Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, August 10
2002 Volume 01 : Number
921
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:18:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Les Gemar <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Timing Terminal
Good illustration. How about a more basic
question.
How do I adjust the timing? (Old engines were adjusted
by
rotating the distributor, newer ones are not
adjustable as the computer
adjusts automatically,
These 1991, 1992 fall in between.) Is there a
screw
that is turned, or?
- --- Jeff Lucius <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
wrote:
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-timingterm.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
>
To: "Team3s (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 12:23 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Timing
Terminal
>
>
> Hello Everyone,
> Can anyone tell
me exactly where the timing
> terminal that you ground out to
>
check ignition timing is? The car is a 92 Stealth
> R/T TT.
>
Thanks in advance,
> David Thrower
> 92 Stealth R/T TT
Stock everything.
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 15:37:54
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Timing Terminal
The service manual explains how to adjust
basic ignition timing. In 1991 and
1992 models the CAS (crank/cam angle
sensor) is moved to actually change basic
timing while following the
manual's procedure. The CAS for 1991-1992 models is
identified in the lower
pic on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-oilpresloc.htmBasic
ignition timing is not adjustable in 1993 and newer models.
Timing events
for the DOHC 6G72:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-timing.htmStealth
manuals:
Daimler-Chrysler Publications
800-890-4038 M-F 8a-8p EST
$59:
'91-'95 Stealth Service Manuals
$90: 1996 Stealth Service Manual
$12: 1991
Stealth Body Repair Manual
$10: '91-'96 Owner's Manuals
Manuals on
CD:
http://www.manualcd.com/Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Les Gemar" <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
jlucius@stealth316.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 09, 2002 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Timing
Terminal
Good illustration. How about a more basic question.
How do I
adjust the timing? (Old engines were adjusted
by rotating the distributor,
newer ones are not
adjustable as the computer adjusts automatically,
These
1991, 1992 fall in between.) Is there a screw
that is turned, or?
-
--- Jeff Lucius <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
wrote:
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-timingterm.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:31:14
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
So please tell me if
I've got this right:
For the record, my GReddy A/F gauge (brand new O2
sensor) reads from 8.0
(full rich) to 16.0 (full lean) and I have a Fed-spec
'95 VR-4 with a
completely stock fuel system, 2 stock O2 sensors, running
around 0.9kg of
boost with a DSBC. The GReddy O2 sensor is a 4-wire
heated sensor that was
placed in the normally-unused downstream bung for the
front bank (~12"
downstream of front turbo) in my Stillen downpipe. The
car is currently set
up for track use and has none of the three stock
catalytic converters.
Here's what I'm seeing :
16.0: Engine
braking (injectors off) above XXXX RPM
14.7: Idle, Partial Throttle Cruise,
Light Acceleration
13.0: Low RPM WOT acceleration in 6th (55mph -
70mph)
(normal?)
12.0: WOT acceleration above 3000RPM in any gear
11.5:
Initial reading when flooring it sometimes,
after 1-2sec, it goes back to 12.0 (normal?)
Is this what I
should be seeing? It seems reasonable, but I've still got a
bit to
learn about the fuel-related side of tuning. The 13.0 reading seems
a
little strange to me...
So far, the gauge seems to work pretty
well. I'm still playing with the
temperature calibration for the gauge
(it has settings based on how far the
sensor is from the block), but it works
great when it's all heated up.
After idling in the Jack-in-the-Box drive-thru
for 10 minutes, it was a
little flakey until things warmed back up. I
may bump the temperature
setting down one notch to compensate for the lower
EGTs at the sensor's
location.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with GReddy A/F
gauge
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 12:37:18
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
Everything but the
low rpm WOT accel issue looks to be on point with what I
saw from my 93 VR-4
on the dyno at Adrenaline Motorsports in Auburn. Not
sure what is
causing the 13.0:1 but I would definitely be concerned.....
Also
Erik what other mods are on your car?
Russ F
CT
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 12:31
PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio
Under Normal Conditions...
>
> So please tell me if I've got this
right:
>
> For the record, my GReddy A/F gauge (brand new O2
sensor) reads from 8.0
> (full rich) to 16.0 (full lean) and I have a
Fed-spec '95 VR-4 with a
> completely stock fuel system, 2 stock O2
sensors, running around 0.9kg of
> boost with a DSBC. The GReddy O2
sensor is a 4-wire heated sensor that
> was
> placed in the
normally-unused downstream bung for the front bank (~12"
> downstream of
front turbo) in my Stillen downpipe. The car is currently
>
set
> up for track use and has none of the three stock catalytic
converters.
>
> Here's what I'm seeing :
>
> 16.0:
Engine braking (injectors off) above XXXX RPM
> 14.7: Idle, Partial
Throttle Cruise, Light Acceleration
> 13.0: Low RPM WOT acceleration in
6th (55mph - 70mph)
> (normal?)
> 12.0: WOT acceleration above
3000RPM in any gear
> 11.5: Initial reading when flooring it
sometimes,
> after 1-2sec, it goes
back to 12.0 (normal?)
>
>
> Is this what I should be
seeing? It seems reasonable, but I've still got
> a
> bit to
learn about the fuel-related side of tuning. The 13.0 reading
>
seems
> a little strange to me...
>
> So far, the gauge seems
to work pretty well. I'm still playing with the
> temperature
calibration for the gauge (it has settings based on how far
> the
>
sensor is from the block), but it works great when it's all heated up.
>
After idling in the Jack-in-the-Box drive-thru for 10 minutes, it was a
>
little flakey until things warmed back up. I may bump the
temperature
> setting down one notch to compensate for the lower EGTs at
the sensor's
> location.
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4 with
GReddy A/F gauge
>
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
-
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the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
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==============================================================================
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:49:15
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
There is an AWD dyno in
Auburn?! Auburn, WA?
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Furman, Russell
Sent: Friday,
August 09, 2002 9:37 AM
To: 'Gross, Erik'; Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
Everything but
the low rpm WOT accel issue looks to be on point with what I
saw from my 93
VR-4 on the dyno at Adrenaline Motorsports in Auburn. Not
sure what is
causing the 13.0:1 but I would definitely be concerned.....
Also Erik
what other mods are on your car?
Russ F
CT
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent:
Friday, August 09, 2002 12:31 PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
>
Subject: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
>
> So
please tell me if I've got this right:
>
> For the record, my GReddy
A/F gauge (brand new O2 sensor) reads from 8.0
> (full rich) to 16.0 (full
lean) and I have a Fed-spec '95 VR-4 with a
> completely stock fuel
system, 2 stock O2 sensors, running around 0.9kg of
> boost with a
DSBC. The GReddy O2 sensor is a 4-wire heated sensor that
>
was
> placed in the normally-unused downstream bung for the front bank
(~12"
> downstream of front turbo) in my Stillen downpipe. The car
is currently
> set
> up for track use and has none of the three
stock catalytic converters.
>
> Here's what I'm seeing
:
>
> 16.0: Engine braking (injectors off) above XXXX RPM
>
14.7: Idle, Partial Throttle Cruise, Light Acceleration
> 13.0: Low RPM
WOT acceleration in 6th (55mph - 70mph)
> (normal?)
> 12.0: WOT
acceleration above 3000RPM in any gear
> 11.5: Initial reading when
flooring it sometimes,
> after 1-2sec,
it goes back to 12.0 (normal?)
>
>
> Is this what I
should be seeing? It seems reasonable, but I've still got
>
a
> bit to learn about the fuel-related side of tuning. The 13.0
reading
> seems
> a little strange to me...
>
> So far,
the gauge seems to work pretty well. I'm still playing with the
>
temperature calibration for the gauge (it has settings based on how far
>
the
> sensor is from the block), but it works great when it's all heated
up.
> After idling in the Jack-in-the-Box drive-thru for 10 minutes, it
was a
> little flakey until things warmed back up. I may bump the
temperature
> setting down one notch to compensate for the lower EGTs at
the sensor's
> location.
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4 with
GReddy A/F gauge
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--
This e-mail transmission may contain information that is
proprietary,
privileged and/or confidential and is intended exclusively for
the person(s)
to whom it is addressed. Any use, copying, retention or
disclosure by any
person other than the intended recipient or the intended
recipient's
designees is strictly prohibited. If you have received this
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error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and
delete
all
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============================================================================
==
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 12:51:16
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
No Auburn MA, sorry
didn't mean to get you PNW guys all excited........
link to the place is
below
http://www.adrenalinmotorsport.com>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Tigran Varosyan
[SMTP:tigran@tigran.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 12:49 PM
>
To: Furman, Russell
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
>
>
There is an AWD dyno in Auburn?! Auburn, WA?
>
> Tyson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Furman, Russell
>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 9:37 AM
> To: 'Gross, Erik'; Team3S List
(E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal
Conditions...
>
>
> Everything but the low rpm WOT accel
issue looks to be on point with what
> I
> saw from my 93 VR-4 on
the dyno at Adrenaline Motorsports in Auburn. Not
> sure what is
causing the 13.0:1 but I would definitely be concerned.....
>
>
Also Erik what other mods are on your car?
>
> Russ F
>
CT
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> > Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 12:31
PM
> > To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> > Subject: Team3S: Air Fuel
Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
> >
> > So please tell me if
I've got this right:
> >
> > For the record, my GReddy A/F
gauge (brand new O2 sensor) reads from 8.0
> > (full rich) to 16.0
(full lean) and I have a Fed-spec '95 VR-4 with a
> > completely stock
fuel system, 2 stock O2 sensors, running around 0.9kg
> of
> >
boost with a DSBC. The GReddy O2 sensor is a 4-wire heated sensor
that
> > was
> > placed in the normally-unused downstream bung
for the front bank (~12"
> > downstream of front turbo) in my Stillen
downpipe. The car is currently
> > set
> > up for track
use and has none of the three stock catalytic converters.
> >
>
> Here's what I'm seeing :
> >
> > 16.0: Engine braking
(injectors off) above XXXX RPM
> > 14.7: Idle, Partial Throttle Cruise,
Light Acceleration
> > 13.0: Low RPM WOT acceleration in 6th (55mph -
70mph)
> > (normal?)
> > 12.0: WOT acceleration above 3000RPM
in any gear
> > 11.5: Initial reading when flooring it
sometimes,
> > after 1-2sec, it
goes back to 12.0 (normal?)
> >
> >
> > Is this
what I should be seeing? It seems reasonable, but I've still
>
got
> > a
> > bit to learn about the fuel-related side of
tuning. The 13.0 reading
> > seems
> > a little strange
to me...
> >
> > So far, the gauge seems to work pretty
well. I'm still playing with the
> > temperature calibration for
the gauge (it has settings based on how far
> > the
> > sensor
is from the block), but it works great when it's all heated up.
> >
After idling in the Jack-in-the-Box drive-thru for 10 minutes, it was a
>
> little flakey until things warmed back up. I may bump the
temperature
> > setting down one notch to compensate for the lower EGTs
at the sensor's
> > location.
> >
> > --Erik
>
> '95 VR-4 with GReddy A/F gauge
> >
> >
>
>
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
--
> --
> This e-mail transmission may contain information that is
proprietary,
> privileged and/or confidential and is intended exclusively
for the
> person(s)
> to whom it is addressed. Any use, copying,
retention or disclosure by any
> person other than the intended recipient
or the intended recipient's
> designees is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this message in
> error, please notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail and delete
> all
> copies.
>
>
>
==========================================================================
>
==
> ==
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This
e-mail transmission may contain information that is proprietary, privileged
and/or confidential and is intended exclusively for the person(s) to whom it is
addressed. Any use, copying, retention or disclosure by any person other than
the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies.
==============================================================================
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 17:00:33
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AWD dynos
I have a list going of the AWD dynos I know about on my
web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-awddynos.htmCorrections
and additions are appreciated.
Supposedly there is Dyno Authority in
Redmond, WA with an AWD dyno (2nd hand
info). Not all dyno shops listed are
necessarily "open to the public".
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
"'Tigran Varosyan'" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 09, 2002 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under
Normal Conditions...
No Auburn MA, sorry didn't mean to get you PNW guys
all excited........
link to the place is below
http://www.adrenalinmotorsport.com>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Tigran Varosyan
[SMTP:tigran@tigran.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 12:49 PM
>
To: Furman, Russell
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
>
>
There is an AWD dyno in Auburn?! Auburn, WA?
>
>
Tyson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:05:57
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Apology + Open dump mod opinion
I have on several occasions over
the past few weeks screwed up and forgot to
trim down my replies to post from
list (I realized I just did it again on
this last post by me). So I am
publicly apologizing for my negligence and
stupidity (more of the latter than
anything else) to all the digest members
and ask that they do not crucify
particularly because I am a skinny little
SOB and would probably burn like a
piece of kindling ;)
Now onto the important stuff, over on another forum
I have seen several
listers who are developing and open dump mod for our cars
(similar to what
the DSM's do) and I have something very important to mention
concerning it.
This mod will not help those people running 13 and even
15G turbos you are
far better off having the housing heavily ported first
then playing around
with open dumps for 2 reasons, 1 the extra noise at WOT
WILL GET THE
ATTENTION of your local constabulary, and 2 at those airflow
levels it truly
is not needed. As for 17G and larger cars you are better off
trying to find
a 7cm housing because even the open dump mod is not going to
be able to
adequately bypass enough Exhaust gas to make huge improvements in
the
restriction that the TD04 6cm housing poses.
Opposing view points
welcomed and appreciated
Russ F
CT
Trying to figure out how to
get a 7cm housing on a 17G turbo with out going
to TD05 turbos
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This
e-mail transmission may contain information that is proprietary, privileged
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the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender
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==============================================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:11:31
-0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
Cruising in 6th at
55-70 mph would likely run under the 3000rpm mark
where the fuel pump voltage
is restricted by a resistor. Over 3000 rpm
the resistor shuts off allowing
full power to the pump.
Ben
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002
12:31 PM
To: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under
Normal Conditions...
So please tell me if I've got this right:
For
the record, my GReddy A/F gauge (brand new O2 sensor) reads from 8.0
(full
rich) to 16.0 (full lean) and I have a Fed-spec '95 VR-4 with a
completely
stock fuel system, 2 stock O2 sensors, running around 0.9kg
of
boost with
a DSBC. The GReddy O2 sensor is a 4-wire heated sensor
that
was
placed in the normally-unused downstream bung for the front bank
(~12"
downstream of front turbo) in my Stillen downpipe. The car is
currently
set
up for track use and has none of the three stock catalytic
converters.
Here's what I'm seeing :
16.0: Engine braking
(injectors off) above XXXX RPM
14.7: Idle, Partial Throttle Cruise, Light
Acceleration
13.0: Low RPM WOT acceleration in 6th (55mph -
70mph)
(normal?)
12.0: WOT acceleration above 3000RPM in any gear
11.5:
Initial reading when flooring it sometimes,
after 1-2sec, it goes back to 12.0 (normal?)
Is this what I
should be seeing? It seems reasonable, but I've still
got a
bit to
learn about the fuel-related side of tuning. The 13.0
reading
seems
a little strange to me...
So far, the gauge seems to
work pretty well. I'm still playing with the
temperature calibration
for the gauge (it has settings based on how far
the
sensor is from the
block), but it works great when it's all heated up.
After idling in the
Jack-in-the-Box drive-thru for 10 minutes, it was a
little flakey until
things warmed back up. I may bump the temperature
setting down one
notch to compensate for the lower EGTs at the sensor's
location.
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4 with GReddy A/F gauge
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 10:14:18
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
> Also Erik what
other mods are on your car?
Nothing all that significant right
now...
K&N Aircharger
Blitz DSBC
GReddy BPV
Stillen
Downpipe
Some suspension stuff
Some gauges
Various synthetic
fluids
SVH
Now that I think about it, that 13.0 reading might have
been when the sensor
hadn't fully warmed back up (from extended idling), so
I'll have to get some
more data. I do remember seeing it sit at 13.0
for 3-4 seconds while I
floored it in 6th and thought it strange. The
car runs very well right now
- - no complaints - so if things are "off" on
the A/F readings, I'm more apt
to suspect the gauge over anything else at
this point. Like I said, still
messing around with the temperature
setting to compensate for the sensor
being 24" away from the block.
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:40:20
-0400
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer Case Losing Oil
Hello Again,
I have another
question. Does anyone out there have a problem with the
transfer case blowing
oil out of the breather? I just changed the oil in it
about 300 miles ago
with Mobil 1 75W90. I'll admit that I overfilled it and
it pushed some out
the vent, but I opened the fill plug and drained the
excess. Still today
after setting the timing, (Thanks Jeff Lucius for the
timing link)and taking
it arround town to do some "Honey Dos'", it still is
dripping. I'm positive
its not coming from the seals.
Thanks for any advice in
advance,
David Thrower
92 Stealth R/T TT All
Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 10:33:41
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Apology + Open dump mod opinion
I've been following the thread and was of
the opinion that there are too many
variables to make it an easy decision.
Obviously it would do no good on a
stock system since at WOT and max boost
the waste gate will never open.
It would seem it's best application is larger
turbos with a restrictive exhaust.
I forgot if this replaces the precats ???
they claim better flow through that
section of the exhaust.
I'll be
running a 368 configuration and I'm tempted to try it --- not cheap at
$250
but compared to the other expenses I've encountered not bad. A true
3" dual
system would seem a better
option.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
Now onto the important stuff, over on another forum I have seen several
>
listers who are developing and open dump mod for our cars (similar to
what
> the DSM's do) and I have something very important to mention
concerning it.
> This mod will not help those people running
13 and even 15G turbos you are
> far better off having the housing heavily
ported first then playing around
> with open dumps for 2 reasons, 1 the
extra noise at WOT WILL GET THE
> ATTENTION of your local constabulary,
and 2 at those airflow levels it truly
> is not needed. As for 17G and
larger cars you are better off trying to find
> a 7cm housing because even
the open dump mod is not going to be able to
> adequately bypass enough
Exhaust gas to make huge improvements in the
> restriction that the TD04
6cm housing poses.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:50:55
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apology + Open dump mod opinion
See that is the thing I am
getting at in all reality the stock turbine
housing is just to small for
anything more than 15G's and IMHO you are
pushing the limits at that point
also. ideal set up in my opinion is 17G's
with a 7CM housing, and at least
true dual 2.75" exhaust from the turbine
housing back.
But
again what do I know and since everyone seems to be such lag babies.
REALITY
CHECK there is no magic turbo if you want high end power then you
deal with
lag, if you want efficient highend power you go with a moderately
sized turbo
with a appropriately sized turbine housing.
Just look at turbos
like the HKS 28/35's or true Garrett 30/30's they have
about 500 rpms more
lag than the stockers but are 600+ AWHP
capable.................
I am
going to get off my soap box now.........
Russ F
CT
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:34 PM
> To: Furman, Russell; 'Team
3S'
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Apology + Open dump mod opinion
>
> I've been following the thread and was of the opinion that there are
too
> many
> variables to make it an easy decision. Obviously it
would do no good on a
> stock system since at WOT and max boost the waste
gate will never open.
> It would seem it's best application is larger
turbos with a restrictive
> exhaust.
> I forgot if this replaces the
precats ??? they claim better flow through
> that
> section of the
exhaust.
>
> I'll be running a 368 configuration and I'm tempted to
try it --- not
> cheap at
> $250 but compared to the other expenses
I've encountered not bad. A true
> 3" dual system would seem a better
option.
>
> Jim
Berry
-
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 18:52:52
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
Voltage to the fuel
pump makes no difference in the A/F if the pump and its
*stock* electrical
circuit are functioning normally. The fuel pressure
regulator will maintain
the correct pressure (and that means the pressure
expected by the ECM) at
the injectors. It is the pressure at the injectors,
and the injector
activation duration, that determines the fuel delivery, not
the flow by the
pump. Excess flow is returned to the tank. Underflow during
cruising should
not happen if the pump and its circuit are in good shape in a
relatively
stock car such as Erik's. Underflow would also be marked by
underpressure at
the injectors.
The reason voltage is reduced at idle and low load is to
reduce fuel flow.
This is desirable because at low fuel-line pressure (low
or no boost that is)
the fuel pump flows the *most* volume. Pump volume flow
is reduced as fuel
line pressure increases (as boost increases) and so more
voltage is required
(or desirable).
Fuel pumps:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htmFuel
injection control:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
To:
"Team3S List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 09, 2002 11:11 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under
Normal Conditions...
Cruising in 6th at 55-70 mph would likely run under
the 3000rpm mark
where the fuel pump voltage is restricted by a resistor.
Over 3000 rpm
the resistor shuts off allowing full power to the
pump.
Ben
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 12:31 PM
To:
Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal
Conditions...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:38:39
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch install, what did I do wrong?
Got done with my clutch yesterday...
Its got some tuning issues and I got to
get used to it... Its a Spec Stage 3,
4 puck high friction etc etc. I
followed the instructions on Jeff's site (and
they were good, saved me much
time) but I got the a problem now which is a
bit scary....
When I downshift, specially at high RPM, soon as the clutch
grips, I get
this *CLUNK* or sometimes a *CLUNK* *clunk* which I can feel in
my
floorboard, it feels like its coming from the transfer case. It
sounds
scary... Like a drive shaft not being in all the way or something... I
don't
know. I looked at it and everything seems ok. It does it on
downshifting and
sometimes if I get to high RPM and just let go off the gas
pedal real fast,
it does it too but much softer. I don't think it has to do
with the clutch
itself because it does it when I let of off the gas too....
Is there some
gasket or some spacer that I forgot to put into one of the
drive shafts or
something? I know my passenger side C-ring on the half-shaft
is in there....
I didn't replace it and that thing was a pain to put
in!
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Tyson
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 19:26:57
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: In need of help with High Pressure fuel line
Ok, I got a recycled
fuel assembly for $60 but now I am having a major
problem with connecting the
high pressure line. Every time I try to put
the hose on, it just twist
the rubber hose and kinks it. I tried
twisting the hose the opposite
way before threading it on and I can only
get it about half way threaded on
so the hose is not kinked or tangled.
I cannot get the high pressure
connection near the gas tank undone but I
would have the same exact problem
when I would try to install that line.
Is the rubber hose supposed to spin in
the fitting? I will pay anyone
who can come either late Saturday
afternoon or Sunday to fix it. I live
near Pottstown Pa. I am so
fed up with this and I think I am ready to
break something. I turned
the car on with the fitting only half way and
of course gasoline shot
everywhere. I don't know how anyone could
easily do this unless maybe
their car was brand new when they did it. I
am really at wits end so
any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 16:50:57
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: In need of help with High Pressure fuel line
On occasion I have
used KY water soluble lubricant to get rubber hoses
started. (I know, but
really, it works, and doesn't cause problems later
on.)
Andy
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
To:
<
stealth@starnet.net>; "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 09, 2002 4:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: In need of help with High
Pressure fuel line
| Ok, I got a recycled fuel assembly for $60 but
now I am having a major
| problem with connecting the high pressure
line. Every time I try to put
| the hose on, it just twist the rubber
hose and kinks it. I tried
| twisting the hose the opposite way before
threading it on and I can only
| get it about half way threaded on so the
hose is not kinked or tangled.
| I cannot get the high pressure connection
near the gas tank undone but I
| would have the same exact problem when I
would try to install that line.
| Is the rubber hose supposed to spin in the
fitting? I will pay anyone
| who can come either late Saturday
afternoon or Sunday to fix it. I live
| near Pottstown Pa. I am
so fed up with this and I think I am ready to
| break something. I
turned the car on with the fitting only half way and
| of course gasoline
shot everywhere. I don't know how anyone could
| easily do this unless
maybe their car was brand new when they did it. I
| am really at wits
end so any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
|
|
| ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 17:04:22
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: In need of help with High Pressure fuel line
It sounds like
you have not loosened the front fitting or it isn't loose
enough. Once
the front fitting is loose, the hose should spin freely
without
twisting.
To loosen it, jack up the RR wheel, place a jackstand under the
car and then
climb under there with your 19mm and 14mm wrenches and a
flashlight. You
will see the front of the hose connected to the hard
pipe that goes to the
engine bay. Keep the Hose portion as stationary
as you can and loosen the
fitting. Once that is loose, the entire hose
should be able to spin easy.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 18:17:05
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Air Fuel Ratio Under Normal Conditions...
FWIW --- Full fuel flow can
pose several problems. If left at full flow at idle
the system is constantly
circulating large amounts of fuel from the pump
back to the tank. That
results in several problems --- it heats the fuel as it
circulates through
the pump and the fuel rails in the engine bay it also
aerates the fuel which
can cause problems if the pickup is too close to
the return.
I've
abandoned my Aeromotive plans for a dual Walboro setup --- I'm
thinking of
using the fuel pump relay II to switch one of the pumps on
and off so that at
3K rpm and below I'll have one pump and above 3K
I'll have two
pumps. Anybody see problems with this
?? comments
welcome.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
>
Voltage to the fuel pump makes no difference in the A/F if the pump and its
> *stock* electrical circuit are functioning normally. The fuel pressure
> regulator will maintain the correct pressure (and that means the
pressure
> expected by the ECM) at the injectors. It is the pressure at
the injectors,
> and the injector activation duration, that determines
the fuel delivery, not
> the flow by the pump. Excess flow is returned to
the tank. Underflow during
> cruising should not happen if the pump and
its circuit are in good shape in a
> relatively stock car such as Erik's.
Underflow would also be marked by
> underpressure at the
injectors.
>
> The reason voltage is reduced at idle and low load
is to reduce fuel flow.
> This is desirable because at low fuel-line
pressure (low or no boost that is)
> the fuel pump flows the *most*
volume. Pump volume flow is reduced as fuel
> line pressure increases (as
boost increases) and so more voltage is required
> (or
desirable).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 22:34:04
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
ECU Fixed!
Woo-hoo!
$1 in parts, $10 in shipping and $20 for
soldering and my ECU looks like its
good to go! I came DAMN close to spending
$1000 to have the dealer replace
it!
I installed the fixed unit
tonight and - no Check Engine light, no ABS
light, no other lights. And
- better yet - it actually started, which is
more than it did before the
fix!
Special thanks to glenn vrfour for pointing out John Monnins web
page with
the instructions. (Glenn - do I owe you $969?)
I had
my local TV repair shop guy install the capacitors - $20! He
said
afterword that he had them in stock - I could have saved the $10
shipping
from digikey.
I'll know for sure that I'm good in the morning
after my crappy downpipe
muffler-tape repair job has dried and I get the
chance to drive the car.
(Don't ask - rotted at the flex point on the factory
pipe. If I ever roll
the car I'll die because the EMS guys will
be so busy laughing at my
downpipe hack job they'll forget to pull me
out). I'm just waiting for my
wife to appreciate the advantages of a
nice aftermarket downpipe or for hell
to freeze over, whichever comes
first......
Thanks again Glenn!
Steve C.
92 Stealth RT TT
93
Toyota MR2 Turbo
96 Ch&%by Impala SS
70 Dodge Charger
R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 14:41:36
+0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Transaxel
Hello
I have totaly peparied my ES.
Now when i am
finished i started the engine.
I runs like a Opel Omega. Quiet and like a
cat. Rrrrr.
When i push down the clutch everything is ok.
I slowly let
it up and then the hole engine start to shake like Elvis.
I feels like
something doesent fit thogether.
Any suggestion.
Could it be that the
car is hanging in the air and have no pressure from the
wheels on the
transaxel.
Could the cluch make any problems? I dont think so.
I see
that US have a different way to the exaust problem. Your cars have
very low
CO, HC and the demands is much lower. The registration of a new car
must
have harder rules then the yearly/second yearly checkup.
Right?
Hans
_________________________________________________________________
Med
MSN Foto kan du enkelt dela med dig av dina fotografier och beställa
kopior:
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 10:32:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Adam Knowlton <
knowltodu@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Bumper Part Number
Unfortunately last Saturday one of the
worlds many
idiot drivers targeted my car and now my bumper has
the
license plate literally pinned to it. Any
information regarding the
part number of the front
bumper or if repairing the existing bumper is
an
option would be greatly appreciated.
Adam
'92 R/T
TT
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#921
***************************************