Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, August 22
2002 Volume 01 : Number
932
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 21 Aug 2002 05:33:10 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 720 injectors
I'm curious as to why they didn't charge you
anything?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Tuesday, August
20, 2002 8:59 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Damon
Rachell
Subject: Re: Team3S: 720 injectors
Thanks to all
respondees [ sorry I had to make up a word ] --- turns
out I lied about the
number on mine --- mine are the 195500-8030
rather than the 8060 number I
posted. Sooo, they should be 720's
and I need to find out why they were
tested at about half that number.
They didn't charge for the test so I'm only
out information, I guess a
call to RC engineering may resolve the
issue.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@MEFAS.com>
> I found
this site with a pic. Trying to find others.
> Damon
>
http://www.twinturbo.us/720s.html>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 12:15 PM
>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: 720 injectors
>
>
> I have a set of near
new injectors that have a Denso part number
> 195500-0860 and a lite blue
top. I was told they were 720 cc but
> I had them flow tested [ possible
test problems ] and got a flow
> number of 396 cc well below the 720
number. They were static
> tested on a flow tester with 43 psi. Does
anyone know if the number
> is correct for 720 injectors.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 07:46:08
-0400
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Alarm..Kinda long
Another alarming question:
My 92 RT/TT's alarm
will sometimes go off on it's own when the car is
sitting and locked. I had
it sitting at the airport one week and, while I
was gone, it must have honked
and flashed so many times, by the time I got
back, the battery was dead. Had
to get a jump start at 1AM.
I'm assuming that there is a loose switch
somewhere. What should I check -
and is the hatch part of the
system?
I also notice that sometimes the green ALARM light in the dash
comes on when
I lock it, other times it does
not.
Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 06:57:55
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: front axles...any options for a budget?
When I first installed
mine, the upper plate was not aligned with the
bottom plate correctly causing
this clunking you are referring to...
There is actually an alignment hole in
the lower and upper plate that
have to line up to prevent this
clunk...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 12:34 AM
To: Robert Koch;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
front axles...any options for a budget?
I would say it's not likely you
damaged the axles --- when trouble
shooting
always go back to what you
did last. In this case the spring install ---
my
guess [ although I
haven't done Intrax ] is that you've somehow
installed
the bearing on top
of the spring/strut incorrectly. That bearing is used
to
allow the strut
to rotate smoothly when turning, if incorrectly
installed you
will get
some noise from the springs under cornering.
PS --- don't forget to get
an alignment.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 10:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: front axles...any options
for a budget?
> I just slapped in my springs and and have found
that the wheels...or
axles
> rather make a clunking noise when I turn
both under power as well as
just
> coasting. I am positive it is
nothing rubbing and everything is torque
and
> tight...even triple
checked my lugs and that's exactly what it sounds
like.
> So I went to
the Norco site and got sticker shock...705 for each axle
> assy....I am
not sure if it may be the inners so the 350 option might
not
> give me
my answer.....It sounds like a bad wheel bearing flopping back
and
>
forth...don't see any evidence of the struts being the issue....99%
sure
its
> not that. So when under power or not under power do the axles
sound
like
> this.....could it be that they were going bad and letting
them pop in
and
> out of the sockets a few times during installation
may have caused the
> 1410.00 fix? I really don't want to go with a
wrecking yard for a
"TEMP" fix
> for 10-20k more on the
odometer....Everything was meticulously placed
on a
> white sheet when
the struts were swapped out with the intrax
springs...is
> this what
the settling sounds like? I would think not...there is
however a
>
slight diameter diff between intrax and stock springs....could the
spring
be
> making this sound under load? its only like 1/4" slop...but the
thing
is
> compressed in there and now the car sitting on
it...everything is rock
> solid...I doubt its the springs....I am thinking
I just ate a 1410.00
set of
> axles.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 07:27:28
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch drag
Alex,
I had the same issue recently.
As the clutch got hotter, the engagement
point got closer to the floor,
sometimes I couldn't get the car in gear.
What I did was; bled the clutch and
adjusted the pedal, works like a charm
now.
Francis
96
RT/TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:pedenkoa@msu.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 1:59 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Clutch
drag
Hey all,
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting so much
clutch drag. I checked
the pedal travel and found it out of spec and fixed
it, but after a
while the problem came back. I completely replaced the fluid
with
Motul600. Still - no effect. The weird thing is that it seems to
get
worse as the clutch heats up. When I first start the car, I can
shift
just fine. After a few stoplights, it starts to get harder and harder
to
get it into first. If I do a hard(er) launch early on, while it
still
shifts normal, it gets much worse right off the bat. I haven't
noticed
any wet spots inside, so if the slave cylinder is leaking, it's
not
noticeable. I haven't had a chance to see if the fluid level in
the
reservoir has dropped to see if there's a leak somewhere in the
system.
Other than that, what can it be and what can I do?
BTW - the
clutch is an RPS stage 2. The shop that put it in did a s**tty
job and never
adjusted the pedal to the changes from the stock clutch to
the
rps.
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
www.kolosy.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 09:06:15
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Radio code
Not all radios need the code though, so maybe
yours doesn't. I have the
graphical display version and it definitely doesn't
have one (out of the car
for 3 weeks, no problem when
reinstalled).
Andre
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Monday,
August 19, 2002 11:35 PM
To: 'Anthony Tse';
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Radio code
The mitsu dealer shouldn't charge you at all! All they do
is take off
the faceplate on the radio (pry it off with a flat blade) and
call in a
code to infinity. I've had mine looked up like 3 or 4 times by
satan,
and always free.
Alex.
'95 Vr4 with a frequently reset
radio
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 09:06:14
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SL ECS Struts
FUP questions then, and sorry if private
responses don't always get
individual responses as all my team3s stuff goes
in the same folder.
1) Are stock ECS Mitsu struts the only way to go? I
can get them for
$125/each locally. Remember, no race use.
2) Are
Eibach the only lowered springs out there? If not, pros and cons
and
costs?
Thx
Andre
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:34:10
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
>> because the starter is disabled, u
need the
>> chip in the key to send the signal again.
There is
no chip in the 1992 factory Stealth key. Nor is there a chip in any
of our
keys that I know of. The action of the key in the lock - door or trunk
(some
models) - deactivates the alarm (ETACS unit).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>;
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda
long
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 09:34:45
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
Mike-
The hatch is part of the system,
along with the hood and doors.
Do a test-see if the the alarm is active
with the green light doesnt come
on-if it doesnt then you probably have
either a lose wire or a short
somewhere that is fooling the alarm.
My
advice would be to pull off the drivers side panel and take a look at the
reciever-check all the connections.
- -Mike
97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 09:50:40
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
I have tried to start the car after the alarm
has gone off, and nothing
happens, the motor will not start at all. The key
must be used in the door
first.
The keys are in fact coded-i only got
one key with the car, so i made a copy
of it and had to take it to Mitsu so
they could code it correctly. My friends
91 camaro 6 cylinder has a coded
key with a chip,so im pretty sure we do.
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:00:30
-0400
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch drag
You might want to check the rubber hose that
connects to the slave
cylinder from the hardline on the firewall. If
you've noticed the level
going down in the CMC, then you may have a leak at
the hose. It's an $8
part, and isn't too bad to replace. Of
course, bleed the system after
you replace it.
Joe K
91 RT/TT
black
Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
>
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting so much clutch drag. I checked
>
the pedal travel and found it out of spec and fixed it, but after a
>
while the problem came back. I completely replaced the fluid with
>
Motul600. Still - no effect. The weird thing is that it seems to get
>
worse as the clutch heats up. When I first start the car, I can shift
>
just fine. After a few stoplights, it starts to get harder and harder to
>
get it into first. If I do a hard(er) launch early on, while it still
>
shifts normal, it gets much worse right off the bat. I haven't noticed
>
any wet spots inside, so if the slave cylinder is leaking, it's not
>
noticeable. I haven't had a chance to see if the fluid level in the
>
reservoir has dropped to see if there's a leak somewhere in the system.
>
Other than that, what can it be and what can I do?
>
> BTW - the
clutch is an RPS stage 2. The shop that put it in did a s**tty
> job and
never adjusted the pedal to the changes from the stock clutch to
> the
rps.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
> '95 VR4
>
>
www.kolosy.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:40:02
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
FWIW my alarm does not shut off by any means
except disconnecting the
battery. I have the master ignition key and a
key FOB. I can put the
key in the driver door and lock/unlock it, I can
start the car with the
key, I can open the hatch with the key, etc. The
alarm still sounds. I
believe I'm the only one with this "feature" and
haven't bothered to
follow the wiring from the alarm circuit to the starter
to see if that
is not working correctly. I just know how the alarm goes
off and try
not to do it (i.e. don't reach through the window to unlock the
car from
the inside).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Anthony Tse
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002
00:24
You don't need a remote. Just use youe key & put it in
the
door's keyhole and turn it. Alarm will shut off.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 07:41:15
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
720 injectors
I had just had them do a bunch of block work and since I
thought them to be almost
new I just wanted them checked for flow and pattern
--- they did it as a favor. I think
the equipment is new to them and thus my
questioning of the results.
Jim Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
>
I'm curious as to why they didn't charge you anything?
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of fastmax
>
>
> Thanks to all respondees [ sorry I had to make up a word ] --- turns
> out I lied about the number on mine --- mine are the
195500-8030
> rather than the 8060 number I posted. Sooo, they should be
720's
> and I need to find out why they were tested at about half that
number.
> They didn't charge for the test so I'm only out information, I
guess a
> call to RC engineering may resolve the issue.
>
> Jim Berry
>
=============================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@MEFAS.com>
>
>
> > I found this site with a pic. Trying to find others.
>
> Damon
> >
http://www.twinturbo.us/720s.html>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 12:15
PM
> > To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: 720 injectors
> >
> >
> > I have a
set of near new injectors that have a Denso part number
> >
195500-0860 and a lite blue top. I was told they were 720 cc but
> > I
had them flow tested [ possible test problems ] and got a flow
> >
number of 396 cc well below the 720 number. They were static
> >
tested on a flow tester with 43 psi. Does anyone know if the number
>
> is correct for 720 injectors.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:48:32
-0400
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SL ECS Struts
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andre
Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
> 1)
Are stock ECS Mitsu struts the only way to go? I can get them for
$125/each
locally. Remember, no race use.
- ------------------------->
Mitsu is
fine. I like KYB ($80-$150/each). The cheap ones are about the
same
feel as the Mitsus (actually, a bit better).
> 2) Are Eibach the
only lowered springs out there? If not, pros and cons
and costs?
-
------------------------->
Intrax will lower you too much (1 3/4" ?),
unless you never go into a raised
driveway... Even with Eibachs (1" -
1.3", depending on how much you cut the
bump stop bushing), I have to
crawl into all but the flattest driveways.
If I go into a driveway faster
than 5mph, I scrape the front. You'll love
the Eibachs, if that's what
you decide...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 07:47:47
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Radio code
Same here --- I was going to ask the question as to which
versions [ I have a
93 TT ] have the code. I've had my battery out for hours
and had no radio problems.
Of course my radio problem was temporarly
cured by puting a roll bar where the rear
speakers
go.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 6:06 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radio
code
> Not all radios need the code though, so maybe yours
doesn't. I have the
> graphical display version and it definitely doesn't
have one (out of the car
> for 3 weeks, no problem when
reinstalled).
>
> Andre
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Alex Pedenko
> Sent:
Monday, August 19, 2002 11:35 PM
> To: 'Anthony Tse';
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Radio code
>
>
> The mitsu dealer shouldn't charge
you at all! All they do is take off
> the faceplate on the radio (pry it
off with a flat blade) and call in a
> code to infinity. I've had mine
looked up like 3 or 4 times by satan,
> and always free.
>
>
Alex.
>
> '95 Vr4 with a frequently reset radio
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:19:02
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Alarm..Kinda long
I remember reading somewhere about this - the key has a
resistor in it.
So if you stick it in, and it's not the right resistance,
technically
the car shouldn't start and the alarm shouldn't disable. But I
may be
wrong...
Alex.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 8:51 AM
To:
jlucius@stealth316.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
I have tried to start the car after the
alarm has gone off, and nothing
happens, the motor will not start at all.
The key must be used in the
door
first.
The keys are in fact
coded-i only got one key with the car, so i made a
copy
of it and had to
take it to Mitsu so they could code it correctly. My
friends
91 camaro 6
cylinder has a coded key with a chip,so im pretty sure we
do.
-
-mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:23:51
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Clutch drag
The thing is - I did that. And it did work... for a while...
Now it's
the same problem all over again. It gradually came back.
I
doubt that the pedal went out of adjustment again. So that leaves a
small
leak in the system... right?
Alex.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Morice, Francis
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 7:27 AM
To: 'Alex Pedenko';
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Clutch drag
Alex,
I had the same issue recently. As the
clutch got hotter, the engagement
point got closer to the floor, sometimes I
couldn't get the car in gear.
What I did was; bled the clutch and adjusted
the pedal, works like a
charm
now.
Francis
96
RT/TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:pedenkoa@msu.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 1:59 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Clutch
drag
Hey all,
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting so much
clutch drag. I checked
the pedal travel and found it out of spec and fixed
it, but after a
while the problem came back. I completely replaced the fluid
with
Motul600. Still - no effect. The weird thing is that it seems to
get
worse as the clutch heats up. When I first start the car, I can
shift
just fine. After a few stoplights, it starts to get harder and harder
to
get it into first. If I do a hard(er) launch early on, while it
still
shifts normal, it gets much worse right off the bat. I haven't
noticed
any wet spots inside, so if the slave cylinder is leaking, it's
not
noticeable. I haven't had a chance to see if the fluid level in
the
reservoir has dropped to see if there's a leak somewhere in the
system.
Other than that, what can it be and what can I do?
BTW - the
clutch is an RPS stage 2. The shop that put it in did a s**tty
job and never
adjusted the pedal to the changes from the stock clutch to
the
rps.
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
www.kolosy.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:26:17
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch drag
Was your clutch fluid reservoir low when the
problem came back? I just did
mine a week ago, so I haven't seen any
changes to the bad again. Not sure
what to tell ya if the reservoir is
still full, sorry.
- -Francis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko [mailto:pedenkoa@msu.edu]
Sent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 10:24 AM
To: Morice, Francis;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Clutch drag
The thing is - I did that. And it did work... for a while...
Now it's
the same problem all over again. It gradually came back.
I
doubt that the pedal went out of adjustment again. So that leaves a
small
leak in the system... right?
Alex.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Morice, Francis
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 7:27 AM
To: 'Alex Pedenko';
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Clutch drag
Alex,
I had the same issue recently. As the
clutch got hotter, the engagement
point got closer to the floor, sometimes I
couldn't get the car in gear.
What I did was; bled the clutch and adjusted
the pedal, works like a
charm
now.
Francis
96 RT/TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:pedenkoa@msu.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 1:59 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Clutch
drag
Hey all,
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting so much
clutch drag. I checked
the pedal travel and found it out of spec and fixed
it, but after a
while the problem came back. I completely replaced the fluid
with
Motul600. Still - no effect. The weird thing is that it seems to
get
worse as the clutch heats up. When I first start the car, I can
shift
just fine. After a few stoplights, it starts to get harder and harder
to
get it into first. If I do a hard(er) launch early on, while it
still
shifts normal, it gets much worse right off the bat. I haven't
noticed
any wet spots inside, so if the slave cylinder is leaking, it's
not
noticeable. I haven't had a chance to see if the fluid level in
the
reservoir has dropped to see if there's a leak somewhere in the
system.
Other than that, what can it be and what can I do?
BTW - the
clutch is an RPS stage 2. The shop that put it in did a s**tty
job and never
adjusted the pedal to the changes from the stock clutch to
the
rps.
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
www.kolosy.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:23:01
-0500
From: "Jim Buckner" <
jimbuckner@multipro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: engine problems
I have a 92 3000GT VR4. It developed a low end
knock, I shut it down
immediately. Probably a rod bearing. I want
a complete rebuild, or buy a
used engine in good shape. Any
recommendations for someone that will
rebuild it right? Don't want to
use Jasper. Please email me at
jimbuckner@multipro.com for
suggestions. Office number 931-277-3831.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:26:57
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch drag
I know this is kinda of stupid questions but did
you overtighten the bleed
screw or maybe not tighten it enough? Also
you may want to check the feed
line to the tranny that was previously
mentioned.
Russ F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Alex Pedenko [SMTP:pedenkoa@msu.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21,
2002 11:24 AM
> To: 'Morice, Francis';
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch drag
>
> The thing is - I did that. And it did
work... for a while... Now it's
> the same problem all over again. It
gradually came back.
>
> I doubt that the pedal went out of
adjustment again. So that leaves a
> small leak in the system...
right?
>
> Alex.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Morice, Francis
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 7:27 AM
> To: 'Alex Pedenko';
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch drag
>
> Alex,
>
> I had the same issue
recently. As the clutch got hotter, the engagement
> point got
closer to the floor, sometimes I couldn't get the car in gear.
> What I
did was; bled the clutch and adjusted the pedal, works like a
>
charm
> now.
>
>
> Francis
> 96
RT/TT
-
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:19:59
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Alarm..Kinda long
No resistor or chip in my 93 setup --- Turning the lock
resets the alarm.
Jim
berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
To: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>; <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 8:19 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda
long
> I remember reading somewhere about this - the key has a
resistor in it.
> So if you stick it in, and it's not the right
resistance, technically
> the car shouldn't start and the alarm shouldn't
disable. But I may be
> wrong...
>
> Alex.
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of
M3000GTSL84@aol.com> Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 8:51 AM
> To:
jlucius@stealth316.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
>
> I have tried to start
the car after the alarm has gone off, and nothing
> happens, the motor
will not start at all. The key must be used in the
> door
>
first.
>
> The keys are in fact coded-i only got one key with the
car, so i made a
> copy
> of it and had to take it to Mitsu so they
could code it correctly. My
> friends
> 91 camaro 6 cylinder has a
coded key with a chip,so im pretty sure we
> do.
>
>
-mike
> 97 SL
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:29:17
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch drag
> The thing is - I did that. And it did work...
for a
> while... Now it's the same problem all over again.
> It
gradually came back.
> I doubt that the pedal went out of adjustment
again.
> So that leaves a small leak in the system... right?
If you
adjusted the clutch rod too far, it can preload
the clutch cylinder and
you'll get good clutch action
for a little while and it'll slowly get
worse. Try
adjusting it back so that the engagement point is closer
to the floor. Set it to a little farther than the
minimum where it
disengages completely, but no more.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:44:16
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
My 1992 Stealth TT does not work this way.
Extra keys I have made start the
car and deactivate the alarm. I have seen
1st gen VR4s deactivate the alarm
using the key in the rear hatch, not the
door. This "chip" feature and "door
first" must be for some newer models.
Another difference between models years
to note somewhere. :)
PS. Did
I miss the "chip link" in the circuit diagrams for 92-96 models for
the door
locks?
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <
jlucius@stealth316.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda
long
I have tried to start the car after the alarm has gone off, and
nothing
happens, the motor will not start at all. The key must be used in
the door
first.
The keys are in fact coded-i only got one key with
the car, so i made a copy
of it and had to take it to Mitsu so they could
code it correctly. My friends
91 camaro 6 cylinder has a coded key with a
chip,so im pretty sure we do.
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:36:21
-0500
From: "Simons, Chris - BUR" <
csimons@wm.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake
Light for Stealth Factory Spoiler
Hey Everybody,
Just a quick
one. Does anyone know where I can get the LED brake light for
the
factory "boomerang" spoiler on the Stealth's. When I bought the
car
last year the light was missing out of the wing. I didn't think it
was a
big deal but it looks so much better with.
Thanks
tons,
Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:41:25
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 720 injectors
FYI,
RC will clean any RC badged
injectors for free for the life of the injector.
I bought some used RC
injectors and sent them in. RC cleaned, stripped the
paint, repainted,
relabeled and sent back to me.
Shipping was my only charge.
I'll
only buy RC injectors because of this.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
>To: "Bill vp"
<
billvp@highstream.net>
>CC:
"team3/S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: 720 injectors
>Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 07:41:15
-0700
>
>I had just had them do a bunch of block work and since I
thought them to be
>almost
>new I just wanted them checked for flow
and pattern --- they did it as a
>favor. I think
>the equipment is
new to them and thus my questioning of the
results.
>
> Jim
Berry
>=====================================================
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
>
>
>
> I'm curious as to why they didn't charge you anything?
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> > Of fastmax
>
>
> >
> > Thanks to all respondees [ sorry I had to make up
a word ] --- turns
> > out I lied about the number on mine --- mine are
the 195500-8030
> > rather than the 8060 number I posted. Sooo, they
should be 720's
> > and I need to find out why they were tested at
about half that number.
> > They didn't charge for the test so I'm only
out information, I guess a
> > call to RC engineering may resolve the
issue.
> >
> >
Jim Berry
> > =============================================
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@MEFAS.com>
> >
>
>
> > > I found this site with a pic. Trying to find
others.
> > > Damon
> > >
http://www.twinturbo.us/720s.html>
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 20,
2002 12:15 PM
> > > To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: Team3S: 720 injectors
> > >
> > >
>
> > I have a set of near new injectors that have a Denso part
number
> > > 195500-0860 and a lite blue top. I was told they were
720 cc but
> > > I had them flow tested [ possible test problems ]
and got a flow
> > > number of 396 cc well below the 720 number.
They were static
> > > tested on a flow tester with 43 psi. Does
anyone know if the number
> > > is correct for 720
injectors.
> > >
> >
> Jim Berry
> >
>
> > >
> > >
> > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________________
Send
and receive Hotmail on your mobile device:
http://mobile.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 09:51:22
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Alarm..Kinda long
My 93 had that problem and I found that the hood sensor
[ passanger side
front ] was misaligned. If I pulled up on the corner of the
hood a little bit the
alarm would go off --- I had to bend the mounting
bracket for the switch.
It could be the door switches
also.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
To: "team3S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 4:46 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda
long
> Another alarming question:
>
> My 92 RT/TT's
alarm will sometimes go off on it's own when the car is
> sitting and
locked. I had it sitting at the airport one week and, while I
> was gone,
it must have honked and flashed so many times, by the time I got
> back,
the battery was dead. Had to get a jump start at 1AM.
>
> I'm
assuming that there is a loose switch somewhere. What should I check -
>
and is the hatch part of the system?
>
> I also notice that
sometimes the green ALARM light in the dash comes on when
> I lock it,
other times it does not.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:21:16
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
What are some inputs from the experts about
having an alignment done on
a car with All-Wheel Steering (AWS)? I
asked my local Firestone about
the lifetime $129 price (discounted to $109
temporarily) and I said I
wanted to make sure it covered my car. I told
him what car and he
nearly laughed me out the door. He said they can't
even DO an alignment
on my car.
I left but then thought how Sears can
do an alignment and they are not a
custom shop (where Firestone is more at
home working on nothing but
tires and alignments and such). Then I
thought if the alignment Sears
did last year was "true" but someone said
Sears chains were bought by
someone else who runs their Automotive
section? Not sure. Right now
they are one of two places near
Pittsburgh, PA who say they can do my
car.
So I ask - if the AWS does
not physically move until a certain speed
(somewhere around 30, 32, 35 mph)
then how does anyone know that these
wheels move when the car is sitting
still on a rack? Also, the camber
can be changed easily in the rear so
they put this to factory setting
but is that all that can be done at zero
speed alignments? Not until
the car gets past 35 mph AND the steering
wheel is turned a certain
degree AND (maybe) a sideways G-force is induced on
the sensors in the
rear will the tires steer their prescribed angle.
But since nobody
aligns cars at speed why are so many people balking at an
alignment job
on my car.
The Firestone guy said that driveshafts need
uncoupled, etc. I let him
say his peace but I don't think it needs all
that - and no, the local
dealer does not do alignments but refer to a guy who
does them manually
(sights them in and doesn't let the computer program tell
him when it is
correct - of course - he can also put it out of spec such as
negative
camber in the rear so this might be useful down the road).
At
Sears they could not find my car and I told them to look up a Dodge
Stealth
in their computer program. Still, it did not expressly indicate
any
information for the rear of the car. The technician punched up a
1984
Honda Prelude (or whatever year they had the 4WS) and showed me how
their
program detailed the numbers for the rear section. I sighed and
since
they had it all setup I let them align it. It felt great
afterwards but
I'm thinking they might not have done a true 4-wheel
thrust alignment taking
into account the rear steering and might have
done a run-of-the-mill 4-wheel
alignment.
The dealer installed two front KYB struts after finding out
the stock
ones were blown/leaking/in need of replacing. They did not
align it or
offer to pay for it or refer me. I had to ask.
$#$(@)*_#*$_#*@ And I
would feel better knowing the new struts are in
alignment and set
correctly before I wear out a set of tires like I've seen
others on the
list go through. I don't think my dealer would pay for a
set of tires
worn out prematurely from bad alignment.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 and new front struts
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:28:00
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Light for Stealth Factory Spoiler
Chris,
Isn't it
also mandatory for this light to work for the car to get
inspected? I
know in PA you would get a stern warning from the
inspection station if a
normal brake light is out and they might pass
but make you come back in a
week or two and verify that it was fixed.
Not certain about the third
light. Then again, I see enough cars with
bad wiring that the third
light is always on and goes OUT when the
brakes are activated. Cops let
them go so maybe they have bigger fish
to fry.
And I don't know if Pep
Boys, etc. has brake lights as easily as they
have headlights. You stop
in the aisle and punch some info on the
keypad or look in the catalog for
lights and they give you headlights,
side marker lights, footwell lights,
hood lights, tail lights. They
might have the high-mounted light
listed.
Or if you get the light out and see it is a 25W bulb then just
take that
in and ask for a replacement. I am guessing it is quite a
standard
light. There are millions of cars with them so it shouldn't be
too
hard.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Simons, Chris - BUR
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 12:36
Hey
Everybody,
Just a quick one. Does anyone know where I can get the
LED brake light
for the factory "boomerang" spoiler on the Stealth's.
When I bought the
car last year the light was missing out of the wing.
I didn't think it
was a big deal but it looks so much better
with.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:31:36
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
Also, I think there was a certain sequence
needed. Like the alarm goes
off and you have to unlock the driver's
door first and then close the
door and then start the car. Not, open
the driver's door, start the
car, close the driver's door. Or maybe,
open the hood to set off the
alarm and try and start the car - no good - open
the hood to set off the
alarm then the hood must be closed and latched and
THEN you can start
the car to shut it off.
Can anyone verify
this? Where the hatch or hood or door needs to be
shut first before
starting the car to turn off the alarm? Maybe I'll go
to an open
parking lot this week and try all the scenarios.
By the time I try and
think through which two steps I've done and start
over to do it the right way
I have the hood popped and the terminal off
the battery and the alarm
stops. Terminal back on before any radio
settings are lost and I'm good
to go.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Lucius
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 11:44
My 1992 Stealth TT does
not work this way. Extra keys I have made start
the
car and deactivate
the alarm. I have seen 1st gen VR4s deactivate the
alarm
using the key in
the rear hatch, not the door. This "chip" feature and
"door
first" must
be for some newer models. Another difference between models
years
to note
somewhere. :)
PS. Did I miss the "chip link" in the circuit diagrams for
92-96 models
for
the door locks?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 12:39:53
-0500
From: "Simons, Chris - BUR" <
csimons@wm.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brake Light for Stealth Factory Spoiler
Darren, thanks for the
response.
I don't think it's mandatory because the spoiler is an
accessory. I know
it's pretty easy to get a third brake light that
would attach to my rear
windshield, but I'm not sure about the actual spoiler
light. There is
nothing there right now so I don't have anything to
take off and bring in.
I guess I can measure the void in the
spoiler where the light is supposed to
be and buy one based on the
measurements......What do ya think?
Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 1:28 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Light for Stealth Factory
Spoiler
Chris,
Isn't it also mandatory for this light to work
for the car to get
inspected? I know in PA you would get a stern
warning from the
inspection station if a normal brake light is out and they
might pass
but make you come back in a week or two and verify that it was
fixed.
Not certain about the third light. Then again, I see enough cars
with
bad wiring that the third light is always on and goes OUT when
the
brakes are activated. Cops let them go so maybe they have bigger
fish
to fry.
And I don't know if Pep Boys, etc. has brake lights as
easily as they
have headlights. You stop in the aisle and punch some
info on the
keypad or look in the catalog for lights and they give you
headlights,
side marker lights, footwell lights, hood lights, tail
lights. They
might have the high-mounted light listed.
Or if you
get the light out and see it is a 25W bulb then just take that
in and ask for
a replacement. I am guessing it is quite a standard
light. There
are millions of cars with them so it shouldn't be too
hard.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Simons, Chris -
BUR
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 12:36
Hey Everybody,
Just
a quick one. Does anyone know where I can get the LED brake light
for
the factory "boomerang" spoiler on the Stealth's. When I bought the
car
last year the light was missing out of the wing. I didn't think it
was
a big deal but it looks so much better with.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:49:26
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Light for Stealth Factory Spoiler
Chris.
Wait - you
need the little red piece of plastic for the spoiler or the
lightbulb?
I thought you needed the lightbulb. The brake light itself
would need
to be from M&S Recycling or a junk yard or a dealer as a
guess.
I
didn't know the spoiler was an option. I know that the 1996
Stealth
rear spoiler is the only change they made (it curves up just
slightly).
I thought it was standard on the R/T and R/T TT.
Thanks.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Simons,
Chris - BUR [mailto:csimons@wm.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002
13:40
Darren, thanks for the response.
I don't think it's
mandatory because the spoiler is an accessory. I
know it's pretty easy
to get a third brake light that would attach to my
rear windshield, but I'm
not sure about the actual spoiler light. There
is nothing there right
now so I don't have anything to take off and
bring in.
I guess
I can measure the void in the spoiler where the light is
supposed to be and
buy one based on the measurements......What do ya
think?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Simons, Chris - BUR
Sent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 12:36
Hey Everybody,
Just a quick one. Does
anyone know where I can get the LED brake light
for the factory "boomerang"
spoiler on the Stealth's. When I bought the
car last year the light was
missing out of the wing. I didn't think it
was a big deal but it looks
so much better with.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:06:02
-0500
From: "Simons, Chris - BUR" <
csimons@wm.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brake Light for Stealth Factory Spoiler
Just found out $350 Cdn or $200
US from the dealer......OUCH!
Is there another way? Would a light
assembly from a different spoiler work
as long as it fits?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 1:49 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Light for Stealth Factory
Spoiler
Chris.
Wait - you need the little red piece of plastic
for the spoiler or the
lightbulb? I thought you needed the
lightbulb. The brake light itself
would need to be from M&S
Recycling or a junk yard or a dealer as a
guess.
I didn't know the
spoiler was an option. I know that the 1996 Stealth
rear spoiler is the
only change they made (it curves up just slightly).
I thought it was standard
on the R/T and R/T TT. Thanks.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Simons, Chris - BUR [mailto:csimons@wm.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 13:40
Darren, thanks for the
response.
I don't think it's mandatory because the spoiler is an
accessory. I
know it's pretty easy to get a third brake light that
would attach to my
rear windshield, but I'm not sure about the actual spoiler
light. There
is nothing there right now so I don't have anything to
take off and
bring in.
I guess I can measure the void in the
spoiler where the light is
supposed to be and buy one based on the
measurements......What do ya
think?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Simons, Chris - BUR
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002
12:36
Hey Everybody,
Just a quick one. Does anyone know
where I can get the LED brake light
for the factory "boomerang" spoiler on
the Stealth's. When I bought the
car last year the light was missing
out of the wing. I didn't think it
was a big deal but it looks so much
better with.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:32:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Light for Stealth Factory Spoiler
Chris,
Well unless
Canada has a law governing the brightness, color, tint,
reflectivity (is that
a word), etc. then you can just get a red tail
light from any car in a
junkyard, cut it to fit, glue it in place, and
presto you have a custom
spoiler tail light (should this be called a
spoiler light then?).
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Simons, Chris -
BUR
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 14:06
Just found out $350 Cdn or
$200 US from the dealer......OUCH!
Is there another way? Would a
light assembly from a different spoiler
work as long as it fits?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Simons, Chris - BUR [mailto:csimons@wm.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 13:58
I apologize for not being
clear, yes it is the the red lens that I need.
Stealth's are pretty tough to
find here in Ontario, Canada especially in
a junk yard.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:01:42
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
terrible brake fade
Its been uncommenly hot in NJ here for a few weeks,
and my cars brakes have
been getting much worse.
The pads are fine,
the rotars were cut just once-i will change the fluid but
i doubt that will
help much. I need my fade to reduce, what can i do? im
open to
aftermarket suggestions.
Would putting VR-4 brakes on my SL help? I
almost crushed the front end of my
car today because my brakes werent there.
. .any1 with an N/A have this
problem and solve it?
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:18:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
Mike,
I sold my stock
VR-4 front calipers to a friend in VA Beach and he
will be installing them to
his first gen auto (SL) soon. He can give
you more information.
The only thing he was required to change was to a
VR-4 knuckle I think.
I'll try to bug him to get that page of install
notes
completed.
But that is not the only option. What pads do
you have? What fluid
do you have? What rotors do you have?
I have seen good results from
just a set of Porterfield R4-S pads from our
own Geoff Mohler. I use
those with my Big Reds and they work quite well
and don't dust as much
as other brands. Maybe you just need to bleed
out the old fluid. What
does it look like? Maybe your brake pedal
needs to have more travel in
it.
I took my Big Reds and R4-S
pads (and Motul 600 fluid) to the track
last time with the 4,200 pound car
and never saw brake fade so I doubt
it is as bad as you think. I doubt
you have gotten your fluid hot
enough to boil so I would look at pads first
and then rotors (since
rotors were recently turned) and then at fluid and
then brake lines and
THEN calipers. I think that is in price order
too.
Did you ever bed-in your current pads or rotor when they
were new or
freshly cut? How long have they been on the car? What
do the pads or
rotor look like?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
and R4-S pads for the street
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 16:02
Its been uncommenly hot in NJ here for a few weeks,
and my cars brakes
have
been getting much worse.
The pads are
fine, the rotars were cut just once-i will change the fluid
but
i doubt
that will help much. I need my fade to reduce, what can i do?
im
open to
aftermarket suggestions.
Would putting VR-4 brakes on my SL help? I
almost crushed the front end
of my
car today because my brakes werent
there. . .any1 with an N/A have this
problem and solve
it?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:13:14
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: terrible brake fade
Do you have brake fade or no
pedal?
When pads get hot and fade, you can stand on the brakes and they
won't stop. You have plenty of pedal, but it won't stop.
If your pedal
goes to the floor, then you probably have fluid problems. If you pump the brakes
and the pedal comes back, then it's air in your lines. A good brake bleeding
should fix that.
These problems occur whilst racing. Your problem appears
to be happening on the street.
I had a similar problem to yours with with
my 91 Talon. I could stand on the brakes, but they wouldn't stop the car. Turned
out the brake calipers were all corroded, and I only had about 50% brake
capacity. When we pulled the wheels off, you could see that the rotors were
wearing unevenly -- so bad, that the back side of the rotors were still rusty.
If you see rust anywhere on the braking surface of your rotors, it means the
pads are not making contact.
I don't think ambient temperature has
anything to do with it.
Rich/slow old poop
At 04:01 PM 8/21/02
EDT,
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
wrote:
>Its been uncommenly hot in NJ here for a few weeks, and my cars
brakes have
>been getting much worse. The pads are fine, the rotars were
cut just once-i will change the fluid but doubt that will help much. I need my
fade to reduce, what can i do? im
>open to aftermarket
suggestions.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:22:46
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: terrible brake fade
I drive an SL in Arizona heat at high
rates of speed (I live in the country
but work in the city) I do practice
stops from 130MPH with little problem.
Even repeated high-speed stops don't
produce much fade. I do feel some
flexing of the front suspension during
these heavy braking episodes but my
car has 150K stock miles on it and needs
struts.
93 3Ksl autobox stocker.
Pete Rivenburg
Analyst
Applications, ISD
First American Title
Phoenix,
AZ
(602) 685-7523
Privenburg@firstam.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:45:24
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
Ive only had to use my ABS twice. . .but when
i have the brakes fade after
the stop is over. Even when not stopping short.
. .driving for over and hour
will make the brakes require more
effort.
THe fluid needs to be changed
The pads are maybe 6,000 miles
old
The discs are wearing evenly
the calipers are also ok it seems. . .the
car has 54,000 miles on it.
I have 245/45 ZR-17 wheels on there. . .And
i can feel the brakes just lose
it more and more. . more pressure is
required, though pedal travel is smooth
and even. It feels like the fronts
are the trouble areas.
THere are stock 97 rims on the car. . Flash these
are your track rims i
believe. i do not race the car, nor do i ride the
brakes. I run it hard, but
i always brake evenly.
I would rather
spend the $$ on upgrades then on insurance.
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:36:00
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
Mike,
Yep, I use the 97
SL wheels for the track shown here with comment
added by Chuck Willis' wife
(
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/HPT_32_1.jpg)
and
255/45/17 track tires so essentially the same setup. In fact, the
first
open track day (get acquainted with your car day) was with stock
brakes
too. These are Rich Merritt's old wheels so he too used them for
the
track.
Fluid will make a difference if you bleed it out.
Pads seem good.
Rotors seem good. Calipers seem good. You can use
more bite on the
pads I bet so look into setting aside some money for the
Porterfield
R4-S pads. Then you MUST bed them in properly or they will
wear
prematurely or not give as good of performance as they should.
-
--Flash!
Flash95vr4 on AIM
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2002 16:45
Ive only had to use my ABS twice. . .but when i
have the brakes fade
after
the stop is over. Even when not stopping
short. . .driving for over and
hour
will make the brakes require more
effort.
THe fluid needs to be changed
The pads are maybe 6,000 miles
old
The discs are wearing evenly
the calipers are also ok it seems. . .the
car has 54,000 miles on it.
I have 245/45 ZR-17 wheels on there. . .And
i can feel the brakes just
lose
it more and more. . more pressure is
required, though pedal travel is
smooth
and even. It feels like the
fronts are the trouble areas.
THere are stock 97 rims on the car. . Flash
these are your track rims i
believe. i do not race the car, nor do i ride
the brakes. I run it hard,
but
i always brake evenly.
I would
rather spend the $$ on upgrades then on insurance.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:46:39
-0500
From: "527josh" <
527josh@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Door
lock problems
Anyone ever replace a door lock actuator? My car
seems possessed: when I
use the key to unlock the passenger side door;
it will quickly relock the
door so the only way I can open the door is to
turn the key and quickly lift
up on the handle. (this results in the
factory alarm going off about 1/2
the time) I've heard that this is a
somewhat common problem and that it's
probably the door lock actuator, but I
don't see how to swap it out without
completely disassembling the door and
window track. Then again, I'm not
sure if it's the problem at all,
because sometimes when you hit the door
lock button on the drivers door, the
locks will cycle. I've already tried
reseating the wire loom connector
in the door hinge area, but no joy. Any
suggestions?
Thanks.
Josh
97 3000GT SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:04:30
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
The service manual tells how to make the
alignment adjustments. Page 34-25
on the Vinny's CD version.
The 4WS
system exerts no force on the suspension when it's not activated--so
to make
sure it isn't, you disconnect the 4WS tie rod end from the trailing
arms
before adjusting rear camber and toe. Once those adjustments are made,
you
adjust the length of the 4WS tie rods so that the bolt falls into the
hole in
the trailing arms. (This assumes that the 4WS system is working--the
manual
tells how to check that also, by running over 50 mph on the lift and
turning
the steering wheel. G-forces are not part of this system.)
On my cars the
rear has never been far enough out to require adjusting the
4WS tie-rod
length.
I have a great local tire store with a Hunter alignment rack and
an
excellent mechanic. The VR4 is in that computer. The first time I took
my
car in I printed out the appropriate manual pages for him. It does help
to
have a mechanic who'll take time to get the car on spec, but this
really
isn't rocket science. I've had both my VR4s aligned several times
and
there's never been a problem (except for running out adjustment for
the
negative camber I want to put on the front!). I've done pre and
post-track
alignments and--much to my surprise--the car is always spot-on
after a
weekend of opentracking.
By the way, my shop charges a flat
rate of $49 for four-wheel alignments! He
says some cars they can knock out
quickly, others take longer but it all
balances out.
-
-------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink
95
VR4
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
Reply-To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> Date:
Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:21:16 -0400
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
>
> What are some inputs from
the experts about having an alignment done on
> a car with All-Wheel
Steering (AWS)? I asked my local Firestone about
> the lifetime $129
price (discounted to $109 temporarily) and I said I
> wanted to make sure
it covered my car. I told him what car and he
> nearly laughed me
out the door. He said they can't even DO an alignment
> on my
car.
>
> I left but then thought how Sears can do an alignment and
they are not a
> custom shop (where Firestone is more at home working on
nothing but
> tires and alignments and such). Then I thought if the
alignment Sears
> did last year was "true" but someone said Sears chains
were bought by
> someone else who runs their Automotive section? Not
sure. Right now
> they are one of two places near Pittsburgh, PA who
say they can do my
> car.
>
> So I ask - if the AWS does not
physically move until a certain speed
> (somewhere around 30, 32, 35 mph)
then how does anyone know that these
> wheels move when the car is sitting
still on a rack? Also, the camber
> can be changed easily in the
rear so they put this to factory setting
> but is that all that can be
done at zero speed alignments? Not until
> the car gets past 35 mph
AND the steering wheel is turned a certain
> degree AND (maybe) a sideways
G-force is induced on the sensors in the
> rear will the tires steer their
prescribed angle. But since nobody
> aligns cars at speed why are so
many people balking at an alignment job
> on my car.
>
> The
Firestone guy said that driveshafts need uncoupled, etc. I let him
>
say his peace but I don't think it needs all that - and no, the local
>
dealer does not do alignments but refer to a guy who does them manually
>
(sights them in and doesn't let the computer program tell him when it is
>
correct - of course - he can also put it out of spec such as negative
>
camber in the rear so this might be useful down the road).
>
> At
Sears they could not find my car and I told them to look up a Dodge
>
Stealth in their computer program. Still, it did not expressly
indicate
> any information for the rear of the car. The technician
punched up a
> 1984 Honda Prelude (or whatever year they had the 4WS) and
showed me how
> their program detailed the numbers for the rear
section. I sighed and
> since they had it all setup I let them align
it. It felt great
> afterwards but I'm thinking they might not have
done a true 4-wheel
> thrust alignment taking into account the rear
steering and might have
> done a run-of-the-mill 4-wheel
alignment.
>
> The dealer installed two front KYB struts after
finding out the stock
> ones were blown/leaking/in need of
replacing. They did not align it or
> offer to pay for it or refer
me. I had to ask. $#$(@)*_#*$_#*@ And I
> would feel
better knowing the new struts are in alignment and set
> correctly before
I wear out a set of tires like I've seen others on the
> list go
through. I don't think my dealer would pay for a set of tires
> worn
out prematurely from bad alignment.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
and new front struts
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:21:10
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
But these $50 alignments that I hear about
have the techs disconnecting
the tie rods and making camber then toe
adjustments and putting the tie
rods back? All for $50? And this
includes running the car to 50 mph
while on the lift to make sure the rear
wheels turn or is that only for
diagnostic and troubleshooting?
Okay,
so I know to look for a Hunter alignment machine. Can a
non-Hunter
brand machine download or upload the VR-4 program? And who
knows of a
reputable mechanic within a reasonable distance to
Pittsburgh, PA
(lower-left-ish corner of PA)? So far I know Jim in CA,
Chuck in TX,
and Cody in the Midwest. There is one guy around here but
I am fairly
certain he will be more than $50 and he doesn't use a
machine but does it
manually I hear.
Great to know it has been spot on after a track
weekend. My problem is
that I have new front struts on the car so I
know it isn't perfect. It
might be close but I don't want to ruin the
set of tires that are going
on in a few months and the dealer did not feel
the need to pay for the
alignment after they installed the struts.
I
did read the manual today but it was on section 37B under the
4WS
side.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim
Elferdink [mailto:macintosh@sunra.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002
18:05
The service manual tells how to make the alignment adjustments.
Page
34-25 on the Vinny's CD version.
The 4WS system exerts no force
on the suspension when it's not
activated--so to make sure it isn't, you
disconnect the 4WS tie rod end
from the trailing arms before adjusting rear
camber and toe. Once those
adjustments are made, you adjust the length of the
4WS tie rods so that
the bolt falls into the hole in the trailing arms. (This
assumes that
the 4WS system is working--the manual tells how to check that
also, by
running over 50 mph on the lift and turning the steering wheel.
G-forces
are not part of this system.)
On my cars the rear has never
been far enough out to require adjusting
the 4WS tie-rod length.
I
have a great local tire store with a Hunter alignment rack and an
excellent
mechanic. The VR4 is in that computer. The first time I took
my car in I
printed out the appropriate manual pages for him. It does
help to have a
mechanic who'll take time to get the car on spec, but
this really isn't
rocket science. I've had both my VR4s aligned several
times and there's never
been a problem (except for running out
adjustment for the negative camber I
want to put on the front!). I've
done pre and post-track alignments and--much
to my surprise--the car is
always spot-on after a weekend of
opentracking.
By the way, my shop charges a flat rate of $49 for
four-wheel
alignments! He says some cars they can knock out quickly, others
take
longer but it all balances out.
Jim Elferdink
95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:26:17
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
And I assume the 4WS light will glow if the
car knows this is not
working properly so usually there is no need to run the
car at speed on
a lift, correct? It would be neat to watch it all move
just once
though. I only have one picture of my Big Reds through the
spokes and
that is from Eric Bowden on our way back from the Cape Cod
October
Quickening last year - the Mitsu logo on the center cap is
even
perfectly aligned.
http://gatherings.3si.org/Quickening2001/image218.html-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Elferdink
[mailto:macintosh@sunra.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002
18:05
(This assumes that the 4WS system is working--the manual tells how
to
check that also, by running over 50 mph on the lift and turning
the
steering wheel. G-forces are not part of this
system.)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:47:22
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
I believe the 4WS light only comes on
when power steering fluid is low (as
measured at the power steering reservoir
under the hood). There are no
other electrical components in the
system, the 4WS function is entirely
hydraulic (signals from the front rack
with activation from high pressure
oil pump off rear differential all
controlled by simple hydraulic control
valve).
Joe G.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "'Team
3S--Post'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 6:26 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Alignment on AWS
car
> And I assume the 4WS light will glow if the car knows this
is not
> working properly so usually there is no need to run the car at
speed on
> a lift, correct? It would be neat to watch it all move
just once
> though. I only have one picture of my Big Reds through
the spokes and
> that is from Eric Bowden on our way back from the Cape
Cod October
> Quickening last year - the Mitsu logo on the center cap is
even
> perfectly aligned.
>
>
http://gatherings.3si.org/Quickening2001/image218.html>
>
--Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Elferdink
[mailto:macintosh@sunra.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002
18:05
>
> (This assumes that the 4WS system is working--the manual
tells how to
> check that also, by running over 50 mph on the lift and
turning the
> steering wheel. G-forces are not part of this
system.)
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:49:58
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
No, the alignment didn't include the 4WS
test. I did do it once myself at
home on jack stands because I just *had* to
see it work! It did!
Some of the benefits of living out here in the
boondocks 300 miles north of
San Francisco are low prices and some good ol'
honest mechanics. Yes, he did
disconnect the tie rods and he doesn't care if
I look over his shoulder the
whole time. (I've watched him do it so many
times I could probably do it
myself by now!) He actually loves to see me come
in because the car is more
interesting than almost anything else he works
on--and clean, to boot!
- -------------------------------------------
Jim
Elferdink
95 VR4
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
Reply-To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> Date:
Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:21:10 -0400
> To: "'Team 3S--Post'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
>
> But these $50
alignments that I hear about have the techs disconnecting
> the tie rods
and making camber then toe adjustments and putting the tie
> rods
back? All for $50? And this includes running the car to 50
mph
> while on the lift to make sure the rear wheels turn or is that only
for
> diagnostic and troubleshooting?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:15:11
-0700
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: front axles.....I am edimacated
Those holes that are suposed to
be in line were 120-140 deg out....it even
fits better now...thank you Cody
for the advice...no axles for me to
purchase now...if I ever meet you remind
me and I will buy you a
beer/whatever.
Technical side......As most of
you already know and as I found out today
there are holes (8mm) that need to
be aligned up....not just the flat in the
spacer and call it good....if not
it will make noise like your axles are
gone away. 1410 for those who want to
know what axles run. So thanks to all
for the advise and like have mentioned
earlier..ss brake lines are very
responsive..almost like you hit a cat when
you touch them...the 6 puck cluth
is unforgiving but I like the high rev rpm
start difference benifit I can
already notice. I would suggest a second pair
of eyes when doing springs....
bobk.
9399R/T
intrax,cusco rear
strut bar,ss lines......among other things
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:25:12
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Chalk Another Success Up to the Krankvent
I installed my
Krankvents (
http://www.krankvent.com/)
on my VR-4 this
weekend and NO MORE leaky oil cap.
Sweet!
Previously, my oil cap on my 1995 VR-4 leaked a small amount of
oil. Not
terribly much, but enough that if I didn't wipe the area below
the oil cap
every few days or so, it'd drip oil down onto the front exhaust
manifold and
heat shield. This apparently had been going on for some
time before I
bought the car because the heat shield had some residue on it
when I bought
it. What really annoyed me was that on hot days with the
windows down, I
could smell the burning oil every time I stopped/idled the
car. Yuck.
I had replaced my PCV valve with a new OEM one, tried 3
different oil caps
(2 OEM and 1 GReddy), and even swapped my front valve
cover with a known
good one. After the valve cover swap and the new OEM
cap, the leaking was
minimal, but after 3 months, I think it was starting to
return.
Now, after installing the Krankvent, I can even put the GReddy
cap on there
with no leaking at all. Previously, the GReddy had leaked
the worst of the
three caps. IMHO, money well spent. Oh and
there's a 3Si discount, too!
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with non-leaky oil cap
mod
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:24:42
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Saner Rear Anti-Sway Bar Installed
As I posted last week, I had
my rear anti-sway bar replaced with the thicker
Saner one on Friday
afternoon. Quick recap of suspension modifications,
starting with stock
'95 VR-4:
- -------------------------------------------------
Saner
Front Anti-Sway Bar:
The suspension definitely feels tighter and there's
definitely a little more
"road feel" (vibration) transmitted to the
chassis. The car definitely has
more grip in corners, and it is flatter
as it corners. There is a little
more force on the steering wheel
trying to center the wheel while cornering,
but this isn't nearly the
difference in steering input that a front strut
tower brace alone
makes. There is a noticeable shift toward understeer
under most
conditions, but it's only *really* noticeable when
driving
aggressively. Normal driving is almost the same except for more
grip. The
car seems a little more reluctant to rotate at turn-in and
the car seems to
rotate less overall during the turn (is that a negative yaw
angle?) Can
definitely feel more lateral weight transfer on the front
tires and on a
sharp turn-in (esp. on uneven surface) I can chirp the front
outside tire.
- -------------------------------------------------
TEC
Front Strut Tower Brace:
More precision feel to the steering. Overall
steering effort increased, but
not too much. Less chassis flex, and
ever-so-slightly more road vibration.
Car feels pretty tight and
responsive.
-
-------------------------------------------------
And now for the
Saner Rear Anti-Sway Bar
-
-------------------------------------------------
Holy crap! This is
cool :-) Steering effort is reduced, but the steering
is more
responsive. Car rotates more quickly and naturally at turn-in.
Really
nice grip in the corners. Almost unnerving what it will hold now -
way
past my current driving ability. I haven't pushed it to the point
where
the tires will lose grip (yet) because I don't think that's safe on
the
street - even on a deserted road. I'll have to get it out on the
track to
see which end frees up first, but it feels really good now for any
driving I
care to do on the street. Can't wait to get the rear strut
tower brace
installed :-) Oh, and slightly more road vibration from the
rear chassis,
but not anything annoying by any means.
-
-------------------------------------------------
Installation of the
rear bar:
- -------------------------------------------------
It
sucked. Not as bad as the front, but I can't imagine doing it without
a
lift. At one point, the only things that held my rear subframe to the
car
were the brake lines and the 4WS lines. Don't have the "I'll only
unbolt
what I NEED to" attitude - just unbolt EVERYTHING and be done with
it. Book
says 2.3 hours (what I paid for) and it took 4.5 hours with an
average of 2
mechanics working and me taking pictures, pointing, and asking
questions. I
requested that they cut the spacing rings provided with
the endlinks so that
there would be adequate clearance between the bolt on
the top of the endlink
and the nuts on the axel shaft flange. Other
than that, it was pretty
straight-forward once you figure out how to get the
@#$% stock bar out.
It's in and that's all I care about :-)
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4 with bars everywhere
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 19:59:43
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Alignment on AWS car
I've always wanted to have someone drive the
car on the jackstands while
I took video of the rear wheels steering. I
can't bring myself to do it
though.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jim Elferdink [mailto:macintosh@sunra.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 18:50
No, the alignment didn't include the 4WS
test. I did do it once myself
at home on jack stands because I just *had* to
see it work! It did!
Some of the benefits of living out here in the
boondocks 300 miles north
of San Francisco are low prices and some good ol'
honest mechanics. Yes,
he did disconnect the tie rods and he doesn't care if
I look over his
shoulder the whole time. (I've watched him do it so many
times I could
probably do it myself by now!) He actually loves to see me come
in
because the car is more interesting than almost anything else he
works
on--and clean, to boot!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:26:02
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Krankvent hp increase?
I noticed that the Krankvent web site
claims a 3-7% horsepower increase. On
our cars that means 9 to 22 hp on
a all stock TT or VR-4 car. That would be
about the equivelent of a
K&N FIPK.
Can anyone confirm this?
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:56:27
-0600
From: "The Hedonist" <
rboehner@dimensional.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Part number wanted
Can some kind soul send me the Part
number
for the radio mast? I have tried to d/l the caps stuff
four times
and it always comes in corrupted.
My car is a :
94
vr4
Thanks!
Roger
Voulez-vous coucher avec moi ce
soir?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 20:27:56
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Part number wanted
try 85027.
I'm not an expert at the CAPS
program though.
The CAPS works great if you provide the
VIN.
Rich
> Can some kind soul send me the Part number
>
for the radio mast? I have tried to d/l the caps stuff
> four times and it
always comes in corrupted.
>
> My car is a :
>
> 94
vr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 22:45:40
-0400
From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
So I hear support for Porterfield RS-4.
What about Hawk HPS. Both are
"light racing/street" pads and both have
fitments for the VR-4. Anybody
used both and prefer one over the other
for some reason. I want to switch
pads and fluid in the next couple of
weeks
Also - looks like I'm going to get a set of 265x35x18 Kumho Ecsta
V700 for
autocross and track instruction. First track day reservations
made for
Moroso (FL) with Chin Motorsports out of Orlando (NSX based
group). Anybody
want to talk me into something other than the
Kumho? Sorry, I'm stuck with
18s at least for a while.
older
bob
(g8rbob)
'99VR-4
- ----------
>From: "Darren Schilberg"
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: terrible brake fade
>Date: Wed, Aug 21, 2002, 5:36
PM
>
> Mike,
>
> Yep, I use the 97
SL wheels for the track shown here with comment
> added by Chuck Willis'
wife (
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/HPT_32_1.jpg)
>
and 255/45/17 track tires so essentially the same setup. In fact,
the
> first open track day (get acquainted with your car day) was with
stock
> brakes too. These are Rich Merritt's old wheels so he too
used them for
> the track.
> Fluid will make a
difference if you bleed it out. Pads seem good.
> Rotors seem
good. Calipers seem good. You can use more bite on the
> pads
I bet so look into setting aside some money for the Porterfield
> R4-S
pads. Then you MUST bed them in properly or they will wear
>
prematurely or not give as good of performance as they should.
>
>
--Flash!
> Flash95vr4 on AIM
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com> Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 16:45
>
> Ive only had to use my ABS
twice. . .but when i have the brakes fade
> after
> the stop is
over. Even when not stopping short. . .driving for over and
> hour
>
will make the brakes require more effort.
>
> THe fluid needs to be
changed
> The pads are maybe 6,000 miles old
> The discs are wearing
evenly
> the calipers are also ok it seems. . .the car has 54,000 miles on
it.
>
> I have 245/45 ZR-17 wheels on there. . .And i can feel the
brakes just
> lose
> it more and more. . more pressure is required,
though pedal travel is
> smooth
> and even. It feels like the fronts
are the trouble areas.
>
> THere are stock 97 rims on the car. .
Flash these are your track rims i
> believe. i do not race the car, nor do
i ride the brakes. I run it hard,
> but
> i always brake
evenly.
>
> I would rather spend the $$ on upgrades then on
insurance.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 22:57:35
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
Bob,
1. I have not used the Hawk HPS
pad yet.
2. Geoff Mohler on our list sells Porterfields.
3. He includes
the Team 3/S discount.
4. He uses them on his own car.
5. He used them on
his VR-4 (and on his other cars I think).
6. I've not seen the Hawk HPS and
Big Reds yet and don't want to be the
guinea pig.
As far as tire I
recommend nothing more than the Kumho Victoracer for
AutoX. Next would
be the Yokohama Advan 032. Others have their own
recommendations
though. I have only used these two tires and they hold
up quite
well.
Keep us posted on the results.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: bob atkins
Sent: Wednesday, August 21,
2002 22:46
So I hear support for Porterfield RS-4. What about Hawk
HPS. Both are
"light racing/street" pads and both have fitments for
the VR-4. Anybody
used both and prefer one over the other for some
reason. I want to
switch pads and fluid in the next couple of
weeks
Also - looks like I'm going to get a set of 265x35x18 Kumho Ecsta
V700
for autocross and track instruction. First track day reservations
made
for Moroso (FL) with Chin Motorsports out of Orlando (NSX based
group).
Anybody want to talk me into something other than the Kumho?
Sorry, I'm
stuck with 18s at least for a while.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 23:16:50
-0400
From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
Calling Geoff Mohler - I need some
pads. Send me an e-mail thanks
Unfortunately, neither the
victoracer nor the A032 come in 18" sizes
as for results, TEIN HA and
oversized rims with greater than 0.25 offset
change from stock (I'm running
18x9, 38mm) put me into Street Prepared Class
B, SCCA SoloII
(autoCross). That class has the vettes, supras and nissan
z's, a few
ferraris and others if they showed up. I'm holding my own - on
street
tires - just wanna get better. Got a class victory Sunday. 2nd
this
year.
http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autocrosstrim.jpgolder
bob
(g8rbob)
'99VR-4
- ----------
>From: "Darren
Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: terrible brake fade
>Date: Wed, Aug 21, 2002, 10:57
PM
>
> Bob,
>
> 1. I have not used the Hawk HPS pad
yet.
> 2. Geoff Mohler on our list sells Porterfields.
> 3. He
includes the Team 3/S discount.
> 4. He uses them on his own car.
>
5. He used them on his VR-4 (and on his other cars I think).
> 6. I've not
seen the Hawk HPS and Big Reds yet and don't want to be the
> guinea
pig.
>
> As far as tire I recommend nothing more than the Kumho
Victoracer for
> AutoX. Next would be the Yokohama Advan 032.
Others have their own
> recommendations though. I have only used
these two tires and they hold
> up quite well.
>
> Keep us
posted on the results.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: bob atkins
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002
22:46
>
> So I hear support for Porterfield RS-4. What about
Hawk HPS. Both are
> "light racing/street" pads and both have
fitments for the VR-4. Anybody
> used both and prefer one over the
other for some reason. I want to
> switch pads and fluid in the next
couple of weeks
>
> Also - looks like I'm going to get a set of
265x35x18 Kumho Ecsta V700
> for autocross and track instruction.
First track day reservations made
> for Moroso (FL) with Chin Motorsports
out of Orlando (NSX based group).
> Anybody want to talk me into something
other than the Kumho? Sorry, I'm
> stuck with 18s at least for a
while.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 23:18:35
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
My fluid needs to be changed which i will do
friday. . .perhaps it is the
pads as u guys suggest? i replaced them with
the genuine Mitsu pads.
How much would it cost to convert to VR-4
front brakes only with steel brake
lines?
I ask because i think these
cars are "underbraked". The Mitsu engineers used
math to find out what size
rotors the car would need. It weighs 3400lbs, not
light, and 10.8 inch
rotors are not big-they are lost in my tires.
Now the brakes are
fine-for a Diamante-but on my car, which is still designed
to go kinda
fast-and still weighs a good amount-it seems like more meat is
needed. You
guys get what i mean?
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 23:48:57
-0400
From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
Link shoulda been
http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autoxtrim.jpg
sorry - told ya I was
OLD
bob
(g8rbob)
'99VR-4
>
http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autocrosstrim.jpg>
>
older bob
> (g8rbob)
> '99VR-4
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 21:07:06
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
terrible brake fade
Looks great ---- if you're not doing anything Oct
12/13 come on
out to Sears Point and do a little road racing. Hell of a nice
vacation area, wine country and all
that.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: terrible brake
fade
> Link shoulda been
>
>
http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autoxtrim.jpg
>
> sorry - told ya I was OLD
>
> bob
>
(g8rbob)
> '99VR-4
>
>
> >
http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autocrosstrim.jpg>
>
> > older bob
> > (g8rbob)
> > '99VR-4
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 21:56:42
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
terrible brake fade
I love the #s. Where did you get them
made? Make them yourself? Is
there a true type font that you can
use?
Damon
fastmax wrote:
> Looks great ---- if
you're not doing anything Oct 12/13 come on
> out to Sears Point and do a
little road racing. Hell of a nice
> vacation area, wine country and all
that.
>
> Jim
Berry
> ===========================================
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "bob atkins" <
ratkins@cfl.rr.com>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 8:48 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: terrible
brake fade
>
>
>
>>Link shoulda
been
>>
>>http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autoxtrim.jpg
>>
>>sorry - told ya I was
OLD
>>
>>bob
>>(g8rbob)
>>'99VR-4
>>
>>
>>
>>>http://home.cfl.rr.com/g8rbob/autocrosstrim.jpg
>>>
>>>older
bob
>>>(g8rbob)
>>>'99VR-4
>>>
>>>
>>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 01:27:59
-0400
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: terrible brake fade
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
> How
much would it cost to convert to VR-4 front brakes only with steel
brake
lines? I ask because i think these cars are "underbraked".
-
--------------snip----------->
> -mike 97 SL
-
------------------->
Our stock brakes are one of the best features of
our cars. When the 3S line
was introduced, all the magazines placed us
near the top of the list of cars
that stopped fastest. CR even called
it (in '93, when evaluating the 2nd
gen '94 Stealth), "the shortest stopping
distance we ever recorded". Even
with stock brakes, our cars stop just
fine. BUT... When you subject them
to the rigors of the track, or
even a downhill winding road, all of our cars
get brake fade with repeated
high-speed stops. That can be solved (for us
non-turbo guys/gals, at
least) with just SS brake lines and Porterfield
street pads. If you're
racing, then switch to Motul 600, too.
My '94 outbrakes almost anything
on the track that's not running slicks -
I'm constantly looking in my mirror
for who's going to run into me at the
end of a straight when I come down from
~120... I can brake later because I
have confidence in these
brakes. A set of front pads lasts through about
6-8 racing weekends,
too. I considered VR-4 brakes until I got 1/2 dozen
"no" votes from
experienced racers and instructors who have driven my car
and were *very
impressed* with the brakes. Think about it - anything that
doesn't
fade..., anything that can repeatedly lock up your wheels from any
speed (if
you're foolish enough to *want* to), is a great brake system.
That's what
I've got with R4-S pads, SS lines and Motul. Before you go to
the
expense of getting TT/VR-4 hubs from a junkyard, and the install price,
try
the above, for about $1k less.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 02:59:55
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Door lock problems
I have the exact same problem, and have yet to
attempt to solve it.. I
agree that it is probably the actuator, as I
had the same problem in my
300ZX.. I just did'nt want to make a visit
to Satan's den just to be
overcharged for an inconveniance..
Anyone
else have this problem and fix it in house?
Scott
94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 09:22:02
EDT
From:
GC3000GT@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: "Twin Turbo" Replacement Decals Now Available!
-
--part1_184.d24dcf2.2a963f7a_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hey folks,
Great news - I now have replacement "Twin Turbo" decals in stock!
I've been supplying the <A HREF="
http://www.greggcouture.com/identitykits">3000GT
and Stealth Identity Kits</A> to you guys for
quite sometime now, and
have always been asked if I can get replacement "Twin
Turbo" decals for the
VR4s (or for the VR4 wannabes :) ) Well, they're
finally available - same
font and size, in a factory-looking Metallic Silver
weatherproof vinyl.
I'm sorry, but because these are so new I don't have pictures of them on
a
car, but <A HREF="
http://www.greggcouture.com/identitykits/twinturbo.jpg">here's
a pic of the actual decal</A>. They measure roughly 6 3/4" x
1/2". I believe they look even better than the stock decals on the '96
and
up VR4s, since they don't have that cheap looking black background
behind the
lettering.
I'm offering them here first for only $16 a
pair, shipping included. If
interested, please contact me at <A HREF="
mailto:identitykits@aol.com">identitykits@aol.com</A>.
Otherwise, you can
just PayPal me $16 to this address, along with your
shipping address. I will
ship them as soon as funds are received.
Thanks!
Gregg
<A HREF="
http://www.greggcouture.com/identitykits">3000GT
and Stealth Identity Kits</A>
<A HREF="
http://www.greggcouture.com/3000gt">My
'95 3000GT</A>
-
--part1_184.d24dcf2.2a963f7a_boundary
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2
FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="verdana" LANG="0">Hey folks,
<BR>
<BR>
Great news - I now have replacement "Twin Turbo"
decals in stock! <BR>
<BR>
I've been supplying the <A
HREF="
http://www.greggcouture.com/identitykits">3000GT
and Stealth Identity Kits</A> to you guys for quite sometime now, and have
always been asked if I can get replacement "Twin Turbo" decals for the VR4s (or
for the VR4 wannabes :) ) Well, they're finally available - same font and size,
in a factory-looking Metallic Silver weatherproof vinyl.
<BR>
<BR>
I'm sorry, but because these are so new I don't have
pictures of them on a car, but <A HREF="
http://www.greggcouture.com/identitykits/twinturbo.jpg">here's
a pic of the actual decal</A>. They measure roughly 6 3/4" x
1/2". I believe they look even better than the stock decals on the '96
and up VR4s, since they don't have that cheap looking black background behind
the lettering. <BR>
<BR>
I'm offering them here first for only
$16 a pair, shipping included. If interested, please contact me at <A
HREF="
mailto:identitykits@aol.com">identitykits@aol.com</A>.
Otherwise, you can just PayPal me $16 to this address, along with your shipping
address. I will ship them as soon as funds are received.
<BR>
<BR>
Thanks! <BR>
Gregg <BR>
<A
HREF="
http://www.greggcouture.com/identitykits">3000GT
and Stealth Identity Kits</A> <BR>
<A HREF="
http://www.greggcouture.com/3000gt">My
'95 3000GT</A><BR>
</FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_184.d24dcf2.2a963f7a_boundary--
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#932
***************************************
![http://www.greggcouture.com/identitykits/twinturbo.jpg">here's](http://www.greggcouture.com/identitykits/twinturbo.jpg">here's){kind=link}