Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, July 25
2002 Volume 01 : Number
907
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Jul 2002 08:35:40 -0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
I have been told it cures the
"BAD" wheel hop as well....it is on my
list of things to do but I do not own
a set...yet.
bobk.
9399r/t
- ---- Original Message
----
From:
dschilberg@pobox.comTo:
team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
3SX Performance motor mounts
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:36:15
-0400
>I will let y'all know. I don't do high-RPM launches or
drag runs so
>it
>is less of a shock when you run in all 3rd gear
for 1.5 miles of a
>road
>course. Good points though,
Matt. We all know that once parts get
>upgraded then more oomph
starts going through and now other (weaker)
>parts are going to break so
it is an endless cycle once started.
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
mjannusch@attbi.com>Sent:
Wednesday, July 24, 2002 10:16
>
>I considered these also, but
decided against - partly
>because of time constraints in putting my car
back
>together and partly because I wasn't sure I wanted to
>increase the amount of shock to the drivetrain during
>gear
changes and launches. (I've already grenaded a
>transfercase, don't
wanna do that again - as parts for
>those still aren't
available).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 15:36:33
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
> Actually Matt this would
possibly help prevent
> another tranx case from going to pieces.
The
> tranny and engine are what generally moves under
> hard
accel/deccel this twisting tends to put
> strain on its belhousing and the
transfer case.
> If you note the transfer case appears to be the
>
only part of the front driveline line components
> directly bolted to a
crossmember (no rubber
> mounts/bushings to allow
movement)
Hmmm. The transfercase isn't bolted to a crossmember,
or I'm not understanding you right. It is bolted up
straight to
the transaxle. The transaxle is mounted
solid to the motor, so all
these components are a solid
piece. The part I broke in my
transfercase was the
input gear itself that's on the input sleeve in the
transfercase. Its a really beefy gear, I'm surprised
that I broke
it. I could see weaker motor mounts
causing issues with the U-joint
between the rear
driveshaft and the transfercase, but other than that it
shouldn't really be a problem. The transfercase
shouldn't get
torqued on directly, other than by the
force of changing the direction of
power from the input
to the output.
Having no movement available in
the driveline by having
solid motor mounts is going to torque on components
in
the tranny a lot more during shock loading than having
mounts that
have some give to them. It should reduce
wheel hop, if you are getting
that (my car is too heavy
to do that ;-).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 12:32:35
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust manifold
Thanks, Jeff, for the pictures. The part
in question on mine is the
Right or Front exhaust manifold on this
page. The crack is where the
single pipe comes up from the turbo and
turns that 90-degree angle and
right about where the center of the first
cylinder (cylinder #5 I
believe)exhaust channel joins it. On the
"Right/Front bottom" picture
you can see where the first cylinder joins and
has that weld. Right
below (in this picture) that point is the
crack. In reality it is right
above this since this part is flipped
upside down for the picture. And
only about 1-1.5 cm right
now.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-exhmans.htmAmazingly
I have someone looking in their parts bin for this part but I
know the dealer
price is too high so I'll see what they are adding in.
Maybe that are
including labor, etc. Same part from Tallahassee Mitsu
(MD165689) is
$158. $160 to $1,300. That is one heck of a mark-up.
=)
- --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:17:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Underdrive pulley
Till today...
Not that it could
happen, but the fact remains that they are fully capable
of causing
damage.
Ye cannot change the laws of physics..laws of physics..laws of
physics..
- -Name that tune.
On Wed, 24 Jul 2002, Roger Gerl
wrote:
> Till today there are no bad reports of any UDP on our cars
known. This lead
> me also to use one and I also have no
problems.
> AFAIK, also Buschur sell a dampened one.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> At 07:05 24.07.2002
-0400, Furman, Russell wrote:
> >There are mixed reviews on an
UNDAMPENED crank pulley however, Extreme
> >Motorsports sells a
DAMPENED one for our cars which would calm alot of
>
>critics...... I personally would never use an underdrive crank
pulley
> >damnpened or otherwise, due to the slight loss of voltage
across the board
> >on the car (more strain battery)
>
>
> >the link to what I am talking about is below, scroll all the
way down to the
> >bottom of the page.
>
>http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/engine.htm
> ><
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/engine.htm>
***
Got
Brakes? Need better brakes?
Send Email to:
orders@speedtoys.com with any inquiries.
(only this addr)
Reseller oppourtunities available.
***
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 11:33:22
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
I've had my 3SX mounts (replaced
all my mounts with them) for a few
months now and I am very happy with them.
I also went to a lightweight
flywheel and was worried about drivability
with both, but it is fine!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of ek2mfg
Sent: Wednesday, July
24, 2002 8:36 AM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
3SX Performance motor mounts
I have been told it cures the "BAD" wheel
hop as well....it is on my
list of things to do but I do not own a
set...yet.
bobk.
9399r/t
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
dschilberg@pobox.comTo:
team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
3SX Performance motor mounts
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:36:15
-0400
>I will let y'all know. I don't do high-RPM launches or
drag runs so
>it
>is less of a shock when you run in all 3rd gear
for 1.5 miles of a
>road
>course. Good points though,
Matt. We all know that once parts get
>upgraded then more oomph
starts going through and now other (weaker)
>parts are going to break so
it is an endless cycle once started.
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
mjannusch@attbi.com>Sent:
Wednesday, July 24, 2002 10:16
>
>I considered these also, but
decided against - partly
>because of time constraints in putting my car
back
>together and partly because I wasn't sure I wanted to
>increase the amount of shock to the drivetrain during
>gear
changes and launches. (I've already grenaded a
>transfercase, don't
wanna do that again - as parts for
>those still aren't
available).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:44:03
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
3SX Performance motor mounts
I also have the 3SX mounts [ well three of
the four anyway ], I'll replace the
fourth when I pull the engine. The mounts
and the lightweight flywheel allow
a lot of vibration at idle --- it feels
kind of like a motorcycle --- as soon as
you rev it up a little all feelings
of vibration go away.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
To:
"'ek2mfg'" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>; <
dschilberg@pobox.com>;
<>
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 11:33 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3SX
Performance motor mounts
> I've had my 3SX mounts (replaced all my
mounts with them) for a few
> months now and I am very happy with them. I
also went to a lightweight
> flywheel and was worried about
drivability with both, but it is fine!
>
> Matt
Nelson
> 1994 RT TT
>
BlackLight@Planetice.Net>
www.BlackLight.5u.com>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of ek2mfg
> Sent:
Wednesday, July 24, 2002 8:36 AM
> To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
team3S@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
>
>
> I have been told
it cures the "BAD" wheel hop as well....it is on my
> list of things to do
but I do not own a set...yet.
>
> bobk.
> 9399r/t
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From:
dschilberg@pobox.com> To:
team3S@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
> Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:36:15
-0400
>
> >I will let y'all know. I don't do high-RPM
launches or drag runs so
> >it
> >is less of a shock when you
run in all 3rd gear for 1.5 miles of a
> >road
>
>course. Good points though, Matt. We all know that once parts
get
> >upgraded then more oomph starts going through and now other
(weaker)
> >parts are going to break so it is an endless cycle once
started.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
mjannusch@attbi.com> >Sent:
Wednesday, July 24, 2002 10:16
> >
> >I considered these also,
but decided against - partly
> >because of time constraints in putting
my car back
> >together and partly because I wasn't sure I wanted to
> >increase the amount of shock to the drivetrain during
>
>gear changes and launches. (I've already grenaded a
>
>transfercase, don't wanna do that again - as parts for
> >those
still aren't available).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:54:14
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
Either I really don't notice
that motorcycle feel, or it just isn't
enough to bother me at all, either
way, I personally do not experience
this enough for me to even mention it.
Maybe it will go away when you
install that last solid motor
mount?
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 24, 2002 1:44 PM
To: BlackLight;
team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
3SX Performance motor mounts
I also have the 3SX mounts [ well three of
the four anyway ], I'll
replace the fourth when I pull the engine. The mounts
and the
lightweight flywheel allow a lot of vibration at idle --- it feels
kind
of like a motorcycle --- as soon as you rev it up a little all
feelings
of vibration go
away.
Jim Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
To:
"'ek2mfg'" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>; <
dschilberg@pobox.com>;
<>
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 11:33 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3SX
Performance motor mounts
> I've had my 3SX mounts (replaced all my
mounts with them) for a few
> months now and I am very happy with them. I
also went to a lightweight
> flywheel and was worried about
drivability with both, but it is fine!
>
> Matt
Nelson
> 1994 RT TT
>
BlackLight@Planetice.Net>
www.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 15:05:09
-0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
3SX Performance motor mounts
I've got the 3SX mounts (with a harder than
normal compound) and a Fidanza
flywheel. It does kinda feel like a motorcycle
now that you mention it.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
11.82@116.1 on 93 octane
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>; <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
July 24, 2002 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3SX Performance motor
mounts
> I also have the 3SX mounts [ well three of the four anyway ],
I'll replace
the
> fourth when I pull the engine. The mounts and the
lightweight flywheel
allow
> a lot of vibration at idle --- it feels
kind of like a motorcycle --- as
soon as
> you rev it up a little all
feelings of vibration go
away.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 17:29:45
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust manifold
I just replaced my front exhaust manifold
myself. Mine had a crack that
went almost all the way around the main
pipe between where the #5 and #3
cylinders join it. None of my nuts on
the manifold itself were seized but
one on the turbo was. The main
challenge for me was just getting to the
nuts. I had to use a squeeze
wrench for several of the nuts. The most
difficult one was the one on
the far left that has a bracing bracket
attached to it. It took about
45 minutes just to take that one nut off.
If you do it yourself, you will
have to remove the front turbo. Just follow
the proceedures on the 3S
web page. I didn't have to remove my radiator as
the instructions
suggested. I just removed the driver's side fan.
$1,300 is very
excessive. I'm betting they just don't want to hassle with
it so they
gave you an outrageous estimate hoping you would either pay it
or
leave. I'll estimate that it took me about 15 hours total to remove
my old
manifold and install the new one. That was as I was taking my
time and
trying to do everything right. A professional shop should be
able to do it
in less time than that.
I bought my manifold from
Libertyville Mitsu for about the same price as you
were quoted. They
sent me a cool Mitsubishi audio CD with it too.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 21:45:32
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust manifold
At 20:29 7/24/2002, dakken wrote:
>If you
do it yourself, you will have to remove the front turbo. Just
follow
>the proceedures on the 3S web page. I didn't have to remove
my radiator as
>the instructions suggested. I just removed the
driver's side fan.
To remove the turbo you will still have to drain the
coolant. That means
that removing the radiator is just four bolts, two
clamps, and three
electrical connectors away. Removing it would give you
more elbow room to
work on the manifold heat shields, oil and coolant lines
and the O2 sensor
housing. Much easier, IMHO, than removing just the fan and
then working in
a tight space trying not to damage the radiator
fins.
Flash, if are planning to do it yourself, it's not an easy task.
It's like
changing the spark plugs ten times, except half of the bolts won't
turn and
sometimes break off. You'd better start it soon so that you could
make it
to the NG. Let me know (privately) if you are
coming.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 20:02:11
-0600
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Hey guys,
Need some advice. The engine
overhaul is in process and I was looking to
upgrade my turbos at this
time. I contacted Majestic Turbo and they said
that they could turn my
9b's into 17G's for $700 a pop. Is this right?
Would I be getting some
crappy hybrid turbo with tons of lag due to
inadequate part selection? Would
this be a decent path to take for a ~$1500
budget? Walking in the dark here
so if someone could shed some light it
would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
Gabe Simoes
TEAM EXCELR8ED
-
-President
'92 Black Stealth RTTT
- - Intake & Exhaust @
16psi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 19:23:30
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
9b to 17G?
For the price that is really good, but that's depending upon
truly what
you're getting. I know that there's group buys on the 3si
board now for
15Gs for about $1700 or so. I don't know much about the
17Gs.
I have the GT347s (GTPro) and love them to death. Depending
upon what
you want, and how far you're going to push your motor, then these
are
what I'd recommend. They're good for up to 20PSI to redline and I
see
maybe 200RPM increase in lag. Barely noticable. They're
sized in
between the 13G and the 15G. I believe they cost around
$1600.
So, unfortunately, I can't answer your question, just give you
some good
advice and results from what I've found.
Good
luck
Damon
Gabe Simoes wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
>
Need some advice. The engine overhaul is in process and I was looking
to
> upgrade my turbos at this time. I contacted Majestic Turbo and
they said
> that they could turn my 9b's into 17G's for $700 a pop.
Is this right?
> Would I be getting some crappy hybrid turbo with tons of
lag due to
> inadequate part selection? Would this be a decent path to
take for a ~$1500
> budget? Walking in the dark here so if someone could
shed some light it
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Gabe Simoes
>
> TEAM EXCELR8ED
>
-President
>
> '92 Black Stealth RTTT
> - Intake &
Exhaust @ 16psi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 22:19:16
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust manifold
M&S Recycling came back to quote the front
exhaust manifold at $50 not
including S&H. Now that sounds like
something I can do myself. Soak
the bolts a few times each night then
drive real hard one day and get
them all heated up and try to crack loose the
turbo bolts. If those are
loose then maybe the manifold ones will be
okay. Stay tuned is all I
can say.
And Philip, I'll be at Pocono
instead of the National Gathering. Sorry
everyone. I'd love to do
the course up there but helping a friend and
his Ferrari 512TR at the Pocono
long course certainly has its perks too
(and it doesn't damage my car any by
doing so). There will be other
times.
I'm just wondering how
much the crack in the manifold was increasing
underhood temps too. I
took some readings but can not recall if that
was before the crack (since I
didn't know it was there). I can take
some now though and
report.
You said you need to remove the turbo (or that makes it easier)
but can
the coolant and oil lines stay attached or do you need to
disconnect
those too and drain the coolant and then drain the oil? I'm
hoping to
squeak by without removing the manifold (as a first pass) and
somehow
temporarily (for a week or three) patching it) so we'll see.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002
20:30
I just replaced my front exhaust manifold myself. Mine had a
crack that
went almost all the way around the main pipe between where the #5
and #3
cylinders join it. None of my nuts on the manifold itself were
seized
but one on the turbo was. The main challenge for me was just
getting to
the nuts. I had to use a squeeze wrench for several of the
nuts. The
most difficult one was the one on the far left that has a
bracing
bracket attached to it. It took about 45 minutes just to take
that one
nut off.
If you do it yourself, you will have to remove the
front turbo. Just
follow the proceedures on the 3S web page. I
didn't have to remove my
radiator as the instructions suggested. I just
removed the driver's
side fan.
$1,300 is very excessive. I'm
betting they just don't want to hassle
with it so they gave you an outrageous
estimate hoping you would either
pay it or leave. I'll estimate that it
took me about 15 hours total to
remove my old manifold and install the new
one. That was as I was
taking my time and trying to do everything
right. A professional shop
should be able to do it in less time than
that.
I bought my manifold from Libertyville Mitsu for about the same
price as
you were quoted. They sent me a cool Mitsubishi audio CD with
it too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 20:52:47
-0600
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Thanks Damon and Alan,
I was seriously
considering 13g's, but for the price I will probably go
witht the 17G
conversions. Even if they don't flow insane amounts of air,
and as long
as they aren't too laggy, I'll be happy. Forged pistons,
550cc
injectors, denso pump, S-AFC, data logger, and port matched everything
is in
the works, so hopefully things should be ok for about 12 psi on the
street.
(correct me if I am wrong). No open drag strip in Albuquerque so I
won't be
crankin' it up unfortunately.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Damon Rachell [mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 24, 2002 8:24 PM
To:
stealthdevil@netzero.netCc: Team
3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
For the price that is really good,
but that's depending upon truly what
you're getting. I know that
there's group buys on the 3si board now for
15Gs for about $1700 or so.
I don't know much about the 17Gs.
I have the GT347s (GTPro) and love them
to death. Depending upon what
you want, and how far you're going to
push your motor, then these are
what I'd recommend. They're good for up
to 20PSI to redline and I see
maybe 200RPM increase in lag. Barely
noticable. They're sized in
between the 13G and the 15G. I
believe they cost around $1600.
So, unfortunately, I can't answer your
question, just give you some good
advice and results from what I've
found.
Good luck
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 21:47:30
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Gabe...
I think someone is pulling your
leg(s). Even if it was twice the cost (which would be more likely) I don't think
this can physically be done. Having had my 15Gs rebuilt by TEC, I asked about
the ability to upgrade to 17Gs. They told me that, not only are the impeller
wheels a different diameter, but the housings are different. I can't imagine
what someone would do (or how) to enlarge the internals (housing, shafts,
bushings, wheels, etc.) to make a 17G out of a stock 9B. I suggest you contact
TEC and ask them.
Major caution advised...I just read an article in Auto
Week about the Hennessey Viper operation that reminded me of something we went
through with 3KGTs a few years ago. Lots of promises, cars sitting in pieces,
parts taken from one car and put on another. Major rebuilds requested and paid
for, only to find that many of the stock parts were still there. I saved the
article, it would certainly be an eye-opener for anyone who was going to spend
over $100K on upgrades, only to find their car in parts a year later, or find
that the parts they paid for didn't end up in their car. Remember, if you don't
do the work, or know the person who does (and trust them with your favorite car)
they can tell you they put anything into the turbos and you won't know what's
really in there unless you take them apart yourself to check (or have the specs
for 17Gs and check them before they are installed).
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gabe Simoes
[mailto:stealthdevil@netzero.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 7:02
PM
To: Team 3s
Subject: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Hey guys,
Need
some advice. The engine overhaul is in process and I was looking
to
upgrade my turbos at this time. I contacted Majestic Turbo and they
said
that they could turn my 9b's into 17G's for $700 a pop. Is this
right?
Would I be getting some crappy hybrid turbo with tons of lag due
to
inadequate part selection? Would this be a decent path to take for a
~$1500
budget? Walking in the dark here so if someone could shed some light
it
would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Gabe
Simoes
TEAM EXCELR8ED
- -President
'92 Black Stealth RTTT
-
- Intake & Exhaust @ 16psi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 01:46:29
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 9b to 17G?
Agreed. Recent article from mag I cant remember on
turbo upgrades went
over almost everything I could think to ask (or wonder).
They even did a
tid bit on upgrading stock turbos and / or turbos with too
small of a
housing. Didn't pay too much attention to most of it, but
basically
shoving all the goodies into a tiny housing can lead to disaster.
Maybe
it doesn't transfer heat appropriately, or a certain sidewall gets
too
thin, whatever, they said to watch out for that kind of
thing.
Especially if you pay for porting and clipping, make sure they do
it was
another theme stated, or if they say that there building the turbos
with
bearings that they are real bearings, stuff to that
justification.
Cheers!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 08:03:15
-0700
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
Got the clutch put in at Clutch House n
Citrus Heights. They do good work
there. Ray, the manager, is a
really down to earth guy. It may be time to
do a little work on the
old girl now.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 11:25:03
-0400
From: "Victor L. Berrios" <
vlberrio@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: PREGUNTA (Another short Spanish-English project) :-)
Hi
folks:
It's been a while since my last post (last year maybe?), but I still
on the
3Si community. I'm more active in the 3SI Board. Hope all of you
are doing
well.
This guy (The Wolf) is asking if the 3KGTs can enter
in "Formula 1" races??
I honestly don't know the answer. I'm more into
dragging.
Regards,
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
FIPK, DN
Y-pipe & IC lines, Blitz SBC-i-d, HKS SSBOV, No Pre-cats, Custom
Dual
Cannon Exhaust, Indigo lights, Apexi S-AFC, 550's, Supra fuel Pump,
Bozz
Performance lip, Veilside Wing.
Saludos "Lobo":
Te habla "Samson"
desde Puerto Rico. "Bob" de "Team3S" me pidió que te
contestara esta pregunta
p. q. ellos no hablan mucho español.
Yo les voy a referir la pregunta
nuevamente, p. q. sinceramente no sé la
contestación. Yo estoy en "dragueo"
de calle solamente.
Tengo un 3000GT VR-4 del '96 con algunas
modificaciones pero es
completamente de calle. Es el que uso a diario para
viajar a mi trabajo.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Team3S-Admin
[mailto:Team3S@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 9:18 PM
To:
Victor L. Berrios
Subject: PREGUNTA (Another short Spanish-English project)
:-)
Hey, Victor,
"The Wolf" admires Mitsubishis... That's as
far as I got! :-) Do your
thing, please!
Regards, and
thanks,
Forrest
- -----------------------------------
Wed, 24
Jul 2002 07:17:01 -0700
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From: "GERMAN SOPLIN AGUIRRE"
<
lobosolitario88@hotmail.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
PREGUNTA
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 14:17:00 +0000
Mime-Version:
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FILETIME=[C7255A50:01C2331C]
ESTIMADOS
SEÑORES DEL EQUIPO 3S:
soy un admirador de los mitsubishi, y quisiera saber
si mitsubishi entraria
en formula 1, agradesco su atencion, y como sujerencia
le digo que seria
mejor un formulario en español, en su pagina de nuevos
mienbros, me despido
de ustedes, hasta en otra
oprotunidad.
ATENTAMENTE
EL LOBO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 18:23:31
EDT
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S: DYNO
#'s
It should be noted that I posted some dyno #'s (610WHP) here a couple
of
weeks ago. The dyno #'s are about the same that Mike (AAM) got on
his dyno
run on the AAM dyno. There were several of you who quickly
pointed out that
those numbers had to be incorrect because no 3 liter engine
could possibly be
making that kind of HP with the turbo's (TD05) that we are
using. In fact
you relied on Mr. Lucus's formula's to prove your
point. Mike (AAM) ran a 11
second quarter mile at a speed of 134 MPH
in a car weighing 3700 LBS (without
Mike who weighs 200 LBS). Now
would those who questioned the dyno #s please
use your formula's and please
give me an estimate based on your calculations
of what the WHP is for Mike's
car since our dyno seems to be incorrect
according to your
calculation. Regards Chuck
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#907
***************************************