Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Tuesday, July 23 2002    Volume 01 : Number 905




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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 09:00:14 -0500
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Left Strut and Pre Cat need replacing

I have a BRAND NEW front ECS strut I'll sell for $130 shipped.

Jack


At 08:41 AM 7/22/02 -0500, Willis, Charles E. wrote:

>   Could anyone do me a favor and find prices for
>a
> > front left strut and a front pre-cat please!  Else I will be forced to pay
> > the local Mitsu dealer my soul =(  The car is a 1995 VR-4.  Thanks for you
> > help.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 08:58:54 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: The evil antenna mast - revisited

When my old mast got stuck, I used the service manual procedure
(p54:188-54:190) verbatim and it worked just fine.  That was one of the
first things I did with my NA 3000GT almost 4 years ago when I had little
mechanical knowledge.  I was quite satisfied with myself :-)

Granted, I didn't replace the motor then, but I recently helped a friend
disassemble the motor to get a 3" section of the cable that had broken off
out of it.  Upon reinserting the new mast, it went in just like mine did. 

Perhaps a dumb question, but are you sure you have the right mast - is the
cable the correct length?

- --Erik
'95 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 09:15:32 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: The evil antenna mast - revisited

I have been told that sometimes the broken part of the old plastic
remains in the assembly and prevents the new one from rolling
down all the way --- this info is not based on personal experience.

        Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>

> Okay, what's the secret?
>
> I am trying to replace my ugly aftermarket antenna with the stock power
> antenna so I can put a car cover on my track car.
>
> I am following the procedure in the service manual and TSB (identical).
> I am "forcing" the rack into the motor assembly with the rack teeth facing
> the trunk compartment, but HOW FAR DO YOU PUSH IT IN?
>
> I am then trying to rotate the rack 90 degrees toward the rear of the car to
> engage the teeth in the mechanism and checking by pulling to see if the
> teeth are engaged.  HOW DO OTHERS ACCOMPLISH THIS ROTATON?
>
> Then I switch the voltage and run the antenna mast in.  It stops about 3"
> short of getting the bottom of the mast assembly into the hole.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 09:25:05 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: The evil antenna mast - revisited

> I have been told that sometimes the broken part of the old plastic
> remains in the assembly and prevents the new one from rolling
> down all the way --- this info is not based on personal experience.

I can vouch for that from personal experience... but Chuck, you mentioned
that you bought a motor and antenna (were they new, or from a recycling
place?)  If they were used, perhaps there is a 4" section of broken shaft in
the motor.

As for pushing the antenna down, I just pushed it down about 1/4" to 1/2"
just enough to engage the teeth on the gear.  Not very far, and I didn't
have to push with more than a couple pounds of force.

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 09:35:42 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Front Anti-sway bar is IN ... question

8 hours, 4 sore arms, 2 Dremeled brackets, 1 squished foot, 1 cross-threaded
bolt, many interesting words and a little blood later; the @#$% thing is
INSTALLED!  Wow, that was an ordeal.  Pictorial instructions will be
available on my website when I have time to write the HTML.

I haven't driven it too much since the installation, and not at all hard yet
because I haven't fully tightened the through-bolt on the control arm (the
service manual says it has to be fully tightened when the car is on the
ground).  However, I have noticed one thing:

When making a moderate left turn (loading passenger's tire), I get a light
scraping noise.  It's only loud enough to hear if it's quiet and you have
the windows down.  It also only occurs when the corner is moderately loaded
- - soft turns are normal AFAIK.  This bothers me a little since the car had
never made noises before.  What's even stranger is that it's an on-off noise
that varies in frequency with wheel speed.  It has about a 50% duty cycle
(half on/off) and sounds like a metallic scrape...scrape...scrape...scrape
and only while the right front corner is loaded significantly. I'm not
completely sure, but I think the noise is getting significantly less severe
with every turn.  I now have to turn it reasonably quickly to get it to make
the noise.  I haven't tried any violent turns. 

I was initially thinking driveshaft since the swaybar comes within 1/4" of
the front driveshafts when the suspension is unloaded, but I'd think that
would be a constant scrape, not an intermittent scraping sound.  I looked
under the car briefly last night without jacking it up and I didn't see any
worn/scraped rings on either of the front driveshafts.

I'll get up under the car this evening, but what should I look for and where
should I look?  I'm assuming that I'll see something shiny on some rotating
part of the car, but what rotates with an off-center axis so as to make an
intermittent scraping noise?  Something related to the CV joint?

Thanks,
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with Saner Front Anti-sway bar and a weird noise

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 11:32:12 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: RE: The evil antenna mast - revisited

actually it was a six inch piece I removed. I bought the motor fomr M&S
recycling and it looks to be in fine shape.  They probably don't know to
remove the broken piece.

Thanks!  I have been forcing it in too far like 2 or three inches.

As for pushing the antenna down, I just pushed it down about 1/4" to 1/2"
just enough to engage the teeth on the gear.  Not very far, and I didn't
have to push with more than a couple pounds of force.

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 10:03:36 -0700
From: Tryon David PHCA <TryonD@phdnswc.navy.mil>
Subject: Team3S: re:  60k Parts source recommendations and Infinity amp wiring req uest

I just purchased a camshaft pulley removal tool from Harbor Freight for
$11.99 that should also work to remove the crankshaft pulley.  This tool is
designed to hold the camshaft pulley while removing and replacing the center
shaft bolt on most overhead cam transverse V-6 engines. I was able to engage
the tool in the crankshaft pulley and it should work far better than the so
called "worthless redesigned Mitsubishi tool".  This tool is 12" long and
very well built with heavy gauge steel and welded studs plus only costs
$11.99.  I'll report back on it when I complete my 60K service later this
year (I have 57K miles so far).

I also posted a request for information last week but haven't heard back
from anyone so I'll try it again.  I went and bought an Infinity CD/cassette
double DIN head unit and Infinity amp (mounts under passenger seat) for the
2G 3000GT/Eclipse and am looking into installing it in my 91 Stealth.  My
factory manual only covers the 91 model year and I need the page showing the
Infinity amp and radio wiring from a 2G 3000GT manual.  It looks like the
amp connector is wired back to the radio harness for power and speaker
connections.  Can anyone email me the shop manual page(s) with this info
(fax or even just a description of pin/function names is also OK)? 

Thanks,
Dave 91 base Stealth

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45315

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:20:38 -0700
From: John Sheehan <Johns@KYSO.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60k Parts source recommendations

Just got my email working again and I am looking for recommended
source(s) to order my parts from to do my 60k timing belts and water
pump, tensioner, etc.. Also plugs , wires, recommended tools and Hard
copy manuals. I have checked the FAQ but would like to hear any recent
experiences from people who have ordered these lately.
Any help will be greatly appreciated !!! Thank you, John

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 12:07:33 -0500
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Anti-sway bar is IN ... question

Sounds like the dreaded rotor shields scraping on the rotor near the
control arm ball joint.

At 09:35 AM 7/22/02 -0700, Gross, Erik wrote:

>When making a moderate left turn (loading passenger's tire), I get a light
>scraping noise.  It's only loud enough to hear if it's quiet and you have
>the windows down.  It also only occurs when the corner is moderately loaded
>- soft turns are normal AFAIK.  This bothers me a little since the car had
>never made noises before.  What's even stranger is that it's an on-off noise
>that varies in frequency with wheel speed.  It has about a 50% duty cycle
>(half on/off) and sounds like a metallic scrape...scrape...scrape...scrape

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 10:08:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Anti-sway bar is IN ... question

Yep..very very easy to have bent it..to do that.

On Mon, 22 Jul 2002, Wayne wrote:

> Sounds like the dreaded rotor shields scraping on the rotor near the
> control arm ball joint.
>
> At 09:35 AM 7/22/02 -0700, Gross, Erik wrote:
>
> >When making a moderate left turn (loading passenger's tire), I get a light
> >scraping noise.  It's only loud enough to hear if it's quiet and you have
> >the windows down.  It also only occurs when the corner is moderately loaded
> >- soft turns are normal AFAIK.  This bothers me a little since the car had
> >never made noises before.  What's even stranger is that it's an on-off noise
> >that varies in frequency with wheel speed.  It has about a 50% duty cycle
> >(half on/off) and sounds like a metallic scrape...scrape...scrape...scrape

***
Got Brakes? Need better brakes?
Send Email to: orders@speedtoys.com with any inquiries. (only this addr)
Reseller oppourtunities available.
***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 10:16:19 -0700
From: Rick Pierce <piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: Last Post on This: 3Si West Coast Gathering this weekend in Southern CA

Hi Everyone,

I wanted to post this for the people who contacted me about attending this
event this upcoming weekend Friday - Sunday 7/26-7/28.

Here is the "official" website:
http://www.omega-13.com/Westcoast3si.html

Here is another - with the information a little more detailed:
http://www.geocities.com/calan_black/wc3s.html

As a quick note on what is going on, here is a summary of planned
activities:

Friday - mostly a travel day for the NorCal people with a general get
together @ GT-Pro (yes we all know their reputation)
8:35pm reservations at National Sports Bar in Torrance for Pool and Dinner
(for those so inclined to a late meal)
Afterward talk of clubbing (mostly the young crowd - been there done that)

Saturday - Drag Race Day @ Fontana Raceway 8:00am - 4:00pm

Sunday - Cruise and "Bring your own and cook your own" BBQ (I will be
setting up coals in the BBQ pits with another 3Si member when we get back
from the cruise) - @ Charles Wilson Park in Torrance (2200 Crenshaw
Boulevard)

All Team3S and guests are invited to attend these events (especially the
cruise and BBQ Sunday - just a chance to drive around Palos Verdes and take
pictures with a BBQ afterwards), if you need more info especially after
checking out the two URL's above, please contact me before Wednesday as I am
leaving early to meet up with some friends.

Hope the SoCal Team3S guys (Jim, Kurt, Damon, Ken, etc.) all turnout and
show the Drag Racing contingent that road racing is where it's at!

Best, Rick

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 10:33:49 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Anti-sway bar is IN ... question

Thanks, Wayne.  I'll get under there and take a look at the dust shield and
the brake clips (another private suggestion).  The shields will come off
eventually when I do my brake work, but they're on there now.  Hopefully
that's it :-)

- --Erik

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
>
> Sounds like the dreaded rotor shields scraping on the rotor near the
> control arm ball joint.

> At 09:35 AM 7/22/02 -0700, Gross, Erik wrote:
>
> >When making a moderate left turn (loading passenger's tire),
> I get a light scraping noise.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 18:31:02 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Team3S: CAPS lookup please?

I need the Mitsu part number (MD/MB#) for a '95 AWD
transfercase.  VIN # JA3AW75K3SY829296.

Thanks in advance!

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 12:46:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k Parts source recommendations

I went with Rockville Mitsu
(http://www.mitsupartsdirect.com/)

I think you have to call in the order to get the team
3s discount.  Also first order is free shipping.

I ordered the standard stuff + both manuals + a fuel
line.  Total was $560.  If you take off the manuals
and fuel line, it's about $360.  Parts arrived in 2
weeks (1 week wait for manuals, 1 week for shipping
coast-to-coast).

I obtained plugs locally.

Tensioner tool from 3sxperformance $20 + shipping
(total $28?).  I made the crankshaft tool from a scrap
piece of 2x6 lumber (Gasp!).

I think the time estimate for a 60k on the team
website is overly optomistic for the first timer.
Better block out the entire weekend, just in case.

Glenn
'93 vr-4
60k completed 6 weeks ago.

- --- John Sheehan <Johns@KYSO.com> wrote:
> Just got my email working again and I am looking for
> recommended
> source(s) to order my parts from to do my 60k timing
> belts and water
> pump, tensioner, etc.. Also plugs , wires,
> recommended tools and Hard
> copy manuals. I have checked the FAQ but would like
> to hear any recent
> experiences from people who have ordered these
> lately.
> Any help will be greatly appreciated !!! Thank you,
> John

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 12:58:51 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CAPS lookup please?

MB896326 is the part number for the 2G ('94+) transfer case.  I checked your
VIN just to be sure and that is the correct number for yours as well.

- --Erik

> I need the Mitsu part number (MD/MB#) for a '95 AWD
> transfercase.  VIN # JA3AW75K3SY829296.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 09:12:54 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: The evil antenna mast - revisited

Okay, what's the secret?

I am trying to replace my ugly aftermarket antenna with the stock power
antenna so I can put a car cover on my track car.

I bought an antenna mast and a motor.

I dissasembled the motor and removed the old broken off piece of the plastic
rack.

I am following the procedure in the service manual and TSB (identical).

Of course, I am tricking the motor into running up by connecting 12V across
pins 1 and 4 and switching +/- to run down.

I am "forcing" the rack into the motor assembly with the rack teeth facing
the trunk compartment, but HOW FAR DO YOU PUSH IT IN?

I am then trying to rotate the rack 90 degrees toward the rear of the car to
engage the teeth in the mechanism and checking by pulling to see if the
teeth are engaged.  HOW DO OTHERS ACCOMPLISH THIS ROTATON?

Then I switch the voltage and run the antenna mast in.  It stops about 3"
short of getting the bottom of the mast assembly into the hole.

The reason I am tricking the motor is that the aftermarket receiver has a
antenna motor line out, but it is obviously not connected (yet), so when the
radio power is on, the antenna motor doesn't move.  This is another project
for another day.

DOES ANYONE THINK I CAN DISASSEMBLE THE MOTOR WHILE IT'S HALFWAY INSTALLED
AND MANUALLY THREAD THE ANTENNA MAST IN?

Chuck Willis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 09:18:16 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: car hauler - where to get a good, cheap one

I need a car hauler that can support my two ton VR4.  Any hints on sources?
I don't want to spend $600 each time to rent from U-Haul.  An open trailer
would be fine.  Might be nice to have a rack for extra tires and tools.

Chuck Willis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 16:50:37 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: car hauler - where to get a good, cheap one

Try going to your local circle track on a Sunday night.

I'm sure one of those guys has or knows of one fairly cheap.

Otherwise try www.Autotrader.com

Good luck,

Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: <3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 9:18 AM
Subject: Team3S: car hauler - where to get a good, cheap one

> I need a car hauler that can support my two ton VR4.  Any hints on
sources?
> I don't want to spend $600 each time to rent from U-Haul.  An open trailer
> would be fine.  Might be nice to have a rack for extra tires and tools.
>
> Chuck Willis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 11:40:01 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Anti-sway bar is IN ... question

Don't have any noises but what you are describing sounds like wheel bearing
noise. Wonder if the noise will still exist after you fully tighten the
control arm bolt.

Chuck

I haven't driven it too much since the installation, and not at all hard yet
because I haven't fully tightened the through-bolt on the control arm (the
service manual says it has to be fully tightened when the car is on the
ground).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 11:08:52 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: RE: The evil antenna mast - revisited

I bought the mast from the dealer - I'll check the part number with CAPS
tonight.

It <looks> the same.

How far did you push the new cable into the motor assembly before turning it
90 degrees?

Chuck Willis

Perhaps a dumb question, but are you sure you have the right mast - is the
cable the correct length?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 21:40:33 -0400
From: "Bedrock" <bedrock@attbi.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: The evil antenna mast - revisited

I never did twist the plastic 90°. I just fed it with the teeth  facing the
rear and it went in with no problem. I had the mast extented all the way and
had a friend turn off the radio to retract it.

> Okay, what's the secret?
>
> I am trying to replace my ugly aftermarket antenna with the stock power
> antenna so I can put a car cover on my track car.
>
> I bought an antenna mast and a motor.
>
> I dissasembled the motor and removed the old broken off piece of the
plastic
> rack.
>
> I am following the procedure in the service manual and TSB (identical).
>
> Of course, I am tricking the motor into running up by connecting 12V
across
> pins 1 and 4 and switching +/- to run down.
>
> I am "forcing" the rack into the motor assembly with the rack teeth facing
> the trunk compartment, but HOW FAR DO YOU PUSH IT IN?
>
> I am then trying to rotate the rack 90 degrees toward the rear of the car
to
> engage the teeth in the mechanism and checking by pulling to see if the
> teeth are engaged.  HOW DO OTHERS ACCOMPLISH THIS ROTATON?
>
> Then I switch the voltage and run the antenna mast in.  It stops about 3"
> short of getting the bottom of the mast assembly into the hole.
>
> The reason I am tricking the motor is that the aftermarket receiver has a
> antenna motor line out, but it is obviously not connected (yet), so when
the
> radio power is on, the antenna motor doesn't move.  This is another
project
> for another day.
>
> DOES ANYONE THINK I CAN DISASSEMBLE THE MOTOR WHILE IT'S HALFWAY INSTALLED
> AND MANUALLY THREAD THE ANTENNA MAST IN?
>
> Chuck Willis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 20:48:48 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket Radiator Hoses...

Anyone have a rundown on where I can find a set???

I have a slow coolant leak and am yet to find it...  Gonna replace the
hoses cause they are old...  Anyone have any other ideas where to
look... I haven't seen a puddle of water or anything on the ground where
I park...

I had the system pressure tested, but not sure if they left it under
pressure long enough, or if maybe the motor wasn't hot enough to make
any small leak apparent...  The cap is brand new...  I do have a
question, and that is... if when the coolant expands, it flows into the
overflow tank, is there a possibility its not getting sucked back in???

- -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 09:09:37 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aftermarket Radiator Hoses...

Cody, have you pulled the cap for the overflow tank off to see if maybe the
hose that runs down from the cap into the tank has come loose?  This
happened to me once before when I was trying to find out where a weird
gurgling noise was coming from.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody [SMTP:overclck@satx.rr.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 9:49 PM
> To: Starnet; 'Team3S'
> Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket Radiator Hoses...
>
> Anyone have a rundown on where I can find a set???
>
> I have a slow coolant leak and am yet to find it...  Gonna replace the
> hoses cause they are old...  Anyone have any other ideas where to
> look... I haven't seen a puddle of water or anything on the ground where
> I park...
>
> I had the system pressure tested, but not sure if they left it under
> pressure long enough, or if maybe the motor wasn't hot enough to make
> any small leak apparent...  The cap is brand new...  I do have a
> question, and that is... if when the coolant expands, it flows into the
> overflow tank, is there a possibility its not getting sucked back in???
>
> -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 10:53:12 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: Team3S: 94 VR-4 Not Holding boost

Hey listers I hope somebody can help me with I am having....  I have a local
guy with a 94 that wont hold boost, Mods are DNP Precat Eliminators, ATR D/P
with high flow cat, ATR single shot exhaust, Turbo XS RFL (I already told
him to ditch that thing and put on a Greddy Type S) and an XBC manual BC (he
used to have an XS and that thing was an absolute POS)

Anyway we put the car back to stock boost control and it would not boost
over 5 psi and would hold it to redline, tested the factory boost solenoid
and is appears to be working fine........

Put in the XBC and now the car will boost to 10-12 but by 6K is only making
3-4 PSI (at best) I am thinking either an intake tract leak (but car idles
fine) or a bad turbo actuator?

Any suggestions on where in the repair manual or car  to look would be
appreciated

Russ F
CT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #905
***************************************