Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, July 21
2002 Volume 01 : Number
903
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Jul 2002 02:13:45 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: DSM BOV
The only thing I don't understand is why would the DSM's
biggest 1st gen
mod be to "crush" the BOV... Where did you buy
yours? If it was from a
performance aftermarket shop, theres a good
chance they "crushed" it for
you to start... From the factory,
the 1g dsm bov's barely hold stock
boost, which is something like 10 - 12
psi...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Matt Jannusch
Sent: Friday,
July 19, 2002 10:09 PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Re: Team3S: DSM
BOV
> Don't waste your time... 2ng gen DSM BOV's suck...
and 1st gen dsm
> BOV's need to be "crushed" to handle any boost
whatsoever... the 2nd
> gen DSM'ers actually use VR4 BOV's as an
upgrade...
I keep hearing this from various people, but my 1G DSM valve
(completely
unmolested) holds past 25 psi when I'm using my intake pressure
tester
with
the outlet of the BOV seeing atmospheric pressure. I've
never heard of
a 1G
DSM valve holding less than 17 psi - which is plenty
for a typically
tuned
street-driven 3/S. I personally think anything
other than the 1G DSM
valve
is a waste of money that could be better spent
elsewhere.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 00:23:06
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
hot compression test-- should I even bother?
I feel a little bit better
now. I wasn't flooring the gas while cranking or
doing anything else to open
the throttle plate. I also read that the test
should be done with the PCV
outlet plugged, all spark plugs out, and the
engine hot. This is mostly not a
problem to me... except how do I keep the
engine hot? After all, I'm going to
take the plenum off. I don't want to
suck in unfiltered air for that long! Or
should I?
- -Riyan
-
-----------------------cut---------------------->
Hi Riyan,
I have had
engines with low compression readings before, and then I
realized, I did not
have the throttle plate blocked open.
-
-----------------------cut---------------------->
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 00:30:02
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
MAS
With a smile and a $100 bill, it doesn't matter WHO OR WHAT is doing
your
smog check. Also, you can send your girlfriend in with the puppy-dog
look.
That might work even better.
- -Riyan
-
------------cut------------------------------>
You might have a problem
passing emissions, BTW, (depending on
what state you're in), since the
K&N cone is not street legal. The only one
that is street-legal in
50 states is the K&N FIPK. But that depends on who
is doing the
testing and your state laws...
-
------------------------cut--------------------->
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 09:42:12
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: hot compression test-- should I even bother?
I don't want to
sound negative in any way but blockinn the TB or anythign
else is not
necessary. Also having the engine hot or warm is negligible at
our cars.
Maybe 5-8 psi difference but not more.
The only case the books are
writing that the plugs must be removed is to
prevent them from firing. But we
simply can pull a fuse and no firing
anymore (I pull the ignition plug to the
coils). The engine needs to be
cranked about three revolutions until the
pressure hold meter is not moving
anymore. This little unfiltered air is
nothing to worry at all - unless you
doing this in the sahara region
;-)
IMHO I'd check the compression meter for proper reading first.
Second,
broken rings or pistons result in about 70-90, still more than you
have
measured. Bent, stuck open valves result in about 20-30 (depends on how
much
are bent). Your situation sounds like a wrongly alligned timign belt. If
the
intake slips two teeths teh compression gets low as the valves are
still
open when the pistons are already building up compression. This
often
results in 50-80 figures. I haven't wollowed the trhread fully but I
guess
the belt is properly aligned I hope.
Las but not least, if you
can't figure out with a new tester (a compression
tester is only $18 or so)
it's time to do a leak down test. For this a
compressor is necessary to find
out where the pressure goes to.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
----
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
To:
"Team3s (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, July 20, 2002 5:25 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: hot compression test--
should I even bother?
> Hi Riyan,
> I have had engines with low
compression readings before, and then I
> realized, I did not have the
throttle plate blocked open. Sometimes we
just
> forget to do it. I
hope thats the case here, and your engine is not worn
> out.
>
Good Luck,
> David Thrower
> 92 Stealth R/T TT All
stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 09:45:12
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS
This is how we do it here too (even the local Mitsu
importer does this for
me), but the police is doing also smog checks when
they do a formal routine
check on the streets. Since the 720 and ARC I was
never able to pass
anything, even with cats ;-(
BTW, the stamp costs
me $60 here, and no smilign face necessary ... but at
exhibitions, they got
my car for show twice or three times a year ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, July 20, 2002 9:30 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: MAS
> With a
smile and a $100 bill, it doesn't matter WHO OR WHAT is doing your
> smog
check. Also, you can send your girlfriend in with the puppy-dog look.
>
That might work even better.
>
> -Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 06:20:18
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MAS
Just find someone you know that knows someone that can "help"
you out...
My last inspection consisted of "ok whats the VIN?" and...
"Is it safe"
the second question was optional, and half a joke... 5
minutes later I
received a shiny new inspection sticker for $10...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Saturday,
July 20, 2002 2:45 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: MAS
This is
how we do it here too (even the local Mitsu importer does this
for
me),
but the police is doing also smog checks when they do a
formal
routine
check on the streets. Since the 720 and ARC I was never
able to pass
anything, even with cats ;-(
BTW, the stamp costs me $60
here, and no smilign face necessary ... but
at
exhibitions, they got my
car for show twice or three times a year ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 06:18:34
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DSM BOV
Thanks for all the input. I decided to just buy
a Greddy Type S insteady of
try to make a DSM BOV work. I was told that
the DSMs were stronger than the
stock 3S one because it was made of
metal. What it is made of has nothing
to do with spring strength or how
it is engeneered, so I am glad that I
asked the list first. I was
reluctant since I saw that the Greddy Type S
was going for $300 plus. I
checked prices again and was surprised to see
that MVP had them for
$206.
Thanks for the input and my condolenses to Matt. I know you
have been doing
a lot of work on your car and now you will have even more to
do.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 09:19:24
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: DSM BOV
> The only thing I don't understand is why would the
DSM's biggest 1st gen
> mod be to "crush" the BOV... Where did you
buy yours? If it was from a
> performance aftermarket shop, theres a
good chance they "crushed" it for
> you to start... From the
factory, the 1g dsm bov's barely hold stock
> boost, which is something
like 10 - 12 psi...
I don't know why a lot of them crush it. Maybe
I just got really lucky with
the valve I got. It definitely is not
crushed - I used to have DSMs as well
and know what they look like when
crushed. Mine came from Extreme
Motorsports.
I think you are
thinking about the 2G DSM BOV which is a total POS, just
like ours. The
1G is actually really good to 17-18 psi stock. Keep in mind
that the
DSM guys routinely run 17-19 psi on the street daily, so anyone
going to the
track and cranking up the boost likes to crush their valve.
For a
daily-driver 3/S the 1G DSM valve is more than adequate.
From their "1000
Questions FAQ":
"The original DSM BOVs were designed to open at about 30
psi or so.
Unfortunately for 2G owners, Chrylser replaced the metal 1G BOV
with a
plastic one that begins to leak at about 15 psi. This is a major
problem for
those 2Gers looking to up their boost, since the BOV will start
to leak a
lot of useful boost pressure back into the atmosphere. For this
reason, 1G
BOVs are a popular upgrade on 2G DSMs.
Hardcore 1Gers might
also find the stock BOV to leak under higher boost
pressures (more than 20
psi). To correct this problem, some owners crush
their BOVs slightly, so they
will open only at higher pressures."
But buy whatever you want, it
doesn't matter to my wallet. ;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 07:33:05
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
DSM BOV
I don't understand all the talk about BOV's leaking --- under
normal boost conditions
both sides of the of the valve have the same
pressure so the pressure differential is
zero. When the throttle plate is
closed a vacuum is applied to the side getting plenum
pressure while the
other side still has boost pressure and the valve opens to vent the
excess
pressure. How do these things leak when both sides have 5#, 15# or 30#
???
Any leaking would have to out the body of the valve or perhaps some small
leakage
around an ill fitting
piston.
Jim Berry
==========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
> >
The only thing I don't understand is why would the DSM's biggest 1st gen
>
> mod be to "crush" the BOV... Where did you buy yours? If it was
from a
> > performance aftermarket shop, theres a good chance they
"crushed" it for
> > you to start... From the factory, the
1g dsm bov's barely hold stock
> > boost, which is something like 10 -
12 psi...
>
> I don't know why a lot of them crush it. Maybe
I just got really lucky with
> the valve I got. It definitely is not
crushed - I used to have DSMs as well
> and know what they look like when
crushed. Mine came from Extreme
> Motorsports.
>
> I
think you are thinking about the 2G DSM BOV which is a total POS, just
>
like ours. The 1G is actually really good to 17-18 psi stock. Keep
in mind
> that the DSM guys routinely run 17-19 psi on the street daily,
so anyone
> going to the track and cranking up the boost likes to crush
their valve.
> For a daily-driver 3/S the 1G DSM valve is more than
adequate.
>
> From their "1000 Questions FAQ":
>
>
"The original DSM BOVs were designed to open at about 30 psi or so.
>
Unfortunately for 2G owners, Chrylser replaced the metal 1G BOV with a
>
plastic one that begins to leak at about 15 psi. This is a major problem
for
> those 2Gers looking to up their boost, since the BOV will start to
leak a
> lot of useful boost pressure back into the atmosphere. For this
reason, 1G
> BOVs are a popular upgrade on 2G DSMs.
> Hardcore 1Gers
might also find the stock BOV to leak under higher boost
> pressures (more
than 20 psi). To correct this problem, some owners crush
> their BOVs
slightly, so they will open only at higher pressures."
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 16:52:48
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DSM BOV
Jim, did you understand the BOV setup correctly
?
You do NOT have the same on both sides of the valve. The valve has
an
"actuator" in it. This pipe is connected to the plenum and the
pressure
there together with the loaded spring holds against the pressure in
the
y-pipe. If the TB is closed the difference of before the valve plate and
the
actuator must be larger than the pressure of the spring. If this is so
the
valve opens. Remember the other side of the vlave goes weither to
the
atmosphere or the intake and thsi is never under boost !
Now the
stock BPV already has a little hole in it to smoothen out the
operation but
this is not a big deal. But increasing boost means that the
valve plate sees
mroe pressure and it is possible, that the spring of the
BPV is not strong
enough to support the actuator line in holding it closed
against the higher
boost. Also the older a BPV the weaker the spring gets
and the earlier it may
start to leak. I even foudn a difference between a
cold and warm BPV !! This
also explains what the owl is sometimes not
noticeable in cold but in warm
weather ... or vice versa (haven't looked in
that deeper... replaced with
Greddy S)
Hope that thsi explains the stuff.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Matt Jannusch"
<
mjannusch@attbi.com>; "cody"
<
overclck@satx.rr.com>;
"'Team3S'"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, July 20, 2002 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: DSM BOV
> I
don't understand all the talk about BOV's leaking --- under normal
boost
conditions
> both sides of the of the valve have the same
pressure so the pressure
differential is
> zero. When the throttle
plate is closed a vacuum is applied to the side
getting plenum
>
pressure while the other side still has boost pressure and the valve opens
to
vent the
> excess pressure. How do these things leak when both sides have
5#, 15# or
30# ???
> Any leaking would have to out the body of the
valve or perhaps some small
leakage
> around an ill fitting
piston.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 10:28:37
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
hot compression test-- should I even bother?
Roger-
bent/open
valves result in 20 to 30 psi drained from each cyl., or 20 to 30
psi left in
each cyl.? I assume the first. So you think it could be the
t-belt. I did a
vacuum check, but my friend was watching the gauge, and all
he said is "it
looks okay". So I need to do it again. Would an engine vacuum
test tell me if
this is the problem? If the intake valve(s) are staying open
than the vacuum
would be lower than normal, correct? I'll borrow another
tester. The
tool room has plenty. And I'll see if I can do a leak-down test
in my shop as
well. Thanks for the prompt reply and useful info.
- -Riyan
-
--------------------cut--------------------------->
broken rings or
pistons result in about 70-90, still more than you have
measured. Bent, stuck
open valves result in about 20-30 (depends on how much
are bent). Your
situation sounds like a wrongly alligned timign belt. If the
intake slips two
teeths teh compression gets low as the valves are still
open when the pistons
are already building up compression. This often
results in 50-80 figures. I
haven't wollowed the trhread fully but I guess
the belt is properly aligned I
hope.
Las but not least, if you can't figure out with a new tester (a
compression
tester is only $18 or so) it's time to do a leak down test. For
this a
compressor is necessary to find out where the pressure goes to.
-
--------------------cut---------------------------->
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 19:37:37
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: hot compression test-- should I even bother?
> bent/open
valves result in 20 to 30 psi drained from each cyl., or 20 to
30
> psi
left in each cyl.? I assume the first.
This is purely what we measured on
the engines.
> So you think it could be the
> t-belt
No,
I just said to check these things !
> I did a vacuum check, but my
friend was watching the gauge, and all
> he said is "it looks
okay"
Is not related to any compression test.
> So I need to do
it again. Would an engine vacuum
> test tell me if this is the
problem?
No a leak down (pressure test) should be done.
> If
the intake valve(s) are staying open
> than the vacuum would be lower than
normal, correct?
Depends on how many valves are open and then the output
is still not
checked.
> I'll borrow another
> tester.
The tool room has plenty. And I'll see if I can do a leak-down
test
>
in my shop as well. Thanks for the prompt reply and useful info.
Hope
you'll find it out :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 12:41:16
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Question
I finally found my manuals, haven't crawled under
the hood yet. I'm still
living with this problem. The vacuum hose
is only on the AWD, not my FWD
ES. Anything suggested starting
points? Thanks.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
stealth@quixnet.net>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 08, 2002 11:28 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
Question
Check the vacuum hose that goes to the clutch booster. See
if it is
leaking, rotten, or crimped. It has a check valve in it, which
might be
sticking. You could clean the inside.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
stealth@quixnet.net
[SMTP:stealth@quixnet.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 7:02
AM
[snip]
>
> When the car is cold in the morning, I get full
normal clutch pedal
> resistance throughout its travel. But after a
few minutes of driving, and
> for the rest of the day thereafter, the
pedal resistance changes to very
> light at the top and very heavy at the
bottom of its travel. It's almost
> painful on my
foot.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 11:10:56
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
hot compression test-- should I even bother?
one more thing... can i
drive it around in the meantime with those kinds of
numbers? it still feels
okay, runs clean and all.
- -Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 11:46:51
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
DSM BOV
Roger, thanks
I was assuming that the stock valve was
similar in design to the Blitz valve I
have. It has a piston that is driven
by the changes in boost pressure and held
in place by a spring.
I guess
I'll have to take my old stock valve apart and take a look at
it.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, July 20, 2002 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: DSM BOV
> Jim,
did you understand the BOV setup correctly ?
>
> You do NOT have
the same on both sides of the valve. The valve has an
> "actuator" in it.
This pipe is connected to the plenum and the pressure
> there together
with the loaded spring holds against the pressure in the
> y-pipe. If the
TB is closed the difference of before the valve plate and the
> actuator
must be larger than the pressure of the spring. If this is so the
> valve
opens. Remember the other side of the vlave goes weither to the
>
atmosphere or the intake and thsi is never under boost !
>
> Now
the stock BPV already has a little hole in it to smoothen out the
>
operation but this is not a big deal. But increasing boost means that
the
> valve plate sees mroe pressure and it is possible, that the spring
of the
> BPV is not strong enough to support the actuator line in holding
it closed
> against the higher boost. Also the older a BPV the weaker the
spring gets
> and the earlier it may start to leak. I even foudn a
difference between a
> cold and warm BPV !! This also explains what the
owl is sometimes not
> noticeable in cold but in warm weather ... or vice
versa (haven't looked in
> that deeper... replaced with Greddy S)
>
> Hope that thsi explains the stuff.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 13:22:21
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Question
Since you don't have a clutch booster then it
makes thinks a lot more
simple. First I would bleed your clutch.
If you have air in your line,
then that could cause what you are describing
where you would be compressing
air for part of the clutch pedal and then have
to press harder at the
bottom. If that doesn't fix it, then your clutch
spring is probably going.
It is probably time for a new clutch
then.
If bleeding your clutch doesn't fix the problem then just take your
car to a
clutch specialist. Most of them have a free diagnosis and
inspection. Be
sure that you bring it to a shop you can trust that
isn't just out to make a
quick buck.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 00:16:42
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DSM BOV
Well, each pressure release valve work about the same
way. Some with one,
some with two chambers (called sequential BOV) but the
way the operate is
the same. But the stock thing is cheaper than anything
else in the world !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>;
"'Team3S'"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, July 20, 2002 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: DSM BOV
>
Roger, thanks
>
> I was assuming that the stock valve was similar in
design to the Blitz
valve I
> have. It has a piston that is driven by
the changes in boost pressure and
held
> in place by a spring.
>
I guess I'll have to take my old stock valve apart and take a look at
it.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 01:30:42
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DSM BOV
Jim,
I tend to agree with you. There "should"
be the same pressure on each side of
the actuator valve during boost
conditions with the throttle plate wide open.
Perhaps the visualization of
the GReddy BOV provided on the DSMtalk web page
below helps to understand
the operation.
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=51052This
link is also on my web page concerning the GReddy and stock BOVs.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-bov1.htmThe
pressure on one side of the valve is from the Y-pipe. The pressure on the
other side is from the plenum and the spring. I would guess that if internal
components did not leak, there would be no problem with any BOV, or more
correctly, by-pass valve (BPV).
I think the problem is three-fold:
(1) there is low pressure on the third
opening of the valve that will tend
to draw the air around the seals, (2) the
lower seal or upper seal may be
worn or damaged and leak, and (3) the pressure
loss inside the long,
small-diameter hose from the plenum to the top of the
BPV may be great
enough (or enough larger than the short, large-diameter hose
from the Y-pipe
to base of the BPV) to create sufficient pressure differential
to slightly
open the BPV (similar to when the throttle plate is closed or
mostly
closed). The spring of course helps to counteract this third
situation.
Just some ideas.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Re: Team3S: DSM
BOV
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 07:33:05 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Matt Jannusch"
<
mjannusch@attbi.com>,
"cody"
<
overclck@satx.rr.com>,
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
I
don't understand all the talk about BOV's leaking --- under normal boost
conditions
both sides of the of the valve have the same pressure so the
pressure
differential is
zero. When the throttle plate is closed a
vacuum is applied to the side
getting plenum
pressure while the other
side still has boost pressure and the valve opens to
vent the
excess
pressure. How do these things leak when both sides have 5#, 15# or
30#
???
Any leaking would have to out the body of the valve or perhaps some small
leakage
around an ill fitting
piston.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 19:45:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS
Those little nuts can't be twisted loose with regularity,
you have to
HIT them. It helps if the tabs are not broken yet, but a
dab of
superglue usually does the trick to keep them from moving or you
can
use a scratch awl(ice pick) to keep them from turning. My
technique
runs like this.. put a long box end wrench on the nut, secure
airbox,
hit end of wrench with large mallet. I've done about 15 cars
this
way and have yet to break a tab.
Casey
- --- Alex Pedenko
<
pedenkoa@msu.edu> wrote:
>
Okay, so i got a KN cone and adapter and started to install it,
> just to
find
> out that the four bolts holding the MAS to the air box cover
are
> just
> spinning through. The little plastic ridges on the
inside that are
> supposed
> to prevent it from spinning just sort
of got crushed. I took it to
> a shop.
> They undid the top two and
said "we can't get a pair of pliers to
> fit over
> the bottom ones
so ... you're out of luck. Take it to satan"
>
> I really would
rather not do that. Is there anything else i can do?
>
> How much
does the MAS cost? Will a mas from an SL work on a VR4 (I
> can
get
> my hands on one of those for cheap)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
> '95 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 09:41:16
EDT
From:
Keisuke6G72@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Front Left Strut and Pre Cat need replacing
My dealer called today and
said I've blown out the front left strut and the
front pre-cat is
leaking. Could anyone do me a favor and find prices for a
front left
strut and a front pre-cat please! Else I will be forced to pay
the
local Mitsu dealer my soul =( The car is a 1995 VR-4. Thanks for you
help.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#903
***************************************