Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, July 18
2002 Volume 01 : Number
901
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Jul 2002 18:56:26 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
For Sale - EGR Block off plates
EGR is designed to reduce combustion
temps --- blocking the EGR will
probably result in higher exhaust gas
temps.
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
July 17, 2002 1:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: For Sale - EGR Block off plates
> Wow! Those sound great! I think they should reduce Plenum air temps
quite a
> bit, right? Way better deal than anywhere else? You got Pictures
for us Bob?
>
> Tyson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 23:34:57
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Exhaust
Hey guys stupid but important question-
If i were to get
the borla cat back, would my car sound like a ricer/honda
kids? its somthing
i would like to avoid.
I know it will be louder which i like, but i want
aggresive not uhh. .
.blender
thanx
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 00:03:02
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust
I have had Borla on both the N/A SL and my VR4 and I like
the sound much
better than the stock exhaust.. Most of the guys will
argue that you will
not see a performance increase until further down the
line in
modifications..
I got the Borla for the stainless
steel, the sound of a slightly deeper
rumble, and the look of the
larger dual single tips.. Yes, Its is louder
than stock..
In my opinion it does not sound like a Civic with a 6 inch
trashcan hanging
off the muffler.. It also does not sound sound like a
Mustang or
Camaro.. This is to be expected with a 6 cylinder 3.0 liter
engine..
The Ricer sound your referring to is to be expected with a 4
cylinder
engine... And yes, I too hate hearing the sound of a high-powered
lawn
mower screaming down the road.. Thats why I smoke them with
great
regularity when they think that exhaust system adds
150HP...
Scott
94 VR4
Borla Cat-Back among other
things...
Scott
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 00:10:50
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust
I would love to put a downpipe-i unfortounitly have a 97,
which means i have
an EGR valve and thus cant fit one on.
I did
already put a FIPK and an intake pipe, and the sound is much more
aggresive
at high revs, i want the exhaust for more bottom end sound+
performance.
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 01:08:25
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Street Overheating
I have been reading a lot about track overheating.
Now, my car did not
overheat on the track, but it could be getting close to
that on the street
after some moderate to aggressive driving in hot
weather.
After short and long drives I shut down the engine, open the
hood and hear
boiling fluid under the engine coolant filler cap. Anyone
heard that sound?
It gets louder when I drive longer. Weird. The stock temp
gauge reads the
usual 1/2, but the coolant boils a little. I might try the
stuff that
Trevor has,
http://www.evanscooling.com/main31.htm,
which is said to reduce
localized overheating and boiling by eliminating
"vapor barrier at the
metals surface".
Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 23:15:06
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: TT
Manifold repaired. Car overheating, using gas, Help! (was: stealth consumption
increase)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr.Ing. R e n a t o F
R A N Z E L L I N - Bureau d'Čtudes"
<
franzellin@monaco377.com>
>
after an exaust mannifold reparation through one authorised
Mitsubishi
dealer here in Monaco, my Stealth Turbo with 180000km
became 2 problems:
> 1) the gasoline consumption increased from 12
liters/100 km to 18
Liters/100 km but all stechiometer parameters are ok
-
-------------------------------------->
I think we need some more
information before we can give you an answer-- Did
the Mitsu dealer
give you a more free-flowing exhaust, or simply repair your
stock exhaust
manifold? A free flow exhaust can result in (slightly) higher
gas
consumption, but not 50% more!?
> 2) when the turbo is
only at 0 level, the speed only 130 Km/h and the
street is
mounting, the water temperature increases still the maximum,
stopping the air
conditioning, but when the street is flat within 30 seconds
the temperature
goes down and everything is normal.
-
------------------------------------->
If the temperature goes up to the
max when you're simply going up a hill at
130Km/h (~80mph) and then becomes
normal when the road is flat, it sounds like
the thermostat is not working,
or the cap is not sealing correctly. But I
can't imagine the dealer
missing that. Is it possible that the turbos are
clogged - do you use a
turbo timer to cool down after driving? I'm hoping
some of the turbo
owners chime in here...
> the mitsubishi dealer already:
>
a) changed one electronic card (i do not know which one but
expensive)
> b) polished with ultrawawes the injectors
> c)
changed the complete exaust pipeline
> d) checked all
parameters
> but now at 220000km the problems are still the sames
>
Please give me all kind of ideas. Thanks, Renato
(Monaco)
- ------------------------------------->
Have they checked the
compression? Do you have any smoke coming out of the
exhaust?
Again, I hope some of the engine experts on the list can give you
more input
than I can. I can't imagine either ultrasonic cleaning of the
injectors
or a new exhaust making you burn 50% more gas. The new electronics
card
is something to think - it IS possible that the new card is bad,
too.
Good luck,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 08:59:09
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Street Overheating
Philip -- before you go and guess what is
going on just get a real gauge
(AutoMeter Z-Series 52mm 10-250 F gauge from
Summit Racing was about $42
and included temp sender - and don't forget an
A-pillar gauge pod if you
need one). I just wired this up and have a
few pictures here,
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/cars/engine/engine.html,
and can detail more
of it later if anyone has questions (refer to Jeff
Lucius' page for
instructions of how to tap into the dimmer
switch).
My gauge has been reading 1/2 on stock but the real temp gauge
goes from
195 (highway cruising and temp the thermostat works at) to 210 F
then
225 F. Stock gauge never moves. The gurgling is fine as it
is the hot
liquid boiling over to the overflow tank. That is what the
overflow
tank and tube are designed for. When the car cools and needs
fluid
since it is almost empty it sucks it back in from the overflow
tank.
Don't worry.
And before switching to Evans (since it requires a
full-flush I recall)
buy a bottle of water wetter (Geoff Mohler has these)
and follow the
instructions. They say adding water wetter to antifreeze
is okay but
straight water plus a bottle of water wetter claims to lower
temps up to
20 degrees (YMMV). Maybe drive the car hard then get home,
put on
gloves, and undo the overflow tube and direct it into a jar and drain
a
however much the Water Wetter bottle says, pour in the Water Wetter,
go
drive again, come back, and see if the boiling sound is any louder
or
lasts any longer.
One question though, are you turning on the heat
when you get back home
to help the car pull the heat out of itself or just
sitting the car.
Remember that those turbo cars like to cool down the oil
some before
sitting for a night.
Anything is hard when you don't have
real temps on things.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2002
01:08
I have been reading a lot about track overheating. Now, my car did
not
overheat on the track, but it could be getting close to that on
the
street
after some moderate to aggressive driving in hot
weather.
After short and long drives I shut down the engine, open the
hood and
hear
boiling fluid under the engine coolant filler cap. Anyone
heard that
sound?
It gets louder when I drive longer. Weird. The stock
temp gauge reads
the
usual 1/2, but the coolant boils a little. I might
try the stuff that
Trevor has,
http://www.evanscooling.com/main31.htm,
which is said to
reduce
localized overheating and boiling by eliminating
"vapor barrier at the
metals surface".
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 07:04:08
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Street Overheating
That's not uncommon --- when the car is stopped the
water stops
circulating and absorbs the excess heat in the block which can
cause
the water to boil, I've heard it called
superheating.
Jim
Berry
=======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
July 17, 2002 10:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: Street Overheating
> I have
been reading a lot about track overheating. Now, my car did not
>
overheat on the track, but it could be getting close to that on the street
> after some moderate to aggressive driving in hot weather.
>
> After short and long drives I shut down the engine, open the hood and
hear
> boiling fluid under the engine coolant filler cap. Anyone heard
that sound?
> It gets louder when I drive longer. Weird. The stock temp
gauge reads the
> usual 1/2, but the coolant boils a little. I might try
the stuff that
> Trevor has,
http://www.evanscooling.com/main31.htm,
which is said to reduce
> localized overheating and boiling by
eliminating "vapor barrier at the
> metals surface".
>
>
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 12:32:38
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Street Overheating
Having a real gauge is good, I agree. A
fuel pressure gauge helped me
solve several fuel problems this
week.
Water Wetter is a good stuff, but it does not protect the metal
parts as
well as regular coolant. You still have to run it with some coolant
in
street cars, it says on the Water Wetter bottle. It increases
boiling
point by a couple dozen degrees, if I remember correctly, but not all
the
way to 375F, line Evans NPG+ does. Water Wetter main function is
to
decrease surface tension of the water or water/coolant, but Evans
says
that their coolant still has lower surface tension. Vaporization of
NPG+
is 1200 vs 88 (degrees?), which they say is very important. The
specific
heat is 0.7 vs. 0.7 of coolant/water and 1.0 of water, but they say
that
in real life on an engine application the specific heat goes to
an
equivalent of 0.6, so their NPG+ is still superior. I am allowed to
run
coolant for pretty much all racing events that I am planning
to
participate in, so using should not be a problem. I would like to get
the
best stuff I can get.
I have not heard the Water Wetter (Red Line)
side of the story, but based
on what I heard of it, there is not dramatic
night-and-day kind of
improvement with it. Anyone wants to say something good
about the water
cooler? In a cooling system I am looking for something that
would solve
the problem once and forever so that I could forget about it, at
least
until I have a 600-HP car.
The only thing that I am now thinking
is how to drain the old coolant. It
have to be drained completely. If the GM
coolant was used, it has to be
flushed, but with any other coolant, it could
be just drained. How do I
drain the coolant out of the block and the heater?
I saw a link on
someone's website yesterday, but it was
dead.
Philip
-
---------------------------------------------------------
And before
switching to Evans (since it requires a full-flush I recall)
buy a bottle of
water wetter (Geoff Mohler has these) and follow the
instructions. They
say adding water wetter to antifreeze is okay but
straight water plus a
bottle of water wetter claims to lower temps up to
20 degrees (YMMV).
Maybe drive the car hard then get home, put on
gloves, and undo the overflow
tube and direct it into a jar and drain a
however much the Water Wetter
bottle says, pour in the Water Wetter, go
drive again, come back, and see if
the boiling sound is any louder or
lasts any longer.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 12:36:24
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Street Overheating
I do not like that "superheating". I have
not had it on any of my other
cars. I want to get rid of it, I think it is a
sign of "overheating".
Philip
-
--------------------------------------------------------
That's not
uncommon --- when the car is stopped the water stops
circulating and absorbs
the excess heat in the block which can cause
the water to boil, I've heard it
called superheating.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 12:41:41
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Street Overheating
>Anyone wants to say something good
about the water
>cooler?
I meant to say Water
Wetter,
ROFLMAO!!!
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 11:38:19
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
FOR SALE - 92 VR4 w/9,800 mi. - excellent condition!
Hi all,
I'm
posting this for a friend - serious inquiries only. Please send
all
inquiries to me privately.
He's not quite sure what price
to ask - blue book value is about $11,500.
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4
Black with Tan interior
Sunroof
Mileage: approx. 9,800 orig.
mi.
Excellent condition
garage kept - weekend driver, one owner, never
seen snow
Northern Chicagoland area
Make an offer - he is willing to
be flexible.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 10:08:37
-0700
From: Tryon David PHCA <
TryonD@phdnswc.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Infinity Amp Wiring Request
Against my better judgement I went
and bought an Infinity CD/cassette double
DIN head unit and Infinity amp
(mounts under passenger seat) for the 2G
3000GT/Eclipse and am looking into
installing it in my 91 Stealth. My
factory manual only covers the 91
model year and I need the page showing the
Infinity amp and radio wiring from
a 2G 3000GT manual. It looks like the
amp connector is wired back to
the radio harness for power and speaker
connections. Can anyone email
me the shop manual page(s) with this info?
Anyone else care to talk me out of
it?
Dave /'91 base Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 11:11:51
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
MAS
Okay, so i got a KN cone and adapter and started to install it, just
to find
out that the four bolts holding the MAS to the air box cover are
just
spinning through. The little plastic ridges on the inside that are
supposed
to prevent it from spinning just sort of got crushed. I took it to a
shop.
They undid the top two and said "we can't get a pair of pliers to fit
over
the bottom ones so ... you're out of luck. Take it to satan"
I
really would rather not do that. Is there anything else i can do?
How
much does the MAS cost? Will a mas from an SL work on a VR4 (I can get
my
hands on one of those for cheap)
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 13:24:49
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: MAS
If you have to destroy something to undo the bolts, do
not destroy the
MAS. Destroy the air box. You won't need it anyway after you
install your
K&N. Once you break it, you would be able to grab those bolt
with either a
wrench or pliers, or even put them in a vice if you have
to.
Philip
- ----------------------------------------
Okay,
so i got a KN cone and adapter and started to install it, just to
find
out
that the four bolts holding the MAS to the air box cover are just
spinning
through. The little plastic ridges on the inside that are
supposed
to
prevent it from spinning just sort of got crushed. I took it to a shop.
They
undid the top two and said "we can't get a pair of pliers to fit over
the
bottom ones so ... you're out of luck. Take it to satan"
I really would
rather not do that. Is there anything else i can do?
How much does the
MAS cost? Will a mas from an SL work on a VR4 (I can get
my hands on one of
those for cheap)
Thanks,
Alex
'95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 11:34:31
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS
+> Okay, so i got a KN cone and adapter and started
to install it, just to find
+> out that the four bolts holding the MAS to
the air box cover are just
+> spinning through. The little plastic ridges
on the inside that are supposed
+> to prevent it from spinning just sort
of got crushed. I took it to a shop.
+> They undid the top two and said
"we can't get a pair of pliers to fit over
+> the bottom ones so ...
you're out of luck. Take it to satan"
+>
+> I really would rather
not do that. Is there anything else i can do?
+>
+> How much does
the MAS cost? Will a mas from an SL work on a VR4 (I can get
+> my hands
on one of those for cheap)
+>
+> Thanks,
+>
+> Alex
+>
+> '95 VR4
get a
pair of vise-grips and some liquid-wrench. then get another
shop.
yeesh.
they can be a pain to get off, but you've already done most of
the
likely damage to the air-box already, so get tough with it.
some
people have reported having to actually destroy the cover to get
the
nuts off, but with both VR4s I've owned, only one nut spun in
the plastic
"ridges". vise-grips, some penetrant, and a little
patience took care
of it. be careful of the honeycombs in the
MAS though. they're
really delicate.
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 10:43:53
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: MAS
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
> Okay, so i got a
KN cone and adapter and started to install it, just to find
out that the four
bolts holding the MAS to the air box cover are just spinning
through. The
little plastic ridges on the inside that are supposed to prevent
it from
spinning just sort of got crushed. I took it to a shop. They undid the
top
two and said "we can't get a pair of pliers to fit over the bottom ones
so
... you're out of luck. Take it to satan"
> I really would rather
not do that. Is there anything else i can do?
> How much does the MAS
cost? Will a mas from an SL work on a VR4 (I can get
> my hands on one of
those for cheap)
- ---------------------------------->
You can do
what many of the rext of us have done - cut the airbox! They've
already
ruined it by crushing the plastic retainers, so it no longer has any
value as
a "stock" item. So you might as well cut the around the remaining
bolts
and completely trash the box. And once you feel the difference in
power
by adding the more free-flowing K&N, you won't ever want to replace
the stock
airbox anyway. You might have a problem passing emissions,
BTW, (depending on
what state you're in), since the K&N cone is not
street legal. The only one
that is street-legal in 50 states is the
K&N FIPK. But that depends on who is
doing the testing and your
state laws...
You also asked about replacing the MAS. A new MAS is
several hundred $, if I
recall. I don't know if an SL version is
compatible. Cheapest would be
through
a "recycler" (junkyard).
Many of us have used M&S recycling in the Pacific
NW, but we have
hundreds of recyclers listed all over the US on our
Replacement Parts
page. The link is on the FAQ page, in the Basics section...
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmGood
luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 11:11:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Street Overheating
> Water Wetter is a good stuff, but it
does not protect the metal parts as
> well as regular coolant. You still
have to run it with some coolant in
> street cars, it says on the Water
Wetter bottle. It increases boiling
- ---
The bottle says that, because
Redline would like to belive that everyone
swaps coolant once a year..but in
reality they dont.
WW and plain water is a perfectly safe alternative for
those who dont get
freezing temps..and do GOOD maintenance.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 11:14:38
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS
I have a MAS sitting in the garage from a 92 TT....50
bucks and it is
yours....some fins are bent but very slightly.....you can
straighten
them out with an allen wrench very easily....email me privately
if
your interested......
bobk.
9399R/T
- ---- Original
Message ----
From:
bf@bobforrest.comTo:
pedenkoa@msu.edu,
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
MAS
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 10:43:53 -0700
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
>> Okay, so i
got a KN cone and adapter and started to install it,
>just to
find
>out that the four bolts holding the MAS to the air box cover are
>just spinning
>through. The little plastic ridges on the inside
that are supposed
>to prevent
>it from spinning just sort of got
crushed. I took it to a shop. They
>undid the
>top two and said "we
can't get a pair of pliers to fit over the
>bottom ones so
>...
you're out of luck. Take it to satan"
>> I really would rather not do
that. Is there anything else i can do?
>> How much does the MAS cost?
Will a mas from an SL work on a VR4 (I
>can get
>> my hands on
one of those for
cheap)
>---------------------------------->
>
>You can do
what many of the rext of us have done - cut the airbox!
>They've
>already ruined it by crushing the plastic retainers, so
it no longer
>has any
>value as a "stock" item. So you might
as well cut the around the
>remaining
>bolts and completely trash
the box. And once you feel the
>difference in power
>by
adding the more free-flowing K&N, you won't ever want to replace
>the
stock
>airbox anyway. You might have a problem passing emissions,
BTW,
>(depending on
>what state you're in), since the K&N cone
is not street legal. The
>only one
>that is street-legal in
50 states is the K&N FIPK. But that depends
>on who
is
>doing the testing and your state laws...
>
>You also asked
about replacing the MAS. A new MAS is several
>hundred $, if
I
>recall. I don't know if an SL version is compatible.
Cheapest
>would be
>through
>a "recycler" (junkyard).
Many of us have used M&S recycling in the
>Pacific
>NW, but we
have hundreds of recyclers listed all over the US on our
>Replacement
Parts page. The link is on the FAQ page, in the Basics
>section...
>www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm
>
>Good
luck!
>Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 14:07:09
-0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
Are there any recommended oil products
for the Stealth/3000GT TT.
Is there any pro/con for putting Red Line 20w50
Synthetic for the
summer??
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 12:57:44
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: FOR SALE - 92 VR4 w/9,800 mi. - excellent condition!
I forgot to add
that this car is completely stock - no problems ever
experienced.
If
you are interested, send me a reasonable offer and I will present it
to
him.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT)
Sent: Thursday, July
18, 2002 11:38 AM
To: Team3s (E-mail);
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject: FOR
SALE - 92 VR4 w/9,800 mi. - excellent condition!
Hi all,
I'm
posting this for a friend - serious inquiries only. Please send
all
inquiries to me privately.
He's not quite sure what price
to ask - blue book value is about $11,500.
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4
Black with Tan interior
Sunroof
Mileage: approx. 9,800 orig.
mi.
Excellent condition
garage kept - weekend driver, one owner, never
seen snow
Northern Chicagoland area
Make an offer - he is willing to
be flexible.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 14:50:57
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
pedenkoa@msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Mobil1
Just in case I'm not the only one who didn't know this - Target
sells Mobil1
full synthetic. I just went out and bougt some 15w50 for
3.47/bottle...
That's a little less than what I've paid at Pep Boys and the
like...
Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 12:55:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: MAS
Ok if all else goes bad, you can get a new MAS from a
link
in the links section. I have used M&S Recycling
and have not had any
problems with them so far.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 12:55:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: MAS
Ok if all else goes bad, you can get a new MAS from a
link
in the links section. I have used M&S Recycling
and have not had any
problems with them so far.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 17:12:57
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
Ben - I personally recommend the Amsoil
10W-30 line and you can find a
link to it on my site below. Please
contact me with any further
questions you may have.
There is nothing
wrong with RedLine but I have been happy since
switching to Amsoil that there
is no lifter tick and can go longer
intervals before changing (as per an
independent lab study on the oil).
Also, the 10W-30 weight is recommended
unless you are doing some serious
open track events and need the high heat
from the 20W-50.
I know people have been satisfied with Mobil 1, RedLine,
and Amsoil but
I offer this because I have it in my car and it works for what
the car
is put through.
But feel free to contact me and I'll discuss
the Amsoil options with
you. I am not an employee of Amsoil but have
tried their products and
they work well plus the people are quite
helpful. I would suggest
taking a sample of your oil now and then drive
the same harshness and
distance and test the Amsoil oil. That will be
the best comparison as
all cars are different.
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/Amsoil-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ben M. Jones
Sent:
Thursday, July 18, 2002 14:07
Are there any recommended oil products for
the Stealth/3000GT TT. Is
there any pro/con for putting Red Line 20w50
Synthetic for the summer??
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 18:01:20
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: MAS
The same thing happened to me when i installed the FIPK. I
got my friend to
hold the nut itself with vice grips right around the edges.
. .then i pretty
much used all my strength to loosen it. Just be careful not
to damage the
honeycombs inside the MAS.
Believe me, you can do it
yourself without taking it to Mitsu. . its more
plesant to struggle with the
box, then with them. . .
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 19:28:59
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Street Overheating
Don't forget people, some
tracks do not allow antifreeze because of the
mess when it is spilled on a
track. Water evaporates. Antifreeze is
slick and a mess to clean
up. It is not always because the driver wants
it in there. Racing
engines or track cars wear out faster because of
things like this.
After the race season you go back to antifreeze and
save the wear on metal
for 8 more months then drain and go to
water+water wetter for race
season. When you spill coolant you don't
get it on your windshield or
tires. The drivers behind you do. They
would much rather you have
water in there than antifreeze.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSent:
Thursday, July 18, 2002 12:33
Water Wetter is a good stuff, but it does
not protect the metal parts as
well as regular coolant. You still have to run
it with some coolant in
street cars, it says on the Water Wetter bottle. It
increases boiling
point by a couple dozen degrees, if I remember correctly,
but not all
the way to 375F, line Evans NPG+ does. Water Wetter main function
is to
decrease surface tension of the water or water/coolant, but Evans
says
that their coolant still has lower surface tension. Vaporization of
NPG+
is 1200 vs 88 (degrees?), which they say is very important. The
specific
heat is 0.7 vs. 0.7 of coolant/water and 1.0 of water, but they say
that
in real life on an engine application the specific heat goes to
an
equivalent of 0.6, so their NPG+ is still superior. I am allowed to
run
coolant for pretty much all racing events that I am planning
to
participate in, so using should not be a problem. I would like to
get
the best stuff I can get.
I have not heard the Water Wetter (Red
Line) side of the story, but
based on what I heard of it, there is not
dramatic night-and-day kind of
improvement with it. Anyone wants to say
something good about the water
cooler? In a cooling system I am looking for
something that would solve
the problem once and forever so that I could
forget about it, at least
until I have a 600-HP car.
The only thing
that I am now thinking is how to drain the old coolant.
It have to be drained
completely. If the GM coolant was used, it has to
be flushed, but with any
other coolant, it could be just drained. How do
I drain the coolant out of
the block and the heater? I saw a link on
someone's website yesterday, but it
was dead.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 19:48:57
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil Grades - Recommended
Typo on the web address in the original
email. It is on my personal
site and not the Team3S site. Also,
I'm not affiliated at all with
Amsoil but used their product and it
worked. If I had used a Mobil 1
system to run through the car then I
would have a page for them. Let me
know if I can clarify any questions
you may have.
www.schilberg.com/Amsoil-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Thursday, July 18, 2002 17:13
Ben - I personally recommend the Amsoil
10W-30 line and you can find a
link to it on my site below. Please
contact me with any further
questions you may have.
There is nothing
wrong with RedLine but I have been happy since
switching to Amsoil that there
is no lifter tick and can go longer
intervals before changing (as per an
independent lab study on the oil).
Also, the 10W-30 weight is recommended
unless you are doing some serious
open track events and need the high heat
from the 20W-50.
I know people have been satisfied with Mobil 1, RedLine,
and Amsoil but
I offer this because I have it in my car and it works for what
the car
is put through.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ben M. Jones
Sent:
Thursday, July 18, 2002 14:07
Are there any recommended oil products for
the Stealth/3000GT TT. Is
there any pro/con for putting Red Line 20w50
Synthetic for the summer??
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 17:15:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Street Overheating
Well..except for bikes, ive
not known one to ban cars..just a recommended
practice.
On Thu, 18 Jul
2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:
> Don't forget people, some tracks do
not allow antifreeze because of the
> mess when it is spilled on a
track. Water evaporates. Antifreeze is
> slick and a mess to
clean up. It is not always because the driver wants
> it in
there. Racing engines or track cars wear out faster because of
>
things like this. After the race season you go back to antifreeze
and
> save the wear on metal for 8 more months then drain and go
to
> water+water wetter for race season. When you spill coolant you
don't
> get it on your windshield or tires. The drivers behind you
do. They
> would much rather you have water in there than
antifreeze.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2002 12:33
>
> Water Wetter is a good
stuff, but it does not protect the metal parts as
> well as regular
coolant. You still have to run it with some coolant in
> street cars, it
says on the Water Wetter bottle. It increases boiling
> point by a couple
dozen degrees, if I remember correctly, but not all
> the way to 375F,
line Evans NPG+ does. Water Wetter main function is to
> decrease surface
tension of the water or water/coolant, but Evans says
> that their coolant
still has lower surface tension. Vaporization of NPG+
> is 1200 vs 88
(degrees?), which they say is very important. The specific
> heat is 0.7
vs. 0.7 of coolant/water and 1.0 of water, but they say that
> in real
life on an engine application the specific heat goes to an
> equivalent of
0.6, so their NPG+ is still superior. I am allowed to run
> coolant for
pretty much all racing events that I am planning to
> participate in, so
using should not be a problem. I would like to get
> the best stuff I can
get.
>
> I have not heard the Water Wetter (Red Line) side of the
story, but
> based on what I heard of it, there is not dramatic
night-and-day kind of
> improvement with it. Anyone wants to say something
good about the water
> cooler? In a cooling system I am looking for
something that would solve
> the problem once and forever so that I could
forget about it, at least
> until I have a 600-HP car.
>
>
The only thing that I am now thinking is how to drain the old coolant.
>
It have to be drained completely. If the GM coolant was used, it has to
>
be flushed, but with any other coolant, it could be just drained. How do
>
I drain the coolant out of the block and the heater? I saw a link on
>
someone's website yesterday, but it was dead.
***
Got Brakes? Need
better brakes?
Send Email to:
orders@speedtoys.com with any inquiries.
(only this addr)
Reseller oppourtunities
available.
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 20:39:05
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Street Overheating
No, not ban as much as you are
made well-aware of it just like driving
with a Snell 95 helmet when it is
supposed to be a Snell 2000 helmet or
a mechanic suit instead of a Nomex
suit. Each organization is different
obviously (NASA, HPDE, SCCA,
etc.).
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
Sent:
Thursday, July 18, 2002 20:15
Well..except for bikes, ive not known one
to ban cars..just a
recommended practice.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 23:09:41
-0400
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear half shaft
Hi Everyone,
Just for your information, I did
the replacement of the right rear inner CV
joint boot tonight on our Stealth.
It was very simple. The shaft popped
right out of the differental, after
unbolting it from the axle shaft. Very
easy to change. Worst part was the
$92.00 price of the boot kit from my
local Dodge dealer. No aftermarket
places showed any listing for this part.
Outer boots! No problem, $25.00.
Can't understand why? Maybee someone knows.
Has enyone else had to change
one? Oh yes, there is no listing anywhere for
a "Split" repair boot
either.
Comments Appreciated,
David Thrower
92
Stealth R/T TT All Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#901
***************************************