Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, August 4
2002 Volume 01 : Number
916
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 3 Aug 2002 19:17:08 -0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: ABS
> -Cody
> **disabled ABS mod - TMO
datalogger constantly plugged in...
I have a Tunerstein Laptop
Datalogger. One day, I was making a datalog when
I hit the brakes hard
to stop for a light. My brake pedal modulated just
like the ABS was
working and there was no wheel lockup. Is this supposed to
happen or is
it just a difference between the data loggers?
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 20:15:13
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: ABS
Rich Fowler just told me that if you plug the TMO in after
starting the car
that the ABS will be enabled --- I have not tried
it.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 03, 2002 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
ABS
> > -Cody
> > **disabled ABS mod - TMO datalogger
constantly plugged in...
>
> I have a Tunerstein Laptop
Datalogger. One day, I was making a datalog when
> I hit the brakes
hard to stop for a light. My brake pedal modulated just
> like the
ABS was working and there was no wheel lockup. Is this supposed to
>
happen or is it just a difference between the data loggers?
>
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 00:11:22
-0400
From: "Chris McFarland" <
cm1994@qx.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:
ABS
I know with the Pocket Logger, it DOES disable the ABS. I can
still clearly
remember the night last year when a deer ran out in front of
me. All 4
wheels locked and I ran right into him. :(
Chris
McFarland
93 Stealth R/T TT
>I have a Tunerstein Laptop
Datalogger. One day, I was making a datalog
when
>I hit the
brakes hard to stop for a light. My brake pedal modulated just
>like
the ABS was working and there was no wheel lockup. Is this
supposed
to
>happen or is it just a difference between the data
loggers?
>Doug
>92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 21:57:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: JuQuEl <
juquel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch Problem
I just started having a major problem w/ my clutch.
There is absolutely no resistance when I step on it.
Could it be a
clutch fluid problem? Any ideas,
suggestions, etc. would be
appreciated...
Thanks!!
LouAnn
'93 VR-4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 00:17:28
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: ABS
Is your ABS light constantly on??? With the TMO,
mine is...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Saturday,
August 03, 2002 9:17 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: ABS
> -Cody
> **disabled ABS mod - TMO
datalogger constantly plugged in...
I have a Tunerstein Laptop
Datalogger. One day, I was making a datalog
when
I hit the brakes
hard to stop for a light. My brake pedal modulated
just
like the ABS
was working and there was no wheel lockup. Is this
supposed
to
happen or is it just a difference between the data
loggers?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 22:36:49
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: ABS
> Is your ABS light constantly on??? With
the TMO, mine is...
It is constantly on. I believe that Jim Berry
may have the answer. I think
I have been plugging in the laptop after I
start the engine. I remember to
check this, next time I log some
data.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 01:01:54
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: ABS
Seems like this trick oughta go into the ABS FAQ
page, along with the photo and story about Greg Gonzales' brake booster
hose.
Shoot, these tricks might save fellow listers thousands of dollars
on unecessary ABS repairs.
Imagine how many dealers have replaced ABS
pumps and control boxes, when all they really had to do was replace an $18
vacuum hose or take the fusible link in and out. What's more, I bet the dealers
know all about these cheap fixes.
Is this a great list or
what?
Rich/slow old poop
At 08:54 PM 8/3/02 -0500, cody
wrote:
>Let me be the third to tell you the same... One night on my '93,
it
>stuck on, and I, like you, totally screwed up the fuse.... Well,
once I
>got it back together, it has worked fine since...
>-Cody
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 08:13:49
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Problem
What exactly to you mean by "no resistance"?
None whatsoever? None until
the end of travel? The pedal is
laying on the floorboard?
Does it still disengage so you can shift
gears?
Dennis
93 Stealth ES (with recent experience in dead
clutches...)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "JuQuEl" <
juquel@yahoo.com>
To: "Team 3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 03, 2002 11:57 PM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch
Problem
I just started having a major problem w/ my clutch.
There
is absolutely no resistance when I step on it.
Could it be a clutch fluid
problem? Any ideas,
suggestions, etc. would be
appreciated...
Thanks!!
LouAnn
'93
VR-4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 10:20:11
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch Problem
Remember that you do not necessarily NEED the
clutch to disengage in
order to shift gears but it makes things much nicer
inside all those
gears and synchronizers. Just ask the truck drivers
how to rev match
for shifting. If your clutch is not working properly
then try this
trick to get out of first so you can drive down the road at
normal speed
and RPM and then go back down the gears to drive slowly through
a
Mechanic's parking lot.
It is easier in any gear except first but
I'll start there anyway.
Starting up in first gear accelerate easily and
slowly until your RPMs
are around 3,000 - 4,000 and then gently but firmly
ease some pressure
onto the gearshift to pull it out of first gear and into
neutral. Don't
keep accelerating and drop revs if you want to (down to
as low as 2,000
RPMs). Once it is neutral you are halfway to the
goal.
Try and remember what RPMs second gear is at your current speed (if
you
are at 60 mph then you need to be up around 6,000 RPMs so try it at
a
MUCH lower speed first). If you are around 10-20 mph then this is
good.
Gently rev up a little to 2,000 RPM and try to ease the shifter
back
into second gear or perhaps try for third (which might require the
revs
to drop some more). Once in to second then you can drive most
places up
to around 60 mph so this might be good enough.
You can also
turn off the car in gear and start it in gear although this
is all hard on
the tranny bits so be as kind as possible to your car.
And try this on your
friend's 1983 Vega first if you can. But there are
ways around
it.
This assumes that the clutch is engaged. If it is disengaged
and is not
allowing any transmitting of power then you need to work like
Fred
Flintstone. Hope this helps some of you.
By the way,
downshifting is just the opposite. Instead of revving up to
3,000 RPM
in first and letting it drop DOWN to 2,000 RPM before trying
second or to
1,000 RPM before trying third you start in third at 1,000
RPM and rev UP to
2,000 - 3,000 RPM and go for second. It works if you
need it
to.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dennis and
Anita Moore
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 09:14
What exactly to you
mean by "no resistance"? None whatsoever? None
until the end of
travel? The pedal is laying on the floorboard?
Does it still
disengage so you can shift gears?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 10:59:55
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: HKS intercoolers and hard pipes upgrade
Hey Darren, and any
one else that cares...... Try turbonetics.com they
have all sorts
of silicone couplers, like the 3 inch to 2 3/4 inch coupler
that I am using
to connect my DN perfornmance Ypipe to the throttle body.
http://64.225.76.178/catalog/silicone.html<
http://64.225.76.178/catalog/silicone.html>
try about halfway down the page, the smallest they come in is 2"
to 2.25"
Hope this helps Darren
Russ F
CT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Sat 8/3/2002 11:28 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st Cc:
Subject: RE: Team3S: HKS intercoolers and hard pipes
upgrade
Thanks, Matt. That eases tension a little.
But I must have a different
setup than you. As you can see in the
webpage of pictures - the HKS
pipes are white and not black. And
thanks for the tip about Dynamic
Racing ones first but this set cost me
nothing except the trouble of
piecing it all together. I didn't have
to remove them, ship them, or
anything.
I am VERY happy to have
these and only be out my time and effort. I
think street value is
$1,200-$1,800 on these babies (or they were when
new). Some of the
pipes even have heat wrap on them to keep as much
heat away from the pipes
as possible.
And I put the rear pipe on (the one that comes up from the
rear turbo,
across the rear manifold, and to the right of the plenum) and
the ID of
these HKS pipes is nearly equal to the OD of the stock
pipes. So now
you see the problem. The stock OD is about 1-5/8"
from the blurry
picture and the HKS ID is at least 1-3/4" so I am trying to
see how to
connect them since this HKS pipe just slides over the rear turbo
outlet
like it isn't even there.
I just realized the problem.
The donor car had larger than stock
turbos. I don't know if there is
more than one HKS kit and I don't know
where to look if anywhere for numbers
on this set. Would there be any
harm to connect with a silicone
coupler from a slightly smaller outlet
to a slightly larger inlet?
Shouldn't be. I just need to find a
silicone coupler that is pliable
enough to mate to both the turbo exit
and the hard pipe inlet. I
haven't see too many couplers like that as
they are always the same diameter
on each end.
- --Flash!
-
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 07:57:30
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: ABS
I was told that if you plug in the TMO 'after' you start the car
you won't
affect the ABS. In my case if I plug it in with the car off and
then start
the car the ABS light is on and the system is disabled. As I said
before
I haven't tried the other way and don't currently have my datalogger
available.
Jim
Berry
=========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 03, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
ABS
>
> > Is your ABS light constantly on??? With
the TMO, mine is...
>
> It is constantly on. I believe that
Jim Berry may have the answer. I think
> I have been plugging in the
laptop after I start the engine. I remember to
> check this, next
time I log some data.
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 16:35:55
+0000
From:
l.enriquez@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
NEED HELP!!!!
I need help in finding a mechanic in the Chicago land
area that is familiar with working on stealths/3000gts.
I flat
bedded my stealth r/t tt to a auto shop where its
been there for a good
month and they cannot get nething
done to it, everytime i pass by the shop
its sitting in
the same exact spot for a good month, i'm getting
severly
impatient with them, and i'm willing to flatbed
it out of there and into
another quality, trustworthy
mechanic that is familiar with vr-4 and r/t
TT. NE
recomendations???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 16:33:03
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NEED HELP!!!!
At 04:35 PM 8/4/02 +0000, you wrote:
>I
need help in finding a mechanic in the Chicago land
>area that is
familiar with working on stealths/3000gts.
>I flat bedded my
stealth r/t tt to a auto shop where its
>been there for a good month and
they cannot get nething
>done to it, everytime i pass by the shop its
sitting in
>the same exact spot for a good month, i'm getting
>severly impatient with them, and i'm willing to flatbed
>it out
of there and into another quality, trustworthy
>mechanic that is familiar
with vr-4 and r/t TT. NE
>recomendations???
How about Fast
& Furious in Cedar Rapids? He works on my car, and has an 11 sec 3000GT
(NOS) of his own, plus several Talons. I've seen other 3000GTs/Stealths in the
shop from time to time.
For me, he's installed a boost controller, BOV,
and Supra fuel pump, and tuned it for 13.14 @ 104.69. (It'd probably runs 12s if
I knew how to drag race properly.) I plan to have him put in bigger turbos,
injectors, AFC, etc. this winter. He seems to know what he's doing with our
cars, and he's reasonable.
He also knows a local farmer kid with an F250
diesel dually and a trailer who will probably come get your car for a reasonable
amount of money (he picked up my dead Talon for $20 and took it to the F&F
shop). I can't even guess what they'd charge you for a trip to Chicago, but it
would probably be a whole lot less than anybody else would charge.
Call
Trent Durham at 319/981-6931 to check, or email him at
fastfuriousco@msn.comRich/slow
old poop/94 VR4
,
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 21:08:32
-0700
From: Shaun Cameron <
stealth@blizzarddesign.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Average Monthly Cost Question
Hi there,
I joined this
list awhile ago with the intention in mind that I wanted to
buy myself a
91/92 Base or ES Stealth by next fall. I've loved this car for
years but
never realistically believed that I could afford it. I've been
spending this
summer doing deep research into prices and trying to figure
out if my budget
could handle it. I have a pretty good idea on how much I
would be spending on
the car itself and my next mission was to figure out
how much this car (on
average) costs per month/year in maintenance. I've
been driving around in a
95 Ford that has cost my thousand in repairs, and
is expected to have further
problems with Head Gaskets and transmission
problems in the near future. So
I'm gearing up to sell it and to buy a car I
would truly enjoy (which is
where the Stealth comes in). I'm in the
Portland, OR area and I've learned
tons about self-repair through this list
and I thought that if I were to ever
buy a car it would be this one mainly
because this list is here and it
provides great support when it comes to
do-it-yourself auto
work.
In any case, I was wondering if anyone could post up their
maintenance
cost logs and any other noteworthy expense logs that they have.
Including
gas/oil changes/engine work and so on and so on. Especially from
anyone that
owns a 91/92 Base or ES Stealth that doesn't race it. This would
truly be
appreciated and could be the deciding factor on if I buy this car or
not. On
another note, I don't really plan on racing this car, and I plan on
using it
mainly just as my one and only car for year-around traveling. I've
seen a
good number of pictures of crippled Stealths from accidents, so I
also
question on if this car would really be safe for the Oregon climate.
With
good tires and normal driving speeds, would I really need to worry too
much
about losing control as much as I would with any other
car?
Thanks for the tips you guys! I really don't know anywhere else I
would turn
for an answer, so I appreciate any help you can give. :)
-
-Shaun Cameron
Hoping to be a Dodge Stealth owner!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#916
***************************************