Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 24
2002 Volume 01 : Number
906
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Jul 2002 08:17:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aftermarket Radiator Hoses...
Could be the water pump. If
you have a slow leak
there, the heat from the engine will evaporate
the
coolant before it finds a way out.
Glenn
'93 vr-4
- ---
cody <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
wrote:
> Anyone have a rundown on where I can find a set???
>
> I have a slow coolant leak and am yet to find it...
> Gonna
replace the
> hoses cause they are old... Anyone have any
other
> ideas where to
> look... I haven't seen a puddle of water or
anything
> on the ground where
> I park...
>
> I had
the system pressure tested, but not sure if
> they left it under
>
pressure long enough, or if maybe the motor wasn't
> hot enough to
make
> any small leak apparent... The cap is brand new...
> I
do have a
> question, and that is... if when the coolant
> expands,
it flows into the
> overflow tank, is there a possibility its not
>
getting sucked back in???
>
> -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 09:27:03
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Anti-sway bar is IN ... (noise gone)
On the suggestion of a
few people, I checked the brake dust shield on the
right front wheel when I
got home yesterday. It looked ok and not to be
interfering with
anything. However, I reached through the spokes of the
wheel and pushed
the shield toward the center of the car in a few different
spots using
probably 20-30lbs of force. I felt it move a little.
No more
noise. Drove it about 40mi last night and made several moderate
left
turns. Still no noise. Yay!
Maybe I did smack the dust shield
when I was under the car fiddling with the
sway bar. I know I
definitely smacked a few things in frustration, but I
tried to make sure they
weren't anything ON the car :-)
Initial impression (still haven't had a
chance to drive it hard) is that the
suspension definitely feels
tighter. From others' (speculative?) comments,
I expected that the ride
quality would not change at all. It hasn't changed
drastically, but
there's definitely a little more "road feel" (vibration)
transmitted to the
chassis. I kinda like the feedback, but it is one step
further away
from a GT car and one step closer to a sports car. This may be
more due
to the urethane bushings on the new anti-sway bar rather than
larger bar
itself though. The car definitely has more grip in corners, but
I
haven't really noticed the car being "flatter" in the corners. Again,
I
haven't pushed it yet (haha, you get it? "pushed!" ICMU). There
is a
little more force on the steering wheel trying to center the wheel
while
cornering, but this isn't nearly the difference in steering input that
a
front strut tower brace makes. That goes in next week (my old TEC one
got
bent when I wrecked my black car).
Thanks guys,
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4 with Saner front anti-sway bar and no weird suspension
noises
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 12:29:34
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: trailer wiring harness problem - to pull VR4
Dear
Friends,
I am trying to find a trailer wiring harness for a 2002 Land
Rover Discovery
so that I can pull a car hauler with my VR4 onboard.
The Discovery was sold
with a towing package, but no harness. The harness is
backordered at the
dealer with no expected time for supply. I have
tried NAPA, same answer,
Land Rover customer service, same answer, and UHaul,
no answer. Several
places are telling me that without an appropriate
"drop compensator"
splicing in a wiring harness will blow every light bulb in
the SUV. I
should've bought a pickup truck.
Any
suggestions?
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 13:17:13
-0500
From: "Jason" <
jason_peltier@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power/Eco switch on N/A
In addition to my IAC motor and A/C
problems, the other day, my power/eco
switch made a loud pop and
flipped over to eco. Now it rocks just a
little,
but it won't
engage into power. WTF? Did the spring break? Do I need
a
new switch? How do you get in there? I took off the ring
around the ATX
gearshift but couldn't tell what to do next. Do I
go in thru the side of
the console? Could this be a safety
measure for when the IAC goes out?
tia
Jason
(92es)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 17:05:19
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
-
----------snip------------->
> Just for the record, I use Mobil 1 10W30
and I really am not affiliated with
*any* company of *any* sort. :) I
wouldn't mind trying Amsoil or Royal Purple.
But with six 5-qt bottles of
Mobil 1 left on my shelf (WalMart sale) and only
driving ~4K miles per year,
it will be a few years before I need to buy oil.
-
----------------------------->
Same deal here - ~4k miles a year,
using Mobil-1 10W30. As soon as I started
using Mobil (after an engine
oil flush) the occasional lifter tick in my 94
Stealth vanished
forever. With Costco and Price Club selling Mobil-1 at $20
for 6 pints,
I'll probably never switch oils, but I admit to being curious
about Amsoil's
outrageous claims. I'm more than a bit "leery" of a company
that uses
MLM (multi-level-marketing) like they do, with independent dealers
and the
like... Amsoil set up several hundred websites, all singing their
oil's
praises as if they were "independent labs" (they're NOT). The FTC
has
been investigating Amsoil's (and their dealers') marketing practices
since
~1995, so I think I'll wait until someone I trust does a real
comparison. "If
something *sounds* too good to be true, it usually
is..." Caveat Emptor...
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 17:27:58
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
Well now Mr. Forrest...
While
I'm not an advocate of pyramid schemes either, and don't buy from
Amway or
similar companies, I have to wonder how it is that you buy your
motor oil in
PINTS? :-)
BTW...I used Castrol 10-30w synthetic for
years, have since switched to
Mobil One 5-50w synthetic. Personally, I think
the key is changing the
oil and filter every 2,500 miles, regardless of brand
or viscosity
(within reason, no flames about using 90w gear oil in my oil
pan
please).
Looking forward...Chris
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 17:56:11
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
> Well
now Mr. Forrest...
> While I'm not an advocate of pyramid schemes either,
and don't buy from
Amway or similar companies, I have to wonder how it is
that you buy your motor
oil in PINTS? :-)
-
------snip------------->
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
- ------snip------------->
With
Costco and Price Club selling Mobil-1 at $20 for 6 pints...
-
------snip------------->
Yes, Brother Chris - I stand (sit?)
corrected... I meant $20 for 6 Quarts.
Duh...
:-)
Thanks,
Forrest
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 19:31:54
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
When I got my car, I immediately put
Amsoil Series 2000 0W30 in it. I had no
idea what the previous owner had used
and it was the middle of winter. I ran
the Amsoil for several oil changes but
was on a 5,200 mile road trip and had
to do a change in Georgia. Went to
Wal-Mart for the 5 quart Mobil 1 10W30
deal and did the change. Drove to
Texas and back up to Montana. When I first
got the car, I had heard lifter
tick occasionally but only when really cold
or something. With the Mobil 1,
it was constant.
Back to the Amsoil, but this time to 10W30. No lifter
tick unless I'm a
quart low. Now that I can deal with, almost as an
indicator, an "idiot
ticker".
MLM has never made me any money
personally so I'm as pessimistic as everyone
else when it comes to that type
of distribution. But I'm a convinced user of
the product, not a
seller.
Anyway, I just don't like hearing my car sound like a time bomb
so I use
whatever avoids that symptom.
- --
Paul/.
95 black
3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
on 7/23/02 6:05 PM, Bob Forrest at
bf@bobforrest.com scribbled:
>
Same deal here - ~4k miles a year, using Mobil-1 10W30. As soon as I
started
> using Mobil (after an engine oil flush) the occasional lifter
tick in my 94
> Stealth vanished forever. With Costco and Price Club
selling Mobil-1 at $20
> for 6 pints, I'll probably never switch oils, but
I admit to being curious
> about Amsoil's outrageous claims. I'm
more than a bit "leery" of a company
> that uses MLM
(multi-level-marketing) like they do, with independent dealers
> and the
like... Amsoil set up several hundred websites, all singing their
>
oil's praises as if they were "independent labs" (they're NOT). The FTC
has
> been investigating Amsoil's (and their dealers') marketing practices
since
> ~1995, so I think I'll wait until someone I trust does a real
comparison. "If
> something *sounds* too good to be true, it usually
is..." Caveat Emptor...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 18:49:12
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 94 VR-4 Not Holding boost
Check the vacuum hose going to your
BOV. I know when I used a vacuum pump
to keep the BOV open, the most
boost I got was between 3 to 4 psi. Maybe
the Greddy Type S will fix
the problem.
If it will be a while before you get the new BOV then build
an intake
pressure tester from Jeff's site,
www.stealth316.com .
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 19:02:30
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 94 VR-4 Not Holding boost
One more thing,
If you know
your intake has no leaks then you can test the waste gate
solenoids.
Connect your vacuum line from the Y pipe directly to the waste
gate
solenoids. One way to do this is just to block off both hoses going
to
the stock boost solenoid. No boost solenoid or aftermarket boost
controller
should be functioning. You should see 5 to 7 psi of
boost. If you see that
much boost, then you will know your waste gate
solenoids are good.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 23:02:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Speedtoys Business Notice.
Speedtoys.Com is now a TX
business. :)
CA orders no longer carry sales tax, however all TX
orders will.
Sucks for a _few_, but it was a change I needed to
make.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 05:14:32
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Underdrive pulley
Whew. Finally get to report on the
car's 90k tune-up. The newest part
on the To Do sheet is the underdrive
pulley. This was my first time to
see it up close and personal with the
car off and then on (kids - wear
safety glasses when up close and personal
with moving engine parts). As
you recall I was having some squeaking
from the engine area when the car
would start up and then when the A/C was
turned on. If the A/C was
turned off it would stop
squeaking.
Well the diagnosis was the underdrive pulley which is sort of
a bushing
pressed into the metal wheel. Well where the bushing
(interior part)
touches the metal wheel it is starting to separate which
doesn't keep
things perfect, adds some tension to the belt, causes the
various wheels
to slip on the belt or the belt to want to try and force a
wheel out of
spinning true and starts the squeak.
This one was a neat
trick since it did seem like a belt dress-up kit
might have fixed it or
adjusting the tensioner pulley area to get things
back into
position.
So now I get to decide whether to let it go for another little
bit and
postpone paying for it now, let it go for (who knows) 10k-40k until
it
fails and bends a rod or something catastrophic, or upgrade it
with
something. I know I've seen mixed reviews on the underdrive
pulleys so
now I get to go read through the archives on that
subject.
Thanks to those who helped but this one blew us all away an it
is the
wheel itself starting to separate. About 98k on the car and I've
had is
since 42k.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
dschilberg@pobox.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 05:19:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust manifold
While my car was up in the air for the 90k
(continuing the last post) an
exhaust leak was heard in the front turbo
area. Expect the worst that
the turbo is leaking. Then sigh some
relief when a small crack is found
just above the 90-degree elbow from the
turbo to the headers/exhaust
manifold area.
So now it is time to find
either an M&S Recycling part, perhaps a used
stock one from someone who
has upgraded turbos, or replacing it with a
new part. I'm up for
getting it from a Recycling place or allowing
someone to sell me their stock
piece.
Contact me for more details on this as it kinda needs done soon so
it
can pass the emissions test and stop throwing on the Check Engine
light.
Did I mention that the A/C and radio are working like a
champ? Nothing
wrong with those parts. Gotta find the silver
lining sometimes.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
dschilberg@pobox.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 07:05:22
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Underdrive pulley
There are mixed reviews on an
UNDAMPENED crank pulley however, Extreme
Motorsports sells a DAMPENED one for
our cars which would calm alot of
critics...... I personally
would never use an underdrive crank pulley
damnpened or otherwise, due to the
slight loss of voltage across the board
on the car (more strain
battery)
the link to what I am talking about is below, scroll all
the way down to the
bottom of the page.
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/engine.htm<
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/engine.htm>
Russ
F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Wed 7/24/2002 5:14 AM
To:
team3S@team3s.com Cc:
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Underdrive pulley
Whew. Finally get to report on the
car's 90k tune-up. The newest part
on the To Do sheet is the
underdrive pulley. This was my first time to
see it up close and
personal with the car off and then on (kids - wear
safety glasses when up
close and personal with moving engine parts). As
you recall I was
having some squeaking from the engine area when the car
would start up and
then when the A/C was turned on. If the A/C was
turned off it would
stop squeaking.
Well the diagnosis was the underdrive pulley which is
sort of a bushing
pressed into the metal wheel. Well where the bushing
(interior part)
touches the metal wheel it is starting to separate which
doesn't keep
things perfect, adds some tension to the belt, causes the
various wheels
to slip on the belt or the belt to want to try and force a
wheel out of
spinning true and starts the squeak.
So now I get to
decide whether to let it go for another little bit and
postpone paying for
it now, let it go for (who knows) 10k-40k until it
fails and bends a rod or
something catastrophic, or upgrade it with
something. I know I've seen
mixed reviews on the underdrive pulleys so
now I get to go read through the
archives on that subject.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
dschilberg@pobox.com ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:16:35
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust manifold
The manifolds can easily be welded. No big
deal as we had the same on a
customers car.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.chAt 05:19 24.07.2002
-0400, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>While my car was up in the air for the 90k
(continuing the last post) an
>exhaust leak was heard in the front turbo
area. Expect the worst that
>the turbo is leaking. Then sigh
some relief when a small crack is found
>just above the 90-degree elbow
from the turbo to the headers/exhaust
>manifold area.
>
>So
now it is time to find either an M&S Recycling part, perhaps a
used
>stock one from someone who has upgraded turbos, or replacing it with
a
>new part. I'm up for getting it from a Recycling place or
allowing
>someone to sell me their stock piece.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:28:27
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Underdrive pulley
Till today there are no bad reports of
any UDP on our cars known. This lead
me also to use one and I also have no
problems.
AFAIK, also Buschur sell a dampened one.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.chAt 07:05 24.07.2002
-0400, Furman, Russell wrote:
>There are mixed reviews on an UNDAMPENED
crank pulley however, Extreme
>Motorsports sells a DAMPENED one for our
cars which would calm alot of
>critics...... I personally
would never use an underdrive crank pulley
>damnpened or otherwise, due to
the slight loss of voltage across the board
>on the car (more strain
battery)
>
>the link to what I am talking about is below, scroll all
the way down to the
>bottom of the
page.
>http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/engine.htm
><
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/engine.htm>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 07:58:01
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
While the car was in for the 90k I
decided to have the 3SX Performance
(
www.3sxperformance.com/designs.asp)
motor mounts installed. So for all
of you just dying to hear about what
tools you need, how long it takes,
and if you can do it at home -- I highly
suggest that you take it to a
mechanic ready to tackle such a
project.
So why upgrade to aftermarket? Stock motor mounts were
between
$245-$275. The ones from 3SX are $300 and solid
polyurethane. Oh, and
they are available in red or blue so I took red
to continue the color
theme on the car. So an upgrade in performance at
nearly the same price
and a choice of matching color. That is why I
upgraded.
My dealer (not a typical Satan by any means but nice, helpful,
friendly,
etc.) took around 5 hours to install them. The rear turbo was
nearly
removed to get to one mount as the last bolt would not come out.
They
said the motor "absolutely will not move now" which is good.
However,
the next time someone wants to change the timing belt on my car he
says
they will have a bear of a time since the motor will not easily move
in
its mounts because it is so tight.
The special tools used by the
dealer were a bar to span across the top
of the engine to lift it in place
without removing the hood (or an
engine lift from above when the hood is
removed) and the other special
tool was just a good bit of patience and
knowing how to get to
everything (the mounts were tight to fit the pins into
and then to fit
everything back into the car). Remember that they also
installed my
rear anti-sway bar in around two hours (Rich Merritt's folks did
the
same bar around 90 minutes I think) and Erik Gross managed
the
knuckle-bashing job in 8 hours with lots of breaks for cursing. So
I
imagine the 5-hour motor mount job would be 12-20 for us mortal
folks.
I have not driven it yet but the dealer says that when jacking up
the
engine from underneath the car might make the car rise with it.
Heh.
Now THAT is stiff. I'll see how it all works when the car gets
returned
(hopefully this week) and will report on feeling at idle,
cruising
speed, throttle response to the torque transmitted through
everything,
etc.
I have pictures of the motor mounts from 3SX (great
job on manufacturing
them and shipping them, Steve and Eric) and will photo
the old ones when
I get them back. All four were cracked to some degree
and the tranny
one was the best out of all of them.
On the link below
I tried to take pictures with measurements since most
people will not have
any idea what the other three mounts are like (as
you can only easily see the
one in the front right of the engine bay).
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/engine/MotorMount/-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 at 98k getting the 90k tune-up and making up for some
overdue
maintenance
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 08:38:10
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Underdrive puley
I believe the stock pulley is part #MD177199
titled "Pulley, crankshaft,
ribbed" and is at Tallahassee Mitsu for $232 list
or $197 sale price.
The belts all look good on my car (were changed just 30k
ago) but it is
the gasket/rubber ring/connection that is starting to make a
gap and
will eventually fail. However, when the stock one works and is
quite a
bit less than a good aftermarket one that does have dampening
(Buschur
Racing) then maybe a stock one will go back in for another 60k
miles.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Wednesday,
July 24, 2002 07:28
Till today there are no bad reports of any UDP on our
cars known. This
lead
me also to use one and I also have no
problems.
AFAIK, also Buschur sell a dampened one.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 08:43:28
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
I apologize if my comments about Amsoil
were misleading. (You were
correct, by the way, Jeff L.). I am
affiliated with Amsoil but I'm not
a direct hired employee. I don't
plan to see any revenue from them
unless I sell a gajillion cases of
something, which is hardly likely to
ever happen. I sell their products
from my personal site (link is in my
sig) and didn't mean to put my personal
beliefs, claims, or "store" on
the Team3S list, when it was meant for a
technical response. When I get
some hard evidence about how this oil
compares to any other oil, such as
in a frying pan in a 500 F degree oven,
then I will gladly share that
result with you. But passing along
another company's claim to the list
is not part of "playing fair" here.
Contact me privately with any
further questions, or visit my site.
-
--Flash
dschilberg@pobox.com1995
VR-4
"Independent AMSOIL Dealer"
www.schilberg.com/Amsoil/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darren Schilberg"
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2002 2:12 PM
>
> Ben - I personally recommend the Amsoil 10W-30 line.
[snip
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ben M. Jones
> > Sent: Thursday, July 18,
2002 14:07
> >
> > Are there any
recommended oil products for the Stealth/3000GT TT.
Is
>
> there any pro/con for putting Red Line 20w50 Synthetic for
the
> > summer??
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 14:15:38
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
> So why upgrade to
aftermarket? Stock motor mounts
> were between $245-$275. The
ones from 3SX are $300
> and solid polyurethane. Oh, and they are
available
> in red or blue so I took red to continue the color
>
theme on the car. So an upgrade in performance at
> nearly the same
price and a choice of matching color.
I considered these also, but
decided against - partly
because of time constraints in putting my car back
together and partly because I wasn't sure I wanted to
increase the
amount of shock to the drivetrain during
gear changes and launches.
(I've already grenaded a
transfercase, don't wanna do that again - as parts
for
those still aren't available).
Let us know how it
works...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:34:20
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
Actually Matt this would
possibly help prevent another tranx case from going
to pieces. The
tranny and engine are what generally moves under hard
accel/deccel this
twisting tends to put strain on its belhousing and the
transfer case. If you
note the transfer case appears to be the only part of
the front driveline
line components directly bolted to a crossmember (no
rubber mounts/bushings
to allow movement)
So when the motor rocks the tranny follows and the
transfers case torqued in
a odd manner, weather this is directly related to
you particular failure I
can not prove. However all this movement in
the case of 15G+ turbo guys it
can not be good..........
I will have
to take pictures of the A/C line that runs along the firewall
the heatwrap
and foam insulation have been torn where the compressor housing
of my stock
turbos rubbed against it :O
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[SMTP:mjannusch@attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 10:16
AM
> To:
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Cc:
team3S@team3s.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
>
>
> I considered these also, but decided against - partly
> because
of time constraints in putting my car back
> together and partly because
I wasn't sure I wanted to
> increase the amount of shock to the
drivetrain during
> gear changes and launches. (I've already
grenaded a
> transfercase, don't wanna do that again - as parts for
> those still aren't available).
>
>
> Let us know
how it works...
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:36:15
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3SX Performance motor mounts
I will let y'all know. I don't
do high-RPM launches or drag runs so it
is less of a shock when you run in
all 3rd gear for 1.5 miles of a road
course. Good points though,
Matt. We all know that once parts get
upgraded then more oomph starts
going through and now other (weaker)
parts are going to break so it is an
endless cycle once started.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSent: Wednesday,
July 24, 2002 10:16
I considered these also, but decided against - partly
because of time constraints in putting my car back
together and partly
because I wasn't sure I wanted to
increase the amount of shock to the
drivetrain during
gear changes and launches. (I've already grenaded a
transfercase, don't wanna do that again - as parts for
those still
aren't available).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:59:23
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Underdrive puley
... and the same pulley from M&S
Recycling is $75 (without shipping and
handling).
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002
08:38
I believe the stock pulley is part #MD177199 titled "Pulley,
crankshaft,
ribbed" and is at Tallahassee Mitsu for $232 list or $197 sale
price.
The belts all look good on my car (were changed just 30k ago) but it
is
the gasket/rubber ring/connection that is starting to make a gap
and
will eventually fail. However, when the stock one works and is
quite a
bit less than a good aftermarket one that does have dampening
(Buschur
Racing) then maybe a stock one will go back in for another 60k
miles.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 11:16:17
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust manifold
Well now the dealer is turning into Satan.
They want $1,300 for the
front exhaust manifold. I told them to button
it back up and I'll fix
it myself or take it somewhere to get fixed.
They are unwilling to weld
it but I see their point (the would rather replace
it with a new OEM
part than take the fall for their own touch-up job) so I
can't blame
them for that but will complain that they are probably wanting
to
replace more than what is necessary.
I don't recall which part is
needed as it is hard to tell in CAPS.
However, this part, 15-310-12000R
(MD165689) looks like the front
exhaust manifold (I guess Right is Front and
Left is Rear - I always
forget) or this part 15-410-12533 (MD168551) which is
the front turbo
exhaust fitting are the ones in question. It is really
the part that
fits onto the front turbo exhaust, comes up about two inches,
makes a
right-hand ninety (when looking from the front of the car) and heads
to
the right and hides behind the front exhaust manifold sheet metal
cover.
I think the exhaust manifold in CAPS (MD165689) is just shown in 3D
and
is making the front part hard to see.
If this is the case then I'm
looking for a front exhaust manifold from a
turbo car that will hold long
enough to pass emissions once it is
installed. I'm most likely going to
retrieve the car end of the week
and take it to another mechanic who will
weld or fix it if necessary.
JB Weld anyone? <smirk>
Then
the mechanic gets to have fun playing around to get the exhaust
manifold
bolts loose. Dealer advises lots of glowing red turbo housing
parts,
lots of oil, lots of heat, lots of oil, then they come out
easily.
We'll see. One step at a time.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002
07:17
The manifolds can easily be welded. No big deal as we had the same
on a
customers car.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#906
***************************************