Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, July 30
2002 Volume 01 : Number
911
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Jul 2002 08:29:41 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Quickie Oil Change
Many of the quickie oil change places use
recycled oil. You are likely not
to get synthetic oil that is more
durable. If you are changing oil at the
quickie shop real often and
only driving on the street, you are keeping
pretty clean oil in the
system. You should be concerned about what filter
they are installing -
the stock filter from Mitsubishi is rather unusual.
If you are normal sized,
you certainly can't get under our cars - that's why
they invented jacks and
jackstands as well as Rhino ramps. If you use the
ramps, you will need
wooden "pre-ramps" becasue the ramps are generally too
steep.
Chuck
Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Danno
[mailto:palermod@pilot.msu.edu]
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2002 12:24 PM
To:
Starnet; 3S
Subject: Team3S: Quickie Oil Change
Folks,
Any
wisdom regarding the use of the quickie oil change joints out there
as to
quality of oil and especially their filters?? For $20 it's just
not
worth my time, the mess and the fact that I can't get under our very
low
slung cars to begin with!
- - Dan
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 13:58:58
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
> Just a small question : what is the
lifetime of these
> sensors ? WB sensors often go south after a
few
> hours contignous usage.
It would have to be a pretty decent
lifetime since they
are the only sensors that the lean-burn Hondas use for
O2 feedback. I can't imagine Honda making their owners
replace
sensors every couple hours. Having said that, I
have no idea if they
last 10,000 miles or 100,000 miles.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:17:15
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
The problem will be that our cars need to
run rich what unfortunately kills
the wide band O2 sensors quicker than lean
burners :-(
We'll see ...
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "Roger
Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Cc: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, July
29, 2002 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
> > Just
a small question : what is the lifetime of these
> > sensors ? WB
sensors often go south after a few
> > hours contignous
usage.
>
> It would have to be a pretty decent lifetime since
they
> are the only sensors that the lean-burn Hondas use for
> O2
feedback. I can't imagine Honda making their owners
> replace
sensors every couple hours. Having said that, I
> have no idea if
they last 10,000 miles or 100,000 miles.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 10:54:09
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sacramento 3000GT Owner
I just want to post this note for a 1st
gen burgandy 3000GT owner with a
stock duel exhaust that lives in the
Sacramento Area. I saw you driving on
I-80 towards Reno at about 8:45
am and your right rear shock is blown. Your
right rear wheel was
bouncing more than a toddler on a sugar high.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 08:54:16
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Quickie Oil Change
BTW - I forgot to mention that the
crushable metal seal on the oil drain
plug is non-reusable - wonder if the
quickie oil change places have a good
supply of these?
Chuck
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 8:30
AM
To: 'Danno'; Starnet; 3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Quickie Oil
Change
Many of the quickie oil change places use recycled oil. You
are likely not
to get synthetic oil that is more durable. If you are
changing oil at the
quickie shop real often and only driving on the street,
you are keeping
pretty clean oil in the system. You should be concerned
about what filter
they are installing - the stock filter from Mitsubishi is
rather unusual.
If you are normal sized, you certainly can't get under our
cars - that's why
they invented jacks and jackstands as well as Rhino
ramps. If you use the
ramps, you will need wooden "pre-ramps" becasue
the ramps are generally too
steep.
Chuck Willis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 21:27:59
+0000
From: "Aaron Kealey" <
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear power steeering
Hey Guys,
My rear power steering just
blew a leak. I was under the car today, and
there is fluid everywhere, bt
the leak seems to be deep under the trunk/rear
seats and covered by
X-members, trailing arms, hoses, etc... In other words,
I cant get to
it.
Question 1: Is there a part under there that has a reputation for
giving
out, or someone take a good guess at what it is? (Its a 93
TT)
Question 2: People may think this is dumb but, is there any way to
physically diconnect the rear steering? To cap off the hydraulic lines going
to the rear maybe? Would this result in them being loose at speed, or would
they be locked on-centre?
Any input would be a great
help,
Thanks,
Aaron K.
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 15:27:54
-0700
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Auto-X August 25th
Hi All,
On behalf of Nor-Cal Neon (or
as Prince would say.. the club formally known
as BANEON) I'd like to invite
all N. California 3/S members to our 2nd
annual Auto-X (it's annual
now!!). This is run by NASA at Marina airfield
in Marina CA (just down
the road from Laguna Seca). See NASA's San
Francisco Auto-X pages for
information on when your class will run, and
work.
I'd love to see
more of our 3/S's at the auto-x... where we skillfully
manuver our beasts..
or piss off the workers by hitting too many cones! =P
I'll be in my
neon this day.. obviously... can you keep up with our neons?
Hope to see
you there!
- -Jamie
Black '98 Neon R/T
White '91 Stealth
R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 19:07:05
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
help - 92TT stranded and won't start
Hey all,
My 92 RT/TT is
sitting DOA at a local tire shop and won't start.
I left it there for a
week while I was out of town, and somebody left the
ignition on and killed
the battery dead. Real dead. I stopped in today
to
pick it up, found it was dead and had them jump start it. No big deal, or
so
I thought.
I let it sit and idle for a few minutes to charge the battery
(about 3
minutes maybe). I put it in gear, went forward about 10 feet
and the car
started freaking out. Loud "clicking" noises from somewhere
behind the dash
(like a relay kicking on and off) and the dash lit up like a
christmas
tree - check engine light, ABS light, etc.
At the same time
the car wanted to stall, like there was no fuel. I put in
the clutch
and kept pumping the gas and it sputtered for a moment and then
died.
We tried to jump it again, and put it on a charger, and still could
only get
the engine to cough, sputter and then die.
It cranks fine, runs for about
2 seconds and dies. What the hell?
Should I start by just trying to
reset the ECU? Is this just because the
battery was completely dead and
maybe may alternator isn't putting out
enough?
I had it in a dealer a
few months ago and they said the ECU needed to be
replaced, but it was
running fine. It was throwing an injector code on
occasion, and then it
would go away. This was part of a 60k tune up,
including new fuel
pump.
I have the tire shop doing a full charge on the battery while I'm
out of
town for a day. I'm hoping that will fix it, but it sure doesn't
seem like
a dead battery issue since it wouldn't run when connected to the
charger.
Help. Any ideas?
Steve C.
92
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:08:25
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
NASA Racing at Thunderhill this weekend!
A bunch of us will be going to
the NASA Pro Racing HPDE (High Performance
Driving Event) at Thunderhill this
weekend. August 3-4. Check the NASA
website for details, at
www.nasaproracing.com. There are 8
of us going so
far. We'll have 2 tents set up opposite the big green
NASA tent. Events
start at 8AM Saturday; tech inspection is at
7AM. Free BBQ Satuday night,
free child care, all the NASA
goodies... Email me privately if you can
join
us!
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:15:25
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
Steve...
You
might be pleasantly surprised. I went through two Odyssey dry cell batteries
before giving up and going to a trunk mounted Optima Red Top. The symptoms of a
dead battery rival the effects of the neutron bomb. :-)
Get
your battery fully charged, perhaps replaced if it's been run too low and keep
your fingers crossed. I've been in the habit of replacing batteries before they
actually die for quite a few years, but my VR4 is the first car I've owned that
is so sensitive to low voltage that it acts as if it's gone wild on loco
weed.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From:
SWC [mailto:swc@centurytel.net]
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 4:07 PM
To:
Stealth ML
Subject: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
Hey
all,
My 92 RT/TT is sitting DOA at a local tire shop and won't
start.
I left it there for a week while I was out of town, and somebody
left the
ignition on and killed the battery dead. Real
dead. I stopped in today
to pick it up, found it was dead
and had them jump start it. No big deal, or
so I thought.
I let it sit
and idle for a few minutes to charge the battery (about 3
minutes
maybe). I put it in gear, went forward about 10 feet and the
car
started freaking out. Loud "clicking" noises from somewhere behind
the dash
(like a relay kicking on and off) and the dash lit up like a
christmas
tree - check engine light, ABS light, etc.
At the same time
the car wanted to stall, like there was no fuel. I put in
the clutch
and kept pumping the gas and it sputtered for a moment and then
died.
We tried to jump it again, and put it on a charger, and still could
only get
the engine to cough, sputter and then die.
It cranks fine, runs for about
2 seconds and dies. What the hell?
Should I start by just trying to
reset the ECU? Is this just because the
battery was completely dead and
maybe may alternator isn't putting out
enough?
I had it in a dealer a
few months ago and they said the ECU needed to be
replaced, but it was
running fine. It was throwing an injector code on
occasion, and then it
would go away. This was part of a 60k tune up,
including new fuel
pump.
I have the tire shop doing a full charge on the battery while I'm
out of
town for a day. I'm hoping that will fix it, but it sure doesn't
seem like
a dead battery issue since it wouldn't run when connected to the
charger.
Help. Any ideas?
Steve C.
92
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:14:30
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
> Hey all,
> My 92
RT/TT is sitting DOA at a local tire shop and won't start.
-
--------------snip-------------->
I'm hoping that will fix it, but it sure
doesn't seem like
> a dead battery issue since it wouldn't run when
connected to the charger.
> Help. Any ideas?
> Steve
C.
> 92 RT/TT
- --------------------------------->
Unless
it's a fairly new battery and it will take a full charge, you will need
a new
battery. Our cars just don't run with out a full charge - it freaks
out
the ECU, as you discovered. If your overnight charge doesn't work,
buy a new
battery. A failing battery was probably the cause of your
problems earlier
this year, too. Bit the bullet and spend the money for
a new one.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 19:38:33
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
Thanks!
Neutron bomb
is an apt analogy. I suspect an EMP pulse would cause the
exact same
symptoms.
The battery is only two months old - so hopefully it will take
a full
charge.
Steve C.
82 RT/TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
To: "SWC"
<
swc@centurytel.net>; "Stealth ML"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 29, 2002 7:15 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and
won't start
> Steve...
>
> You might be pleasantly
surprised. I went through two Odyssey dry cell
batteries before giving up and
going to a trunk mounted Optima Red Top. The
symptoms of a dead battery rival
the effects of the neutron bomb. :-)
>
> Get your
battery fully charged, perhaps replaced if it's been run too low
and keep
your fingers crossed. I've been in the habit of replacing batteries
before
they actually die for quite a few years, but my VR4 is the first car
I've
owned that is so sensitive to low voltage that it acts as if it's gone
wild
on loco weed.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:13:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What's shakin'?
mike,
you've got to go through the
entire fault isolation process. Start with the
simplest and cheapest
and escalate as needed.
1. inspection - make sure the tires have
proper inflation, no uneven wear,
and no oil is leaking from the front struts
or the steering rack unit, or
power steering unit. Power steering fluid
level okay? Any dents in the
wheels - check inboard
side.
2. Rebalance the tires.
3. Does the rattle occur
only at a certain speed, then go away as you
accellerate past that speed, or
is it just there all the time?
4. When I had a bad strut, you could
feel the front wheels rattle at(very)
low speed when you hit a bump. Turn off
the stereo and roll down the window
and listen.
5. I would be
surprised if your wheel bearings were still good after
150,000
miles.
6. The car can still roll straight with a bad alignment -
for $60 you can
get someone to put the car on the machine and see if it can
be aligned to
spec. They "should" notice things that might be abnormal under
there.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Frey
[mailto:mike21b@ptd.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 4:03 PM
To:
team3S
Subject: Team3S: What's shakin'?
(Gee, I just looked at the
last time I posted. Although I read every post,
it's been since April that I
wrote)
1992 RT/TT - At highway speeds, there is a rattle coming from the
front end
and the wheels shake. It does not feel like an out-of-alignment
issue, feels
more like it's vibrating up and down. Worse after a light bump,
like an
expansion joint or such. Bad struts, bushings, wheel bearings? All of
the
above?
I know it's time for some major replacements after 150,000
miles; everything
(tranny too) is original. Car still looks
great.
Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 16:41:46
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
I've had mixed experiences
with batteries and VR-4s. IIRC, the ABS
self-test that happens soon
after you start the car rolling saps a large
amount of current and can cause
all kinds of Christmas-tree-dash conditions
if the alternator and battery
cannot provide the required current. I've
seen and heard about many of
the symptoms you've described being traced
simply to a bad battery on a VR-4
or SL with ABS. Further, I've been told
by numerous reliable sources
that once a "normal" battery has been fully
discharged, it never accepts a
full charge again (something like only 60-70%
IIRC).
On the
other hand, when I ran my '95 VR-4 nose-first into a concrete wall
and
shredded the alternator belt, my Dynabatt started the car 2 times, drove
it a
total of 1/2 mile, idled it for about 10 minutes, and then started it
one
more time when I got it home to drive it into my garage. On the
last
start, it seemed that it was a little weak, but nothing funny as far as
the
car's operation - electrically, that is ;)
I've also jump-started
a completely dead-battery VR-4 several times and
disconnected the jumper
cables before the ABS self-test. Everything was
fine on these
occasions.
I'm gonna side with Bob and Chris on this one - check out the
battery and
replace it if necessary. Only if that doesn't work would I
start wondering
about other things.
- --Erik
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 21:51:36
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Quickie Oil Change
Which is another good reason I like the Fram
SureDrain system as you
only install the oil drain plug once and all
subsequent drains are by
screwing on a drain hose to the outside threads of
this drain plug
(which has a screwed-on protective cap when not in
use). But your
question is a good one, Chuck.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles
E.
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 09:54
BTW - I forgot to mention that
the crushable metal seal on the oil drain
plug is non-reusable - wonder if
the quickie oil change places have a
good supply of these?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 20:49:22
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: best oil and filter change?
I am forwarding this thread to
Team3S to get some better input. Is this
true, you're not supposed to change
your oil filter every time cause it
doesn't catch the fine grit till it gets
clogged up some??? Doesn't
sound very good to me!
Thanks for your
input!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Skiles [mailto:joatsaint@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 8:42 PM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject: Re:
best oil and filter change?
I read the same thing in the oil filter
article that is referred to on
this
list. I change my filter every other
time now.
>From: "Justin Johnson" <
proskater151@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net>To:
stealth@stls.verio.net>Subject:
best oil and filter change?
>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 03:37:58
+0000
>
>
>Hey guys sorry but I'm kind of new at this. I
change my oil and filter
>every
>2500 to 3000 miles. But I hear that
you should change your filter with
>every
>other oil change because
it doesn't start catching the fine grit until
it
>starts to clog up a
bit. What do you think?
>
>Justin Johnson
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 23:26:48
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Back from Moloka'i
I be mo betta now.
8 days on Moloka'i
tends to mellow you out, cousins.
First few days, I was dive bombing the
hills in the rental, hitting 100 mph down the hill one day and racing with a 400
lb Hawaiian another day (they throw beer cans at you when you pass!). As time
passed and police surveillance increased, I got with the program. By the end of
our stay, I was cruisin at the (shudder) speed limit, along with the rest of my
new cousins, because I was in no hurry, mon.
Not a single stop light on
the island. Some of the Stop signs say "Whoa!" Lots of police, armed with radar,
out to get tourists. Friendly natives.
At this time of the year, tourists
are scarce. We had a 3.5 mile white sand beach to ourselves, and the resort pool
was empty most of the time.
Nothing to do, and we did every bit of it.
Not even four days at Waikiki afterward could kill the mellowness of Moloka'i.
However, next time we'll end the trip with a week at Moloka'i instead of
starting off with it.
Back to the grind. Back to my broken ABS and
whatever else was troubling me two weeks ago. Can't seem to remember what it
was.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 23:07:32
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
How much you want to bet
that someone at the shop took the car out for a joy
ride and blew the
Y-Pipe.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "SWC"
<
swc@centurytel.net>
To:
"Stealth ML" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 29, 2002 5:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't
start
> Hey all,
>
> My 92 RT/TT is sitting DOA at a local
tire shop and won't start.
>
> I left it there for a week while I
was out of town, and somebody left the
> ignition on and killed the
battery dead. Real dead. I stopped in today
> to
pick it up, found it was dead and had them jump start it. No big
deal,
or
> so I thought.
>
> I let it sit and idle for a
few minutes to charge the battery (about 3
> minutes maybe). I put
it in gear, went forward about 10 feet and the car
> started freaking
out. Loud "clicking" noises from somewhere behind the
dash
>
(like a relay kicking on and off) and the dash lit up like a christmas
>
tree - check engine light, ABS light, etc.
>
> At the same time the
car wanted to stall, like there was no fuel. I put
in
> the
clutch and kept pumping the gas and it sputtered for a moment and then
>
died. We tried to jump it again, and put it on a charger, and still
could
> only get the engine to cough, sputter and then
die.
>
> It cranks fine, runs for about 2 seconds and dies.
What the hell?
>
> Should I start by just trying to reset the
ECU? Is this just because the
> battery was completely dead and
maybe may alternator isn't putting out
> enough?
>
> I had it
in a dealer a few months ago and they said the ECU needed to be
>
replaced, but it was running fine. It was throwing an injector code
on
> occasion, and then it would go away. This was part of a 60k
tune up,
> including new fuel pump.
>
> I have the tire shop
doing a full charge on the battery while I'm out of
> town for a
day. I'm hoping that will fix it, but it sure doesn't seem
like
>
a dead battery issue since it wouldn't run when connected to the
charger.
>
> Help. Any ideas?
>
> Steve C.
>
92 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 22:04:36
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FW: best oil and filter change?
That's kind of an old wives tail
--- the story is, the filter will pick up some
junk from the engine
and be partially plugged and therefore be able to
filter out finer and finer
particles. The filter is designed to filter a certain
minimum size particle
and if the oil and the filter are changed regularly it
will do the job
required. The same story has been applied to air filters.
Another line of
thought is that if you change the oil every 3000 miles
you can get buy with
changing the filter every other change. You
could probably do that with
little or no ill affects but all you save is the
cost of a filter which is
kind of minimal. As long as you're doing the job
you might as well do the
whole thing.
Jim
berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
To:
"'Team 3s'" <
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 29, 2002 8:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: FW: best oil and filter
change?
> I am forwarding this thread to Team3S to get some better
input. Is this
> true, you're not supposed to change your oil filter every
time cause it
> doesn't catch the fine grit till it gets clogged up
some??? Doesn't
> sound very good to me!
>
> Thanks for your
input!
>
> Matt Nelson
> 1994 RT TT
>
BlackLight@Planetice.Net>
www.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 22:39:15
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FW: best oil and filter change?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> That's kind of an
old wives tail --- the story is, the filter will pick up
some junk from
the engine and be partially plugged and therefore be able to
filter out finer
and finer particles. The filter is designed to filter a
certain minimum size
particle and if the oil and the filter are changed
regularly it will do the
job required. The same story has been applied to air
filters.
> Another
line of thought is that if you change the oil every 3000 miles you
can get by
with changing the filter every other change. You could probably do
that with
little or no ill effects but all you save is the cost of a filter
which is
kind of minimal. As long as you're doing the job you might as well do
the
whole thing.
> Jim
berry
- ---------------------------->
'fraid not. That's
*not* an 'old wive's tale'..., it's sound science. It's
published on
everything from the K&N FIPK install manual to the Fram site.
As
particles 'clog' up the filter (ANY filter - water - oil - air), those
larger
particles themselves filter smaller particles. Pure logic,
Captain Kirk...
As per the FIPK manual, "the filter actually works *better*
the dirtier it
gets". Says the same on my home Ultrapure water filter
system, too. You can
change the filter 'as long as you're at it', OR
you can leave it in for a
second oil change cycle and filter the smaller
particle that *will* get
through a new filter. Change it every *other*
cycle, if you believe the
manufacturers. (And this old NASA
engineer)... ;-)
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 00:07:32
-0500
From: "Matt Costanza" <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Revisiting - Replacement speakers for Infinity Sound System
Ok. I
seem to be running around in circles in my attempt to get
replacement
speakers for my 97 3000GT SL. I have the Infinity sound system.
My left
front speaker is blown. I am now also getting some rattling from my
right
rear speaker. I'm looking to replace both door and rear speakers. I
have
gone throgh the messages as well as the FAQ at the 3si.org site but I
can't
seem to get an exact answer. My visit to a local Custom Sounds seems to
have
added to the confusion.
>From what I have learned, the
Infinity system has a distinctive cross-over
system to all of the speakers in
the car. This complicates matters when you
just want to replace the speakers.
While aftermarket speakers may "fit" into
the car, they most likely will not
sound very good or no be driven at the
required power levels when compared to
the stock speakers. This makes is
very dificult to just replace the stock
speakers with aftermarket speakers.
I went to a local Custom Sounds to
inquire about the Infinity Kappa series
speakers. I learned of these speakers
from another member here on the list
(Mike with a 97 SL as well). Custom
Sounds has explained to me that the
Infinity Kappa series speakers may work
but they will either not sound that
good due to the way the stock speakers
are powered from the amp or not be
powered correctly due to the unique
crossover rating from the stock
speakers.
I explained to the folks at
Custom Sounds that I'm not really interested in
replacing my whole system.
Just the speakers. So, anyone here have any info
on replacement speakers that
will 1) fit in the front door and rear panels,
2) Work correctly with the
existing Infinity Sound system.
I'm not really interested in replacing
the speakers with the same stock
speakers. They are made of paper and are
*very* prone to being blown. I
don't want to go through the exercise again in
a few months or so.
Thanks in advance for any info..
Regards,
-
--
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 23:22:15
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Idle Speed Control Servo
According to my repair manual, the Idle
Speed Control Servo is supposed to
turn on with the ignition ON. Mine
doesn't turn on or do anything at all.
I have checked the harness with a DMM
and everything there checks out. I am
getting power to it.
Is it
supposed to turn on like the manual says or does it only turn on when
the
engine is running?
I just want to be sure before I replace
it.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 19:18:16
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
You should have taken
advice at the time and had the ECU rebuilt, it's
well
overdue.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 08:13:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start
strange as it may seem,
low voltage from the battery can cause these things.
Put a new battery in and
see if the car doesn't have a new lease on life.
If that doesn't work,
remember,you have to drive it around for a while for
the ECU to relearn the
fuel map,then consider a new ECU.
Chuck
- -----Original
Message-----
From: SWC [mailto:swc@centurytel.net]
Sent: Monday, July 29,
2002 6:07 PM
To: Stealth ML
Subject: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and
won't start
Hey all,
My 92 RT/TT is sitting DOA at a local tire
shop and won't start.
I left it there for a week while I was out of town,
and somebody left the
ignition on and killed the battery dead. Real
dead. I stopped in today
to pick it up, found it was dead
and had them jump start it. No big deal, or
so I thought.
I let it sit
and idle for a few minutes to charge the battery (about 3
minutes
maybe). I put it in gear, went forward about 10 feet and the
car
started freaking out. Loud "clicking" noises from somewhere behind
the dash
(like a relay kicking on and off) and the dash lit up like a
christmas
tree - check engine light, ABS light, etc.
At the same time
the car wanted to stall, like there was no fuel. I put in
the clutch
and kept pumping the gas and it sputtered for a moment and then
died.
We tried to jump it again, and put it on a charger, and still could
only get
the engine to cough, sputter and then die.
It cranks fine, runs for about
2 seconds and dies. What the hell?
Should I start by just trying to
reset the ECU? Is this just because the
battery was completely dead and
maybe may alternator isn't putting out
enough?
I had it in a dealer a
few months ago and they said the ECU needed to be
replaced, but it was
running fine. It was throwing an injector code on
occasion, and then it
would go away. This was part of a 60k tune up,
including new fuel
pump.
I have the tire shop doing a full charge on the battery while I'm
out of
town for a day. I'm hoping that will fix it, but it sure doesn't
seem like
a dead battery issue since it wouldn't run when connected to the
charger.
Help. Any ideas?
Steve C.
92
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#911
***************************************