Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, July 29
2002 Volume 01 : Number
910
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Jul 2002 23:04:37 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil Change Magnetic Plug
I've also heard of magnets on the
outside of the oil pan. I can not
comment on a filter catching it
though. I just did quick match and
assumed if the surface area of the
drain plug is 1 square inch (which it
certainly is not but it makes math
easier). Then if the inside of the
oil pan is 100 square inches (and
I'm sure it is way more than that)
then it will take one hundred passes of
oil for each square inch of oil
to pass over the drain plug (it does not flow
down a tube so this is
unrealistic but go with me here). Make
sense?
And I don't know how fast or how much the oil sloshes around in
there
but I think it would just wipe the metal particles off the drain
plug.
My stock drain plug after 90k miles was not strong enough to hold
itself
against the refrigerator. I don't think it is very strong so I
had no
problem changing it.
The Fram SureDrain is installed once into
the threads of the oil pan and
from then on the drain tube is screwed onto
the outside of this drain
plug so if you ever strip the threads in this new
drain plug then it
will be on the outside and not on the oil pan itself
(which is a bear to
remove I see). Yes you will need the special drain
hose to make life
easier or perhaps a paperclip to push the inner diaphragm
up into the
oil pan to allow oil to flow. What I like about it is you
can turn it
on and off. When you pull the drain plug it is hard to stop
it from
gushing if you need to move the catch pan or get another
container.
With the 6"-8" flexible drain tube you can direct it into a bottle
or
container and then put your thumb over the end, get a new container,
and
start the flow again.
Next oil change I will detail the steps
needed in this new process. I
might not even jack the car up if I can
drive it onto a small incline.
But even with jacking up the front of the car
it should still take less
than 5 minutes to raise the car, drain the oil, and
fill with new oil.
Certainly less than 10 minutes but 5 would be a new
record. Then I will
feel like I have "won."
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: dakken
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2002
19:36
I have heard of placing a strong magnet (like an old speaker
magnet) on
the oil filter to catch metal bits. Then when you change the
filter,
the metal bits are supposed to go with it. The only thing that
seems
weird is: isn't the oil filter supposed to catch all those metal
bits
without the aid of a magnet?
I did see a significant amount of
metal on my transmission drain plug
when I changed my transmission oil.
I have never seen any on an oil
drain plug.
I have bought the Fram
plug, also and I like it. I was concerned about
the valve inadvertantly
opening during driving, but with the cap and
second rubber seal on it I feel
confident that even if that happens no
oil will leak out.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 08:48:33
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
Steve,
Install A/F meters to monitor
both O2 sensors and get back to us on this.
Those of us monitoring both
sensors already know the truth. Remember, (1)
oxygen sensors are only used
during closed loop in our cars, and (2) Jap
models could (most likely?
must?) use a different ECM (ours have a terminal
for every oxygen sensor
installed, whether 2 or 4).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wide-Band O2
DIY
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 12:01:31 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
To:
<
team3S@team3s.com>
but the
ECU
> does control each bank seperately
I've seen this stated
before and I don't believe it's true. It's more likely
that the ECU looks at
both sensors and adjusts the mixture to all injectors
using the "Worst"
input.
The reason being that the JDM cars only use a single
sensor.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 08:23:09
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
Digikey is an electronics distributor.
Call
1-800-555-1212 information for their 800 number.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Damon Rachell [mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Friday,
July 26, 2002 1:00 PM
To: Philip V. Glazatov
Cc:
team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Wide-Band O2 DIY
wow, that sounds like a great little project. I
think i'm going to try
it as well. It would be great to have a
wideband on the car for optimum
tuning.
Just one question, after
looking briefly through, where do you get the
board from? what is
digikey? I know most of the parts are available
through radioshack,
but things like the display don't seem so straight
forward. any
suggestions as to how to incorporate the display?
Damon
Philip
V. Glazatov wrote:
> Just wanted to let everybody know that I ordered
2 kits and 2 boards for
> DIY wide-band O2 sensors. Go to
http://www.diy-wb.com for details. They
> have a group buy now for those kits and boards. You can have your own
> wide-band O2 for under $200. I bought just the kits and boards for now
-
> spent $40. If I become brave enough and solder everything together,
then
> I will buy the O2 sensors too. Those are Honda sensors and they
are
> available for ~$129.
>
> Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 16:38:38
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
Just a small question : what is the lifetime
of these sensors ? WB sensors
often go south after a few hours contignous
usage.
And again, it must be noted that they DON'T replace the stock
sensors as
they are not compatible.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Damon
Rachell'" <
damonr@mefas.com>;
"Philip V. Glazatov"
<
gphilip@umich.edu>
Cc: <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, July
28, 2002 4:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
>
>
Digikey is an electronics distributor.
> Call 1-800-555-1212 information
for their 800 number.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 07:49:33
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Brembo
brakes
There's a guy on the 3SI.com list that is selling a set of Brembo
brakes
sold by Stillen ---- he claims low mileage and is selling for $1000.
That's
a hell of a buy for the Brembo setup. I'd buy em myself but I have
the
Reds and no money.
He doesn't have much of a history on the list so I
would recommend going
through escrow with the transaction.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=a0cb74e9339f11145f42b4fa31f2c468&threadid=91146&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
Jim Berry
PS: A friend has the Stillen/Brembo kit and we noticed the
other day that
because of the adaptor they send for the rotor the hub
centric lip used to
locate the wheel is no longer available. As a result the
wheel has to be located
with the tapered lug nuts which is not as effective.
Different rotors would
probably solve the problem.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 08:04:31
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wide-Band O2 DIY
The article says that the sensor comes from one of the
lean burn Honda
engines and goes on to give some additional info.
http://www.diy-wb.com/02info.htm
Jim Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, July
28, 2002 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
> Just a
small question : what is the lifetime of these sensors ? WB sensors
>
often go south after a few hours contignous usage.
>
> And again,
it must be noted that they DON'T replace the stock sensors as
> they are
not compatible.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
> To:
"'Damon Rachell'" <
damonr@mefas.com>; "Philip V.
Glazatov"
> <
gphilip@umich.edu>
> Cc: <
team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent: Sunday,
July 28, 2002 4:23 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
>
> >
> > Digikey is an electronics distributor.
> >
Call 1-800-555-1212 information for their 800 number.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 11:23:26
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Misfiring, Bad Starts, and For Sale
Okay, this letter has a few
things in it.
First off, after installing the AVC-R, boost gauge, fuel
pressure, EGT
and coolant temp gauges, my car doesn't start very well when
it's cold.
It sputters and is a lot of work to get running. It sounds
like it's
horribly misfiring, also. Any ideas?
On a sadder note,
I think I am going to leave the 3S world for a while.
With the recession and
all, I don't have the money to keep up with
insurance (19 year old, single,
male). So, I am putting my 3000GT up
for sale on the list first.
Hopefully I will have whatever ails the car
fixed by the time I find a
buyer. Now the idea is when I graduate from
college and insurance isn't
such a pain in the butt, I'll get another 3S
(hopefully a VR-4 Spyder).
I won't be leaving Mitsubishi, though. I'm
just going to move over to
DSM and hopefully *fingers crossed* get a
Galant VR-4. Anywho, below is
what is for sale. Feel free to make an
offer and I'll have a site up
with the mods and some pics soon.
- -Brad
1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR-4:
VIN: JA3AN74K4VY005350
27,700 miles
Body: 1999 Front End &
Spoiler
Wheels, Tires, Suspension: 19" Axis Se7en wheels, 245/35ZR19 Toyo
T1-S
Proxes, Intrax lowering springs
Engine & Exhaust: K&N, Blitz
Supersound BOV, DN Performance Intercooler
Pipes, Magnecor KV85 Wires, Apex'i
AVC-R Boost Controller, BOZZ Speed
Dual Cannon Exhaust (true dual, no
cats)
Gauges: GReddy Boost, EGT, Temperature, Fuel Pressure & Oil
Pressure
Interior: Indiglo gauges, Kenwood Z828 CD/CD-R/CD-RW/MP3/AM/FM
Receiver,
stock Infinity door and dash speakers, Boston Acoustic 6x9s powered
by a
Clarion amp, 4-8" Diamond Audio subs in a custom box powered by
an
Eclipse Amp, Sparco Globe-X shift knob and Sparco Stripes
pedals
2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT
VIN: 4A3AC54H61E125904
9,700
miles
Body: Shinestreet Body Kit w/sideskirts and fenderflares,
Grillecraft
grill kit
Suspension: Eibach Pro-Kit lowering
springs
Engine & Exhaust: AEM Cold Air Intake, GReddy Evolution cat-back
exhaust
Interior: Momo Combat shift knob and Momo Corse Tuning pedals,
Pioneer
DEH P-4400 CD/AM/FM receiver, stock Infinity speakers and 2-10"
Kenwood
Tornadoes powered by a Kenwood Amp
I'm in Ellensburg, WA which
is 110 miles west of Seattle, 170 miles east
of Spokane, 70 miles south of
Wenatchee and 40 miles north of Yakima.
For any questions, reply to me off
list Thanks and it's been fun.
- -Brad
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 11:55:58
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Misfiring, Bad Starts, and For Sale
Thought maybe
I should fix this:
I'm in Ellensburg, WA which is 110 miles EAST of
Seattle, 170 miles WEST
of Spokane, 70 miles south of Wenatchee and 40 miles
north of Yakima.
For any questions, reply to me off list Thanks and
it's been fun. -Brad
Also, the site is up and it's at
http://www.geocities.com/bradford.rm/carsforsale.html.
-
-Brad
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 17:02:55
-0400
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Team3S: What's
shakin'?
(Gee, I just looked at the last time I posted. Although I read
every post,
it's been since April that I wrote)
1992 RT/TT - At
highway speeds, there is a rattle coming from the front end
and the wheels
shake. It does not feel like an out-of-alignment issue, feels
more like it's
vibrating up and down. Worse after a light bump, like an
expansion joint or
such. Bad struts, bushings, wheel bearings? All of the
above?
I know
it's time for some major replacements after 150,000 miles; everything
(tranny
too) is original. Car still looks great.
Mike
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 14:27:32
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What's shakin'?
> 1992 RT/TT - At highway speeds, there is
a rattle coming from the front
end
> and the wheels shake. It does not
feel like an out-of-alignment issue,
feels
> more like it's vibrating
up and down. Worse after a light bump, like an
> expansion joint or
such.
I recently replaced my front shocks. My driver's side shock
was completely
blown. There was rattling after every bump. I did
not have any shaking
driving on smooth roads. Bumpy roads caused a lot
of rattle. Also, the
rattle would become less when I changed to the
sport setting but it was
still there. Just less of it. I isolated
the problem by driving over
individual bumps that only hit one side of the
car. I found that only the
driver's side front tire was
rattling.
First, check your power steering fluid level. Make sure
you have fluid in
there. Easy to do and will only take 10
seconds.
To check your bearings, grab the top of the wheel and see if you
can push it
towards or away from the car. Then jack up the front end
and with the
transmission in neutral, move the wheels with your hand.
There should not
be any play in the wheel or binding.
You can check
your shocks by pressing down with all your weight on each
corner of your car
and watching it rebound. It should only pop up one time
and them
stop. My blown shock would bounce a few times.
If you suspect a
wheel out of balance, then move your front wheels to the
rear and see if the
shaking moves to your rear end. If your front wheels
are out of
balance, then you will feel it in the steering wheel. Your
steering
wheel will vibrate as you drive, make a turn or lane change. My
old
front tires were badly worn and out of balance. They would
vibrate
every time I did a lane change over 60 mph.
You should check
all of your suspention parts and bushings. An anti-sway
bar bushing
going out can cause vibration as can just about any suspention
part that has
come loose. With your car on jack stands, grab different
parts of your
suspention and try to shake them. Everything should be
firmly
mounted.
The good news is that suspension problems tend to be
much easier to find
than engine problems and are usually easier to
fix.
Good Luck.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 14:35:35
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Vibration at highway speeds (was: What's shakin'?)
> 1992
RT/TT - At highway speeds, there is a rattle coming from the front end
and
the wheels shake. It does not feel like an out-of-alignment issue, feels
more
like it's vibrating up and down. Worse after a light bump, like an
expansion
joint or such. Bad struts, bushings, wheel bearings? All of the
above?
-
----------------snip----------------->
Yes, it could be all of the
above (especially struts, but including alignment
or wheels out of balance),
but you can add these as possibilities or as
catalysts for making the problem
worse:
- --Unevenly-torqued (or over-torqued) lugnuts
- --Bent rims
-
--Underinflation (use +4psi all around for 60mph+)
Good
luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 11:15:46
+0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Generator
Hello.
My generator showes 12.4 v on the
voltmeter.
Time for a repair?
The ventilation (defroster9 at the
vindscreen is broken.
I am going to replace then and is thera a site where
this is shown.
Tried to buy a center cap from a Mitsu dealer. The dont
sell Dodge things.
Any site for a Dodge dealer?
Have a Stealth ES 1991.
16" original wheels.
Hans
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#910
***************************************