Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, August 16
2002 Volume 01 : Number
927
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Aug 2002 20:34:08 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Tire wobble only on turns
Hey all -
Since I've had my alignment
fixed, I really can't figure now why the tires
still wobble a lot. It
only happens really on turns, so I have trouble
believing that it is
balance. I know the tires got worn unevenly though, so
does this mean I
should re-balance? It is most pronounced when I hold tight
in a long
swooping turn, it gets quite strong.
thanks!!
Ken
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual
Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS
SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage
II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof,
white Ram emblem
98/99 COOLANT TANK (6/26/02)
Best (pathetic)
time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 15:02:55
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Request procedure to replace thermostat
Once upon a time
there was a gasket for the thermostat housing. An
engineering change
deteleted the requirement for the gasket. It is worth
your time to get
all the corrosion off the upper hose connection to the
thermostat housing
with a wire brush or wire wheel - this is a common place
for a coolant leak
that you can't readily see when the stuf fis all back
together.
Chuck
Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 9:01 AM
To: Dan
Johnson;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Request procedure to replace thermostat
The gasket on
mine was a rubber seal that went around the edge of
the thermostat housing
--- not a flat gasket as you would have for the
exhaust manifold for example.
FWIW --- I mentioned this before but
I thought it worth repeating. The Great
Satin wanted $50 or $60 for
the thermostat, I found what appears to be an
exact duplicate at an
auto parts store for about $17 --- they also had a
generic POS one
for $9 which should be avoided unless you're selling the car
to
someone you don't like.
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review,
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you.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 15:10:25
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: HP difference between 1G/2G
That's about it. The
6-speed transmission is geared a bit lower which also
makes the horsepower
SEEM greater because the rpm's are higher (more boost)
in the same gear at
the same speed.
Chuck Willis
I have been meaning
to ask this for a while, particularly b/c I may be
buying another 93 (Stealth
this time although another VR would be ok too)
Other than a 3 psi increase in
boost (approximate) what accounts for the
15HP difference between the 93 and
94 model year cars?
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The
information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are
not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 20:42:42
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire wobble only on turns
Be a little more concise regarding this
wobble...
Is it felt in the steering wheel, seats, left to right
or up and down...
I doubt it's the balance and it could just be the tires
wearing back in
properly, however it could be a bad wheel bearing as
well...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Ken Stanton
Sent: Thursday,
August 15, 2002 7:34 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Tire wobble only on
turns
Hey all -
Since I've had my alignment fixed, I really can't
figure now why the
tires
still wobble a lot. It only happens really
on turns, so I have trouble
believing that it is balance. I know the
tires got worn unevenly
though, so
does this mean I should
re-balance? It is most pronounced when I hold
tight
in a long
swooping turn, it gets quite strong.
thanks!!
Ken
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual
Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS
SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage
II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof,
white Ram emblem
98/99 COOLANT TANK (6/26/02)
Best (pathetic)
time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 22:23:04
-0400
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: engine noise... bad lash adjuster?
Hey all,
a buddy of
mine with a 91 RT/TT has recently developed a loud ticking
noise in his
engine after a couple runs at the strip (he said it came on
gradually).
It sounds a lot like the standard (heh, I said standard)
lifter tick, but
this is MUCH louder, and doesn't fade or increase.
It's very constant and
varies with engine speed.
We removed both valve covers too see if it
was something obvious, turned
the engine over a few times, and nothing seemed
out of the ordinary.
Interesting that the car seemed to run fine on just the
rear bank...
still that loud ticking noise, that seemed to be coming from
the rear
bank though. After the rear cover was off, we turned it over a
few
times, no ticking (although it could be b/c the engine wasn't
spinning
fast enough). Nothing obvious like a valve not operating, no
marks on
the cams, no crushed springs... We checked the piston tops
(through the
plug holes, nothing out of the ordinary).
I really
have no clue what's wrong. From what I could make of it, it
seems like
a bad lash adjuster, but I'm not really sure what a "bad"
lash adjuster looks
like...
Any ideas????
Thanks,
Joe
91 RT/TT
black
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 20:41:50
-0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
gabe92rttt@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Source for block & crank
Hello guys,
Do any of you
know of a good source to get a block and crank? My father and
I tore
down the engine today and found the thrust washers in the oil pan.
As a
result, the crank left some nice scars on itself and the block.
Any
help would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
Gabe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 23:51:44
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire wobble only on turns
All of the above. It shakes the
hell out of the wheel, yes. But really you
can feel it in the whole
car. The car has just a touch of wobble going
straight, but hardly
worth mentioning. What are the sympts of a
bad
bearing?
Ken
BTW - the car has 44k miles on
her.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of cody
> Sent:
Thursday, August 15, 2002 9:43 PM
> To: 'Ken Stanton'; 'Team3S'
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire wobble only on turns
>
>
> Be a
little more concise regarding this wobble...
>
> Is it felt in the
steering wheel, seats, left to right or up and down...
>
> I doubt
it's the balance and it could just be the tires wearing back in
>
properly, however it could be a bad wheel bearing as well...
>
>
-Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Ken Stanton
> Sent:
Thursday, August 15, 2002 7:34 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Tire wobble only on turns
>
> Hey all -
>
> Since I've
had my alignment fixed, I really can't figure now why the
> tires
>
still wobble a lot. It only happens really on turns, so I have
trouble
> believing that it is balance. I know the tires got worn
unevenly
> though, so
> does this mean I should re-balance? It
is most pronounced when I hold
> tight
> in a long swooping turn, it
gets quite strong.
>
> thanks!!
>
> Ken
>
>
Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
> 3Si Rochester
(NY)
> FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
> AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky
Injection
> Improved Precats
> HKS SSBOV
> Cusco Rear Strut
Bar, Konig Flight 17"
> 6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
> Aiwa MP3
Stereo
> 007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
> ASC sunroof,
white Ram emblem
> 98/99 COOLANT TANK (6/26/02)
> Best (pathetic)
time:
> 13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned
alky)
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 16:56:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: owner of the green car with brake ducts at National
Gathering
first attempt got bouced because it was "formatted", whatever
that means.
That was Dave Trent's car. Sadly, he did not drive at
Gingerman due to a
failing clutch, but he did talk me around the course the
first lap and he
also instructed novices.
Chuck Willis
P.S. Dave also
helped navigate us from Elkhart to Gingerman so that we could
arrive at the
track in a timely manner! Thanks, Dave!
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY
NOTICE+++++
The information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or
privileged.
If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized
representative
of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
review,
dissemination or copying of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from your computer system. Thank
you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 01:02:50
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Borla price drop
Hey all - I was just wasting time online, when I noticed
that Borla is
selling the vr4 cat-back for 709.xx. The price I remember
seeing on
there is 799.xx, with Dynamic Racing currently asking 729.xx.
Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 01:28:23
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine tear-down
Hey all -
I'm considering getting another car as
a daily driver and making my vr4
an all out dragger/track car (let's not get
into the discussion of
whether the combination is possible, that's not my
question :)
The question is this - if all this happens and I have the
money, etc
etc, I'd like to tear down the engine myself. Is it possible in
an
at-home-garage environment? I know I'd need an engine crane, but would
I
need a lift to get the engine out? The pics I saw on stealth316 show
the
engine and tranny being pulled in from below while the car is on a
lift.
Can it be put in from the top with the car on jackstands?
I'm
assuming if I tried to do that, I'd need to get the tranny off from
the
bottom (which I know can be done at home), take the hood off and
pull the
engine... but...
Any suggestions?
Alex.
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:27:56
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Borla price drop
You may better shop aroudn a little a you
can easily buy it online at
Summit Racing online for $639 since months
!
Happy droning :-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 01:02 16.08.2002 -0500,
Alex Pedenko wrote:
>Hey all - I was just wasting time online, when I
noticed that Borla is
>selling the vr4 cat-back for 709.xx. The price I
remember seeing on
>there is 799.xx, with Dynamic Racing currently asking
729.xx.
>
>Alex.
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 09:26:42
US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Borla price drop
Group buy at 3si for $520
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?
s=86f2c4c8b5dd86d17f460f99a230da14&threadid=95276
g8rbob
'99VR-4
autox driver
> You may better shop aroudn a little a you can easily
buy it online at
> Summit Racing online for $639 since months !
>
> Happy droning :-)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> At 01:02
16.08.2002 -0500, Alex Pedenko wrote:
> >Hey all - I was just wasting
time online, when I noticed that Borla is
> >selling the vr4 cat-back
for 709.xx. The price I remember seeing on
> >there is 799.xx, with
Dynamic Racing currently asking 729.xx.
> >
> >Alex.
>
>
> >
> >*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:25:27
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire wobble only on turns
have you replaced the front wheel
bearings yet?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton
[mailto:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 7:34 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Tire wobble only on turns
Hey all
-
Since I've had my alignment fixed, I really can't figure now why the
tires
still wobble a lot. It only happens really on turns, so I have
trouble
believing that it is balance. I know the tires got worn
unevenly though, so
does this mean I should re-balance? It is most
pronounced when I hold tight
in a long swooping turn, it gets quite
strong.
t
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The
information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are
not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:37:23
-0500
From: "Simons, Chris - BUR" <
csimons@wm.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire
wobble only on turns
I'm 95% sure it's a bearing. I had the exact
same symptoms last year and a
wheel bearing fixed my problem. Do it
soon, the potentials could be costly
and dangerous, especially if it's
bad.
Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles
E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002
9:25 AM
To: 'Ken Stanton'; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire wobble only on
turns
have you replaced the front wheel bearings yet?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton
[mailto:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 7:34 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Tire wobble only on turns
Hey all
-
Since I've had my alignment fixed, I really can't figure now why the
tires
still wobble a lot. It only happens really on turns, so I have
trouble
believing that it is balance. I know the tires got worn
unevenly though, so
does this mean I should re-balance? It is most
pronounced when I hold tight
in a long swooping turn, it gets quite
strong.
t
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The
information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are
not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying
of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained
herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from
your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:03:17
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Engine tear-down
> The question is this - if all this happens
and I have
> the money, etc etc, I'd like to tear down the engine
>
myself. Is it possible in an at-home-garage
> environment? I know I'd need
an engine crane, but
> would I need a lift to get the engine out? The
pics
> I saw on stealth316 show the engine and tranny being
> pulled
in from below while the car is on a lift.
> Can it be put in from the top
with the car on
> jackstands?
Absolutely you can take it out and
put it back in from
above. No problem whatsoever. Follow the
instructions
in the service manual and it comes right out the
top.
> I'm assuming if I tried to do that, I'd need to get
> the
tranny off from the bottom (which I know can be
> done at home), take the
hood off and pull the
> engine... but...
No, leave the tranny on
the motor and pull the whole
thing out as an assembly. Much
easier. You'll need to
remove the axles from the tranny, and the
transfercase,
but the tranny can stay bolted to the motor. You can
reinstall the whole thing together as well to save the
hassle of lifting
the tranny in from underneath. You'll
need a levelling rig on your
engine hoist to do this
since you need to angle the assembly back in, but
most
hoists have a leveller bar anyway.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
(Been there...)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:04:17
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Injector flow rates
Rated flow for fuel injectors is with the
injector in a "static" condition,
meaning the solenoid is continuously
energized (the injector is held
open; "100% IDC") for some time period. The
exact time period probably varies
from tester to tester. The exact line
pressure used may also vary but should
be noted on the flow report. I don't
know if exact atmospheric pressure is
accounted for by the tester, so actual
differential pressure across the
injector may be slightly different than
noted on the report. An example report
from RC Engineering is at the link
below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-rc_inj_380.htmIt
should be noted that the test pressure used to rate the injector flow may
be
different than the differential pressure across the injector during actual
use. To determine the flow rate at a different differential pressure use the
formula below.
FN = FO x SQRT(PN/PO), where
FN = flow rate
new
FO = flow rate old
SQRT = square root
PN = pressure new
PO =
pressure old
For example, the stock 360 cc/min injector (at 43 psi diff.
pressure) only
flows 320 cc/min at an idle pressure of 34 psi (turbo
models).
320 = 360 x SQRT(34/43)
For the non-turbo models, their stock
210 cc/min injector (@ 43 psi diff.
press.) flows 221 cc/min at their
running fuel line pressure of 47.6 psi.
221 = 210 x SQRT(47.6/43)
More
info on our injectors:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-injectortypes.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 15, 2002 4:02 PM
Subject: Team3S: Injector flow
rates
Question about flow rates on fuel injectors --- is the injector
flow rate
at 43 psi and an 80% duty cycle or is the rate for 100 % duty
cycle.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:40:43
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Head ?
>> Neither the block nor the head are actually
different though...
>> The only difference is what goes in those
areas...
I have not looked carefully at a 1993+ DOHC block. Are you
saying the mounting
places (brackets?, threads?) for the 1993+ crank and cam
angle sensors are
already present on my 1992 DOHC block? I know the DOHC
head change is trivial;
the 1993+ use a plug basically to replace the
1991-1992 adapter for the CAS.
We all (should) know the actual DOHC
blocks are different because the main
bearing cap changed for the 1993 model
year. There is no way for the 1993+
main bearing cap/girdle to mount to my
1992 block (4 bolts vs 2 bolts for each
bearing) and no place on 1993+
blocks for my 1992 main bearing cap stiffening
stays. Otherwise, major
internal parts are interchangeble - crank, pistons,
rods - and did not
change in 1993 except for the crank
metallurgy.
========================================================================
Out
of curiousity, do 1991-1992 heads mount to the 1993+ block without major
hassle (CAS differences noted)?
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
To: "'Jeff
Lucius'" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:21 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Head
?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:54:51
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Source for block & crank
>> Do any of you know of a
good source to get a block and crank?
I list perhaps two dozen sources
for engine blocks and internal parts at the
url below.
http://www.stealth316.com/1-links-t.htm#j7Also,
check with the speed shops that specialize in our cars, the discount
Mitsu
dealers, and the parts yards, also listed on the web page above.
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
gabe92rttt@comcast.net>
To:
"Team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 15, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: Team3S: Source for block &
crank
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:02:26
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tire wobble only on turns
Jack the front of the car up and by holding the
tire at the 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock
position lift the tire and see if there
is any play in the wheel. There should be NONE.
A friend had a problem where
after an alignment they didn't tighten the bolts on the
strut correctly and
the tire could move back and forth --- his wheels didn't wobble
but he had
strange steering problems when
cornering.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
have you replaced the front wheel bearings yet?
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Stanton
[mailto:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
>
> Hey all -
>
> Since
I've had my alignment fixed, I really can't figure now why the tires
>
still wobble a lot. It only happens really on turns, so I have
trouble
> believing that it is balance. I know the tires got worn
unevenly though, so
> does this mean I should re-balance? It is most
pronounced when I hold tight
> in a long swooping turn, it gets quite
strong.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 11:23:29
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Saner AWD Rear Sway Bar Going In...
This afternoon, I'm off to a
local shop to have them put in my Saner rear
sway bar in my 1995 VR-4.
I decided to pay a shop a few bucks to do it
since I don't have access to a
lift and it's hot as heck here right now.
I've visited their shop several
times for some misc stuff and they just did
a bunch of custom exhaust work
for a friend installing a 16G turbo on a NA
Eclipse GT. Thus I think I
trust them touching my car :-) The mechanic
who'll be doing the work
said I can hang out with my camera and take
pictures for my website and he
also promised to use a torque wrench for
everything...
I have Rich's
old post, Damon's old post, and some instructions sent
privately to me on a
recent installation of the new Saner bar on a '99 VR-4.
Anyone else have
any comments/afterthoughts/suggestions? Starting at 1PM
PDT...
here we go.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 13:25:18
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Saner AWD Rear Sway Bar Going In...
Good luck, Erik! The rear
one is not nearly as difficult as the front. Do
you already have the front
antisway bar installed? If not, it'll be
interesting to see if you wind
up with a little oversteer.
Chuck
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Friday,
August 16, 2002 1:23 PM
To: Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers List
(E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Saner AWD Rear Sway Bar Going
In...
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*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 12:42:40
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@HotPOP.com>
Subject: Team3S: lots
of strange noises and odd behavior from my baby (kinda long)
This is a
multi-part message in MIME format.
-
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text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
Hey guys,
So yesterday I took her to 6K rpm. Not that bad
for our cars, but I really
shouldn't be taking my particular one that high.
Generally I keep her at 5K
rpm or lower since my 60K service is overdue by
about 7,000 miles. Anyway,
as I was leaving my gf's house I noticed that the
exhaust sounded slightly
louder than usual. Then I noticed that it was idling
really low (like around
300 rpm for awhile). But everytime I turned on the
A/C she kicked back up to
800-900 rpm or so. That's just the first
part.
Today morning I went for a really short drive around the area at
low rpm to
figure out what's going on and hear into the engine more, and I
heard a few
taps and slaps from the engine compartment. This happened about 4
or 5 times
for about 2 or 3 seconds each time. The exhaust still sounds loud
(it's
rusty, perhaps it developed a hole?) but the idle is somewhat normal at
500
rpm. Still, once in a while it drops down to 300 or 400. After all
those
noises, I don't even wanna start the car again (just crossing my
fingers
that those slapping noises weren't pistons hitting valves!). I am
suspecting
that besides a hole in my exhaust, either the t-belt slipped a
tooth, the
lash adjusters are bad, or maybe something else? Any good ideas on
where to
start diagnosing, and how to do this without causing further damage
to the
car?
I know cars--I know engine compartments.... but when you
send me into the
cylinder head and camshaft, my knowledge is only theoretical
and book-based.
I do own the set of dealer shop manuals for this car, and
I've been taking
auto shop classes on top of my prior experience. At this
point, I'm debating
whether to let my baby sit around for awhile until I take
my engine
rebuilding class. Then I can tear the sucker apart and see what's
up. Ideas
on where to get started or what to do/how to handle this going
forward would
be greatly appreciated.
Riyan Mynuddin
1993 stealth
rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm-
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C24522.686BE020
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BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Mynuddin;Riyan
FN:Riyan
Mynuddin
ORG:advantEDGE computing
TITLE:Personalized Solutions
Consultant
TEL;WORK;VOICE:(408) 593-6959
TEL;WORK;FAX:(801)
760-4861
ADR;WORK:;;PO BOX 2301;Cupertino;CA;95015;United States of
America
LABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:PO BOX
2301=3D0D=3D0ACupertino, =
CA 95015=3D0D=3D0AUnited States of
America
URL;WORK:http://www.advantedgecomputing.com
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:riyan@advantedgecomputing.com
REV:20020701T024347Z
END:VCARD
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:35:35
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
I was getting gas at Petro Stop
(for anyone in the Denver area) because
they sell 93.5 Octane (standard 91
here in CO). The gas there was $1.61
as compared to $1.75 at a local Texaco.
My question is if the 93.5 is a
"lower quality" gas is it still better
performing than the "better
quality" 91?
I'm not sure about the
quality differences but 0.14 cheaper per gallon
and higher octane, something
doesn't seem right.
Anyone shed some light on this?
Curtis
McConnell
Pulte Mortgage
(800) 426-8898 x-3591
Fax (303)
740-3591
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 17:59:19
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
Price has nothing to do with
quality or performance. I have no idea where
people get it from... Very few
companies in our days price their products
at cost plus 10-20%. Price is
usually what the buyer would bare.
Without any further information, I
would do with the higher octane. It
would also save you money. If they claim
to be 93.5 octane but they
actually are less than 90 then this is bad. But
this is very unlikely.
Companies like Mobil charge extra 10% on their gas
just because ignorant
people think Mobil has a better gas than anyone else.
I saw Mobil's
marketing video where they showed their "preferred" customers.
Those were
mostly people who knew nothing about cars. They were putting a
93-octane in
a minivan and an econobox because: "I need POWER!"
<ROFLMAO!>
Someone has to explain to me what a low-quality gasoline
is. It must be
dirty and with lots of sulfur or whatever that stuff is that
creates carbon
buildup. I guess this is the only thing that I would be
concerned with.
Call corporate offices of both companies and ask for
information on that.
Philip
At 16:35 8/16/2002, Curtis McConnell
wrote:
>I was getting gas at Petro Stop (for anyone in the Denver area)
because
>they sell 93.5 Octane (standard 91 here in CO). The gas there was
$1.61
>as compared to $1.75 at a local Texaco. My question is if the 93.5
is a
>"lower quality" gas is it still better performing than the
"better
>quality" 91?
>
>I'm not sure about the quality
differences but 0.14 cheaper per gallon
>and higher octane, something
doesn't seem right.
>
>Anyone shed some light on
this?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 18:24:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
Fortunately enough I happened
to catch a tour of a Sunoco Oil Refinery
plant in Philadelphia, PA that was
on the television just now (statewide
tv channel broadcasts things like the
State Fair, Government hearings,
School board hearings, and these fantastic
video tours of places like
Mack Trucks or Straub Beer).
Anyway, the
tour guide was mentioning how the facility in Philly is a
"sweet crude"
processing plant which means they deal with crude that has
a minimal amount
of sulfur in it. He did not detail what "minimal"
meant but said this
crude is from West Africa. They can work with "sour
crude" and extract
the sulfur but they do not do this much anymore.
Then the downstream
processes produce Benzene (which later goes into all
sorts of styles of
plastic raw materials). I'm sure this plant would
have some info if you
wanted to contact them. They mix and
bottle/palletize/ship the product
from a different facility just up the
road a bit but perhaps they would know
some of these answers. If you
contact Sunoco then mention that you saw
them/heard about them on the
PCN Network tour.
I happen to use Sunoco
now because they are about the only chain around
that offers 94 octane.
And lucky for me - they have somehow gotten the
contract for the PA Turnpike
so every rest area and fuel plaza has
Sunoco all across PA. That means
I don't have to go out of my way to
fill up with the good stuff before a long
trip but just have to make it
as far as the closest fuel plaza and remember
to hit one just before
heading out of the state.
I don't see many
folks putting 94 octane in the family truckster minivan
but I think it is
mostly because the 94 octane is so much more expensive
and people tend to
think cheap on gas. Sure I might be able to get away
just fine with 93
or 92 but I bite the bullet and take 94 knowing
(hopefully) that they aren't
cheating by putting lower-grade stuff in
there and that it will run cleaner,
etc. in the car. It was hard
driving to Heartland Park and passing
through all those states with
nothing higher than 91 octane.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Philip V.
Glazatov
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 17:59
Price has nothing to do
with quality or performance. I have no idea
where
people get it from...
Very few companies in our days price their
products
at cost plus 10-20%.
Price is usually what the buyer would bare.
Without any further
information, I would do with the higher octane. It
would also save you
money. If they claim to be 93.5 octane but they
actually are less than 90
then this is bad. But this is very unlikely.
Companies like Mobil charge
extra 10% on their gas just because ignorant
people think Mobil has a
better gas than anyone else. I saw Mobil's
marketing video where they showed
their "preferred" customers. Those
were
mostly people who knew nothing
about cars. They were putting a 93-octane
in
a minivan and an econobox
because: "I need POWER!" <ROFLMAO!>
Someone has to explain to me
what a low-quality gasoline is. It must be
dirty and with lots of sulfur or
whatever that stuff is that creates
carbon
buildup. I guess this is the
only thing that I would be concerned with.
Call corporate offices of both
companies and ask for information on
that.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 09:15:14
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire wobble only on turns
44K miles seems early for wheel
bearing replacement, but if the car's been
in a corrosive environment, like
salt on the roads, or you've done a lot of
open tracking, then it's a
reasonable guess.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Simons, Chris - BUR [mailto:csimons@wm.com]
Sent:
Friday, August 16, 2002 8:37 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire
wobble only on turns
I'm 95% sure it's a bearing. I had the
exact same symptoms last year and a
wheel bearing fixed my problem. Do
it soon, the potentials could be costly
and dangerous, especially if it's
bad.
Chris
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 18:51:09
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Quality of gas vs. Octane rating.
Here is a article I found
linked to
www.howstuffworks.com. There is a
lot
more on this web page on gasoline refinement and
prices.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
4.12 Are brands
different?
Yes. The above specifications are intended to ensure minimal
quality
standards are maintained, however as well as the fuel hydrocarbons,
the
manufacturers add their own special ingredients to provide
additional
benefits. A quality gasoline additive package would include:-
*
octane-enhancing additives ( improve octane ratings )
* anti-oxidants (
inhibit gum formation, improve stability )
* metal deactivators ( inhibit gum
formation, improve stability )
* deposit modifiers ( reduce deposits,
spark-plug fouling and
preignition )
* surfactants ( prevent icing,
improve vaporisation, inhibit deposits,
reduce NOx emissions )
*
freezing point depressants ( prevent icing )
* corrosion inhibitors ( prevent
gasoline corroding storage tanks )
* dyes ( product colour for safety or
regulatory purposes ).
During the 1980s significant problems with
deposits accumulating on intake
valve surfaces occurred as new fuel injection
systems were introduced.
These intake valve deposits (IVD) were different
than the injector deposits,
in part because the valve can reach 300C. Engine
design changes that prevent
deposits usually consist of ensuring the valve is
flushed with liquid
gasoline, and provision of adequate valve rotation.
Gasoline factors that
cause deposits are the presence of alcohols or olefins
[46]. Gasoline
manufacturers now routinely use additives that prevent IVD and
also maintain
the cleanliness of injectors. These usually include a
surfactant and light
oil to maintain the wetting of important surfaces.
Intake valve deposits
have
also been shown to have significant adverse
effects on emissions [47], and
deposit control additives will be required to
both reduce emissions and
provide clean engine operation [48]. A slighty more
detailed description
of additives is provided in Section 9.1.
Texaco
demonstrated that a well-formulated package could improve fuel
economy,
reduce NOx emissions, and restore engine performance because, as
well as the
traditional liquid-phase deposit removal, some additives can
work in the
vapour phase to remove existing engine deposits
without
adversely
affecting performance ( as happens when water is poured
into a running
engine
to remove carbon deposits :-) )[49]. Chevron have
also published data on the
effectiveness of their additives [50], and
successfully litigated to get
Texaco to modify some of their claims [51].
Most suppliers of quality
gasolines will formulate similar additives into
their products, and cheaper
product lines are less likely to have such
additives added. As different
brands of gasoline use different additives and
oxygenates, it is probable
that important fuel parameters, such as octane
distribution, are slightly
different, even though the pump octane ratings are
the same.
So, if you know your car is well-tuned, and in good condition,
but the
driveability is pathetic on the correct octane, try another brand.
Remember
that the composition will change with the season, so if you
lose
driveability, try yet another brand. As various Clean Air Act changes
are
introduced over the next few years, gasoline will continue to
change.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#927
***************************************