blew up my
engine. The hose that goes to the boost controller
solenoid got pulled off of
the Y-pipe (probably from the engine rocking
while I was road
racing at Gingerman at the NG.
Someone else on the list (Russ?) blew up
his engine just like this. I
was just too mindful of the boost gauge and that
saved my engine. I
remember that during my driving at Gingerman
the boost controller was
overboosting and was not responding to minor
adjustments. So I just gave
up on it at that time and decided to
enjoy the track while controlling
my boost with my right foot. Recently that
started to bug me and I
decided to figure out what was going on.
The boost solenoid hose was
sitting right next to the Y-pipe
nipple. My boost control solenoid was
not attached to the wall, but I think
it got tangled in various vacuum
hoses and when the engine jerked
it was pulled off of the Y-pipe.
A longer hose is coming in along with a
little screw-type hose clamp. A
spring steel clamp failed to hold it. It
would be nice to install
polyurethane engine mount bushings, but
there are more urgent upgrades
that are already waiting in
line.
Philip
An update on the AEM ECU: I do not use the AFC
anymore and I drive my
car to work every day now. The drivability is decent
up to 12 psi boost
and it will be better now that I fixed my
boost leak out of that
Y-pipe nipple. Adjusting fuel maps is relatively easy.
For developing
new maps a wideband O2 is almost a must, but if a
good map is already
available, then someone might get away without it
targeting that
0.90-0.96 O2 voltage like we all did with
piggyback AFC's. However,
what's the point of getting a
programmable ECU and not using it to its
fullest?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:09:32
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine
Yup that was me, and don't risk it
Phil................ When all is
said and done
I will have spent almost 16K on this damn car (not
including
price of the
car). All because I didn't bother with a set of
$300
engine
mounts(that and I really didn't feel like freezing my behind
off in the
middle of March here in good ole CT).
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 1:04
PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com>
Subject: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine
>
> Hey all,
>
> I almost blew up my engine. The hose that goes to the boost
controller
> solenoid got pulled off of the Y-pipe (probably from the
engine
> rocking while I was road racing at Gingerman at the NG.
>
> Someone else on the list (Russ?) blew up his engine just like this. I
> was just too mindful of the boost gauge and that saved my engine. I
> remember that during my driving at Gingerman the boost controller was
> overboosting and was not responding to minor adjustments. So I just
> gave up on it at that time and decided to enjoy the track while
> controlling my boost with my right foot. Recently that started to bug
> me and I decided to figure out what was going on. The boost solenoid
> hose was sitting right next to the Y-pipe nipple. My boost control
> solenoid was not attached to the wall, but I think it got tangled in
> various vacuum hoses and when the engine jerked it was pulled off of
> the Y-pipe.
>
> A longer hose is coming in along with a
little screw-type hose clamp.
> A spring steel clamp failed to hold it.
It would be nice to install
> polyurethane engine mount bushings, but
there are more urgent upgrades
> that are already waiting in
line.
>
> Philip
>
> An update on the AEM ECU: I do
not use the AFC anymore and I drive my
> car to work every day now. The
drivability is decent up to 12 psi
> boost and it will be better now that
I fixed my boost leak out of that
> Y-pipe nipple. Adjusting fuel maps
is relatively easy. For developing
> new maps a wideband O2 is almost a
must, but if a good map is already
> available, then someone might get
away without it targeting that
> 0.90-0.96 O2 voltage like we all did
with piggyback AFC's. However,
> what's the point of getting a
programmable ECU and not using it to its
> fullest?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 14:03:24
-0400
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator
I brought my car in to
have the electrical system tested because I
assumed my alternator went out (I
emailed the list about it and some of
you told me to get the
charging system tested). He said that after
testing the system it was
BOTH the battery and the alternator that were
bad, and a bad battery ruined
the alternator. The rebuilt was going
to be $210 on the
alternator, but when I called the place that was
rebuilding it they said it
would be from $50-$170. The total bill was
going to be a
little over $500.00 for a rebuild on the alternator,
installing it, and a new
battery. Is this right or should I be worried?
I was under the
impression that it would run around $300.00, seeing as
a new alternator is
only about $130.00 (for the cheap ones).
Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth
ES
-who knows too little about cars
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:21:34
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator
Sounds a little steep
to me. Is it just me, or is it more reasonable
that the bad alternator
"ruined" the battery? Someone from Texas
replaced their
alternator on the side of the highway enroute to the
National
Gathering. A rule of thumb is that labor runs about equal to
the
replacement parts cost. Battery = $50 Rebuild of alternator
=
$220/2 = $110. $110+50=$160 x 2 = $320. You should ask the mechanic
what
hourly rate he is charging (maybe $75
/hour) and how many hours work
the job book says (2 hours seems
reasonable?). Generally the fault
diagnosis labor would be waived if
you chose to have him perform
the repair, but he may not see it that
way. You might price a new
alternator, or a used one from M&S recycling
for comparison.
Chuck
Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From:
The68th@aol.com
[mailto:The68th@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 1:03 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator
I brought my car in to
have the electrical system tested because I
assumed my alternator went out (I
emailed the list about it and some of
you told me to get the
charging system tested). He said that after
testing the system it was
BOTH the battery and the alternator that were
bad, and a bad battery ruined
the alternator. The rebuilt was going
to be $210 on the
alternator, but when I called the place that was
rebuilding it they said it
would be from $50-$170. The total bill was
going to be a
little over $500.00 for a rebuild on the alternator,
installing it, and a new
battery. Is this right or should I be worried?
I was under the
impression that it would run around $300.00, seeing as
a new alternator is
only about $130.00 (for the cheap ones).
Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth
ES
-who knows too little about cars
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 15:07:01
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: drive shaft
Hey Songsay! How is the FWD Subaru Justy
doing? Still getting those 6
gallons of gas to go clear up to Eagle
River and back and still have
enough for the rest of the
week?
How are the new viscous coupling parts from that guy in Southern
CA
working in the car? You thought it was the tranny but managed
to
diagnose it as just the VC so mucho bucks saved there.
Any problems
that the list can help with? Any ideas to relate to others
how you
discovered it was not the expensive tranny?
And maybe some
people who upgraded to a carbon fiber drive shaft or
something has their old
drive shaft sitting around. Jim Floyd? You
have anything
still sitting around for Songsay?
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
songsay@cs.comSent: Friday, September 06,
2002 00:58
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: drive shaft
hey, this is the northern lad, up here in alaska. my
universal joint on
my drive shaft on my 92 vr 4 went out. i need a
replacement shaft, if
anyone has one hook me up. the front shaft.
the one that comes out of
the transfer
case.
thanks
songsay
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 15:13:23
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator
I just removed my
alternator because it failed also ('91 R/T tt). To
get it rebuilt is
costing $110, and I'm doing the labor myself. I'm not
an
expert mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but decided
to
do it myself. It's the kind of thing where it takes a little while to
do
the first time, but once you do it, you realize it's not
that
difficult, and could be done easily again (but hopefully not). I
used
the pics and instructions from Jeff Lucius'
www.stealth316.com page
(thanks Jeff!),
and they helped, although I wasn't familiar with the
actual names of some
things, so that slowed me down a bit. All in all
though,
you could do it yourself if you really wanted to. Obviously, a
battery
is around $60 and installing the battery is simple. A
new
alternator was priced at $240 + $20 core from
mitsupartsdirect.com and
around $230 + $100 core from both AutoZone and
Advanced Auto Parts.
It is quite possible that one went bad and dragged
the other down with
it. Just make sure to get the used parts before they put
the new ones
on, and go to your local AutoZone type of place
where they test them
for free. If you find that one isn't bad, then
they should put it back
in for free. Testing takes about 5
minutes, so it's not like you have
to leave your car there forever while you
get it tested. The battery
has to be charged to be tested though,
and if it is entirely
discharged, you might want to buy a new one
anyways.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
The68th@aol.comSent: Friday, September 06,
2002 2:03 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Worried about mechanic with alternator
I brought my car in to
have the electrical system tested because I
assumed my alternator went out (I
emailed the list about it and some of
you told me to get the
charging system tested). He said that after
testing the system it was
BOTH the battery and the alternator that were
bad, and a bad battery ruined
the alternator. The rebuilt was going
to be $210 on the
alternator, but when I called the place that was
rebuilding it they said it
would be from $50-$170. The total bill was
going to be a
little over $500.00 for a rebuild on the alternator,
installing it, and a new
battery. Is this right or should I be worried?
I was under the
impression that it would run around $300.00, seeing as
a new alternator is
only about $130.00 (for the cheap ones).
Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth
ES
-who knows too little about cars
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:12:17
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Incline Smoke
Alright, after a couple of weeks of wondering
whether it was just a
simple coincidence that large plumes of blueish smoke
came out the
tailpipes when I was driving down a steep incline, I
finally got
around to verifying it is not. I had my friend drive my car and I
drove
behind in his. We drove around for about ten minutes to get
the engine
nice and warm. I saw no smoke during this period except a little
after
long idling periods. We then hit the hill going up first,
no smoke. As
soon as we were going downhill though, all hell broke loose
inside the
tailpipes. We tried this again 2 more times with the same
results,
very large quantities of blue smoke on a downhill. I'm at a loss to
try
to figure this one out. Any suggestions? For those unfamiliar with
my
situation, I have a new block with 3K miles. Heads were
resurfaced, 12
intakes valves installed, all new seals and gaskets. Only mods
are denso
iridium plugs, K&N FIPK, magnecor wires, ATR
downpipe, gutted
pre-cats, and no main cat.
- -ROD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 15:12:41
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 3rd Gen 3Ser born
I have a 94 VR4
My daughter Cathy has a 91
Stealth TT
She just gave birth to a baby girl. That makes three
generations,
although it'll be ten years before I can teach her to drive.
Anybody
know where I can buy Stealth/3KGT baby stuff?
The
ROWGs I have lunch with got her a Simpson Racing baby seat.
Rich/slow old
Grandpoop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:26:57
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Incline Smoke
On a down hill with your foot off or using the
motor to slow at all even
a turboed car is pulling a lot of vacuum on the oil
spaces, perhaps a
valve seal was forgotten or rings didn't seat
or maybe a leak in the
head gasket between a cylinder and an oil gallery? New
motor right? Get
the motor to smoke hard then turn it off &
pull over right away, check
the plugs for oil signs. The rear plugs are tough
but can be done with
swivels & small hands. It might be just
one cylinder doing it if it's
not the turbos themselves but the
down hill scenario says it's probably
the engine.
Pete Rivenburg
Analyst
Applications, ISD
First American Title
Phoenix,
AZ
(602) 685-7523
Privenburg@firstam.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:41:20
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine
How does one diagnose bad engine
mounts?
> All because I didn't bother with a set of $300 engine
mounts
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:48:23
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Incline Smoke
Is the hill really steep? I would bet that if
you put less oil in your
engine it will smoke less. What I think is
happening, your crank starts
to
pick up oil and throw it on cylinder
walls. Drain some oil and give it a
try.
It is still strange though
that your engine smokes that much. It should
not if you have a new
block.
Philip
-
--------------------------------------
Alright, after a couple of weeks
of wondering whether it was just a
simple
coincidence that large plumes of
blueish smoke came out the tailpipes
when I
was driving down a steep
incline, I finally got around to verifying it
is
not. I had my friend
drive my car and I drove behind in his. We drove
around
for about ten
minutes to get the engine nice and warm. I saw no smoke
during
this period
except a little after long idling periods. We then hit the
hill
going up
first, no smoke. As soon as we were going downhill though, all
hell
broke
loose inside the tailpipes. We tried this again 2 more times with
the
same
results, very large quantities of blue smoke on a downhill. I'm at
a
loss
to try to figure this one out. Any suggestions? For those
unfamiliar
with
my situation, I have a new block with 3K miles. Heads were
resurfaced,
12
intakes valves installed, all new seals and gaskets. Only mods
are
denso
iridium plugs, K&N FIPK, magnecor wires, ATR downpipe,
gutted pre-cats,
and
no main cat.
- -ROD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:49:52
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine
If you can feel/hear a clunk between
shifts when you drive the car hard
that
is one sign, another is if the
motor is rocking back and forth at idle
so
bad that you can really see it
(my plenum rocked 1/2" or more when
idling)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J
[SMTP:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 4:41
PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Almost blew up my engine
>
> How does one
diagnose bad engine mounts?
>
> > All because I didn't
bother with a set of $300 engine mounts
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 14:36:07
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Incline Smoke
You would think so, except if it's the head
gasket or "something"
happened
to the rings. That sort of thing could
happen any time. I had a set of
new
rings crack the oil ring in one
cylinder after only four K and it did a
number on the cylinder wall and
piston. Sometimes rings stick to a
piston
and oil gets by them. Anyway
it's worth the (more or less) easy check to
look at the plugs and rule out
the motor. I wonder if the pvc system
would
suck oil? I have very little
time inside these particular motors, anyone
out
there know if these motors
have a detachable baffle to keep oil out of
the
pvc system? Might check
the PVC hose for oil too Rod. Hope it's not
expensive whatever it is.
Pete Rivenburg
Analyst
Applications, ISD
First American Title
Phoenix, AZ
(602) 685-7523
Privenburg@firstam.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 18:31:09
-0400
From:
songsay@cs.comSubject:
[none]
hey, this is songsay up in alaska with the 92 vr4.
of course no
one in alaska has any parts or can fix the universal joint
on my car. they
want 1500 for the drive line, i said, what. so if anyone
has one
lyin around somewhere please let me know. we can work
something
out.
thanks
guys.
songsay
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 18:24:50
-0500
From: "Mark & Brenda" <
mebmark@airmail.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Slipping out of 5th
Hi folks! Well it wasn't the nut being loose
that caused it to slip out
of
5th gear. I pulled the end cap off and
checked it out, it was plenty
tight,
but there is a small amount of play
in the shaft so it looks like
bushings
are the prob. Gears and fork looked
good. I got a quote 865.00 to
replace
all the synchro's and bushings,
seals etc. Sounds good to me, what do
you
guy's think? Oh and thanks for
all the reply's to my post. This is a
great
group, I'm lucky to have found
ya! Mark.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 19:54:02
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Slipping out of 5th
The shift fork is held in gear by a spring
pre-loaded ball bearing. It
could have just got some girt and stuck there.
There is not much that
you
could do without pulling a tranny. I think you
found a fair deal on
transmission work. You have an NA, so it is a little
easier to work on
it,
but I doubt you would want to turn all those old
bolts and nuts yourself
on
a car with 130,000 miles. At least let them
loosen them up for you for
the
first time.
Philip
At 19:24
9/6/2002, Mark & Brenda wrote:
>Hi folks! Well it wasn't the nut being
loose that caused it to slip out
of
>5th gear. I pulled the end cap off
and checked it out, it was plenty
tight,
>but there is a small amount
of play in the shaft so it looks like
bushings
>are the prob. Gears and
fork looked good. I got a quote 865.00 to
replace
>all the synchro's
and bushings, seals etc. Sounds good to me, what do
you
>guy's think?
Oh and thanks for all the reply's to my post. This is a
great
>group,
I'm lucky to have found ya! Mark.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 09:07:26
EDT
From:
Jawscardodger@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
Mount mount ?
Are the NA and turbo motor mounts the same? Also which
years are the
same?
Thanks Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 08:29:56
-0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mount
mount ?
Yes, the motor mounts are the same for NA and turbos.
'91-'93 are all
the
same. A change was made for the '94 model
year. '94-'99 are all the
same.
http://www.3sxperformance.com/designs.aspOskar
'95
R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
Jawscardodger@cs.comSent: Saturday,
September 07, 2002 8:07 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Mount mount ?
Are the NA and turbo motor mounts the same? Also
which years are the
same?
Thanks Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 18:51:00
-0700
From: "Robert Carson" <
rcarson1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Thanks for the help about parts swapping
Last Wednesday I asked
if I could switch parts between my two Twin Turbo
cars (300ZX and
3000GT). I have decided based on the local Nissan
dealership that I am
going to keep both cars. They would only give me
12000
for a car
with 74000 miles in perfect condition and most importantly a
perfect
title. The way that I figure with all the work and money
that
this
car has invested in it there is no way that I am going to sell
it for
12000.
Instead of turning my 3000GT into an all out performance
machine I will
make
it look good and sound great. As for getting rid
of my lifter tick I
think
it has to do with something more than dirty oil
because I am running
AMZOIL
with less then 1000 miles on it. I did
note however when I switched to
AMZOIL the noise from the lifters did go down
somewhat.
Thanks everyone
Robert
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#946
***************************************