Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, September 5 2002 Volume
01 : Number
944
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 04 Sep 2002 10:27:51 -0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Replacing decorative fog lights
I took out the useless,
decorative glass things that came with my 94
VR4. They call them fog lights,
but all they are good for is lighting up
the road for 3 ft in front of
the car.
I've been looking for something to install that would actually
be
functional, but it's tough to find anything that fits in there.
Hella sells a projection-type high beam module that looks like the
same
headlight that comes with our cars. It's 3.5 in. high at the lens,
4.5
in. high at the bracket (page 37 of the Hella catalog, #68136
headlamp
DE module 90mm)). I found something similar on the Hella web
page
(
www.hella.com) at:
http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_en/ProductsServices/ForDriversAccessories/XenonHeadlamps/DEXenon/universal.jsp
(This
is the hardest web page to find anything I've seen in quite
a
while)
It looks like these might fit in the same place as the
decorative fog
lights. If so, that would provide 4 high beams, enuf to light
up the
road.
Has anyone tried anything like this?
What do the
Yurpeans on the list do for aux lights? In Yurp, they are
fanatics about
their lights, so I suspect they either replace the
decorative lights or
their cars came with something that actually
works.
(Please don't
tell me our aux lights are just fine. If you think so,
then you have never
seen a pair of rally-type driving lights at work.
Our lights are
decorative, not functional.)
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 10:44:31
-0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Head Studs now available
Hey everyone, just wanted to let you
know that headstuds are now
available for all DOHC cars. They're 180,000psi
tested studs with 12
point nuts. The first set is on my Spyder and they
fit absolutely
perfectly. I figured it'd be good insurance on a higher
horsepower
build-up.
$190 from CTC Motorsports.
214-575-7474
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet
Silverado HD Duramax
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 08:43:43
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Replacing decorative fog lights
Check with Stern lighting, he really
seems to know his stuff.
http://lighting.mbz.org/
Jim Berry ==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:27 AM
Subject: Team3S: Replacing decorative
fog lights
> I took out the useless, decorative glass things that came
with my 94
> VR4. They call them fog lights, but all they are good for is
lighting
up
> the road for 3 ft in front of the car.
>
>
I've been looking for something to install that would actually be
>
functional, but it's tough to find anything that fits in there.
>
>
Hella sells a projection-type high beam module that looks like the
> same
headlight that comes with our cars. It's 3.5 in. high at
> the lens, 4.5
in. high at the bracket (page 37 of the Hella catalog,
#68136
>
headlamp DE module 90mm)). I found something similar on the Hella
web
page (
www.hella.com) at:
>
http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_en/ProductsServices/ForDriversAccessories/XenonHeadlamps/DEXenon/universal.jsp
>
>
(This is the hardest web page to find anything I've seen in quite a
>
while)
>
> It looks like these might fit in the same place as the
decorative fog
> lights. If so, that would provide 4 high beams, enuf to
light up the
road.
>
> Has anyone tried anything like
this?
>
> What do the Yurpeans on the list do for aux lights? In
Yurp, they are
> fanatics about their lights, so I suspect they either
replace the
decorative lights or their cars came with something that actually
works.
>
> (Please don't tell me our aux lights are just fine. If
you think so,
> then you have never seen a pair of rally-type driving
lights at work.
Our lights are decorative, not functional.)
>
>
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:23:21
-0700
From: "Robert Carson" <
rcarson1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts Swapping between Turbo Cars
I have been a member of team3s
for quite some time now and this will be
my first post. Last year I
bought a 1993 3000GT VR4 that was all stock
except for its new 13G
turbo's. Since that time I have bought new
tires, a new transmission,
transfer case, drive shafts, done the 60k
service. The only other
changes that I have made to this car so far
have been a Stillen down
pipe and a K&N ram air filter. My question to
the group is because
of a annoying lifter tick and pretty weak
performance I want to switch
the internals of my engine to what I
currently have in a 300zx that my uncle
gave me. While my uncle had the
car it was pulling of the quarter mile
in the 9 sec range, which is
something that so far I can, only dream of in
what my girl friend refers
to as my sexy 3000GT. I want to take
the crank, pistons, connecting
rods, turbo's, intercoolers, boost controller,
fuel system, Jetchip off
of the car. Does anyone know if these
parts can be switched both
engines are 3.0L twin turbo's. Because I am
going to the University of
Nebraska Lincoln right now I cannot really
afford to spend the money to
build up this engine any other way. PS. I
get the digest version so I
will be reading any responses tomorrow night.
Thanks
Robert
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:49:37
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Parts Swapping between Turbo Cars
Sell the 300Z and use the
cash to buy a new engine for the 3000GT and
NOS. You should look at the
performance of other <very> modified VR4's
if you want to have
realistic expectations of what you can get. Or
just sell the one you
have and buy the supermodified '92VR4 on ebay.
Don't get me wrong, these
are great cars, and some drag racers have
gotten astounding performance, but
they're inherently heavy. If you are
looking for pure muscle, I
think you are barking up the wrong tree.
Our cars create muscle by magic, but
their real asset is "finesse".
Chuck Willis
<no slamming, just
technical content>
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Carson
[mailto:rcarson1@bigred.unl.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 1:23
PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Parts Swapping between Turbo Cars
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 13:01:14
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Spun bearing info req.
Hello all -
I'm getting kinda nervous about
this spun bearing club membership, I
have enough to do already with out
joining any more clubs. Does anyone
have any general information
on what a spun bearing is all about? We
talking crank bearings
here? Known causes / symptoms?
Informational
websites?
Thanks 1,000,000hp.
Ken
-
--
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester
(NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky
Injection
Improved Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight
17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug
plate, license plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
98/99 COOLANT TANK
(6/26/02)
Best (pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned
alky)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 17:13:24
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Parts Swapping between Turbo Cars
> I want to switch the
internals of my engine to what I currently have
> in a 300zx that my
uncle gave me.
> I want to take the crank, pistons, connecting
rods,
> turbo's, intercoolers, boost controller, fuel
> system,
Jetchip off of the car. Does anyone know
> if these parts can be
switched both engines are 3.0L
> twin turbo's. Because I am going to
the University of Nebraska
> Lincoln right now I cannot really afford to
spend the money to build
> up this engine any other way.
Chances
of any of that interchanging are extremely low.
You might be able to
fabricate some piping and brackets
to get the intercoolers to fit on the
3000GT - but most
of the other stuff won't work. The Mitsu 6G72 block
is
different in several ways from the 300ZX Nissan block.
For sure
your parts won't just slide right in, and it
isn't worth it to rework
everything to fit. The "JET
chip" for sure won't work in a 3000GT
ECU.
Start from scratch with the 3000GT if you want to mod
it.
Go the route that's been gone before.
Its tough to find interchangeable
parts between different
motors of the same manufacturer, almost impossible
to
find them between two different (competing)
manufacturers.
Unfortunately this stuff isn't like
swapping PCI cards between two
computers.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 10:31:59
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Apparently, I'm inept at searching...
All -
Not too
terribly long ago, there was a post from someone who'd been
having problems
with dropping fuel pressure at upper RPMs. They posted
that they'd
found the solution - I think the subject of the post was
"Fuel pressure
problems finally solved!" or "Running lean problem
finally solved!" or
something along those lines. The solution ended up
being a
misseated o ring in the fuel pump I think, but I wanted to read
the details
of the post.
In any case, I couldn't find the solution or the problem
posts in the
archives, so I'm hoping that someone could point me in the
right
direction. Uugh. I can't believe I'm asking for help with a
simple
search! :)
Hanging my head in shame,
- -
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 10:41:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Parts Swapping between Turbo Cars
Take the wing, side scoops,
hood blisters, and pop-up headlights off the
the 3000gt and paste them on the
300zx.
but seriously, it just isn't going to happen. For
example
the bore and stroke are different.
300zx = 87.0 x 83.0 mm
3000gt
=91.1mm x 76.0mm
Glenn
- --- Robert Carson <
rcarson1@bigred.unl.edu>
wrote:
> I want to switch the
> internals of my engine to what I
currently have in a
> 300zx that my uncle
> gave
me.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:16:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Apparently, I'm inept at searching...
It appears that the
archives haven't been updated in a while. Admins?
Glenn
- ---
"Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
wrote:
> All -
>
> In any case, I couldn't find the solution
or the
> problem posts in the
> archives,
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 14:39:40
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Apparently, I'm inept at searching...
That was me who had
that fuel pressure problem. If you did not replace
your pump recently then it
is unlikely that you have a misseated O-ring.
Otherwise, it is really
easy to twist and roll it during installation
if you are not using some sort
of lubricant (K-Y jelly, hehe).
I am not too good at searching the
archives either. I save everything
instead. I will forward the emails to you
privately. Maybe someone
(Forrest?) would give us some tips on how to find
things in the
archives.
Philip
- --------
Not too
terribly long ago, there was a post from someone who'd been
having problems
with dropping fuel pressure at upper RPMs. They posted
that they'd
found the solution - I think the subject of the post was
"Fuel pressure
problems finally solved!" or "Running lean problem
finally solved!" or
something along those lines. The solution ended up
being a
misseated o ring in the fuel pump I think, but I wanted to read
the details
of the post.
In any case, I couldn't find the solution or the problem
posts in the
archives, so I'm hoping that someone could point me in the
right
direction. Uugh. I can't believe I'm asking for help with a
simple
search! :)
Hanging my head in shame,
- -
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:56:15
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apparently, I'm inept at searching...
Got the emails -
thanks! However it didn't have quite the information I
was looking
for. I seem to remember reading in the post that the fuel
system
should hold pressure for a number of hours after shutting off
the
car. Mine holds pressure for an hour or so.
> That was me
who had that fuel pressure problem. If you did not replace
> your pump
recently then it is unlikely that you have a misseated
> O-ring.
A
Supra pump was installed before I purchased the car. While trying
to
diagnose some phantom lean problems a couple of months ago, I hooked
up
a fuel pressure gauge in the engine bay. I rigged up a way to
read the
gauge from in the cabin while driving and had a friend read
off
pressures as I made full throttle runs. I found that in the
upper RPMs
the fuel pressure was falling off. I expected this since the
boost
falls off with the stock 9b turbos, but the pressure was
falling
significantly more than the boost. Strangely the dropping
pressure
didn't seem to cause any harm - the whole time my O2 readings
were
quite rich, and stable. I have 450 injectors, and my S-AFC at
high
throttle is set to -20% from 4-8k RPMs.
Hmm...maybe I'll
pull the fuel pump and check, just to be safe.
- - Brian
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:56:34
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apparently, I'm inept at searching...
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "glenn vrfour" <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
> It
appears that the archives haven't been updated in a
> while.
Admins?
- --------------------------->
Mea Culpa, Mea
Culpa...
Yup - my fault. I usually edit out the unnecessary
quoting, footers
from
"free"(?) email addresses, etc., before the Digests
go into the
Archives. But it's been a pretty busy time for me. I
just put them all
up on the website, but many were unedited,
unfortunately.
The Archive Page is now current right through
yesterday..., with
apologies...
Forrest
for the
Admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 15:19:08
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Apparently, I'm inept at searching...
>Got the emails -
thanks! However it didn't have quite the information
>I was looking
for. I seem to remember reading in the post that the
fuel
>system should hold pressure for a number of hours after shutting off
>the car. Mine holds pressure for an hour or so.
I think one
hour is good enough. One morning I thought that there was
some pressure still
there. But then I left it sitting on an open parking
lot on a hot
summer day and saw fuel pressure actually building up for
several minutes. I
do not think it was the fuel boiling though
(although, who knows?), or
my electromechanical sending unit was
sensitive to temperature. What I
know for sure, is that your fuel
pressure should stay high for at least half
an hour after you shut down
the engine. Also, it should jump back up in
split second after you start
cranking your car. Otherwise, you will be
cranking your car for too
long and it won't start until the right
pressure builds up.
>A Supra pump was installed before I purchased the
car. While trying to
>diagnose some phantom lean problems a
couple of months ago, I hooked up
>a fuel pressure gauge in the engine
bay. I rigged up a way to read the
gauge
>from in the cabin while
driving and had a friend read off pressures as
>I made full throttle
runs. I found that in the upper RPMs the fuel
pressure
>was
falling off. I expected this since the boost falls off with
the
stock
>9b turbos, but the pressure was falling significantly more
than the
>boost.
That is why I made a differential fuel pressure
gauge by feeding boost
pressure inside the sending unit behind the sensing
diaphragm. That
gauge shows 42-44 psi regardless of the boost
pressure.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 12:27:59
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Admin: Tips on Searching (& request for assistance)
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
>
-----------snip---------->
> I am not too good at searching the
archives either. I save everything
instead. I will forward the emails to you
privately. Maybe someone
(Forrest?) would give us some tips on how to find
things in the
archives.
> Philip
-
----------------------------->
It's a good point, and it brings up an
important issue.
If you have the room on your hard drive, you can
download the monthly
zip files of each month from the Archives - then you
will have *all* the
archives searchable, using your computer's "Find"
or "Search" feature.
This is usually found off the "Start"
button...
There are instructions on the Search Page about how to get the
most from
our search engine (ANY search engine, actually...). BUT, the
Team3S
website has grown enough through the years that we now have a
problem
with the sheer size of our site--
The free search engine that
we are using has a 1500-page limit for their
free service, and we now have
MORE than 1500 pages on the Team3S
website. Unless someone knows
of another *good* search engine that
does not have a 1500-page limit, we're
out of luck for having any
subsequent additions to our site being
searchable. PICOsearch is a
terrific search engine, but unless we want
cookies on our website that
track our emails (like all the other sites do)
and make us part of a
"Rich Boys With Expensive Toys" demographic, we
have to come up with
$40/month for the PICO engine. I feel that $40 is
a ridiculous amount
of money, since they already get their icon on our
search page! Our
site gets ~400,000 hits a month, and PICO gets a good
number of people
checking them out from our page. We must find
another search engine,
since we want our site to remain free to everyone, and
cookie-free, as
well.
If anyone knows of a good free search engine
that does not have limits,
please contact me privately. Naturally,
other suggestions will be
welcomed as well.
TIA,
Forrest
for
the Admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 16:25:22
-0400
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
Hey
experts...
There is a group buy going on on Bradi Rotors for a set of 4
$235... Is
that a good price compared to their performance?
http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98418I
do not think they are cryo treated, but how will that effect
their
performance? I am thinking about getting them dimple drilled
and
slotted. Will these rotor warp? or are they less likely to warp
since
they are drilled and slotted?
Here is a quote from
www.Raceconcepts.com
<"Custom drilled/slotted rotors is our business. Our
dimple
drilled/slotted rotors are the best on the market. They are
stronger,
truly balanced and will not crack. All rotors come
standard with ZINC
coating for rust prevention."
Any input or
suggestions will be appreciated.
I am deciding between a Strut Bar or the
rotors.
Thank you,
Roman G.
1994 VR-4
My 1st autocrossing
event on September 15 in RoseCroft Raseway MD.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 16:36:38
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
Roman, Bradi rotors are good blanks
(not as good as Brembo but quality
all the same) get them slotted NO CROSS
DRILLING/DIMPLE DRILLING. If
possible get them cryo'd the will
last about 50% longer before warping,
and if you get sucked into roadracing
with Geoff and Bob kiss your money
goodby (you will become a
performance addict...)
Russ F
CT
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
[SMTP:Romachka21@netscape.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 4:25
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
>
> Hey
experts...
>
> There is a group buy going on on Bradi Rotors for a
set of 4 $235...
> Is that a good price compared to their
performance?
>
>
http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98418>
> I do not think they are cryo treated, but how will that effect their
> performance? I am thinking about getting them dimple drilled and
> slotted. Will these rotor warp? or are they less likely to warp since
> they are drilled and slotted?
>
> Here is a quote from
www.Raceconcepts.com> <"Custom
drilled/slotted rotors is our business. Our dimple
> drilled/slotted
rotors are the best on the market. They are stronger,
> truly
balanced and will not crack. All rotors come standard with ZINC
>
coating for rust prevention."
>
> Any input or suggestions will be
appreciated.
> I am deciding between a Strut Bar or the rotors.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Roman G.
> 1994 VR-4
> My 1st
autocrossing event on September 15 in RoseCroft Raseway MD.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 13:37:23
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apparently, I'm inept at searching...
> I think one hour
is good enough....
> What I know for sure, is that your fuel pressure
> should stay
> high for at least half an hour after you shut down
the
> engine. Also, it
> should jump back up in split second after
you start cranking your car.
Both of these happen with my car, so I think
I'm probably okay.
> That is why I made a differential fuel pressure
gauge by feeding boost
> pressure inside the sending unit behind the
sensing diaphragm. That
> gauge shows 42-44 psi regardless of the boost
pressure.
Howdjya do that? Was there a fitting, or did you just
drill into the
sending unit?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 16:59:46
-0400
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
Why not
Drilled? I know some people run them drilled?
I also thought about them
breaking.
Well would it make more sense to drill them rather than get
them
slotted?
Roman G.
Saving my money and waiting to be sucked in
into road Racing with Geoff,
Bob and Flash! LOL
"Furman,
Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
wrote:
>Roman, Bradi rotors are good blanks (not as good as Brembo but
quality
all
>the same) get them slotted NO CROSS DRILLING/DIMPLE
DRILLING. If
possible
>get them cryo'd the will last about 50%
longer before warping, and if
you
>get sucked into roadracing with
Geoff and Bob kiss your money goodby
(you
>will become a performance
addict...)
>
>Russ F
>CT
>
>> -----Original
Message-----
>> From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
[SMTP:Romachka21@netscape.net]
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002
4:25 PM
>> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>
Subject: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
>>
>> Hey
experts...
>>
>> There is a group buy going on on Bradi
Rotors for a set of 4 $235...
>> Is that a good price compared to their
performance?
>>
>>
http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98418>>
>> I do not think they are cryo treated, but how will that effect
their
>> performance? I am thinking about getting them dimple drilled
and
slotted.
>> Will these rotor warp? or are they less likely to
warp since they are
>> drilled and slotted?
>>
>>
Here is a quote from
www.Raceconcepts.com >>
<"Custom drilled/slotted rotors is our business. Our dimple
>>
drilled/slotted rotors are the best on the market. They
are
stronger,
>> truly balanced and will not crack. All rotors
come standard with
ZINC
>> coating for rust prevention."
>>
>> Any input or suggestions will be appreciated.
>> I am
deciding between a Strut Bar or the rotors.
>>
>> Thank
you,
>>
>> Roman G.
>> 1994 VR-4
>> My 1st
autocrossing event on September 15 in RoseCroft Raseway MD.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 17:04:40
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Apparently, I'm inept at searching...
>> That is why I
made a differential fuel pressure gauge by feeding
boost
>> pressure
inside the sending unit behind the sensing
>> diaphragm. That
gauge
>> shows 42-44 psi regardless of the boost
pressure.
>
>Howdjya do that? Was there a fitting, or did you
just drill into the
>sending unit?
I filed a flat on the side of
the sending unit and then poked it through
-
the metal was very thin by
then. Then I clamped a brass nipple to it
with
a hose clamp. Check
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Diff_pressure_gauge1.jpgI
will be taking better pictures now that I got myself a real digital
camera.
;-)
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 16:09:11
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
>I do not think they are cryo
treated, but how will that effect their
performance? I am thinking about
getting them dimple drilled and
slotted.
>Will these rotor warp? or are
they less likely to warp since they are
drilled and slotted?
Where is
that photo of Oskar's drilled and slotted Stillen rotor?
You know, the one
that broke in half.
I've lost track of it completely.
I used to direct
people asking questions like this to that photo, but
the site that had it has
purged all its photos.
>Here is a quote from
www.Raceconcepts.com
><"Custom drilled/slotted rotors is our business. Our
dimple
drilled/slotted rotors are the best on the market. They are
stronger,
truly balanced and will not crack.
Gee, where have we
heard promises like that before? On the Stillen web
site? Oskar broke one of
those. Maybe on PowerSlot's web site? I broke
two of those.
I hope
these rotors work out for you. Please let us know. At $80 each,
that is a
whole lot cheaper than stock rotors.
IMHO, I think these rotors will
probably work OK on the street or at an
autocross. I wouldn't put them on an
open track car, though, and I FOR
SURE would not buy them drilled or
slotted -- Not without an OK from an
open track racer who has actually gone
through a set without problems.
They might be just fine for light cars,
but I don't want to trust my
4,000 lb car to them without a testimonial from
another racer. At $80
each, they are 1/3 less money than stock, so
maybe they are 1/3 less
strong, too.
Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 17:21:49
-0400
From: Danno <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: oil filter
Riyan,
Well you called this one right on
the money! Got a call from the dealer
and he
wanted $440 to replace
both lines. All he did was run it up on the
hoist and
eyeball the
damned thing. Shit! I took it in to him with the
diagnosis
for
cryin' out loud! He didn't clean anything off (oil
everywhere) no dye
test, no
attempt at tightening, or evening checking to
see if it was loose!
Nothing
beyond the quick eyeball and the request for
4 bills to fix it.
As it turned out, I called my other mechanic and
arranged for a second
opinion.
Mits charged me $30 bucks for their
"inspection". If my guy fixes the
problem
as you describe below,
I'll take his bill back to the dealer and get my
$30
back!!!
Thanks
for your help!
- - Dan
'95 VR4
Riyan Mynuddin
wrote:
> An eye bolt is a bolt with a hole in the middle that allows
for a
fluid (in
> this case, oil) to flow through the middle. I paid
for 30 minutes of
shop
> labor to get the bolt tightened. If the
problem is the oil cooler eye
bolt,
> the dealer would most likely
insist on replacing the whole oil cooler
and
> both the feed and return
lines. Ask them where the leak is and don't
be
>
fooled.
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 19:47:08
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
Roman -- Save the dough and hit Summit
Point or VIR with me some time
for road racing.
Honestly though -
PLEASE read the following bits of advice before you or
anyone else buys stuff
for AutoX.
1. Question: How much braking do you think you really do in an
AutoX
(even a high-speed Corvette one like Merritt has coming up)?
Answer:
Not enough to warrant drilled or slotted or cryo-treated or any combo
of
that on your rotors. You use them for 4 runs max over 45 seconds and
5
hard brake zone of 20 feet long. Not enough to even make stock pads
and
stock calipers worry. Don't waste the money on upgraded rotors
for
AutoX use (my opinion).
2. Question: How much increased
performance will you see with a strut
bar in AutoX? Answer:
Considerable amount. The problem is that our
cars understeer normally
and most strut bars are for the front and you
didn't specify which you were
getting. Adding more front strut stuff
means it will understeer more so
you want to add a strut bar but add it
to the REAR of the car (and other
AutoX tips help too).
3. I have pictures of a friend's Bradi
cross-drilled rotors cracking
through the holes like all cross-drilled rotors
do. Cross-drilling is
only for looks and then secondly for racing in
the rain when the water
needs cleared off the rotor for the pads to
work. You will not be
AutoX'ing in the rain enough to warrant
cross-drilled rotors. Slotted?
Maybe. Who knows if they make them
crack and they might clean off crud
for the pads to work. They might
also eat the pads more aggressively.
Important line though is rear strut bar
before front in AutoX (and some
of the same for Road Racing).
4. Don't
believe anyone who tells you their rotors will not warp. We
have some
of the best people on here buying the best rotors available
(Porterfield,
Brembo, etc.) and have them cryo-treated and some have
them not and STILL
warp them on our cars. So get that in writing with a
money-back
guarantee and I bet they will not honor their claim. Our
cars WILL warp
rotors as I have done it to cryo-treated ones after a day
of racing (with
correctly bedded-in pads and rotors and using the
highest temp brake fluid
available).
5. Most importantly, remember that these rotors are on your
car before
and after AutoX events. If you trust your life and the life
of your
passengers to a cheap group buy of $235 then that is up to you.
I do
not like paying close to $150 per rotor on my car but they have
been
tested by me (and many others on the list) to hold up to
racing
applications so their street applications are like a walk in the
park
and I know they will never crack on me or fail catastrophically so I
am
willing to pay more for that assurance. I would feel horrible if
I
injured a friend in my car because I bought some cheap Pep Boys
rotors
or $40 brake pads from NAPA. My insurance will never cover the
loss of
dismemberment of a friend or loved one but I feel the rotors I
get
(Porterfield in stock size and non-cryo-treated) will never fail on
me
so that is my decision. Remember that your car only stops by
eight
little brake pad contact points and four tiny tire patches. You
never
want to be at fault in an accident.
- --Flash!
Ready to suck
in another victim to road racing
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
[SMTP:Romachka21@netscape.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 4:25
PM
>
> I do not think they are cryo treated, but how will that
effect their
> performance? I am thinking about getting them dimple
drilled and
> slotted. Will these rotor warp? or are they less likely to
warp since
> they are drilled and slotted?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 19:55:35
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
FWIW - these are my friend's Bradi
cross-drilled rotors after one day of
open track (car is a first gen
VR-4). These were with stock first gen
calipers and some Porterfield
R-4 pads I believe. Notice how the
surface of the rotor is fine (no
high/low spots, no large grooves like a
record has, and no heat-warping
little spots of blue where the vanes
are).
Overall shot
of the car so you know what it is:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/whubbell/WBH_VR-4_rotor_01.jpg
Closer shot of the driver's side rotor:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/whubbell/WBH_VR-4_rotor_02.jpg
Closer still now showing the crack through one of the holes and the
edge of the rotor:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/whubbell/WBH_VR-4_rotor_03.jpg
Close-up view of the cracked edge of the rotor:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/whubbell/WBH_VR-4_rotor_04.jpgI
don't know where that website is, Rich, but Mohler was supposed to
make a
"stuff that breaks" site and have lots of brake rotor pictures.
But this is a
VR-4, it is a cross-drilled Bradi rotor, and it was an
open track day.
I would not trust my life to them and certainly they
should not crack after
one day. My Porterfield rotors take nearly an
entire season (5-8 high
performance driving events) before they are worn
down to throw-away specs or
are too thin to trust at speed and might
crack. I've never cracked any
of these Porterfields but have warped a
few of them. I will take
warping over cracking any day of the week and
twice on Sunday
though.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comwww.team3s.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netSent:
Wednesday, September 04, 2002 17:09
Where is that photo of Oskar's
drilled and slotted Stillen rotor?
You know, the one that broke in
half.
I've lost track of it completely.
I used to direct people asking
questions like this to that photo, but
the site that had it has purged all
its photos.
IMHO, I think these rotors will probably work OK on the
street or at an
autocross. I wouldn't put them on an open track car, though,
and I FOR
SURE would not buy them drilled or slotted -- Not without an OK
from an
open track racer who has actually gone through a set without
problems.
They might be just fine for light cars, but I don't want to trust
my
4,000 lb car to them without a testimonial from another racer. At
$80
each, they are 1/3 less money than stock, so maybe they are 1/3
less
strong, too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 17:20:34
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Bradi Rotors reliability?
Here's your chance --- where do you live ???
We've got an open track
event at
Sears Point [ 1 hour north of San
Francisco ] coming up oct 12/13 lookie
loos
welcome if you don't want to
drive.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <
Romachka21@netscape.net>
To:
""Furman, Russell"" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 04, 2002 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors
reliability?
> Why not Drilled? I know some people run them
drilled?
>
> I also thought about them breaking.
> Well would
it make more sense to drill them rather than get
them
slotted?
>
> Roman G.
> Saving my money and waiting to
be sucked in into road Racing with
Geoff, Bob and Flash!
LOL
>
> "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
wrote:
>
> >Roman, Bradi rotors are good blanks (not as good as
Brembo but
quality all
> >the same) get them slotted NO CROSS
DRILLING/DIMPLE DRILLING. If
possible
> >get them cryo'd the will
last about 50% longer before warping, and if
you
> >get sucked into
roadracing with Geoff and Bob kiss your money goodby
(you
> >will
become a performance addict...)
> >
> >Russ F
>
>CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 20:43:41
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
Drilled for the street id fine, on
the track just about every avid Road
Racer
I talk to will not run them b/c
they crack more easily compared a
slotted
rotor or even a standard surface
rotor. Based on this common result
from so
many people racing (z06,
RX7,MKIV and other models of high performance
cars)
I wont waste my
time/money with cross drilled
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
[mailto:Romachka21@netscape.net]
Sent: Wed 9/4/2002 4:59 PM
To: Furman,
Russell;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Cc:
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
Why not
Drilled? I know some people run them drilled?
I also thought about them
breaking.
Well would it make more sense to drill them rather than get
them
slotted?
Roman G.
Saving my money and waiting to be sucked
in into road Racing with Geoff,
Bob
and Flash! LOL
"Furman,
Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com> wrote:
>Roman, Bradi rotors are good blanks (not as good as Brembo but
quality
all
>the same) get them slotted NO CROSS DRILLING/DIMPLE
DRILLING. If
possible
>get them cryo'd the will last about 50%
longer before warping, and if
you
>get sucked into roadracing with
Geoff and Bob kiss your money goodby
(you
>will become a performance
addict...)
>
>Russ F
>CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 19:19:28
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
>I've never cracked any of these
Porterfields but have warped a
>few of them. I will take warping
over cracking any day of the week and
>twice on Sunday
though.
>
There is no way to warp a cryogenically treated rotor unless
you brake
incorrectly and heat them unmercifully, such as with left-foot
braking.
I am running a set of stock rotors right now that I had
cryogenically
treated locally, and they are working just fine. Don't need no
fancy
rotors with drilling, slotting or heat treating. Simple solutions
are
the best.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 18:08:32
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: race,
race, race --- have fun with your car
Any one interested in really having
fun with their car --- this is more
fun than pick'en up chicks [ well maybe
]. It's like a two
day, non-stop AutoX, endless back to back ¼ mile
runs. On top of that
it's in a prime vacation area --- California wine
country,
Coastal Redwoods, San Francisco what the hell else could ask of a
race
venue. Take your SO on a mini vacation and earn a trunk load
of
attaboys or attagirls as the case may be.
Run where the big boys race ---
NASCAR, American Le Mans, motorcycles
and on and on. The new, improved, Sears
Point --- fresh from a
$50 million dollar renovation.
NASA is running
an open track event Oct 12/13 and we're hoping to get
about 15 3S cars plus a
few non 3S --- Lamborghini Diablo, WRS
and even a few Vetts, everybody
welcome.
http://www.nasaproracing.com/norcal/index.htmlRegistration
isn't open for a couple of days but If you're interested
drop me an email [
fastmax@cox.net ]. We have some
contacts
within NASA and are arranging a roped off area for our group ---
even if
you only want to watch, ride along or just have a good time
let me
know.
Yes !!! you can ride along with group three or four drivers --- all
you
have to do is sign a piece of paper saying you've lost your
mind and
won't sue if your driver stuffs his car into a K barrier at a
buck
thirty.
Caution: Driving these cars at speed on a race track is
addictive, we
will not be held responsible if you get hooked on
racing.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 22:47:56
-0400
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
"
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
>>I've never cracked any of these Porterfields but have
warped a
>>few of them. I will take warping over cracking any day
of the week
and
>>twice on Sunday though.
>>
>There
is no way to warp a cryogenically treated rotor unless you brake
incorrectly
and heat them unmercifully, such as with left-foot braking.
I am
running a set of stock rotors right now that I had
cryogenically
treated locally, and they are working just fine. Don't need no
fancy
rotors with drilling, slotting or heat treating. Simple solutions
are
the best.
>
>Rich/slow old poop
>
Everybody
thank you so much for helping me in this simple decision.
I will get the
Rear strut bar, and I would like to get mine or the
rotors that I want to get
from the group buy slotted and cryogenically
treated.
Where and how
much would it cost me to get them cryogenically treated?
Once again thank
you all for the info.
If you know of a road even this season I would love
to participate.
Roman G.
94 VR-4 with DR650.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 23:19:36
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
I won't disagree with you Rich but
cryo-treated rotors get heat-cracked
or whatever the brake shop called
it. They turned down the warped
rotors and said the cracks he saw (not
cracks per se but more like tiny
hairline fissures or spider web-like
crevices all over the surface) were
there after turning so they were like
that clean through the entire
thickness of the rotor. They were turned
twice until smooth. I put
them on the car. Did one brake zone
from about 80-40 mph and the warped
sensation was back
instantly.
Maybe I had some bad cryo-treated rotors. I just will
not spend the $40
per rotor again when I can apply that toward the rotor but
my complaint
with my cryo-treated rotors shouldn't stop others from trying it
out.
Yes they may wear longer but if they warp that means you are stuck
with
warped rotors longer too.
Plus, I tried the cryo-treating because
people on the list assured it
prevented warping (I think it is in the
archives to search on) so I did
it since I was warping stock rotors.
Well it did not prevent the
warping but did make them last longer (although I
threw them away sooner
than stock since they were warped so bad). For
my application and
usable life I prefer the stock rotors but I do encourage
others to try
cryo-treating if that is your game and report back. We
need more data
for the list.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002
20:19
>I've never cracked any of these Porterfields but have warped a
few of
>them. I will take warping over cracking any day of the week
and twice
>on Sunday though.
There is no way to warp a
cryogenically treated rotor unless you brake
incorrectly and heat them
unmercifully, such as with left-foot braking.
I am running a set of stock
rotors right now that I had cryogenically
treated locally, and they are
working just fine. Don't need no fancy
rotors with drilling, slotting or heat
treating. Simple solutions are
the best.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 20:29:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
Can you give me some direction how to
get there? I
live in San Francisco. I want to see how you guys
drive if I
am free that day.
Anthony
- --- fastmax <
fastmax@cox.net> wrote:
> Here's your
chance --- where do you live ??? We've
> got an open track event
at
> Sears Point [ 1 hour north of San Francisco ] coming
> up oct
12/13 lookie loos
> welcome if you don't want to drive.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 23:29:38
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
AEM ECU WORKING! (Re: Just venting...)
I got the AEM ECU to work finally.
With AEM's help I discovered some
sync'ing errors (cam-crank
synchronization) and that reminded me that I
still have Apexi ITC installed.
I pulled it and viola! Two more
cylinders
started running. Apparently,
AEM detects some competitor's wares and
refuses to work with them.
;-)
To make the other two cylinders run I called AEM and they told me
to
check
the jumpers inside the box and one of them was mis-installed.
That made
the
last two cylinders run.
I finished that on the
school parking lot tonight. I started the car and
drove it home for 45
miles. I am keeping the SAFC until tomorrow when I
make a better fuel map.
It runs normal but a little rich and sputters
slightly at >12 psi boost,
so I will have to work on that. Not bad for
something that has not been
mapped to work with my 550 ccm injectors!
A side note: I think the ECU
needs different fuel map corrections for
the
left and the right banks
like the stock ECU. My rear (left) bank runs
leaner with the AEM ECU that
has no O2 feedback as of now. Two DIY-WB
wideband O2's are coming in
soon!
Philip
At 23:18 8/30/2002, Philip V. Glazatov
wrote:
>Well, another disappointment.
>
>I do not know how AEM
tested it and what they did to this unit, but the
>injectors work
exactly like they did
before
>http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Stock%20and%20AEM%20injectors%20
firing.gif
>
>but now I do not have any spark on my coil #3 that feeds
cylinders 3
and
>6. I can tell it easily by pulling the spark plug
wires. And that is
with
>the latest calibration
file.
>
>So, now my engine is running only on 2
cylinders.
>http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/AEM_ECU_engine_bad.gif
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 11:35:47
+0400
From: David Aldis <
hipwsm@emirates.net.ae>
Subject:
Team3S: Gearbox Part MR166809
I own a 1997 3000GT VR4 in Dubai (United
Arab Emirates). About 6 weeks
ago it lost all drive, and has been in the
workshop ever since awaiting
parts (first estimate $5000)
The local
Mitsubishi Agent ordered all the parts from Mitsubishi Japan,
but are waiting
for one gear (part number MR166809). They have been
told by Mitsubishi
not to expect delivery before 18 October.
I have pointed the dealer's
Parts Manager to a couple of the specialist
sites for the car, and he is
emailing around to try to find the part,
but is there anybody on the list who
can help locate it? We would be
looking for a courier delivery to
Dubai, with payment to be arranged to
suit the supplier.
Thanks in
advance for any help you can give.
David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 07:24:56
-0500
From: <
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Japanese Domestic Motors
I am contemplating installing a used
Japanese motor rather than
overhauling
the current one, the total cost is
considerably less. This brings up
the
following
questions.
1. Why are the Japanese domestic motors higher
HP?
2. Are the differences going to give me parts problems down the
line?
3. Are they really 30k mile motors & why?
TIA
Jim
W
92 3000GT SL
Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 14:41:38
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Japanese Domestic Motors
At 07:24 05.09.2002 -0500,
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com
wrote:
>I am contemplating installing a used Japanese motor rather
than
overhauling
>the current one, the total cost is considerably
less. This brings up
the
>following questions.
>1.
Why are the Japanese domestic motors higher HP?
They are not, just a
different way to measure power.
>2. Are the differences going to
give me parts problems down the line?
No
>3. Are they really
30k mile motors & why?
Depends where you got them from. You will
never really know ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 09:20:39
-0400
From: "
stealth@quixnet.net"
<
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What Type Clutch?
Do our clutches use a Diaphragm spring pressure
plate assembly or Coil
spring pressure plate assembly?
(BTW For those
of you who haven't discovered it,
www.stealth316.com and
www.howstuffworks.com are awesome
sources of info.)
Dennis
93 Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 08:21:02
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
Okay, okay, you drew me into this
once again. I don't believe ANYONE
has
objective numbers on the
relative failure rates of cross-drilled,
slotted,
or solid rotors. I
have been driving on cross-drilled rotors at road
courses for five years, and
I don't have any reason not to continue
using
them. I have seen all
three types of rotors break on other people's
cars.
During five years, my
braking style has changed. I think I use less
brakes
now than when I
started. When you talk about durability of brakes, I
think
you have to
consider whether the driver is "standing on the brakes" or
"stabbing the
brakes" or "left foot braking". There is conjecture that
cross-drilled
brakes cool better than solid rotors. I don't know that
to be
a
fact, but it seems reasonable. If heat rejection delays failure,
then
this might be good.
Chuck Willis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 08:29:45
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bradi Rotors reliability?
>Where and how much would it
cost me to get them cryogenically treated?
Look locally, wherever you
are. I had mine done at Cryogenic Engineering
in Cedar Rapids (
http://www.cryoeng.com/). They charge $20 per
rotor.
Ask local racers where they get their cryogenic work done.
>If you know of a road even this season I would love to
participate.
Go to
http://www.drivingevents.com/ and look
for an event in your area.
Rich/slow old poop>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 13:43:38
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Head Studs now available
>> Hey everyone, just wanted
to let you know that headstuds are now
>> available for all DOHC cars.
They're 180,000psi tested studs with
>> 12 point nuts.
This is
good news. But how do these head studs (who is the manufacturer
anyway?)
compare to the stock head studs? More or less tensile strength?
Unless we
know the rating for the stock studs, we don't know if we would
be
upgrading or downgrading.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@attbi.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Starnet"
<
stealth@starnet.net>; "Dragnet" <
stealth@dragnet.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 04, 2002 9:44 AM
Subject: Team3S: Head Studs now
available
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:12:10
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rotor reliability (was: Bradi Rotors reliability?)
I recently
installed a temperature probe to read brake pad temperatures.
As far as I
know, this is the first temperature gathering that anyone
has ever done in
this area of the car. I have been practicing with it
for a few days and
need to run some tests.
I have an Extech digital thermometer (up to 2000
F range) and a
fiberglass-braided K-tech thermocouple probe (also capable of
2000 F
readings). I will have pictures soon of the mounting location
but here
is a brief description. I have the Porsche Big Red brakes and
it is
similar to a stock setup where you slide the pads into the caliper
from
the front of the car to the back of the car. I routed the probe in
from
the back of the caliper so that when the pads were inserted they
would
push on the tip of the probe for about half an inch. This
assures
positive contact with the brake pad itself and close proximity to
the
caliper and rotor surface.
I can now gather "as close as humanly
possible" the temperatures from
the junction of the brake pad, rotor, and
caliper (without using an
infrared instrument which would be next to
impossible to mount here).
After a few short tests I was amazed at the
readings but I need to test
it more for a greater set of data.
Initial
tests (leaving the Watkins Glen racetrack and driving to the
nearby
town):
1. Ambient air temp = 80 F
2. One short
stop down a short hill = 90 F
3. Driving again after braking =
85 F/80 F
4. Braking again for a traffic light = 105
F
5. Sitting for 20 seconds at the light = 190 F
6. Moving just 20 feet after the light = 135 F/125 F/115 F
7.
Braking from 80 mph to 0 mph = 120 F
8. Sitting for a minute at
this light = 225 F
9. Driving slowly through town = Previous
temp minus 40 F to 80 F
10. Sitting for 3 minutes in traffic =
395 F
What I was most amazed with was the little movement required to
cool the
temps. Even moving at 10 mph for 20 feet cooled the temps
about 20 F
and a little farther it cooled 50 F (if hot) or maintained it at
ambient
+10 F or so. I realize the probe is not shielded from air so
the hot
temps are a little skeptical since air is always cooling it off but
when
stopped it does provide a much more accurate hot reading than
reaching
through the spokes and trying to get rotor and pad temps. I
have not
tried any high-speed stops yet to really heat up the pads (like
a
bedding-in procedure would produce).
Like I said, I need to run more
tests and put on a brake duct air scoop
but initially I don't think a brake
duct will cool the brakes too
terribly much while the car is moving.
While it is braking and slowing
though is when air might get directed into
there better. Then some
water spray will be next.
Please let me
know what tests I should run other than what I can think
up myself.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4, Porterfield solid rotors in stock size, Porterfield
R4-S
pads, Motul 600 fluid, Goodridge SS brake lines, no brake cooling
ducts,
stock 18" wheels
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:18:57
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Rotor reliability (was: Bradi Rotors reliability?)
Rich - You
were also talking about whether it was better to cool the
brakes with some
squirts of water before a big braking zone or just
after a big braking
zone. Well I think I can provide the answer finally
and it might be
counter-intuitive like many other ideas on this list.
>From what I
have seen, the temperature in the area of the
pad/rotor/caliper region cools
down quite well when moving again after
braking. So if you have a long
stretch after a brake zone then water is
not needed as much here. If
you have a brake zone then a short section
then another brake zone then
another brake zone then they will not have
time to cool between brake
application and cooling can be done here
maybe manually (instead of hooked up
to the brake light sensor or a
temperature sensor).
My answer is that
while running down a 3,000 foot straight the temps are
actually quite
cool. However, the temps immediately after the brake
zone (where you
turn-in) is going to be the highest since this is the
slowest section and
then once you start accelerating again the temps
start to drop (quite quickly
sometimes I might add).
So perhaps adding the water mist during braking
and then for another 3-5
seconds after braking is the best method (sort of a
cooperation effort
and neither before nor after but a little bit of
both).
What I really need is a thermometer with a signal out to a
computer for
data gathering. The best I can do is hook up the camera
mount and
record the temps and scribble them down later as I shout out the
speed
I'm doing. I just don't have a super-expensive probe so it takes
a few
seconds to get a reading sometimes and I have to take that
into
consideration.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Thursday, September 05, 2002 10:12
think a brake duct will cool the
brakes too terribly much while the car
is moving. While it is braking
and slowing though is when air might get
directed into there better.
Then some water spray will be next.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 09:43:30
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Temperature sensors
> I just don't have a super-expensive
probe so it takes a few
>seconds to get a reading sometimes and I have to
take that into
>consideration.
>
This is what concerns me the
most about the measurement. Your table
shows that the rotors get hot while
just sitting there in traffic, which
means the slow probe is finally
catching up to the correct temperature.
4. Braking again
for a traffic light = 105 F
5. Sitting for 20 seconds at the
light = 190 F
I suspect that the highest temperature reached was probably
200+
degrees, but it was only 190 when the sensor caught up.
If your
measurements are running 5-10 seconds behind, how are you going
to get any
meaningful real-time measurements on track?
You can devise tests such as
brake like crazy, come to a stop, and wait
for the sensor to stabilize on the
highest temperature. You can
certainly test the effectiveness of brake
ducts or water spray this
way, but you'll be dealing with the phenomenon of
the sensor coming up
to temperature whilst the brakes are cooling down
from a maximum
temperature. Still, although not exact, you can get enough
data to make
educated analyses.
Since you've gone to all this trouble,
it might be worthwhile to invest
a few more bucks in a probe with a faster
latency time. If your meter
will take an infrared input, you can mount
a fiber optic sensor on the
lower control arm, pointing at the rotor. Some
RTDs and thermistors are
extremely fast, but might not go up to 1500 F.
You can also mount a
spring-loaded thermocouple sensor that physically
touches the rotor and
maintains contact as it rotates.
Maybe somebody
on the list knows a lot more about sensors and latency
times than I do and
can steer you to a nice, fast, inexpensive temp
sensor. Any instrument
engineers out there?
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:44:11
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Possible fuel pump problem
I had a similar weird electrical
problem on my 92 Laser AWD. The fuel
pump
assembly is almost identical
between the two, especially the part that
failed. It's under the hatch
cover/spare tire, under a black square
plate.
Cracking the line open often
requires line wrenches, PBBlaster, and
swearing... and if that doesn't work,
line wrench, visegrips, a metal
tubes
for leverage, and more creative
linguistics.
The fuel pump housing/pickup tube has 3 bulkhead connectors
on it, 1
+12, 1
ground, and 1 for the gauge. Well, the top of the housing
was pretty
rusty... and as metal gets rusty, it expands. It cracked
the
plastic/rubber
bulkhead terminals enough that there was an
intermittent short RIGHT IN
MY
FUEL TANK!!!
It would work fine for
a few block, then for no reason, would turn off
while
driving, or after
sitting, it wouldn't start. I put a new pump in before
I
realized the
short was there, then I had to get a whole pickup tube
assembly
from
www.mitsubishigraveyard.com
(non-rusty). A couple of the studs on
the
tank busted as well, and I
repaired those too.
I drilled some tiny holes with some very good drill
bits, through what
remained of the stud (centered perfectly). I kept going
one size bigger
until the hole was just smaller than the size of the stud. I
then tapped
the
new holes for metric bolts. I put a neoprene washer (metal
backed), and
bolted them from the inside out, so they stuck out.
This
washer seals the bolt head and hole you created. Now I have all new
studs
sticking up, and used some nuts and another neoprene washer to be
safe
to
tighten it down. It doesn't need much to be tight, since there are
like
6
or 8 studs. I used all stainless fasteners (the neoprene washers
were
aluminum backed).
Worked really well, and I didn't need a new gas
tank. I repaired all
this
when it was around 2 degrees outside... brr...
I'm sure it would be even
easier now :)
Just make sure the tank is
empty (there is a drain plug on the tank),
and
that you have a strong
magnet to pick up metal shavings that drop in.
Use a
towel to catch what
you can, and please, don't smoke!
Vinny Singh - almost go kabloooey
http://www.manualcd.com/ - Service Manuals
on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/>
- -----Original Message-----
> From: Drew Mouton
[mailto:drew@irev2.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 3:44 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem
>
> Hey All,
> My
'92 NA 3000 just recently started having what looks like fuel
> problems,
and I'm trying to narrow down what's going on.
>
> Basically, after
doing 60k service (plus some additional) a couple
weeks
> ago, it ran
unbelievably well for a car with 130k miles. Then last Fri
I
> started
having start probs: it took two tries to start the car (since
I
> got
it, the car has always started right up on the first twist
of
the
> key).
>
> Few days after that (Monday of this
week), she died on pulling into a
> parking lot, and I just managed to get
it into a parking space by way
of
> three die-and-restarts. Then I
couldn't restart it - starter revved,
but
> it wouldn't turn over. Sat
there overnight, came back, managed to get
it
> started after a few
tries, took it over to my buddy's shop, where it
ran
> for two hours
without a problem. I left it with him to drive, and he
said
> it's only
died once on him.
>
> Ruled out a handful of possibilities
(electrical mostly), and problems
> seems to be pointing at the fuel
pump.
>
> First - and this is the stupid one - I've never touched
the fuel pump
on
> this car. Where is it?
>
> Second, can
it be bench tested like others? In/Out of the car?
>
> Anybody with
some other ideas what might be going on?
>
> Regards,
>
Drew
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#944
***************************************
