Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, August 19
2002 Volume 01 : Number
930
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 19 Aug 2002 05:45:57 +0000
From: "Frank Mingst" <
devilmanvisa@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New 3/S quarter mile record
Here is a list of all the times
for all of the runs:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=96371And
a mod list contained here:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95234Frank
Mingst
>From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
>To: "'Matt
Jannusch'" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
>CC: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: New 3/S quarter mile record
>Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 21:19:59
-0700
>
>
>Does this car have a publicly posted mod list? What
boost/octane/knock
>control?
>
>Tyson
>
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>Of Matt Jannusch
>Sent:
Sunday, August 18, 2002 8:12 PM
>To: Team3S
>Cc:
MN3S
>Subject: Team3S: New 3/S quarter mile
record
>
>
>8/18/2002
>1/4 ET: 10.787
>1/4
MPH: 133.98
>No Nitrous
>
>...by Mike Mahaffey from
AAM.
>
>Haven't seen a timeslip, but that's the word from Mike on
3si.org.
>
>Guess those "oversized" turbos are good for something
after all. :-)
>
>Its about time a new record was set, four
years or so for progress to break
>the old record is a long time to
wait!
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
sPeAk oN
'diS.
_________________________________________________________________
Chat
with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.com***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 00:33:23
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New 3/S quarter mile record
Very impressive. I expect
even more records to come from Mike. It would
not surprise me if I see
Mike at 10.5 or lower within the next 6 months.
This brings me to
something that I have been wondering about for a while.
Many other cars have
produced 9 second and even 8 second street legal cars.
Why is it that there
are no 3S's that has gotten in the 9's yet?
I don't think it is the
weight. Those old musle cars are all steel. Is it
the limited
modifications that can be done to the tires? We can't put those
huge
drag tires on. Is it engine size? 181 ci is not much to cram
horses
out of.
I see 9b turbos getting into the low 12's once the
corks are taken out of
the intake and exhaust. Why do these huge turbos
only take a car into the
11s and a few record holders into the high
10's?
On the subject of turbos, why havn't I seen anyone boosting up to
30psi or
higher? Seems everyone gets to 20psi and a very few people
boost to 25 psi
but no one ever gets higher. It just seems strange when
I read a car
magazine and see some insane car that is boosting 45 psi and
producing 800
hp off of a 2.5 liter 4 cylinder.
Just some questions
that I have had for a while and I figured I would ask
the
guru's.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 05:58:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New 3/S quarter mile record
Very impressive. What ET
mandates a rollcage instead of a rollbar
again? Is this purely up to
the sanctioning body organizing the
dragstrip at that time? This event
doesn't look like just anyone
organizing an open dragstrip night so I imagine
they are running under
some guidelines by NHRA or SCCA or
something.
Matt's mod list says "6-point rollbar" but does that imply a
rollcage
since most rollbars are 4-point?
Their site says, "All IHRA
safety rules apply at Maryland International
Raceway. All NHRA safety rules
apply at Atco Raceway." Then the IHRA
site notes a revision to the 2001
rules as, "Roll Cage mandatory if
entry has an altered floor or firewall, or
exceeds 135 mph. On all
other full bodied applications, a six point bar
is permitted." I see
he hasn't broken 135 mph but I would imagine
this is close enough and
with a tailwind or slightly lower 60-foot time he
will be in
135-territory. Anyone know?
And what class did Mike
run in?
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank
Mingst
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 01:46
Here is a list of all the
times for all of the runs:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=96371And
a mod list contained here:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95234***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 07:31:36
-0500
From: "Simons, Chris - BUR" <
csimons@wm.com>
Subject: Team3S: Both
Control Arms Replaced and Still Small Knock???????
Hi Everyone,
I
had some ridiculous knocking coming from my front end of my Stealth
ES
whenever I hit bumps in the road, so I had some suspension work done:
2
control arms, bearings, and CV boots. For the most part it did it.
The odd
time though, I still hear a small knock coming from the right side.
Can anyone please give me some insight as to what could be causing
this
small knock.
As always, thanks tons for your
help.
Chris,
92 Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:16:15
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SL ECS Struts
I wouldn't lower the car at all if it is just
for road use. Changing the
struts is relatively easy. You will
need a spring compressor to get the
springs off the struts.
Chuck
Willis
I have a 92 SL with ECS and leaking struts all
round.
What's the deal with replacing these and/or lowering the car at
the same
time, with costs and degree of difficulty?
Car is only used
for hard road use, not racing of any
kind.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:22:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Both Control Arms Replaced and Still Small Knock????? ??
Do
you feel the knock in the steering wheel? How do the struts look? When
I
had a bad strut, I could feel a wiggle in the steering wheel at the top
of
the bounce. Try this at low speed through pot holes or over speed humps,
one
side at a time.
Chuck
Hi Everyone,
I had some
ridiculous knocking coming from my front end of my Stealth ES
whenever I hit
bumps in the road, so I had some suspension work done: 2
control arms,
bearings, and CV boots. For the most part it did it. The odd
time
though, I still hear a small knock coming from the right side.
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The information in
this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are not the
intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 08:27:24
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
It is 10% Ethanol, but
every station here in Denver seems to be.
Curtis McConnell
Pulte
Mortgage
(800) 426-8898 x-3591
Fax (303) 740-3591
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger J. Roskam
[mailto:IndyStealth@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 8:04
PM
To: Curtis McConnell;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
> I'm not sure about the
quality differences but 0.14 cheaper per gallon
> and higher octane,
something doesn't seem right.
>
You could be on to something.
Check the ethanol content - it should be
posted somewhere on the pump.
Ethanol raises the octane rating of (but
produces less energy than) gasoline,
and *can* reduce the cost per
gallon.
I know Iowa subsidizes its ethanol
gasoline prices (it's made from corn
- ->
grain alcohol), but in other
states that's not the case.
I don't like 10% ethanol + 90%
gasoline. It doesn't make as much power
as
100% gasoline, and I
avoid it whenever possible. I don't use Sunoco gas
for
that
reason. Octane isn't the only thing you should look at when
gas
shopping!
Roger Roskam
91 Stealth
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:38:34
-0500
From: "Simons, Chris - BUR" <
csimons@wm.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Both
Control Arms Replaced and Still Small Knock????? ??
Thanks for the
response.
I'll have to look at the struts tonight, but I don't really
feel it in the
steering wheel, I feel it a little but more from my foot. I
hear it more
than I actually feel it. It doesn't really knock on all
bumps, sometimes
knocks more on subtle bumps then it does on say pot holes or
speed bumps.
This ones got me. I would like to try and diagnose it
before I have to pay
a dealer.
Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002
10:23 AM
To:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Both Control Arms Replaced and Still Small
Knock?????
??
Do you feel the knock in the steering wheel? How do the
struts look? When I
had a bad strut, I could feel a wiggle in the steering
wheel at the top of
the bounce. Try this at low speed through pot holes or
over speed humps, one
side at a time.
Chuck
Hi
Everyone,
I had some ridiculous knocking coming from my front end of my
Stealth ES
whenever I hit bumps in the road, so I had some suspension work
done: 2
control arms, bearings, and CV boots. For the most part it did
it. The odd
time though, I still hear a small knock coming from the
right side.
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The
information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are
not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:45:04
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Never reaching much boost...
Well I'm really hopeing that one
of my turbos is not dead, I've had this
problem since I bought the car, and 2
months ago I took the car to my local
Mitsu dealership, and told them how I
wasn't reaching full boost, and asked
em to check out the turbos to make sure
they are functioning properly, they
had the car for about 3 hours and called
me and said everything seems fine
and they couldn't find any reason for me to
not be reaching full boost.
Unfortunatly my local mitsu dealership is
operated by morons... So today my
good pal is coming over to help me check
the rear turbo actuator, and a side
note is that right before I bought the
car the rear turbo was replaced, but
there is still oil all through the
intake pipes, is oil in the intake track
a sure sign you have a blown turbo
or could it be coming from somewhere
else? It's not a boatload of oil either,
just whenever I take off an intake
pipe I can rub a towel through it and come
out with oil on it.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
Member #4909
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
To: "'Donald Ashby
III'" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Sent:
Monday, August 19, 2002 3:27 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Never reaching much
boost...
> Wait, with the referance unplugged you are not boosting
past 7?
>
> Possibilites:
>
> 1 You have one hell of a
boost leak in the intake.
> 2 Dead turbo
> 3 Bad wastegate
> 4
Bad acutuator
>
> FYI, Actuators oppening at 6PSI is normal. That is
how they are supposed
to
> work. The boost control Sylenopid on our car
is basically an ECU
controlled
> bleeder valve.
>
> Ohh one
more thing to check for. Remove the metal hard pipe going to the
> rear
turbo and check for oil on the inside. When turbos go bad, 99% of the
>
time its the rear one and about 3/4 of the time, it will blow the
oil
seals
> first. If you need them, I got a set of rebuilt, never
installed, 9B
(stock)
> turbos for sale. Cheap!
>
> Let me
know how that turnes out.
>
> Tyson
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Donald Ashby III
[mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 11:53
PM
> To: Tigran Varosyan
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Never reaching much
boost...
>
>
> yea i ment that the boost referance was
unplugged, checked today if the
> front actuator had gone bad by supplying
pressure into a line going
directly
> to the actuator, and it moved at
about 6 psi, im going to test the rear
> actuator tomarrow, and yes i
still have the red tipped line attached to
the
> y-pipe, and if you
have to replace it I would suggest 150psi fuel line,
that
> stuff is
great :)
> Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT VR-4
> Member
#4909
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tigran Varosyan"
<
tigran@tigran.com>
> To:
"'Donald Ashby III'" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 2:07 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Never
reaching much boost...
>
>
> > Hey Don, What do you mean by
wastegates unplugged? If you took the
> wastegate
> > "arms" off
of the actuators your wastegates may be flapping around in
>
there.
> > What I would suggest is to put everything back together the
way it was
and
> > unplug the hose going to the small nipple on the
back of your Y-Pipe.
That
> > will effectively keep your wastegates
shut. BE CAREFUL! DO NOT
overboost!!
> >
> > When did this
start?
> >
> > Another idea I have is something that happened
to me a long time ago.
The
> > hose that goes to the small nipple on
the back of the Y-Pipe is a
special
> > hose. About a year ago mine
tore and I replaced it with cheapo vacuum
hose
> > from schucks and
had a very similar problem to yours. If you do not have
> the
> >
stock hose back there (the stock hose will have a red tip) that is your
>
> problem. You need to find rubber pressure hose like a brake line or
>
> something. Something that will not flex or bulge under pressure.
>
>
> > Just some ideas.
> >
> > Tyson
>
>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> > Of Donald Ashby
III
> > Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 10:36 PM
> > To:
team3s
> > Subject: Team3S: Never reaching much boost...
>
>
> >
> > Up untill last week I have only been able to
reach 7 psi of boost with
the
> > wastegates unplugged. Then I did a
pressure test, I pressurized the
intake
> > to 8 psi (the max it
would get to before my pressure tester would blow
> off)
> > and
I fixed several leaks, and found no more. After the pressure test I
>
have
> > been able to get to 10 1/2 to 11 psi of boost in 2nd and 3rd,
but that
is
> > still with the wastegates disconnected. What else
can I look for as I am
> > trying to boost to 14 psi, thanks. Could one
of my wastegates be stuck
> open,
> > or do I need to find a way
to pressurize the intake past 8 psi, or could
> one
> > of my
turbos be blown, grasping at straws here. Please reply to me as I
>
can
> > only get the digest version.
> > Once again thanks
:)
> > Donald Ashby
> > '93 3000GT VR-4
> > Member
#4909
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:21:14
-0700
From: "Mosher, David" <
dmosher@ea.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ISO Stock Turbo,
Hey Guys,
Was wondering if anyone had
recently upgraded their turbos and still have the stock Turbines collecting
dust. If so I would be interested in the rear turbo if the price is right and
its in good working order.
Thanks
David.
please contact me
at
dmosher@ea.com or my cell
650-255-3266.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 17:23:08
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
Less energy, but allows higher
boost, which allows higher power after all.
We've been down this road before,
via alcohol or propane injection, see archives..
kdz
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Curtis McConnell
[mailto:Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com]
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:27
AM
To: Roger J. Roskam;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
It is 10% Ethanol, but
every station here in Denver seems to be.
Curtis McConnell
Pulte
Mortgage
(800) 426-8898 x-3591
Fax (303) 740-3591
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger J. Roskam
[mailto:IndyStealth@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 8:04
PM
To: Curtis McConnell;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
> I'm not sure about the
quality differences but 0.14 cheaper per gallon
> and higher octane,
something doesn't seem right.
>
You could be on to something.
Check the ethanol content - it should be
posted somewhere on the pump.
Ethanol raises the octane rating of (but
produces less energy than) gasoline,
and *can* reduce the cost per
gallon.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 20:05:55
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Both Control Arms Replaced and Still Small Knock????? ??
I have a
GMC Safari mini van.
I replaced the entire front end at 125K miles.
After
a week or so, I started hearing a knock noise and you could feel it in
the
floor by the passenger's feet.
I checked everything several times.
After about six months, the lower ball
joint went out.
It must have been
defective. I replaced it, again, and the knock hasn't
been heard from
since.
What would really set it off was when backing out of my sloped
driveway onto
the street while cranking the steering wheel all the way to the
left. (It
was the passenger ball joint that had the
problem).
Rich
snip>>>>>>>
> I had some
ridiculous knocking coming from my front end of my Stealth ES
> whenever I
hit bumps in the road, so I had some suspension work done: 2
> control
arms, bearings, and CV boots. For the most part it did it.
The
odd
> time though, I still hear a small knock coming from the right
side.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 20:32:00
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Both Control Arms Replaced and Still Small Knock????? ??
Check
the condition of your motor mounts... My front and rears are in
need of
replacing (this coming weekend actually), and It is causing a
slight thumping
sound when touching the throttle, and letting off...
Easy way to check, e-brake on, let clutch out in reverse and
1st
gears... See if you hear a knocking sound again...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Simons, Chris - BUR
Sent:
Monday, August 19, 2002 9:39 AM
To: 'Willis, Charles E.';
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Both Control Arms Replaced and Still Small
Knock?????
??
Thanks for the response.
I'll have to look at the struts
tonight, but I don't really feel it in
the
steering wheel, I feel it a
little but more from my foot. I hear it more
than I actually feel it.
It doesn't really knock on all bumps,
sometimes
knocks more on subtle
bumps then it does on say pot holes or speed
bumps.
This ones got
me. I would like to try and diagnose it before I have to
pay
a
dealer.
Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis,
Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, August
19, 2002 10:23 AM
To:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Both Control Arms Replaced and Still Small
Knock?????
??
Do you feel the knock in the steering wheel? How do the
struts look?
When I
had a bad strut, I could feel a wiggle in the steering
wheel at the top
of
the bounce. Try this at low speed through pot holes or
over speed humps,
one
side at a time.
Chuck
Hi
Everyone,
I had some ridiculous knocking coming from my front end of my
Stealth ES
whenever I hit bumps in the road, so I had some suspension work
done: 2
control arms, bearings, and CV boots. For the most part it did
it. The
odd
time though, I still hear a small knock coming from the
right side.
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The
information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are
not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 01:43:16
+0000
From: "Aaron Kealey" <
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
Subject:
[none]
I cant believe this!
I have a 1993 Stealth Twin Turbo
I
blew a leak somewhere in the rear-wheel steering.
(You don't want to try
turning 275/40/17's around a parking lot, with no
power steering. Trust
me )
I take it into the Chrysler/Jeep/Eagle dealership this morning
and leave it
with them to "diagnose" the problem.
The
reply....
"Sorry, your car is un-servicable"
(It actually says that in
thier computer!)
Then he goes on to tell me i'm "flogging a dead
horse"
The service guy is saying that Dodge doesnt have the parts i need.
Anywhere.
He even did me the "favour" of looking for aftermarket
manufacturers/rebuilders for the rear rack&pinion, but there are
none.
Now i am simply going to bypass the rear steering. I looked all
over for
anything related to doing this and i cant find a thing. Please if
someone
has done this let me know. I have a service manual, but it doesnt
show how
the fluid is routed and i cant tell supply from return
lines.
Also there is no Mitsubishi in Canada, so no help
there.
What the hell am i going to do?!
Aaron
(I posted on
3SI.org as
well)
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 20:08:51
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Sparco Torino Seat with brackets for sale...
I've got a brand new sparco
torino seat, grey with black inserts, that
i've gotta sell. Two
reasons: 1) cash- best friend's wedding and 2)
I'm a short dude at
5'5" and can't depress the clutch all the way to the
floor!!! So, my
vertical challenged nature is your gain!
I'm selling the seat, bracket,
adapter, and slider all for a low low
price of $600 +
shipping.
please reply off list with additional questions.
Damon
damon_rachell@hotmail.comfollow
this 3si post for more info and pics:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=dc71ebc9b9d1e26beeee020372012b9c&threadid=96577***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 20:24:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Radio code
Hi: I have a 92 VR4. I have a question about the ECU
&
the stock radio. Under what condition the car will
reset the radio
and ask for the 4 digit secure code ?
Because I don't have the code. I have
disconnected the
battery cable once when I install the FIPK. Lucky
the
radio didn't ask for the code. If I take out the ECU
for 2 days, is it
o.k to do so ? I have ask a Mits
dealer they need $90 to get the code.
Anthony
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 22:35:17
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Radio code
The mitsu dealer shouldn't charge you at all! All they do is
take off
the faceplate on the radio (pry it off with a flat blade) and call
in a
code to infinity. I've had mine looked up like 3 or 4 times by
satan,
and always free.
Alex.
'95 Vr4 with a frequently reset
radio
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Anthony Tse
Sent: Monday,
August 19, 2002 10:24 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Radio
code
Hi: I have a 92 VR4. I have a question about the ECU &
the
stock radio. Under what condition the car will
reset the radio and ask for
the 4 digit secure code ?
Because I don't have the code. I have disconnected
the
battery cable once when I install the FIPK. Lucky the
radio didn't ask
for the code. If I take out the ECU
for 2 days, is it o.k to do so ? I have
ask a Mits
dealer they need $90 to get the code.
Anthony
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 20:54:34
-0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Radio code
Thanks for the info. guys. I will try another dealer.
The
one I went to is at Colma,Daly City. That dealer
is one of the worst
expenience I have. I have them
change my spark plugs & wire only. Nothing
else. They
charge me $550 for the job. I think it only needed for
60000
miles so I painfully pay that price. After the
job done, next day I found out
1 bolt on top of the
intake plenum was chipped off. 2 of them looks kind
of
bad. The plastic caseing on top of the fuel rail
broken because the
screw got too tight. They replaced
the bolt and said they order the wrong
part for the
plastic caseing. The plastic caseing come with the
relay and
it it too expensive too replace. What the
#^%^%@ I argue with the service
manager why they only
replaced the bolt not the caseing, he said we do it
as
a coutesy, we are not sure that was broken before. Our
techs are
professional and won't break customer's car.
I won't go there again!!! Of
course I won't pay them
$90 for the radio code.
Anthony
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 00:12:31
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Radio code
$550 for plugs and wires?! Wow!
Plugs no more than $100
($78 for 6 NGK Double platinums from dynamic),
wires no more than $100 (I
think it's less). It's about a half hour-45
mins of work if you've ever done
it before. $250 / half hour - I'd like
to get than kind of money!
Good
idea staying away from that dealer.
BTW - I know Dave Black has a general
list of dealers and ratings, and
we have lots of "good guys" pages, but how
about a bad guys page? Like a
list of dealers you should definitely stay away
from?
If you guys send some info to me along with a horror story (and I
know
we _all_ have those) I'll throw it up on my site. I think this
dealer
just made the list :)
Alex.
'95 VR4
www.kolosy.com<snip>
That
dealer is one of the worst expenience I have. I have them
change my spark
plugs & wire only. Nothing else. They
charge me $550 for the job.
</snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 17:38:49
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Both Control Arms Replaced and Still Small Knock???????
Mine
used to clunk too, until I changed both tie rod
ends.
Steve
>
> I had some ridiculous knocking coming from my
front end of my Stealth ES
> whenever I hit bumps in the road, so I had
some suspension work done: 2
> control arms, bearings, and CV boots. For
the most part it did it. The
odd
> time though, I still hear a
small knock coming from the right side.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#930
***************************************