Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, August 23
2002 Volume 01 : Number
933
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Aug 2002 13:25:22 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Part number wanted
>> Can some kind soul send me the
Part number for the radio mast? <snip>
If the same as a '92:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-antenna.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "The Hedonist" <
rboehner@dimensional.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 6:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Part number
wanted
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 08:45:18
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: terrible brake fade
Hawk HPS are better than stock or Stillen
metal matrix, but not as good on
the track as the very metallic PAGID
pads. Why not try Carbotech Panther
Plus? I found these to be a
good street/track pad. The NSX guys you will
be driving with will
probably be failiar with them.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: bob atkins [mailto:ratkins@cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 9:46 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: terrible brake fade
So I hear support for Porterfield
RS-4. What about Hawk HPS. Both are
"light racing/street" pads
and both have fitments for the VR-4. Anybody
used both and prefer one
over the other for some reason. I want to switch
pads and fluid in the
next couple of weeks
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 12:52:36
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
I have a free mod
suggestion:
I have added another rubber gasket to the oil cap and it
never leaked
since. I removed the stock oil cap rubber gasket, cut an
identical gasket
out of sheet rubber with paper scissors, and installed them
both back on
the oil cap. The cap now closes a little tighter and does not
leak.
I should have used oil resistant rubber, but I did not have it, so
I used
rubber from a motorcycle inner tube. I installed it underneath the
stock
gasket and it worked just fine.
Philip
>Now, after
installing the Krankvent, I can even put the GReddy cap on
there
>with
no leaking at all. Previously, the GReddy had leaked the worst
of
the
>three caps.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 12:57:09
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
The only problem
with that Phil is, now the pressure in the heads is going
to try and find
another way out maybe along the valve covers or even the
sparkplug
gaskets. The krank vent is actually designed to prevent the heads
from
becoming pressurized.
Russ F
CT
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 12:53
PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
>
>
> I have a free mod suggestion:
>
> I have added another
rubber gasket to the oil cap and it never leaked
> since. I removed the
stock oil cap rubber gasket, cut an identical gasket
> out of sheet rubber
with paper scissors, and installed them both back on
> the oil cap. The
cap now closes a little tighter and does not leak.
>
> I should
have used oil resistant rubber, but I did not have it, so I used
> rubber
from a motorcycle inner tube. I installed it underneath the stock
> gasket
and it worked just fine.
>
> Philip
-
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==============================================================================
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 13:11:04
-0500
From: "Simons, Chris - BUR" <
csimons@wm.com>
Subject: Team3S: My
cockpit air vent control is not controlling
Hey Everyone,
Just
last week I got my Stealth back from having the engine rebuilt and
noticed
that inside the cockpit the air is only blowing through the main
vents.
When I turn the vent control to defog, or the foot vents it just
keeps
blowing through the main vents.
Anyone have any suggestions on things I
can check. What controls the vent
control?
As always, your
responses are very much appreciated; I've learned more in
the last 2 weeks
from you guys then in the last year that I've owned
the
car.
Thanks,
Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 09:04:30
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: terrible brake fade
Mike,
Change the fluid for some
good high temperature fluid and bleed the system
completely, that means all
four calipers and with the ABS pump running. It
doesn't matter what
calipers, rotors, or pads you have if you are pushing on
a fluid mixed with
gas. Water vapor is compressible. As your fluid ages,
water from the
air gets into it.
There is a logical progression for improving
braking.
1. Make sure the stock system is working right - that means
preventive
maintenance.
That might mean bleeding the brakes, replacing the
pads, turning the rotors,
or even rebuilding the calipers or the master
cylinder.
2. Change the type of fluid to one with high boiling point.
3.
Trade the stock pads (which are not that bad)for more agressive pads.
4.
Change the rubber brake lines for braided metallic ones.
5. If you are
running on a track then you might think about improving brake
cooling. The
easiest thing to do is remove the brake dust shields. More
complex would be
brake ducting or active cooling.
6. If you need more braking power after you
did all the above, then consider
brake upgrades, like bigger calipers and
rotors. If you are only driving on
the street, it is very difficult for
me to imagine that you need more
braking.
Chuck Willis
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 10:19 PM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: terrible brake fade
My fluid needs to be changed which i
will do friday. . .perhaps it is the
pads as u guys suggest? i replaced them
with the genuine Mitsu pads.
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY
NOTICE+++++
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of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
review,
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you.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 11:00:14
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
That's what that
hose does, that goes from the valve cover straight to
the
intake.
Steve
> The only problem with that Phil is, now
the pressure in the heads is going
> to try and find another way out maybe
along the valve covers or even the
> sparkplug gaskets. The krank
vent is actually designed to prevent the
heads
> from becoming
pressurized.
>
> Russ F
> CT
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002
12:53 PM
> > To:
team3s@team3s.com> > Subject: Re:
Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
> >
>
>
> > I have a free mod suggestion:
> >
> > I have
added another rubber gasket to the oil cap and it never leaked
> >
since. I removed the stock oil cap rubber gasket, cut an
identical
gasket
> > out of sheet rubber with paper scissors, and
installed them both back on
> > the oil cap. The cap now closes a
little tighter and does not leak.
> >
> > I should have used
oil resistant rubber, but I did not have it, so I
used
> > rubber
from a motorcycle inner tube. I installed it underneath the stock
> >
gasket and it worked just fine.
> >
> > Philip
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----
> This e-mail transmission may contain information that is
proprietary,
privileged and/or confidential and is intended exclusively for
the person(s)
to whom it is addressed. Any use, copying, retention or
disclosure by any
person other than the intended recipient or the intended
recipient's
designees is strictly prohibited. If you have received this
message in
error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and
delete
all
copies.
>
>
>
============================================================================
==
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 17:08:19
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
Where can I get
this Krankvent?
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Cooper
[mailto:scooper@paradise.net.nz]
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 5:00
PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
That's what that
hose does, that goes from the valve cover straight
to
the
intake.
Steve
> The only problem with that Phil
is, now the pressure in the heads is
going
> to try and find another
way out maybe along the valve covers or even
the
> sparkplug
gaskets. The krank vent is actually designed to prevent
the
heads
> from becoming pressurized.
>
> Russ F
>
CT
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002
12:53 PM
> > To:
team3s@team3s.com> > Subject: Re:
Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
> >
>
>
> > I have a free mod suggestion:
> >
> > I have
added another rubber gasket to the oil cap and it never
leaked
> >
since. I removed the stock oil cap rubber gasket, cut an
identical
gasket
> > out of sheet rubber with paper scissors, and
installed them both
back on
> > the oil cap. The cap now closes a
little tighter and does not leak.
> >
> > I should have used
oil resistant rubber, but I did not have it, so I
used
> > rubber
from a motorcycle inner tube. I installed it underneath the
stock
>
> gasket and it worked just fine.
> >
> >
Philip
>
>
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--
- ----
> This e-mail transmission may contain information that is
proprietary,
privileged and/or confidential and is intended exclusively for
the
person(s)
to whom it is addressed. Any use, copying, retention or
disclosure by
any
person other than the intended recipient or the intended
recipient's
designees is strictly prohibited. If you have received this
message in
error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and
delete
all
copies.
>
>
>
========================================================================
====
==
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 09:36:43
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: side window decal repair
Okay, I'm stupid. I can't find
the procedure for repairing the side window
decal, and my wife is bugging me
about how grodey it looks. I did a clumsy
search Jeff Lucious site,
3Si, and John Adams garage and some FAQ sites
without luck. Any help
out there for the Internet-challenged?
Chuck
Willis
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The information in
this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are not the
intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 22:14:45
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
Well, I could understand in one
sense. If this prevents oil from feeding
back into the intake like it
is supposed to, that would help. Oil lowers
the octane rating of the
fuel, thereby making more room for knock, which
retards timing,
which.... you get the idea. Just my 2 hp.
Ken
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual
Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS
SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage
II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof,
white Ram emblem
98/99 COOLANT TANK (6/26/02)
Best (pathetic)
time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of dakken
> Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 8:26 PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
>
Subject: Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
>
>
> I noticed that
the Krankvent web site claims a 3-7% horsepower
> increase.
On
> our cars that means 9 to 22 hp on a all stock TT or VR-4 car.
>
That would be
> about the equivelent of a K&N FIPK.
>
>
Can anyone confirm this?
>
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT
TT
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 21:37:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
twin turbo
Hi Everyone: I have a question about twin turbo. I
have a
92 VR4. It got the stock 9B turbo about 9psi
peak. Is it a combined value ?
Like 4.5psi each ? What
could happen if they are not providing same
output,
like one is kind of broken but barely runs and the
other one is
normal.
Anthony
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 06:05:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
anti-sieze on wheel studs - revisited.
I wrote STL Compound Corporation,
makers of Saf-T-Eze.
The group was correct, you reduce the torque on
the
lug nuts when using an anti-sieze product.
Glenn
93
VR-4
- --- Wendell Sherry <
jws@saftlok.com> wrote:
> You need
only apply as little as 80% of recommended
> torque to achiece the
>
same clamping load. Sincerely,
James
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#933
***************************************