Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, August 28 2002
Volume 01 : Number
938
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:32:38 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: Police radars
The trailer radars usually can read your speed for two
reasons. One,
they get you in less than the 200-300 feet where the
jammer does not
work anymore. Two, those units are usually more
powerful than the
police cruisers units. They don't have to worry about
radiating the
cops, therefore the zone where the jammer doesn't work may
increase from
200-300 feet to 400-500 feet.
The ticket rebate is only
for the 1st year. It doesn't allow you to go
more than 10mph/10% over
the limit. Since most people speed more when
they get a ticket, they
cannot take advantage of the rebate.
Personally, I never had to use the
rebate. I am speed ticketless.
- -MIHAI-
95 3000GT
VR4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Moe Prasad
[mailto:mprasad@qwest.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 1:38
PM
> To:
aa2345@wayne.edu;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
anscray@attbi.com;
dougusmagnus@attbi.com> Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Police radars
>
> Mihai,
>
> There is
a radar setup as you enter DIA's east concourse. Have you
ever
>
tested it on that?
>
> Regarding the fine print about paying for a
ticket within 10 mph of
the
> speed limit: In 99.99% of the cases
you only get pulled over when you
> exceed 10 mph over the speed limit.
Even the radar at DIA doesn't
flash
> red
> until you
hit 56 mph. The speed limit there is 45 mph.
>
> I have seen tests
done on TV with this unit and the radar was able to
tell
> the speed of
the car. Can you explain that?
>
> Rgds
>
Moe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Cc: <
anscray@attbi.com>; <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 11:25 PM
> Subject: Team3S: RE: Police
radars
>
>
> > I own the Rocky Mountain Radar+Laser
Jammer and Radar Detector. It
is a
> > small unit the size of
a regular radar detector. It protects from
the
> > front, but
detects 360 deg. Owning one (my brother has one too) for
the
>
> past 4-5 years has jammed many troopers/local copucinos
privacy
invading
> > equipment. It does work. A local
Michigan 3SI member (is also on
Team
> > 3S list) has tested it in
person against one particular band police
> > radar gun. The
jammer jammed the speed signal for the cop until he
got
> > within
200-300 feet. Then the cop could read his speed. This is
>
> documented in the literature for the unit.
> >
> > The
reason you probably see some bad publicity for this unit is
because
>
> someone is trying to promote a different unit.
> >
> >
Yours truly,
> >
> > -MIHAI-
> > 95 3000GT
VR4
> > Rocky Mountain Radar/Laser Jammer and Detector
>
>
> > A true believer in knowing when someone is invading my
privacy. I
wish
> > I could be invisible though.
>
>
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 17:01:02
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Police radars
Doug,
>What bands does it jam? Does it jam
all 3 (X, K and Ka)?
>
It jams X, K, Ka, and Laser. It is
an active Laser jammer and passive
radar jammer.
>Does it actually
jam the signal or does it emmit a dummy signal that
allows >you to program
in your own speed?
>
It will blank the readout of the cop's
unit. They will not get a speed
on you.
>Many police radar
guns can detect jamming. Does this one trip their
>jamming
alert?
>
I do not know. Supposedly it is VG2. When I speed
excessively and I
see a cop waiting on the median 1 mile ahead, I slow down
to the limit
then unplug the unit. However, in the city, when I go 40
mph, and if
there is another car near me, I will leave the unit plugged in
just to
piss the dude off for invading my privacy. Depends on the mood
I'm in
and what rules I broke in the previous 10
seconds.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 17:01:29
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Police Radars --> you can order one too
Here is how you can order your
Jammer:
I ordered it from a company called Heartland America. The
phone number
is 800-229-2901. Their website is
www.heartlandamerica.com. There
is a
new model available that is called the Rocky Mountain Phantom II
Radar
Detector (Item #: V7-78052). It costs $249 after a $20 mail in
rebate
(offer expires 8/31/02). This new unit is a radar/laser jammer
and
radar/laser detector.
Installation...plug it in the cigarette
lighter and put it on the
windshield. Make sure it's level with the
ground and keep your eyes
peeled for cops. You still have to break when
you are close. If a cop
is very close to you and uses instant on, they
will have you. If a cop
is on an onramp and getting you from the back
as you zoom by him, the
detector will beep, but you have been had because you
are too close to
him and the jammer only protects from the front.
-
-MIHAI-
95 300GT VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 17:09:23
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Police Radars --> you can order one too
Mihai, I
appreciate the input but if it leaves you that vulnerable than I
would rather
have my V1, which AFAIK has won the C&D detector shootout the
last 4
years in row........ Again this is IMHO due to only being
bagged
once in 5 years and that time it was night and the cop was pacing me
:(
> Installation...plug it in the cigarette lighter and put it on
the
> windshield. Make sure it's level with the ground and keep your
eyes
> peeled for cops. You still have to break when you are
close. If a cop
> is very close to you and uses instant on, they
will have you. If a cop
> is on an onramp and getting you from the
back as you zoom by him, the
> detector will beep, but you have been had
because you are too close to
> him and the jammer only protects from the
front.
>
> -MIHAI-
> 95 300GT VR4
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
-
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 17:30:16
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Police Radars --> you can order one too
I have the Phantom
II, and have walked through many a trap. I also got
gunned at very
close range (50') at 25 over the limit and never even got any
attention let
alone stopped. I too was nabbed by a pacer, but that's life!
I swear by
my PII out there on the highway though.
Ken
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Mihai Raicu
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 27, 2002 5:01 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
'dakken'
> Subject: Team3S: RE: Police Radars --> you can order one
too
>
>
> Here is how you can order your
Jammer:
>
> I ordered it from a company called Heartland
America. The phone number
> is 800-229-2901. Their website is
www.heartlandamerica.com.
There is a
> new model available that is called the Rocky Mountain Phantom
II Radar
> Detector (Item #: V7-78052). It costs $249 after a $20
mail in rebate
> (offer expires 8/31/02). This new unit is a
radar/laser jammer and
> radar/laser detector.
>
>
Installation...plug it in the cigarette lighter and put it on the
>
windshield. Make sure it's level with the ground and keep your
eyes
> peeled for cops. You still have to break when you are
close. If a cop
> is very close to you and uses instant on, they
will have you. If a cop
> is on an onramp and getting you from the
back as you zoom by him, the
> detector will beep, but you have been had
because you are too close to
> him and the jammer only protects from the
front.
>
> -MIHAI-
> 95 300GT VR4
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 14:51:11
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
I am praying
there is some miracle cure for the problem(s) my car has
come down with.
When I start up the car and even if I let it warm up when I start to
get
moving the clutch will not engage enough (or there is something
else
hindering the shifting) for me to get it into gear without grinding
and
it's VERY hard to move. I have to turn the car off, put it into
gear,
then start it back up and it acts like it wants to pull, but I
still
have to let out the clutch a little ways to get it to
move???
This is the kicker, once moving it is still almost impossible to
shift
even while rev matching best I can, and get then, if I put on power
to
get it in and take off, it will slip under power??????? This has been
a
PERODIC problem, sometimes (like this afternoon) it was fine,
sometimes
after you drive it around for a while it is fine, some times it
starts
fine and gets worse, sometimes when you start it up it doesn't have
any
problem at all and stays that way all day??? I have taken it to
my
mechanic and this is what they have done (been there like 5 times now
:(
Replaced . . . Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and vacuum
assist
valve. The clutch is new with less than 3000 miles on it put in when
the
2nd gear syncro was replaced, it is a 12 puck 3SX clutch and also a
new
Fidanza flywheel. Then have Re-removed the tranny (cost me ANOTHER
$500
I didn't have and had to put it on credit card while
unemployed!!)
messed with the lever arm, stuck a washer or something under it
to give
it more travel to separate the pressure plate further, that
still
doesn't work. It has since been back several times for checking
lines,
adjusting, this and that (one time the clutch master cylinder lines
were
not tight and the fluid leaked out). All of these problems started
when
the tranny was fixed & clutch & flywheel were replaced.
I
am out of time, out of money, and most definitely out of patience. Is
there
anything you guys can suggest?? Please help me, this is the first
time I have
asked a serious question for help on the tech list, but I am
also on
3Sracers, 3Si, Starnet, NWS3, and I organize meets for the
Portland lunch
group when I can. This is also my 2nd stealth. I really
need some help / info
/ advice here!!! What the heck is going on!?!?!?!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 18:18:43
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
Sounds like FOD
between the pressure plate and flywheel.
Maybe a warped clutch disc, but
never saw one bad enough to cause problems.
This can happen if clutch parts
or disc material gets lodged on one side.
You can't release enough to fully
release, yet once released, you cannot get flush contact, only partial
engagement. As the debris move a bit, the response changes.
Hope its
something else, but sounds terminal.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: BlackLight
[mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 2:51
PM
To:
team3S@team3s.comSubject:
Team3S: Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
I am
praying there is some miracle cure for the problem(s) my car has
come down
with.
When I start up the car and even if I let it warm up when I start
to get
moving the clutch will not engage enough (or there is something
else
hindering the shifting) for me to get it into gear without grinding
and
it's VERY hard to move. I have to turn the car off, put it into
gear,
then start it back up and it acts like it wants to pull, but I
still
have to let out the clutch a little ways to get it to
move???
This is the kicker, once moving it is still almost impossible to
shift
even while rev matching best I can, and get then, if I put on power
to
get it in and take off, it will slip under power??????? This has been
a
PERODIC problem, sometimes (like this afternoon) it was fine,
sometimes
after you drive it around for a while it is fine, some times it
starts
fine and gets worse, sometimes when you start it up it doesn't have
any
problem at all and stays that way all day??? I have taken it to
my
mechanic and this is what they have done (been there like 5 times now
:(
Replaced . . . Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and vacuum
assist
valve. The clutch is new with less than 3000 miles on it put in when
the
2nd gear syncro was replaced, it is a 12 puck 3SX clutch and also a
new
Fidanza flywheel. Then have Re-removed the tranny (cost me ANOTHER
$500
I didn't have and had to put it on credit card while
unemployed!!)
messed with the lever arm, stuck a washer or something under it
to give
it more travel to separate the pressure plate further, that
still
doesn't work. It has since been back several times for checking
lines,
adjusting, this and that (one time the clutch master cylinder lines
were
not tight and the fluid leaked out). All of these problems started
when
the tranny was fixed & clutch & flywheel were replaced.
I
am out of time, out of money, and most definitely out of patience. Is
there
anything you guys can suggest?? Please help me, this is the first
time I have
asked a serious question for help on the tech list, but I am
also on
3Sracers, 3Si, Starnet, NWS3, and I organize meets for the
Portland lunch
group when I can. This is also my 2nd stealth. I really
need some help / info
/ advice here!!! What the heck is going on!?!?!?!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 22:19:31
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
> I am
praying there is some miracle cure for the
> problem(s) my car has come
down with.
If I had to take a guess, I'd say your clutch has a
defective pressure plate. For it to not release AND
slip under
power there's got to be something wrong there.
Another possibility is
that you actually adjusted (or
someone did) the clutch lever rod too far out
of the
pedal assembly and it is preloading the clutch cylinder
which can
cause all sorts of wacky
engagement/disengagement problems. Try
adjusting it so
the rod is screwed more into the pedal assembly, give it
a few pumps and see where the disengagement point is.
Hopefully
it'll have moved back to a more normal
position and then use small
adjustments from there.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 17:01:08
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Question (engagement point)
When I had a RPS clutch
installed, the engagement point was just a couple of
inches above the
floor. I didn't like it. I just adjusted the pedal so
that the
clutch engages and disengages near the top of the pedal now. I
like it
a lot better now.
Adjusting the pedal is easy. Just take a wrench (
I believe it is 17mm ),
loosen the lock nut and then turn the adjustment
screw with a pair of
pliers. Start the engine and check the engagement
point every now and then.
When you are happy with the engagement point,
tighten the lock nut back
down.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 00:00:28
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Question (engagement point)
At 20:01 8/27/2002, dakken
wrote:
>Adjusting the pedal is easy. Just take a wrench ( I believe
it is 17mm ),
>loosen the lock nut and then turn the adjustment screw with
a pair of
>pliers. Start the engine and check the engagement point
every now and then.
>When you are happy with the engagement point, tighten
the lock nut back
>down.
That is easier said than done. Most of the
people who want to make the
engagement point higher are already out of the
screw adjustment range. And
you have to have some free play there, you
know.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 00:50:12
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
The tranny
has already been removed and reinstalled once, so I doubt
that would be the
problem, but I will bring it up with my mechanic and
see what he
says.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt [mailto:Kurt.Zobel@ca.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 3:19 PM
To: BlackLight;
team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
Sounds like FOD
between the pressure plate and flywheel.
Maybe a warped clutch disc, but
never saw one bad enough to cause
problems. This can happen if clutch parts
or disc material gets lodged
on one side. You can't release enough to fully
release, yet once
released, you cannot get flush contact, only partial
engagement. As the
debris move a bit, the response changes.
Hope its
something else, but sounds terminal.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: BlackLight
[mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 2:51
PM
To:
team3S@team3s.comSubject:
Team3S: Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
I am
praying there is some miracle cure for the problem(s) my car has
come down
with.
When I start up the car and even if I let it warm up when I start
to get
moving the clutch will not engage enough (or there is something
else
hindering the shifting) for me to get it into gear without grinding
and
it's VERY hard to move. I have to turn the car off, put it into
gear,
then start it back up and it acts like it wants to pull, but I
still
have to let out the clutch a little ways to get it to
move???
This is the kicker, once moving it is still almost impossible to
shift
even while rev matching best I can, and get then, if I put on power
to
get it in and take off, it will slip under power??????? This has been
a
PERODIC problem, sometimes (like this afternoon) it was fine,
sometimes
after you drive it around for a while it is fine, some times it
starts
fine and gets worse, sometimes when you start it up it doesn't have
any
problem at all and stays that way all day??? I have taken it to
my
mechanic and this is what they have done (been there like 5 times now
:(
Replaced . . . Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and vacuum
assist
valve. The clutch is new with less than 3000 miles on it put in when
the
2nd gear syncro was replaced, it is a 12 puck 3SX clutch and also a
new
Fidanza flywheel. Then have Re-removed the tranny (cost me ANOTHER
$500
I didn't have and had to put it on credit card while
unemployed!!)
messed with the lever arm, stuck a washer or something under it
to give
it more travel to separate the pressure plate further, that
still
doesn't work. It has since been back several times for checking
lines,
adjusting, this and that (one time the clutch master cylinder lines
were
not tight and the fluid leaked out). All of these problems started
when
the tranny was fixed & clutch & flywheel were replaced.
I
am out of time, out of money, and most definitely out of patience. Is
there
anything you guys can suggest?? Please help me, this is the first
time I have
asked a serious question for help on the tech list, but I am
also on
3Sracers, 3Si, Starnet, NWS3, and I organize meets for the
Portland lunch
group when I can. This is also my 2nd stealth. I really
need some help / info
/ advice here!!! What the heck is going on!?!?!?!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 05:14:27
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
It sounds like
you have ruled out just about everything. The problem sounds
like the clutch
disk material is either defective or oil soaked. Is the
clutch installer
willing to put in another disk? It does not sound like the
flywheel or the
pressure plate, although a sticking spring in the pressure
plate could do it.
Good luck.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
To:
"'Zobel, Kurt'" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>; <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
August 28, 2002 12:50 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch problems again and again
HELP!! Please!!!!
| The tranny has already been removed and
reinstalled once, so I doubt
| that would be the problem, but I will bring it
up with my mechanic and
| see what he says.
|
| Matt Nelson
| 1994
RT TT
|
BlackLight@Planetice.Net|
www.BlackLight.5u.com|
|
-----Original Message-----
| From: Zobel, Kurt
[mailto:Kurt.Zobel@ca.com]
| Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 3:19 PM
| To:
BlackLight;
team3S@team3s.com|
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch problems again and again HELP!!
Please!!!!
|
|
| Sounds like FOD between the pressure plate and
flywheel.
| Maybe a warped clutch disc, but never saw one bad enough to
cause
| problems. This can happen if clutch parts or disc material gets
lodged
| on one side. You can't release enough to fully release, yet
once
| released, you cannot get flush contact, only partial engagement. As
the
| debris move a bit, the response changes.
|
| Hope its something
else, but sounds terminal.
|
| Kurt
|
| -----Original
Message-----
| From: BlackLight [mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
| Sent:
Tuesday, August 27, 2002 2:51 PM
| To:
team3S@team3s.com| Subject: Team3S:
Clutch problems again and again HELP!! Please!!!!
|
|
| I am praying
there is some miracle cure for the problem(s) my car has
| come down
with.
|
| When I start up the car and even if I let it warm up when I
start to get
| moving the clutch will not engage enough (or there is
something else
| hindering the shifting) for me to get it into gear without
grinding and
| it's VERY hard to move. I have to turn the car off, put it
into gear,
| then start it back up and it acts like it wants to pull, but I
still
| have to let out the clutch a little ways to get it to
move???
|
| This is the kicker, once moving it is still almost impossible
to shift
| even while rev matching best I can, and get then, if I put on
power to
| get it in and take off, it will slip under power??????? This has
been a
| PERODIC problem, sometimes (like this afternoon) it was fine,
sometimes
| after you drive it around for a while it is fine, some times it
starts
| fine and gets worse, sometimes when you start it up it doesn't have
any
| problem at all and stays that way all day??? I have taken it to my
|
mechanic and this is what they have done (been there like 5 times now
:(
|
| Replaced . . . Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and vacuum
assist
| valve. The clutch is new with less than 3000 miles on it put in when
the
| 2nd gear syncro was replaced, it is a 12 puck 3SX clutch and also a
new
| Fidanza flywheel. Then have Re-removed the tranny (cost me ANOTHER
$500
| I didn't have and had to put it on credit card while
unemployed!!)
| messed with the lever arm, stuck a washer or something under
it to give
| it more travel to separate the pressure plate further, that
still
| doesn't work. It has since been back several times for checking
lines,
| adjusting, this and that (one time the clutch master cylinder lines
were
| not tight and the fluid leaked out). All of these problems started
when
| the tranny was fixed & clutch & flywheel were
replaced.
|
| I am out of time, out of money, and most definitely out of
patience. Is
| there anything you guys can suggest?? Please help me, this is
the first
| time I have asked a serious question for help on the tech list,
but I am
| also on 3Sracers, 3Si, Starnet, NWS3, and I organize meets for
the
| Portland lunch group when I can. This is also my 2nd stealth. I
really
| need some help / info / advice here!!! What the heck is going
on!?!?!?!
|
| Matt Nelson
| 1994 RT TT
|
BlackLight@Planetice.Net|
www.BlackLight.5u.com|
|
|
|
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
|
|
|
|
| *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 10:08:08
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Trailer hitches
Hey Al,
I was looking to pull a small U-haul
with my AWD, so I called them (U-haul) and they told me that it was capable of
pulling a class 2 hitch. I think that is 3500 or 4000 lbs. You can
probably just call them and find out, but don't do it short notice - a hitch for
our cars is special order.
geis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Elbert Klob
[mailto:elbertklob@megared.net.mx]
> Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 8:23
PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: Trailer hitches
>
>
> team 3s
>
> I have a 1992 Dodge Stealth N/A. According to
the manual you
> cannot put
> a trailer hitch onto this car. If
this information is wrong I
> would very
> much like to know the
limitations of towing with a Stealth. I need the
> ability to tow as I am
building a hovercraft and want to be
> able to tow
> it.
>
> Thanks for any advice that you have.
>
> Al Klob
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:01:01
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Question (engagement point)
> That is easier said than
done. Most of the people who
> want to make the engagement point higher
are already
> out of the screw adjustment range. And you have to
>
have some free play there, you know.
If they are that far to the end of
the adjustment, then
there's a different problem that the adjustment can't
correct, or they created the problem themselves by going
too far on the
adjustment and preloading the clutch
cylinder, or have some sort of gorilla
clutch which
wasn't designed to disengage properly.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
> At 20:01 8/27/2002, dakken wrote:
>
>Adjusting the pedal is easy. Just take a wrench ( I believe it is 17mm
),
> >loosen the lock nut and then turn the adjustment screw with a
pair of
> >pliers. Start the engine and check the engagement
point every now and then.
> >When you are happy with the engagement
point, tighten the lock nut back
> >down.
>
> That is
easier said than done. Most of the people who want to make the
>
engagement point higher are already out of the screw adjustment range. And
> you have to have some free play there, you know.
>
>
Philip
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 10:18:16
-0700 (PDT)
From: "joe d." <
ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: wheel fitment for '91 R/T TT
Do we really only have 3 options for
18" wheels?
SSR GT1
SSR GT3
Moda R6
I've tried Konig but they
have nothing that fits
because of the brake clearance problems. What
other
brands (if any) make 18s that fit a 1st gen
TT?
Thanks,
jd
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 13:22:07
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: wheel fitment for '91 R/T TT
Enkei RPO1's (discount
tire direct do a search by size + bolt pattern)
Also try wheeloptions.com
(they sell allot of wheels but no prices)
Also try
Dazzmotorsports.com
Hope this helps
Russ F
CT
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: joe d.
[SMTP:ja_dorsey@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 1:18
PM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: wheel fitment for '91 R/T TT
>
> Do we really only
have 3 options for 18" wheels?
> SSR GT1
> SSR GT3
> Moda
R6
>
> I've tried Konig but they have nothing that fits
>
because of the brake clearance problems. What other
> brands (if
any) make 18s that fit a 1st gen TT?
>
> Thanks,
> jd
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
>
http://finance.yahoo.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
-
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 14:29:06
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Question (engagement point)
Okay, how about this... It
is possible to adust the height of the pedal
within a limited range or
adjustment. It is also possible to make the free
play minimal. This way it is
possible to move the range or pedal travel as
high as possible and also make
that range as long as possible. But with
the free play already minimized, it
is NOT possible to make the engagement
point higher without pre-loading the
clutch. It is also not possible to
make the engagement point lower without
increasing the free play.
The engagement point on our clutches is not
adjustable. It is set
somewhere inside the hydraulic system. It is possible
to adjust the
position of the clutch pedal pedal, but the engagement point
will just
move with the pedal. If the clutch was engaging in the middle of
the
travel, it will still be engaging in the middle of the travel, no
matter
where that clutch pedal is positioned.
If the free play is
adjusted correctly, then the engagement point could be
too low either because
the hydraulic system is leaking (internally or
externally), has air it it, or
because some clutch components (flywheel,
pressure plate, springs, clutch
disk, throughout bearing, fork) are either
damaged, bent, or improperly
installed.
Philip
-
-----------------------------------
> > That is easier said than
done. Most of the people who
> > want to make the engagement point
higher are already
> > out of the screw adjustment range. And you have
to
> > have some free play there, you know.
>
> If they are
that far to the end of the adjustment, then
> there's a different problem
that the adjustment can't
> correct, or they created the problem
themselves by going
> too far on the adjustment and preloading the
clutch
> cylinder, or have some sort of gorilla clutch which
>
wasn't designed to disengage properly.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 14:29:33
EDT
From: <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Clutch Question (engagement point)
Okay, i'm confused. My understanding
was that when you adjust the pushrod,
you don't just move the engagement
point, you move the entire range - i.e.
both the engagement point and the
full pressure point. When the clutch first
begins to hook up, you're not yet
supplying the full pressure to the disk,
right? Full pressure, or rather
maximum pressure for a given adjustment to
the disk is then supplied when
your foot is completely off the pedal. Which
means that while pulling the
engagement point up from the floor may
eliminate problems with the clutch
not disengaging, wouldn't it create
problems with the clutch slipping,
because it's not completely engaged? Or
am I wrong?
BTW, are the
people that are experiencing these problems all RPS users? I
know I am and
several others mentioned that they were as well...
Alex.
'95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:10:32
EDT
From: <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Clutch Question (engagement point) (resend)
My email client is funky - i
don't think this went through:
It's my understanding by the way you
make the adjustment, that you _can_
change the point of engagement relative
to the pedal travel. When you adjust
the pushrod, you're not adjusting the
pedal, you're adjust the outer
boundries of travel for the rod - i.e. let's
say the rod is 60mm long, and
with the pedal fully depressed, it is 40 mm
pushed in, and when fully
released, it is 10 mm pushed in. You can adjust it
so that fully depressed
it's at 50mm and fully released it's at 20mm. While
this doesn't change the
amount that the rod needs to be pushed in to hit the
engagement point, this
changes the point of engagement relative to the pedal
travel. But if this is
correct, then this also implies that you can't move
just one point - you
can't move just the engagement point and leave the full
engagement point
where it is. You can shift the entire range, not individual
points on it.
If you shift the engagement point too high, then you may
shift the full
engagement point past the point where the pedal stops moving.
This would
then have the effect of driving around while constantly applying
some
pressure to the pedal...
Alex.
>
> Okay, how
about this... It is possible to adust the height of the pedal
> within a
limited range or adjustment. It is also possible to make the free
> play
minimal. This way it is possible to move the range or pedal travel as
>
high as possible and also make that range as long as possible. But with
>
the free play already minimized, it is NOT possible to make the
engagement
> point higher without pre-loading the clutch. It is also not
possible to
> make the engagement point lower without increasing the free
play.
>
> The engagement point on our clutches is not adjustable.
It is set
> somewhere inside the hydraulic system. It is possible to
adjust the
> position of the clutch pedal pedal, but the engagement point
will just
> move with the pedal. If the clutch was engaging in the middle
of the
> travel, it will still be engaging in the middle of the travel, no
matter
> where that clutch pedal is positioned.
>
> If the
free play is adjusted correctly, then the engagement point could be
> too
low either because the hydraulic system is leaking (internally or
>
externally), has air it it, or because some clutch components (flywheel,
>
pressure plate, springs, clutch disk, throughout bearing, fork) are
either
> damaged, bent, or improperly installed.
>
>
Philip
>
> -----------------------------------
>
>
> > That is easier said than done. Most of the people who
> >
> want to make the engagement point higher are already
> > > out
of the screw adjustment range. And you have to
> > > have some free
play there, you know.
> >
> > > If they are that far to the
end of the adjustment, then
> > > there's a different problem that
the adjustment can't
> > > correct, or they created the problem
themselves by going
> > > too far on the adjustment and preloading
the clutch
> > > cylinder, or have some sort of gorilla clutch
which
> > > wasn't designed to disengage properly.
> >
>
> > > -Matt
> > > '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:16:04
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Question (engagement point)
> My understanding was
that when you adjust the pushrod,
> you don't just move the engagement
point, you move the entire range -
i.e.
> both the engagement point and
the full pressure point.
Yep.
> When the clutch first
>
begins to hook up, you're not yet supplying the full pressure to
the
disk,
> right? Full pressure, or rather maximum pressure for a
given adjustment
to
> the disk is then supplied when your foot is
completely off the pedal.
Which
> means that while pulling the
engagement point up from the floor may
> eliminate problems with the
clutch not disengaging, wouldn't it create
> problems with the clutch
slipping, because it's not completely engaged?
Or
> am I
wrong?
If you have some free play left, then it will engage
completely.
> BTW, are the people that are experiencing these problems
all RPS users?
I
> know I am and several others mentioned that they
were as well...
I have a stock clutch (still). I do not have a problem,
but I still wish I
could have that clutch disengage
earlier.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:27:07
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Training Me 101: O2 Sensors, TPS
Rockville charges about
$105, as I did this recently. As always, shop around
though as locals wanted
$171.....
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Bedrock
Sent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 6:05 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Training Me 101:
O2 Sensors, TPS
I took out the TPS but I don't want to break it
trying what Jim suggested.
When I turn it by hand its almost like I can feel
it hitting flat spots
along the way back to the stop position ? If I do break
it where is the best
place to get one ( no hurry ) and about how much will it
run me?
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 135,000+
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
To: "'Bedrock'" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Sent: Monday,
August 26, 2002 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Training Me 101: O2
Sensors
> I have had the same problem with the TPS. Remove
the TPS and take a hair
> dryer and soften the glue seal on the
face. The seal can then be removed
> and there is a snap in plastic
cover over a potentiometer. This pot has
> four leads soldered to a
cir board, the leads are the plug in pins for the
> connector. You
can resolder the pins as the origional solder has probably
> given
up. You will likely see a crack around one or all of the solder
>
joints. Snap the cover back inplace and cover the plate with
black
silicon
> to keep dirt out and retain the stock appearance.
Mine has been OK for
over
> six months now.
>
>
Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Bedrock
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:58 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
>
>
> Thanks Ill get the book out
and check for continuity this week. there is
no
>
rust
>
>
> Bob
> White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at
135,000+
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
> To:
"'Bedrock'" <
bedrock@attbi.com>;
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 10:49 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Training Me
101: O2 Sensors
>
>
> > Nope, but sometimes the TPS can be
faulty, yet read correct 98% of the
> > time... You might also
check wiring harnesses for rust, continuity,
> > etc...
>
>
> > -Cody
> >
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> > Of Bedrock
> >
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:08 AM
> > To: Team3S
> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
> >
> > I
have a quick question this thread might be able to answer. My check
> >
engine
> > light comes on randomly but more in hot weather. If I goose
the gas it
> > goes
> > out. I checked the codes and the only
one is the throttle position
> > sensor. I
> > did a test on
the tps according to the manual and it checks out ok. If I
> > clear
the code it only comes back as a tps? Is there another sensor that
> >
feeds or in my case sometimes not feeding a signal to the tps resulting
>
> in a
> > code on it? Or do I really have a bad spot on my tps?
Thanks.
> >
> > Bob
> > White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original
at 135,000+
> >
> >
> >
> > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#938
***************************************