Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, July 26
2002 Volume 01 : Number
908
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Jul 2002 16:17:55 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
> Having no movement available in
the driveline by having
> solid motor mounts is going to torque on
components in
> the tranny a lot more during shock loading than having
> mounts that have some give to them.
So I was thinking about the
above comment...
How will solid motor mounts increase the stress on the
tranny (and/or
transfer case) when compared to normal stock mounts that have
play in them?
If you allow the motor/tranny to move, then you're stressing
the parts of
the car that are bolted to the chassis without mounts or parts
connected to
the ground.
I don't remember if the rear diff has
play in it, but as it's the rear
jacking point, I'd think it's pretty
solid. So the stock mounts would
stress the driveshaft and rear diff as
the motor rocks, I think.
Then there's things like the CV joints and the
half-shafts coming out of the
tranny. Those would have to move around
to allow the motor to move
independent of the chassis, so I'd guess you'd be
stressing them, too.
If you had solid mounts, the engine basically
wouldn't move relative to the
chassis, rear diff, half-shafts, CV joints, and
everything else. I'd think
this would help with the overall stress due
to torquing things at weird
angles. It'd probably also make it easier
to break the tires loose on the
launch, which would further unload the
drivetrain stress in a non-damaging
manner.
Please tell me what I'm
missing :-)
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 16:36:33
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
DYNO #'s
those are very impressive #s. What's been done to the car
besides the
TD05s? What kind of head work, valves, injectors, fuel
computer, etc?
How much boost was run on the dyno and at the track?
any dyno sheets
and time sheets to back these claims up?
If I
remember correctly, the doubt originated not by the turbos being
used, but
the claim that 610WHP was obtained from a 3.0L running only
16PSI of
boost. not that the 3.0L can't make 610whp. We do it all the
time at GTPro with GT368 turbos (smaller than most TD05 big turbos such
as 18Gs), so I know that those #s are very doable, just skeptical about
the boost it's run at.
Damon
StealthCT@aol.com wrote:
> It
should be noted that I posted some dyno #'s (610WHP) here a couple of
>
weeks ago. The dyno #'s are about the same that Mike (AAM) got on his dyno
> run on the AAM dyno. There were several of you who quickly
pointed out that
> those numbers had to be incorrect because no 3 liter
engine could possibly be
> making that kind of HP with the turbo's (TD05)
that we are using. In fact
> you relied on Mr. Lucus's formula's to
prove your point. Mike (AAM) ran a 11
> second quarter mile at a
speed of 134 MPH in a car weighing 3700 LBS (without
> Mike who weighs
200 LBS). Now would those who questioned the dyno #s please
> use
your formula's and please give me an estimate based on your calculations
> of what the WHP is for Mike's car since our dyno seems to be incorrect
> according to your calculation. Regards
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 16:49:12
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ignition upgrade questions
All -
I'm looking around at my
options for an ignition upgrade. After some
archive searching, I've
found that many people are using Accel motorcycle
coils with the stock
ignition, and seem quite happy with them. Other people
are using Accel
coils with an MSD DIS-4 (or HO), and those people seem happy
as well.
Roger G. voiced some concerns about the low resistance of the
Accel coils
putting too much stress on the stock ignition, but I couldn't
find any
resolution to this concern. A few people also started playing the
some
GM coils, but I couldn't find any results on those experiments.
So, at
this point there are a couple of options I'm looking at:
- Stock ignition,
Accel coils (non-CD)
- MSD DIS-4, Accel coils (CD)
- MSD DIS-4 HO, Accel
coils
I would try just the Accel coils first, but if I didn't feel they
were
enough, then I'd have to get the CD version to work with the MSD,
putting me
out a couple hundred bucks.
Anybody have any
experience with any of these setups? Pro/cons, either
theoretical or
experiential?
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 20:10:05
EDT
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Dyno#'s
I have a TD05 set up with 18G turbo's and the 610WHP was at 20
PSI of boost.
If you wish to see all my other modifications go to the
AAM web page and
click on Chuck's Car. The other comment that was made
by some on this forum
was that these turbo's could not make power down low
in the RPM range so
therefore were no good for drag racing. I would
invite those folks to go to
the AAM site and look at the video's of Mike's
two runs. You will see Mike
smoking all four tires coming off the line
and all the way through second
gear. Rather impressive I would
say. Regards Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:14:18
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: DYNO #'s
> those are very impressive #s. What's been
done to the car besides the
> TD05s? What kind of head work, valves,
injectors, fuel computer, etc?
> How much boost was run on the dyno and at
the track? any dyno sheets
> and time sheets to back these claims
up?
The times were run in front of plenty of people at the Diamond
Star
Shootout. I don't think there's any question that the times/traps
are
authentic. That car really does* have the top-end power for
sure.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/attachment.php?s=&postid=765343Video:
http://www.3snationalgathering.com/ccow/AAM_11p098_@_134p43_vs_JeremyG.aviYou'll
need DiVx codecs to view the movie file.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 18:27:07
-0600
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Thanks for the advice,
I think that I might
end up waiting for the 14b conversion kits at 3si.
Either that or just shell
out $1500 and get the DR500s.
Thanks again,
Gabe
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of BlackLight
Sent: Thursday,
July 25, 2002 2:46 AM
To: 'Chris Winkley';
stealthdevil@netzero.net; 'Team
3s'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Agreed. Recent article from mag I
cant remember on turbo upgrades went
over almost everything I could think to
ask (or wonder). They even did a
tid bit on upgrading stock turbos and / or
turbos with too small of a
housing. Didn't pay too much attention to most of
it, but basically
shoving all the goodies into a tiny housing can lead to
disaster. Maybe
it doesn't transfer heat appropriately, or a certain sidewall
gets too
thin, whatever, they said to watch out for that kind of
thing.
Especially if you pay for porting and clipping, make sure they do
it was
another theme stated, or if they say that there building the turbos
with
bearings that they are real bearings, stuff to that
justification.
Cheers!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Chris Winkley
Sent:
Wednesday, July 24, 2002 9:48 PM
To:
stealthdevil@netzero.net; Team
3s
Subject: RE: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Gabe...
I think someone is
pulling your leg(s). Even if it was twice the cost
(which would be more
likely) I don't think this can physically be done.
Having had my 15Gs rebuilt
by TEC, I asked about the ability to upgrade
to 17Gs. They told me that, not
only are the impeller wheels a different
diameter, but the housings are
different. I can't imagine what someone
would do (or how) to enlarge the
internals (housing, shafts, bushings,
wheels, etc.) to make a 17G out of a
stock 9B. I suggest you contact TEC
and ask them.
Major caution
advised...I just read an article in Auto Week about the
Hennessey Viper
operation that reminded me of something we went through
with 3KGTs a few
years ago. Lots of promises, cars sitting in pieces,
parts taken from one car
and put on another. Major rebuilds requested
and paid for, only to find that
many of the stock parts were still
there. I saved the article, it would
certainly be an eye-opener for
anyone who was going to spend over $100K on
upgrades, only to find their
car in parts a year later, or find that the
parts they paid for didn't
end up in their car. Remember, if you don't do the
work, or know the
person who does (and trust them with your favorite car)
they can tell
you they put anything into the turbos and you won't know what's
really
in there unless you take them apart yourself to check (or have the
specs
for 17Gs and check them before they are installed).
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gabe Simoes
[mailto:stealthdevil@netzero.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 7:02
PM
To: Team 3s
Subject: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Hey guys,
Need
some advice. The engine overhaul is in process and I was looking
to
upgrade my turbos at this time. I contacted Majestic Turbo and
they
said that they could turn my 9b's into 17G's for $700 a pop. Is
this
right? Would I be getting some crappy hybrid turbo with tons of lag
due
to inadequate part selection? Would this be a decent path to take for
a
~$1500 budget? Walking in the dark here so if someone could shed
some
light it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Gabe
Simoes
TEAM EXCELR8ED
- -President
'92 Black Stealth RTTT
- -
Intake & Exhaust @ 16psi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:28:02
-0500
From: "Rachel Allen" <
all17@netins.net>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel
pump pressure problem..
I am having problems with the pressure in the
fuel pump. What kicks in the
pump to build up pressure?
My 91
Stealth won't always start. It has juice to the pump when you turn
it
over but the fuel pump doesn't kick in. If I put gas in the starter
body
then it will start right up. Does anyone have a
suggestion?
Dan Scott
Wilton, Iowa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:33:10
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3SX Performance motor mounts
Solid motor mounts will increase the
instantaneous shock loading of the
drivetrain.
When the engine
produces torque, a twisting force, it tries to twist the
drivetrain via the
input shaft of the transaxle. Since every ACTION must
have an equal and
opposite REACTION, the fact that the drivetrain is being
twisted in ONE
direction means the engine itself is being twisted in the
OPPOSITE
direction. So, if there were NO MOTOR MOUNTS, the drivetrain would
stay
almost STILL while the ENGINE would spin around! Enter the
"Motor
Mount".
1) Start with weak rubber-bands as motor mounts.
The maximum torque/shock
you can apply through the drivetrain, if the engine
is mounted by weak
rubber bands, is "very little" because any more force than
the rubberbands
can hold is instead turned into the ENGINE rotating
around. The rubber
bands are the LIMITING FACTOR to how much
torque/shock can possibly get to
the drivetrain.
2) Next, use soft
rubber motor mounts. In "neutral" unloaded position they
are soft; as
engine produces a torque, they start twisting/rubber starts
compressing,
causing a ramp-up of transmitted torque available to go to
the
drivetrain. On one side, the engine is "rocking" one direction; on
the
other side, the drivetrain is "rocking" or being TURNED in the
other
direction. The more torque/force the engine produces, the more
rubber
motormount compression happens, until a new equilibrium is reached
between
the input torque and output/drivetrain.
3) Last, use SOLID
STEEL motor mounts. As engine produces torque, there is
essentially
INSTANTANEOUS RAMP-UP of force before/during torque/twisting
buildup in the
drivetrain; since ONE side (motormount) will NOT "give" at
all, the force is
INSTANTANEOUSLY transmitted to the drivetrain! The
compression of
the steel motormount is essentially instantaneous; so since
every ACTION has
an equal and opposite REACTION, the DRIVETRAIN must also
"instantaneously"
achieve the high-speed that the engine is at! This lack
of motormount
"rocking" or rubber hysteresis-force buildup (relatively
gradual compared to
polyurethane or steel) means the instantaneous shock
loading produced by
solid motor mounts is certainly higher than that with
softer rubber
mounts. This can show up in broken motormounts,
broken
transaxle/drivetrain parts. Forcing a collection of (sorta
heavy)
drivetrain parts to "instantaneously" reach FULL force/rpm puts a very
high
instantaneous shockload on them. Sure it is a matter of
milliseconds but
they are important. Sometimes it is an advantage if
one has slicks and
WANTS to "hit"or shockload the slicks on
launch.
Even though the rubber mounts don't "give" for long, a matter
of
milliseconds, if the time to total torque in drivetrain goes from say
40
milliseconds to 10 milliseconds by a much harder mount, you can multiply
the
instantaneous shockloading by up to 4 times. You have turned a
nice
friendly rubber-mounted power transmission system into an
instantaneous
shockload of higher magnitude.
It's like trying to start
a big 100hp electric motor from 0 rpm by just
applying FULL
voltage/power to it--the AMPERAGE load goes through the roof
for a short time
until the motor gets some rpm's! This can blow fuses,
overheat wiring
etc. That's why there are starter windings and electronics
to AVOID
that instantaneous load while the motor starts up/forces start...it
is the
same sort of thing.
Water is very soft if you enter it slowly or dive in
from 3 feet. When you
hit it instantaneously from 100 foot dive, water
acts very hard :)
That "ramp-up of force" can make a world of
difference.
Having said that, I have 3SX solid mounts on my 93 VR4, and am
somewhat
concerned for the above reasons...
Jack T.
From: "Gross,
Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
[snips]
> How will solid motor mounts increase the stress on the
tranny/
> transfer case compared to stock mounts that have play?
>
If the motor/tranny move, you're stressing parts of
> the car that bolted
to chassis without mounts or parts connected to the
ground.
> I don't
remember if rear diff has play, but it's the rear
> jacking point, I'd
think it's pretty solid. So the stock mounts would
> stress the
driveshaft and rear diff as the motor rocks.
> The CV
joints/half-shafts--those would have to move to allow motor to move
>
independent of chassis, so you'd be stressing them, too.
> If you had
solid mounts, engine wouldn't move relative to
> chassis, rear diff,
half-shafts, CV joints. I think
> this would help with overall
stress due to torquing things at weird
> angles. It'd be easier to
break tires loose on
> launch, which would further unload drivetrain
stress in non-damaging
manner.
> Please tell me what I'm missing
:-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:41:21
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Ignition upgrade questions
I have DIS4HO and it totally solved ignition
blowout problems at high boost
and with nitrous oxide for me. My
ignition is o/w stock coils/wires/etc.
It has nice 2 step for drag launching;
and nice ignition retard options.
>From what I've heard from others, the
standard DIS4 does NOT solve our
problems as reliably as my DIS4HO does for
me.
Jack T.
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
[snips]
> I'm looking at ignition upgrade. Many are using Accel
motorcycle
> coils with stock ignition, seem happy. Others
are
> using Accel coils with MSD DIS-4/HO, those people happy. Roger
G. voiced
concerns about low resistance of
> Accel coils putting too
much stress on stock ignition, but I couldn't
> find any resolution to
this. Some started using GM coils, but I couldn't
find results on those
experiments.
> options:
> - Stock ignition, Accel coils
(non-CD)
> - MSD DIS-4, Accel coils (CD)
> - MSD DIS-4 HO, Accel
coils
> I would try Accel coils first; if I didn't feel they were
>
enough, then I'd get CD version to work with MSD, putting me out a couple
$
hundred.
> Anybody have experience with these setups? Pro/cons,
theoretical or
experiential?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 17:43:22
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3SX Performance motor mounts
Is there such a thing as a
"soft" motor mount that lasts as long as the hard
ones or at least longer
than the stock ones?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:52:37
-0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ignition upgrade questions
Dynamic Racing has an effective
ignition upgrade for sale. They've tested
it on Matt's car that ran
129mph in the 1/4.
www.dynamicracing.com and click on
"ignition components"
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet
Silverado HD Duramax
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geddes,
Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
To:
"Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Starnet
Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Thursday, July 25, 2002 6:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
questions
> All -
>
> I'm looking around at my options for
an ignition upgrade. After some
> archive searching, I've found that
many people are using Accel motorcycle
> coils with the stock ignition,
and seem quite happy with them. Other
people
> are using Accel
coils with an MSD DIS-4 (or HO), and those people seem
happy
> as
well. Roger G. voiced some concerns about the low resistance of
the
> Accel coils putting too much stress on the stock ignition, but I
couldn't
> find any resolution to this concern. A few people also
started playing
the
> some GM coils, but I couldn't find any results on
those experiments.
>
> So, at this point there are a couple of
options I'm looking at:
> - Stock ignition, Accel coils (non-CD)
> -
MSD DIS-4, Accel coils (CD)
> - MSD DIS-4 HO, Accel coils
>
>
I would try just the Accel coils first, but if I didn't feel they were
>
enough, then I'd have to get the CD version to work with the MSD,
putting
me
> out a couple hundred bucks.
>
> Anybody have
any experience with any of these setups? Pro/cons, either
>
theoretical or experiential?
>
> - Brian
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 17:48:27
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump pressure problem..
> I am having problems with
the pressure in the fuel pump. What kicks in
the
> pump to build
up pressure?
What kicks in is the fuel pressure relay. It increases
voltage to the fuel
pump. You can read a lot more on this on Jeff's
site
www.stealth316.com> My
91 Stealth won't always start. It has juice to the pump when you
turn
it
> over but the fuel pump doesn't kick in. If I put gas in
the starter body
> then it will start right up. Does anyone have a
suggestion?
It looks like you already found your problem. If there
is voltage at your
fuel pump but it isn't kicking in, then you must have a
bad pump.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 03:08:33
+0200
From: "Primus Motor AS" <
norbolig@online.no>
Subject: Team3S:
Wanted: sunroof for Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo
Hello,
I am
looking for a used complete Roof with Sunroof for a 1991 Dodge Stealth
R/T
twinturbo (probably the easiest place to find that would be in a
salvage
yard).
Comment: Still looking, will not give up that idea to
change the roof ...
:-)
Does anyone have any good tip as to who are
selling used Dodge Stealth
parts, and that are realiable and serious
?
Best regards,
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 20:59:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Dyno#'s
Chuck - I could not view the video of the 11-second pass
on either the
AAM site (not there) or the National Gathering site (also not
there).
And I see you have NOS in your car. Was this 11-second pass
made with
NOS or not? Remember, anything under certain times start to
require
things depending on who is running the event or where it is being
run.
That's all I'll say.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSent: Thursday, July
25, 2002 20:10
I have a TD05 set up with 18G turbo's and the 510WHP was
at 20 PSI of
boost.
If you wish to see all my other modifications
go to the AAM web page and
click on Chuck's Car. The other comment
that was made by some on this
forum
was that these turbo's could not make
power down low in the RPM range so
therefore were no good for drag
racing. I would invite those folks to
go to
the AAM site and look
at the video's of Mike's two runs. You will see
Mike
smoking all
four tires coming off the line and all the way through
second
gear.
Rather impressive I would say. Regards Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 03:24:49
+0200
From: "Primus Motor AS" <
norbolig@online.no>
Subject: Team3S:
VS: Wanted: sunroof for Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo
I've already asked
M&S Recycling (I got a very good impression of them too -
fast and
correct feedback!), but unfortunately they did not have that in
stock
...
Roger
- -----Opprinnelig melding-----
Fra: Primus Motor AS
[mailto:norbolig@online.no]
Sendt: 26. juli 2002 03:09
Til:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stEmne:
Wanted: sunroof for Dodge Stealth R/T twinturbo
Hello,
I am
looking for a used complete Roof with Sunroof for a 1991 Dodge Stealth
R/T
twinturbo (probably the easiest place to find that would be in a
salvage
yard).
Comment: Still looking, will not give up that idea to
change the roof ...
:-)
Does anyone have any good tip as to who are
selling used Dodge Stealth
parts, and that are realiable and serious
?
Best regards,
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 20:13:20
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: New
Website
Hey guys, I finally got around to writing up the 60 service. All
the
info can be found at my new website at
www.kolosy.com. Right now the
only thing
that works is the 60k, but I'll be adding stuff as we speak,
so check back
often! :)
BTW, if someone sees a mistake in my write-up, or has any
other
questions/comments, feel free to contact me off-list.
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 20:16:58
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno#'s
> Remember, anything under certain times start
to require things
> depending on who is running the event or where it is
being run.
> That's all I'll say.
The car in question was built for
dragracing and has a full cage.
Regardless, it DID run the time.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 21:20:34
EDT
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S: dyno
#'s
I apollogize I thought Mike had posted the video on his site.
If you have
access to the 3si site it is posted there. I had the NOS
installed when I
had the 15G set up. It was disconnected when I went
to the TD05 setup and
currently I have no plans on using it again. The
134MPH run that Mike made
is without NOS. He also weight the car a
couple of weeks before the
gathering so the 3700 lbs weight has also been
verified.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 22:07:11
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Dyno#'s
Here we go again ... I never said it DIDN'T run the time
just that I
didn't get to see the video and when two people list two
different links
I was hoping at least one of them would have had the
video.
That is a separate item from the drag-racing issue. Don't
anyone dare
try to combine them.
It would be nice to see the cage,
harness, etc. listed as a mod then on
the car.
Thanks, Chuck, for
noting this run was without NOS and verifying the
weight.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
Sent:
Thursday, July 25, 2002 21:17
The car in question was built for
dragracing and has a full cage.
Regardless, it DID run the
time.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:08:12
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
dyno #'s
There is a bit of a pissing contest going on in the 3SI.org site
about the
streetability of the car --- Mike has removed the power steering
pump and
the A/C and revamped some of the metal work around the engine to
make
the car easier to work on. I noticed from pictures it is also missing
the
cruise control and wiper motors --- he claims he'll be re-installing the
wiper
motor.
Is the car stock bodied --- almost, any weight gains from
the removed
equipment is offset by the roll cage. I wouldn't consider it
very streetable
without the power steering and the A/C [ I'm a wimp ] I also
love the
cruise control. The car lacks some basic amenities but it is
certainly not
a stripped race car.
The 134 mph trap speeds imply 700+
hp at the flywheel --- not too shabby.
On a different run he had an 1/8 mile
speed about 4 mph faster than the
134 run, I'm not sure why the trap speeds
were down. I have no doubt that
the car is capable of low 10's at 140 [ his
60' times were awful ] if he's
willing to break the car to do it. Big HP and
a carbon carbon clutch is sure
to break the drivetrain [ see Jack's tutorial
on driveline shock ]
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
StealthCT@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
July 25, 2002 6:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: dyno #'s
> I apollogize I
thought Mike had posted the video on his site. If you have
> access
to the 3si site it is posted there. I had the NOS installed when I
> had the 15G set up. It was disconnected when I went to the TD05
setup and
> currently I have no plans on using it again. The 134MPH
run that Mike made
> is without NOS. He also weight the car a
couple of weeks before the
> gathering so the 3700 lbs weight has also
been verified.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 22:24:07
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: dyno #'s
Would like to see this vid myself... Could someone
post a link?.. I cant
seem to find it on
3si..
Thanks,
Scott
94VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 00:19:39
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Accel coils for Buick GN tested (was: Ignition upgrade questions)
Some
time ago I posted the results of my tests of Buick GN coils, but that
was on
the day when the list was very slow and some people did not get all
of the
emails. Let me re-post another version of that test report.
If I were to
start the ignition upgrades now, I would buy the DIS-4 first.
Then I would
shop for coils if they are still
necessary.
**************************************************
I
finished testing of the Accel ignition coils #140016. This is the
upgraded
coil pack for the GN Turbo. Sadly, they are not better than the 3S
stock
coils. :(
I tested and compared them to the stockers in four different
ways: butt
dyno, primary coil voltage waveform while driving, resistance,
and voltage
amplification.
The butt dyno did not see the difference.
I did not expect to see it
because I have spark plugs gapped at
0.032".
What I expected was a longer spark duration. Apparently, that did
not
happen either. I used my voltage divider and a laptop sound card to log
that voltage.
The primary coil resistance was the same as stock. The
secondary was lower,
which is likely to mean that the coils' turns ratio was
smaller.
I verified the voltage amplification by supplying a small AC
voltage to the
primary coil and reading it off of the secondary coil. The
secondary
voltage was lower on the GN coils.
I learned a lot of cool
stuff while playing with our ignition. My EE skills
smoothly advanced past
the pocket flash light level. ;-)
I am sending the coils back to Summit.
I will be driving with the stock
coils until I decide on an
upgrade.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 00:35:52
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pump pressure problem..
I solved the fuel pump pressure
problem last week. It was a mis-installed
or undersized fuel pump O-ring.
Read my report from 7/17/02 titled
"SOLVED!!! (Re: A bunch of Air/Fuel
problems)" in the archives.
The fuel system should hold pressure for at
least an hour after the car is
shut down. If it does not, then there is a
leak, either internal or external.
Philip
At 20:28 7/25/2002,
Rachel Allen wrote:
>I am having problems with the pressure in the fuel
pump. What kicks in the
>pump to build up
pressure?
>
>My 91 Stealth won't always start. It has juice to
the pump when you turn it
>over but the fuel pump doesn't kick in.
If I put gas in the starter body
>then it will start right up. Does
anyone have a suggestion?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 01:45:13
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Wide-Band O2 DIY
Just wanted to let everybody know that I ordered 2 kits
and 2 boards for
DIY wide-band O2 sensors. Go to
http://www.diy-wb.com for details. They
have a group buy now for those kits and boards. You can have your own
wide-band O2 for under $200. I bought just the kits and boards for now -
spent $40. If I become brave enough and solder everything together, then I
will buy the O2 sensors too. Those are Honda sensors and they are available
for ~$129.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 06:31:16
-0400
From: Danno <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS and Calipers: The End of the Story
Many of you helped me over
the last couple of months when I first
developed a problem with the ABS
coming on with braking for no apparent
reason. Many of you helped me
again as I worked through the problem and
ultimately arrived at a sticking
caliper.
To quickly sum, the ABS would kick in with even gentle
braking. The ABS
dash light did not come on - just that sickening
pumping feeling in the
brake pedal every time I'd approach a stop sign or red
light. Dealer
wanted me to put in a $2000 hydraulic pump. I
couldn't afford that so I
removed the fuse (which resolved all problems with
braking) and sat on
the problem.
Time came to do brakes and when I
tore down, the front driver's side
inboard pad was much more worn than the
outboard pad. I had a hard time
getting the inboard pistons to retract,
but ultimately they did. Rotors
were shot, so they got replaced along
with the pads. Rears were Ok, so
just pads there. All lines bled
per instructions on one of the 3000 web
sites (sorry, I can't give credit cuz
I can't remember which site I
visited.)
A month or two later, I had
warpage in the front left rotor (shimmy on
braking that seemed to be coming
from the front left). I tore the
caliper down and checked the pads and
they were doing the same thing
(inboard pad more worn than outboard). I
wrote to the list and we
talked about caliper rebuild.
The winner
suggestion was to lube the pins that hold the pads in place.
I had the rotor
turned, sanded and then lubed the pins and reinstalled
the old pads.
Shimmy gone. But guess what else disappeared???
I replaced the fuse in
the ABS system to check things out. Voila! No
more ABS
problems!
For want of a good cleaning which facilitated pad movement, I
resolved a
problem that would've cost thousands!! So I thought I should
pass this
along in case others might benefit from this
experience.
Again, my thanks to all who responded to my many
questions. Your
kindness in the face of my ignorance is much
appreciated. I'm a little
less ignorant than I was before!
- -
Dan
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 14:16:40
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
It is funny how some people's memory can play games
with them. :)
If Chuck is referring to my posts on 5/22/02, careful
reading of them will
note that I never mention any numbers were incorrect.
My comments were:
"It always amazes me to see numbers like these. AAM
ranks as perhaps the top
street tuner on the planet, even above Formula 1
teams!"
and
"Now here comes the "tuner of the planet" award. It
requires a phenomenal 0.33
BSFC to produce about 714 crank HP given the
above specs (assuming about 100
HP drivetrain loss)."
and
"The
dyno is correct right? The physics are well established right? Even
Formula
1 teams are tickled pink with a 0.35 BSFC. So AAM must be the best
street
tuner on the planet!"
And it appears my comments were close to being
correct. Using Patrick Hale's
formulas relating 1/4 performance and engine
braking horsepower available on
my web page below
http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htmor
using basic physical laws as explained on my web page that uses Jack T's
record as an example
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fwp.htmengine
bhp should be 700 or more for 1/4 mile runs over about 130 mph.
So to set
the record straight I never claimed any numbers were incorrect or
that the
dyno numbers were wrong. I simply pointed out that the BSFC must be
excellent for that level of power at such low airflow. AAM is a great tuner
(though best on the planet may be debatable).
What puzzles me is why
Chuck mentions Mike Mahaffey's impressive and record-
breaking runs as if
they somehow have anything to do with Chuck's car or
potential performance.
When Chuck run's 134 mph in the 1/4 mile I am sure we
will all be suitably
impressed. :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
StealthCT@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
July 25, 2002 4:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: DYNO #'s
It should be noted
that I posted some dyno #'s (610WHP) here a couple of
weeks ago. The
dyno #'s are about the same that Mike (AAM) got on his dyno
run on the AAM
dyno. There were several of you who quickly pointed out that
those
numbers had to be incorrect because no 3 liter engine could possibly be
making that kind of HP with the turbo's (TD05) that we are using. In
fact
you relied on Mr. Lucus's formula's to prove your point. Mike
(AAM) ran a 11
second quarter mile at a speed of 134 MPH in a car weighing
3700 LBS (without
Mike who weighs 200 LBS). Now would those who
questioned the dyno #s please
use your formula's and please give me an
estimate based on your calculations
of what the WHP is for Mike's car since
our dyno seems to be incorrect
according to your calculation.
Regards Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 07:30:48
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wide-Band O2 DIY
Good find --- I'll probably give that a try myself. The
kit looks complete
and easy to assemble and there motive seems altruistic
---- they can't
be making much if any profit on the kits. It would probably
be best to
have two kits one for each bank or maybe just two sensors and a
switch
to go between the two.
Have you checked on the digital display
???
Keep me [ us ] posted on your results
!!!
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
July 25, 2002 10:45 PM
Subject: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
> Just
wanted to let everybody know that I ordered 2 kits and 2 boards for
> DIY
wide-band O2 sensors. Go to
http://www.diy-wb.com for details. They
> have a group buy now for those kits and boards. You can have your own
> wide-band O2 for under $200. I bought just the kits and boards for now
-
> spent $40. If I become brave enough and solder everything together,
then I
> will buy the O2 sensors too. Those are Honda sensors and they
are available
> for ~$129.
>
> Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 11:17:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ABS and Calipers: The End of the Story
Congrats, Danno. My
boss' Eclipse had two rear calipers (single piston)
that were not working
well. The piston was fine but those calipers ride
on two pins on either
end and these had lost their grease and were
seized so the piston was pushing
the pas against the rotor but only one
side (I think the inboard side).
The rubber boot had failed (cracked,
sliced, etc.) on them so greasing again
was not the answer. I bought
some rebuilt ones from Tallahassee Mitsu
and have them downstairs now.
A new boot might have been cheaper but not as
easy and I'm not sure if
that would be fool-proof.
I don't have that
problem on my VR-4 since it has Big Reds up front and
the pads do not ride on
pins but are pushed toward the centerline of the
axle by a spring that clips
in place. The pads are free to move in and
out but I notice the
outboard pad from the track day (Porterfield R-4
race pads) is more worn than
the inboard so I might have a sticking
piston or need some more grease in
there or a rebuild on it.
Glad to know I might be on the right track also
and great job saving
$2,000.
You said the ABS would kick in when
stopping but the light would not
show up on the instrument cluster.
Correct me if I am wrong but it
never shows up on the instrument cluster when
braking. It only shows up
if there is something wrong with it. So
not seeing it while braking is
correct.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Danno
Sent: Friday, July
26, 2002 06:31
[snip]
To quickly sum, the ABS would kick in with
even gentle braking. The ABS
dash light did not come on - just that
sickening pumping feeling in the
brake pedal every time I'd approach a stop
sign or red light. Dealer
wanted me to put in a $2000 hydraulic
pump. I couldn't afford that so I
removed the fuse (which resolved all
problems with braking) and sat on
the problem.
The winner suggestion
was to lube the pins that hold the pads in place.
I had the rotor turned,
sanded and then lubed the pins and reinstalled
the old pads. Shimmy
gone. But guess what else disappeared???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 08:43:03
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch bearing squeeking....please help
I push down on the pedal
and can hear bad noises.......this is not
good I know. I got a few lines for
a kit set-up already but have
never done a FWD car...I got an NA. Should this
be left to the devil
or is it like doing a 60k? I don't mind paying 2-250 to
get it
done...is that resonable for labor?
please
help
bobk.
9399R/T....squeekie,squeekie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 12:53:24
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
DYNO #'s
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, July 26, 2002 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
> It is
funny how some people's memory can play games with them. :)
>
> If
Chuck is referring to my posts on 5/22/02, careful reading of them will
>
note that I never mention any numbers were incorrect. My comments
were:
>
> "It always amazes me to see numbers like these. AAM ranks
as perhaps the
top
> street tuner on the planet, even above Formula 1
teams!"
>
> and
>
> "Now here comes the "tuner of the
planet" award. It requires a phenomenal
0.33
> BSFC to produce about
714 crank HP given the above specs (assuming about
100
> HP drivetrain
loss)."
>
> and
>
> "The dyno is correct right? The
physics are well established right? Even
> Formula 1 teams are tickled
pink with a 0.35 BSFC. So AAM must be the best
> street tuner on the
planet!"
>
> And it appears my comments were close to being correct.
Using Patrick
Hale's
> formulas relating 1/4 performance and engine
braking horsepower available
on
> my web page below
>
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm>
>
or using basic physical laws as explained on my web page that uses
Jack
T's
> record as an example
>
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fwp.htm>
>
engine bhp should be 700 or more for 1/4 mile runs over about 130
mph.
>
> So to set the record straight I never claimed any numbers
were incorrect
or
> that the dyno numbers were wrong. I simply pointed
out that the BSFC must
be
> excellent for that level of power at such
low airflow. AAM is a great
tuner
> (though best on the planet may be
debatable).
>
> What puzzles me is why Chuck mentions Mike
Mahaffey's impressive and
record-
> breaking runs as if they somehow
have anything to do with Chuck's car or
> potential performance. When
Chuck run's 134 mph in the 1/4 mile I am sure
we
> will all be suitably
impressed. :)
>
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nice
dodge! No I'm not referring to Dodge/Chrysler ....
I think it's
obvious to all that the reason Chuck mentions Mike's record
breaking runs is
because they appear to fully back the numbers and
tests performed on his
dyno. This would be the same dyno that we
have seen several different
S/3Ks tested on - including Chucks.
It seems to me that your formulas,
scientific *theories* and
perpetual sceptism have now officially gone out the
window - in regards to
this issue and perhaps even the larger versus
smaller turbo issue/questions
where increased volume does indeed seem to be
playing a role
instead of lower temps only. I've seen credible evidence
of this
not only on our cars but this has also been yet again addressed
in
recent project writeups in SC and Turbo mag.
So - no you never
wrote exactly the words "numbers were incorrect or
that the dyno numbers were
wrong" but instead did write:
"It always amazes me to see numbers like
these. AAM ranks as perhaps the top
street tuner on the planet, even
above Formula 1 teams!"
and
"Now here comes the "tuner
of the planet" award. It requires a phenomenal
0.33
BSFC to produce
about 714 crank HP given the above specs (assuming about
100
HP
drivetrain loss)."
We can parse this out all day long a la Slick Willy
but any reasonable
reader understands the intent and meaning.
Or we
can just change the subject and pick a different car/setup so
we don't have
to admit the mark was missed .....
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 11:28:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Car still for sale...price reduced again
I sold some of the other
bits and pieces so I could bring the price
down some more. If I can
sell/trade the rest of the mods I will
bring the price down
again.
$10,000
This is my daily driver, never
raced.
Body is free from dings or scratches and paintwork is
clean.
Inside is very clean. I will email pictures to anyone
interested
since my website isn't working.
'92 Silver
3000GT VR-4
15g turbos < 10k miles
6-speed
conversion
K&N
Dynamic Racing upgraded ignition coils and
wires
2nd Gen front calipers/rotors
Goodridge braided brake
lines
All new underhood rubber pieces(hoses, motormounts,
etc)
New Clutch <5k miles
New OEM adjustable
shocks
18" Chrome 2nd gen wheels with brand new Kuhmo's
265/45-18
Clarion CD headunit and JBL 4-channel
amp
Rebuilt engine 12k miles ago
140k miles on
chassis
85k on '95 6-speed driveline
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 14:49:13
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
I just got my baby back after a week
of patient waiting. And even
though I have been driving a 1994 Eclipse
base model doesn't mean my
inputs are all out of whack. I got in my car
and started it up and
immediately could tell the difference the 3SX Motor
Mounts made. I
could feel the car idle. Almost as if you are
leaning against the hood
or front fender (quarter panel area) except I was in
the stock driver's
seat. Rev it up a little and I could feel it through
my back. What a
wonderful feeling.
I can also hear the engine
more now when pulling out in first and second
gear. Before all I heard
was the stock exhaust. Now I can feel and
hear it since there is more
getting transmitted through to the body. I
love it.
The big test
was cruising in 4th or 5th gear at 40, 50, or 60 mph.
Before, I would let off
the gas a little and get back on it a little
(not like WOT to off then WOT
again) but constant throttle then let off
then constant throttle.
Usually this was met with a thump feel as the
engine rocked in its four shot
motor mounts (one shot, two about half
shot, and the tranny one not all that
bad). Now when I let off the
throttle and get back on there is no feel
of engine moving around but
just the sound of the exhaust coming back up to
pressure and the feel of
the car gaining back those 2 mph it just lost.
That alone is almost
worth the 5.4 hours they charged in labor.
I will
take pictures tonight of the one easy one to see and the other by
the
battery. I can also take pictures of the stock mounts now that they
are
out of the car.
At idle the car used to be nice and subtle and
quiet. Now it feels
(inside the car) as if you are sitting in a Vette
or Camaro or Trans-Am
how those V-8 engines have that feel to them. I'm
not a pro in sitting
in these cars but it is quite a noticeable
difference. I can't get
enough of it to be honest.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 11:59:47
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wide-Band O2 DIY
wow, that sounds like a great little project. I
think i'm going to try
it as well. It would be great to have a
wideband on the car for optimum
tuning.
Just one question, after
looking briefly through, where do you get the
board from? what is
digikey? I know most of the parts are available
through radioshack,
but things like the display don't seem so straight
forward. any
suggestions as to how to incorporate the display?
Damon
Philip
V. Glazatov wrote:
> Just wanted to let everybody know that I ordered
2 kits and 2 boards for
> DIY wide-band O2 sensors. Go to
http://www.diy-wb.com for details. They
> have a group buy now for those kits and boards. You can have your own
> wide-band O2 for under $200. I bought just the kits and boards for now
-
> spent $40. If I become brave enough and solder everything together,
then
> I will buy the O2 sensors too. Those are Honda sensors and they
are
> available for ~$129.
>
> Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 19:49:15
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
> wow, that sounds like a great little
project. I
> think i'm going to try it as well. It would
be
> great to have a wideband on the car for optimum
>
tuning.
Yup, a wideband O2 would be nice to have. I'm ordering
the parts kit and PCB. I've seen this kit before, but I
think I'm
at the point in tuning where I could make
better use of the wideband
now.
> Just one question, after looking briefly through,
> where
do you get the board from? what is digikey?
> I know most of the
parts are available through
> radioshack, but things like the display
don't
> seem so straight forward. any suggestions as to
> how
to incorporate the display?
The guy who has the parts bundle also has
PCBs for
sale. DigiKey is a mail-order electronic parts retailer
like Radio Shack only with a much wider selection of
parts (and
typically cheaper).
For a display, initially you could just hook a
voltmeter
up to it and just remember what voltage corresponds to
your
A/F ratio target and tune to try to hit that
voltage. If a bunch of
people want simple displays I
might be willing to whack something
together. For mine
I am integrating the wideband sensor into my
virtual
gauge project that I'm already working on. Its
essentially
an LCD display that shows the most important
data for you to see when you
need it - with warning
LED's if some engine parameter is out of whack (ie:
O2
sensor reading low at WOT, boost exceeding your set
warning point,
etc.).
For starters though, a voltmeter would be sufficient.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 12:44:42
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wide-Band O2 DIY
At the bottom fo this page [
http://www.diy-wb.com/info.htm ] you
can
order the PC board and a parts kit. One components kit is $17, I
don't
see a price for the PC board but Philip said he got 2 kits and 2
boards
for $40 --- that may be a group buy price but cheap at twice the
price.
The readout is a seperate project --- you can use a voltmeter for
the
barebones kit.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@mefas.com>
To: "Philip V.
Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Cc: <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday, July
26, 2002 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
> wow,
that sounds like a great little project. I think i'm going to try
>
it as well. It would be great to have a wideband on the car for optimum
> tuning.
>
> Just one question, after looking briefly
through, where do you get the
> board from? what is digikey?
I know most of the parts are available
> through radioshack, but things
like the display don't seem so straight
> forward. any suggestions
as to how to incorporate the display?
>
> Damon
>
>
> Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>
> > Just wanted to let
everybody know that I ordered 2 kits and 2 boards for
> > DIY
wide-band O2 sensors. Go to
http://www.diy-wb.com for details. They
> > have a group buy now for those kits and boards. You can have your
own
> > wide-band O2 for under $200. I bought just the kits and boards
for now -
> > spent $40. If I become brave enough and solder
everything together, then
> > I will buy the O2 sensors too. Those are
Honda sensors and they are
> > available for ~$129.
> >
> > Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 17:16:06
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
The links to the boards and kits pages are at
http://www.diy-wb.com/info.htmThe
parts kits are at
http://jubjub.mine.nu/wbparts.htmlThe
boars are available at
http://208.37.117.207/wborder.html.
I do not
remember where I saw the board price, but they were about $4 a
piece. Click
around the website and you may find it.
I have not
considered the display options yet. I will be concerned with
this only after
I assemble everything and make it work.
Also check
http://www.aces.edu/~gparmer/efi/temp/wb/guide.html.
This is the
"enhanced" guide to the DIY-WB.
DigiKey is an electronics
supply company
www.digikey.com, just like
Radio
Shack, but you will not need to use them because there are part kits
are
already available.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 17:02:24
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wide-Band O2 DIY
This may be a dumb question.
What are
the advantages to having a wide band O2 sensor setup?
Doug
92 Stealth
RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#908
***************************************