Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 31
2002 Volume 01 : Number
912
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Jul 2002 07:19:25 -0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FW: best oil and filter change?
I've gone the other route as
well, changing filter every 3,000 miles and
topping off with fresh oil to
fill, doing a full oil and filter change at
around 10,000 miles.
Of
course using your synthetic oil of choice...
- --
Paul/.
95
black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
on 7/29/02 11:04 PM, fastmax at
fastmax@cox.net scribbled:
> That's
kind of an old wives tail --- the story is, the filter will pick
up
> some
> junk from the engine and be partially plugged and
therefore be able to
> filter out finer and finer particles. The filter is
designed to filter a
> certain
> minimum size particle and if the
oil and the filter are changed regularly it
> will do the job required.
The same story has been applied to air filters.
>
> Another line of
thought is that if you change the oil every 3000 miles
> you can get buy
with changing the filter every other change. You
> could probably do that
with little or no ill affects but all you save is the
> cost of a filter
which is kind of minimal. As long as you're doing the job
> you might as
well do the whole thing.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 07:27:59
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Revisiting - Replacement speakers for Infinity Sound
System
Hi
Matt: I did a little research. According to crutchfield.com the
3000gt
uses 6 3/4 inch speakers up front. They have no replacements they
recommend.
Going to etronics.com I found the following speakers that look
like they
would fit. They all look like very good speakers. The pioneers look
like the
best deals. Maybe you should call these people. They have a lot of
different
speakers on their website and they are half the price of
crutchfield.
Andy
| Infinity Kappa 652.5I 6 3/4" 2-Way
Speakers (PAIR)
Pioneer TS-A1667 6 1/2" / 6 3/4" 3-way Speakers
(PAIR)
Pioneer TS-A1767 6 3/4" 3-way Speakers (PAIR)
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Matt Costanza" <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 29, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: Revisiting - Replacement
speakers for Infinity Sound System
| Ok. I seem to be running around
in circles in my attempt to get
replacement
| speakers for my 97 3000GT
SL. I have the Infinity sound system. My left
| front speaker is blown. I am
now also getting some rattling from my right
| rear speaker. I'm looking to
replace both door and rear speakers. I have
| gone throgh the messages as
well as the FAQ at the 3si.org site but I
can't
| seem to get an exact
answer. My visit to a local Custom Sounds seems to
have
| added to the
confusion.
|
| From what I have learned, the Infinity system has a
distinctive cross-over
| system to all of the speakers in the car. This
complicates matters when
you
| just want to replace the speakers. While
aftermarket speakers may "fit"
into
| the car, they most likely will not
sound very good or no be driven at the
| required power levels when compared
to the stock speakers. This makes is
| very dificult to just replace the
stock speakers with aftermarket
speakers.
|
| I went to a local Custom
Sounds to inquire about the Infinity Kappa series
| speakers. I learned of
these speakers from another member here on the list
| (Mike with a 97 SL as
well). Custom Sounds has explained to me that the
| Infinity Kappa series
speakers may work but they will either not sound
that
| good due to the
way the stock speakers are powered from the amp or not be
| powered correctly
due to the unique crossover rating from the stock
| speakers.
|
| I
explained to the folks at Custom Sounds that I'm not really
interested
in
| replacing my whole system. Just the speakers. So, anyone
here have any
info
| on replacement speakers that will 1) fit in the front
door and rear
panels,
| 2) Work correctly with the existing Infinity Sound
system.
|
| I'm not really interested in replacing the speakers with the
same stock
| speakers. They are made of paper and are *very* prone to being
blown. I
| don't want to go through the exercise again in a few months or
so.
|
| Thanks in advance for any info..
|
| Regards,
| --
|
Matt Costanza
| Austin, Tx USA
|
|
| *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 07:58:02
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FW: best oil and filter change?
Hey Bob, isn't there a spring
loaded bypass valve inside the oil filter (or
inside the block I forget)in
case the filter gets too clogged?
Pete Rivenburg
ISD
First American
Title
Phoenix, AZ
(602) 685-7523
Privenburg@firstam.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 08:04:31
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FW: best oil and filter change?
My point was that the filter is designed
to work properly when first
installed.
As it plugs up with debris it does
indeed reduce the size of the particle
trapped but it also reduces flow.
There is no improvement in the operation
of a filter by letting it get
clogged up. If the filter is indeed improved,
then
let's just start
selling dirty filters
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <
Team3S@Team3S.com>
Cc: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>; "BlackLight"
<
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Sent:
Monday, July 29, 2002 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: FW: best oil and filter
change?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
> > That's
kind of an old wives tail --- the story is, the filter will
pick
up
> some junk from the engine and be partially plugged and
therefore be able to
> filter out finer and finer particles. The filter is
designed to filter a
> certain minimum size particle and if the oil and
the filter are changed
> regularly it will do the job required. The same
story has been applied to
air
> filters.
> > Another line of
thought is that if you change the oil every 3000 miles you
> can get by
with changing the filter every other change. You could probably
do
>
that with little or no ill effects but all you save is the cost of a
filter
> which is kind of minimal. As long as you're doing the job you
might as well
do
> the whole thing.
>
> Jim berry
>
---------------------------->
>
> 'fraid not. That's *not*
an 'old wive's tale'..., it's sound science. It's
> published on
everything from the K&N FIPK install manual to the Fram site.
As
>
particles 'clog' up the filter (ANY filter - water - oil - air),
those
larger
> particles themselves filter smaller particles.
Pure logic, Captain Kirk...
> As per the FIPK manual, "the filter actually
works *better* the dirtier it
> gets". Says the same on my home
Ultrapure water filter system, too. You
can
> change the filter
'as long as you're at it', OR you can leave it in for a
> second oil
change cycle and filter the smaller particle that *will* get
> through a
new filter. Change it every *other* cycle, if you believe the
>
manufacturers. (And this old NASA engineer)... ;-)
>
>
Best,
> Forrest
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 10:27:01
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS running and running and running and...
I had to pull the
fusible link to get my ABS pump to stop running.
(I didn't know the link was
bolted down, so I removed it with a pair of pliers
and broke the sucker plumb
in half).
So why is my pump running continuously, even with the engine
off?
It happened at the track when the car overheated, but the pump
ran
continuously for another 12 hours until I got home and pulled the
link.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 08:38:45
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ABS running and running and running and...
There is a relay on the ABS
unit that hangs up --- it's a bit of a pain to get
at, you need to remove the
plastic shields in the wheel well. The part is
probably cheap as is the
fusable link --- the 10 A fuse should stop the pump
also [ I think ----
hmmmm, maybe not with the relay hung up
].
Jim
Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 30, 2002 8:27 AM
Subject: Team3S: ABS running and running and
running and...
> I had to pull the fusible link to get my ABS pump
to stop running.
> (I didn't know the link was bolted down, so I removed
it with a pair of
pliers and broke the sucker plumb in half).
>
>
So why is my pump running continuously, even with the engine
off?
>
> It happened at the track when the car overheated, but the
pump ran
continuously for another 12 hours until I got home and pulled
the
link.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 15:53:35
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ABS running and running and running and...
>> So why is
my pump running continuously, even with the engine off?
Interesting
question. If I am reading the circuit diagram correctly, the
fusible link
(#7) that you pulled (broke) supplies power directly (without
switching) to
two relays inside the hydraulic unit (HU). These two relays are
switched
on/off by the ABS Control Unit (ACU). Apparently, the ACU energized
one or
both relays in the HU and they stayed that way even though power to the
ACU
was turned off when the ignition key was turned off.
Now I do not know
enough about the electronics to understand why this would
occur. Can the
switching transistors (for the two relays) inside the ACU
stay "switched to
ground" after the power is removed? Relays are usually
extremely dependable
devices. What are the chances that one or both failed
somehow in the HU?
Perhaps there is another cause of the problem?
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 30, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: Team3S: ABS running and running and
running and...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 10:42:33
-0400
From: "chris weil" <
cweil@si.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: tires
and ABS!
Hey Guys,
I joined the team about 2 weeks ago and have
been reading the emails and the
different sites and learning a lot the whole
time. But, I have some
questions:
1) I need to purchase All-Season
tires(18's). Living in one of the 5
boroughs of NYC I need a tire that
can handle the rigors of city driving as
well as the occasional jaunt on a NJ
highway!! Any suggestions??
2) I recently noticed that my ABS light stays lit
constantly. I brought it
to the Mitsu dealer and was told that I need the ABS
brain and the ABS unit
itself, but the cost will be 3k(parts and
labor)!!! Is it possible for a
person with below average-average
mechanical skills to do the job? Does it
need to be computerized? And
where might I be able to get a shop manual?(I
called the number on the site
listed and they said they don't offer the 3000
manual)
If I can't do it,
does anyone know of a reputable mechanic/garage in the
NYC/NJ area where I
can get it done? And where can I get the parts at a
decent price?
Let
me know if you have any suggestions!
Chris
97
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:26:13
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Revisiting - Replacement speakers for Infinity
Sound
System
Matt-
Just last week i installed 6x9 3 way kappas
in my car. they negate the need
for a sub unless u want very loud
sound.
Now your sound shop doesnt know what they are doing. I have
infinity kappas
all the way around the car. Now they would of course sound
better with an
aftermarket amp. . but i didnt want big loud boomy sound, just
clear and
crisp with the volume on max. . which is loud enough. . plus they
wont ever
blow out again.
Ok so 6/12s bolt right in. . simply take
the door panal off and plug em in.
Jeff Lucius's site has step by step
instructions.
The 6x9s had me a little confused at first. . .they are
3-way and come with a
little crossover to split the signal to the big cone
and 2 tweeters, but
there is only one input from the amp, so i put grommetts
on each copper wire
lead, then hooked them up to the speakers, and wrapped
them in electrical
tape just to be sure they dont come undone.
the
Dash speakers are 3 1/2. . the closest thing that any aftermarket
company
makes in 3 3/4 inches. So i drilled out the dash a bit with a dremel,
sanded
down the edges, and then put new covers over them.
You must be
careful with sound shops, which will always try to sell u stuff
u dont
need. I have the exact set up they say will not work, and ill tell you
its
great. I am not a sound engineer, but to my ears it sounds great, like
the
stock system only much clearer.
- -mike
97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 09:44:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Shop
Manuals [was] Team3S: tires and ABS!
I purchased the 2 manuals from
Rockville Mitsu
(mitsupartsdirect.com). Took them a week to get
them
in, $125 for the set. Call them and ask for the team
3s
discount.
Glenn
93 vr4
- --- chris weil <
cweil@si.rr.com> wrote:
> Hey
Guys,
>
> I joined the team about 2 weeks ago and have been
>
reading the emails and the
> different sites and learning a lot the whole
time.
> But, I have some
> questions:
>
> 1) I need to
purchase All-Season tires(18's). Living
> in one of the 5
> boroughs
of NYC I need a tire that can handle the
> rigors of city driving
as
> well as the occasional jaunt on a NJ highway!! Any
>
suggestions??
> 2) I recently noticed that my ABS light stays lit
>
constantly. I brought it
> to the Mitsu dealer and was told that I need
the ABS
> brain and the ABS unit
> itself, but the cost will be
3k(parts and labor)!!!
> Is it possible for a
> person with
below average-average mechanical skills
> to do the job? Does it
>
need to be computerized? And where might I be able
> to get a shop
manual?(I
> called the number on the site listed and they said
>
they don't offer the 3000
> manual)
> If I can't do it, does anyone
know of a reputable
> mechanic/garage in the
> NYC/NJ area where I
can get it done? And where can I
> get the parts at a
> decent
price?
>
> Let me know if you have any suggestions!
>
>
Chris
> 97 VR4
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 09:51:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wow..fused rotor
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=114cc1c4f66bdcab5b3434d15ddce70d&postid=780585#post780585
***
Got
Brakes? Need better brakes?
Send Email to:
orders@speedtoys.com with any inquiries.
(only this addr)
Reseller oppourtunities
available.
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 11:54:27
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Wow..fused rotor
and everybody wonders why I use
antiseize compound on the hubs and rotors
...
Chuck (unstuck)
Willis
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The information in
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If you are not the
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of the intended recipient,
you are hereby notified that any review,
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notify the sender by return
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*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 10:26:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Les Gemar <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
1991 VR-4
Quick question for you 3000GT VR-4 buffs. I have a
1991
VR-4, black with
> 58,000 miles on it. I am going to sell it. What is
a
fair asking
price?
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 10:26:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: Les Gemar <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
1991 VR-4
Quick question for you 3000GT VR-4 buffs. I have a
1991
VR-4, black with
> 58,000 miles on it. I am going to sell it. What is
a
fair asking
price?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 11:56:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1991 VR-4
Price is dependant on several factors, one of which
is
location. VR-4s in the Pacific NW cost more than the
mid-west,
for example. Which is why my dealer trucked
mine from Ohio.
Best
advice is to look at autotrader.com and find the
going rate in your part of
the woods.
Glenn (from Seattle)
'93 VR-4 (from Ohio)
- --- Les
Gemar <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Quick question for you 3000GT VR-4 buffs. I have a
> 1991
VR-4, black with
> > 58,000 miles on it. I am going to sell it. What
is
> a
> fair asking price?
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
>
http://health.yahoo.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com***
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 08:18:03
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FW: best oil and filter change?
I agree with Jim. What
kind of small particles are you concerned with since
you just dumped the old
oil and replaced it with new?
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July
30, 2002 12:05 AM
To: BlackLight; 'Team 3s'
Subject: Re: Team3S: FW: best
oil and filter change?
That's kind of an old wives tail --- the
story is, the filter will pick up
some
junk from the engine and be
partially plugged and therefore be able to
filter out finer and finer
particles. The filter is designed to filter a
certain
minimum size
particle and if the oil and the filter are changed regularly it
will do
the job required. The same story has been applied to air filters.
Another
line of thought is that if you change the oil every 3000 miles
you can get
buy with changing the filter every other change. You
could probably do that
with little or no ill affects but all you save is the
cost of a filter which
is kind of minimal. As long as you're doing the job
you might as well do the
whole thing.
Jim
berry
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The information in
this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are not the
intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended recipient,
you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying of this
e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please immediately
notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from your computer
system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:14:50
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: hoot owl...
Another theory that's been floated is that a
little of the K&N oil gets
sucked into the BPV, and that's what causes
the hooting. It'll go away with
any aftermarket BOV/BPV.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Alan C. Sheffield
[mailto:a92rttt@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 8:29 AM
>
To: Alex Pedenko;
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: hoot owl...
>
>
> The filter does not cause the bpv to
leak. It just allos you
> to hear it.
>
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
> Subject: Team3S:
hoot owl...
>
>
>
> > Now I get
> > the
infamous "hoot-owl" right around 3,500 rpm. My question
> is why
does
> the
> > filter prompt this? I had a blitz sbc-id installed
and I
> would think the
> > higher pressure would cause the BPV
to leak, not just the
> filter. Is there
> > an explantion for
this?
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:39:54
-0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: hoot owl...
I can debunk that one. Mine hooted with the
Blitz SUS filter (stainless
filter no oil). Replacing the BPV with the
Blitz BOV solved it. :)
James Mutton (vrrrr4)
95 3000GT VR4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 12:15
PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: hoot owl...
Another theory that's been floated is that a
little of the K&N oil gets
sucked into the BPV, and that's what causes
the hooting. It'll go away
with any aftermarket
BOV/BPV.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 13:33:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Danny Edwards <
ftr3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: auto to 5 speed
- --0-1058419591-1028061200=:658
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hey everyone i've been looking for a
3000gt for a while and i found one with
everything i want in cali, only
downside is its auto and i was hoping to get a
5 speed... Has anybody
done an automatic to 5 speed swap? Roughly how much
will this cost me? PLease
respond
Danny
-
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel
better, live better
- --0-1058419591-1028061200=:658
Content-Type:
text/html; charset=us-ascii
<P>Hey everyone i've been looking for a
3000gt for a while and i found one
with everything i want in cali, only
downside is its auto and i was hoping to
get a 5 speed... Has
anybody done an automatic to 5 speed swap? Roughly
how much will
this cost me? PLease
respond</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Danny</P><p><br><hr
size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="
http://health.yahoo.com/">Yahoo!
Health</a> - Feel better, live
better
-
--0-1058419591-1028061200=:658--
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***
put up a web page with
photos and all the particulars, including
Pat's email so you can contact her
directly. She is also listing the
VR4 on autotrader.com, so if you are
interested in buying it, contact her
ASAP.
http://solidearth.com/users/mfowler/-
---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 16:35:03
EDT
From:
Peacezoneboy@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: What's shakin'?
hi,
i just joined your club
few days back and i was thrilled to get so much
info about 3000GT via the
mailing list. its' been very fruitful to me. i
just thought that i
might get one of my questions answered with your help. i
have '97 3000GT (SL)
and my mitsubishi/infinity stereo system requires me to
put some 4
digit code before i can use it to play cd's or turn on the radio
and
obviously i don't have the code. what should i be doing?
anjani K
shiwakoti
san francisco, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 13:57:48
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stereo Codes (was: What's shakin'?)
Anjani...
Welcome
to the Team3S list. There's a serial number on top of the
stereo. Any
dealership can pull the stereo and get the four digit code
from
Mitsubishi.
BTW...it's helpful if you write a subject line that describes
the
content of your message. It makes it easier when other's are
searching
the archives with the same question.
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Peacezoneboy@aol.com
[mailto:Peacezoneboy@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 1:35 PM
To:
mike21b@ptd.net;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: What's shakin'?
hi,
i just joined your
club few days back and i was thrilled to get so
much
info about 3000GT via
the mailing list. its' been very fruitful to me.
i
just thought that i
might get one of my questions answered with your
help. i
have '97 3000GT
(SL) and my mitsubishi/infinity stereo system requires
me to
put
some 4 digit code before i can use it to play cd's or turn on
the
radio
and obviously i don't have the code. what should i be
doing?
anjani K shiwakoti
san francisco, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 16:58:24
-0400 (EDT)
From: "
desronar@excite.com" <
desronar@excite.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheels Upgrade
Hi guys,
I got a Stealth 93 R/T twin turbo
with 16" wheels.
Since there is not so much good wheel vendor in Canada, I
have been shopping
on the Internet to get something delivered to my
door....
I have been looking for new wheels 17" or 18" - But very hard to
find through
the internet for that type of car mainly because of the front
caliper size.
Some website vendor are offering some selection base on the car
I got, but I
wonder if they have really try them on a Stealth
before.
Any Wheel suggestions are really welcome
!!!
Thanks
Daniel Desrochers
-
------------------------------------------------
Join Excite! -
http://www.excite.comThe most personalized
portal on the Web!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 21:22:52
+0000
From: "Andrei Kryjevski" <
abk_4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
oil viscosity vs temperature question
Hello:
10W30 means cold
viscosity is 10 (in some units) at some fixed low
temperature and 30 (in some
units) at some fixed high temperature (say a
typical engine operating
temperature). Right?
I am wondering why I am seeing a drop in oil
pressure at idle (light is on)
after the engine has been warmed up (stock
temperature gauge just below the
middle) compared to the cold engine.
Shouldn't viscosity attain it's maximum
value? Could anybody explain this to
me?
Thank you.
Andrei
Kryjevski.
_________________________________________________________________
Join
the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 14:21:58
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels Upgrade
> Hi guys,
> I got a Stealth 93 R/T twin
turbo with 16" wheels.
> Since there is not so much good wheel vendor in
Canada, I have been shopping
on the Internet to get something delivered to my
door....
> I have been looking for new wheels 17" or 18" - But very hard
to find
through the internet for that type of car mainly because of the front
caliper
size.
> Some website vendor are offering some selection base on
the car I got, but I
wonder if they have really try them on a Stealth
before.
> Any Wheel suggestions are really welcome !!!
>
Thanks
> Daniel Desrochers
-
----------------------------->
Both Ann Koch and I have the 18" SRS
GT-1's, available on Tire Rack
www.tirerack.com. Tire rack will ask
for your car and model and list a number
of other wheels as
possibilities... Ann has Big Red Porsche brakes on her car
(which are
larger than the stock calipers) and they fit just fine. You can
see a
photos of them here:
on Ann's car:
www.team3s.com/SPIR102701/AnnKoch.htmon
my car:
www.Team3S.com/Images/18inchSRS-GT1.jpgGood
luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 14:32:17
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ABS running and running and running and...
Try the TIM at Jeff Lucius's
site
[
http://www.stealth316.com/images/stim/tim_05-10.gif
]
Caps had a couple of relays for the ABS the price on one of them
was
$154 what the *&##@&^ are these guys thinking.
I
looked at my warranty repair and they show a $188 relay [ mb618039 ]
which
Rockville sells for $154 [ BFD ] and a labor charge of about
$150.
Jim
Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 30, 2002 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS running and running
and running and...
> Can you be more specific about the relay?
Where is it, what does it look
like?[
> Rich
>
> At 08:38
AM 7/30/02 -0700, you wrote:
> >There is a relay on the ABS unit that
hangs up --- it's a bit of a pain to
get
> >at, you need to remove
the plastic shields in the wheel well. The part is
> >probably cheap as
is the fusable link --- the 10 A fuse should stop the
pump
> >also [
I think ---- hmmmm, maybe not with the relay hung up ].
> >
>
> Jim Berry
>
>==========================================
> >----- Original
Message -----
> >From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
>To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 8:27 AM
> >Subject: Team3S: ABS
running and running and running and...
> >
> >
>
>> I had to pull the fusible link to get my ABS pump to stop
running.
> >> (I didn't know the link was bolted down, so I removed
it with a pair of
pliers and broke the sucker plumb in half).
>
>>
> >> So why is my pump running continuously, even with the
engine off?
> >>
> >> It happened at the track when the
car overheated, but the pump ran
continuously for another 12 hours until I
got home and
pulled
> >the link.
> >>
> >>
Rich/slow old poop
> >>
> >> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> >
> >
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 14:35:19
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ABS running and running and running and...
I think the issue is pitted
contacts that cause the contacts to weld
themselves
together at some point
in there operation. I would guess if you cut the power
and tapped on the
relay in might release.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 30, 2002 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS running and running
and running and...
> >> So why is my pump running
continuously, even with the engine off?
>
> Interesting question. If
I am reading the circuit diagram correctly, the
> fusible link (#7) that
you pulled (broke) supplies power directly (without
> switching) to two
relays inside the hydraulic unit (HU). These two relays
are
> switched
on/off by the ABS Control Unit (ACU). Apparently, the ACU energized
> one
or both relays in the HU and they stayed that way even though power
to
the
> ACU was turned off when the ignition key was turned
off.
>
> Now I do not know enough about the electronics to
understand why this would
> occur. Can the switching transistors (for the
two relays) inside the ACU
> stay "switched to ground" after the power is
removed? Relays are usually
> extremely dependable devices. What are the
chances that one or both failed
> somehow in the HU? Perhaps there is
another cause of the problem?
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 9:27 AM
> Subject: Team3S: ABS running and
running and running and...
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 15:09:41
-0700
From: "Mosher, David" <
dmosher@ea.com>
Subject: Team3S: Any
advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt on mods that
deliver more
pony's
Hey Guys,
I am a Nebee to the list but I must say the info
read over the past few days
has been very useful; Thanks.
I have a 92
pearl white VR4 183k that I am restoring. I have just finish the
paint
work and I was looking for some advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt
on
mods that deliver more pony's? My long term goal is to keep the
car
primarily stock or at least limit my mods so that I can easily return to
stock
parts.
Thank you for your time.
David.
PS. I
live in SFO CA and I am in search of a reputable
parts/accessories
shop.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 15:12:50
-0700
From: "Mosher, David" <
dmosher@ea.com>
Subject: Team3S: Any
advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt on mods that
deliver more
pony's
Hey Guys,
I am a Nebee to the list but I must say the info
read over the past few days
has been very useful; Thanks.
I have a 92
pearl white VR4 183k that I am restoring. I have just finish the
paint
work and I was looking for some advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt
on
mods that deliver more pony's? My long term goal is to keep the
car
primarily stock or at least limit my mods so that I can easily return to
stock
parts.
Thank you for your time.
David.
PS. I
live in SFO CA and I am in search of a reputable
parts/accessories
shop.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 16:01:02
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FW: best oil and filter change?
Matt...
Perhaps the
key is "supposed to". There have been threads in the past
about better
filtering with a dirty filter. This doesn't make sense to
me, taken to the
extreme it would mean a clogged filter is the most
effective. I think the
better filters are designed to remove any
particulate matter that's large
enough to cause damage. I also
understand some brands have a bypass valve so
that, when pressure builds
up too much (from clogging), the oil can still
circulate through the
engine. Then you (in effect) have no filtering
whatsoever.
Another key is the brand of the filter. There was a study
done some
years ago, cutting away the casing, comparing the internal
components,
square inches of filtering material, and filtering material type.
I
believe the owners of this study were forced to remove it from
their
website because it showed that some of the more "famous"
(meaning
"heavily advertised") and expensive filters were made with lower
quality
materials. So, I think the brand of filter you use will make
a
considerable difference as well.
I change my filter and oil every
2500 miles or six months, whichever
comes first.
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: BlackLight
[mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 8:49 PM
To:
'Team 3s'
Subject: Team3S: FW: best oil and filter change?
I am
forwarding this thread to Team3S to get some better input. Is this
true,
you're not supposed to change your oil filter every time cause it
doesn't
catch the fine grit till it gets clogged up some??? Doesn't
sound very good
to me!
Thanks for your input!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Skiles
[mailto:joatsaint@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 8:42 PM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject: Re:
best oil and filter change?
I read the same thing in the oil filter
article that is referred to on
this
list. I change my filter every other
time now.
>From: "Justin Johnson" <
proskater151@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net>To:
stealth@stls.verio.net>Subject:
best oil and filter change?
>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 03:37:58
+0000
>
>
>Hey guys sorry but I'm kind of new at this. I
change my oil and filter
>every
>2500 to 3000 miles. But I hear that
you should change your filter with
>every
>other oil change because
it doesn't start catching the fine grit until
it
>starts to clog up a
bit. What do you think?
>
>Justin
Johnson
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Chat
with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.com>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN
Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 16:11:57
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FW: best oil and filter change?
Here's the link to the study. it's
got lots of info concerning material
used, amount of material, and some
exellent comments on them. Enjoy.
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html
Damon
Chris
Winkley wrote:
> Matt...
>
> Perhaps the key is "supposed
to". There have been threads in the past
> about better filtering with a
dirty filter. This doesn't make sense to
> me, taken to the extreme it
would mean a clogged filter is the most
> effective. I think the better
filters are designed to remove any
> particulate matter that's large
enough to cause damage. I also
> understand some brands have a bypass
valve so that, when pressure builds
> up too much (from clogging), the oil
can still circulate through the
> engine. Then you (in effect) have no
filtering whatsoever.
>
> Another key is the brand of the filter.
There was a study done some
> years ago, cutting away the casing,
comparing the internal components,
> square inches of filtering material,
and filtering material type. I
> believe the owners of this study were
forced to remove it from their
> website because it showed that some of
the more "famous" (meaning
> "heavily advertised") and expensive filters
were made with lower quality
> materials. So, I think the brand of filter
you use will make a
> considerable difference as well.
>
> I
change my filter and oil every 2500 miles or six months, whichever
> comes
first.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: BlackLight [mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
>
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 8:49 PM
> To: 'Team 3s'
> Subject:
Team3S: FW: best oil and filter change?
>
> I am forwarding this
thread to Team3S to get some better input. Is this
> true, you're not
supposed to change your oil filter every time cause it
> doesn't catch the
fine grit till it gets clogged up some??? Doesn't
> sound very good to
me!
>
> Thanks for your input!
>
> Matt Nelson
>
1994 RT TT
>
BlackLight@Planetice.Net>
www.BlackLight.5u.com>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Skiles
[mailto:joatsaint@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 8:42
PM
> To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> Subject:
Re: best oil and filter change?
>
>
> I read the same thing in
the oil filter article that is referred to on
> this
> list. I
change my filter every other time now.
>
>
>
>>From:
"Justin Johnson" <
proskater151@hotmail.com>
>>Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net>>To:
stealth@stls.verio.net>>Subject:
best oil and filter change?
>>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 03:37:58
+0000
>>
>>
>>Hey guys sorry but I'm kind of new at
this. I change my oil and filter
>>every
>>2500 to 3000 miles.
But I hear that you should change your filter
with
>>every
>>other oil change because it doesn't start
catching the fine grit until
>>
> it
>
>>starts to
clog up a bit. What do you think?
>>
>>Justin
Johnson
>>
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>Chat
with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.com>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> MSN
Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 19:20:46
-0400
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ABS running and running and running and...
I had the exact same thing
happen in my RT/TT - twice over the last couple
years.
I also tore the
"fuse" in half the first time, not realizing it was bolted
in. Each time, the
ABS went pump stopped as soon as I plugged it back in.
Hasn't happened in
the past year or so.
Mike
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 30, 2002 11:27 AM
Subject: Team3S: ABS running and running and
running and...
> I had to pull the fusible link to get my ABS pump
to stop running.
> (I didn't know the link was bolted down, so I removed
it with a pair of
pliers and broke the sucker plumb in half).
>
>
So why is my pump running continuously, even with the engine
off?
>
> It happened at the track when the car overheated, but the
pump ran
continuously for another 12 hours until I got home and pulled the
link.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 16:16:57
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ABS running and running and running and...
Jeff --- methinks the relays
were moved to the outside of the pump
assembly at some point. Caps shows a
unit without the relays that
are external to later models [ my best
guess ]
Jim
Berry
=======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 30, 2002 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS running and running
and running and...
> >> So why is my pump running
continuously, even with the engine off?
>
> Interesting question. If
I am reading the circuit diagram correctly, the
> fusible link (#7) that
you pulled (broke) supplies power directly (without
> switching) to two
relays inside the hydraulic unit (HU). These two relays
are
> switched
on/off by the ABS Control Unit (ACU). Apparently, the ACU energized
> one
or both relays in the HU and they stayed that way even though power
to
the
> ACU was turned off when the ignition key was turned
off.
>
> Now I do not know enough about the electronics to
understand why this would
> occur. Can the switching transistors (for the
two relays) inside the ACU
> stay "switched to ground" after the power is
removed? Relays are usually
> extremely dependable devices. What are the
chances that one or both failed
> somehow in the HU? Perhaps there is
another cause of the problem?
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 9:27 AM
> Subject: Team3S: ABS running and
running and running and...
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 18:26:20
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Idle Speed Control Servo SOLVED
> According to my repair
manual, the Idle Speed Control Servo is supposed to
> turn on with the
ignition ON. Mine doesn't turn on or do anything at all.
> I have
checked the harness with a DMM and everything there checks out.
I
am
> getting power to it.
>
> Is it supposed to turn on
like the manual says or does it only turn on
when
> the engine is
running?
>
> I just want to be sure before I replace it.
I
bought a ISC from M & S for $150. The one from M & S apparently
did the
same thing. That is nothing when the ignition key was turned
on. So I
plugged in the ISC close to the dash so I could see it when I
turned on the
key. Still nothing with my ISC and the M & S
one. So I disconnected the
ISC with the key still ON and reconnected it
and bingo. The Motor actuated
for about half a second. Both mine
and the M & S one did it. I guess I'm
going to have to return the M
& S one and pay the restock fee since mine was
good all along. I
sure do wish the repair manual was more clear on how the
ISC is supposed to
work. There is no way to hear it actuate with the
ignition buzzer going
off for that first second and you can't hear it any
time after
that.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 23:24:59
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tires and ABS!
Chris,
Now then, make sure that your brake
fluid reservoir is filled before
replacing the ABS. I think one of the
indications is a lit ABS lamp or
maybe there is a bubble in there and it
thinks it is empty. Get all
the wheels off and bleed the brakes
with the car started. Someone said
this might not work so after
bleeding take the car for a spin and be
sure to induce ABS. Then come
back and bleed the brakes again. This
should have pushed anything
through the ABS unit and bleeding might get
more stuff out of the
system.
I would just do some checks to make sure the ABS "sensor" is
plugged in
and not all corroded on all corners, etc. Simple little
things to see
if that will fix it first.
I don't think it is a DIY for
the ABS. I put dad's Audi 5000 S Quattro
into a guardrail and did
hardly any damage at all except for the ABS and
car computer. Fix-up
cost more than the used car since, at that time, a
used ABS or computer brain
was not allowed to be installed and had to be
a new unit. Not sure if
that is why yours is so high. The same topic
went through here a few
weeks ago as well.
- --Flash!
'95 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: chris weil
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 10:43
2)
I recently noticed that my ABS light stays lit constantly. I brought
it to
the Mitsu dealer and was told that I need the ABS brain and the
ABS
unit
itself, but the cost will be 3k(parts and labor)!!! Is it
possible for
a
person with below average-average mechanical skills to do
the job? Does
it need to be computerized? And where might I be able to
get a shop
manual?(I called the number on the site listed and they said they
don't
offer the 3000
manual)
If I can't do it, does anyone know of a
reputable mechanic/garage in the
NYC/NJ area where I can get it done? And
where can I get the parts at a
decent price?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 23:24:40
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tires and ABS!
Chris,
Welcome to the list. As far as
tires, just venture over to TireRack
(
www.tirerack.com) and see what they have for
specials. Your driving
need dictates what tires you should buy. I
liked the "self survey" on
Pirelli's site (
www.pirelli.com) where you rate how
important
hydroplaning or dry traction or sound is important to you and it
gives
choices for tires. I have both summer and winter tires so I am
not a
great source for an all-season choice. A friend of mine in NYC
has bent
three of the 18" rims from hitting potholes so you might want to
think
about a spare set (there was a set of 17" ones for a darn good price
on
here a little bit ago if you are interested). Low sidewalls don't
like
big potholes.
A quick search on Pirelli for All-season yielded
the "P-7000 Super
Sport" (all medium priority on attributes in their survey)
but Tire Rack
has only the 235/40/ZR18 or the 255/35/ZR18 and not the stock
size of
245/40. It is only $151 though which is a good price and should
last at
least 30,000 miles. I had Pirelli P-Zero that got 30,000 miles
and were
a treadwear of 140 and these P-7000 are a 320. Others are good
too but
your style of driving will dictate what fits best.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: chris
weil
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 10:43
1) I need to purchase
All-Season tires(18's). Living in one of the 5
boroughs of NYC I need a
tire that can handle the rigors of city
driving as well as the occasional
jaunt on a NJ highway!! Any
suggestions??
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 23:47:51
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: oil viscosity vs temperature question
Andrei,
And don't
try to deduce too much with the stock gauges as they are not
very accurate
considering they don't even have numbers. I installed an
AutoMeter
water temp gauge and it runs between 185-195 F when cruising
(I think the
thermostat is 195 F so it should never run hotter than this
when
cruising). All the while the stock gauge sat in the middle.
At the
track the temp gauge climbed to 205 F and 210 F and the stock
gauge barely
moved a half of a line or maybe one full tick about half.
Then the temp hit
235 F and the stock gauge was finally about two ticks
up. Then the temp
gauge was at 245-250 F and the stock gauge was about
two ticks from
red. My stock gauge maxes at 250 F since that is plenty
hot (turbo cars
don't need to be more than 235 F since they run hot
anyway but water-cooled
turbos help to raise the temp on our cars).
Bottom line - stock gauge is
not real helpful. I would hate to see what
the red area on the stock
gauge is since many of us hit that area when
on the track. I don't want
to upgrade to a 300 F water temp gauge but
would rather get the car to run
cooler.
Also, switching to a different synthetic oil made my pressure
drop a
little as this oil was easier flowing. Feel free to try
different oils
or different weights. The manual gives what weight to
use depending on
what temperature the car experiences.
-
--Flash!
'95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrei
Kryjevski
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 17:23
10W30 means cold
viscosity is 10 (in some units) at some fixed low
temperature and 30 (in some
units) at some fixed high temperature (say a
typical engine operating
temperature). Right?
I am wondering why I am seeing a drop in oil
pressure at idle (light is
on)
after the engine has been warmed up (stock
temperature gauge just below
the
middle) compared to the cold engine.
Shouldn't viscosity attain it's
maximum
value? Could anybody explain this
to me?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 01:10:46
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels Upgrade
Your probably going to need a 3 piece
wheel as our brake calipers are
huge as you mentioned. Tire Rack is an
excellent ON-line retailer and have
a pretty nice web-site, but the last time
I checked their selection was
pretty poor.. If they have what you want
then go for it.. They have very
good prices and are easy to deal
with..
I have 17" O.Z. wheels that I love, but I have also
seen some very nice
Racing Heart and others.. Knowing that youll
probably need a 3-piece wheel
be prepared to pay..
It can get pretty
pricey.. There are quite a few options out there.. I dont
know about
Canada, but it seems one of the wheel and tire shops there should
have the
ability to order directly.. Just check with a few shop owners,
maybe
they have catalogs on hand..
Good Luck,
Scott
94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:25:29
-0700
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fore sale - fuel rail mods for better flow
here is the link and
as usual it is one line
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=7518377fe26ce4e6bbd83314812643db&threadid=93161
all
one line.
the pics are there, you'll find em' I will have a more
professional look on
my site this weekend for any and all questions....sorry
for the mess
bobk.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 07:47:17
EDT
From:
GaMoparRacing@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Auto AWD idea
Hey, I remember some people on the list wanting AWD
but with automatic trans,
has any one looked in to using an AWD minivan trans
in a 3/S, just an idea.
Eric
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:28:24
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Auto AWD idea
Not a bad idea, except for the fact that most
minivans aren't making 350+
crank HP...... Although maybe have Level
Ten do their thing to the tranny
and see what it can take before giving up
the ghost.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
GaMoparRacing@aol.com
[SMTP:GaMoparRacing@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 7:47
AM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com>
Subject: Team3S: Auto AWD idea
>
> Hey, I remember some people on
the list wanting AWD but with automatic
> trans,
> has any one
looked in to using an AWD minivan trans in a 3/S, just an
>
idea.
>
> Eric
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
-
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:10:36
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
New ECU Options? was: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
A couple
people have suggested that I go ahead and replace the ECU anyway
since the
dealer had said it was having problems.
They quoted me $1,000.
Sounded nuts to me, and I was already into them for
$2,500, so I bailed on
the option.
What should I expect to pay for this and should I get an
aftermarket one?
Thanks,
Steve C.
92 RT/TT
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'SWC'" <
swc@centurytel.net>;
"Stealth ML" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 30, 2002 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and
won't start
> strange as it may seem, low voltage from the battery
can cause these
things.
> Put a new battery in and see if the car
doesn't have a new lease on life.
> If that doesn't work, remember,you
have to drive it around for a while for
> the ECU to relearn the fuel
map,then consider a new ECU.
>
>
Chuck
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:07:56
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: New ECU Options? was: help - 92TT stranded and
won't
start
Get a stock one from M&S Recycling and if you are
squeamish, let the dealer
install it.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: SWC [mailto:swc@centurytel.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July
31, 2002 8:11 AM
To: Willis, Charles E.; Stealth ML
Subject: New ECU
Options? was: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
A couple people
have suggested that I go ahead and replace the ECU anyway
since the dealer
had said it was having problems.
They quoted me $1,000. Sounded
nuts to me, and I was already into them for
$2,500, so I bailed on the
option.
What should I expect to pay for this and should I get an
aftermarket one?
Thanks,
Steve C.
92 RT/TT
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'SWC'" <
swc@centurytel.net>;
"Stealth ML" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 30, 2002 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and
won't start
> strange as it may seem, low voltage from the battery
can cause these
things.
> Put a new battery in and see if the car
doesn't have a new lease on life.
> If that doesn't work, remember,you
have to drive it around for a while for
> the ECU to relearn the fuel
map,then consider a new ECU.
>
>
Chuck
>
++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
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information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are
not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
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your computer system. Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:27:13
-0400 (EDT)
From: "
desronar@excite.com" <
desronar@excite.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels Upgrade
Thanks for the suggestion Scott.
Like you
and Bob Forest said, Tire Rack probably got a "safe" choice but with
limited
option.
Before going to tire rack options I wanted to see what other
manufacturer had
to offer, I went on "TSW" and "motegi racing" wheels where
they got an
application guide that bring few interesting options of nice 17"
and 18"
wheels - This is giving a lot more options if they work
!!
Thanks
Dan.
''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
---
On Wed 07/31, anscray wrote:
From: anscray [mailto:
anscray@attbi.com]
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stDate:
Wed, 31 Jul 2002 01:10:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheels
Upgrade
> Your probably going to need a 3 piece
wheel as our brake calipers are
> huge as you mentioned. Tire Rack
is an excellent ON-line retailer and
> have
> a pretty nice
web-site, but the last time I checked their selection was
> pretty
poor.. If they have what you want then go for it.. They have
>
very
> good prices and are easy to deal
with..
>
> I have 17" O.Z. wheels that I love, but
I have also seen some very
> nice
> Racing Heart and others..
Knowing that youll probably need a 3-piece
> wheel
> be prepared to
pay..
> It can get pretty pricey.. There are quite a few options out
there.. I
> dont
> know about Canada, but it seems one of the wheel
and tire shops there
> should
> have the ability to order
directly.. Just check with a few shop owners,
> maybe they have
catalogs on hand..
>
> Good Luck,
> Scott
> 94
VR4
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ------------------------------------------------
Join
Excite! -
http://www.excite.comThe most
personalized portal on the Web!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 07:07:06
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New ECU Options? was: help - 92TT stranded and
won't
start
> A couple people have suggested that I go ahead and
replace the ECU anyway
> since the dealer had said it was having
problems.
>
> They quoted me $1,000. Sounded nuts to me, and I
was already into them
for
> $2,500, so I bailed on the
option.
>
> What should I expect to pay for this and should I get an
aftermarket one?
M&S has ECU's for $450.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#912
***************************************
