Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, August 24
2002 Volume 01 : Number
934
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Aug 2002 13:30:16 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
>> Where can
I get this Krankvent?
More info on Krankvents and our PCV system
operation:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-krankvents.htmThe
PCV system consists of three hoses and a valve (plus some oil management
barriers inside the rocker covers and a passageway molded into the bottom of
the intake manifold). One hose connects the intake hose to the rear rocker
cover. Another hose connects the two rocker covers together. The third hose
connects the front rocker cover to the intake manifold. There is a one-way,
metered valve in this third hose.
When not under boost (or when
intake manifold pressure is less than
crankcase/rocker cover pressure), the
stock PCV system is designed to suck
filtered air in from the intake hose,
mix this air with the aerosol in the
crankcase, and then expel the mixture
through the PCV valve into the intake
manifold (this is for emissions not
performance). This assumes that crankcase
pressure is less than intake hose
pressure but more than intake manifold
pressure.
The PCV valve has
an internal plunger with springs that limits the airflow
based on intake
manifold vacuum (higher vacuum means *less* airflow through
the valve). When
the intake manifold is pressurized (during boost or backfire)
the PCV is (or
is supposed to be) closed and crankcase gases must exit into
the intake hose
(yes, that is why it is normal for oil to be in the intake
hose). I have
some sketches and more information on my web page above.
The Krank Vent
kit from ET Performance consists of two one-way valves that
prevent **any**
air from entering the crankcase from the intake hose or PCV
valve. This
supposedly maintains a constant partial vacuum in the crankcase,
which ET
Performance says is beneficial. This system also modifies the proper
operation of the PCV system, as no fresh air can enter the crankcase.
Additional discussion about this is in my web page above.
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
To:
"Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>; <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
August 22, 2002 5:08 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the
Krankvent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 13:36:26
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
The Krank Vent system does NOT prevent
oil from entering the intake track. ETP
claims that the partial vacuum
created in the crankcase (because *no* air is
allowed to enter) increases
engine power and response a few percent because
power is not wasted
compressing air in the crankcase on the downward piston
stroke.
More
info:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-krankvents.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "dakken"
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>;
"Team3S List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-
3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 22, 2002 8:14 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Krankvent hp
increase?
Well, I could understand in one sense. If this prevents
oil from feeding
back into the intake like it is supposed to, that would
help. Oil lowers
the octane rating of the fuel, thereby making more
room for knock, which
retards timing, which.... you get the idea.
Just my 2 hp.
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 14:00:31
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: twin turbo
Anthony,
The "pressure" from each turbo
does not add this way. If each turbo
produces "X" pressure in the intake
track, then the total pressure is
still "X" (approximately); it does not
"add" together. What does add together
is the volume (or mass) airflow. If
one turbo is producing less airflow than
the other, the other turbo would
try to make up for it. The driver may not
even notice the problem. It is the
total airflow reaching the engine that
determines the boost level (intake
manifold pressure), not the
output "pressure" of the individual
turbos.
However, the system is much more complicated than what I have
just described.
Reading articles on the internet and in reference books will
increase your
understanding. Sport Compact Car magazine ran an excellent
series of articles
on turbocharging (see the July 2001, August 2001,
September 2001, October
2001, and July 2002 issues). Roger Gerl has a very
good description of how our
turbo system works at his web site
http://www.rtec.ch/ . I also have some
articles at my web site plus links to many articles on the internet on this
subject (see my Tech Page). There is also a list of reference books
there.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Tse" <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
August 22, 2002 10:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: twin turbo
Hi Everyone:
I have a question about twin turbo. I
have a 92 VR4. It got the stock 9B
turbo about 9psi
peak. Is it a combined value ? Like 4.5psi each ?
What
could happen if they are not providing same output,
like one is kind
of broken but barely runs and the
other one is
normal.
Anthony
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 07:16:28
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
Thanks Glenn but your post
raises more questions than answers.
What do you mean "reduce the torque
on the lug nuts"?
How much reduction is there in terms of percentage or
actual figures?
Did STL think it is a good idea or a bad idea to use anti
seize on lug nuts?
"The group is right"???? Some in the group favor the
practice and some
don't. Please explain.
Is James right when he says
you need only use 80% of recommended force if
anti seize is
used.
Looking forward to your reply.
Andy
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "glenn vrfour" <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Friday, August 23, 2002 6:05 AM
Subject: Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs -
revisited.
| I wrote STL Compound Corporation, makers of
Saf-T-Eze.
| The group was correct, you reduce the torque on the
|
lug nuts when using an anti-sieze product.
|
| Glenn
| 93
VR-4
|
| --- Wendell Sherry <
jws@saftlok.com> wrote:
| > You need
only apply as little as 80% of recommended
| > torque to achiece the
|
> same clamping load. Sincerely, James
|
|
__________________________________________________
| Do You Yahoo!?
|
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
|
http://finance.yahoo.com|
| ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 11:08:09
-0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbosmart Supersonic
Not a single response to my question,
well I have one.
It took me less than 10 minutes to install!!
Remove the airbox. loosen the bypass valve under the inlet. Reach
in and twist out the hoot owl plastic bypass 'y' shaped pipe from the bypass
valve inside the airbox and retighten the hose clamp on the bypass valve( You
may want to turn it a little as it was rubbing against another line) and pull
off the vacuum hose. Disconnect the hose from the Y pipe to the factory bypass
valve, flip it around and reinstall with the end running paralel with the air
intake, take the hose clamp from the oe bypass valve, slide the weld on adapter
into the hose(nice fit)and BOV then tighten clamp. Trace the vacuum line back to
see if you have enough room to reroute it to reach the BOV(I had a manual boost
controller installed so I had plenty of line). Set the BOV according to the
spec's. I'm going to rig up a plug to fully remove the oe bypass valve but
essentially your done.
Way better acceleration, NO HOOT OWL!!!,
cool sound, 10 Min install, and should have done it when I first bought the
car.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben M. Jones
Sent: Thu
15/08/2002 6:12 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Turbosmart Supersonic
Just purchased one of
these and am wondering if I am asking for trouble in blocking of the
recirculation hose?
This BOV dumps straight out not like the
OE.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 08:58:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
The previous discussion
was concerning the reduction
in friction between the studs and lug nuts when
using
an anti-sieze compound on the studs resulting in an
increase in the
clamping force.
According to James at STL, when using their
product
you reduce the torque spec for the lugs by 20
percent.
According to stealth316.com (thanks Jeff). Lug
nuts
should be torqued to 88-103 ft/lb.
So, IN MY OPINION lug nuts
should be torqued to
80ft/lbs when using an anti-sieze
compound.
Glenn
- --- Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
Thanks Glenn but your post raises more questions
> than answers.
>
> What do you mean "reduce the torque on the lug
> nuts"?
>
<cut for digest
members>
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 11:59:51
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
I contacted Loctite
(Catherine Scoville,
Catherine.Scoville@loctite.com,
was
the customer service contact) and she recommended that I talk with
the local
Loctite Sales Rep at 800-323-5106. I was wanting to supply
them with
about 10 Grade 8 bolts 1/2" in size with various amounts of
Anti-seize on
them. Have some bolts with not much, a little,
some,
moderately-covered, and fully-coated. Give maybe 2 or 3 bolts of
each
one. Then let them test the bolts in their own
machines.
Nobody knows how much or how little and torque needs to be
reduced when
putting anti-seize on the bolts but how much anti-seize and how
much
reduction remains to be seen. However, I see that LocTite is
located in
Rocky Hill, CT (just a little south of Hartford) and I'll be at
Lime
Rock the first few days of September so I might be able to stop by
their
facility.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Andrew Woll
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002
10:16
Thanks Glenn but your post raises more questions than
answers.
What do you mean "reduce the torque on the lug nuts"?
How
much reduction is there in terms of percentage or actual figures?
Did STL
think it is a good idea or a bad idea to use anti seize on
lug
nuts?
"The group is right"???? Some in the group favor the
practice and some
don't. Please explain.
Is James right when he says
you need only use 80% of recommended force
if anti seize is
used.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 12:17:56
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
But Glenn - when I
contacted LocTite they were measuring the reduction
in force by a
fully-coated lugnut. I don't know of anyone who coats it
100% like
that. We use a little bit sparingly because it last a long
time.
That is what I asked and they said they have never tested
customer
applications before but they don't report anything except
fully-coated bolt
threads as well as both sides of the washer that is
used.
So it is
still just a guess as to what number to tighten it to. That
is,
assuming, that your torque wrench is accurate. Matt,
matt@teamtorque.com, at Team Torque, Inc.
can check and calibrate your
wrench for you. Great guy and I hope to
send my wrench to him soon for
verification.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn vrfour
Sent: Friday, August 23,
2002 11:59
The previous discussion was concerning the reduction
in
friction between the studs and lug nuts when using
an anti-sieze compound on
the studs resulting in an
increase in the clamping force.
According
to James at STL, when using their product
you reduce the torque spec for the
lugs by 20 percent.
According to stealth316.com (thanks Jeff). Lug
nuts
should be torqued to 88-103 ft/lb.
So, IN MY OPINION lug nuts
should be torqued to
80ft/lbs when using an anti-sieze
compound.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 09:24:24
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
Sounds like a great Idea
Flash. Keep us posted.
Glenn - 80 ft/lbs is the figure I have been using
for the last year. I use a
small dab of AS on the lugs. At least for me the
system is working fine.
Until this tread I never thought about bolt
stretching. I used the 80 lbs
because of concern about warping rotors.
I have never broken a lug and I
use the same spec on my two BMW's and my
Chevy truck. The lug nuts come off
fairly easily and I have never worried
about warping a rotor due to too much
torque. Thanks for the inquiry to
STL.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg"
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
"'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday,
August 23, 2002 8:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs -
revisited.
| I contacted Loctite (Catherine Scoville,
Catherine.Scoville@loctite.com,
|
was the customer service contact) and she recommended that I talk with
| the
local Loctite Sales Rep at 800-323-5106. I was wanting to supply
| them
with about 10 Grade 8 bolts 1/2" in size with various amounts of
| Anti-seize
on them. Have some bolts with not much, a little, some,
|
moderately-covered, and fully-coated. Give maybe 2 or 3 bolts of each
|
one. Then let them test the bolts in their own machines.
|
| Nobody
knows how much or how little and torque needs to be reduced when
| putting
anti-seize on the bolts but how much anti-seize and how much
| reduction
remains to be seen. However, I see that LocTite is located in
| Rocky
Hill, CT (just a little south of Hartford) and I'll be at Lime
| Rock the
first few days of September so I might be able to stop by their
|
facility.
|
| --Flash!
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From:
Andrew Woll
| Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 10:16
|
| Thanks Glenn but
your post raises more questions than answers.
|
| What do you mean "reduce
the torque on the lug nuts"?
|
| How much reduction is there in terms of
percentage or actual figures?
|
| Did STL think it is a good idea or a bad
idea to use anti seize on lug
| nuts?
|
| "The group is right"???? Some
in the group favor the practice and some
| don't. Please explain.
|
|
Is James right when he says you need only use 80% of recommended force
| if
anti seize is used.
|
|
| *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 09:25:42
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
Flash - what do you torque
the nuts to?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg"
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Friday, August 23, 2002 9:17 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel
studs - revisited.
| But Glenn - when I contacted LocTite they were
measuring the reduction
| in force by a fully-coated lugnut. I don't
know of anyone who coats it
| 100% like that. We use a little bit
sparingly because it last a long
| time. That is what I asked and they
said they have never tested
| customer applications before but they don't
report anything except
| fully-coated bolt threads as well as both sides of
the washer that is
| used.
|
| So it is still just a guess as to what
number to tighten it to. That
| is, assuming, that your torque wrench
is accurate. Matt,
|
matt@teamtorque.com, at Team Torque, Inc.
can check and calibrate your
| wrench for you. Great guy and I hope to
send my wrench to him soon for
| verification.
|
| --Flash!
|
|
-----Original Message-----
| From: glenn vrfour
| Sent: Friday, August 23,
2002 11:59
|
| The previous discussion was concerning the reduction
|
in friction between the studs and lug nuts when using
| an anti-sieze
compound on the studs resulting in an
| increase in the clamping force.
|
| According to James at STL, when using their product
| you reduce the
torque spec for the lugs by 20 percent.
|
| According to stealth316.com
(thanks Jeff). Lug nuts
| should be torqued to 88-103 ft/lb.
|
|
So, IN MY OPINION lug nuts should be torqued to
| 80ft/lbs when using an
anti-sieze compound.
|
|
| *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 12:44:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
Andy,
Like a few others have said I torque the lugnuts so they do not come
lose
while on the open track and they loosen easily when I am done with
the
session or done with the day. I have never had any lugnuts stick
and
have not snapped any studs. I'm avoiding the question on
purpose
because each application is different. I probably feel safer
having
slightly tighter lug nuts and giving a warped rotor feel (I'm used
to
that anyway from open track use) rather than under-tightening and
having
a rotor not sitting tight against the hub, etc.
I
don't coat the Anti-Seize on the studs very much so I don't reduce
to as much
as 80 ft*lbs but don't use the full dry measurement of 105
ft*lbs
either. But since you asked, typically it was 95 ft*lbs but will
soon
be dropped to 90 ft*lbs until I find out the true numbers that my
Anti-Seize
application generates.
But I also do this in three steps (75
ft*lbs then lower the car some,
85 ft*lbs and lower some more, 95 ft*lbs with
the car completely off the
jack). In this method the last bit to 95
ft*lbs is not very much more
effort so that is why I wanted to check the
torque wrench too since it
has nearly been one year since I bought it.
I just might be putting it
to 85 ft*lbs and it might be 105 ft*lbs right now
at the 95 ft*lb
setting. I don't know. But it is closer than
guessing.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew
Woll
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 12:26
Flash - what do you torque
the nuts to?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 09:57:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
I love it. You call
the company, they don't know squat, and tell you to
talk to the local sales
rep who probably also doesn't know squat.
On Fri, 23 Aug 2002, Darren
Schilberg wrote:
> I contacted Loctite (Catherine Scoville,
Catherine.Scoville@loctite.com,
>
was the customer service contact) and she recommended that I talk with
>
the local Loctite Sales Rep at 800-323-5106. I was wanting to
supply
> them with about 10 Grade 8 bolts 1/2" in size with various
amounts of
> Anti-seize on them. Have some bolts with not much, a
little, some,
> moderately-covered, and fully-coated. Give maybe 2
or 3 bolts of each
> one. Then let them test the bolts in their own
machines.
>
> Nobody knows how much or how little and torque needs
to be reduced when
> putting anti-seize on the bolts but how much
anti-seize and how much
> reduction remains to be seen. However, I
see that LocTite is located in
> Rocky Hill, CT (just a little south of
Hartford) and I'll be at Lime
> Rock the first few days of September so I
might be able to stop by their
> facility.
>
>
--Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew
Woll
> Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 10:16
>
> Thanks Glenn
but your post raises more questions than answers.
>
> What do you
mean "reduce the torque on the lug nuts"?
>
> How much reduction is
there in terms of percentage or actual figures?
>
> Did STL think it
is a good idea or a bad idea to use anti seize on lug
>
nuts?
>
> "The group is right"???? Some in the group favor the
practice and some
> don't. Please explain.
>
> Is James right
when he says you need only use 80% of recommended force
> if anti seize is
used.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 10:09:36
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
If any of you guys
that are worried about over torqueing your nuts have a
set of vernier
calipers(machinest tool, for depth you use the tang that
comes out the bottem
of the calipers when open)you could torque a nut down
dry and measure the
distance the stud protrudes out of the nut, then do the
same nut/stud with
anti-size compound of choice. Too bad you can't use a
dial indicator to see
it in action since the lug wrench covers the end of
the stud. If it is
stretching you should see a few thousands extra in the
stud height. Of course
you would want to measure the height of the nut off
the wheel each time to be
sure you are not just burying the nut.
Pete Rivenburg
Phoenix,
AZ
Privenburg@firstam.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 10:39:16
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
Thanks Flash - I use the
same three step method. I also use the "feels tight
enough method". It was
through the use of this method that I adopted my
80lbs figure. It just feels
right. I had no idea that it might actually be
justified because I use AS on
the lugs. I guess its just "dumb luck" coupled
with good
intuition.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren
Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday,
August 23, 2002 9:44 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs -
revisited.
| Andy,
|
| Like a few others have
said I torque the lugnuts so they do not come
| lose while on the open track
and they loosen easily when I am done with
| the session or done with the
day. I have never had any lugnuts stick
| and have not snapped any
studs. I'm avoiding the question on purpose
| because each application
is different. I probably feel safer having
| slightly tighter lug nuts
and giving a warped rotor feel (I'm used to
| that anyway from open track
use) rather than under-tightening and having
| a rotor not sitting tight
against the hub, etc.
| I don't coat the Anti-Seize on the
studs very much so I don't reduce
| to as much as 80 ft*lbs but don't use the
full dry measurement of 105
| ft*lbs either. But since you asked,
typically it was 95 ft*lbs but will
| soon be dropped to 90 ft*lbs until I
find out the true numbers that my
| Anti-Seize application
generates.
| But I also do this in three steps (75 ft*lbs
then lower the car some,
| 85 ft*lbs and lower some more, 95 ft*lbs with the
car completely off the
| jack). In this method the last bit to 95
ft*lbs is not very much more
| effort so that is why I wanted to check the
torque wrench too since it
| has nearly been one year since I bought
it. I just might be putting it
| to 85 ft*lbs and it might be 105
ft*lbs right now at the 95 ft*lb
| setting. I don't know. But it
is closer than guessing.
|
| --Flash!
|
| -----Original
Message-----
| From: Andrew Woll
| Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002
12:26
|
| Flash - what do you torque the nuts to?
|
|
| ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 14:05:55
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
Compressing it to where? The next
cylinder over that is on the upstroke?
This sounds like BS to me.
I
don't see how the KV system could be responsible for even a fraction of one HP.
Now as far as preventing overpressure of the crankcase and eliminating
minor oil leaks, seems to work great.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
Sent:
Friday, August 23, 2002 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Krankvent hp
increase?
The Krank Vent system does NOT prevent oil from entering
the intake track. ETP
claims that the partial vacuum created in the
crankcase (because *no* air is
allowed to enter) increases engine power and
response a few percent because
power is not wasted compressing air in the
crankcase on the downward piston
stroke.
More info:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-krankvents.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "dakken"
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>;
"Team3S List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-
3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 22, 2002 8:14 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Krankvent hp
increase?
Well, I could understand in one sense. If this prevents
oil from feeding
back into the intake like it is supposed to, that would
help. Oil lowers
the octane rating of the fuel, thereby making more
room for knock, which
retards timing, which.... you get the idea.
Just my 2 hp.
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 11:09:56
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
It's simple enough to install/uninstall,
so I'll get the Road Dyno out and
do some tests when I get a chance.
That'll settle the hp increase issue :-)
My engine feels a little smoother,
but I'm not noticing anything drastic on
the HP scale by my
butt-dyno.
- --Erik
> Compressing it to where? The next
cylinder over that is on
> the upstroke? This sounds like BS to me.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 11:21:13
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
I would have to agree. I read over their
site and it didn't make any sense
to me. They also said that dyno charts
prove their claims, I didn't see any
on their website. I saw one used as a
background and when looking on it, it
didn't make sense. Bottom line is that
I think if there is vacuum in the
crank case that will obviously make pistons
go down easier, but it will also
make it harder for them to come up. I would
like to see some numbers from
anyone here...
Tyson
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Gross, Erik
Sent: Friday,
August 23, 2002 11:10 AM
To: 'Zobel, Kurt';
jlucius@stealth316.com; Team3S List
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
It's simple
enough to install/uninstall, so I'll get the Road Dyno out and
do some tests
when I get a chance. That'll settle the hp increase issue :-)
My engine
feels a little smoother, but I'm not noticing anything drastic on
the HP
scale by my butt-dyno.
- --Erik
> Compressing it to
where? The next cylinder over that is on
> the upstroke? This sounds
like BS to me.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 20:36:04
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
No gain to expect as our engines are
short strockers and there is not much
pressure generated in the crank case
compared to long strockers like Harley
engines.
The problem is that
the stock PCV seems not been made for boost above more
than than stock. As we
all increase boost this results in failure and the
crankcase gets
additionally pressurised. Therefore using the KrankVent is an
insurance for
the health of the engine as well as it keeps the system as
closed as possible
with a fast cycling rate.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Zobel,
Kurt'" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>; <
jlucius@stealth316.com>;
"Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 23, 2002 8:09 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Krankvent hp
increase?
> It's simple enough to install/uninstall, so I'll get
the Road Dyno out and
> do some tests when I get a chance. That'll
settle the hp increase issue
:-)
> My engine feels a little smoother,
but I'm not noticing anything drastic
on
> the HP scale by my
butt-dyno.
>
> --Erik
>
> > Compressing it to
where? The next cylinder over that is on
> > the upstroke? This
sounds like BS to me.
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 14:42:26
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: Police radars
I was just digging through some junk mail here at
work and found a catalog
that was probably intended for the safety and
security enforcement here at
work. Uniforms, handcuffs, pepper spray, riot
gear, radios, knifes, flash
lights, batons, etc... Scary stuff.
Then
there was a section with police radars. Most of them were K-band
units
priced at about $1K. Get this: out of twelve models, at least eight
claimed
not to set off civilian radar detectors. It will take a while
before these
units replace the ones currently used by police. But that
will happen
eventually and your trusted radar detector won't detect them.
So, shop wisely
for your next radar detector if you absolutely have to
have
one.
Funny: for $100, you could choose several different sets of car door
lock
picks. They come with usage manuals. Some of them say that they
are
specifically for Ford or Chrysler vehicles up to a certain model
year,
others say that they open most late-model import
cars.
Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 14:56:21
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Police radars
Sorry that's a bogus claim, any radar detector
made after 2K will pick up
even the newest radar gun, CT State Police Just
did a test on this a couple
of weekends ago and I got to be one of the
drivers :)
They were evaluating both the sensitivity of the detectors and
the
radar/laser cost benefit issue. Needless to say they are not pleased with
my
V1 (had the software updated about 6 months ago) It picked up the
best
radar gun 2 miles out and the worst almost 3 out.
Of note if the
municipality you live in uses instant on, you are focked and
that is one of
the things alot of the units they were testing came with :/
The
$250 Bel and Cobra models did respectable, anything below that
mark
basically sucked IMHO (warning range on radar below 1 mile in some cases
and
they falsed way to much in my opinion)
Laser pointed at me didn't
pick up until I was basically on top of the damn
thing, however if pointed at
another target (in this case a trooper's
cruiser) I spotted it almost 1.5
miles out.
They ended up with similar results 2 years ago when they did
this (again I
got to help)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 2:42
PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com>
Subject: Team3S: Police radars
>
>
> I was just digging
through some junk mail here at work and found a catalog
> that was
probably intended for the safety and security enforcement here at
> work.
Uniforms, handcuffs, pepper spray, riot gear, radios, knifes, flash
>
lights, batons, etc... Scary stuff.
>
> Then there was a section
with police radars. Most of them were K-band
> units priced at about
$1K. Get this: out of twelve models, at least eight
> claimed not to set
off civilian radar detectors. It will take a while
> before these units
replace the ones currently used by police. But that
> will happen
eventually and your trusted radar detector won't detect them.
> So, shop
wisely for your next radar detector if you absolutely have to
> have
one.
>
> Funny: for $100, you could choose several different sets
of car door lock
> picks. They come with usage manuals. Some of them say
that they are
> specifically for Ford or Chrysler vehicles up to a certain
model year,
> others say that they open most late-model import
cars.
>
> Philip
>
>
>
>
>
*** Info:
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***
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
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==============================================================================
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 07:32:41
-0500
From: "Simons, Chris - BUR" <
csimons@wm.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Instrument Cluster Lights
Last night i took my insrument cluster apart to
change the light bulbs for
my ECS and POWER lights. Are these lights
something I need to get from the
dealer? They're different from
instrument lights I've seen before. I
checked the parts look-up on Dave
Black's site and couldn't fine them.
If someone knows the part# could you
please let me know.
Thanks
tons,
Chris
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 12:10:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Police radars
> V1 (had the software updated about 6 months
ago
> V1 (had the software updated about 6 months ago)
How do
you go about a software upgrade for a V1? Mine
is about 1 year
old.
FYI, in todays Seattle Times. State Troopers have
been
setting up fake road construction sites. The
scope on top of the
surveyors tripod is a police
laser, the surveyor - a trooper. 8
troopers are
waiting downstream to hand out tickets. Since it's
not
a real construction zone, fines are not doubled.
72 tickets in 2
hours. This is in response to a
recent road construction
fatality.
Glenn
at or under in construction
zones....
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 15:15:12
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Police radars
You send it back to valentine labs, pay
shipping to and pay shipping back
and IIRC it was 50 bucks for the
upgrade.
CSP did the same thing at the beginning of the summer in
3 days they handed
out about the same number. Reason number 2 to drop
to 45 as posted around
the construction zones a 100 fine + insurance jump =
very bad day.
As for cost I would call Valentine customer service and see
if anything has
changed
Russ F
CT
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: glenn vrfour [SMTP:vr4glenn@yahoo.com]
> Sent:
Friday, August 23, 2002 3:10 PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Police radars
>
> How do you go about a software upgrade
for a V1? Mine
> is about 1 year old.
>
> FYI, in
todays Seattle Times. State Troopers have
> been setting up fake
road construction sites. The
> scope on top of the surveyors tripod
is a police
> laser, the surveyor - a trooper. 8 troopers
are
> waiting downstream to hand out tickets. Since it's
> not
a real construction zone, fines are not doubled.
> 72 tickets in 2
hours. This is in response to a
> recent road construction
fatality.
>
> Glenn
> at or under in construction
zones....
-
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e-mail transmission may contain information that is proprietary, privileged
and/or confidential and is intended exclusively for the person(s) to whom it is
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the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
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immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies.
==============================================================================
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 12:19:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: v1
upgrades (was) Team3S: Police radars
Here is a link:
https://store.valentine1.com/upgrades/enter
your 10 digit serial number and it tells you
what upgrades are
available.
Glenn
- --- "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
wrote:
> You send it back to valentine labs, pay shipping to
> and
pay shipping back
> and IIRC it was 50 bucks for the upgrade.
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 15:43:24
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
No, Dave, the company said
(roughly), "We have not had a request to test
customer equipment so please
talk to your local sale rep for more
information since you live nowhere near
us." It was not a snub-off but
an informative answer. I did not
feel the need to forward all
correspondence from them and only sent the most
pertinent info. They do
their tests with full-coverage on bolts and
that is why they did not
have an answer for my partially-coated
bolts.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: David
Margrave [mailto:davidma@eskimo.com]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002
12:57
I love it. You call the company, they don't know squat, and
tell you to
talk to the local sales rep who probably also doesn't know
squat.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 15:44:33
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
Pete,
My lugnuts
are the acorn style and the stud does not protrude so I don't
know how you
would test on a setup like this.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Rivenburg, Pete
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002
13:10
If any of you guys that are worried about over torqueing your nuts
have
a set of vernier calipers(machinest tool, for depth you use the
tang
that comes out the bottem of the calipers when open)you could torque
a
nut down dry and measure the distance the stud protrudes out of the
nut,
then do the same nut/stud with anti-size compound of choice. Too bad
you
can't use a dial indicator to see it in action since the lug
wrench
covers the end of the stud. If it is stretching you should see a
few
thousands extra in the stud height. Of course you would want to
measure
the height of the nut off the wheel each time to be sure you are
not
just burying the nut.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 12:49:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Police radars
I have the Passport 8500... works very well, but
laser
detection still worries me and the Kitsap County State
Troopers have
been using them more frequently...
although the 8500 has an excellent laser
detector,
frequently... it's too late...
Might have to get this
:)
http://www.escortstore.com/zr3.htmRoger
L
F15DOC
- --- glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Here
is a link:
>
>
https://store.valentine1.com/upgrades/>
> enter your 10 digit serial number and it tells you
> what
upgrades are available.
>
> Glenn
> --- "Furman, Russell"
<
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
wrote:
> > You send it back to valentine labs, pay shipping
>
to
> > and pay shipping back
> > and IIRC it was 50 bucks for
the upgrade.
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
>
http://finance.yahoo.com>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 15:48:01
-0700
From: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@2xtreme.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Sunroof crank
Hello All,
Well the crank for
the glass top to my stealth seems to be stripped and
will now only go up
halfway (OK no Viagra jokes!) and it won't hold the top
down tightly either.
I've tried to take apart the assembly but only managed
to strip one of the
phillips head screws that hold the top plate (Aaaargh!).
Anybody else out there replace this unit? and if so what am I looking at
for
cost?
I've had great luck from Rockville Mitsu for parts
so my next step is to
call them but in the meantime I thought I'd run it by
you good folks. . .
==========================
Ian Marks
'94
RT-turbo
Los Angeles
www.2xtreme.net/ianmarks==========================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 15:55:18
-0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Sunroof crank
If you remove the screw that holds the crank up
you'll find a washer
right on top there. If that is curved inward, it
is most likely your
problem. It has to do with the tension required to
pull the unit up and
down (I don't remember exactly because it's been a year
since I had mine
apart). Replace the washer and it will work
fine. Exact same thing
happened to me.
James Mutton
(vrrrr4)
95 3000GT VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ian Marks
[mailto:ianmarks@2xtreme.net]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 3:48 PM
To:
Team3s
Subject: Team3S: Sunroof crank
Hello
All,
Well the crank for the glass top to my stealth seems
to be stripped
and will now only go up halfway (OK no Viagra jokes!) and it
won't hold
the top down tightly either. I've tried to take apart the assembly
but
only managed to strip one of the phillips head screws that hold the
top
plate (Aaaargh!).
Anybody else out there replace
this unit? and if so what am I
looking at for cost?
I've had great luck from Rockville Mitsu for parts so my next step
is to call
them but in the meantime I thought I'd run it by you good
folks. .
.
==========================
Ian Marks
'94 RT-turbo
Los
Angeles
www.2xtreme.net/ianmarks==========================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 17:11:25
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sunroof crank
+> Hello
All,
+> Well the crank for the glass top to my
stealth seems to be stripped and
+> will now only go up halfway (OK no
Viagra jokes!) and it won't hold the top
+> down tightly either. I've
tried to take apart the assembly but only managed
+> to strip one of the
phillips head screws that hold the top plate
(Aaaargh!).
+> Anybody else out there replace this
unit? and if so what am I looking at
+> for
cost?
+> I've had great luck from Rockville Mitsu
for parts so my next step is to
+> call them but in the meantime I thought
I'd run it by you good folks. . .
+>
+>
==========================
+> Ian Marks
+> '94 RT-turbo
+> Los
Angeles
+>
www.2xtreme.net/ianmarks+>
==========================
I know the assembly all too well..
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/sunroof/sunroof.htmlHard
to say by your description whether it's the crank handle
plastic that's
broken, or the internal worm gear mechanism that
raises and lowers the
roof. If it's the former, you may just
need to tighten up the
connection between the handle and the
regulator. If it's the latter,
good luck..
I have fixed mine but haven't updated my webpage.
Unfortunately,
you can't get any of the individual parts. You have to
buy the
complete regulator assembly, which IIRC retails for ~$250.
You
can get a Team3S discount, but it's still a chunk of
change.
Similarly, junkyards usually won't sell just the regulator, as
they sell them with the sunroof complete. Same price for the
whole
thing from the few yards I checked. I got lucky and
found someone that
only needed the glass roof, so I chipped in
on the price and got a
replacement regulator after looking for
over a year.
fwiw, I had
to take an impact driver to my top plate screws after
cutting the slots
deeper with a dremel for the bit to engage.
be warned that you may do
enough damage to need a replacement
regulator anyway. hope yours is
easier to fix than mine was.
Dave
=======================
= 95
Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 17:25:31
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sunroof crank
It happened to me but I was able to get it all
apart nicely. In my case, the
phillips head screw that is in the center had
some loose and stripped out
the threads. I found a screw that was about 1/4
inch longer, reassembled,
and I've been good ever since.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 8/23/02 4:48 PM, Ian Marks at
ianmarks@2xtreme.net
scribbled:
> Hello All,
> Well the crank for the
glass top to my stealth seems to be stripped and
> will now only go up
halfway (OK no Viagra jokes!) and it won't hold the top
> down tightly
either. I've tried to take apart the assembly but only managed
> to strip
one of the phillips head screws that hold the top plate
(Aaaargh!).
> Anybody else out there replace this unit? and if
so what am I looking at
> for cost?
> I've had great
luck from Rockville Mitsu for parts so my next step is to
> call them but
in the meantime I thought I'd run it by you good folks. . .
>
>
==========================
> Ian Marks
> '94 RT-turbo
> Los
Angeles
>
www.2xtreme.net/ianmarks>
==========================
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 20:44:30
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Police radars
This fake construction site crap must
be a fad.. Here in Jacksonville
and St.Augustine Florida, FHP is doing
the same thing.. This is of course
also due to a couple FHP officers
being hit while handing out tickets..
Im hearing about some sort
of stealthing device on the radio quite a bit..
It sends out all kinds of
signals to confuse the radar gun. Cant remember
the name, but
supposedly they will pay the ticket if you get hit while using
their
product.. The real question is will they pay the insurance
increase?
My opinion is that they hand out enough tickets w/o
creating more trickery
to snuff the occasional 80mph in a 70mph zone..
It just seems that they
could be doing something much more
productive..
Scott
94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 18:05:58
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Police radars
> Im hearing about some sort of
stealthing device on the radio quite a
bit..
> It sends out all kinds
of signals to confuse the radar gun. Cant remember
> the name, but
supposedly they will pay the ticket if you get hit while
using
> their
product.. The real question is will they pay the
insurance
increase?
I believe that the device you are talking about is
the Stealth/VRCD. Too
bad the FCC shut them down.
=(
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
>From
www.copradar.com:
To date only one
known (active) jammer actually works; the Stealth/VRCD made
by Stealth
Technologies in Naperville, Illinois -- reported (June 1998) to
be out of
business due to an FCC crackdown on radar jammer manufacturers.
This jammer
counters X and K band traffic radars; some later models
reportedly also
counter Ka band (fixed frequency) radars. The unit has an
audio alert and LED
to indicate when a radar is detected, and another LED to
indicate the jammer
is transmitting. The unit reportedly uses a fake target
echo to blind the
radar (as described in the above paragraph). This jammer
received high marks
from Car and Driver magazine, RADAR Reporter, and
Truckers News. The RADAR
Reporter (1993 NOV edition) tested the Stealth/VRCD
against 5 different
radars; 4 out of 5 radars could not register target
speed at all. In all
cases the radars gave no indication a jamming signal
was present. The Decatur
MV-715 (X band) managed to measure target speed
(burn-through the jamming) on
one test run, at a mere 150 foot range (will
vary with target radar cross
section). The jammer managed to detect and
defeat the traffic radar in plenty
of time and long enough for a driver to
react (if
necessary).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 18:13:35
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Police radars
> Laser pointed at me didn't pick up until I
was basically on top of the
damn
> thing, however if pointed at another
target (in this case a trooper's
> cruiser) I spotted it almost 1.5 miles
out.
What kind of car were you driving? What color was the
car? Was it recently
waxed or did it have a layer of dust on it?
Did you have a bra? How about
your car, did it have a bra too?
=)
Just curious. I have read that all of those things will affect a
IR radar's
detection range.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 13:28:50
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
It's got nothing to do with the
stroke, it's just that all their sales BS is
based around the Harley, which
has nothing in common with our engines. For
us for every piston going up
there is one going down, not so with the V
twin. I stated that sometime ago
and didn't get one reply.
V Twins have huge fluctuations in crankcase
pressure as the pistons go up
and down. Based on that fact it is easy to see
how a Krank vent can keep a
vacuum in the crankcase. Different story with our
engines.
Steve
> No gain to expect as our engines are short
strockers and there is not much
> pressure generated in the crank case
compared to long strockers like
Harley
>
engines.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 00:33:41
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Brake fade follow-up
Hey guys-
Spent all day today with the help
of a friend and checked the braking system
over-also bleeded the
system.
The discs and pads are fine-over 80% id say on all of the pads.
Also checked
the brake lines and they showed no
wear/holes/anything.
I bled the system as many guys have instructed-and
took it out for a spin. I
drove around for bout 1/2 hour then went to an
empty parking lot and tested
em. They felt fine-only after the 7th or 8th
heavy stop did i feel just a bit
of fade-nothing big. But using the ABS
increases fade ALOT. . .it takes the
brakes a few minutes to cool to a good
level it seems. . .::sigh::
The braking system on my car is in excellent
condition. . .but i still hold
the opinion that they are underbraked. .
.
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 00:16:21
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Advice on a muffler
(First of all let me apologize for any typos
in this e-mail, my monitor is
dying on me and its nearly impossible to read
what I am typing at this very
moment)
Soon I will be upgrading my stock
exhaust system on my VR-4. I pretty much
have everything planned out except
for the muffler. I am looking for a very
very unrestrictive muffler, I looked
at flowmaster's website, and given
their name I thought perhaps their
mufflers would flow well, well they have
all kinds of baffles in tem
apparently and that really sucks for a turbo
car. So can anyone suggest a
good, high flow, and fairly cheep muffler for
my car. (By the way I am
getting a true dual exhaust system, turbo back 2
indiviual exhausts, it might
be heavier, but I think it is going to help in
the long run) Thanks everyone
for your input! (Please direct any replys to
me directly as I am still forced
to get the digest version of Team3S)
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT
VR-4
Member #4909
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 02:53:53
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake fade follow-up
Hey Mike - Sorry I couldn't chat with you
when you IM'ed me but you
understand I hope. You still have stock pads,
right? You will never
have fantastic, mind-blowing brake performance
with stock pads, rubber
lines, and normal fluid. You will, however, be
able to have good and
repeatable braking like you found out today.
I
think Chuck said it though that your street driving will not be
boiling fluid
and SS lines will help mostly the feel of the pedal since
they don't
stretch. But pads should probably be first followed by new
rotors then
maybe SS lines. I've not seen a street car need high-temp
brake fluid
yet. You can switch to that since it is the cheapest
alternative but I
think a set of Porterfield R4-S front pads would
really improve your
braking.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Saturday,
August 24, 2002 00:34
Spent all day today with the help of a friend and
checked the braking
system
over-also bleeded the system.
The discs
and pads are fine-over 80% id say on all of the pads. Also
checked
the
brake lines and they showed no wear/holes/anything.
I bled the system as
many guys have instructed-and took it out for a
spin. I
drove around for
bout 1/2 hour then went to an empty parking lot and
tested
em. They felt
fine-only after the 7th or 8th heavy stop did i feel just
a bit
of
fade-nothing big. But using the ABS increases fade ALOT. . .it takes
the
brakes a few minutes to cool to a good level it seems. .
.::sigh::
The braking system on my car is in excellent condition. . .but
i still
hold
the opinion that they are underbraked. .
.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 11:58:05
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
>> ... all their sales BS
....
WOW! such anger! :)
I did not purchase the Krank Vents for a
"power increase". I bought them
because they are (supposedly) true one-way
valves good to 100 psi (according
to ETP's "BS"). In particular, I wanted no
air to flow from the pressurized
intake manifold through a "leaky" PCV valve
into the rocker cover (and
crankcase). I have not decided yet to leave the
larger Krank vent installed
near the intake hose. Unfortunately, my car has
been on stands for two months
for repairs and mods since I installed the
Krank Vents and so I have not been
able to evaluate them.
For
whatever reason (blow-by or leaky PCV valve), many of our engines show
signs
of elevated crankcase pressure, especially during boost operations. This
is
demonstrated by oil expelled through the oil cap seal and sometimes through
the exhaust. If the Krank Vents can reduce crankcase pressure, as it seems
to
for many 3S owners, then this is great, regardless of any hp
issues.
My particular engine also leaks oil "somewhere" (thanks to my
engine builder).
So far, I believe one leak is the oil pan seal near the
front
crankshaft "bend" in the pan (the other could easily be the bend at
the rear
of the crankshaft). This is also I believe the source of the
"whistling" noise
I experienced after installing the Krank Vents with a
drilled PCV valve. If
oil can get out, then air can get in if the crankcase
is under
extreme "vacuum" (it took extra effort to remove the oil cap or
dipstick at
idle). I am not sure it is a good thing for the crankcase to
have that low a
pressure when there are leaks present, so I returned to
using the stock PCV
valve and no more "whistling".
More info on Krank
Vents and our PCV system:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-krankvents.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Re: Team3S: Krankvent hp
increase?
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 13:28:50 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper"
<
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
To:
"Team3S List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 08:12:05
-0400 (EDT)
From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
(Kimberly Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: ignition switch and tobacco smell in air
vents
Some of you wanted to know what my problem was with the car
not
starting. When I would turn the key to start the car, nothing
would
happen. No noise, nothing. I would have to turn the key 8-10
times
before it would finally start. It was the ignition switch. Thanks
for
all of those that offered advice.
Now, I have a new problem. It's
not anything serious, but I would like
to know what it is. I am very migraine
prone and am sensitive to smells.
If I run my air conditioner for say 10
minutes, there is a smell that
comes out like pipe tobacco. I would like to
get rid of the smell. My
car is a daily driver and the smell makes me sicker
if I have a
headache. Any ideas as to what it is? I have owned the car for a
year
and I didn't notice it last summer. Thanks, Kim
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 08:26:58
-0400
From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake fade follow-up
For those of you using the Porterfield R4-S
or other higher performance pads
with Stock Rotors:
Are you guys
switching pads for track and street?
OR
Using the Porterfield R4-S
Full-Time?
I guess another question would be:
How much daily
driving vs track time are your cars getting?
thanks
Older Bob (Forrest
claimed Oldest - I'm not sure!)
(g8rbob)
'99VR-4
-
----------
>From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake fade follow-up
>Date: Sat, Aug 24, 2002, 2:53
AM
>
> Hey Mike - Sorry I couldn't chat with you when you IM'ed
me but you
> understand I hope. You still have stock pads,
right? You will never
> have fantastic, mind-blowing brake
performance with stock pads, rubber
> lines, and normal fluid. You
will, however, be able to have good and
> repeatable braking like you
found out today.
>
> I think Chuck said it though that your street
driving will not be
> boiling fluid and SS lines will help mostly the feel
of the pedal since
> they don't stretch. But pads should probably be
first followed by new
> rotors then maybe SS lines. I've not seen a
street car need high-temp
> brake fluid yet. You can switch to that
since it is the cheapest
> alternative but I think a set of Porterfield
R4-S front pads would
> really improve your braking.
>
>
--Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com> Sent:
Saturday, August 24, 2002 00:34
>
> Spent all day today with the
help of a friend and checked the braking
> system
> over-also
bleeded the system.
>
> The discs and pads are fine-over 80% id say
on all of the pads. Also
> checked
> the brake lines and they showed
no wear/holes/anything.
>
> I bled the system as many guys have
instructed-and took it out for a
> spin. I
> drove around for bout
1/2 hour then went to an empty parking lot and
> tested
> em. They
felt fine-only after the 7th or 8th heavy stop did i feel just
> a
bit
> of fade-nothing big. But using the ABS increases fade ALOT. . .it
takes
> the
> brakes a few minutes to cool to a good level it seems.
. .::sigh::
>
> The braking system on my car is in excellent
condition. . .but i still
> hold
> the opinion that they are
underbraked. . .
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 11:30:02
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake fade follow-up
Bob,
I have historically switched
pads at the track (first set were the Pagid
Orange babies that came with Brad
Bedell's Big Red brake kit) and the
last set were Porterfield R-4 race
compound pads. Both worked extremely
well for the track.
This
last time I was forced to take the street tires (Pirelli P-Zero
245/40/18)
and the street pads (Porterfield R4-S) to the track since my
track tires were
on loan. I actually had zero brake fade with the R4-S
(street pads) and
always had some fade with the race pads. Granted I
was driving a little
easier since I knew I didn't have full-out race
pads in there so on an
all-out session they would have made a good name
for themselves. They
also do not dust very badly compared to others
although I forget what brands
really DO dust badly.
This last set has been the street set. 99.9%
street use and 0.1% track
use. The R-4 pads were 100% track use and 0%
street use and its
complimentary R4-S pads were 0% track use and 100% street
use. The
problem I noticed with this was that after track use the
rotors were
worn differently and the street pads needed "bedding in" again to
mate
to the surface of the rotor. Same with the race pads. Next
time I'm
going to try and have not only a set of race pads but a set of
race
rotors so they will always be mated a little closer to each other in
the
beginning.
The Pagid Oranges lasted about 4 two-day Des. The
R-4 pads have only
been in for 1 two-day DE so far. The R4-S pads have
been in for 1
one-day open track session.
Race pads WILL squeak on the
street. Street pads WILL squeak when used
on the raced rotors if the
rotors are not turned and cleaned off the
little bits of buildup and tiny
cracks. This is my observation.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big
Red brakes, SS lines, Motul 600 fluid and
VERY happy with PF R4-S street pads
on both street and track
- -----Original Message-----
From: bob atkins
[mailto:ratkins@cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 08:27
For
those of you using the Porterfield R4-S or other higher performance
pads with
Stock Rotors:
Are you guys switching pads for track and
street?
OR
Using the Porterfield R4-S Full-Time?
I guess
another question would be:
How much daily driving vs track time are your
cars getting?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#934
***************************************