Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, August 9
2002 Volume 01 : Number
920
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Aug 2002 08:28:21 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Aluminum Flywheel Opinions and clutches?
Doug...
Are
you sure about that "510 ft/lbs" on the pressure plate? I had a Broward six puck
racing disc installed with an ACT 2,800 ft. lbs. pressure plate and, as I
recall, this was about 50% over stock. If this is true, it would mean the stock
pressure plate is somewhere just under 2,000 ft. lbs. and your new one is
roughly a quarter of the stock pressure. Something seems wrong with this, as 500
ft. lbs. would likely fail to hold the disc against the flywheel with stock hp,
much less any mods.
BTW...my hybrid setup with the Broward six puck disc,
ACT pressure plate, Centerforce throwout bearing, and stock flywheel works
GREAT. True, it doesn't slip due to the disc design (no springs), but it engages
smoothly and has held up under repeated hard launches. However, I wouldn't
recommend it for commuting in heavy traffic.
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 5:11
PM
To: Team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aluminum Flywheel Opinions and
clutches?
I just had a RPS 6 puck sprung street clutch rated at 510
ft/lbs installed in my car. I found that the pedal was easier than stock
to press in. The cluch grabs significantly more than the stock
clutch. It took me a few days to get used to it. I stalled out quite
a few times. Now that I am used to it, I like it. I know when I
apply power and let out the clutch that the power will go to the wheels and not
smoke the clutch.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:31:37
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
Like I said in my original post, don't
yell at me - make
your own decisions about it. After this message, I'm
out of this topic.
> I would rather be off a few ft*lbs on
torque
> from dry thread to lubricated thread rather
> than snap a
wheel stud at a track 15 hours
> away from home.
The problem is
that lubed threads increase the stretch
of the fastener (bolt or stud or
whatever) since lower
applied torque on lubed threads increases the pull on
the fastener more than dry threads (the friction on the
dry threads
resists some of the torque). By torquing
lubed threads you are
stretching the bolt/stud more,
making it more likely to break a wheel
stud. Whether
antisieze provides enough lubrication or not to make
this significant, I don't know.
Believe in what you like - I didn't
say it was a fact
that one way is better than another. I'm just saying
that I personally believe that it isn't a good idea.
> It is
interesting data but are you saying you
> would trust your life on a race
track when only
> torquing your lugnuts to between 38.0 and 47.5
>
ft*lbs? I'm not.
No, I am saying that I would not use antisieze on
wheel
lugs and would use the proper torque value, set with a
beam-style
torque wrench. I had my brand-new clicker-
style torque wrench tested
against a beam-type and a
dial-type Snap-On by my machine shop and the
clicker was
off 23 ft. pounds too high at the 50 ft-lb. setting. Go
figure. I now use beam torque wrenches since there's
nothing
mechanical to throw off the reading when
properly
used.
Anyway...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 11:41:21
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Aluminum Flywheel Opinions and clutches?
Hey Chris, I believe
the rating he is referring to is the FT/lbs of torque
the clutch is capable
of holding at the flywheel... Of note is that RPS has
out both a
Carbon/Carbon twin disc set up and a Carbon single disc set up
The single
is rated to 600 ft/lbs of torque and the twin is rated at 1K
ft/lbs (not sure
why any one would want to put that much torque through
their driveline but
hey if you aren't breaking it I guess you aren't making
enough
power)
Russ F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Chris Winkley [SMTP:Chris_Winkley@adp.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 08,
2002 11:28 AM
> To: dakken; Team3s
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum
Flywheel Opinions and clutches?
>
> Doug...
>
> Are
you sure about that "510 ft/lbs" on the pressure plate? I had a
> Broward
six puck racing disc installed with an ACT 2,800 ft. lbs. pressure
> plate
and, as I recall, this was about 50% over stock. If this is true, it
>
would mean the stock pressure plate is somewhere just under 2,000 ft.
lbs.
> and your new one is roughly a quarter of the stock pressure.
Something
> seems wrong with this, as 500 ft. lbs. would likely fail to
hold the disc
> against the flywheel with stock hp, much less any
mods.
>
> BTW...my hybrid setup with the Broward six puck disc, ACT
pressure plate,
> Centerforce throwout bearing, and stock flywheel works
GREAT. True, it
> doesn't slip due to the disc design (no springs), but it
engages smoothly
> and has held up under repeated hard launches. However,
I wouldn't
> recommend it for commuting in heavy traffic.
>
>
Looking forward...Chris
-
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:44:52
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aluminum Flywheel Opinions and clutches?
Chris,
The
large number you are referring to is the "setting load" of the pressure
plate. This is measured in pounds. Stock AWD plates have a setting load of
about 2000 lbs or so.
The smaller number Doug is using is a rating of
the torque handling ability of
the clutch assembly - in foot-pounds. Mitsu
does not provide us with a
measurement of this.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:55:21
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
For the folks that respect Carroll
Smith (and who doesn't?), he has a book out
on the general topic of
fasteners. Amazingly, Carroll wrote a fascinating book
on a rather dry
subject. "Torquing" is well covered.
Carroll Smith, 1990, Carroll Smith's
Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners and Plumbing
Handbook: MBI, 223 p.
Since
the brakes are close to the wheel studs, I'll mention that Carroll is
also
associated with StopTech, the makers of *improved* "F-40" and "F-50"
brake
calipers.
http://www.stoptech.com/Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:25:34
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 95' VR-4 Brake install on a 91 SL
> I'm not saying its a
problem, but gooping anti-seize on
> studs/bolts that don't really need it
might not be the best
> plan in all cases and could actually cause the
sorts of
> failures (broken studs) you are trying to prevent.
Just
to throw another data point in here:
2000 Eclipse GT (Same brakes as NA
3/S, 17" wheels)
18,000mi, wheels just rotated and properly torqued
No
anti-seize
1 track day (road course), about 90 miles
When removing wheels
the next day, one of the lugnuts
stuck to the stud and the stud twisted
off
and broke.
Using anti-seize now and it's never been a problem
since.
Make of it what you like. It does make sense that you're
overtorquing the
lug nuts if you torque them to dry specs and you have a
lubricant on them.
"By how much" is the question of the day.
The comment (on the thread Matt mentioned) of, "Anti-sieze is not needed
on
wheel lugs, due to the fact there never on long anough to sieze in the
first
place, if your rotating your tire's like you should." bothers me a
little
since I'd imagine this only applies to street cars. In my
experience, even
if you rotate your tires immediately before and after a
track event, the lug
nuts can still seize to the studs.
- --Erik
no
anti-seize on the new VR-4 yet... rethinking that...
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:27:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject:
[none]
http://www.stillen.com/brakepros_detail.asp?subcat=142&id=12946&page=1__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:28:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brembro Brakes
I am seriously considering buying these.
I need your
thoughts.....
Brembro 305600
http://www.stillen.com/brakepros_detail.asp?subcat=142&id=12946&page=1Roger
L
F15DOC
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 13:32:18
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE:
That kit uses a 12.5 inch rotor and 4 piston calipers (used
to be Brembo but
now appears to be AP calipers) Is a good upgrade but you are
better off
looking for the AP kit with the 13.5 inch rotor and the 6 piston
caliper.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-brakeupgrade.htmuse
this link about half way down has all the specifications for all the
big
brake kits.
Russ F
CT
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Roger Ludwig [SMTP:yiotta@yahoo.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 1:28 PM
> To: TEAM 3S
> Subject:
>
>
http://www.stillen.com/brakepros_detail.asp?subcat=142&id=12946&page=1>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
>
http://www.hotjobs.com>
>
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This
e-mail transmission may contain information that is proprietary, privileged
and/or confidential and is intended exclusively for the person(s) to whom it is
addressed. Any use, copying, retention or disclosure by any person other than
the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly
prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:52:39
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brembro Brakes
There is/was a guy on the 3SI.org site trying to sell a
set of them used
for $1000 --- I posted before on it but nobody seemed
interested.
It would be a hell of a
buy.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Ludwig" <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
To: "TEAM 3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
August 08, 2002 10:28 AM
Subject: Team3S: Brembro Brakes
> I am
seriously considering buying these.
> I need your thoughts.....
>
Brembro 305600
>
>
http://www.stillen.com/brakepros_detail.asp?subcat=142&id=12946&page=1>
> Roger L
> F15DOC
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
>
http://www.hotjobs.com>
>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:25:34
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
Who's yelling, Matt. I just
received word from a very good friend of
mine and fantastic Mechanical
Engineer that it does increase the torque
but he gave a number much lower of
around 20%. Sure that study might be
right and anything applied will
increase it (Silly Putty, peanut butter,
concealed chicken fat, etc.) but to
what extent each one increases or
decreases is what is important.
Like
I said, I don't goop it on there but apply just a little and it
stays for
about a year when I apply it again. If it does increase it,
say, 20%
then my torque of 95 ft*lbs would be around 114 ft*lbs and the
recommended
range is anywhere from 87-101 ft*lbs. Maybe I'll drop mine
to 90 ft*lbs
until I can verify the torque of the wrench like you did
(where did you
verify this by the way - I had mine serviced by Sears
somewhere in Texas and
a month later received it back but I didn't think
to have them verify the
torque it was applying).
I just found the answer from Loctite themselves
and I'm not sure what
Luke@TireRack was
talking about when he mentioned "most lubricant tables
recommend a 40-45%
reduction in torque" but it is not scientific as you
said.
http://www.loctite.com/pdf/antiseize.pdf>From
this Product Guide page the compound I have (the silver one) is
rated at 0.18
which is the "torque coefficient or nut factor,
determined
experimentally." "[These factors] are obtained on Grade 8,
1/2" steel
bolts and grade 5 nuts by a test procedure which measures torque
tension
properties. Lubricant was applied to the bolt threads and both
faces of
the washer."
Now I do not coat "both sides of the washer" and
do not liberally coat
the threads as they show in their pictures so I'm
assuming that my
number is quite a bit less than theirs but who knows by how
much. I've
not gooped it up that much because it is expensive, it lasts
a long
time, and it gets my fingers all silver when I handle the lugnuts so
I'd
prefer to keep it neat and clean.
The coefficient of friction of
the silver stuff at 68 F is 0.077 and at
1,400 F it is 0.164. Further
testing on 3/8x16 nuts and bolts in a
Skidmore-Wilhelm apparatus from torque
at 5,000 lbs tension yielded in a
factor of 0.18.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSent: Thursday,
August 08, 2002 11:32
Like I said in my original post, don't yell at me -
make
your own decisions about it. After this message, I'm
out of
this topic.
The problem is that lubed threads increase the stretch
of
the fastener (bolt or stud or whatever) since lower
applied torque on lubed
threads increases the pull on
the fastener more than dry threads (the
friction on the
dry threads resists some of the torque). By torquing
lubed threads you are stretching the bolt/stud more,
making it more
likely to break a wheel stud. Whether
antisieze provides enough
lubrication or not to make
this significant, I don't know.
Believe in
what you like - I didn't say it was a fact
that one way is better than
another. I'm just saying
that I personally believe that it isn't a
good idea.
No, I am saying that I would not use antisieze on wheel
lugs and would use the proper torque value, set with a
beam-style torque
wrench. I had my brand-new clicker-
style torque wrench tested against
a beam-type and a
dial-type Snap-On by my machine shop and the clicker was
off 23 ft. pounds too high at the 50 ft-lb. setting. Go
figure. I now use beam torque wrenches since there's
nothing
mechanical to throw off the reading when
properly used.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 11:58:27
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brembro Brakes
Well, if their brake setups fit as well as their
downpipe, have your hammer
and dremmel tool ready.... I have not looked at
what caliper prices are, but
I got nicer rotors than those, Brembos,
drilled/vented/slotted for all 4 for
like $350. $2xxx sounds way too high to
me....
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger Ludwig
Sent: Thursday,
August 08, 2002 10:29 AM
To: TEAM 3S
Subject: Team3S: Brembro
Brakes
I am seriously considering buying these.
I need your
thoughts.....
Brembro 305600
http://www.stillen.com/brakepros_detail.asp?subcat=142&id=12946&page=1Roger
L
F15DOC
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 14:03:43
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brembro Brakes
I can personally vouch for the Big Reds, and
they are half the price.
You might want to talk to Oskar about Stillen
rotors. He has a photo of a broken Stillen rotor that'll scare you.
Rich/slow old poop
Big Reds, SS lines, Carbotech Panther Plus pads,
cryogenically treated stock rotors, bilge blower cooling.
>
>I am
seriously considering buying these.
>I need your
thoughts.....
>Brembro
305600
>
>http://www.stillen.com/brakepros_detail.asp?subcat=142&id=12946&page=1
>
>
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 12:27:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
regarding anti-sieze in general, when I
had to remove the front axles from
my car, the axle nut was on there so tight
and was rusted, so that I had
to not only use a monster breaker bar, but also
had to slide a monster
piece of pipe over the handle. I applied
anti-sieze when reassembling. I
have also used it on lug nuts from time
to time but was not aware of the
risks of applying more strain to the bolts
due to the lowered friction.
i'm concerned about one poster's remarks
about huge innacuracies with
clicker torque wrenches. How can I get my
torque wrenches checked out?
Dave
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 12:41:18
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
This is a very interesting thread.
Personally, I put on just a small dab of
anti seize on my wheel studs. It
really helps them come off. Without it you
sometimes need a breaker bar and
that is when studs break. I have never
heard of a stud with a little coating
cause a problem. If anyone else has
heard of problems caused by a little
antiseize on a wheel stud I would like
to hear about it.
Andy
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Antisieze on wheel
studs
| For the folks that respect Carroll Smith (and who doesn't?),
he has a book
out
| on the general topic of fasteners. Amazingly, Carroll
wrote a fascinating
book
| on a rather dry subject. "Torquing" is well
covered.
|
| Carroll Smith, 1990, Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts and
Fasteners and
Plumbing
| Handbook: MBI, 223 p.
|
| Since the brakes
are close to the wheel studs, I'll mention that Carroll
is
| also
associated with StopTech, the makers of *improved* "F-40" and "F-50"
| brake
calipers.
|
|
http://www.stoptech.com/|
| Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/|
|
|
|
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:11:28
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
Having survived a dozen or so
driving events, wherein tires get changed four times (streets to race, swap side
to side, swap front to rear, then race tires back to streets) on a weekend, let
me offer some advice:
First, I apply anti-sieze once a year on the wheel
studs. Just enough to "paint" the studs. A little goes a long way, and one app
lasts a year. I broke off three wheel studs before I learned this trick.
Second, if you are going racing, invest in a battery powered impact
wrench. Going scree, scree, scree is far faster than working with a ratchet.
Third, torque is not critical. Just snug them up with the impact wrench,
let the car down, and torque them to 90-95 ft-lb while everything is COLD. If
you use cryogenically treated rotors, you won't warp them no matter what you do.
I have NEVER warped a cryo rotor, and I've been through three sets of them.
Torque? Snug is good. Overtightening is bad. I don't think exact torque
matters much, but I torque my lug nuts because...well, because I have a wrench.
No wrench? Use the Armstrong method.I know lots of guys who use Armstrong torque
wrenches, and have no problems.
Before every run, go around the car with
a ratchet to see if any lug nut has come loose. DO NOT TORQUE ALL THE NUTS AGAIN
WHEN THEY ARE HOT. If you find a loose one, snug it up, but leave the rest
alone. If you try to torque hot nuts (I remember those guys from my college
days), that's when you overtorque them so much that you snap the wheel stud off
later, trying to remove the lug nut.
I usually swap front tires side to
side on Saturday, and front to rear on Sunday morning. On Saturday, I swap them
at lunchtime so everything is nice and cool, and I can tighten the lug nuts
safely.
Even if you don't swap tires, check the torque all around on
Sunday morning, while everything is cold.
These procedures have worked
well for me, and I have not warped a rotor or snapped off a wheel stud in two
years.
Rich/slow old poop
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 13:23:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brembro Brakes
Tell me more about these "big Reds".
Roger
L
F15DOC
- --- "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net"
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> I can personally vouch for the Big Reds, and they
> are
half the price.
>
> You might want to talk to Oskar about
Stillen
> rotors. He has a photo of a broken Stillen rotor
> that'll
scare you.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> Big Reds, SS lines,
Carbotech Panther Plus pads,
> cryogenically treated stock rotors, bilge
blower
> cooling.
> >
> >I am seriously considering
buying these.
> >I need your thoughts.....
> >Brembro
305600
>
>
>
>http://www.stillen.com/brakepros_detail.asp?subcat=142&id=12946&page=1
>
>
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:28:28
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brembro Brakes
I'd suggest you doing an archive search as
there is plenty of information in
there.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chwillwood,Porsche,Brembo,Bremsa...
what else has been on my car yet ??
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Ludwig" <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
To: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>; "TEAM
3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 10:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembro
Brakes
> Tell me more about these "big Reds".
> Roger
L
> F15DOC
>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:38:07
-0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: car bogs on launch
I have had the same issue and have done
pretty much as you have plus
replaced the fuel pump, installed an HKS Super
AFR, and turned down the
boost. It only stops if I run less boost than the
factory setting but
will still stutter on takeoff if I don't raise the rpms
more than
normal. 95 Stealth AWD TT, ATR Exhaust, Magnecor wires, Supra Pump,
Red
Line 20w50.
Any suggestions I'd appreciate
Ben.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Justin Sturgeon
[mailto:justinstur@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 8:35
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: car bogs on launch
i think i have most of my problems fixed but i
am still having a little
bit
of a problem. i just replaced my ecu
and ignition coil pack. Plugs
(NGK),
wires, water pump, timiing
belt etc are all new. Like i said, most of
the
previous problems
are fixed and the car runs great. But when i launch
the
car, even
for a medium power launch, the car bogs and seems to take
about a
second
for the engine to wind up. when this happens i can hear the
exhaust
kind of sputter. it doesn't do it if i just pull up to a stop sign and
immediatly launch, but if i sit a light for a moment it will bog.
i
notice
that the oil pressure will drop if the car idles for a few
moments and i
know this is somewhat normal.
also, the car does not
hesitate when i first start it and drive away.
again, the oil is not
warmed up so the pressure is higher then. i don't
know if this is
related to oil pressure or not, but i have noticed
this pattern.
i have
checked the crank angle sensor, there are not ecu codes, and i
also
replaced the fuel filter. I have a 91 stealth r/t na w/ k&n
fipk.
has anyone else had this problem or does anyone have any
suggestions.
thanks in advance for the help.
justin
sturgeon
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:47:39
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brembro Brakes
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
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I
got em on Ebay. I just looked in my email archives. I got em for $245 +
$35
Shipping from a guy names Donny Lam. This was like almost 2 years ago
now...
His email was
don_2nv@yahoo.comTyson
-
-----Original Message-----
From: John Sheehan
[mailto:Johns@KYSO.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 1:20 PM
To: Tigran
Varosyan
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brembro Brakes
Where did you get the
rotors for that price? Thanx, john 93 VR-4
Tigran Varosyan
wrote:
> Well, if their brake setups fit as well as their downpipe,
have your
hammer
> and dremmel tool ready.... I have not looked at what
caliper prices are,
but
> I got nicer rotors than those, Brembos,
drilled/vented/slotted for all 4
for
> like $350. $2xxx sounds way too
high to me....
>
> Tyson
>
>
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Roger Ludwig
> Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 10:29 AM
> To: TEAM 3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Brembro Brakes
>
>
> I am seriously considering buying
these.
> I need your thoughts.....
> Brembro 305600
>
>
http://www.stillen.com/brakepros_detail.asp?subcat=142&id=12946&page=1>
> Roger L
> F15DOC
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
>
http://www.hotjobs.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
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*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:53:21
-0700
From: John Sheehan <
Johns@KYSO.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
propane injection explained ???
Wow, Watch out! I use to work at a
refilling station while going to
school. We refurbed tanks turned in and
setup new ones with our logo. I
saw many, very many bad or defective with
only a few uses! Scary, I
won't have a Barbeque with one anymore. The
smaller tank sounds better.
Take a look at what plumbers use, much better
approval rating and very
strong and I never saw one of those with a problem.
Temp=pressure
buildup is an issue. Be careful! Take care, john
Tigran
Varosyan wrote:
> Well, off-road or on if the thing blows and hurts
someone there will be
> bacon to fry. I plan to have a waiver written up
by my lawyer friend which
> will have to be signed. You can mount the
thing anywhere you want, I chose
> to mount mine under the hood. My system
will work in the passenger
> compartment or in the trunk just as good as
any out there. The company that
> this will be sold under is also an
unprofitable LLC so personally nobody can
> touch me. They can claim the
company assets which will be consisting of
> tools and equipment costing
less than $2000. I do not plan to have anyone
> hurt by this project and
am 100% sure that if anything will ever happen it
> will be the fault of
the user/installer. I will look into the tanks you were
> talking about,
but from what I have seen so far, everyone uses standard BBQ
> tanks. I
got me some tiny 1Gal tanks which last about 3 tanks of gas. I
> think
that due to smaller size they will be much stronger than the bigger
> ones
(like an egg).
>
> Tyson
>
>
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 11:43
AM
> To: Tigran Varosyan
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
>
>
> I
applaude your desire to build a well tested system --- however ---
you're
> leaving yourself open to legal action if you recommend the
placement of
> the tank in the engine compartment. The tanks are NOT
approved for use
> in a motor fuel application --- they are rated by the
manufacturer for
> outdoor use at temperatures not to exceed 120º F and a
pressure of 240 psi.
> I was told the tanks will probably hold twice that
pressure but you'd like
> at
> least a 100% safety margin. ASME
tanks are rated for use as a automotive
> fuel tank but are built to much
stronger specs.
>
> BTY --- it may be "rating crap" but if somebody
drags your ass into a
> courtroom
> because a tank blew the lawyers
will have a field day. I don't make this
> stuff up
> I just pass it
on. Import Power doesn't recommend a tank and says it's for
> offroad use
only --- a wise decision.
>
> The area to look [ for California
anyway ] is California Code of
> Regulations,
> Title 13, section
930 --- they have info on the requirements for tanks. I
> haven't
>
read it but I did take a quick look.
>
> Jim Berry
>
=======================================================
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
> To:
"'fastmax'" <
fastmax@cox.net>
>
Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:54 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: propane
injection explained ???
>
>
>
>>Yes the valve does
pop at around 300 (325 on my tank) PSI and engine bay
>>temps get much
higher than 150... The system I have on my car has a line
>>
>
to
>
>>re-route vented gas to under the car chassis preventing
any formation of
>>pockets. I have tried to light the leaking propane
from the valve, no
>>
> dice.
>
>>It will not go
up. I don't know what this rating crap is about. If the
>>overpressure
valve pops off at 300 it makes no sence that the tank would
>>hold any
less. I had my tank to near 400 PSI and it held its own... I
also
>>know people (roofers) who use propane torches to heat up their
tanks when
>>they get cold. I feel that under the hood you get MUCH
better performance
>>because you get all the benefits of a bottle
warmer without the expense.
>>
> It
>
>>is the
safest place for it in my opinion. If I had to be in a car in
a
>>propane explosion, I would not want it to be anywhere in the
cabin... The
>>firewall and the hood should also protect the people
within, diving the
>>force of the blast down and forward. The hose
leading up to the intake is
>>much shorter. My system also uses a
special port made on to the Y-Pipes
>>
> that
>
>>I manufacture to inject the stuff. Injecting it into existing ports
in the
>>plenum is plain stupid in my opinion... etc etc
etc.
>>
>>Unlike just about everyone out there I did not go
"OOOOHHH PROPANE! New
>>
> cool
>
>>thing! Lets
make it and sell it!" (To use an example the guy at
>>Importpoweronline
who started to take orders and was selling his system
>>before he even
had a working prototype of a like-model retail system. Not
>>
>
to
>
>>mention that his valves he uses and whole system is
under-rated for the
>>application.) I have been working with the stuff
for a long time now,
>>
> since
>
>>before all
the buzz on 3si and I want to have a functional system that is
>>better
than anything else out there. I have already achieved the latter,
I
>>just feel that a bit more testing and some track times are needed
before
>>
> it
>
>>goes up for
sale.
>>
>>Tyson
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
>>Sent:
Wednesday, August 07, 2002 9:24 AM
>>To: Tigran Varosyan;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: propane injection explained
???
>>
>>
>>Not sure what you're using for propane
storage but a DOT certified tank is
>>NOT safe in the engine
compartment ---- the temps in the engine bay can
>>exceed 150º which
results in a tank vapor pressure of up to 300 psi which
>>exceeds the
tank safety relief valve settings. In addition the DOT tanks
>>
>
are
>
>>rated at 240 psi and California State requires a
tank rated in excess of
>>250 psi. The only commercial tanks that fit
those requirements are the
>>
> ASME
>
>>spec
tanks which also includes the check valve that closes if the
valves
>>
> are
>
>>damaged. The smallest I've
found are 25# tanks and are 9" in diameter
>>and 20" long. I have no
doubt you could get a custom tank designed but I'd
>>think the cost
would be very
high.
>>
>> Jim
Berry
>>===================================================
>>-----
Original Message -----
>>From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
>>To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>>Sent:
Wednesday, August 07, 2002 12:15 AM
>>Subject: RE: Team3S: propane
injection explained ???
>>
>>
>>
>>>I
have made my own propane setup which I planned to market, but am
still
>>>testing. I think that my system and the best out there thus
far, but I
>>>
> am
>
>>>keeping it under
wraps until I am 100% satisfied with it and till I
can
>>>
>>get
>>
>>>a copyright to the
design. I have been using it for about a month with
>>>awesome
results. The system currently on my car is mounted under
the
>>>
> hood
>
>>>for many reasons,
safety being one of them. One thing I can say is that
>>>
>
I
>
>>>did not expect nearly as much of an improvement form
it as I have had.
I
>>>
>>did
>>
>>>some math and the
propane under boost would make up less than 20% of the
>>>total fuel
going into the engine. Having as the octane ratings were
so
>>>close, 92 and 104 I did not expect a big difference, but
reading some of
>>>
>>the
>>
>>>knock
sensor outputs before and after I am simply stunned. There is
no
>>>
>>more
>>
>>>knock, period! I
do not know the science behind it, but it works
and
>>>
>>that's
>>
>>>all there is to
it.
>>>
>>>Tyson
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:27:16
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
This discussion is
interesting. I never thought of the stretching the bolt
more concept
when using a lubricant. How about using something different?
An old
trick that I used to used to get stripped screws out of aircraft was
to add
Ajax cleaning powder to the screw driver. The extra grit would
allow
the screw driver to grab the screw and thus you could use more torque
to get
them out. What if a powder like Ajax was used to add an extra
layer between
the wheel stud and the lug nut? It would increase the
torque needed to take
the nut off as the metal heated and may keep it from
seizing.
Just my $0.02.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 20:40:55
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
Hey does anyone know if you
have a custom tank made, if they can fill it
in the car?
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: John Sheehan
[mailto:Johns@KYSO.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 6:53 PM
To:
Tigran Varosyan
Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
Wow, Watch out! I use to work
at a refilling station while going to
school. We refurbed tanks turned in
and setup new ones with our logo. I
saw many, very many bad or defective
with only a few uses! Scary, I
won't have a Barbeque with one anymore. The
smaller tank sounds better.
Take a look at what plumbers use, much better
approval rating and very
strong and I never saw one of those with a problem.
Temp=pressure
buildup is an issue. Be careful! Take care, john
Tigran
Varosyan wrote:
> Well, off-road or on if the thing blows and hurts
someone there will
be
> bacon to fry. I plan to have a waiver written
up by my lawyer friend
which
> will have to be signed. You can mount
the thing anywhere you want, I
chose
> to mount mine under the hood. My
system will work in the passenger
> compartment or in the trunk just as
good as any out there. The company
that
> this will be sold under is
also an unprofitable LLC so personally
nobody can
> touch me. They can
claim the company assets which will be consisting
of
> tools and
equipment costing less than $2000. I do not plan to have
anyone
> hurt
by this project and am 100% sure that if anything will ever
happen it
>
will be the fault of the user/installer. I will look into the tanks
you
were
> talking about, but from what I have seen so far, everyone
uses
standard BBQ
> tanks. I got me some tiny 1Gal tanks which last
about 3 tanks of gas.
I
> think that due to smaller size they will be
much stronger than the
bigger
> ones (like an egg).
>
>
Tyson
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002
11:43 AM
> To: Tigran Varosyan
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
>
>
> I
applaude your desire to build a well tested system --- however
---
you're
> leaving yourself open to legal action if you recommend the
placement
of
> the tank in the engine compartment. The tanks are NOT
approved for use
> in a motor fuel application --- they are rated by the
manufacturer for
> outdoor use at temperatures not to exceed 120º F and a
pressure of 240
psi.
> I was told the tanks will probably hold twice
that pressure but you'd
like
> at
> least a 100% safety margin.
ASME tanks are rated for use as a
automotive
> fuel tank but are built
to much stronger specs.
>
> BTY --- it may be "rating crap" but if
somebody drags your ass into a
> courtroom
> because a tank blew the
lawyers will have a field day. I don't make
this
> stuff up
> I
just pass it on. Import Power doesn't recommend a tank and says
it's
for
> offroad use only --- a wise decision.
>
> The
area to look [ for California anyway ] is California Code of
>
Regulations,
> Title 13, section 930 --- they have info on the
requirements for
tanks. I
> haven't
> read it but I did take a
quick look.
>
> Jim
Berry
> =======================================================
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
> To:
"'fastmax'" <
fastmax@cox.net>
>
Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:54 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: propane
injection explained ???
>
>
>
>>Yes the valve does
pop at around 300 (325 on my tank) PSI and engine
bay
>>temps get
much higher than 150... The system I have on my car has
a
line
>>
> to
>
>>re-route vented gas to
under the car chassis preventing any formation
of
>>pockets. I have
tried to light the leaking propane from the valve, no
>>
>
dice.
>
>>It will not go up. I don't know what this rating crap
is about. If the
>>overpressure valve pops off at 300 it makes no sence
that the tank
would
>>hold any less. I had my tank to near 400 PSI
and it held its own... I
also
>>know people (roofers) who use
propane torches to heat up their tanks
when
>>they get cold. I feel
that under the hood you get MUCH better
performance
>>because you
get all the benefits of a bottle warmer without
the
expense.
>>
> It
>
>>is the safest place
for it in my opinion. If I had to be in a car in a
>>propane explosion,
I would not want it to be anywhere in the cabin...
The
>>firewall
and the hood should also protect the people within,
diving
the
>>force of the blast down and forward. The hose leading
up to the intake
is
>>much shorter. My system also uses a special
port made on to the
Y-Pipes
>>
> that
>
>>I
manufacture to inject the stuff. Injecting it into existing ports
in
the
>>plenum is plain stupid in my opinion... etc etc
etc.
>>
>>Unlike just about everyone out there I did not go
"OOOOHHH PROPANE!
New
>>
> cool
>
>>thing!
Lets make it and sell it!" (To use an example the guy
at
>>Importpoweronline who started to take orders and was selling
his
system
>>before he even had a working prototype of a like-model
retail system.
Not
>>
> to
>
>>mention that
his valves he uses and whole system is under-rated
for
the
>>application.) I have been working with the stuff for a
long time now,
>>
> since
>
>>before all the buzz
on 3si and I want to have a functional system that
is
>>better than
anything else out there. I have already achieved the
latter,
I
>>just feel that a bit more testing and some track times are
needed
before
>>
> it
>
>>goes up for
sale.
>>
>>Tyson
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
>>Sent:
Wednesday, August 07, 2002 9:24 AM
>>To: Tigran Varosyan;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: propane injection explained
???
>>
>>
>>Not sure what you're using for propane
storage but a DOT certified
tank is
>>NOT safe in the engine
compartment ---- the temps in the engine bay
can
>>exceed 150º which
results in a tank vapor pressure of up to 300 psi
which
>>exceeds
the tank safety relief valve settings. In addition the
DOT
tanks
>>
> are
>
>>rated at 240 psi and
California State requires a tank rated in excess
of
>>250 psi.
The only commercial tanks that fit those requirements are
the
>>
> ASME
>
>>spec tanks which also includes
the check valve that closes if the
valves
>>
> are
>
>>damaged. The smallest I've found are 25# tanks and are 9" in
diameter
>>and 20" long. I have no doubt you could get a custom tank
designed but
I'd
>>think the cost would be very
high.
>>
>> Jim
Berry
>>===================================================
>>-----
Original Message -----
>>From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
>>To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>>Sent:
Wednesday, August 07, 2002 12:15 AM
>>Subject: RE: Team3S: propane
injection explained ???
>>
>>
>>
>>>I
have made my own propane setup which I planned to market, but
am
still
>>>testing. I think that my system and the best out
there thus far, but
I
>>>
> am
>
>>>keeping it under wraps until I am 100% satisfied with it and
till I
can
>>>
>>get
>>
>>>a
copyright to the design. I have been using it for about a
month
with
>>>awesome results. The system currently on my car is
mounted under the
>>>
> hood
>
>>>for many
reasons, safety being one of them. One thing I can say
is
that
>>>
> I
>
>>>did not expect
nearly as much of an improvement form it as I have
had.
I
>>>
>>did
>>
>>>some math and the
propane under boost would make up less than 20% of
the
>>>total
fuel going into the engine. Having as the octane ratings
were
so
>>>close, 92 and 104 I did not expect a big difference,
but reading
some
of
>>>
>>the
>>
>>>knock
sensor outputs before and after I am simply stunned. There
is
no
>>>
>>more
>>
>>>knock,
period! I do not know the science behind it, but it works
and
>>>
>>that's
>>
>>>all there is to
it.
>>>
>>>Tyson
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 20:14:19
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: propane injection explained ???
I would think the tank should be
removable.
Propane is sold by weight. They weigh the tank when you
bring it in and add
propane until correct full weight is achieved.
I
wonder how those smaller propane bottles would work.
How long do you think
they would last before running out.
Rich
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
To: "John
Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 7:40 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: propane injection
explained ???
> Hey does anyone know if you have a custom tank
made, if they can fill it
> in the car? Thanks
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: John Sheehan
[mailto:Johns@KYSO.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 6:53 PM
>
To: Tigran Varosyan
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
>
> Wow, Watch
out! I use to work at a refilling station while going to
> school. We
refurbed tanks turned in and setup new ones with our logo. I
> saw many,
very many bad or defective with only a few uses! Scary, I
> won't have a
Barbeque with one anymore. The smaller tank sounds better.
> Take a look
at what plumbers use, much better approval rating and very
> strong and I
never saw one of those with a problem. Temp=pressure
> buildup is an
issue. Be careful! Take care, john
>
> Tigran Varosyan
wrote:
>
> > Well, off-road or on if the thing blows and hurts
someone there will
> be
> > bacon to fry. I plan to have a waiver
written up by my lawyer friend
> which
> > will have to be
signed. You can mount the thing anywhere you want, I
> chose
> >
to mount mine under the hood. My system will work in the passenger
> >
compartment or in the trunk just as good as any out there. The company
>
that
> > this will be sold under is also an unprofitable LLC so
personally
> nobody can
> > touch me. They can claim the company
assets which will be consisting
> of
> > tools and equipment
costing less than $2000. I do not plan to have
> anyone
> > hurt
by this project and am 100% sure that if anything will ever
> happen
it
> > will be the fault of the user/installer. I will look into the
tanks
> you were
> > talking about, but from what I have seen so
far, everyone uses
> standard BBQ
> > tanks. I got me some tiny
1Gal tanks which last about 3 tanks of gas.
> I
> > think that
due to smaller size they will be much stronger than the
> bigger
>
> ones (like an egg).
> >
> > Tyson
> >
>
>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002
11:43 AM
> > To: Tigran Varosyan
> > Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
> >
>
>
> > I applaude your desire to build a well tested system ---
however ---
> you're
> > leaving yourself open to legal action if
you recommend the placement
> of
> > the tank in the engine
compartment. The tanks are NOT approved for use
> > in a motor fuel
application --- they are rated by the manufacturer for
> > outdoor use
at temperatures not to exceed 120º F and a pressure of 240
> psi.
>
> I was told the tanks will probably hold twice that pressure but
you'd
> like
> > at
> > least a 100% safety margin. ASME
tanks are rated for use as a
> automotive
> > fuel tank but are
built to much stronger specs.
> >
> > BTY --- it may be
"rating crap" but if somebody drags your ass into a
> >
courtroom
> > because a tank blew the lawyers will have a field day. I
don't make
> this
> > stuff up
> > I just pass it on.
Import Power doesn't recommend a tank and says it's
> for
> >
offroad use only --- a wise decision.
> >
> > The area to look
[ for California anyway ] is California Code of
> >
Regulations,
> > Title 13, section 930 --- they have info on the
requirements for
> tanks. I
> > haven't
> > read it but
I did take a quick look.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
=======================================================
> >
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
> > To:
"'fastmax'" <
fastmax@cox.net>
>
> Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:54 AM
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
propane injection explained ???
> >
> >
> >
>
>>Yes the valve does pop at around 300 (325 on my tank) PSI and
engine
> bay
> >>temps get much higher than 150... The system
I have on my car has a
> line
> >>
> > to
>
>
> >>re-route vented gas to under the car chassis preventing any
formation
> of
> >>pockets. I have tried to light the leaking
propane from the valve, no
> >>
> > dice.
>
>
> >>It will not go up. I don't know what this rating crap is
about. If the
> >>overpressure valve pops off at 300 it makes no
sence that the tank
> would
> >>hold any less. I had my tank
to near 400 PSI and it held its own... I
> also
> >>know
people (roofers) who use propane torches to heat up their tanks
>
when
> >>they get cold. I feel that under the hood you get MUCH
better
> performance
> >>because you get all the benefits of a
bottle warmer without the
> expense.
> >>
> >
It
> >
> >>is the safest place for it in my opinion. If I
had to be in a car in a
> >>propane explosion, I would not want it
to be anywhere in the cabin...
> The
> >>firewall and the hood
should also protect the people within, diving
> the
> >>force
of the blast down and forward. The hose leading up to the intake
>
is
> >>much shorter. My system also uses a special port made on to
the
> Y-Pipes
> >>
> > that
> >
>
>>I manufacture to inject the stuff. Injecting it into existing ports
in
> the
> >>plenum is plain stupid in my opinion... etc etc
etc.
> >>
> >>Unlike just about everyone out there I did
not go "OOOOHHH PROPANE!
> New
> >>
> > cool
>
>
> >>thing! Lets make it and sell it!" (To use an example the
guy at
> >>Importpoweronline who started to take orders and was
selling his
> system
> >>before he even had a working
prototype of a like-model retail system.
> Not
> >>
>
> to
> >
> >>mention that his valves he uses and whole
system is under-rated for
> the
> >>application.) I have been
working with the stuff for a long time now,
> >>
> >
since
> >
> >>before all the buzz on 3si and I want to have
a functional system that
> is
> >>better than anything else
out there. I have already achieved the
> latter, I
> >>just
feel that a bit more testing and some track times are needed
>
before
> >>
> > it
> >
> >>goes up for
sale.
> >>
> >>Tyson
> >>
>
>>
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
>
>>From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> >>Sent: Wednesday,
August 07, 2002 9:24 AM
> >>To: Tigran Varosyan;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>>Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
>
>>
> >>
> >>Not sure what you're using for propane
storage but a DOT certified
> tank is
> >>NOT safe in the
engine compartment ---- the temps in the engine bay
> can
>
>>exceed 150º which results in a tank vapor pressure of up to 300
psi
> which
> >>exceeds the tank safety relief valve settings.
In addition the DOT
> tanks
> >>
> > are
>
>
> >>rated at 240 psi and California State requires a tank
rated in excess
> of
> >>250 psi. The only commercial tanks
that fit those requirements are the
> >>
> > ASME
>
>
> >>spec tanks which also includes the check valve that closes
if the
> valves
> >>
> > are
> >
>
>>damaged. The smallest I've found are 25# tanks and are 9" in
diameter
> >>and 20" long. I have no doubt you could get a custom
tank designed but
> I'd
> >>think the cost would be very
high.
> >>
>
>> Jim Berry
>
>>===================================================
>
>>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Tigran Varosyan"
<
tigran@tigran.com>
>
>>To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>>Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 12:15 AM
> >>Subject: RE:
Team3S: propane injection explained ???
> >>
>
>>
> >>
> >>>I have made my own propane setup
which I planned to market, but am
> still
> >>>testing. I
think that my system and the best out there thus far, but
> I
>
>>>
> > am
> >
> >>>keeping it under
wraps until I am 100% satisfied with it and till I
> can
>
>>>
> >>get
> >>
> >>>a
copyright to the design. I have been using it for about a month
>
with
> >>>awesome results. The system currently on my car is
mounted under the
> >>>
> > hood
> >
>
>>>for many reasons, safety being one of them. One thing I can say
is
> that
> >>>
> > I
> >
>
>>>did not expect nearly as much of an improvement form it as I
have
> had. I
> >>>
> >>did
>
>>
> >>>some math and the propane under boost would make up
less than 20% of
> the
> >>>total fuel going into the
engine. Having as the octane ratings were
> so
> >>>close,
92 and 104 I did not expect a big difference, but reading some
>
of
> >>>
> >>the
> >>
>
>>>knock sensor outputs before and after I am simply stunned. There
is
> no
> >>>
> >>more
> >>
>
>>>knock, period! I do not know the science behind it, but it works
and
> >>>
> >>that's
> >>
>
>>>all there is to it.
> >>>
>
>>>Tyson
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>
>>
> >>
> >>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 20:09:41
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
At 04:27 PM 8/8/02 -0700, dakken
wrote:
>This discussion is interesting. I never thought of the
stretching the bolt
>more concept when using a lubricant. How about
using something different?
Last time I heard of that little trick was in
19-ought-75 or so. We were installing robot ultrasonic inspection systems on
nuclear reactors at the B&W plant in Evansville, Indiana (a little west of
there, actually, I forget the name of the town). I was a real-time programmer in
those days. (That was a 16-axis manipulator, for those of you who know such
stuff, and I programmed the motion control on it.)
One of the macho
things to do was to walk under a reactor vessel as it was being taken out to the
barge in the Ohio River. They weighed 700 tons, and the overhead crane took it
out to the barge at a snail's pace. All the macho dudes would walk under it to
prove their manhood (if it fell, they'd be squashed flatter than my Cisco
stock). In those days, B&W was producing two or three vessels a year, so
there were lots of opps to be brave.
But I digress. Back to the
stretched bolts.
Seems that they would bolt down the top of the reactor
vessel with huge stainless steel studs and bolts. The studs were like 6 in. dia,
and the nuts were maybe 12 in. across. Anyway, they'd tighten up the nut and
then -- somehow, I forget exactly how they did it -- they'd STRETCH the
stainless steel stud an inch or so, and take another few turns in the nut. Whoa!
All this pressure would flatten the metal (unobtanium) gasket from 2 in. thick
or so down to nuttin, and seal the vessel. Wild stuff.
*sigh* Nostalgia
just isn't what it used to be.
Rich/slow old poop
walked under a
little one (400 tons)
l
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 21:21:21
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: propane injection explained ???
The people who fill tanks are not
supposed to fill anything that is not a
standard approved tank. I wanted to
cut the handle off of my tank since I
dont need it for anything and they told
me that I could not do that. Some of
the people who fill the stuff are
retarded though. The place I go to, I have
to hook the thing up and do
everything, they just watch because they are
afraid to scratch the
car...
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Joshua G. Prince
Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 5:41 PM
To: John Sheehan;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
Hey does anyone know if
you have a custom tank made, if they can fill it
in the car?
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: John Sheehan
[mailto:Johns@KYSO.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 6:53 PM
To: Tigran
Varosyan
Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
Wow, Watch out! I use to work
at a refilling station while going to
school. We refurbed tanks turned in and
setup new ones with our logo. I
saw many, very many bad or defective with
only a few uses! Scary, I
won't have a Barbeque with one anymore. The smaller
tank sounds better.
Take a look at what plumbers use, much better approval
rating and very
strong and I never saw one of those with a problem.
Temp=pressure
buildup is an issue. Be careful! Take care, john
Tigran
Varosyan wrote:
> Well, off-road or on if the thing blows and hurts
someone there will
be
> bacon to fry. I plan to have a waiver written
up by my lawyer friend
which
> will have to be signed. You can mount
the thing anywhere you want, I
chose
> to mount mine under the hood. My
system will work in the passenger
> compartment or in the trunk just as
good as any out there. The company
that
> this will be sold under is
also an unprofitable LLC so personally
nobody can
> touch me. They can
claim the company assets which will be consisting
of
> tools and
equipment costing less than $2000. I do not plan to have
anyone
> hurt
by this project and am 100% sure that if anything will ever
happen it
>
will be the fault of the user/installer. I will look into the tanks
you
were
> talking about, but from what I have seen so far, everyone
uses
standard BBQ
> tanks. I got me some tiny 1Gal tanks which last
about 3 tanks of gas.
I
> think that due to smaller size they will be
much stronger than the
bigger
> ones (like an egg).
>
>
Tyson
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 11:43
AM
> To: Tigran Varosyan
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
>
>
> I
applaude your desire to build a well tested system --- however
---
you're
> leaving yourself open to legal action if you recommend the
placement
of
> the tank in the engine compartment. The tanks are NOT
approved for use
> in a motor fuel application --- they are rated by the
manufacturer for
> outdoor use at temperatures not to exceed 120º F and a
pressure of 240
psi.
> I was told the tanks will probably hold twice
that pressure but you'd
like
> at
> least a 100% safety margin.
ASME tanks are rated for use as a
automotive
> fuel tank but are built
to much stronger specs.
>
> BTY --- it may be "rating crap" but if
somebody drags your ass into a
> courtroom
> because a tank blew the
lawyers will have a field day. I don't make
this
> stuff up
> I
just pass it on. Import Power doesn't recommend a tank and says
it's
for
> offroad use only --- a wise decision.
>
> The
area to look [ for California anyway ] is California Code of
>
Regulations,
> Title 13, section 930 --- they have info on the
requirements for
tanks. I
> haven't
> read it but I did take a
quick look.
>
> Jim
Berry
>
=======================================================
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
> To:
"'fastmax'" <
fastmax@cox.net>
>
Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:54 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: propane
injection explained ???
>
>
>
>>Yes the valve does
pop at around 300 (325 on my tank) PSI and engine
bay
>>temps get
much higher than 150... The system I have on my car has
a
line
>>
> to
>
>>re-route vented gas to under
the car chassis preventing any formation
of
>>pockets. I have tried
to light the leaking propane from the valve, no
>>
>
dice.
>
>>It will not go up. I don't know what this rating crap
is about. If the
>>overpressure valve pops off at 300 it makes no sence
that the tank
would
>>hold any less. I had my tank to near 400 PSI
and it held its own... I
also
>>know people (roofers) who use
propane torches to heat up their tanks
when
>>they get cold. I feel
that under the hood you get MUCH better
performance
>>because you
get all the benefits of a bottle warmer without
the
expense.
>>
> It
>
>>is the safest place
for it in my opinion. If I had to be in a car in a
>>propane explosion,
I would not want it to be anywhere in the cabin...
The
>>firewall
and the hood should also protect the people within,
diving
the
>>force of the blast down and forward. The hose leading
up to the intake
is
>>much shorter. My system also uses a special
port made on to the
Y-Pipes
>>
> that
>
>>I
manufacture to inject the stuff. Injecting it into existing ports
in
the
>>plenum is plain stupid in my opinion... etc etc
etc.
>>
>>Unlike just about everyone out there I did not go
"OOOOHHH PROPANE!
New
>>
> cool
>
>>thing! Lets
make it and sell it!" (To use an example the guy at
>>Importpoweronline
who started to take orders and was selling his
system
>>before he
even had a working prototype of a like-model retail
system.
Not
>>
> to
>
>>mention that his valves
he uses and whole system is under-rated for
the
>>application.) I
have been working with the stuff for a long time now,
>>
>
since
>
>>before all the buzz on 3si and I want to have a
functional system that
is
>>better than anything else out there. I
have already achieved the
latter, I
>>just feel that a bit more
testing and some track times are needed
before
>>
>
it
>
>>goes up for
sale.
>>
>>Tyson
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
>>Sent:
Wednesday, August 07, 2002 9:24 AM
>>To: Tigran Varosyan;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: propane injection explained
???
>>
>>
>>Not sure what you're using for propane
storage but a DOT certified
tank is
>>NOT safe in the engine
compartment ---- the temps in the engine bay
can
>>exceed 150º which
results in a tank vapor pressure of up to 300 psi
which
>>exceeds
the tank safety relief valve settings. In addition the
DOT
tanks
>>
> are
>
>>rated at 240 psi and
California State requires a tank rated in excess
of
>>250 psi.
The only commercial tanks that fit those requirements are
the
>>
> ASME
>
>>spec tanks which also includes
the check valve that closes if the
valves
>>
>
are
>
>>damaged. The smallest I've found are 25# tanks and are 9"
in diameter
>>and 20" long. I have no doubt you could get a custom tank
designed but
I'd
>>think the cost would be very
high.
>>
>> Jim
Berry
>>===================================================
>>-----
Original Message -----
>>From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
>>To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>>Sent:
Wednesday, August 07, 2002 12:15 AM
>>Subject: RE: Team3S: propane
injection explained ???
>>
>>
>>
>>>I
have made my own propane setup which I planned to market, but
am
still
>>>testing. I think that my system and the best out
there thus far, but
I
>>>
>
am
>
>>>keeping it under wraps until I am 100% satisfied with
it and till I
can
>>>
>>get
>>
>>>a
copyright to the design. I have been using it for about a
month
with
>>>awesome results. The system currently on my car is
mounted under the
>>>
> hood
>
>>>for many
reasons, safety being one of them. One thing I can say
is
that
>>>
> I
>
>>>did not expect
nearly as much of an improvement form it as I have
had.
I
>>>
>>did
>>
>>>some math and the
propane under boost would make up less than 20% of
the
>>>total
fuel going into the engine. Having as the octane ratings
were
so
>>>close, 92 and 104 I did not expect a big difference,
but reading
some
of
>>>
>>the
>>
>>>knock
sensor outputs before and after I am simply stunned. There
is
no
>>>
>>more
>>
>>>knock,
period! I do not know the science behind it, but it works
and
>>>
>>that's
>>
>>>all there is to
it.
>>>
>>>Tyson
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 21:23:02
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: propane injection explained ???
The small fat bottles are 1/4 of
a Gal. The small skinny long ones are a bit
less than that. Problem is that
they are too expencive I want to have
propane for daily driving and that is
not worth it. Also propane is filled
by volume, you pay by the galon and you
do not need to take it out.
Tyson
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Richard Fennell
Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 6:14 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Fw: Team3S: propane
injection explained ???
I would think the tank should be
removable.
Propane is sold by weight. They weigh the tank when you
bring it in and add
propane until correct full weight is achieved.
I
wonder how those smaller propane bottles would work.
How long do you think
they would last before running out.
Rich
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
To: "John
Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 7:40 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: propane injection
explained ???
> Hey does anyone know if you have a custom tank
made, if they can fill it
> in the car? Thanks
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: John Sheehan
[mailto:Johns@KYSO.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 6:53 PM
>
To: Tigran Varosyan
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
>
> Wow, Watch
out! I use to work at a refilling station while going to
> school. We
refurbed tanks turned in and setup new ones with our logo. I
> saw many,
very many bad or defective with only a few uses! Scary, I
> won't have a
Barbeque with one anymore. The smaller tank sounds better.
> Take a look
at what plumbers use, much better approval rating and very
> strong and I
never saw one of those with a problem. Temp=pressure
> buildup is an
issue. Be careful! Take care, john
>
> Tigran Varosyan
wrote:
>
> > Well, off-road or on if the thing blows and hurts
someone there will
> be
> > bacon to fry. I plan to have a waiver
written up by my lawyer friend
> which
> > will have to be
signed. You can mount the thing anywhere you want, I
> chose
> >
to mount mine under the hood. My system will work in the passenger
> >
compartment or in the trunk just as good as any out there. The company
>
that
> > this will be sold under is also an unprofitable LLC so
personally
> nobody can
> > touch me. They can claim the company
assets which will be consisting
> of
> > tools and equipment
costing less than $2000. I do not plan to have
> anyone
> > hurt
by this project and am 100% sure that if anything will ever
> happen
it
> > will be the fault of the user/installer. I will look into the
tanks
> you were
> > talking about, but from what I have seen so
far, everyone uses
> standard BBQ
> > tanks. I got me some tiny
1Gal tanks which last about 3 tanks of gas.
> I
> > think that
due to smaller size they will be much stronger than the
> bigger
>
> ones (like an egg).
> >
> > Tyson
> >
>
>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002
11:43 AM
> > To: Tigran Varosyan
> > Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
> >
>
>
> > I applaude your desire to build a well tested system ---
however ---
> you're
> > leaving yourself open to legal action if
you recommend the placement
> of
> > the tank in the engine
compartment. The tanks are NOT approved for use
> > in a motor fuel
application --- they are rated by the manufacturer for
> > outdoor use
at temperatures not to exceed 120º F and a pressure of 240
> psi.
>
> I was told the tanks will probably hold twice that pressure but
you'd
> like
> > at
> > least a 100% safety margin. ASME
tanks are rated for use as a
> automotive
> > fuel tank but are
built to much stronger specs.
> >
> > BTY --- it may be
"rating crap" but if somebody drags your ass into a
> >
courtroom
> > because a tank blew the lawyers will have a field day. I
don't make
> this
> > stuff up
> > I just pass it on.
Import Power doesn't recommend a tank and says it's
> for
> >
offroad use only --- a wise decision.
> >
> > The area to look
[ for California anyway ] is California Code of
> >
Regulations,
> > Title 13, section 930 --- they have info on the
requirements for
> tanks. I
> > haven't
> > read it but
I did take a quick look.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
=======================================================
> >
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
> > To:
"'fastmax'" <
fastmax@cox.net>
>
> Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:54 AM
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
propane injection explained ???
> >
> >
> >
>
>>Yes the valve does pop at around 300 (325 on my tank) PSI and
engine
> bay
> >>temps get much higher than 150... The system
I have on my car has a
> line
> >>
> > to
>
>
> >>re-route vented gas to under the car chassis preventing any
formation
> of
> >>pockets. I have tried to light the leaking
propane from the valve, no
> >>
> > dice.
>
>
> >>It will not go up. I don't know what this rating crap is
about. If the
> >>overpressure valve pops off at 300 it makes no
sence that the tank
> would
> >>hold any less. I had my tank
to near 400 PSI and it held its own... I
> also
> >>know
people (roofers) who use propane torches to heat up their tanks
>
when
> >>they get cold. I feel that under the hood you get MUCH
better
> performance
> >>because you get all the benefits of a
bottle warmer without the
> expense.
> >>
> >
It
> >
> >>is the safest place for it in my opinion. If I
had to be in a car in a
> >>propane explosion, I would not want it
to be anywhere in the cabin...
> The
> >>firewall and the hood
should also protect the people within, diving
> the
> >>force
of the blast down and forward. The hose leading up to the intake
>
is
> >>much shorter. My system also uses a special port made on to
the
> Y-Pipes
> >>
> > that
> >
>
>>I manufacture to inject the stuff. Injecting it into existing ports
in
> the
> >>plenum is plain stupid in my opinion... etc etc
etc.
> >>
> >>Unlike just about everyone out there I did
not go "OOOOHHH PROPANE!
> New
> >>
> > cool
>
>
> >>thing! Lets make it and sell it!" (To use an example the
guy at
> >>Importpoweronline who started to take orders and was
selling his
> system
> >>before he even had a working
prototype of a like-model retail system.
> Not
> >>
>
> to
> >
> >>mention that his valves he uses and whole
system is under-rated for
> the
> >>application.) I have been
working with the stuff for a long time now,
> >>
> >
since
> >
> >>before all the buzz on 3si and I want to have
a functional system that
> is
> >>better than anything else
out there. I have already achieved the
> latter, I
> >>just
feel that a bit more testing and some track times are needed
>
before
> >>
> > it
> >
> >>goes up for
sale.
> >>
> >>Tyson
> >>
>
>>
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
>
>>From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> >>Sent: Wednesday,
August 07, 2002 9:24 AM
> >>To: Tigran Varosyan;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>>Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained ???
>
>>
> >>
> >>Not sure what you're using for propane
storage but a DOT certified
> tank is
> >>NOT safe in the
engine compartment ---- the temps in the engine bay
> can
>
>>exceed 150º which results in a tank vapor pressure of up to 300
psi
> which
> >>exceeds the tank safety relief valve settings.
In addition the DOT
> tanks
> >>
> > are
>
>
> >>rated at 240 psi and California State requires a tank
rated in excess
> of
> >>250 psi. The only commercial tanks
that fit those requirements are the
> >>
> > ASME
>
>
> >>spec tanks which also includes the check valve that closes
if the
> valves
> >>
> > are
> >
>
>>damaged. The smallest I've found are 25# tanks and are 9" in
diameter
> >>and 20" long. I have no doubt you could get a custom
tank designed but
> I'd
> >>think the cost would be very
high.
> >>
>
>> Jim Berry
>
>>===================================================
>
>>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Tigran Varosyan"
<
tigran@tigran.com>
>
>>To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>>Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 12:15 AM
> >>Subject: RE:
Team3S: propane injection explained ???
> >>
>
>>
> >>
> >>>I have made my own propane setup
which I planned to market, but am
> still
> >>>testing. I
think that my system and the best out there thus far, but
> I
>
>>>
> > am
> >
> >>>keeping it under
wraps until I am 100% satisfied with it and till I
> can
>
>>>
> >>get
> >>
> >>>a
copyright to the design. I have been using it for about a month
>
with
> >>>awesome results. The system currently on my car is
mounted under the
> >>>
> > hood
> >
>
>>>for many reasons, safety being one of them. One thing I can say
is
> that
> >>>
> > I
> >
>
>>>did not expect nearly as much of an improvement form it as I
have
> had. I
> >>>
> >>did
>
>>
> >>>some math and the propane under boost would make up
less than 20% of
> the
> >>>total fuel going into the
engine. Having as the octane ratings were
> so
> >>>close,
92 and 104 I did not expect a big difference, but reading some
>
of
> >>>
> >>the
> >>
>
>>>knock sensor outputs before and after I am simply stunned. There
is
> no
> >>>
> >>more
> >>
>
>>>knock, period! I do not know the science behind it, but it works
and
> >>>
> >>that's
> >>
>
>>>all there is to it.
> >>>
>
>>>Tyson
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>
>>
> >>
> >>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 23:59:13
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Antisieze on wheel studs
> i'm concerned about one poster's
remarks about huge innacuracies with
> clicker torque wrenches. How
can I get my torque wrenches checked out?
My machine shop checked mine
out on some sort of test tool. There are
calibrators that shops can
buy. Motor shops that rely on accurate torque
should have something
like them around. I didn't watch them do it, but they
did it for me
after I broke one of my rod bolts when reassembling my motor
as a courtesy to
me to help figure out if it was a bad bolt or if my torque
wrench was
off.
http://www.larsonsystems.com/products/twcs_series/stwcs.htmlhttp://www.rstechltd.com/hand_torque_wrench_test.htmHere's
info on a place where you can send your clicker torque wrench and
they'll
calibrate it for you (and a list of reasons why clickers
lose
calibration):
http://www.sts.sae.org/servicetech/july-2001/tech-tidbits-04.pdf-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 02:23:57
-0400
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing Terminal
Hello Everyone,
Can anyone tell me
exactly where the timing terminal that you ground out to
check ignition
timing is? The car is a 92 Stealth R/T TT.
Thanks in
advance,
David Thrower
92 Stealth R/T TT Stock
everything.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 13:22:55
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Timing Terminal
http://www.stealth316.com/2-timingterm.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
To:
"Team3s (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 09, 2002 12:23 AM
Subject: Team3S: Timing
Terminal
Hello Everyone,
Can anyone tell me exactly where
the timing terminal that you ground out to
check ignition timing is? The car
is a 92 Stealth R/T TT.
Thanks in advance,
David Thrower
92
Stealth R/T TT Stock everything.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:17:07
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: propane injection explained ???
I refill at gas stations. I have
never heard of it being by the pound. They
always have a meter like a
gasoline pump. At least around here they do...
Tyson
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Fennell
[mailto:realmstl@charter.net]
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 5:33 AM
To:
Tigran Varosyan
Subject: Re: Team3S: propane injection explained
???
Tyson,
How come they weigh it when I go fill my BBQ
tank?
Is it just the places I go?
It been a while, but I don't
remember any meter on the fill hose.
What kind of place do you refill
at?
Thanks,
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
To: "'Richard
Fennell'" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 08, 2002 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: propane injection
explained ???
> The small fat bottles are 1/4 of a Gal. The small
skinny long ones are a
bit
> less than that. Problem is that they are
too expencive I want to have
> propane for daily driving and that is not
worth it. Also propane is filled
> by volume, you pay by the galon and you
do not need to take it out.
>
> Tyson
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#920
***************************************