Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, August 11
2002 Volume 01 : Number
922
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Aug 2002 12:40:15 -0700
From: Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Team3S:
95 Spyder headlight coating peeling?
Hey gang,
Both headlamp
assemblies on my 95 Spyder appear to have a thin, clear, final layer on top of
the (glass? plastic?) that covers the lamp/red paint headlight
assembly.
That layer is peeling. Originally I thought it was the
"Touch of Class" paint treatment (like permaplate) peeling (figuring they had
applied it to the headlamps), but I took it to an independent detailer who said
it wasn't the treatment. He said that he couldn't fix it, so I tend to
believe him, but I suppose he still could be wrong.
Have you guys ever
seen this? I saw something in the Team3S FAQ about headlamps peeling (
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQheadlights.htm),
but that peeling is internal (that sucks) and seems to only apply to the 1994
headlamps. My peeling is definitely on the outermost layer.
Any
suggestions/ideas? Any ideas suggestions for cleaners/solvents I could use
to strip it? I don't mind taking a chance on just removing the layer
because I figure that whatever the cause is, that peeling layer needs to go or
both entire headlamp assemblies need to be replaced, so what have I got to
lose?
I want to detail the car soon, but I want to take care of this
first...
Thanks,
Fred
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 18:16:44
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hesitation problem (Long)
I am still having the same problem I
had in the past. I just have not
posted about it because I was doing a
lot of testing.
Here is what is going on so far:
I am having a
hesitation problem whenever I boost over about 7psi and about
3700
rpms. This occures at WOT and there is some backfiring. I can do
14
psi up to that point without any problem. After I installed my WI
system, I
found that the hesitation would begin at about 3000 rpms when I
boosted at
17 psi. My O2 readings stay between .91 and .96 until about
500 rpms after
the hesitation starts. Then it drops as low at .5 and I
have logged up to
10 knock. It takes about 3 to 5 seconds to get to
4400 rpms from 3700 once
the hesitation starts. I even get hesitation
if I boost to just 9 psi.
I have been at this for months now trying to
fix it. I am at the point of
pulling my hair out.
The problem
existed before I made any mods to the car. I assumed it was
spark blow
out at the time and just started modding, expecting the problem
to be fixed
when I installed the new plugs and wires.
So far I have,
1.
Replaced the fuel pump.
2. Replaced the fuel filter.
3.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator.
4. Replaced my spark plugs and
gapped them to .032
5. Replaced my spark plug wires.
6.
Replaced one bad ignition coil with a hair fracture in it.
7. Tested my
air temperature sensor, engine temp sensor, throttle postion
sensor, crank
angle sensor and ISC.
8. Followed every vacuum line to ensure they were
properly routed and
replaced one that was cracked.
9. Traced every
wire for my SAFC and AVCR to ensure they were spliced into
the right wires
and soldered all splices.
10. Ran a 10 guage wire to my fuel
pump.
11. Replaced fuel injectors with DSM 450s that were cleaned and
tested.
12. Inspected my plugs, they are all a light tan.
13.
Replaced my ignition power transistor.
14. Removed and visually
inspected the ECU. No melted caps or funny smells
from it.
I
just bought a used coil pack assembly. I will be replacing my entire
coil
pack Tuesday night. I'll be crossing my fingers if I don't find
anything
else to test until then.
My mods:
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi
SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, gutted
pre-cats, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, 10 guage
fuel pump wire, Stillen
cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake lines,
DSM 450cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap,
RPS 6 puck street clutch,
Aquatune WI.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 19:00:33
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation problem (Long)
I found something that I thought
was odd when inspecting my ECU.
These are the capacitors that are
supposed to be on my ECU according to
http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm47µF
@ 50V
22µF @ 50V
100µF @ 25V
I have:
47µF @ 50V
22µF @
50V
100µF @ 16V
Is there supposed to be a difference in the capacitors
from different years?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 19:26:11
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation problem
Disregard my last post about the
caps. I misread the web page.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 19:33:30
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aluminum Flywheel Opinions and clutches?
>Are you sure
about that "510 ft/lbs" on the pressure plate?
I can't say for sure that
it is 510 ft/lbs. That is just what RPS
advertises it as on all the web
sites like Dynamic Racing and MVP. As far
as I can tell, it really
is.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 00:18:37
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S:headlight peeling addition
Hey guys-
Fred's question made
me think of somethin bout our cars in general.
Whenever i have seen
another 3000GT on the road with the fixed headlights-i
have noticed that on
94-96 models, the color is almost always faded and worn
on the headlight
portion. However, on 97 and 98 models the color is not faded
at all. I kno
they changed the styling slightly on 97s, but did they change
the headlamps
to?
Ive noticed on everything from magazine pics to real life. what
causes that
fading? Is the same fate in store for my headlights to? My 97
has almost
60,000 miles on it, and though i detail the car, i never touch
the headlight
with anything but soap.
just wondering, thanx
-
-mike
97 SL with still shiny headlights
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 07:36:12
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Racing Videos
Various folks have mentioned the idea of
compiling a video/DVD of
racing footage for GTOs, 3000GTs and/or
Stealths. What's the status?
Thanks!
- - --
Jim Matthews -
Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html-
-----Original Message-----
From: Humphrey
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000
9:07 AM
To: Matthews
Subject: Re: Team3S: Racing
Videos
Matthews wrote:
> Humphrey wrote:
> > George,
I've seen lots of those videos, and I even
> > have a lot of them in my
video collection. (Right
> > now I'm putting together a
collection video which
> > I'll sell on this list for a modest fee to
cover costs).
>
> YES! I'm interested. Keep me
posted! :-)
>
> -Jim, Munich
Hi Jim!
Sure, I'll
let you know once the
video is ready and available. :)
I think I
will have two different
tapes available: one will feature
older
Japanese racing videos
with the GTO and other sports
cars; the other will
be more recent
videos featuring the Skyline, the
NSX Type-Zero, Ferrari
F360,
Porsche 911 GT3, etc.
It should be pretty fun to watch!
-
--Errin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 07:58:50
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
propane injection explained ???
Many problems with a custom tank --- big
bucks, and legal issues, no manufacturer
would want to mess with a one off
unless General Motors is asking. No welder in
his right mind would build you
one just because of legal reasons. By law the tanks
are not allowed in the
car but I doubt anyone will give you a ticket although time
will
tell.
An ASME certified tank is required for use as a vehicle fuel and
must be separated
from the passenger compartment with a firewall. The ASME
tanks are stronger and
have additional safety features --- e.g. if the
control valves are ripped off in an
accident there is an internal check
valve that stops fuel flow.
Jim Berry
=========================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
>
Hey does anyone know if you have a custom tank made, if they can fill it
>
in the car? Thanks
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: John Sheehan [mailto:Johns@KYSO.com]
>
> Wow, Watch out! I
use to work at a refilling station while going to
> school. We refurbed
tanks turned in and setup new ones with our logo. I
> saw many, very many
bad or defective with only a few uses! Scary, I
> won't have a Barbeque
with one anymore. The smaller tank sounds better.
> Take a look at what
plumbers use, much better approval rating and very
> strong and I never
saw one of those with a problem. Temp=pressure
> buildup is an issue. Be
careful! Take care, john
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 08:48:34
-0700
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 6 puck solid hub clutch
I need some advice...but it will be
moot...either way it will be done just
looking for feedback.
My clutch
took a poop....so what better time to upgrade and improve while
repairs take
place? Got an aluminum flywheel care of Fidenza and found an
aftermarket
clutch that was brand new never installed for my car cheaper
than the stock
aftermarket stage 1.
This clutch is a 6 puck Kevlar solid hub...no
springs...it is going in
regardless....got it for 300 shipped...what can I
expect out of this thing
on the street?
any info would be
helpful.
bobk.
9399 r/t
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 09:27:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: overclck <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 6 puck solid hub clutch
I have the ACT 2600 + 6 puck unsprung
disk... I love it... I got mine for
$300 as well, new, from the ACT
dealer... (i ordered the 2100, somehow got
the 2600, and kept my mouth
shut)... It's rough at first, and totally
eliminates the possibility of
any non-performance oriented person driving
your car... After a week, I
drive mine like a normal clutch, but the only
thing I learned I couldn't do
was slip into 2nd at low speeds anymore...
This was met with clutch chatter
and rattled the entire car...
Do it, learn to drive it, You'll
never go back...
- -Cody
(mines on a FWD DOHC car)
>On
Sun, 11 Aug 2002 08:48:34 -0700 "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
wrote.
>I
need some advice...but it will be moot...either way it will be done
just
>looking for feedback.
>
>My clutch took a poop....so
what better time to upgrade and improve while
>repairs take place? Got an
aluminum flywheel care of Fidenza and found an
>aftermarket clutch that
was brand new never installed for my car cheaper
>than the stock
aftermarket stage 1.
>
>This clutch is a 6 puck Kevlar solid
hub...no springs...it is going in
>regardless....got it for 300
shipped...what can I expect out of this thing
>on the
street?
>
>any info would be
helpful.
>
>bobk.
>9399 r/t
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 10:30:29
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 6 puck solid hub clutch
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
> I
need some advice...but it will be moot...either way it will be done
just
looking for feedback.
> My clutch took a poop....so what better
time to upgrade and improve while
repairs take place? Got an aluminum
flywheel care of Fidenza and found an
aftermarket clutch that was brand new
never installed for my car cheaper than
the stock aftermarket stage 1.
-
-------------------------------->
Good news/bad news: A lightweight
flywheel gets your revs up faster, but it
also gets them down
faster(!). I spoke on the phone with both Rob (RPS) and
Matt (Dynamic)
about installing one on my Stealth NT, and both said "yes" on a
turbo car,
but "no" on my non-turbo. For negotiating a tight, right-hand
uphill
turn on a race course, for example, braking before the turn will allow
the
revs to drop (quickly, with a LWF), and you lose some important revs
that
would have been maintained by the inertia of the heavier, stock flywheel
- you
have more tendency to bog. Same would be true if you live on a
mountain or
have an inclined driveway. If you drag your R/T, you could
see a slight
benefit, however.
> This clutch is a 6 puck Kevlar
solid hub...no springs...it is going in
regardless....got it for 300
shipped...what can I expect out of this thing on
the street? any
info would be helpful.
- ------------------------------->
Like Cody
said, it's "on" or "off", and will be horrible if you ever drive
in
traffic. And again, the experts above said it's *not* recommended
for a
streetable non-turbo. Both Rob and Matt recommended the RPS Max
Street Disc,
which is what I installed, and I love it! I can't say it
any better than
Cody, and it bears repeating: "It's rough at first, and
totally eliminates the
possibility of any non-performance oriented person
driving your car..." Like
anything else, you'll get used to it (and you
may even love it, but your
wife/gf won't). :-) Good
luck!
- --Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 12:37:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Headlight Peeling Fix
I have a complete fix for this.
I don't have
time to go over it right now, but I will
post on it later.
Here is the
link to my repair job.
Roger L
F15DOC
http://community.webshots.com/album/42431213XdAPfP-
--- Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com> wrote:
> Hey
gang,
>
> Both headlamp assemblies on my 95 Spyder appear
to
> have a thin, clear, final layer on top of the
> (glass?
plastic?) that covers the lamp/red paint
> headlight assembly.
>
> That layer is peeling. Originally I thought it was
> the
"Touch of Class" paint treatment (like
> permaplate) peeling (figuring
they had applied it to
> the headlamps), but I took it to an
independent
> detailer who said it wasn't the treatment. He
said
> that he couldn't fix it, so I tend to believe him,
> but I
suppose he still could be wrong.
>
> Have you guys ever seen
this? I saw something in
> the Team3S FAQ about headlamps
peeling
> (
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQheadlights.htm),
>
but that peeling is internal (that sucks) and seems
> to only apply to the
1994 headlamps. My peeling is
> definitely on the outermost
layer.
>
> Any suggestions/ideas? Any ideas suggestions
for
> cleaners/solvents I could use to strip it? I don't
>
mind taking a chance on just removing the layer
> because I figure that
whatever the cause is, that
> peeling layer needs to go or both entire
headlamp
> assemblies need to be replaced, so what have I got
> to
lose?
>
> I want to detail the car soon, but I want to take
>
care of this first...
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#922
***************************************