Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, August 6
2002 Volume 01 : Number
917
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Aug 2002 01:51:17 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Average Monthly Cost Question
These prices should be pretty close to
Stealth prices -
60k service - $400, done myself with replacing
everything that is
recommended (all belts, NGK Platinum plugs, plug wires,
gaskets, water
pump and the like). NT prices should be lower - the alternator
belt is
$10 less, I'm thinking the SOHC timing belt costs less also (the
DOHC
costs $150), etc. Probably mid 300's for parts (at teams3s
discount
prices). This should be a major consideration in the price of
your
stealth. If it hasn't been done, it's a major bargaining
point.
Obviously done every 60 thousand miles. If you don't do it at
that
interval, you're asking for trouble and a very costly
breakdown.
Oil changes for quality oil (the capacity of a TT car is only
slightly
larger due to the oil cooler and whatever is in the turbos
themselves) -
roughly $25 for 6qts of mobil1 full synth (my vr4 took 4 qts,
so you'll
probably need less) + 5 bucks for the filter and a buck for
the
collapsible gasket on the oil drain plug. You can obviously get
cheaper
oil, but I don't think very many people on this list would recommend
it.
Every 3,000 miles.
Brake pads - < 100 bucks for an axle set
from Geoff Mohler. I believe
about 140 for both. How often you replace them
depends on how you drive.
I drive pretty hard, and have a heavier car and
still have the pads that
came on it (bought the car a year/18k mi ago) w/o
the wear limiter
kicking in
Brake rotors - again, depends on how you
drive. If you're sane, you'll
rarely (if ever) need more than turning the
rotors, which if you take
them off yourself can cost as little as $20 per
axle set (depends on the
shop). New ones depend on what you get. I've seen
prices as low as $50
per rotor.
I believe that's the real major
maintenances that everybody has to do
sooner or later. Do the math.
Everything else is usually unforeseen
issues that result in additional costs.
I really couldn't tell you how
much things cost on the bases. I don't think
the bases have as big of a
problem with the transmissions, but that's
definitely something to watch
out for.
My personal recommendation
would be to buy an older tt or vr4 over a
newer base. I don't know if that's
applicable in your situation, but you
get so much more for your money.
Besides, if weather is an issue, the
AWD will make things that much more
safe. The RT TT/VR4 is a much more
stable (in my opinion) car that the base.
It's heavier, has more "fun"
things (like an automatic climate control system
that I like better than
those people have in their BMWs and Mercedes), the
awd, and of course
the turbos. But that's a different issue all
together.
I'm sure I haven't covered everything, but I'm assuming other
people
will chime in...
Alex
'95 VR4
www.kolosy.com<snip>
In any case, I was wondering if anyone could post up
their
maintenance
cost logs and any other noteworthy expense logs that
they have.
Including
gas/oil changes/engine work and so on and so on.
</snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 10:48:50
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Repainting door chrome trim on RT?
Hey all,
The paint on the
chrome trim at the top of the drivers door on my 92 RT TT
is flaking and
peeling off.
Any tips on how to fix this? Its a textured paint, so
I don't want to just
use a standard spray-bomb.
Also - how to I prep
the chrome to make the paint stick? I don't want to
sand it, as it
looks like it was not sanded from the factory (or maybe its
supposed to be
and that's why my paint is coming off)
Thanks,
Steve C.
92 RT
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 09:33:58
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Intake Pressure Testing Question.
Sunday I checked for leaks and
found a few and after fixing them noticed
I was getting a lot of pressure in
the valve cover. The motor was cold
so would this be normal? The only thing I
could think is my rings could
be bad? The motor was just rebuilt 800 mi ago.
Thanks for any help.
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
BPU
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:48:16
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SpeedToys? How do I get ahold of them?
I purchased a brakeline
kit and have an issue with it that needs to
be resolved. Does anyone know how
to contact Geoff Mohler? He seems
to be out of the country for a month and I
can't wait for this. I
can't believe issues will be unaddressed for a month
till his return.
Does he have a #2 guy to take of things while he is out?
As for the technical question.....is there another source for
line
fittings for these brake kits...I am thinking I am going to be on
a
waiting list for 3-4 weeks till I can get my fitting replaced. I
need
the fitting that gets C-clipped..there are 8 of them in the
kit...1
of mine was bad...the seal cone is not there...made incorrectly
and
will not fit or work. My car is dead till this fitting is
replaced..
any help would be greatly appreciated
bobk.
dead 93
R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 10:58:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Track Overheating Update (continued)
Dear pals,
I have an
new data point to share about overheating on the track with 2nd
generation
VR4's under high boost.
I drove three sessions Saturday at Texas World
Speedway with my boost
controller set to about 9 psi boost. Fourth
session I drove with 14.7 psi
boost. No overheating. Temperature
at the track was in the high 90's.
Sunday, I drove four sessions with the
boost set at 14.7. In the second to
last session, I noticed the oil
pressure stable at a lower than usual
location, but no overheating. In
the last session, I saw a little more
reduction in oil pressure, but no
overheating until the middle of the
session. Exactly as reported by
others and seen by me on a couple of
occasions, the temperature gauge climbed
from it's usual location at about
1/3 of full scale, to about 2/3 of full
scale and sat there, even while
travelling at constant velocity (120-125 mph
in 4th gear) along the front
straight. It returned to the normal place
somewhere around Turn 3, a 90
degree right hander, where the you are at WOT
at the exit, just lower speed
and in third gear.
When I finished the
session and let the car cool (I run a turbo timer), I
checked the oil
level. I was 1 guart low. Added a quart and oil pressure
was back
to the normal place for the 90 mile drive home.
Anyone else noticed oil
pressure and oil level changes in advance of the
mysterious temperature gauge
movment?
Chuck Willis
BTW my lap times weren't any better running
the 14.7 psi boost than the
previous day with the 9 psi boost, which means I
don't know how to properly
use all that ectra horsepower. I DID use it
to drive off the trackout at
Turn 4 on Saturday afternoon (Fourth off-track
in five years and 31 DE's).
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*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 09:04:32
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
SpeedToys? How do I get ahold of them?
Call Porterfield directly ---
they're in Costa Mesa Ca.
Jim
Berry
======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 05, 2002 8:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: SpeedToys? How do I get
ahold of them?
> I purchased a brakeline kit and have an issue
with it that needs to
> be resolved. Does anyone know how to contact Geoff
Mohler? He seems
> to be out of the country for a month and I can't wait
for this. I
> can't believe issues will be unaddressed for a month till
his return.
> Does he have a #2 guy to take of things while he is out?
>
> As for the technical question.....is there another source for
line
> fittings for these brake kits...I am thinking I am going to be on
a
> waiting list for 3-4 weeks till I can get my fitting replaced. I
need
> the fitting that gets C-clipped..there are 8 of them in the
kit...1
> of mine was bad...the seal cone is not there...made incorrectly
and
> will not fit or work. My car is dead till this fitting is
replaced..
> any help would be greatly appreciated
>
>
bobk.
> dead 93 R/T
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 17:15:17
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Track Overheating Update (continued)
I checked the oil level
after my first ever overheating incident at
last weekend's track event (
http://www.team3s.com/RR19.htm) and it
was
normal. Pressure was good, perhaps a little lower than normal
at
idle. I'm really puzzled... it was such an abrupt change
in
temperature despite fairly consistent driving all day.
- -
--
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 05:46:09
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
Consumer Reports keeps
records like this. I am no longer a member, so I
can't tell you their
numbers. You can find it at
www.consumerreports.org You
will have to sign-up to look it up though.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 09:53:27
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SpeedToys? How do I get ahold of them?
I contacted them and
it seems to be rolling but the answer I seem to
get is "talk to Geoff" well
we all know where he is. I am sending
Emails to him now and hope he can get
through the fornt desk. Things
are rolling....thanks for the
help.
bobk.
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
fastmax@cox.netTo:
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: SpeedToys? How do I get ahold of them?
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002
09:04:32 -0700
>Call Porterfield directly --- they're in Costa Mesa
Ca.
>
> Jim
Berry
>======================================
>----- Original
Message -----
>From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Monday, August 05, 2002 8:48 AM
>Subject: Team3S: SpeedToys? How do I get
ahold of them?
>
>
>> I purchased a brakeline kit and have
an issue with it that needs to
>> be resolved. Does anyone know how to
contact Geoff Mohler? He seems
>> to be out of the country for a month
and I can't wait for this. I
>> can't believe issues will be
unaddressed for a month till his
>return.
>> Does he have a #2
guy to take of things while he is out?
>>
>> As for the
technical question.....is there another source for line
>> fittings for
these brake kits...I am thinking I am going to be on a
>> waiting list
for 3-4 weeks till I can get my fitting replaced. I
>need
>> the
fitting that gets C-clipped..there are 8 of them in the kit...1
>> of
mine was bad...the seal cone is not there...made incorrectly and
>>
will not fit or work. My car is dead till this fitting is
>replaced..
>> any help would be greatly appreciated
>>
>> bobk.
>> dead 93 R/T
>>
>>
>>
>> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 17:36:15
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake Pressure Testing Question.
I don't know if this has
been mentioned before, but air can enter the rocker
cover from the PCV hose
connected to the intake hose (don't worry, it is
supposed to do this). Block
this access if it bothers you. A Krank Vent one-
way valve installed in this
hose can prevent air from flowing toward the
rocker cover.
Also, the
PCV valve may leak air into the rocker cover when the manifold is
pressurized (no, it is not supposed to do this). A Krank Vent one-way valve
in
the PCV valve hose is supposed to fix this problem.
Don't forget
at least two intake valves are not closed at all times, so air
can get into
at least two cylinders at any crank position and from there
around the
rings. From what I understand, a large part of ring seal during
operation is
from the pressure of combustion pressing the ring "from behind"
and away
from the piston onto the cylinder wall.
To prevent any air from your
pressure testing from entering the engine you
must seal the PCV hose access
on the intake hose (disconnect hose from rear
rocker cover and plug or
squeeze shut) and install a blocking plate either
between the plenum and
manifold (a hassle) or between the throttle body and
plenum (less of a
hassle).
Intake pressure tester:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htmPCV
info:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-krankvents.htmValve
timing and more:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-timing.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 05, 2002 9:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: Intake Pressure Testing
Question.
Sunday I checked for leaks and found a few and after fixing
them noticed
I was getting a lot of pressure in the valve cover. The motor
was cold
so would this be normal? The only thing I could think is my rings
could
be bad? The motor was just rebuilt 800 mi ago.
Thanks for any
help.
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder BPU
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 10:52:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
It goes something like
this:
$5-6k Buy base model in good shape.
$1k Put really
cool tires on it.
$1k and new rims
$.6k And some gauges
on the pillar
<get spanked by RT/TT>
$40 put ad
on Autotrader to sell the base model
<$6k> sell the base
model
$18k and by a 2nd gen RT/TT
$1k Put really cool
tires on it.
$1k And rims
<get spanked by a highly
modded RT/TT>
$.5k A new BOV
$.4k and
downpipe
$.8k and HKS exhaust
$.15k And
FIPK
And And And......
<now your car
is REALLY HOT!!>
$5k Buy a first gen base model as a
daily
driver.....
Glenn
'93 VR-4 - Stock
Got Spanked by a modded
2nd gen on Sat (Thanks Roger!)
- --- Shaun Cameron <
stealth@blizzarddesign.com>
wrote:
> Hi there,
<cut>
> In any case, I was
wondering if anyone could post
> up their maintenance
> cost logs
and any other noteworthy expense logs that
> they have.
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 11:00:56
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
Or try this
formula...
7k by R/T NA
1k wheels and tires
...see 99 drive
by
4k conversion to 99 front end
.7k battle wing spoiler...gotta be
legit.
..cam gear...springs..SAFC...360's...AL Flywheel...stut bars
...sway
bars....brakes...rotors...intake...exhaust...filter...wires....endless
time
and effort.
get asked by every club member why you didn't get
a
VR4........priceless
you do what you will to any base model....for
everyone else...there's
VR4
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
vr4glenn@yahoo.comTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 10:52:33
-0700 (PDT)
>It goes something like this:
>
>$5-6k Buy
base model in good shape.
>$1k Put really cool tires on
it.
>$1k and new rims
>$.6k And some gauges on the
pillar
>
><get spanked by
RT/TT>
>
>$40 put ad on Autotrader to sell the base
model
><$6k> sell the base model
>$18k and by a 2nd gen
RT/TT
>$1k Put really cool tires on it.
>$1k
And rims
>
><get spanked by a highly modded
RT/TT>
>
>$.5k A new BOV
>$.4k and
downpipe
>$.8k and HKS exhaust
>$.15k And
FIPK
> And And
And......
>
><now your car is REALLY
HOT!!>
>
>$5k Buy a first gen base model as a
daily
>driver.....
>
>Glenn
>'93 VR-4 - Stock
>Got
Spanked by a modded 2nd gen on Sat (Thanks Roger!)
>
>--- Shaun
Cameron <
stealth@blizzarddesign.com>
wrote:
>> Hi there,
><cut>
>> In any
case, I was wondering if anyone could post
>> up their
maintenance
>> cost logs and any other noteworthy expense logs
that
>> they have.
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You
Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live
better
>http://health.yahoo.com
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 14:14:23
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
Actually more so goes like
this:
Buy a 1G VR-4 $6-10k
FIPK $150
AVC-R $400
ATR D/P
$325
blow engine up b/c you beat the stock engine mounts to death drag
racing all
summer long $4K and running :/
Do you all see a trend
here?
While we are on the topic of cost I keep seeing posts at another
forum
online (not touching the mess from over the weekend) referencing the
Kormex
LSD available for the TT any one have a line on cost and difficulty of
the
install?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: glenn
vrfour [SMTP:vr4glenn@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 1:53
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
>
> It goes
something like this:
>
> $5-6k Buy base model in good
shape.
> $1k Put really cool tires on it.
>
$1k and new rims
> $.6k And some gauges on the
pillar
>
> <get spanked by RT/TT>
>
>
$40 put ad on Autotrader to sell the base model
> <$6k>
sell the base model
> $18k and by a 2nd gen RT/TT
>
$1k Put really cool tires on it.
> $1k And
rims
>
> <get spanked by a highly modded RT/TT>
>
> $.5k A new BOV
> $.4k and downpipe
> $.8k
and HKS exhaust
> $.15k And
FIPK
> And And And......
>
> <now your car is REALLY HOT!!>
>
> $5k
Buy a first gen base model as a daily
> driver.....
>
>
Glenn
> '93 VR-4 - Stock
> Got Spanked by a modded 2nd gen on Sat
(Thanks Roger!)
>
> --- Shaun Cameron <
stealth@blizzarddesign.com>
wrote:
> > Hi there,
> <cut>
> > In
any case, I was wondering if anyone could post
> > up their
maintenance
> > cost logs and any other noteworthy expense logs
that
> > they have.
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
>
http://health.yahoo.com>
>
*** Info:
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***
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 20:22:53
+0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Katlysator
Hello
I have a 1991 Stealth ES.
According to CARFAX
the exaust is ok.
Whats the HC, CO2 and so on in USA.
Miami.
Sweden:
30 at 800 rpm.
100 at 2500
rpm.
Hans
_________________________________________________________________
Med
MSN Foto kan du enkelt dela med dig av dina fotografier och beställa
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 13:52:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Ludwig <
yiotta@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
First Post
Hello all, Glad to have joined your team.
My name is Roger
Ludwig Jr. I am a family practice doc
in Silverdale Washington and part time
Flight Surgeon
with an F15 Squadron in Portland Oregon (Oregon
Air
National Guard).
I own a 1995 VR4 (Sorrento Pearl) with the
following
mods that I have done since I bought the car bone
stock last
year:
1) K & N FIPK
2) HKS Exhaust (thanx Erik)
3) Cusco Rear Strut
Bar
4) Ground Control Coilover Suspension Kit
5) Polished intercooler
piping
6) 3SX Spark Plug Cover Plate and dress up kit
7) Slotted
Crossdrilled Rotors - removing soon!!
8) New fuel rail rear line mod from Bob
K.
9)HKS EVC IV
My need, I am preparing to install the EVC IV and
have
found several websites that offer mediocre information
on the install
of this thing.
Does anyone have a link to a helpful spot for this
install.
Erik sent me Stealth 316's which is OK but
basically just has the printed
instructions.
See ya
Roger
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 14:40:47
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Katlysator
Hans
The following information is from California which
normally has the
most strict smog tests in the US. They also check Nox but
for some
reason I didn't include it in the following
email.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark FWIW ----
I dug up my old smog test from 12/27/00.
Precats and cat in
place.
idle ------------- HC(ppm) ---- max allowed 100,
measured 5
2500 rpm ----- HC(ppm) ---- max allowed 130, measured
6
idle ------------ CO(%) ------- max allowed
1.00, measured 0.00
2500 rpm ---- CO(%)
-------- max sllowed 1.00, measured 0.00
Jim
Berry
========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
>
> Hello
>
> I have a 1991 Stealth ES.
> According to
CARFAX the exaust is ok.
> Whats the HC, CO2 and so on in USA.
Miami.
>
> Sweden:
> 30 at 800 rpm.
> 100 at 2500
rpm.
>
>
> Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 18:46:32
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo vs efficiency (crusing)
Hello all -
I love the thought that
goes into topics we toss around here. I read about
things that don't
necessarily pertain to me, yet learn so much. thanks all.
I have
been pondering for some time now, how does turbo affect fuel
efficiency when
crusing? My thoughts are that the extra air supplied during
even small
fluctuations of the throttle results in very poor gas mileage.
What if the
turbos were turned off? Then the throttle would have to be
tilted open
more to get the needed air, thereby decreasing the vacuum drag
of the engine,
which should equal higher efficiency. On the other hand,
isn't turbo a
very efficient way to supply air? In other words, isn't the
'forced'
air greatly reducing the vacuum drag naturally?
Ken Stanton
-
---Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK,
HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
Improved
Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
6 speed
conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license
plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
98/99 COOLANT TANK (6/26/02)
Best
(pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned
alky)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 19:19:32
EDT
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Turbo vs efficiency (crusing)
If you look at your boost gauge
(preferrably the one on the AVCR - as its
more accurate), you will notice
that any time you are at a mid-throttle
cruise, your engine manifold is
under vacuume. You do not get positive
pressure until you begin to
accelerate, that is to say that the effect of the
turbo holding back the
engine (really "turbo-lag") does not actually occur
until you are attemting
acceleration (youll notice that you dont hear the
clicking from the AVC-R
solenoid until you start to get on the throttle).
Therefore, since you
want the turbo to kick in on acceleration, there is
really no need to "turn
off" the turbocharger. The only time that the turbo
could possibly
hinder the type of performance you want is under engine
breaking, which is
why the adjustable blow-off valve (or air bypass valve as
its sometimes
called) is used. Its sort of like a variable vacuum leak.
Joe
93
RT/TT
'02 WRX
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 19:27:26
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo vs efficiency (crusing)
There are two main differences
between a typical turbo engine and a NA
engine that affect fuel efficiency,
one good, one bad. First the bad, low
compression ratio makes for a
less efficient engine and results in worse
economy. On the other hand,
the turbo does aid in air supply and thus
reduces the pumping losses (even
though it adds some restriction to the
exhaust, but negligible at cruising
speeds). Overall, economy from a turbo
engine is usually superior to an
NA engine that is capable of similar
performance.
If ultimate fuel
economy was the goal, we'd Ideally want a small
displacement, variable
compression ratio, turbo engine running on a CVT.
The CVT would keep the
engine at its most efficient engine speed regardless
of vehicle speed and the
compression ratio would be set as high as the
gasoline would allow without
knocking and change as cruising loads changed.
Spark and fuel would also be
optimized during these operating points to
obtain max brake specific fuel
consumption (bsfc).
Joe G.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 05, 2002 6:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo vs efficiency
(crusing)
> Hello all -
>
> I love the thought that
goes into topics we toss around here. I read
about
> things that
don't necessarily pertain to me, yet learn so much.
thanks
all.
>
> I have been pondering for some time now, how does
turbo affect fuel
> efficiency when crusing? My thoughts are that
the extra air supplied
during
> even small fluctuations of the throttle
results in very poor gas mileage.
> What if the turbos were turned
off? Then the throttle would have to be
> tilted open more to get
the needed air, thereby decreasing the vacuum drag
> of the engine, which
should equal higher efficiency. On the other hand,
> isn't turbo a
very efficient way to supply air? In other words, isn't the
>
'forced' air greatly reducing the vacuum drag naturally?
>
> Ken
Stanton
>
> ---Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White Stealth
RT/TT
> 3Si Rochester (NY)
> FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
> AVC-R
(1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
> Improved Precats
> HKS
SSBOV
> Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
> 6 speed conversion,
RPS Stage II
> Aiwa MP3 Stereo
> 007KEN spark plug plate, license
plates
> ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
> 98/99 COOLANT TANK
(6/26/02)
> Best (pathetic) time:
> 13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly
tuned alky)
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 16:44:28
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tapping Manifold for EGT Probe w/o Removing Manifold
For those
who've suggested/contemplated tapping their exhaust manifolds
without
removing the turbo or manifold, look here.
http://pjs.iwarp.com/mr2modproject/mod/4EGTMod/4egtmod.htmHe
drilled 4 holes really close to the block, so I'm wondering if that's how
the
shavings got in the head... Does air get sucked INTO the engine
through
the exhaust valves on the first couple strokes since there's no
combustion?
IIRC, there is some intake/exhaust valve overlap, but is it
possible to suck
stuff from the exhaust manifold into the engine?
I assume this wouldn't really be an issue if the engine were idling,
but
there'd still be the dangers of having metal shavings hitting the
turbine
blades.
Comments about this guy's experience?
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 00:34:03
+0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject:
[none]
Hello
I just read this on
www.dodge.com homepage.
""Where To
Get Parts For Your Dodge Stealth
Parts for your Dodge Stealth may still
be available through your local Dodge
dealer. As DaimlerChrysler not longer
manufacturers the Dodge Stealth, parts
are maintained based on
demand.
If the part is not available through your local Dodge dealer,
your might try
searching the internet to locate a Dodge Stealth car club.
Often these clubs
will have parts available. You also might check salvage
yards that are in
your area, to see if they may have the vehicle/part that
you are looking
for.
Locating parts can be a tedious and drawn-out
process. Best of luck in
trying to obtain the part(s) you are looking
for.
Document ID: SSIDB131426""
Can anyone help me to find a
center cap (?) to my Stealth.
Who sell my type wheel? 16". Tires
225-65.
My homepage have pictures.
http://www.geocities.com/hortin2001/Erik.html(I
have worked whit this site for 5 houers.)
I like my OPEL OMEGA 2,5 V6 125 kW
Chips very much.
A family
car.
Hans
_________________________________________________________________
Med
MSN Foto kan du enkelt dela med dig av dina fotografier och beställa
kopior:
http://photos.msn.se***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 00:34:03
+0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject:
[none]
Hello
I just read this on
www.dodge.com homepage.
""Where To
Get Parts For Your Dodge Stealth
Parts for your Dodge Stealth may still
be available through your local Dodge
dealer. As DaimlerChrysler not longer
manufacturers the Dodge Stealth, parts
are maintained based on
demand.
If the part is not available through your local Dodge dealer,
your might try
searching the internet to locate a Dodge Stealth car club.
Often these clubs
will have parts available. You also might check salvage
yards that are in
your area, to see if they may have the vehicle/part that
you are looking
for.
Locating parts can be a tedious and drawn-out
process. Best of luck in
trying to obtain the part(s) you are looking
for.
Document ID: SSIDB131426""
Can anyone help me to find a
center cap (?) to my Stealth.
Who sell my type wheel? 16". Tires
225-65.
My homepage have pictures.
http://www.geocities.com/hortin2001/Erik.html(I
have worked whit this site for 5 houers.)
I like my OPEL OMEGA 2,5 V6 125 kW
Chips very much.
A family
car.
Hans
_________________________________________________________________
Med
MSN Foto kan du enkelt dela med dig av dina fotografier och beställa
kopior:
http://photos.msn.se***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:01:34
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Turbo vs efficiency (crusing)
Ken - I tested this in real-world
trips to two "local" tracks.
Driving in 5th and 6th gears on the
Interstates consisting of many long
(1 mile or longer) hills the turbos were
engaged (AutoMeter gauge)
anywhere from 0 psi - 7 psi (or max in 6th gear on
steep hills but here
I would shift to 5th).
Driving in 6th gear until
a gentle grade of 5-10 degrees when I would
shift to 5th until a grade of 10+
degrees when I would shift to 4th all
the way through West Virginia (where
hills were much steeper and longer
than those in the previous lesson through
PA) generated almost no boost
or at most 1-3 psi.
Fuel economy on the
hilly trip through WV was a staggering 450 miles per
tank. The similar
trip through PA was about 380 miles before the Mrs.
nudged me to get gas
which I did at the 400-mile mark. I kept the two
fuel receipts where I
put in 20.110 gallons and 20.200 gallons since I
didn't think that was
possible on stock tanks. My goal is to get 500
miles but I'll need to
hit somewhere flat in 6th gear and I don't feel
like driving through Ohio for
300 miles then turning around. Both runs
above were made using the A/C
by the way. I don't feel that has much
bearing at all on total
miles. Nor does opening the windows or sunroof.
- --Flash!
Gone
are the days of 36+ mpg in the VTEC Accord on a 14 gallon tank
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002
18:47
I have been pondering for some time now, how does turbo affect
fuel
efficiency when crusing? My thoughts are that the extra air
supplied
during even small fluctuations of the throttle results in very poor
gas
mileage. What if the turbos were turned off? Then the throttle
would
have to be tilted open more to get the needed air, thereby
decreasing
the vacuum drag of the engine, which should equal higher
efficiency. On
the other hand, isn't turbo a very efficient way to
supply air? In
other words, isn't the 'forced' air greatly reducing the
vacuum drag
naturally?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:47:32
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
Guys with VR-4-
yes they are
fast and amazing-how the 3/S was meant to be
But Shaun said he wants it
affordable. .
And at $15,000 and up for a decent used one. . . twin
turbo AWD AWS with a
troublesome six speed and only decent gas milage on
premium only may not be
the car for everyone-major funds are needed to keep
it goin-and of course you
GOTTA make it faster. . .whats the point
then?
So do remember that the DOHC N/A has its own merrits- id rather be
drivin in
that then uhhh. . a crustang or somthin
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 23:38:07
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
>So do remember that the
DOHC N/A has its own merrits-
I beg your pardon. This Merritt does not
have a DOHC N/A.
I do admit, however, that the car has its
merits.
Rich/slow old poop
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 22:51:12
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Katlysator
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
>
Hans
> The following information is from California which normally has the
most
strict smog tests in the US. They also check Nox but for some reason I
didn't
include it in the following email.
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Mark FWIW ---- I dug up
my old smog test from 12/27/00.
> Precats and cat in place.
> idle
------------- HC(ppm) ---- max allowed 100, measured 5
> 2500 rpm
----- HC(ppm) ---- max allowed 130, measured 6
> idle
------------ CO(%) ------- max allowed 1.00, measured
0.00
> 2500 rpm ---- CO(%) -------- max
sllowed 1.00, measured
0.00
> Jim Berry
-
------------------------------------------------->
Hans,
I
couldn't find any figures for Florida, as you asked, but I can share
my
latest numbers. I took a chance with my recent emissions test, and
brought
the car in COLD, without giving it time to warm up the cats
(Katlysators).
You *should* run the car on the highway at over 100kph (60mph)
for 15 minutes
before emissions testing (for better results)...
Based
on Jim Berry's numbers above, it apears that the geniuses in Washington
(or
Sacramento) have substantially relaxed the (2500 rpm) emissions standards
on
hydrocarbons & Carbon Monoxide since December, 2000!?! My numbers
from
late July, '02, (including Oxygen) for a stock exhaust, '94 Stealth NT
are:
Idle RPM ----- HC(ppm) --- max allowed
100, measured 1
2500 RPM ----- HC(ppm) --- max allowed 220,
measured 3
Idle RPM ----- CO( % ) ----- max allowed
1.00, measured 0
2500 RPM ----- CO( % ) ----- max allowed 1.20,
measured 0
Idle RPM ----- O²( % ) ----- **Out of
Calibration**, measured 1.1
2500 RPM ----- O²( % ) ----- **Out of
Calibration**, measured 0.9
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#917
***************************************