Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, August 26
2002 Volume 01 : Number
936
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 25 Aug 2002 11:11:49 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ignition switch and tobacco smell in air vents
The smell is
probably mold. Most AC units develope it sooner or later. The
solution is
either simple or complex - your choice. You can have a dealer
open up the
evaporator box under the dash and clean it. (very complicated
and expensive),
or you can spray a healthy quantifty of lysol spray into the
recirc air
opening near the footwells. You may need to do this once a week
for a couple
of weeks, but it works pretty well. Bear in mind that until the
lysol works
its way out of the system it will cause a pretty strong smell on
its own. I
have done this method myself on several cars and trucks and it
works well. If
you do it in the winter it works even better because the mold
is pretty well
controlled by cold weather anyway. Good luck and please
report your
results.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimberly Byrd"
<
kimbyrd@webtv.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 24, 2002 5:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: ignition switch and
tobacco smell in air vents
| Some of you wanted to know what my
problem was with the car not
| starting. When I would turn the key to
start the car, nothing would
| happen. No noise, nothing. I would have to
turn the key 8-10 times
| before it would finally start. It was the ignition
switch. Thanks for
| all of those that offered advice.
|
| Now, I have
a new problem. It's not anything serious, but I would like
| to know what it
is. I am very migraine prone and am sensitive to smells.
| If I run my air
conditioner for say 10 minutes, there is a smell that
| comes out like pipe
tobacco. I would like to get rid of the smell. My
| car is a daily driver and
the smell makes me sicker if I have a
| headache. Any ideas as to what it is?
I have owned the car for a year
| and I didn't notice it last summer. Thanks,
Kim
|
|
| *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 12:07:20
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ignition switch and tobacco smell in air vents
There is a product [
dealers use it ] that you spray into the evaporator to
eliminate the smell.
It's a foam that fills the evaporator box and then dries
out. You need access
to the inlet to the evaporator, drill a small hole, turn
on the fan inject
foam until the box is full turn off the A/C and let it dry.
Dealer probably
charges a fortune, I'll see if I can find the name of
the
product.
Jim
Berry
========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
> The
smell is probably mold. Most AC units develope it sooner or later. The
>
solution is either simple or complex - your choice. You can have a
dealer
> open up the evaporator box under the dash and clean it. (very
complicated
> and expensive), or you can spray a healthy quantifty of
lysol spray into the
> recirc air opening near the footwells. You may need
to do this once a week
> for a couple of weeks, but it works pretty well.
Bear in mind that until the
> lysol works its way out of the system it
will cause a pretty strong smell on
> its own. I have done this method
myself on several cars and trucks and it
> works well. If you do it in the
winter it works even better because the mold
> is pretty well controlled
by cold weather anyway. Good luck and please
> report your
results.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 15:47:32
EDT
From:
Jawscardodger@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
Rear Head Removal ?
I have some bent valves I got the front head.
Now I need to take the rear
head off. Does anybody have any tips, tricks or
instructions for removing the
rear head? Is there anything I should check or
replace why the heads are off?
Thanks Jim
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 13:49:09
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ignition switch and tobacco smell in air vents
Here is a possible
solution
http://www.properautocare.com/wuracheatsys.html-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimberly Byrd" <
kimbyrd@webtv.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 24, 2002 5:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: ignition switch and
tobacco smell in air vents
| Some of you wanted to know what my
problem was with the car not
| starting. When I would turn the key to
start the car, nothing would
| happen. No noise, nothing. I would have to
turn the key 8-10 times
| before it would finally start. It was the ignition
switch. Thanks for
| all of those that offered advice.
|
| Now, I have
a new problem. It's not anything serious, but I would like
| to know what it
is. I am very migraine prone and am sensitive to smells.
| If I run my air
conditioner for say 10 minutes, there is a smell that
| comes out like pipe
tobacco. I would like to get rid of the smell. My
| car is a daily driver and
the smell makes me sicker if I have a
| headache. Any ideas as to what it is?
I have owned the car for a year
| and I didn't notice it last summer. Thanks,
Kim
|
|
| *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 21:17:00
-0400
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <
wayne@wbwebsol.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Track trailer and hitch help
Ok guys, today marked my first whole year
doing autocross, and I've got 1st
place in my last 4 events. I feel
pretty good about this stuff, and now I'm
wanting to find a track trailer and
find out how difficult it is to hook up
a hitch to our cars. I have a
97 3000GT base model, and I'll be purchasing
new wheels and tires for street
use, and using my current stock wheels for
the race rubber!
Can anyone
point me in the right place to find what I'm looking for? I
think I've
found the trailer I want, I think a 4' x 4' should do the trick.
Now, about
the hitch, any suggestions?
Thanks for all your help!
Wayne
97
3000 Base (Black)
TEC front strut bar
Cusco rear strut bar
K&N
FIPK
Intrax springs
Bridgestone PP S03's
see my car at
www.cardomain.com/id/169bsp***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 19:03:54
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Track trailer and hitch help
I've got a hitch on my 93 [ I
can't find the pictures of it ]. I ordered it through
U-Haul a couple
of years ago --- I think it was about $180 installed but they
couldn't figure
out how to install it. You have to remove the tie down hooks in
the rear of
the car and remove a couple of the muffler hanger bolts [ I think ].
It's a
1" receiver so with out the draw bar it's almost invisible. It's made for
the
car so the fit is near perfect.
The company that manufactures them
has a web site but I can't remember the
name --- a search for hitches should
give you the company.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <
wayne@wbwebsol.com>
To: "3sracers"
<
3sracers@www.speedtoys.com>;
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Starnet3/s" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Sunday, August 25, 2002 6:17 PM
Subject: 3S-Racers: Track trailer and hitch
help
> Ok guys, today marked my first whole year doing autocross,
and I've got 1st
> place in my last 4 events. I feel pretty good
about this stuff, and now I'm
> wanting to find a track trailer and find
out how difficult it is to hook up
> a hitch to our cars. I have a
97 3000GT base model, and I'll be purchasing
> new wheels and tires for
street use, and using my current stock wheels for
> the race
rubber!
>
> Can anyone point me in the right place to find what I'm
looking for? I
> think I've found the trailer I want, I think a 4' x
4' should do the trick.
> Now, about the hitch, any suggestions?
>
> Thanks for all your help!
>
> Wayne
> 97 3000 Base
(Black)
> TEC front strut bar
> Cusco rear strut bar
> K&N
FIPK
> Intrax springs
> Bridgestone PP S03's
> see my car at
www.cardomain.com/id/169bsp>
>
> --
> To sub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'subscribe 3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'unsubscribe 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high
performance cars."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 02:08:27
-0400
From: "Bedrock" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
I have a quick question this thread
might be able to answer. My check engine
light comes on randomly but more in
hot weather. If I goose the gas it goes
out. I checked the codes and the only
one is the throttle position sensor. I
did a test on the tps according to the
manual and it checks out ok. If I
clear the code it only comes back as a tps?
Is there another sensor that
feeds or in my case sometimes not feeding a
signal to the tps resulting in a
code on it? Or do I really have a bad spot
on my tps? Thanks.
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at
135,000+
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 21:49:07
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
Nope, but sometimes the TPS can be
faulty, yet read correct 98% of the
time... You might also check wiring
harnesses for rust, continuity,
etc...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bedrock
Sent: Tuesday,
August 20, 2002 1:08 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Training Me 101:
O2 Sensors
I have a quick question this thread might be able to answer.
My check
engine
light comes on randomly but more in hot weather. If I
goose the gas it
goes
out. I checked the codes and the only one is the
throttle position
sensor. I
did a test on the tps according to the manual
and it checks out ok. If I
clear the code it only comes back as a tps? Is
there another sensor that
feeds or in my case sometimes not feeding a signal
to the tps resulting
in a
code on it? Or do I really have a bad spot on my
tps? Thanks.
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at
135,000+
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 02:57:48
-0400
From: "Bedrock" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
Thanks Ill get the book out and check
for continuity this week. there is no
rust
Bob
White/Red 91
RT/TT, Original at 135,000+
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody"
<
overclck@satx.rr.com>
To:
"'Bedrock'" <
bedrock@attbi.com>;
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, August 25, 2002 10:49 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Training Me 101: O2
Sensors
> Nope, but sometimes the TPS can be faulty, yet read
correct 98% of the
> time... You might also check wiring harnesses
for rust, continuity,
> etc...
>
> -Cody
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Bedrock
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:08 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
>
> I have a quick question this thread
might be able to answer. My check
> engine
> light comes on randomly
but more in hot weather. If I goose the gas it
> goes
> out. I
checked the codes and the only one is the throttle position
> sensor.
I
> did a test on the tps according to the manual and it checks out ok. If
I
> clear the code it only comes back as a tps? Is there another sensor
that
> feeds or in my case sometimes not feeding a signal to the tps
resulting
> in a
> code on it? Or do I really have a bad spot on my
tps? Thanks.
>
> Bob
> White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at
135,000+
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 23:30:41
EDT
From:
GoblinyTwin@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Clutch booster problem..
Need the answer really bad, can't drive my 94 TT
at all !!!!!
I have a little problem in adjusting the clutch booster on
my 94 stealth TT,
and people in the shop want to charge me a little fortune
for it. I put a
new clutch booster in my car and I need to adjust the
clearance between the
booster push rod and the master cylinder piston.
I do have CD manual that
tells me how to adjust it, and I do use digital
calipers (micro meter ), but
for some reason I can't get it right. The
fire wall and the bracket that the
booster is mounted on is confusing me
when I calculate the measurements. So,
I guess my question is do you
have any tips and/or advise on how to do it.
Also, can this cause the
clutch to be very stiff. When I bought the booster
from a Mitsubishi
dealer they told me that it comes pre adjusted so I put it
in without and
adjustments. The clutch had a lot of free play and the
booster push
rod would go in about 2 in. without resistance (no hydraulic
pressure on the
push rod ). After that it would get hard and clutch pedal
would go in
about 3 in (clutch pedal stroke about 3 in.) and hit the floor.
Shifting in the 1st and 2nd gear would be hard. I tried to adjust the
free
play and the clevis pin play on the push rod and the position
switch.
(Turned them all the way up, did not help)
It would
be really helpful if someone could answer my question..
Thanks
Vedran.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 00:48:56
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Anti-sieze on wheel studs - TESTED ;-)
I have been rotating the wheels
today and changing the brake pads. I have
been lazily following the
discussion about the anti-seize on wheel studs
and the torque change due to
that. I have not used a torque wrench until I
bought it for some engine work
last year. Engines are weird animals - they
have really strange torque
specifications that are often for serious
reasons, but that is a different
story... I stripped and snapped many bolts
in my life and developed a
"calibrated" hand so to speak.
I thought that putting anti-seize on wheel
studs was a great idea. So I
applied plenty of anti-seize and decided to
torque using the torque wrench
to 90 lbs (just because). I FELT SCARED
WHILE I WAS TRYING TO APPLY 90
ft-lbs TO IT. I felt like if I turn it
another 5 degrees the studs would
snap. Mind you, I used to torque them to
almost 105 ft-lbs with dry
threads. So, I guess, 80% of the recommended
torque is the right number.
Next time I won't torque those lug nuts past 85
ft-lbs.
Philip
At 11:58 8/23/2002, glenn vrfour wrote:
>The
previous discussion was concerning the reduction
>in friction between the
studs and lug nuts when using
>an anti-sieze compound on the studs
resulting in an
>increase in the clamping force.
>
>According
to James at STL, when using their product
>you reduce the torque spec for
the lugs by 20 percent.
>
>According to stealth316.com (thanks
Jeff). Lug nuts
>should be torqued to 88-103
ft/lb.
>
>So, IN MY OPINION lug nuts should be torqued
to
>80ft/lbs when using an anti-sieze
compound.
>
>Glenn
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 00:51:35
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Just venting...
Now a little bit on a different subject. I have had very
bad luck with
vendors recently so I have to vent. I will vent about all of
them at once,
so that it is fair to each of them.
Bought Stillen pads
from Dynamic Racing and wanted to swap them today but
the rear pads are
wrong.
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Wrong_pad.JPG
Are these 1st gen rear
pads? I have a 2nd gen car.
Before that I
bought R4-S pads from Porterfield and the front pads did not
fit. I was told
it was due to necessary cost cutting.
Bought the AEM ECU from Altered
Atmosphere while I was at the NG. They said
that they had the calibration
file for my 550 ccm injectors. It took them
nine days to send that file to
me (while Mike M. was getting ready to beat
records). Finally I got it. I
compared it to the stock file that came on
the enclosed CD and it is
identical except the fuel map values are
*EXACTLY* 25% lower. The ignition
map is a little more aggressive than the
one that came stock, but now I have
no idea where that map is from. I could
have made that kind of "calibration"
myself in two minutes. And, actually,
I did, except mine was 26% lower.
Also, the promised EGR block-off plates
are not ready yet.
The AEM
ECU itself was also not without a problem. Injectors 1,2,6 are not
firing.
No signal. Engine runs on three cylinders. The three injectors that
are
firing are firing at non-stock crank angles and at double the
frequency. I
will call AEM on Monday and they will probably tell me to send
the unit back
to them or suggest some fix.
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Stock%20and%20AEM%20injectors%20firing.gifWhew!
Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 22:02:33
-0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Just venting...
I've heard that the latest calibration on AEM's website
fixes alot of
problems. The one that's on the CD is supposed to be a piece o'
junk.
Trevor
96 R/T TT -
11.82@116.1
on 93 octane
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov"
<
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday,
August 25, 2002 9:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: Just venting...
> Now
a little bit on a different subject. I have had very bad luck with
>
vendors recently so I have to vent. I will vent about all of them at
once,
> so that it is fair to each of them.
>
> Bought Stillen
pads from Dynamic Racing and wanted to swap them today but
> the rear pads
are wrong.
>
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Wrong_pad.JPG
Are these 1st gen
rear
> pads? I have a 2nd gen car.
>
>
Before that I bought R4-S pads from Porterfield and the front pads did
not
> fit. I was told it was due to necessary cost
cutting.
>
> Bought the AEM ECU from Altered Atmosphere while I was
at the NG. They
said
> that they had the calibration file for my 550
ccm injectors. It took them
> nine days to send that file to me (while
Mike M. was getting ready to beat
> records). Finally I got it. I compared
it to the stock file that came on
> the enclosed CD and it is identical
except the fuel map values are
> *EXACTLY* 25% lower. The ignition map is
a little more aggressive than the
> one that came stock, but now I have no
idea where that map is from. I
could
> have made that kind of
"calibration" myself in two minutes. And, actually,
> I did, except mine
was 26% lower. Also, the promised EGR block-off plates
> are not ready
yet.
>
> The AEM ECU itself was also not without a problem.
Injectors 1,2,6 are not
> firing. No signal. Engine runs on three
cylinders. The three injectors
that
> are firing are firing at
non-stock crank angles and at double the
> frequency. I will call AEM on
Monday and they will probably tell me to
send
> the unit back to them
or suggest some fix.
>
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Stock%20and%20AEM%20injectors%20firing.gif
>
>
Whew!
>
> Philip
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 01:05:41
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Just venting...
Just ran a comparison routine on that
calibration. It is identical to the
one that came on my CD. I believe my
injector issue is a hardware issue
though.
Philip
At 01:02
8/26/2002, Trevor James wrote:
>I've heard that the latest calibration on
AEM's website fixes alot of
>problems. The one that's on the CD is
supposed to be a piece o' junk.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 06:42:05
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Just venting... (rear brake pads)
> Bought Stillen pads from
Dynamic Racing and wanted to swap
> them today but the rear pads are
wrong.
>
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Wrong_pad.JPG>
Are these 1st gen rear pads? I have a 2nd gen car.
Yes, they look like
the AP532 pads rather than the AP631 pads (to use
Porterfield's
numbers). As I mentioned in a recent post, my car is a
2nd gen but
takes the pads you received, presumably because it was
manufactured before
the switchover in mid '93?
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire,
England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 01:02:34
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch booster problem..
Your pedal shouldn't get hard if the
booster is working properly. Check
your one-way valve on the vacuum
line to the clutch booster.
I would try to take up the free play by
adjusting your clutch pedal. It is
easy to adjust. Just loosen
the lock nut and then adjust the pedal by
turning the adjustment screw.
Much easier to do than taking the clutch
master cylinder off and making
adjustments that way.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 07:38:30
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Anti-sieze on wheel studs - TESTED ;-)
I just want to "echo for
emphasis" that anti-sieze is like Brylcreem: a
little dab'll do
ya.
I've been following this thread closely as well, because in my old
job
anti-sieze was a critical part of the assembly process. We had a
firm
conduct an exhaustive engineering analysis for us on what flavors to
use,
how much to use, and the resulting torque values to use on the
bolts. I
remember it was a source of very passionate debate (kinda like
here).
I'll try to find a copy of that report, and summarize it to the
group.
However, I'll put up two big caveats:
1. The study was executed
about 10 years ago, for a project I haven't work
on in 4 years, so I may not
be able to get my hands on it.
2. The application was very special materials
(kinda like Rich's
"unobtainium") in a highly corrosive environment, so the
results may not be
directly applicable.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth
ES
PS to Rich: We have two of those reactor containment vessels on our
site,
and you're right: watching them stretch the studs to spin the nuts down
is a
remarkable process. In our case, the did it by putting special
ribs on the
ends of the studs, then grabbing the ribs and pulling a couple
zillion
pounds of force on them. That was one expensive wrench!
(I can see the
headlines now: "Feds pay millions for a wrench". Stupid
media...)
- ----- Original Message -----
[snip]
I thought that
putting anti-seize on wheel studs was a great idea. So I
applied plenty of
anti-seize and decided to torque using the torque
wrench
[snip]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 07:46:37
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anti-sieze on wheel studs - TESTED ;-)
>
>PS to
Rich: We have two of those reactor containment vessels on our site,
>and
you're right: watching them stretch the studs to spin the nuts down is
a
>remarkable process. In our case, the did it by putting special
ribs on the
>ends of the studs, then grabbing the ribs and pulling a
couple zillion
>pounds of force on them. That was one expensive
wrench! (I can see the
>headlines now: "Feds pay millions for a
wrench". Stupid media...)
>
Omigawd! Somebody remembers!
I've
done lots of weird stuff in my life, and it's nice to have somebody confirm it
so the group knows I'm not making it up or fantasizing.
Wish there were
some old NASA graybeards on here, so we could swap lies about old Apollo
missions and missile launches. There was the time the radars locked on the
signal from a UFO coming over the pole and...oops. Wrong list for that kind of
story.
Rich
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 12:25:50
-0400
From: "Bedrock" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
Sounds like a Wednesday job.
thanks
Bob
White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at 135,000+
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
To: "'Bedrock'" <
bedrock@attbi.com>
Sent: Monday,
August 26, 2002 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Training Me 101: O2
Sensors
> I have had the same problem with the TPS. Remove
the TPS and take a hair
> dryer and soften the glue seal on the
face. The seal can then be removed
> and there is a snap in plastic
cover over a potentiometer. This pot has
> four leads soldered to a
cir board, the leads are the plug in pins for the
> connector. You
can resolder the pins as the origional solder has probably
> given
up. You will likely see a crack around one or all of the solder
>
joints. Snap the cover back inplace and cover the plate with
black
silicon
> to keep dirt out and retain the stock appearance.
Mine has been OK for
over
> six months now.
>
>
Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Bedrock
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:58 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
>
>
> Thanks Ill get the book out
and check for continuity this week. there is
no
>
rust
>
>
> Bob
> White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original at
135,000+
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
> To:
"'Bedrock'" <
bedrock@attbi.com>;
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 10:49 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Training Me
101: O2 Sensors
>
>
> > Nope, but sometimes the TPS can be
faulty, yet read correct 98% of the
> > time... You might also
check wiring harnesses for rust, continuity,
> > etc...
>
>
> > -Cody
> >
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> > Of Bedrock
> >
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:08 AM
> > To: Team3S
> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Training Me 101: O2 Sensors
> >
> > I
have a quick question this thread might be able to answer. My check
> >
engine
> > light comes on randomly but more in hot weather. If I goose
the gas it
> > goes
> > out. I checked the codes and the only
one is the throttle position
> > sensor. I
> > did a test on
the tps according to the manual and it checks out ok. If I
> > clear
the code it only comes back as a tps? Is there another sensor that
> >
feeds or in my case sometimes not feeding a signal to the tps resulting
>
> in a
> > code on it? Or do I really have a bad spot on my tps?
Thanks.
> >
> > Bob
> > White/Red 91 RT/TT, Original
at 135,000+
> >
> >
> >
> > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 09:07:20
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Police radars
Doug I missed this reply over the
weekend..... My car is a white 95
Pontiac GA it was dirty (hadn't
been washed in about 2 weeks) No bra. The
cruiser, that's a different
story it shined like it had just come off the
showroom floor and it didn't
have a bra on it either.
The troopers tell me with laser they don't aim
at the body of the car but
instead the headlights or the front license plate
(larger targets with good
reflectivity)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: dakken [SMTP:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
> Sent:
Friday, August 23, 2002 9:14 PM
> To: Furman, Russell;
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com;
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Police radars
>
> > Laser pointed at me didn't pick up
until I was basically on top of the
> damn
> > thing, however if
pointed at another target (in this case a trooper's
> > cruiser) I
spotted it almost 1.5 miles out.
>
> What kind of car were you
driving? What color was the car? Was it
> recently
>
waxed or did it have a layer of dust on it? Did you have a bra?
How
> about
> your car, did it have a bra too? =)
>
> Just curious. I have read that all of those things will affect a
IR
> radar's
> detection range.
>
>
>
Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
>
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 09:27:12
US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Anti-sieze on wheel studs - TESTED ;-)
"Wish there were some old NASA
graybeards on here, . . . "
Rich
How do you know there aren't - maybe
white doesn't count?
Older Bob
'99VR-4
Kennedy Space Center,
FL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 08:28:06
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
IN MY EXPERIENCE,
(five years four VR4's and 32 road course events) there is
absolutely no harm
in torquing lug nuts on stock 17" 1st and 2nd gen wheels
and Volk TE37 17"
wheels to 90 ftlbs WITH anti-seize compound. IN MY
OPINION, if you
tourque them to 80 ftlbs with antiseize, you should go back
and verify torque
after driving for a while.
Chuck Willis
The previous discussion
was concerning the reduction
in friction between the studs and lug nuts when
using
an anti-sieze compound on the studs resulting in an
increase in the
clamping force.
According to James at STL, when using their
product
you reduce the torque spec for the lugs by 20
percent.
According to stealth316.com (thanks Jeff). Lug
nuts
should be torqued to 88-103 ft/lb.
So, IN MY OPINION lug nuts
should be torqued to
80ft/lbs when using an anti-sieze
compound.
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The
information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are
not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 09:53:14
-0400
From: "Mannah, Zinnah" <
ZMANNAH@imf.org>
Subject: Team3S: Front
Drive Shaft drop
Today my front drive shaft fell off while driving. The
U join is stall in place but the shaft front end is damage. My questions
are;
* Is there a after market vendor to replace the shaft
* Do I send
it away to be repair
* Can I get one from a savage yard
* please do not
tell me to contact my dealersh@#
Thanks
Zee
91 RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 13:58:22
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
>> AIR COMPRESSES VERY EASILY
UNLIKE FLUIDS ........
>> NOT A PROBLEM FOR EVEN A LOWER POWERED
ENGINE LIKE A BIKE.
Not that easily! Try blowing into a hose attached to
a boost guage or similar
device. Tell us how much pressure you can produce
with your lungs. It always
requires force (and power) to compress air.
Besides, liquid fluids do not
compress at all! I am not defending ETP's hp
increase arguments (nor the
merits of twin cylinders moving together instead
of oppositely), just
commenting on the statement concerning
compression.
>> CREATING A VACUUM IN THE PAN LOWERS PRESSURE
THROUGHOUT
>> BOTTOM END. WHY DOES THAT MAKE THE RINGS MORE
EFECTIVE?
>From what I understand, some of the sealing ability
of rings occurs because
pressure in the cylinder gets behind the rings and
forces them away from the
piston and onto the cylinder walls. I would
*guess* that a greater pressure
differential across the rings (top to
bottom) might improve this process.
Again, I am not defending ETP's
statement's.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
To: "xwing"
<
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Cc: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 24, 2002 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Krankvent hp
increase?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 08:58:30
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Track trailer and hitch help
try
"Drawtight". they pretty much make hitches for
everything.
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The information
in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are not the
intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 10:09:00
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Anti-sieze on wheel studs - TESTED ;-)
Wait til Bob Forrest
himself wakes up and kicks you old behinds for
off-topic conversations,
rocket scientists you, LOL!
;-)
Philip
-
-------------------------------------------
"Wish there were some old
NASA graybeards on here, . . . "
Rich
- -------------
How do you know
there aren't - maybe white doesn't count?
Older Bob
'99VR-4
Kennedy
Space Center, FL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 16:15:12
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anti-sieze on wheel studs - TESTED ;-)
I'm awake much earlier
:) So, please be specific in what you are posting to
the list and declare a
post OFF TOPIC if the topic starts to fluctuate.
Thanks for your
help
Roger for the Admins
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Monday, August 26, 2002 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Anti-sieze on wheel
studs - TESTED ;-)
>
> Wait til Bob Forrest himself wakes up
and kicks you old behinds for
> off-topic conversations, rocket scientists
you, LOL!
> ;-)
>
> Philip
>
>
-------------------------------------------
>
> "Wish there were
some old NASA graybeards on here, . . . "
> Rich
>
-------------
> How do you know there aren't - maybe white doesn't
count?
> Older Bob
> '99VR-4
> Kennedy Space Center,
FL
>
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 07:29:18
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
Trailer hitch
below is a copy of an old email which lists the
manufacturer and part number of
the
hitch.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: <
jczoom@iname.com>; "Steve Lasher RdAtl"
<
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>;
"Stealth-3000GT" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
opentracking@topica.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 21, 2000 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trailer
hitch
> I have the same hitch on my car --- U-Haul sells and
installs them. I think the
> price was $190 for the hitch and drawbar
installed. They had trouble with the
> installation at first --- the hitch
attaches where the tie down hooks are installed
> and the hooks must be
removed first.
>
> Jim Berry
>
==================================================
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: John T. Christian <
jczoom@geocities.com>
> To:
Steve Lasher RdAtl <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>;
Stealth-3000GT <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
>
<
opentracking@topica.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 10:27 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Trailer
hitch
>
>
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > The
trailer hitch for my Stealth TT came from ACE in Canonsburgh PA 412
> >
873-7900.
> >
> > It is a D'Lan 247222 with a price tag of
$179. You'll need a tongue
> > which is probably the D18001 for
$25 and a 1&7/8 ball for $10.95.
> >
> > They hook to my
trailer from Harbor Freight 800 444-3353 price of $170.
> >
>
> You can see the trailer on my website below.
> >
> > Hope
this helps.
> > John
> >
> > --
> >
JCZoooM 93 TT
12.46@109Mph
Now with Porsche brakes & Supra rotors
> > Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com> >
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538>
>
> > ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 09:15:48
-0600
From: "Nate Metzler" <
nmetzler@australearn.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Radar Detectors - The old fashioned way
Just a follow-up on the
radar detector discussion. I've seen a similar set
up here in CO with
the construction worker/radar cop with 10 of his buddies
waiting 1/2 mile
down. Except this was just an "end of the month we need to
hit our
quotas" set-up.
Just wondering about the legalities of this....but my
buddies and I thought
we'd foil their fun and drew up a huge 4' x 4' sign
"Speed Trap Ahead - Less
than 45" and posted it 'bout 1/2 mile before the
speed gun. You've never
seen so many happy motorists waving on their
way by...took the popo's nearly
an hour to figure out what the heck was going
on and in the mean time they
didn't pull over one law-abiding
motorist. Even the female officer that
finally found the sign and
ripped it down couldn't keep the laughter off her
face. Course we were
camped out in hidden observation point a ways away..
Again just wondering if
that's something you can legally get by with.
Nate Metzler
Denver,
CO
No Stealth/3S yet..
- ---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 11:25:12
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Radar Detectors - The old fashioned way
Fortunately or
Unfortunately (depending on your opinion), This is legal due
to the fact that
are not entrapping you into to speeding they are simply
setting up a "sting"
to get motorists.
I personally feel it is a good idea CT loses a
DOT worker every other year
due to people speeding through the work zones,
nevermind the cops that are
working the job are also at high
risk.
Russ F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Nate Metzler [SMTP:nmetzler@australearn.org]
> Sent: Monday, August 26,
2002 11:16 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Radar Detectors - The old fashioned way
>
> Just
wondering about the legalities of this....but my buddies and I
>
thought
> we'd foil their fun and drew up a huge 4' x 4' sign "Speed Trap
Ahead -
> Less
> than 45" and posted it 'bout 1/2 mile before the
speed gun. You've never
> seen so many happy motorists waving on
their way by...took the popo's
> nearly
> an hour to figure out what
the heck was going on and in the mean time they
> didn't pull over one
law-abiding motorist. Even the female officer that
> finally
found the sign and ripped it down couldn't keep the laughter off
>
her
> face. Course we were camped out in hidden observation point a
ways away..
> Again just wondering if that's something you can legally get
by with.
>
> Nate Metzler
> Denver, CO
> No Stealth/3S
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This
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the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
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immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies.
==============================================================================
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 08:30:59
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Police radars
Folks...
While we're wandering into a
non-technical, non-3KGT/Stealth topic, I'll
add two observations:
1.
The Rocky Mountain Radar "jamming" device has been proven to NOT work
on top
of which they have a clause in their advertisement that limits
their
liability to paying the fine for tickets up to 10 mph over the
speed limit.
For many (most?) of us, that would be worthless. Here in
Oregon, the State
Highway Patrol doesn't even bother with us unless
we're driving over 15
beyond the speed limit (I'm speaking of freeways
here, not residential
surface streets).
2. NONE of these devices do a BIT of good with laser
ticketing outside
of informing you that you are about to receive a ticket. I
have a
Valentine One and have received excellent notification that I have
just
been hit by lidar. The ticketing officers have been "kind" enough
to
show me exactly how they use the guns, they literally have
crosshairs
like a rifle scope. There is no mistaking which car they are
targeting.
I also hoped to win in court because the officer that wrote me the
most
recent lidar ticket was not the one who was on the end of the gun,
but
nope, they both showed up for court, even after two setovers (your
best
bet for beating a ticket). Naturally, being "public servants"
they're
unionized, which means they get paid overtime for showing up for
court
hearings, which they rarely miss. On top of which, speeding tickets
are
easy revenue generators for the state, city, or county, much less
work
than busting meth labs, and very little danger of getting shot at.
Why
track down criminals when you can get paid for pulling over
speeders?
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: anscray [mailto:anscray@attbi.com]
Sent: Friday, August
23, 2002 5:45 PM
To: glenn vrfour;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Police radars
This fake construction site crap must be a
fad.. Here in
Jacksonville
and St.Augustine Florida, FHP is doing
the same thing.. This is of
course
also due to a couple FHP officers
being hit while handing out tickets..
Im hearing about some sort
of stealthing device on the radio quite a
bit..
It sends out all kinds of
signals to confuse the radar gun. Cant
remember
the name, but
supposedly they will pay the ticket if you get hit while
using
their
product.. The real question is will they pay the
insurance
increase?
My opinion is that they hand out enough
tickets w/o creating more
trickery
to snuff the occasional 80mph in a
70mph zone.. It just seems that they
could be doing something much more
productive..
Scott
94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 08:32:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clear out the DOT, the darwin way....
You think its a good idea they lose
a worker every
year or two? Kinda like a darwin thing?
"I personally feel
it is a good idea CT loses a DOT
worker every other year..."
Or do you
mean:
You thinks its a good idea, <--(comma)--> BECAUSE DOT
loses a
worker every year or two?
hehehe
Roger L
F15DOC
- --- "Furman,
Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
wrote:
> Fortunately or Unfortunately (depending on your
> opinion),
This is legal due
> to the fact that are not entrapping you into
to
> speeding they are simply
> setting up a "sting" to get
motorists.
>
> I personally feel it is a good idea CT loses
a DOT
> worker every other year
> due to people speeding through the
work zones,
> nevermind the cops that are
> working the job are also
at high risk.
>
> Russ F
> CT
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Nate Metzler
[SMTP:nmetzler@australearn.org]
> > Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 11:16
AM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Radar Detectors - The old
> fashioned way
> >
> > Just wondering about the legalities of this....but
> my
buddies and I
> > thought
> > we'd foil their fun and drew up
a huge 4' x 4'
> sign "Speed Trap Ahead -
> > Less
> >
than 45" and posted it 'bout 1/2 mile before the
> speed gun. You've
never
> > seen so many happy motorists waving on their way
>
by...took the popo's
> > nearly
> > an hour to figure out what
the heck was going on
> and in the mean time they
> > didn't pull
over one law-abiding motorist. Even
> the female officer
that
> > finally found the sign and ripped it down couldn't
>
keep the laughter off
> > her
> > face. Course we were
camped out in hidden
> observation point a ways away..
> > Again
just wondering if that's something you can
> legally get by with.
>
>
> > Nate Metzler
> > Denver, CO
> > No
Stealth/3S
>
>
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
This e-mail transmission may contain information
> that is proprietary,
privileged and/or confidential
> and is intended exclusively for the
person(s) to
> whom it is addressed. Any use, copying, retention
or
> disclosure by any person other than the intended
> recipient or
the intended recipient's designees is
> strictly prohibited. If you have
received this
> message in error, please notify the sender
>
immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies.
>
>
>
==============================================================================
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 11:50:55
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: I Hate NY......roads
My car's suspension was perfectly fine until
a weekend of driving on NY
roadways. I wonder who the bright engineers are
who thought putting drainage
grates that are like 3 inches below the asphalt
level in the middle of the
road was a good idea. Everytime you go over on of
those suckers, it feels
like you just went over a big pothole at 70mph.
And it's very hard to drive
around them unless you're on the "slow-people"
side of the road. Now my
driver's side suspension has a nice little "thump"
noise everytime I go over
a bump. Any idea what it might be?
Update on
my smoke situation:
I've driven the car like 500 miles since I first noticed
large quantities of
smoke out the tailpipes. At that time, it was
already like 1/4 quart low on
oil. I filled it back up and it seems to be
holding there for now. I don't
see the large smoke plumes any more but
there's still oil burning somewhere
cuz I can smell it everytime I stop at a
light. After it idles for more than
1 minute, a little whitish/bluish smoke
can be seen. It has new short block
and new valve with new seals so I doubt
it can be either. No oil in the
y-pipe (haven't checked downpipe) and turbos
still boost to max stock
setting. Suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 12:25:53
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Trailer hitch
John Christian's website below was blown away one
day and this is the
new webpage.
http://www.geocities.com/jczoom_619/-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
Sent: Monday,
August 26, 2002 10:29
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
3sracers@speedtoys.combelow is
a copy of an old email which lists the manufacturer and part
number of the
hitch.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John T. Christian
<
jczoom@geocities.com>
>
To: Stealth-3000GT <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 10:27 PM
>
> >
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 18:23:17
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clear out the DOT, the darwin way.... ADMIN MSG
Please go on
with this non-technical discussion OFFLINE and email each other
privately
?
Thanks for helping us keeing the quality up !
Roger for the
Admins
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Ludwig" <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday,
August 26, 2002 5:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Clear out the DOT, the darwin
way....
> You think its a good idea they lose a worker
every
> year or two? Kinda like a darwin thing?
> "I personally feel
it is a good idea CT loses a DOT
> worker every other
year..."
>
> Or do you mean:
> You thinks its a good idea,
<--(comma)--> BECAUSE DOT
> loses a worker every year or
two?
> hehehe
> Roger L
> F15DOC
>
> --- "Furman,
Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
wrote:
> > Fortunately or Unfortunately (depending on your
> >
opinion), This is legal due
> > to the fact that are not entrapping you
into to
> > speeding they are simply
> > setting up a "sting"
to get motorists.
> >
> > I personally feel it is a good idea
CT loses a DOT
> > worker every other year
> > due to people
speeding through the work zones,
> > nevermind the cops that
are
> > working the job are also at high risk.
> >
>
> Russ F
> > CT
> >
> > > -----Original
Message-----
> > > From: Nate Metzler
[SMTP:nmetzler@australearn.org]
> > > Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002
11:16 AM
> > > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: Team3S: Radar Detectors - The old
> > fashioned
way
> > >
> > > Just wondering about the legalities of
this....but
> > my buddies and I
> > > thought
> >
> we'd foil their fun and drew up a huge 4' x 4'
> > sign "Speed
Trap Ahead -
> > > Less
> > > than 45" and posted it
'bout 1/2 mile before the
> > speed gun. You've never
>
> > seen so many happy motorists waving on their way
> >
by...took the popo's
> > > nearly
> > > an hour to
figure out what the heck was going on
> > and in the mean time
they
> > > didn't pull over one law-abiding motorist.
Even
> > the female officer that
> > > finally found the
sign and ripped it down couldn't
> > keep the laughter off
> >
> her
> > > face. Course we were camped out in
hidden
> > observation point a ways away..
> > > Again just
wondering if that's something you can
> > legally get by with.
>
> >
> > > Nate Metzler
> > > Denver, CO
>
> > No Stealth/3S
> >
> >
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
> > This e-mail transmission may contain information
> >
that is proprietary, privileged and/or confidential
> > and is intended
exclusively for the person(s) to
> > whom it is addressed. Any use,
copying, retention or
> > disclosure by any person other than the
intended
> > recipient or the intended recipient's designees is
>
> strictly prohibited. If you have received this
> > message in
error, please notify the sender
> > immediately by return e-mail and
delete all copies.
> >
> >
>
>
>
============================================================================
==
>
>
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
>
http://finance.yahoo.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 11:27:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Please help me find the antiroll sensor in CAPS!
Dear
Friends,
I was unable to find the anti-roll sensor for my ECS in CAPS,
although it is
clearly shown in my service manual under the steering column
cowling. Can
somebody direct me to the right place?
Chuck
Willis
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The information in
this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are not the
intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 12:37:58
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Please help me find the antiroll sensor in CAPS!
Chuck
Try 54-610
---- that's 5 pages deep and has a bunch of sensors.
I'm not sure which one
your looking for but it looks like a good
starting
point.
Jim
berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 26, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: Team3S: Please help me find the
antiroll sensor in CAPS!
> Dear Friends,
>
> I was
unable to find the anti-roll sensor for my ECS in CAPS, although it is
>
clearly shown in my service manual under the steering column cowling.
Can
> somebody direct me to the right place?
>
> Chuck
Willis
>
>
>
> ++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
> The information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
> If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
> of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
> dissemination or copying of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
> or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you have received
> this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return
> e-mail and delete this e-mail from your computer system. Thank
you.
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#936
***************************************
