Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, September 4 2002 Volume 01 :
Number
943
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 3 Sep 2002 09:57:40 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 93 Stealth won't idle after timing belt change
My
understanding is that the ECU starts with default fuel maps after
being
disconnected from the battery and you have to drive it around for a
while
for it to re-educate itself.
Chuck Willis
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
wcampbellt@earthlink.net
[mailto:wcampbellt@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 6:23
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: 93 Stealth won't idle after timing belt change
Well today the
car started up fine and has run with no problems at all! just
like it did
before. I wonder if the ECU needed to sort itself out after the
battery was
diconnected for a couple days. I hope it stays this way. thanks
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 09:51:16
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem
Did you replace the fuel filter
during your 130K maintenance?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Drew
Mouton [mailto:drew@irev2.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 3:44 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem
Hey All,
My '92 NA 3000 just
recently started having what looks like fuel
problems, and I'm trying to
narrow down what's going on.
Basically, after doing 60k service (plus
some additional) a couple weeks
ago, it ran unbelieveably well for a car
with 130k miles. Then last Fri I
started having start probs: it took two
tries to start the car (since I
got it, the car has always started right up
on the first twist of the
key).
Few days after
that (Monday of this week), she died on pulling into a
parking lot, and I
just managed to get it into a parking space by way of
three
die-and-restarts. Then I couldn't restart it - starter reved, but
it
wouldn't turn over. Sat there overnight, came back, managed to get it
started after a few tries, took it over to my buddy's shop, where it ran
for two hours without a problem. I left it with him to drive, and he said
it's only died once on him.
Ruled out a handful of possibilities
(electrical mostly), and problems
seems to be pointing at the fuel
pump.
First - and this is the stupid one - I've never touched the fuel
pump on
this car. Where is it?
Second, can it be bench tested like
others? In/Out of the car?
Anybody with some oother ideas what might be
going on?
Regards,
Drew
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:52:58
-0400 (EDT)
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@coastalnet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Electric Window Problem
Sounds like you need to order
the window regulator. My driver side
broke a few months back. Everything was
exactly as you
described. Small plastic wheel at the top of the regulator
assymbly
snapped. $120 in parts. 40 Minutes to replace. Once you get the
new
one, you can see how it fits in there. Just try and have a helper
on
hand.
Joseph
93 VR4
On Mon, 2 Sep 2002,
Roger Ludwig wrote:
- ->I need a resource for my right sided electric
window
- ->on my 95 VR4.
- ->I have taken off the door panel and
plastic
- ->undersheet, (thanx Erik for "trial" removal a few
-
->months ago).
- ->It appears that one of the large plastic guides
is
- ->broken, but it is hard to see and I could sure use a
-
->diagram or some reference info.
- ->Problem: Window only goes partway
down without
- ->assistance. Makes clunking noises as it goes.
-
->Thanx
- ->Roger L
- ->F15DOC
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 13:55:52
-0400
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Alternator?
I was driving my car and all the sudden my radio
started to turn off and on about every 30 seconds. Then about 2 days later
my battery gauge and tach started to move up and down periodically. Then
all the sudden after that happening for about 2 hours my car died. I can
jump start my car and the battery gauge will continue to climb into the 12v
range as long as I leave the cars connected. As soon as I disconnect the
cars the gauge begins to drop and the car dies. Is this the
alternator? And if so how hard is it to replace (I have no clue how),
because I called a place that can rebuild it for 50-170
dollars.
Thanks
Chris
92 Dodge Stealth ES
Stock
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 10:37:02
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
oil filter
An eye bolt is a bolt with a hole in the middle that allows
for a fluid (in
this case, oil) to flow through the middle. I paid for 30
minutes of shop
labor to get the bolt tightened. If the problem is the oil
cooler eye bolt,
the dealer would most likely insist on replacing the whole
oil cooler and
both the feed and return lines. Ask them where the leak is and
don't be
fooled.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Danno [mailto:palermod@pilot.msu.edu]
Sent: Tuesday,
September 03, 2002 6:04 AM
To:
riyan@hotpop.comSubject: Re: Team3S: oil
filter
Got under the car this morning. Filter is dry, but that's
about the only
thing
that is! Seems to be coming from a line just
forward of the filter. Would
that
be the oil cooler?
What is an "eye bolt"?
Anyway, I think I'll be taking it to the
dealer. Any idea what this could
cost?
Thanks for your
help!
- - Dan
Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> Yes, the oil
filter is on the driver's side, quite easy to access. If
> retorquing the
filter doesn't help, realize that it could also be your oil
> cooler,
which is mounted in the front of the driver side wheel well. I
> believe
it's the main eye bolt gasket on the cooler that generally breaks
> down.
It's a very tight spot to work on. Although I'm tool-equipped and
>
mechanically inclined, I had to take the car to my mechanic and from
what
he
> said I believe that all he did was tighten it. I've seen no
leak ever
since.
> Good luck.
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth
rt tt
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 14:13:13
EDT
From: <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
This is exactly what happened on my '93 prelude. It happened in the
middle
of winter, around midnight on i96 in the middle of nowhere (in
michigan). By
the time AAA got there, of my 4 hazard lights, only one was
flashing.
It is, most likely, the alternator. I know that unbolting it
isn't hard -
you need to take off the driver wheel well cover, loosen the
tensioner
pulley for the alt. belt, take off the belt and unbolt the
alternator (there
are like 4 bolts). The problem is taking it out of there.
If I remember
correctly from my 60k, it's pretty tight in
there...
Also - check to see if the belt is intact - it could simply have
snapped
with the same effect.
Alex.
'95 VR4
> I was
driving my car and all the sudden my radio started to turn off and
on
> about every 30 seconds. Then about 2 days later my battery gauge
and tach
> started to move up and down periodically. Then all the
sudden after that
> happening for about 2 hours my car died. I can
jump start my car and the
> battery gauge will continue to climb into the
12v range as long as I leave
the
> cars connected. As soon as I
disconnect the cars the gauge begins to drop
and
> the car
dies. Is this the alternator? And if so how hard is it to
replace (I
> have no clue how), because I called a place that can
rebuild it for 50-170
> dollars.
>
> Thanks
>
Chris
> 92 Dodge Stealth ES
> Stock
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 10:46:25
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Please not a head gasket
Adam-
This is scattered, but will give
you a starting point.
You're going to want to do a compression test. If
two adjacent cylinders
have significantly lower compression than the others,
then it's most likely
the head gasket. Bubbles in the radiator coolant would
indicate head gasket
as well. Also, check for leaks in your intake to find
why your boost won't
hold. And what kind of oil are you using? Try some Mobil
1 synthethic 15/50
in there. Old oil or the wrong oil can make the lifters
stick. Clicking can
also be caused by lash adjusters. If it's more of a
grinding or knocking
sound then it could be shot rod bearings or low oil
pressure (is your oil
pressure light coming on?) If you want to check a
lot of these out
yourself, then you may want to look into buying the set of
shop manuals for
your car. They've proven invaluable to me.
Good
luck,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 13:17:40
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: the old girl still has it in her ...
I got another opportunity to
drive and instruct at Texas World Speedway over
Labor Day weekend with TWS
Motorsports Club. There were only about 60 cars
at the event split into
three run groups for beaucoup track time. I had one
student, a 19 year
old female with a red Mustang GT, four speeding tickets,
and at least one
accident. Unfortunately, because of a late return to town,
I was unable
to get my '94VR4 up to the track. I spent most off my time
instructing,
but rode with three other instructors. On Sunday, I unloaded
the '93
VR4, that I retired from the track two years ago, so I could take my
student
out for a ride. I had transplanted all my major mods to the '94 VR4
so,
except for the manual boost controller and K&N filtercharger and
Panther
Plus brake pads, I was back to stock. The ECS is also
non-functional
because I haven't replaced the antiroll sensor. It took me a
full session to
accomodate to the much softer suspension and street tires
(Yoko decibel,
40psi front, 38 psi back). The car was tail happy, so I
dropped two psi
from the rear tires, which seemed to fix it. Although
the track was
bone-dry, I had to pretend that I was driving in the rain,
slowing down my
hand and foot movements.
After my re-learning session,
I took the student on the track and gradually
built up to decent
speeds. Top speed was about 125 at the turnin to turn 1.
It felt good
that the old car could run that well without all my
usual
cheats!
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 18:24:52
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: oil filter
> An eye bolt is a bolt with a hole in the middle
that
> allows for a fluid (in this case, oil) to flow through
> the
middle. I paid for 30 minutes of shop labor to get
> the bolt tightened.
If the problem is the oil cooler
> eye bolt, the dealer would most likely
insist on
> replacing the whole oil cooler and both the feed and
>
return lines. Ask them where the leak is and don't be
> fooled.
The
fitting is called a "banjo fitting". The best way
to fix it if it is
leaking at the oil cooler lines by
the oil filter is to drain the oil (same
as you'd do for
an oil change) and then remove the offending bolt.
Replace the two copper crush washers that are between
the oil feed on
the pump, the banjo fitting, and the
bolt. Should be fairly obvious
where they go - you just
sandwich the line between two crush washers.
Then
torque the bolt to the proper torque from the service
manual (I
don't recall off the top of my head) and you
should be fine. Clean the
area up, finish your oil
change (ie: PUT OIL BACK IN!), run the car for a
little
bit and then check for leaks.
For reference, this is an "eye
bolt":
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/fastenmsc/eyebolmacsho.html...this
is a "banjo fitting & banjo bolt":
http://www.mitsubishi-
fto.org/workshop/brake_lines/i/brakelines-005.jpg
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 20:11:02
+0000
From: "Andrei Kryjevski" <
abk_4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
rear brake pads
Hello:
Could anybody recommend a good brake pad
brand (looking to replace the rear,
must fit stock caliper for 92 R/T) that
don't squeal.
Thank you.
Andrei.
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 13:45:38
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rear brake pads
I have been using Porterfield R4-S pads (R4 pads
are race pads and R4-S are
street pads with limited open tracking use). One
source (the one I have
used) is SpeedToys.Com
At 01:11 PM 9/3/02 ,
you wrote:
>Hello:
>Could anybody recommend a good brake pad brand
(looking to replace the
>rear, must fit stock caliper for 92 R/T) that
don't squeal.
>Thank you.
>Andrei.
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 15:44:17
-0500
From: Drew Mouton <
drew@irev2.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 93
Stealth won't idle after timing belt change
I've recently had an almost
_identical_ experience: shortly after doing
60k service on my '92 3000GT
(with 130k miles), I started having start up
and idle problems...though some
days it was fine, and generally I could
keep it going if the AC was on.
It has gotten progressively worse...this morning I had to have the car
flat-bedded to my buddy's shop, after a complete no-start. Starter runs,
but it sounds fuel-starved.
To Charles: yes, I changed the fuel
filter.
This weekend I ruled out most of the electronics, and it's
looking more
and more like a fuel pump issues, but we're going to try to
flow test the
pump today and verify it.
Anyone with other
suggestions?
Drew
It appears that on 9/2/2002 7:38 AM,
wcampbellt@earthlink.net at
wcampbellt@earthlink.net
said:
>
>
>I just finished changing the timing belt and
water pump on my 93 Stealth DOHC
>with 135k miles. I used the 60k service
instructions from Team3s and they
>were
>right on!
>
>The car started fine after the job (I had the battery unhooked
while working
>on it) but once it warmed up it would not idle. It will
idle with the a/c on
>however. The car drives great except for this - I
have to keep my foot on the
>peddle to keep it from killing at stops, what
do I check? it ran fine
>before I
>changed the belt, could I have
done something to cause this? any help
>would be
>really
appreciated. thanks
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 15:50:05
-0500
From: Drew Mouton <
drew@irev2.com>
Subject: Which fuel
pumps; RE: Team3S: Possible fuel pump problem
Hey All,
In my new
but on-going fuel-line problems, I haven't been able to rule
out the pump,
but am trying to do that now.
Whether I choose now to upgrade or not, I'm
still probably not going to
buy regular OEM stock from Satan, and may look
for a pull from a salvage
yard until I'm sure that's my problem.
So -
can anyone tell me which year Dodge/Mitsu models had fuel pumps that
will be
happy in my '92 normally aspirated 3000GT? What about Supra
pumps?
Regards,
Drew
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 15:53:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 93 Stealth won't idle after timing belt change
Common things
are common. If the fuel pump was working properly before the
60K
maintenance, it is reasonable to expect it to be working properly after
the
maintenance. Nothing you are doing at the front of the car affects the
fuel
pump. You might have a vacuum leak either on parts of the
intake
plumbing that you disconnected and reconnected during the maintenance,
or
just an old vacuum hose that may have given way. Have you either
inspected
all the intake and turbo hoses and tubes, or better still,
pressurized the
intake system to look for leaks? Our cars don't idle
well with small leaks
in the intake, and sometimes wont start at all, say
with a disconnected
y-pipe.
Did you have any symptoms that prompted
the 130K mile maintenance event?
Chuck Willis
I've recently had an
almost _identical_ experience: shortly after doing
60k service on my '92
3000GT (with 130k miles), I started having start up
and idle
problems...though some days it was fine, and generally I could
keep it going
if the AC was on.
It has gotten progressively worse...this morning I had
to have the car
flat-bedded to my buddy's shop, after a complete no-start.
Starter runs,
but it sounds fuel-starved.
To Charles: yes, I changed
the fuel filter.
This weekend I ruled out most of the electronics, and
it's looking more
and more like a fuel pump issues, but we're going to try
to flow test the
pump today and verify it.
Anyone with other
suggestions?
Drew
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 14:02:00
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Alternator?
Chris-
Although it sounds like your alternator, this
could be a dead battery too,
and/or an unintentional ground or short circuit
along your charging system.
If you have a good battery lying around or can
borrow a friend's, I'd
recommend doing that, then checking the charging
system before you change
your alternator.
Riyan
1993 stealth rt
tt
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:31:51
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Fw:
3S-Racers: Sears Point NASA event Oct 12/13
Due to the underwhelming
response to the email copied below I thought
I'd resend it and assume that
the first copy got lost in the mail --- where
are the racer types
?!?!?!?!
Jim
Berry
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Two
day event at Sears Point --- full track after a year of renovations.
Geoff
said he could probably get a spot reserved for us as he did
last year. I've
got 3 or 4 folks from Southern California lined up, now
if we can get another
batch from Northern California we can have a
pretty good turnout ----
I'd like to see at least seven or eight 3S cars.
Plus Geoff has some racing
buddies who like to have fun at the
track.
Any non
California folks who want to take a real nice vacation Sears
Point is in the
heart of the wine country and one hour from San
Francisco or the coastal
redwoods --- your SO may even forgive your
taking time off to race for 2 days
---- or just come and watch if you
think racing abuses your car too much.
See the following link for additional
info.
http://www.nasaproracing.com/norcal/
Jim Berry
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 16:53:38
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Fw: 3S-Racers: Sears Point NASA event Oct 12/13
You can count me in as a
definite. All of you guys w/in a reasonable
distance should definitely
consider this event. Last year, we had a
great turnout and I don't
think anyone had anything less than an amazing
time ,except Ken, of course
:-(. it's not expensive, the full track is
fully renovated, and should
be a great time of year weather-wise.
Once the website is up for this
event (if Geoff or someone else is going
to do it) someone should post on
3Si.org under the racing section, as
well as the gathering section.
Perhaps even the general, just to get
word out to as many as
possible.
Jim, If you need any help, let me know and I'll do what I
can.
Love to see 15 cars out there running, but I'll be happy with
14!!!
Damon
fastmax wrote:
> Due to the underwhelming
response to the email copied below I thought
> I'd resend it and assume
that the first copy got lost in the mail --- where
> are the racer types
?!?!?!?!
>
> Jim
Berry
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> Two
day event at Sears Point --- full track after a year of renovations.
>
Geoff said he could probably get a spot reserved for us as he did
> last
year. I've got 3 or 4 folks from Southern California lined up, now
> if we
can get another batch from Northern California we can have a
>
pretty good turnout ---- I'd like to see at least seven or eight 3S
cars.
> Plus Geoff has some racing buddies who like to have fun at the
> track.
>
> Any non California folks who
want to take a real nice vacation Sears
> Point is in the heart of the
wine country and one hour from San
> Francisco or the coastal redwoods ---
your SO may even forgive your
> taking time off to race for 2 days ---- or
just come and watch if you
> think racing abuses your car too much.
>
> See the following link for additional
info.
>
>
http://www.nasaproracing.com/norcal/>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 16:56:43
-0700
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fw: 3S-Racers: Sears Point NASA event Oct 12/13
Well I plan on
going (and driving for a change) - but I just went to the
Nasa site and while
the SP event in October is actually listed under the
"event registration"
section - they aren't taking online registrations as
the event is full?
I hope this is some sort of misprint/error as the event
just became listed
under registration and I've been planning for 3 months to
make
this.
Anyone else in the same boat - I've got some of the 3Si guys
convinced to go
out and we should all be able to register for HPDE the track
is a hell of a
lot bigger than last year (I saw it in person about 10 days
ago - the
chicane on the east side of the track now goes into the long
straight to the
southern tip of the track ...).
Rick
PS Jim, I saw
your original e-mail, but didn't know you wanted a response
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 03, 2002 4:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: Fw: 3S-Racers: Sears
Point NASA event Oct 12/13
> Due to the underwhelming response to the
email copied below I thought
> I'd resend it and assume that the first
copy got lost in the mail ---
where
> are the racer types
?!?!?!?!
>
> Jim
Berry
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> Two
day event at Sears Point --- full track after a year of renovations.
>
Geoff said he could probably get a spot reserved for us as he did
> last
year. I've got 3 or 4 folks from Southern California lined up, now
> if we
can get another batch from Northern California we can have a
>
pretty good turnout ---- I'd like to see at least seven or eight 3S
cars.
> Plus Geoff has some racing buddies who like to have fun at
the
> track.
>
> Any non California folks who want
to take a real nice vacation Sears
> Point is in the heart of the wine
country and one hour from San
> Francisco or the coastal redwoods --- your
SO may even forgive your
> taking time off to race for 2 days ---- or just
come and watch if you
> think racing abuses your car too
much.
>
> See the following link for additional
info.
>
>
http://www.nasaproracing.com/norcal/>
>
Jim Berry
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 17:14:22
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fw: 3S-Racers: Sears Point NASA event Oct 12/13
I just spoke with NASA
NorCal and the reason the site is not taking
reservations yet is that they
have not officially opened registration
for this event. Check the site
www.nasaproracing.com thursday or
friday
to register. He said that he fully expects the event to
completely fill
up (based on previous dates at SP) and if we want to get a
group of 10+
cars running, there is no way to alot a block, to his
knowledge.
Perhaps Geoff can work his magic as he's done in the past and set
things
up for the rest of us.
So, check back on thursday/friday and
see if the registration process is
open. I would do this quickly if it
were me.
Can we start a list of people interested in going/racing perhaps
on the
speedtoys website?
Damon
Rick Pierce
wrote:
> Well I plan on going (and driving for a change) - but I just
went to the
> Nasa site and while the SP event in October is actually
listed under the
> "event registration" section - they aren't taking
online registrations as
> the event is full? I hope this is some
sort of misprint/error as the event
> just became listed under
registration and I've been planning for 3 months to
> make this.
>
> Anyone else in the same boat - I've got some of the 3Si guys convinced
to go
> out and we should all be able to register for HPDE the track is a
hell of a
> lot bigger than last year (I saw it in person about 10 days
ago - the
> chicane on the east side of the track now goes into the long
straight to the
> southern tip of the track ...).
>
>
Rick
> PS Jim, I saw your original e-mail, but didn't know you wanted a
response
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
> To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 4:31 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Fw:
3S-Racers: Sears Point NASA event Oct 12/13
>
>
>
>>Due to the underwhelming response to the email copied below I
thought
>>I'd resend it and assume that the first copy got lost in the
mail ---
>>
> where
>
>>are the racer types
?!?!?!?!
>>
>> Jim
Berry
>>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>>
Two day event at Sears Point --- full track after a year of
renovations.
>>Geoff said he could probably get a spot reserved for us
as he did
>>last year. I've got 3 or 4 folks from Southern California
lined up, now
>>if we can get another batch from Northern California we
can have a
>> pretty good turnout ---- I'd like to see at least seven
or eight 3S cars.
>>Plus Geoff has some racing buddies who like to have
fun at the
>> track.
>>
>> Any non California folks
who want to take a real nice vacation Sears
>>Point is in the heart of
the wine country and one hour from San
>>Francisco or the coastal
redwoods --- your SO may even forgive your
>>taking time off to race
for 2 days ---- or just come and watch if you
>>think racing abuses
your car too much.
>>
>> See the following link for additional
info.
>>
>>
http://www.nasaproracing.com/norcal/>>
>>
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:14:25
-0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <
pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hipresr up
for grabs
Every one knows the myth's and legend's behind this car, so
why not own it
:)
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854591355&r>
=0&t=0
>
> Asking price of $23k firm and $25k with plenum and
wide band o2 sensor.
> Thank you!!! :)
>
You can contact me at
pala@gwl.com or at
303-737-4733
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 18:53:57
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Part # please
I think the part you are referring to is the vacuum
line for the clutch
booster. It runs from the rear of the plenum on the
driver's side to a hard
line by the brake master cylinder. It has a
plastic check valve in it.
P/N: MB892600 $4.54
http://www.mitsupartsdirect.com
> I'm not entirely sure of what the part is called, but if you
> are in front of
> the car looking at the engine, it is a hose
that runs from
> the bottom right
> side of the plenum. It's a
fairly thick hose, I think its
> braided, and it
> has a plastic
section inside it I think.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 09:19:03
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: NEED ADVICE HOW TO SET THE IGNITION TIMING CORRECTLY
Hi
All,
I started the engine and run at idle around 900 rpm then I
grounded the
terminal for adjustment of ignition timing and also grounded the
terminal
inside near fuses console box but see what happen the rpm decrease
till 500
rpm I did not adjusted BISS to set up to 750 rpm since I do not want
the rpm
will go up over than 900 rpm after setting the ignition timing done.
By
ignition timing light I checked the timing and setting at 5 deg.
BTDC.
Setting the timing at 5 deg. BTDC I have turned CAS.
After that I
ungrounded the terminal adjustment of ignition timing, look
what happen the
rpm go to 900 rpm and the timing at T (top dead center).
In my question, why
the timing changed to T (TDC) not at 5 deg. BTDC as I
set before. As manual
said that it must be at 5 deg. BTDC and the rpm around
750 rpm.
If I set
the timing incorrectly please help me how to set the ignition
timing
correctly and I would the rpm run at 750 rpm.
Before I set the ignition
timing, should I set first the rpm till 750 rpm
then set the ignition timing
at 5 deg. BTDC
Kindly regards,
Mei Harijanto
CV. Duta Karya
Teknik
Jl. Jemur Wonosari JN/2
Surabaya 60237
Indonesia
Telp. (62)
31 841 8236
Fax. (62) 31 843 7833
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:47:52
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sears Point NASA event Oct 12/13
I'll speak with "da boss" over
at NASA tomorrow about a plan for early
registration for anyone (like
non-Team3S folks) who want to register directly
from the website. I'm
the NASA liaison, so everyone interested in joining us
at *any* NASA event
should contact me ASAP. Make sure to copy Jim Berry
(fastmax), since
he's coordinating the event). I've already made arrangements
with NASA
for at least 10 cars under our banner for the October 12/13 HPDE,
and there
WILL be a special Parade Lap for Team3S member cars (and all Stealth
and
3000GT folks who come with us)!!! Please make sure to suggest to
any
non-members of Team3S that they either join us or join the Team3S Racers
list,
and that they contact me or Jim with the following:
- --Name,
address, phone
- --Car, model, year
- --NASA membership number
-
--Which days they will be participating
- --Preferred HPDE "run
group"
(1=Novice, 2=Learning, 3=Experienced, 4=Advanced)
Please also
make sure that any friends who will be coming to the event but NOT
racing
list their name and car with us, so we can make further arrangements
for an
extra area to be cordoned off for all our cars.
Team3S has "favored"
status with NASA, so we want to make sure to reciprocate.
Team3S volunteers
at every event to help NASA however we can, and we
piggybacked Geoff &
Nissa's "Speedtoys" to join with us for even greater
number of cars to show
up at the track. They are not 3S cars, but there are
some pretty
impressive offerings, from Geoffs MR-2 (which should be a turbo by
now) and
Nissa's RX-7 turbo, and some of Geoff's pals - a Lingenfelter
Firebird with
600+ HP, and a 2001 Diablo with 700 HP (550 to the wheels), etc.
Team3S
also volunteers to run the free Saturday night NASA BBQ at every
event,
again, with Speedtoys joining us... Geoff is chief burger
flipper, and Nissa
runs the kitchen with ET (who also runs the gas-powered
"blender thingy" for
her famed Margaritas and Mudslides).
This is
going to be a great event, so contact me and Jim right away with
your
information!
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 06:40:39
-0400 (EDT)
From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
(Kimberly Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: overdrive light
I have a 1994 3000GT
that has an automatic transmission. The overdrive
switch is on the shifter
and there is a light on the dash that tells me
when the overdrive is off. I
noticed yesterday that my dash light would
not come on. No matter how many
times I pushed the overdrive button, the
dash light stayed off. The overdrive
is working, so I will assume that
the light bulb is burned out? Does anyone
know how to fix that?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 08:30:09
-0400
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please not a head gasket
Don't mean to scare you, but...
a
friend of mine just had a very similar experience... turned out to be
a
spun bearing on cyl#1.
He took it to a shop to have it positively
diagnosed (the shop knows our
cars pretty well), but we had a strong idea of
it beforehand.
For reference, the clicking sounded a LOT like lifter
tick, except MUCH
louder, and it never went away. He also noticed his
oil pressure was a
little low, and decided against doing an oil change that
day :(
Good luck,
Joe
91 RT/TT black
Adam Knowlton
wrote:
>
> I was driving yesterday and noticed a LOUD
clicking
> coming from under the hood. I stopped and popped
the
> hood and I'm fairly sure its the crankshaft that's
>
cliking. I added about half a quart of oil and that
> only quieted
the clicking for about five maybe ten
> minutes. I also noticed a
huge drop in power before I
> added the oil. Even after added
though, the turbo's
> would spool up really fast, but I wasn't getting
any
> really boost. Only after releasing the pedal and
>
reapplying pressure did I accelerate. Any help on
> this situation
would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Adam
>
Wounded 92 RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 09:15:11
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tyres for 17 inch rims
You're welcome, Andy. Do you come
across any sand on the roadway over
there? That could simulate rain or
"gravel on the road" conditions and
would warrant a tire with deeper tread or
perhaps one semi-made for rain
that will sipe the sand out of the way (not
sure if that is what happens
at 100 mph on sand on pavement). If you
run on dry pavement then dry
traction is definitely important. Also,
you should be getting a tire
with an "A" rating for temp and an "A" rating
for traction I bet. Some
of them have an "AA" rating but temp is most
important to you I bet.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Andrew Spargo
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002
02:01
Thanks Darren
As I mentioned mine is a Middle East specs,
1999 model, and is different
in many respects to your specs in the States
(i.e. I use "leaded fuel",
5 speed manual, no O2 sensors, low rear spoiler
and unfortunately mine
is fitted with 17 X 7.5 JJ inch rims. I have sent the
entire
English/Arabic sales brochure to someone on the list and he
was
surprised at the differences. I think it might also have an
uprated
cooling system as the temperature here is around 50 C during the
summer
months and I drive 50 miles to work at an average speed of over
100MPH
and the temp. gauge never goes above midway. I will assume that
the
235/45's will fit OK, just need the expert advise from the list as
to
which tyre is best, remember it only rains here about 3 times a year
so
good traction in the dry is important for me.
Andy
Spargo
e-mail
spargo@bigfoot.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 08:31:07
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Please not a head gasket
Spun bearing huh....
For you sake,
hopefully it's not that. If I'm not mistaken, those seem
pretty common in our
cars. Just yesterday I went out stealth surfing and saw
a bunch of 'em for
sale with spun bearings.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#943
***************************************