Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Monday, September 2 2002   Volume 01 : Number 941




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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 12:16:40 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re Team3S: Fog Light Suggestions

I installed PIAA Fog Light bulbs in my 1997 VR-4 and they are incredible.  Much brighter than the stock bulbs.

They were also an excellent compliment to the bright white bulbs, just like you installed, that I installed in my low and high
beams.

Hope this helps
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm

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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:22:49 EDT
From: Keisuke6G72@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Fog Light Suggestions

Hey All,

Recently I installed a set of xenon bulbs into the H4 light assembly for my
91 3000GT SL.  They look awesome and light up the road wonderfully, but my 12
year old foglights look extremely dim and dirty compared to the bright clean
headlights.  Does anyone know of a xenon replacement bulb that would work in
the existing foglight casing?  And if not does anyone recommend a particular
brand of foglights that would match xenon headlights?  Thanks for your help!

Scott
91 SL awaiting Flash!'s mechanical expertise on brake upgrade =)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 13:07:19 -0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Krankvent HP gains

- -----------------------
> Not that easily! Try blowing into a hose attached to a boost guage or
> similar device. Tell us how much pressure you can produce with your
> lungs.   It always requires force (and power) to compress air. Besides,
> liquid fluids do not compress at all! I am not defending ETP's hp
> increase arguments (nor the merits of twin cylinders moving together
> instead of oppositely), just commenting on the statement concerning
> compression.
>
> Jeff Lucius,  http://www.stealth316.com/
> -----------------------
>
> I'm certainly no match for an engine that produces even 20-30 HP.  How
> muchHP do home air compressors have ........ 50? 95?  Maybe 5 - 10?
>  Without PCV how much pressure is generated in a modern day engine
> crankcase?  With PCV, it is atmospheric or slightly below.  In 'normal'
> engines, how much blow-by (incompetent rings) is seen across the life of
> a modern emissions engine?  That could be measured by oil use, smoke,
> contaminants in the oil.  How much pressure / compression (turbo,
> supercharger, compression ratio) is needed in an engine with good rings
> to see blow-by.  Very rare in modern day engines, again.  In older
> engines (I can remember because I am old) sealing problems were common.
> Everything leaked from EVERY orifice, including rings.  New technology
> (polymer and metalurgical) have help tremendously.  The key to this
> thread was the statement that motorcycles with 1790's technology use
> this venting system.  It MIGHT help those engines.
>
> I've been through the hot rod days (25-30 yrs ago) of everyone claiming
> HP for everything they sell.  Somethings don't change.
>
> Dennis -==- Philly

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 14:33:14 EDT
From: ScottDandeve@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question

Hi ,
My name is Yvonne
We are in Germany, Military. I bought a stealth from a nother soldier here in
germany. Have a big Prob. with my Breaks. 8 month ago i replaced the whole
system with new original dodge parts. now i have shaking in  high speed
again. they reservest the disc and  put new pads on but that didnt help. then
they changed some kind of stering  bearings or something like that. no good.
the person that fixes my car got a masters degree and he dont know what els
to do. please help. i have been looking for years to find a 94 and i really
like my car, spend a lot of money on 18 inch rims ans had dragons custum made
for my hood. but if i dont get my breaks under controll i have to get rith of
the car. Iam german and i love the autobahn, which can be deadly with my
breaks. hope anybody  would have an idea.
ps. sorry for any writing errors ,like i said i am german 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 14:28:55 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re Shaking German Brakes

If you have shaking at high speeds, I can't help you.

If the shaking occurs under braking at high speeds, then here are some
things to check:

First, examine the rotors carefully. Look through the wheel spokes and
see if the rotors are wearing evenly. They should be shiny and smooth all
the way across -- no ridges, no rust. Reach in and feel both sides of the
rotor with your fingertips to see if the rotor surface is smooth. If you
feel ridges or see rust, the pads may not be seated properly, or the
caliper may be sticking. You may just need a new set of pads.

Get a dentist mirror and a flashlight and make sure you have plenty of
pad left. Just poke the mirror through the wheel spokes. Be sure to check
both sides, because the inner pads always seem to wear down first.

If the rotor feels smooth and you have plenty of pad depth, then I
suspect you have warped the rotors again. As I understand it, Germans
resurface brake rotors without removing the rotor from the car. Yuk. If
that's how it was done, take the car somewhere else, have the rotors
removed and resurfaced properly, and reinstall the rotors with a new set
of pads. Make sure the rotors have not reached throwaway depth (1.118
in.)

Remember that you can warp stock rotors with ONE high speed braking
incident. If you slam on the brakes at 150 mph, it's possible to warp a
set of front rotors. You can also warp rotors by braking incorrectly. The
worst possible thing is to "ride" the brakes down long hills, or to
gently apply them over a long stopping distance, because they will get
very hot. It's better to hit them hard for a brief time than it is to
gently apply them for a long time. If you drive in an area with lots of
hills, and you drive hard through there, you may have to upgrade your
brakes with a set of Porterfield R4S pads, and get some cooling air to
the brakes.

The next time you buy a new set of rotors, take them somewhere to have
them cryogenically treated. It costs $20 per rotor to have it done here
in the U.S., so it will probably cost you $50 per rotor in Germany. See
http://www.cryoeng.com/motorsports.html  After the rotors are
cryogenically treated, they will not warp. Well, mine don't warp, anyway.

Rich/slow old poop

At 02:33 PM 8/31/02 EDT, you wrote:
My name is Yvonne
We are in Germany, Military. I bought a stealth from a nother soldier
here in germany. Have a big Prob. with my Breaks. 8 month ago i replaced
the whole system with new original dodge parts. now i have shaking in
high speed again. they reservest the disc and  put new pads on but that
didnt help. then they changed some kind of stering  bearings or something
like that. no good. the person that fixes my car got a masters degree and
he dont know what els to do. please help. i have been looking for years
to find a 94 and i really like my car, spend a lot of money on 18 inch
rims ans had dragons custum made for my hood. but if i dont get my breaks
under controll i have to get rith of the car. Iam german and i love the
autobahn, which can be deadly with my breaks. hope anybody  would have an
idea.
ps. sorry for any writing errors ,like i said i am german  

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 09:46:48 -0400
From: Dennis Ninneman <dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question

Does this happen driving or upon applying the brakes?  Have you recently
traveled over roads with potholes?   If it is without application of the
brakes then .............  Have you had your wheels aligned and balanced
lately?  Some of the chrome wheels lose their weights very easily.
 Happened to me ......... a lot of shaking at 100kph.  Check that out first.

Dennis -==- Philly

ScottDandeve@aol.com wrote:

> Hi ,
> My name is Yvonne
> We are in Germany, Military. I bought a stealth from a nother soldier
> here in germany. Have a big Prob. with my Breaks. 8 month ago i
> replaced the whole system with new original dodge parts. now i have
> shaking in  high speed again. they reservest the disc and  put new
> pads on but that didnt help. then they changed some kind of stering 
> bearings or something like that. no good. the person that fixes my car
> got a masters degree and he dont know what els to do. please help. i
> have been looking for years to find a 94 and i really like my car,
> spend a lot of money on 18 inch rims ans had dragons custum made for
> my hood. but if i dont get my breaks under controll i have to get rith
> of the car. Iam german and i love the autobahn, which can be deadly
> with my breaks. hope anybody  would have an idea.
> ps. sorry for any writing errors ,like i said i am german 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 17:04:56 +0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject: Team3S: HOW TO SET THE IGNITION TIMING CORRECTLY

Hi All,

I started the engine and run at idle around 900 rpm then I grounded the
terminal for adjustment of ignition timing and also grounded the terminal
inside near fuses console box but see what happen the rpm decrease till 500
rpm I did not adjusted BISS to set up to 750 rpm since I do not want the rpm
will go up over than 900 rpm after setting the ignition timing done. By
ignition timing light I checked the timing and setting at 5 deg. BTDC.
Setting the timing at 5 deg. BTDC I have turned CAS.
After that I ungrounded the terminal adjustment of ignition timing, look
what happen the rpm go to 900 rpm and the timing at T (top dead center).
In my question, why the timing changed to T (TDC) not at 5 deg. BTDC as I
set before. As manual said that it must be at 5 deg. BTDC and the rpm around
750 rpm.
If I set the timing incorrectly please help me how to set the ignition
timing correctly and I would the rpm run at 750 rpm.

Kindly regards,
Mei Harijanto
CV. Duta Karya Teknik
Jl. Jemur Wonosari JN/2
Surabaya 60237
Indonesia
Telp. (62) 31 841 8236
Fax.  (62) 31 843 7833

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #941
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