Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 17
2002 Volume 01 : Number
900
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Jul 2002 17:39:59 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: 6 month old Optima Battery
Well, I had an offer two weeks
ago, but I haven't been able to contact
that buyer since I got the battery
pulled out of the car... I have a
li'l more info now that it's in my
hands... It's a Yellow Top
(deep-cycle, but was in the trunk of my car
used as a starting battery,
has never been fully discharged), 950 CA, 750
CCA, and a capacity of 65
Ah... and is in great condition except for a few
scratches along the
bottom edge... Terminals are in perfect condition,
and has both top and
side mount terminals... All stickers are in
perfect condition and are
still intact... Information can be found at
www.optimabatteries.comThe
model number is D34/78-950, which I can't locate on their website,
but
information for lesser models is listed... For a little
more
info, it has 124 minute reserve capacity, and is non-spillable...
it
can literally be mounted upside down with no negative
effects...
Questions, or offers, e-mail
overclck@satx.rr.com-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 20:22:31
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
> > Also try running a vacuum
hose straight from the
> > throttle body lines to the fuel pressure
regulator,
> > bypassing the FPR solenoid.
Tried and there was
no change. What is that FPR solenoid for at
all???
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 00:57:20
+0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Familjen_H=F6rtin?= <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Dodge Stealth ES 1991
Hello
I have sent mail to some partsdealer
in US about a front driverside
foglight.
My is rosty and it not possible
to open.
And that black round thing in the middle of the wheel. Dodge is
written on
it.Original wheels.
In sweden its called "navkapsel" and if if
i translate it it will be
something like "centercap".
The anser is no
parts.
In sweden the cars must have orange blinkers. Cant find original
orange
blinkers to Dodge Stealth ES.
My renovation is going well
thanks to
www.stealth-3000gt.st site
and some
other pages.
So i say thanks to all Stealth and 3000GT
owner.
How many ES is still running at the streets? Just over 16000 has been
made.
At the moment just the "navkapsel" is
missing.
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 19:52:13
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
I have my new RPS 6 puck sprung clutch in
now. It seems that I replaced my
clutch just in time. My old one
had less than half a millimeter before it
would have scored my fly
wheel.
The new clutch feels like it is grabbing more than my old
one. It is hard
for me to say for sure since I have never had a 6 puck
clutch and my stock
one was slipping since I bought the car in
December. I did have to adjust
my pedal free play. I guess that
can be expected going to a different
clutch. I bleed the clutch just in
case but it didn't need bleeding. I did
try to run 15 psi of boost in
5th gear to see if the new clutch would slip
the the old one. I blew my
&^%$#@ Y pipe off driving home in rush hour
traffic. Once I got
home and installed a Pepsi(tm) 1 liter bottle to hold
it on, I was able to
run 15 psi of boost and do a 5000 rpm AWD launch. I'm
happy.
The
work was done by the Clutch House of Citrus Heights (a suburb
of
Sacramento). Overal the work is good. The mechanic ran into
trouble
removing my DP from the front pre-cat. I left instruction to
remove the
front pre-cat with the DP but he did not recieve it. That
cost them about
an hour more labor cutting a rusty stud out of the pre-cat
and installing a
bolt. I was not charged for that. I found it
curious that they put high
temperature RTV on all my exhaust gaskets when
they reinstalled my exhaust.
The mechanic did catch a problem that could
potentially cost me a lot of
money in the future. My carriers on my
drive shaft going to my rear
differential are shot. They both have over
1" of play in them. I will have
them replace my carriers this friday
for $330 parts included.
Total bill was $317 for labor, throwout bearing
and tax.
Contact info for the Clutch House
is:
(916)722-7774
7208 Auburn Blvd.
Citrus Heights, CA
95610
The manager's name is Ray.
They also have other shops in
Santa Cruz, Fresno, Reno, Bakersfield and
Carson City.
I don't know if
the other shops will give you the same deal as this one gave
me but it is
worth a shot.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC,
K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, gutted
pre-cats, Custom 3" cat back,
high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen
cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines, DSM 450cc injectors,
Direct Hits ignition system, Thermo
Tec exhaust wrap, RPS 6 puck street
clutch.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 21:12:45
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
Wow. That is a great price. I hope to not need
a new clutch for another 100K
miles but I'd drive to this place at that
price...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 7/16/02 8:52 PM,
dakken at
dougusmagnus@attbi.com
scribbled:
> I have my new RPS 6 puck sprung clutch in now. It
seems that I replaced my
> clutch just in time. My old one had less
than half a millimeter before it
> would have scored my fly wheel.
>
> The new clutch feels like it is grabbing more than my old one. It
is hard
> for me to say for sure since I have never had a 6 puck clutch
and my stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 22:35:53
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
> I did try to run 15 psi of boost in 5th
gear to see if the
> new clutch would slip the the old one. I blew
my
> &^%$#@ Y pipe off driving home in rush hour traffic.
> Once
I got home and installed a Pepsi(tm) 1 liter bottle
> to hold it on, I was
able to run 15 psi of boost and do
> a 5000 rpm AWD launch. I'm
happy.
You just put in a brand new clutch and you are doing 5000 RPM
launches?
Hope you don't need the clutch to last long. You really need
to break it in
easy for the first 300-500 miles if you want it to
last.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 21:00:03
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
> You just put in a brand new clutch
and you are doing 5000 RPM launches?
That was launch. Not
launches. I wanted to push the clutch a little to be
sure that it was
installed correctly. I do know about breaking it in and
I'm going to be
babying it for the next two tanks of gas ~ 500 miles. I
don't think
that doing a single launch will hurt it. If it dies in 10,000
miles
then I'll say, "Dang. Maybe I shouldn't have done that launch on
the
same day it was installed." I don't think that will happen
though.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, gutted
pre-cats, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen
cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake lines, DSM 450cc injectors,
Direct Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec
exhaust wrap, RPS 6 puck street
clutch.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 00:44:36
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FS: 6 month old Optima Battery
Guys,
For those of you who
have never considered an Optima, I will be the first to
say its worth the
extra $.. I have a red top and it is a world of
difference especially
in colder climates.. I personally bought the red top
for the longer
free replacement warranty, but for those of you with stereos
the yellow is
the way to go..
Scott
94 VR4
with recently satan installed
alternator and
free replacement Optima red top
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 00:32:07
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Sway Bar, Round II
I had the same problem. What worked for
me is to barley thread in each one,
just a couple threads until i had all 4
started.
Jack
At 12:52 PM 7/16/02 -0700, Gross, Erik
wrote:
>Ok, so I got the spacers in between the crossmember and the
bushing brackets
>and the clearances are ok. However, now the
problem is that the holes in
>the bracket/spacer don't exactly line up
with the holes in the crossmember.
>They're not off by much, but it's
enough that I can't thread the lower bolt
>in. If I use a pry bar to
move the bracket inboard 1/8" I can get the bolt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 09:42:43
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FS: 6 month old Optima Battery
I killed 2 Optimas red top
within 6 months. As well in the Camaro and the
3s, booth began to cook.
Nothing abnormal till then, and I swaered for
them... not
anymore.
Back to a good European battery with the same size and
everything is fine.
SOme made the same experience here and Optima is loosing
the market. Maybe
the lowered the quality ...
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
To: "3S" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 17, 2002 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: FS: 6 month old Optima
Battery
> Guys,
>
> For those of you who have never
considered an Optima, I will be the first
to
> say its worth the extra
$.. I have a red top and it is a world of
> difference especially in
colder climates.. I personally bought the red
top
> for the
longer free replacement warranty, but for those of you with
stereos
>
the yellow is the way to go..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:27:25
-0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle % ?
I'm trying to figure out what my IDC is
based on the readings from my
pocklogger. the Logger reports injector pulse
width. I know that the idc is
a repesnts a % of the max pulse that the
injector can handle.
My question. What is the max pulse width on stock
360 injectors?
IDC = IPW/ ???
I looked at stealth316.com and could
not find the answer.
Thanks
Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:15:33
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FS: 6 month old Optima Battery
As Roger points out, sealed
lead acid (SLA) batteries, such as the Optima, do
not tolerate hot
temperatures (we are talking over 80º-100ºF) or over-charging
(never exceed
15 volts).
Much more info on SLA batteries (specifics for Hawker
batteries but info
applies to all SLA batteries):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htmDetailed
specs for some SLA batteries (Excel spreadsheet):
http://www.stealth316.com/misc/sla-batts.xlsTips
for moving the battery to the rear compartment, the best place for SLA
batteries:
http://www.stealth316.com/misc/sla-batts.xlsJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: "3S"
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 17, 2002 1:42 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: FS: 6 month old Optima
Battery
I killed 2 Optimas red top within 6 months. As well in the Camaro
and the
3s, booth began to cook. Nothing abnormal till then, and I swaered
for
them... not anymore.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:29:18
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle % ?
The answer is in the fifth paragraph
on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo2.htm"The
injector duty cycle (IDC) in percent is determined by multiplying the RPM
times the IPW and dividing by 1200. "
Example: 6000 RPM x 14 ms IPW /
1200 = 70% IDC
I have seen IDC over 100% for my stock TT injectors. Of
course, 100% is open
all the time, but the over-100% request by the ECM
indicates the ECM is
begging for more fuel. :) Some references and tests
indicate that an injector
may flow less fuel above ~95% IDC than at ~95%
IDC. The injector solenoid may
overheat if used continuously at high IDC
(greater than 80-90%?). There is
also a sweet spot for injectors were flow
and pattern is most consistent.
Supposedly it is determined by on-car
testing and is in the range of 60-80%. I
have no idea how a person could
*easily* determine this on their car.
More info on our injectors:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-injectortypes.htmInfo
on fuel injection control in our cars:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
To: "tam 3S"
<
Team3S@team3s.com>; <
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 17, 2002 8:27 AM
Subject: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle %
?
I'm trying to figure out what my IDC is based on the readings from
my
pocklogger. the Logger reports injector pulse width. I know that the
idc is
a repesnts a % of the max pulse that the injector can
handle.
My question. What is the max pulse width on stock 360
injectors?
IDC = IPW/ ???
I looked at stealth316.com and could not
find the answer.
Thanks
Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:47:05
-0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle % ?
Ah, it was under the tmo stuff.
Thanks.
Does anyone know what the 1200 repsents ?
Alan
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle % ?
> The answer is in the fifth
paragraph on my web page below.
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo2.htm>
>
"The injector duty cycle (IDC) in percent is determined by multiplying
the
RPM
> times the IPW and dividing by 1200. "
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:55:15
-0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <
jd@edge-software.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale: 95 VR4 Spyder, 13.5K miles w/99 Frontend...
Well, it's
finally up for sale:
1995 3000GT VR4 Spyder, 13,575 miles,
$35,000
I've looked at the current prices (couldn't find many out there
right now,
mostly on autotrader), but based on what I've seen, and the low
miles/uniqueness of the car... I think it's a fair price.
http://www.clan-davidson.com/jd/forsale/Email
me directly at:
jd@edge-software.com
if you're interested.
Thanks!
-JD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:19:52
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch work in Sac and AC Relays
Thanks for the update Dakken. I
have put the clutch house into my rolodex.
Here is an update on my AC
Relays. Tallahassee Mitsu sent me the relays. I
put them in last night (all 4
in the same box) and today my AC is working
perfectly. Total costs - 26
bucks. If anyone is having AC problems it seems
a cheap fix and even if
replacing the relays is not the fix they probably
need replacing anyway if
your car is as old as mine. (1993 AWD TT STealth).
Andy
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 16, 2002 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch work in
Sac
| I have my new RPS 6 puck sprung clutch in now. It seems that
I replaced
my
| clutch just in time. My old one had less than half a
millimeter before it
| would have scored my fly wheel.
|
| The new
clutch feels like it is grabbing more than my old one. It is hard
| for
me to say for sure since I have never had a 6 puck clutch and my stock
| one
was slipping since I bought the car in December. I did have to adjust
|
my pedal free play. I guess that can be expected going to a different
|
clutch. I bleed the clutch just in case but it didn't need bleeding.
I
did
| try to run 15 psi of boost in 5th gear to see if the new clutch
would slip
| the the old one. I blew my &^%$#@ Y pipe off driving
home in rush hour
| traffic. Once I got home and installed a Pepsi(tm)
1 liter bottle to hold
| it on, I was able to run 15 psi of boost and do a
5000 rpm AWD launch.
I'm
| happy.
|
| The work was done by the
Clutch House of Citrus Heights (a suburb of
| Sacramento). Overal the
work is good. The mechanic ran into trouble
| removing my DP from the
front pre-cat. I left instruction to remove the
| front pre-cat with
the DP but he did not recieve it. That cost them about
| an hour more
labor cutting a rusty stud out of the pre-cat and installing
a
|
bolt. I was not charged for that. I found it curious that they put
high
| temperature RTV on all my exhaust gaskets when they reinstalled
my
exhaust.
|
| The mechanic did catch a problem that could potentially
cost me a lot of
| money in the future. My carriers on my drive shaft
going to my rear
| differential are shot. They both have over 1" of
play in them. I will
have
| them replace my carriers this friday for
$330 parts included.
|
| Total bill was $317 for labor, throwout bearing
and tax.
|
| Contact info for the Clutch House is:
|
|
(916)722-7774
| 7208 Auburn Blvd.
| Citrus Heights, CA 95610
|
| The
manager's name is Ray.
|
| They also have other shops in Santa Cruz,
Fresno, Reno, Bakersfield and
| Carson City.
|
| I don't know if the
other shops will give you the same deal as this one
gave
| me but it is
worth a shot.
|
| Doug
| 92 Stealth RT TT
| Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC,
K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, gutted
| pre-cats, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump,
Stillen
| cross drilled
rotors, 3SX SS braided brake lines, DSM 450cc injectors,
| Direct Hits
ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap, RPS 6 puck street
|
clutch.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 17:26:02
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle % ?
>> Does anyone know what the
1200 repsents?
Of course! It just keeps the units straight. Remember,
there are two engine
revolutions between starts of the combustion stroke. So
the injectors have
720º of crank rotation during which to fire.
60
(sec/min) times 1000 (ms/sec) times 2 (revs/cycle) divided by 100 (to get
percent).
More on timing events (including fuel injection) for our
cars:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-timing.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 17, 2002 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle %
?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 14:59:18
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: SOLVED!!! (Re: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems)
I found the root
cause of my multiple problems. It was a leaky fuel pump
O-ring, which caused
internal fuel leak and low fuel pressure. All the
problems are gone now. The
car starts after one revolution (1), no
acceleration enrichment problem (2),
and I have my S-AFC set at -26% and I
reach 0.96V O2 voltage at the red line
(3)!
I did some cool testing before and after. I disconnected the fuel
return
line and ran my Supra pump from the battery with the car off. The
pump
filled half a bottle of 93 Octane Martini in 20 minutes - only 67.5
lph
@43 psi. After I fixed the seal, the pump filled a full bottle in
15
seconds - 180 lph! Not the advertised 255 lph, but this 43 psi is not
at
the pump but in the fuel rail after the fuel travelled through a bunch
of
fuel lines and the fuel filter. If this flow is low, I will now
notice
because I have a fuel pressure gauge and an O2 gauge.
I found
the seal leak by dipping the pump assembly into a bucket of water,
supplying
12V to it, and closing the pump assy outlet with a finger. The
water was
gushing from under the seal like crazy! The seal was not
damaged, but is was
either rolled or undersized. It is not that hard to
install that seal
incorrectly because the engineers did not think long
enough about the ease of
installation.
I did not have a replacement thicker seal, so I just
wrapped the pump stem
with about 1.0 mm of Teflon tape to make it thicker and
installed the
O-ring over it. I used a flat screwdriver and some motor oil to
assist
installation. I tested the assembly and the only leak was from the
pump
pressure relief valve.
Now my differential fuel pressure gauge
reads 42-46 psi during all driving
conditions. The fuel pressure stays high
long after I shut down the engine
(I still had some fuel pressure after the
car sat overnight!) The car
drives smoothly. I think I am now ready to start
tuning.
Great thanks to Damon Rachell and Matt Jannusch, who correctly
diagnosed
my problem in less than 1/2 hour and even offered a replacement
O-ring
part number before I found the culprit. Thanks to everyone else who
also
helped.
Philip
(now almost a 500-hp monster
;-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:11:31
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale - EGR Block off plates
I have been off the list due to
email problems...now all cleared up.
I make these and will sell them for 23
shipped. You get 1 EGR plate
and 2 plates for the tube on either end. Gaskets
and bolts are your
problem. NA's can't use them but these were made for a
fellow board
member so I made a bunch of them. Thay are on the 3SI board for
more
deatails..I have about 10 sets left and will be making more.
these
are sold for 45-70 bucks everywhere and they never have them
in
stock. I got em' ready to go. If you paypal me please make the
payment
for 24.50
enjoy the day
email me privately for mailing addy for
Money Order
bobk.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:11:45
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Driveshaft Carrier Question
Dakken: What are the driveshaft
carriers? I have too much slop in the
driveshaft. Can this be a carrier
problem? Satan says not to worry but I
hear more clunk that I want to hear
and I am concerned. I look forward to
your reply.
Andy
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 16, 2002 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch work in
Sac
| I have my new RPS 6 puck sprung clutch in now. It seems that
I replaced
my
| clutch just in time. My old one had less than half a
millimeter before it
| would have scored my fly wheel.
|
| The new
clutch feels like it is grabbing more than my old one. It is hard
| for
me to say for sure since I have never had a 6 puck clutch and my stock
| one
was slipping since I bought the car in December. I did have to adjust
|
my pedal free play. I guess that can be expected going to a different
|
clutch. I bleed the clutch just in case but it didn't need bleeding.
I
did
| try to run 15 psi of boost in 5th gear to see if the new clutch
would slip
| the the old one. I blew my &^%$#@ Y pipe off driving
home in rush hour
| traffic. Once I got home and installed a Pepsi(tm)
1 liter bottle to hold
| it on, I was able to run 15 psi of boost and do a
5000 rpm AWD launch.
I'm
| happy.
|
| The work was done by the
Clutch House of Citrus Heights (a suburb of
| Sacramento). Overal the
work is good. The mechanic ran into trouble
| removing my DP from the
front pre-cat. I left instruction to remove the
| front pre-cat with
the DP but he did not recieve it. That cost them about
| an hour more
labor cutting a rusty stud out of the pre-cat and installing
a
|
bolt. I was not charged for that. I found it curious that they put
high
| temperature RTV on all my exhaust gaskets when they reinstalled
my
exhaust.
|
| The mechanic did catch a problem that could potentially
cost me a lot of
| money in the future. My carriers on my drive shaft
going to my rear
| differential are shot. They both have over 1" of
play in them. I will
have
| them replace my carriers this friday for
$330 parts included.
|
| Total bill was $317 for labor, throwout bearing
and tax.
|
| Contact info for the Clutch House is:
|
|
(916)722-7774
| 7208 Auburn Blvd.
| Citrus Heights, CA 95610
|
| The
manager's name is Ray.
|
| They also have other shops in Santa Cruz,
Fresno, Reno, Bakersfield and
| Carson City.
|
| I don't know if the
other shops will give you the same deal as this one
gave
| me but it is
worth a shot.
|
| Doug
| 92 Stealth RT TT
| Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter,
DN Performance Downpipe, gutted
| pre-cats, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump,
Stillen
| cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake lines, DSM 450cc injectors,
| Direct Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec
exhaust wrap, RPS 6 puck street
| clutch.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:23:26
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: For Sale - EGR Block off plates
Wow! Those sound great! I think
they should reduce Plenum air temps quite a
bit, right? Way better deal than
anywhere else? You got Pictures for us Bob?
Tyson
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of ek2mfg
Sent: Wednesday, July
17, 2002 12:12 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: For
Sale - EGR Block off plates
I have been off the list due to email
problems...now all cleared up.
I make these and will sell them for 23
shipped. You get 1 EGR plate
and 2 plates for the tube on either end. Gaskets
and bolts are your
problem. NA's can't use them but these were made for a
fellow board
member so I made a bunch of them. Thay are on the 3SI board for
more
deatails..I have about 10 sets left and will be making more.
these
are sold for 45-70 bucks everywhere and they never have them
in
stock. I got em' ready to go. If you paypal me please make the
payment
for 24.50
enjoy the day
email me privately for mailing addy for
Money Order
bobk.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:34:31
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: For Sale - EGR Block off plates
Good point Ty, here is the
link to the thread on 3si.org the pic is
about in the middle of the
page...just did a count and I have 10 sets
left
exactly.
bobk
all on line===
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=213977466c21b5c00ac8aa9b8f058046&threadid=85975&perpage=15&pagenumber=6
-
---- Original Message ----
From:
tigran@tigran.comTo:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
For Sale - EGR Block off plates
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:23:26
-0700
>Wow! Those sound great! I think they should reduce Plenum air
temps
>quite a
>bit, right? Way better deal than anywhere else? You
got Pictures for
>us
Bob?
>
>Tyson
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On
>Behalf
>Of ek2mfg
>Sent:
Wednesday, July 17, 2002 12:12 PM
>To:
team3s@team3s.com>Subject: Team3S:
For Sale - EGR Block off plates
>
>I have been off the list due to
email problems...now all cleared up.
>I make these and will sell them for
23 shipped. You get 1 EGR plate
>and 2 plates for the tube on either end.
Gaskets and bolts are your
>problem. NA's can't use them but these were
made for a fellow board
>member so I made a bunch of them. Thay are on the
3SI board for more
>deatails..I have about 10 sets left and will be making
more. these
>are sold for 45-70 bucks everywhere and they never have them
in
>stock. I got em' ready to go. If you paypal me please make
the
>payment for 24.50
>
>enjoy the day
>
>email
me privately for mailing addy for Money Order
>bobk.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 14:10:22
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Driveshaft Carrier Question
Andy,
the carrier bearings, also called
center support bearings, are what hold
the driveshaft in place to the
chassis. Our bearings often have much
play in them, as much as
1". Excessive play can lead to a notchy
driveshaft and eventually a
failing one, but I've never heard of a
driveshaft completely failing.
This play isn't usually the cause of the
"clunk". that's slop in the
differential. A simple test is to lift the
car completely off the
ground and grab the driveshaft. Rotate it and
you'll see that there's
a good amount of backlash before the gears fully
mesh. From what I've
seen, this is normal. You can let out the clutch
slower and the clunk
should subside.
Damon
Andrew Woll wrote:
> Dakken:
What are the driveshaft carriers? I have too much slop in the
>
driveshaft. Can this be a carrier problem? Satan says not to worry but I
>
hear more clunk that I want to hear and I am concerned. I look forward
to
> your reply.
>
> Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 14:49:28
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Driveshaft Carrier Question
> Dakken: What are the
driveshaft carriers? I have too much slop in the
> driveshaft. Can this be
a carrier problem? Satan says not to worry but I
> hear more clunk that I
want to hear and I am concerned. I look forward to
> your
reply.
The carriers are, as Damon pointed out, the two bearings that
support the
drive shaft that goes to the rear differential. I can't
find anywhere in
the repair manual an allowable amount of play. The
amount of play in mine
seems a bit too much and I would rather replace them
now than replace the
whole assembly later.
Mine doesn't clunk when I
drive but I do hear a it making noise when I am on
the highway. It
sounds like a "whump, whump, whump" about as loud as my
exhaust as I'm
driving on the highway. It is very similar to when I had a
bad wheel
bearing in my other car.
Does anyone know what an acceptable amount of
play in the drive shaft is?
Or if anyone has a low mileage car, could you
tell us how much play is in
your drive shaft?
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:21:52
-0700
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
That all depends on the clutch... some
clutches NEED to be broken in HARD!
(Say so right in the
paperwork). But alas most of our less than extreeme
grip clutches do
not need the excessive heat to promote grip.
>From: "Matt Jannusch"
<
mjannusch@attbi.com>
>To:
"dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>, <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
>Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 22:35:53
-0500
>
> > I did try to run 15 psi of boost in 5th gear to see
if the
> > new clutch would slip the the old one. I blew
my
> > &^%$#@ Y pipe off driving home in rush hour traffic.
>
> Once I got home and installed a Pepsi(tm) 1 liter bottle
> > to
hold it on, I was able to run 15 psi of boost and do
> > a 5000 rpm AWD
launch. I'm happy.
>
>You just put in a brand new clutch and
you are doing 5000 RPM launches?
>Hope you don't need the clutch to last
long. You really need to break it
>in
>easy for the first
300-500 miles if you want it to last.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#900
***************************************