Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, July 19
2002 Volume 01 : Number
902
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 Jul 2002 00:11:59 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: hoot
owl...
First off, thanks for everybody's help on taking apart the MAS. I
ended up
using a dremel to cut off the airbox cover, ripping off most of the
remnants
with pliers, more dremeling to get the rest of the crap off and then
stuck
it in a big vise... So I installed the filter, which is a 6" KN Cone
with a
standard adapter with a 4.5" circular opening (btw - it's a steal - 67
bucks
for the cone, adapter and mounting bracket. Look for it on 3si). Now I
get
the infamous "hoot-owl" right around 3,500 rpm. My question is why does
the
filter prompt this? I had a blitz sbc-id installed and I would think
the
higher pressure would cause the BPV to leak, not just the filter. Is
there
an explantion for this?
Alex
Blitz SBC-iD, K&N Cone
and EGR block off due to go in...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 01:06:26
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dodge Stealth ES 1991
Hans,
Get your navkapsel or the
centercap at
www.msrecycling.com or
look through
the "for sale" section on
www.3si.org. Some people part out their cars -
sell them one part at a time.
Same with the fog light.
Ask Jim
Matthews
http://www.team3s.com/~matthews/stealth.html
what he did
to his Stealth lights to drive it in England.
Good
luch,
Philip
At 18:57 9/27/2002, Familjen Hörtin wrote:
>I
have sent mail to some partsdealer in US about a front
driverside
>foglight.
>My is rosty and it not possible to
open.
>
>And that black round thing in the middle of the wheel.
Dodge is written on
>it.Original wheels.
>In sweden its called
"navkapsel" and if if i translate it it will be
>something like
"centercap".
>
>The anser is no parts.
>
>In sweden the
cars must have orange blinkers. Cant find original orange
>blinkers to
Dodge Stealth ES.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:29:13
-0700
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: hoot owl...
The filter does not cause the bpv to leak. It just
allos you to hear it.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex
Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: hoot
owl...
> Now I get
> the infamous "hoot-owl" right around 3,500
rpm. My question is why does
the
> filter prompt this? I had a blitz
sbc-id installed and I would think the
> higher pressure would cause the
BPV to leak, not just the filter. Is there
> an explantion for
this?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:33:30
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Anti-sway Bar Installation Question (Help?)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim
[mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 4:40 PM
To:
'Gross, Erik'; Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Anti-sway Bar
Installation Question (Help?)
I also have the Saner bar on the front of
my '94 VR4. Call Rob York,
because my shop (Southwest Alignment,
Houston Texas) took 10 hours to
install the front and rear.
Chuck
Willis
I have the Saner on my '95 VR4.
Call Rob York at 303-823-6064
and ask him about installation.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 3:36
PM
To: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Front Anti-sway Bar
Installation Question (Help?)
After much struggling, I've *almost* come
to the conclusion that the Saner
front anti-sway bar will not fit on my VR-4.
Help?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 13:42:50
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
OK, Flash, I'm confused.
In
your post below you say "I'm not affiliated at all with Amsoil".
And on
your web page you say you are an "Independent AMSOIL Dealer".
That sounds
"affiliated" to me. :)
Just for the record, I use Mobil 1 10W30 and I
really am not affiliated with
*any* company of *any* sort. :) I wouldn't
mind trying Amsoil or Royal Purple.
But with six 5-qt bottles of Mobil 1
left on my shelf (WalMart sale) and only
driving ~4K miles per year, it will
be a few years before I need to buy oil.
Interesting oil links from my
Tech Web Page:
http://lubricants.s5.com/http://www.geocities.com/chrislonghurst/engineoil_bible.htmlhttp://www.vtr.org/maintain/lubricants-redline.htmlhttp://www.lubrizol.com/LubeTheory/default.htmhttp://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.htmlhttp://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motoroil.htmlhttp://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.htmlhttp://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.htmlJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
July 18, 2002 5:48 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Grades -
Recommended
Typo on the web address in the original email. It is on
my personal
site and not the Team3S site. Also, I'm not affiliated at
all with
Amsoil but used their product and it worked. If I had used a
Mobil 1
system to run through the car then I would have a page for
them. Let me
know if I can clarify any questions you may
have.
www.schilberg.com/Amsoil-
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 09:26:41
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Street Overheating
Although someone might call it
"superheating", I don't think that is
technically correct. Superheating
is when the temperature of a liquid goes
past it's boiling boint, but the
liquid hasn't made the phase change to a
gas.
I think the temperature
is just rising because the circulation has stopped
and there is no more
cooling from the radiator.
However, you should make some effort to assure
that the coolant system is
completely charged with fluid - it seems easy to
me to get big air pockets
in there when you have to drain and refill
coolant.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From:
fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2002 9:04 AM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
team3S@team3s.com; Philip V.
Glazatov
Subject: Re: Team3S: Street Overheating
That's not uncommon
--- when the car is stopped the water stops
circulating and absorbs the
excess heat in the block which can cause
the water to boil, I've heard it
called superheating.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 10:39:59
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch and Anti-sway Bar Update
Couple of quick
updates:
1) Clutch drag issues in my '95 VR-4 (look for "Clutch/Tranny
saga"
posts from a few weeks ago)... I bled the hydraulic lines in the
clutch
system via the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and put in
fresh
Valvoline Synthetic DOT4 fluid (best stuff on short notice).
Drove it
probably a grand total of 150 miles before the next weekend.
Still having
issues occasionally with the car "creeping" with the clutch
pedal pushed to
the floor and the shifter occasionally being hard to get OUT
of first gear.
The next weekend, I went to the drag strip for the first time
and did 7
runs. On 6 of them, I intentionally babied my clutch (bogged)
to the
engagement point and then floored it. On one run, I decided to
try
launching it (slip-type, not drop) and slipped it a bit too much.
I
overheated the clutch and aborted that run... 18.X @65mph :-) I then
cooled
it off by leaving the strip and driving on the freeway for about 15
min, not
using the clutch. It stopped stinking after another 5min or so
and it's
held up just fine since then. The fun part is ever since that
weekend, I've
not had one single incident of clutch drag that I've
noticed. So either
bleeding the line and 150mi of driving or the drag
strip cured my problem...
at least for now. My new solution to all car
problems: take the car to the
drag strip and flog it mercilessly
:-)
2) Saner Front Anti-sway Bar... this has turned into more of a
project
than I'd originally thunk. It wasn't helped by the fact that I
accidentally
cross-threaded one of the holes for mounting the bushing bracket
to the rear
cross-member. I successfully ran a M10x1.25 tap through the
hole last night
and the threads seem ok now. As for the installation,
the short of it is
that I found it near-impossible to get the stock anti-sway
bar out of the
car by following the service manual's instructions (remove
down-pipe,
transfer case, and left/right frame members), but eventually it
did come
off. However I don't think it's possible to get the larger
Saner bar back
in that way. I tried several things, but what eventually
was the easiest
(and the way I'd recommend) was to disconnect both inboard
ends of the
driver's side lower control arm and allow it to rotate downward
at the ball
joint. Then the sway bar will just slip in/out without any
fuss.
The next issue was that the bushing brackets for the Saner bar
have
holes in them that don't exactly line up with the holes in the
cross-member.
They're not that far off, but far enough off that there's
considerable
tension on the bolts if you try to thread them in. I'm
gonna blame this on
my cross-threading incident, and not mechanical stupidity
on my part :-)
I'll be enlarging the holes a couple of mm in a couple of
specific places to
allow the bolts to install easier. At that point, I
hope that the rest of
the installation will go on without a
hitch. I'll most likely be taking
pictures as I put it back
together so there will finally be instructions for
this stinkin
thing...
On a related note, how does one clean out the splines on the
transfer case
input/output shafts? Along with whatever lube goes on
there from the
factory, my input shaft seems to have a bit of clutch dust
caked in there
and I thought I'd clean it out before I reassembled
everything. I know to
re-lube (assembly lube ok?) the shaft before I
assemble it, but is there
some special way to clean out the shaft
splines?
Thanks,
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 currently with nose 24" off the
ground
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 13:22:38
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch and Anti-sway Bar Update
I don't think there's
anything wrong with taking a wire brush and solvent to
the splines on the
transfer case. I'm wondering if any special lubrication
is appropriate
other than a coating of transfer case/transaxle oil. I did
use lithium grease
on the splines on my front axles when I replaced my wheel
bearings, but I'm
thinking the splines on the input/output shafts of the
transfer case would
normally be lubricated with fluid from the trasfer case
or
transaxle.
Chuck Willis
On a related note, how does one clean out
the splines on the transfer case
input/output shafts? Along with
whatever lube goes on there from the
factory, my input shaft seems to have a
bit of clutch dust caked in there
and I thought I'd clean it out before I
reassembled everything. I know to
re-lube (assembly lube ok?) the shaft
before I assemble it, but is there
some special way to clean out the shaft
splines?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:40:21
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch and Anti-sway Bar Update
>> but I'm thinking the
splines on the input/output shafts
>> of the transfer case would
normally be lubricated with
>> fluid from the trasfer case or
transaxle.
There are seals to prevent gear oil from leaking out of the
cases
and "lubricating" the output shaft (transaxle) and its receiver
(transfer
case). There is no reason to lubricate the splines as there should
be very
little relative motion between the shaft and receiver. However,
because they
are "dry", the splines tend to rust over time. Some grease on
the splines will
not change their operation but may minimize
rusting.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Gross, Erik'" <
erik.gross@intel.com>; "Team3S List
(E-mail)"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, July 19, 2002 12:22 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch and Anti-sway Bar
Update
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 13:41:11
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: hot
compression test-- should I even bother?
Hey guys,
I was at my
auto shop class yesterday and I ran a compression test on the
front bank
(front 3 cylinders) in my rt tt. The engine was "lukewarm". It
was hot enough
that I couldn't put my hand on it too long, but it was
definetely below
operating temperature. My front 3 cylinders came out to be
around 50
each!! Squirting some oil in made them go up to about 60.
According to
the book, spec is 156!! But only after I was done did I read
that this test
should be performed at operating temp. These numbers are
awful low. Should I
bother to run the test again at operating temp, or just
find myself a new
ride? Would a warm (rather than hot) engine make that big
of a difference? It
feels like it runs great, but maybe I've just never felt
true
power....
Riyan Mynuddin
93 stealth rt tt
187,000 miles
about
ready for the dumpster?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 13:57:14
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
compression test--maybe i answered my own question
I was looking through
the FAQ pages and I found this:
[[[
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:28:21
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad Leakdown/Compression Test
Mike, the cyls start with
#1 the most left front one from the drivers
perspective and go one with the
oposite bank and so on.
As Mikael asked, it highly depends on the temp of
the engine. When cold the
results are ok although (3) is too deep for sure.
115 is the minimum they
should show (in cold). When hot (warm) the results
shoudl be bweteen 135
and 150psi.
]]]]
Roger-
We are
talking about a turbo engine here, right? I think so because 150 is
what the
"turbo spec"
compression is.
Wow. I really like my car. At least she
looks nice and runs stable. Never
realized it was this bad.
:(
Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:07:11
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: compression test--maybe i answered my own question
Don't give
up on it yet. Do the test again and double check all of
your
setup. With a compression leaking that much, it seems you would
have other
problems like your dipstick blowing up, seals blowing out or other
things
like that.
If worse come to worse, then you will need an engine
rebuild. Maybe that
can be your auto shop project?
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:45:03
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch and Anti-sway Bar Update
Cool! When I say
something stupid enough I can lure Jeff into commenting!
In the case that
the splines are not lubricated, I would put lithium grease
on them to
discourage corrosion.
Chuck
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jeff Lucius [mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 2:40
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch and Anti-sway Bar Update
>> but I'm thinking the
splines on the input/output shafts
>> of the transfer case would
normally be lubricated with
>> fluid from the trasfer case or
transaxle.
There are seals to prevent gear oil from leaking out of the
cases
and "lubricating" the output shaft (transaxle) and its receiver
(transfer
case). There is no reason to lubricate the splines as there should
be very
little relative motion between the shaft and receiver. However,
because they
are "dry", the splines tend to rust over time. Some grease
on the splines
will
not change their operation but may minimize
rusting.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:30:40
-0700
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
RedLine 10W40... better heat
protection.. sliker than Mobile 1 or Amsoil.
My buddy tried some Royal
purple and had ungodly ammounts of valvetrain
noise... funny thing is that
Royal Purple seams to quite down ANY diesel...
thats why we switched from
redline to give it a try.
>From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
>To:
"" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
>Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 13:42:50
-0000
>
>OK, Flash, I'm confused.
>
>In your post below
you say "I'm not affiliated at all with Amsoil".
>
>And on your web
page you say you are an "Independent AMSOIL Dealer".
>
>That sounds
"affiliated" to me. :)
>
>Just for the record, I use Mobil 1 10W30
and I really am not affiliated
>with
>*any* company of *any* sort.
:) I wouldn't mind trying Amsoil or Royal
>Purple.
>But with six
5-qt bottles of Mobil 1 left on my shelf (WalMart sale) and
>only
>driving ~4K miles per year, it will be a few years before I
need to buy
>oil.
>
>Interesting oil links from my Tech Web
Page:
>http://lubricants.s5.com/
>http://www.geocities.com/chrislonghurst/engineoil_bible.html
>http://www.vtr.org/maintain/lubricants-redline.html
>http://www.lubrizol.com/LubeTheory/default.htm
>http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
>http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motoroil.html
>http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
>http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
>
>Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
>Sent:
Thursday, July 18, 2002 5:48 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Grades -
Recommended
>
>Typo on the web address in the original email.
It is on my personal
>site and not the Team3S site. Also, I'm not
affiliated at all with
>Amsoil but used their product and it worked.
If I had used a Mobil 1
>system to run through the car then I would have a
page for them. Let me
>know if I can clarify any questions you may
have.
>
>www.schilberg.com/Amsoil
>
>--Flash!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 23:59:34
+0100
From: "R e n a t o F R A N Z E L L I N" <
franzellin@monaco377.com>
Subject:
Team3S: high gasoline consumption Stealth
I have seen in your
fantastic data base, that there are a lot of sensors in
the motor, for
instance
barometer (altitude higher than 1200 meters),
air
temperatur,
volume air flow
water temperature
EGR temperature
oxygen
front
oxygen rear
...
and those sensors have different voltages
depending if the car was buid
before 1993 or later
Now the 3
questions:
1) a normal Mitsu Dealer, can test automatically all these
sensors,
receiving a clear information saying for instance that the
barometric sensor
does not
work, or he has to check each one ..?
2)
what is the "EGR" temperatur sensor?
3) Is there a sensor recognizing the
octans of the gasoline?
Grazie,
- Cordiali Saluti -
Salutations - Best Regards - Mit freundlichen Grüssen
-
Renato Franzellin (Monaco)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 15:27:28
-0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: high gasoline consumption Stealth
1) Yes and no, the dealer
can pull information from the ECU often in the
case of a total failure of a
sensor. But say your TPS has a "flat spot"
it will technically be "bad"
but is still partially functioning so it
won't throw a trouble code.
Something like that would have to be
detected directly at the sensor.
In the case of total destruction and
loss of signal the ECU will usually
throw a C/E light.
2) Monitors the operation of the EGR system by
detecting the temperature
of the gasses being circulated back into the
combustion process.
3) No. Octane is a measurement of how well gas
resists detonation.
There is no sensor on our cars to test that.
James
Mutton (vrrrr4)
95 3000GT VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of R e n a t o F R A N Z E L L I
N
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 4:00 PM
To: stealth dodge
Subject:
Team3S: high gasoline consumption Stealth
...
Now the 3
questions:
1) a normal Mitsu Dealer, can test automatically all these
sensors,
receiving a clear information saying for instance that the
barometric
sensor does not work, or he has to check each one ..?
2) what
is the "EGR" temperatur sensor?
3) Is there a sensor recognizing the octans
of the gasoline?
Grazie,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:28:03
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Street Overheating
Yes, this is exactly what is happening. I
drove home today tuning my AVC-R
in rush hour traffic. When I arrived, I
popped the hood open and let the
car run for 3 minutes. Then I shut down the
engine and started listening.
There was nothing for about 10 seconds and
then the water started boiling
under the fill cap. The circulation stopped
and the boiling started.
I guess there are only three ways to fix that.
Higher pressure cap, cooler
thermostat, or higher boiling point
coolant.
Philip
At 10:26 7/19/2002, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
>I think the temperature is just rising because the circulation has
stopped
>and there is no more cooling from the
radiator.
>
>However, you should make some effort to assure that the
coolant system is
>completely charged with fluid - it seems easy to me to
get big air pockets
>in there when you have to drain and refill
coolant.
>
>Chuck Willis
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
>Sent:
Thursday, July 18, 2002 9:04 AM
>To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
team3S@team3s.com; Philip V.
Glazatov
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Street
Overheating
>
>
>That's not uncommon --- when the car is
stopped the water stops
>circulating and absorbs the excess heat in the
block which can cause
>the water to boil...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 18:46:40
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: DSM BOV
Does anyone know if there is an adapter that I can buy
that will allow me to
use a standard DSM BOV?
I see that there are a
few out there for other BOVs but I'm not sure if any
will fit the DSM
one.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 21:03:22
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: DSM BOV
Don't waste your time... 2ng gen DSM BOV's
suck... and 1st gen dsm
BOV's need to be "crushed" to handle any boost
whatsoever... the 2nd
gen DSM'ers actually use VR4 BOV's as an
upgrade...
Just get a real BOV, and be done with it...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Friday, July
19, 2002 8:47 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: DSM BOV
Does anyone
know if there is an adapter that I can buy that will allow
me to
use a
standard DSM BOV?
I see that there are a few out there for other BOVs but
I'm not sure if
any
will fit the DSM one.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:20:38
-0700
From: John Sheehan <
Johns@KYSO.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60k
Parts source recommendations
Just got my email working again and I am
looking for recommended
source(s) to order my parts from to do my 60k timing
belts and water
pump, tensioner, etc.. Also plugs , wires, recommended tools
and Hard
copy manuals. I have checked the FAQ but would like to hear any
recent
experiences from people who have ordered these lately.
Any help
will be greatly appreciated !!! Thank you, John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 22:09:00
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: DSM BOV
> Don't waste your time... 2ng gen DSM BOV's
suck... and 1st gen dsm
> BOV's need to be "crushed" to handle any
boost whatsoever... the 2nd
> gen DSM'ers actually use VR4 BOV's as
an upgrade...
I keep hearing this from various people, but my 1G DSM
valve (completely
unmolested) holds past 25 psi when I'm using my intake
pressure tester with
the outlet of the BOV seeing atmospheric pressure.
I've never heard of a 1G
DSM valve holding less than 17 psi - which is plenty
for a typically tuned
street-driven 3/S. I personally think anything
other than the 1G DSM valve
is a waste of money that could be better spent
elsewhere.
The standard adaptors to fit a 1G DSM BOV on a 2G DSM will
work just fine.
If you have a 2G 3/S, you'll need to watch that the shift
linkages don't hit
the BOV.
I broke my car last weekend on the way to
the dragstrip. Leaving a stop
sign as I got through part of 3rd gear
something let go in the tranny. The
symptom was a strong vibration and
a "popping" noise as I got the car slowed
down. There's less vibration
when not accelerating. I suspect I may have
destroyed the spider gears
in the front differential. I'll be pulling the
car apart tomorrow to
try to find the exact cause.
Its too bad, too... Its the first time
the car has really been running
great since the rebuild. I had gapped
my plugs down to .028" from .034" and
the spark blowout problem I had been
having was completely gone. Just
running 14 psi on pump gas the car had
much more power than it ever has. I
was only four miles away from the
dragstrip when it happened. I can't wait
to get it fixed and try again
with 22 psi of boost and race fuel.
Since the car is broke, I didn't go
the Diamond Star Shootout. :-( I wish
those of you who went the
best of luck!
- -Matt
Broken '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 23:25:35
-0400
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: hot compression test-- should I even bother?
Hi Riyan,
I
have had engines with low compression readings before, and then I
realized, I
did not have the throttle plate blocked open. Sometimes we just
forget to do
it. I hope thats the case here, and your engine is not
worn
out.
Good Luck,
David Thrower
92 Stealth
R/T TT All stock
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Friday,
July 19, 2002 4:41 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: hot compression test--
should I even bother?
Hey guys,
I was at my auto shop class
yesterday and I ran a compression test on the
front bank (front 3 cylinders)
in my rt tt. The engine was "lukewarm". It
was hot enough that I couldn't put
my hand on it too long, but it was
definetely below operating temperature. My
front 3 cylinders came out to be
around 50 each!! Squirting some oil in
made them go up to about 60.
According to the book, spec is 156!! But only
after I was done did I read
that this test should be performed at operating
temp. These numbers are
awful low. Should I bother to run the test again at
operating temp, or just
find myself a new ride? Would a warm (rather than
hot) engine make that big
of a difference? It feels like it runs great, but
maybe I've just never felt
true power....
Riyan Mynuddin
93 stealth
rt tt
187,000 miles
about ready for the dumpster?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 21:23:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Street Overheating
Who says theres anything to
fix?
You cant remove heat from the block after you shut down the water
pump
(I just laid down a major hint for the "fix" there).
Water gets
heat soaked in the block/head, expands, and as its pushed past
the cap..the
pressure drops on the coolant and it flashes to steam to
the
tank.
When the motor cools down, it creates a vacum..and it sucks
back IN!
Again, if theres nothing broken, theres nothing to
fix.
On Fri, 19 Jul 2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> Yes, this
is exactly what is happening. I drove home today tuning my AVC-R
> in
rush hour traffic. When I arrived, I popped the hood open and let the
>
car run for 3 minutes. Then I shut down the engine and started listening.
> There was nothing for about 10 seconds and then the water started
boiling
> under the fill cap. The circulation stopped and the boiling
started.
>
> I guess there are only three ways to fix that. Higher
pressure cap, cooler
> thermostat, or higher boiling point
coolant.
>
> Philip
>
> At 10:26 7/19/2002, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
> >I think the temperature is just rising because the
circulation has stopped
> >and there is no more cooling from the
radiator.
> >
> >However, you should make some effort to
assure that the coolant system is
> >completely charged with fluid - it
seems easy to me to get big air pockets
> >in there when you have to
drain and refill coolant.
> >
> >Chuck Willis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 01:17:23
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
60k Parts source recommendations
Get 'em from Libertyville mitsu. They
have an absolutely horrible service
department (as all of them i guess) but
their parts people are actually
rather competent. They even let me in back
once when i was looking for a
missing nut, and didn't charge me for
it!
I can look up how much I paid, but they have a 3si discount of
roughly 25%
I used the FAQ on the team3s website in conjunction with some
printouts from
the manuals on cd.
It took me about a week, working a
couple of hours a day, without the
crankshaft holder tool. The team3s website
lists all the tools you need. If
you have an impact, you won't need the
crankshaft holder. Otherwise, it's
pretty hard to get that bolt off.
I
just did mine a few weeks ago, and have pics if you need 'em.
BTW, their
contact info (libertyville mitsu) should be on the
team3s
website.
Alex.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"John Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Friday, July 19, 2002 9:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: 60k Parts source
recommendations
> Just got my email working again and I am looking for
recommended
> source(s) to order my parts from to do my 60k timing belts
and water
> pump, tensioner, etc.. Also plugs , wires, recommended tools
and Hard
> copy manuals. I have checked the FAQ but would like to hear any
recent
> experiences from people who have ordered these lately.
>
Any help will be greatly appreciated !!! Thank you, John
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#902
***************************************