Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, August 21 2002
Volume 01 : Number
931
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 20 Aug 2002 03:09:25 -0400
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SL ECS Struts
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody"
<
overclck@satx.rr.com>
> I
have changed springs on my car myself... I actually did it in
the
school parking lot when I was in college the first time... It's
quite
simple, and you can rent a spring compressor at just about any
parts
store... In the rear, you will be the only one that will modify
those spots
like Bob is talking about, 'cause no shop will take that
liability... I
didn't modify mine until about a year after I did the
springs, and wore out
a pair of tires due to this... I will mention
though.. It's not that hard
a job... I might add that since then I have
also taken the springs off to
repaint and refinish them as well, and put them
back together... I have
also installed Ground Control's on
a
friends car with a similar suspension too... None of it is that
bad... The
bolt that they broke off... I have NEVER heard of that
happening...
> -Cody
- --------------------------->
Well I
guess you didn't check the archives about my "Eibach Nightmare". A
list
member warned me about it and made the diagram for me and the list.
I
warned my dealer (yes, a Dealer took the job without hesitation).
Even
after I warned them NOT to, they DID trash the bolts (and I had to wait
an
extra day to get my car back while they ordered new ones). And they
DID
elongate the holes as I asked (it's the ONLY way to reach spec
alignment).
They didn't want to weld the washers, though, and to prove to me
that it was
unnecessary and that they wouldn't slip, they drove around the
block. And
they slipped. So they welded them! A
dealer! It was the right fix for the
job, and they knew it. This is the
ONLY way to put on the Eibach ProKit on
an NT. Eibach knows it too,
since I called them about it and asked them to
put it in their
instructions. They said they had heard of it "a few times
before"
(which means dozens) and they would consider adding it to
the
instructions. It hasn't happened.
If you want to do this job
yourself, it's not a big deal to rent a spring
compressor. But you're
still going to have to find a shop to do the spot
welds for you. Unless
you want to drive your car around with a 2-degree
walleyed camber...
Fun steering, too. ;-)
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 00:20:24
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SL ECS Struts
You can buy spring compressors from
http://www.harborfreight.com/
.
They are $10 a pair. I would recommend buying 2 pairs since our
springs are
a little large and a 3rd compressor comes in handy.
I have
used spring compressors from Harbor Freight on my 3S and my Celica.
They are
cheap but they do the job.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:35:13
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Re:
Dealers are scum. Did he also try to get you to trade it in on
a new car?
Ever hear of a Junkyard?
Do you know exactly what parts
you need for a rebuild?
Did I mention that dealers are scum?
Steve
C.
92 RT TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Kealey"
<
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 19, 2002 9:43 PM
>
> I cant believe
this!
>
> I have a 1993 Stealth Twin Turbo
> I blew a leak
somewhere in the rear-wheel steering.
> (You don't want to try turning
275/40/17's around a parking lot, with no
> power steering. Trust me
)
>
> I take it into the Chrysler/Jeep/Eagle dealership this morning
and leave
it
> with them to "diagnose" the problem.
>
> The
reply....
>
> "Sorry, your car is un-servicable"
> (It
actually says that in thier computer!)
> Then he goes on to tell me i'm
"flogging a dead horse"
>
> The service guy is saying that Dodge
doesnt have the parts i need.
Anywhere.
> He even did me the "favour"
of looking for aftermarket
> manufacturers/rebuilders for the rear
rack&pinion, but there are none.
>
> Now i am simply going to
bypass the rear steering. I looked all over for
> anything related to
doing this and i cant find a thing. Please if someone
> has done this let
me know. I have a service manual, but it doesnt show how
> the fluid is
routed and i cant tell supply from return lines.
>
> Also there is
no Mitsubishi in Canada, so no help there.
>
> What the hell am i
going to do?!
> Aaron
>
> (I posted on 3SI.org as
well)
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Chat
with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.com>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 12:23:29
+0000
From:
sport2evr@att.netSubject: Team3S: Head
light adjustments
I have recently purchased a '94 3000GTSL
Can someone
clue me in on how to adjust the head
lights.?? I have already ordered
a service manual, it
hasn't arrived yet.
Thanks
Joe
'943kGTSL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 08:15:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Radio code
$90 to get the code is a load of crap. You
need the code every time the
battery is disconnected, which you need to do
before your remove the ECU.
You can read the serial number on the radio head
unit by removing the
garnish around the radio. Then you take that
serial number with proof of
ownership (like the title or registration) to a
REPUTABLE dealer and they
will look up the code in their book. There
shouldn't be any charge for
that. My son and I have done this three
times for free.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Anthony Tse [mailto:tse1631@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 10:24
PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
Team3S: Radio code
Hi: I have a 92 VR4. I have a question about the
ECU &
the stock radio. Under what condition the car will
reset the
radio and ask for the 4 digit secure code ?
Because I don't have the code. I
have disconnected the
battery cable once when I install the FIPK. Lucky
the
radio didn't ask for the code.
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY
NOTICE+++++
The information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or
privileged.
If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized
representative
of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
review,
dissemination or copying of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from your computer system. Thank
you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:37:31
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@HotPOP.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
four wheel steering
Aaron-
Two things:
1) check out
www.car-part.com and look for it there.
That's a big network of
recyclers with a thorough search engine.
2) no
luck, then wait on me. I may be parting out my car, which is identical
to
yours. I'm going to do a diagnostic soon and see if my car is worth
keeping.
My 4-wheel steering still works wonders.
Good luck,
Riyan
Mynuddin
1993 stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Aaron Kealey
Sent: Monday,
August 19, 2002 6:43 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
I
cant believe this!
I have a 1993 Stealth Twin Turbo
I blew a leak
somewhere in the rear-wheel steering.
(You don't want to try turning
275/40/17's around a parking lot, with no
power steering. Trust me
)
I take it into the Chrysler/Jeep/Eagle dealership this morning and
leave it
with them to "diagnose" the problem.
The
reply....
"Sorry, your car is un-servicable"
(It actually says that in
thier computer!)
Then he goes on to tell me i'm "flogging a dead
horse"
The service guy is saying that Dodge doesnt have the parts i need.
Anywhere.
He even did me the "favour" of looking for
aftermarket
manufacturers/rebuilders for the rear rack&pinion, but there
are none.
Now i am simply going to bypass the rear steering. I looked all
over for
anything related to doing this and i cant find a thing. Please if
someone
has done this let me know. I have a service manual, but it doesnt
show how
the fluid is routed and i cant tell supply from return
lines.
Also there is no Mitsubishi in Canada, so no help
there.
What the hell am i going to do?!
Aaron
(I posted on
3SI.org as
well)
_________________________________________________________________
Chat
with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 08:25:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: $550
plugs and wires <was> RE: Team3S: Radio code
That's about $400 for
labor. At $80/hr = 5 hours??
$550 = 60K parts + svc manuals + few
tools + Pizza &
Beer (for helpers)
Glenn
- --- Alex Pedenko
<
pedenkoa@msu.edu> wrote:
>
$550 for plugs and wires?! Wow!
>
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 10:35:41
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: SL ECS Struts
I did check the archives actually Bob...
After I did all my own work,
including elongation of the holes, it was 2
months before I actually
welded that little washer in place...
Everything was fine... So long
as they know how to torque something
down properly, movement shouldn't
be a problem... Like I said...
For 2 months, I never had any
suspension problems without the washers being
welded in place... I even
had it aligned twice (lifetime)... No
movement in the rear whatsoever
over those couple of months... I
suggest finding another shop, as it
seems your dealer doesn't have a
clue... This is a simple, one day job
(installing springs and
elongating hole for any DIY...
- -Cody
Well I guess you
didn't check the archives about my "Eibach Nightmare".
A
list member
warned me about it and made the diagram for me and the list.
I
warned my
dealer (yes, a Dealer took the job without hesitation). Even
after I
warned them NOT to, they DID trash the bolts (and I had to wait
an
extra
day to get my car back while they ordered new ones). And they
DID
elongate the holes as I asked (it's the ONLY way to reach
spec
alignment).
They didn't want to weld the washers, though, and to
prove to me that it
was
unnecessary and that they wouldn't slip, they
drove around the block.
And
they slipped. So they welded them!
A dealer! It was the right fix for
the
job, and they knew it. This
is the ONLY way to put on the Eibach ProKit
on
an NT. Eibach knows
it too, since I called them about it and asked them
to
put it in their
instructions. They said they had heard of it "a few
times
before"
(which means dozens) and they would consider adding it to
the
instructions. It hasn't happened.
If you want to do this job
yourself, it's not a big deal to rent a
spring
compressor. But
you're still going to have to find a shop to do the
spot
welds for
you. Unless you want to drive your car around with a 2-degree
walleyed
camber... Fun steering, too.
;-)
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 14:20:36
-0400
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SL ECS Struts (Eibach custom installation)
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
> I did
check the archives actually Bob... After I did all my own
work,
including elongation of the holes, it was 2 months before I actually
welded
that little washer in place... Everything was fine... So
long as they know
how to torque something down properly, movement shouldn't
be a problem...
Like I said... For 2 months, I never had any suspension
problems without
the washers being welded in place... I even had it
aligned twice
(lifetime)... No movement in the rear
whatsoever
over those couple of months... I suggest finding
another shop, as it seems
your dealer doesn't have a clue... This is a
simple, one day job
(installing springs and elongating hole for any
DIY...
> -Cody
- ------------------------------->
Well you've
got that right - the tech who did the work *didn't* have a clue,
but the tech
boss wrote it up and did as I asked. He was embarrassed as
hell that
they had screwed up the bolts, since he had warned his techs about
it in
writing. (And he had seen it happen before). But I guess the
tech
that worked on it didn't check the worksheet, and so the eccentric
bolt
heads were stripped off. If you do it the right way, like you did,
there's
no problem. But if you bring it in to *any* shop, it's a good
bet that they
won't use the right tool if they are unaware that the hidden
bolt heads are
for adjustment only, and then those $3 bolts will have to be
replaced.
Again, you're right that it *shouldn't* be a problem to leave
the washers
unwelded for a while, but why take chances? The tech *did*
torque both the
front and rear properly (I made sure of it by asking them to
check it when I
came for the car) and yet just two quick hard right-hand
turns up hills were
all it took to make them move, although slightly.
You're just lucky that
yours didn't move, but that won't be the case for
everyone. It's important
that folks be aware of it if they attempt this
install, and to know that
they *should* get the washers welded.
SNAFUs
happen even in the best shops. This dealer has done lots of my
work,
with no problems, both before and since that incident. They took
$ OFF the
bill because of my inconvenience, they paid for the replacement
bolts (and
Fedex), and still gave me my 25% Team3S discount, even though it
was a loss
for them. That's what I'd consider a responsible dealer, and
still one of
the "Good Guys" in my book... We agree that this is a
simple install, but
with a potential for complex pitfalls. Twenty
successful DIY or even
dealer-installs aren't important - what's important is
that other owners
know of the possible problems when doing this custom
installation. We want
to establish what is the *best* way to do this,
not the *acceptable* way.
"What to do" and "what to avoid" are what the
Team3S list is all about.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 12:06:06
-0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Radio code
Ya! I'll go home & send you their name &
address
tonight. We should warn other people as well as those
money
sucking dealers.
Anthony
- --- Alex Pedenko <
pedenkoa@msu.edu> wrote:
> Hey
Anthony -
>
> Do you want this guy to make my "bad guys" page?
If
> you do, send
> me their name.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com>
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Anthony Tse
> Sent:
Monday, August 19, 2002 10:55 PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Team3S:
Radio code
>
> Thanks for the info. guys. I will try
another
> dealer.
> The one I went to is at Colma,Daly City. That
dealer
> is one of the worst expenience I have. I have them
> change
my spark plugs & wire only. Nothing else.
> They
> charge me
$550 for the job. I think it only needed
> for
> 60000 miles so I
painfully pay that price. After the
> job done, next day I found out 1
bolt on top of the
> intake plenum was chipped off. 2 of them looks
kind
> of
> bad. The plastic caseing on top of the fuel rail
>
broken because the screw got too tight. They
> replaced
> the bolt
and said they order the wrong part for the
> plastic caseing. The plastic
caseing come with the
> relay and it it too expensive too replace. What
the
> #^%^%@ I argue with the service manager why they
>
only
> replaced the bolt not the caseing, he said we do it
>
as
> a coutesy, we are not sure that was broken before.
>
Our
> techs are professional and won't break customer's
>
car.
> I won't go there again!!! Of course I won't pay them
> $90
for the radio code.
> Anthony
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
>
http://www.hotjobs.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 12:15:26
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: 720
injectors
I have a set of near new injectors that have a Denso part
number
195500-0860 and a lite blue top. I was told they were 720 cc but
I had them flow tested [ possible test problems ] and got a flow
number
of 396 cc well below the 720 number. They were static
tested on a flow
tester with 43 psi. Does anyone know if the number
is correct for 720
injectors.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 22:37:57
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 720 injectors
The Denso 720 cc/min injectors I have bought
had the following part number. I
never had them flow
tested.
195500-0830
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:15 PM
Subject: Team3S: 720 injectors
I have
a set of near new injectors that have a Denso part number
195500-0860 and a
lite blue top. I was told they were 720 cc but
I had them flow tested [
possible test problems ] and got a flow
number of 396 cc well below the 720
number. They were static
tested on a flow tester with 43 psi. Does anyone
know if the number
is correct for 720
injectors.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 18:57:17
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 720 injectors
I also have Denso 720 cc/min
injectors.
PN 19550-830
RC Engineering flowed all six between 664
and 669 cc/min and explained this
as typical (large variance on the
720s). More details here:
http://joeg.mi3si.org/Injector_Flow.htmlJoe
G.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 720
injectors
> The Denso 720 cc/min injectors I have bought had the
following part
number. I
> never had them flow tested.
>
>
195500-0830
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:15 PM
> Subject: Team3S: 720
injectors
>
> I have a set of near new injectors that have a Denso
part number
> 195500-0860 and a lite blue top. I was told they were 720 cc
but
> I had them flow tested [ possible test problems ] and got a
flow
> number of 396 cc well below the 720 number. They were
static
> tested on a flow tester with 43 psi. Does anyone know if the
number
> is correct for 720
injectors.
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 01:25:46
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 720 injectors
The ones I'm selling directly from Japan are
the same PN 19550-830. I flow
tested them here locally and they flew between
718 and 732cc/min
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Joe Gonsowski" <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2002 12:57 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 720
injectors
> I also have Denso 720 cc/min
injectors.
>
> PN 19550-830
>
> RC Engineering flowed
all six between 664 and 669 cc/min and explained
this
> as typical
(large variance on the 720s). More details here:
>
http://joeg.mi3si.org/Injector_Flow.html>
>
Joe G.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 6:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 720
injectors
>
>
> > The Denso 720 cc/min injectors I have
bought had the following part
> number. I
> > never had them flow
tested.
> >
> > 195500-0830
> >
> > Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
> > To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:15 PM
> > Subject: Team3S: 720
injectors
> >
> > I have a set of near new injectors that have
a Denso part number
> > 195500-0860 and a lite blue top. I was told
they were 720 cc but
> > I had them flow tested [ possible test
problems ] and got a flow
> > number of 396 cc well below the 720
number. They were static
> > tested on a flow tester with 43 psi. Does
anyone know if the number
> > is correct for 720 injectors.
>
>
> > Jim
Berry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 19:53:43
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Radio code
Please make sure to fill out the "Rate a Dealer"
feature on my site to help
others by sharing your experience - good or
bad.
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/DealerSurvey.aspDave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.netThanks
for the info. guys. I will try another dealer.
The one I went to is at
Colma,Daly City. That dealer
is one of the worst expenience I have. I have
them
change my spark plugs & wire only. Nothing else. They
charge me
$550 for the job. I think it only needed for
60000 miles so I painfully pay
that price. After the
job done, next day I found out 1 bolt on top of
the
intake plenum was chipped off. 2 of them looks kind of
bad. The
plastic caseing on top of the fuel rail
broken because the screw got too
tight. They replaced
the bolt and said they order the wrong part for
the
plastic caseing. The plastic caseing come with the
relay and it it too
expensive too replace. What the
#^%^%@ I argue with the service manager why
they only
replaced the bolt not the caseing, he said we do it as
a
coutesy, we are not sure that was broken before. Our
techs are professional
and won't break customer's car.
I won't go there again!!! Of course I won't
pay them
$90 for the radio code.
Anthony
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 17:59:17
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
720 injectors
Thanks to all respondees [ sorry I had to make up a word ]
--- turns
out I lied about the number on mine --- mine are the
195500-8030
rather than the 8060 number I posted. Sooo, they should be
720's
and I need to find out why they were tested at about half that
number.
They didn't charge for the test so I'm only out information, I guess
a
call to RC engineering may resolve the
issue.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@MEFAS.com>
> I found
this site with a pic. Trying to find others.
> Damon
>
http://www.twinturbo.us/720s.html>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 12:15 PM
>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: 720 injectors
>
>
> I have a set of near
new injectors that have a Denso part number
> 195500-0860 and a lite blue
top. I was told they were 720 cc but
> I had them flow tested [ possible
test problems ] and got a flow
> number of 396 cc well below the 720
number. They were static
> tested on a flow tester with 43 psi. Does
anyone know if the number
> is correct for 720 injectors.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 19:08:07
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 720 injectors
They probably just need cleaning. RC will
probably tell you the same. I
know my 450's were flowing around 300
before I had them cleaned.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 00:11:20
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
HEllo folks! Well, I just found (in a very
embarassing way) that my car has
an alarm. I'm assuming that it is part of
the anti-theft package that comes
with the car cuz I haven't seen any
aftermarket alarm parts anywhere.
Well,when I bought the car, all I got was
the ignition key, no alarm remote
so I thought my car didn't have an alarm.
Tonight, I was at the Palisades
Mall in NY and i'm talking to this 2
chicks that were just getting there
when I was getting into my car. I opened
the door as usual and the green
"security" light came on. I then unlocked the
passenger door for my buddy to
get in. When he opened the door, the alarm
went off. It started honking and
flashing the lights like crazy. I was like
"what the f..."?Since I don't
have a remote and it had never gone off before,
All I could do was
disconnect the battery while the 2 girlies pretty much
pissed their pants
laughing. What did I do that set off the alarm? Did
I accidently set it?
How do you set it anyways and where can I get a remote
for it? Thanks a lot
fellas.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 21:23:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
You don't need a remote. Just use youe key
& put it in
the door's keyhole and turn it. Alarm will shut
off.
Anthony
- --- "Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1"
<
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
wrote:
> HEllo folks! Well, I just found (in a very
> embarassing
way) that my car has
> an alarm. I'm assuming that it is part of
the
> anti-theft package that comes
> with the car cuz I haven't
seen any aftermarket
> alarm parts anywhere.
> Well,when I bought
the car, all I got was the
> ignition key, no alarm remote
> so I
thought my car didn't have an alarm. Tonight, I
> was at the
Palisades
> Mall in NY and i'm talking to this 2 chicks that
>
were just getting there
> when I was getting into my car. I opened the
door as
> usual and the green
> "security" light came on. I then
unlocked the
> passenger door for my buddy to
> get in. When he
opened the door, the alarm went off.
> It started honking and
>
flashing the lights like crazy. I was like "what the
> f..."?Since I
don't
> have a remote and it had never gone off before, All
> I
could do was
> disconnect the battery while the 2 girlies pretty
>
much pissed their pants
> laughing. What did I do that set off the
alarm? Did
> I accidently set it?
> How do you set it anyways and
where can I get a
> remote for it? Thanks a lot
> fellas.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 00:24:35
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Alarm..Kinda long
The alarm is set whenever u
A-lock the door
with the remote
B-lock it with the key
C-lock it using the button on the
door when it is open.
To disarm it u must stick the key in the door and
twist. . the alarm will
shut off. Now if the alarm goes off, it shuts
off after 3 minutes of noise
but u just cant start the car because the
starter is disabled, u need the
chip in the key to send the signal again.
This is where sticking it in the
door comes in handy.
The alarm will
go off if the doors are locked, and some1 opens it manually.
Lets say you
lock the car with the windows open. If some1 reaches in and
pulls open the
lock, or presses the button on the door. . .the alarm will go
off. Same goes
if they reach for the hood release or trunk release. Ive done
it by
accident.
U shouldnt have had to disconnect the battery. . .like i said
it goes off
after 3 minutes and all u must do it stick the key in the door.
The info is
in your owners manual if u have 1.
U can get a key
fob from any dealer. . .or order it online.
mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 21:26:25
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Alarm..Kinda long
The dealer sells remotes for way too much money --- $60
or more. I've seen
a thread for $25 remotes but don't remember the location
--- do a search of the
archives. it needs to be programed to match your
system --- it's a bit af a PITA,
some of the trim around the drivers side
rear speaker needs to be removed.
Unlocking the doors with a key should
disable the alarm.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 9:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: Alarm..Kinda
long
> HEllo folks! Well, I just found (in a very embarassing way)
that my car has
> an alarm. I'm assuming that it is part of the anti-theft
package that comes
> with the car cuz I haven't seen any aftermarket alarm
parts anywhere.
> Well,when I bought the car, all I got was the ignition
key, no alarm remote
> so I thought my car didn't have an alarm. Tonight,
I was at the Palisades
> Mall in NY and i'm talking to this 2 chicks
that were just getting there
> when I was getting into my car. I opened
the door as usual and the green
> "security" light came on. I then
unlocked the passenger door for my buddy to
> get in. When he opened the
door, the alarm went off. It started honking and
> flashing the lights
like crazy. I was like "what the f..."?Since I don't
> have a remote and
it had never gone off before, All I could do was
> disconnect the battery
while the 2 girlies pretty much pissed their pants
> laughing. What
did I do that set off the alarm? Did I accidently set it?
> How do you set
it anyways and where can I get a remote for it? Thanks a lot
>
fellas.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 22:26:38
-0700
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: front axles...any options for a budget?
I just slapped in my
springs and and have found that the wheels...or axles
rather make a clunking
noise when I turn both under power as well as just
coasting. I am positive it
is nothing rubbing and everything is torque and
tight...even triple checked
my lugs and that's exactly what it sounds like.
So I went to the Norco site
and got sticker shock...705 for each axle
assy....I am not sure if it may be
the inners so the 350 option might not
give me my answer.....It sounds like a
bad wheel bearing flopping back and
forth...don't see any evidence of the
struts being the issue....99% sure its
not that. So when under power or not
under power do the axles sound like
this.....could it be that they were going
bad and letting them pop in and
out of the sockets a few times during
installation may have caused the
1410.00 fix? I really don't want to go with
a wrecking yard for a "TEMP" fix
for 10-20k more on the
odometer....Everything was meticulously placed on a
white sheet when the
struts were swapped out with the intrax springs...is
this what the settling
sounds like? I would think not...there is however a
slight diameter diff
between intrax and stock springs....could the spring be
making this sound
under load? its only like 1/4" slop...but the thing is
compressed in there
and now the car sitting on it...everything is rock
solid...I doubt its the
springs....I am thinking I just ate a 1410.00 set of
axles.
any
opinions or thoughts....or experiences with these intrax springs on the
first
test drive......damn my car is low now :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 22:33:46
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
front axles...any options for a budget?
I would say it's not likely you
damaged the axles --- when trouble shooting
always go back to what you did
last. In this case the spring install --- my
guess [ although I haven't done
Intrax ] is that you've somehow installed
the bearing on top of the
spring/strut incorrectly. That bearing is used to
allow the strut to rotate
smoothly when turning, if incorrectly installed you
will get some noise from
the springs under cornering.
PS --- don't forget to get an
alignment.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 20, 2002 10:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: front axles...any options
for a budget?
> I just slapped in my springs and and have found
that the wheels...or axles
> rather make a clunking noise when I turn both
under power as well as just
> coasting. I am positive it is nothing
rubbing and everything is torque and
> tight...even triple checked my lugs
and that's exactly what it sounds like.
> So I went to the Norco site and
got sticker shock...705 for each axle
> assy....I am not sure if it may be
the inners so the 350 option might not
> give me my answer.....It sounds
like a bad wheel bearing flopping back and
> forth...don't see any
evidence of the struts being the issue....99% sure its
> not that. So when
under power or not under power do the axles sound like
> this.....could it
be that they were going bad and letting them pop in and
> out of the
sockets a few times during installation may have caused the
> 1410.00 fix?
I really don't want to go with a wrecking yard for a "TEMP" fix
> for
10-20k more on the odometer....Everything was meticulously placed on a
>
white sheet when the struts were swapped out with the intrax
springs...is
> this what the settling sounds like? I would think
not...there is however a
> slight diameter diff between intrax and stock
springs....could the spring be
> making this sound under load? its only
like 1/4" slop...but the thing is
> compressed in there and now the car
sitting on it...everything is rock
> solid...I doubt its the springs....I
am thinking I just ate a 1410.00 set of
>
axles.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 01:58:46
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch drag
Hey all,
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting so
much clutch drag. I checked
the pedal travel and found it out of spec and
fixed it, but after a
while the problem came back. I completely replaced the
fluid with
Motul600. Still - no effect. The weird thing is that it seems to
get
worse as the clutch heats up. When I first start the car, I can
shift
just fine. After a few stoplights, it starts to get harder and harder
to
get it into first. If I do a hard(er) launch early on, while it
still
shifts normal, it gets much worse right off the bat. I haven't
noticed
any wet spots inside, so if the slave cylinder is leaking, it's
not
noticeable. I haven't had a chance to see if the fluid level in
the
reservoir has dropped to see if there's a leak somewhere in the
system.
Other than that, what can it be and what can I do?
BTW - the
clutch is an RPS stage 2. The shop that put it in did a s**tty
job and never
adjusted the pedal to the changes from the stock clutch to
the
rps.
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
www.kolosy.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#931
***************************************