Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, July 16
2002 Volume 01 : Number
899
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Jul 2002 16:23:40 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
Hi Team,
I feel now that my
car has an array of air/fuel problems. What could cause
all that? Does some
single cause comes to your minds?
Problems:
1) Car takes too long
to start. I have to crank it for about 5-10 full
seconds before it starts. It
sounds lean. That problem appeared about two
months ago, before I upgraded
the injectors.
2) The O2 voltage drops when I step on gas. The voltage
goes above 0.5V
only after boost reaches 7 psi. Making the mixture richer is
not helping
much.
3) I am currently running 550 cc injectors (cleaned
and tested) and my
AVC-R is set to only -12% across the board. That should be
awfully rich,
but the driveability is about average and I still run lean in
many regimes
and not too rich at WOT. This problem sounds similar to what
Brian Geddes
had with his 440 injectors, which did not seem to need an A/F
controller.
How did this story end?
Please advice me what to check. I
have almost installed a fuel pressure
gauge, but I suspect that the fuel
pressure is normal. Please advice me
what to check.
Thanks.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 20:45:50
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
> 1) Car takes too long to start.
I have to crank
> it for about 5-10 full seconds before it starts.
>
It sounds lean. That problem appeared about two
> months ago, before I
upgraded the injectors.
Do you have an aftermarket fuel pump? If
so, check the
O-ring on the pump to make sure it wasn't damaged during
reassembly. If the O-ring is damaged it'll do that. If
you
have a way to measure fuel pressure, make sure you
are actually getting
pressure right away, and the lines
should hold pressure with the car off for
a while.
> 2) The O2 voltage drops when I step on gas. The
>
voltage goes above 0.5V only after boost reaches
> 7 psi. Making the
mixture richer is not helping
> much.
Intake leak? How rich
have you tried going on the S-
AFC? On my PMS I have +2% at 2200 rpm,
-16% at 4000
RPM, -26% at 6000 RPM (at the low load settings), and
then
tapering to more negative numbers the higher the
throttle position.
I
know the math doesn't work, but that works in the real
world on my
car.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
(Dead tranny on the way to the
dragstrip Saturday)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 14:36:19
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Anti-sway Bar Installation Question (Help?)
After much
struggling, I've *almost* come to the conclusion that the Saner
front
anti-sway bar will not fit on my VR-4.
I got the stock one off and
I have the Saner bar on the car, but not bolted
up.
The
driver's side bracket seems to bolt up just fine. A little tight,
but
the holes line up and the bracket can be tightened down. It
doesn't
interfere with anything and the bar rotates in the bushing just
fine.
The endlinks bolt up just fine, but I removed them for
maneuverability while
I bolt up the bushing brackets.
It doesn't seem
like the passenger's side bracket can be bolted up. The bar
actually
contacts the frame crossmember about 2-3" inboard of the
passenger's side
bracket. I've tried disconnecting the endlinks, rotating
the bar,
sliding it to the left or right, and just about every other way of
fiddling
with it and I can't get the bar to NOT contact the crossmember.
It
seems like you'd need about a 3/8" to 1/2" spacer between the
passenger's
side bracket and the crossmember to be able to bolt this thing
up.
I don't get it. I don't think there's any way I could have the
bar in
upside down or backwards or anything because there's no way the bar
would
even be close if it were positioned upside down or backwards. The
"hump" in
the middle goes *upward* right? Like, to clear the transfer
case, right?
:-)
You can look at the pictures below to see what I'm
talking about.
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/FSway/page1.htmlHelp?
-
--Erik
P.S. I think I may have managed to partially cross-thread
one of the bolts
on the sway-bar bushing bracket. @#%$#@ tapered-ed
bolts... If so, it's
not too badly crossed up. If I did damage
the threads, can I just take a
tap and run it through the hole, use a new
bolt, and expect to be good? Or
do I need to do something
else?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 15:40:25
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Anti-sway Bar Installation Question (Help?)
I have the
Saner on my '95 VR4.
Call Rob York at 303-823-6064 and ask him about
installation.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 3:36 PM
To:
Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Front Anti-sway Bar Installation
Question (Help?)
After much struggling, I've *almost* come to the
conclusion that the Saner
front anti-sway bar will not fit on my VR-4.
I got the stock one off and I have the Saner bar on the car, but not
bolted
up.
The driver's side bracket seems to bolt up just
fine. A little tight, but
the holes line up and the bracket can be
tightened down. It doesn't
interfere with anything and the bar rotates in the
bushing just fine.
The endlinks bolt up just fine, but I removed them for
maneuverability while
I bolt up the bushing brackets.
It doesn't seem
like the passenger's side bracket can be bolted up. The bar
actually
contacts the frame crossmember about 2-3" inboard of the
passenger's side
bracket. I've tried disconnecting the endlinks, rotating
the bar,
sliding it to the left or right, and just about every other way of
fiddling
with it and I can't get the bar to NOT contact the crossmember.
It
seems like you'd need about a 3/8" to 1/2" spacer between the
passenger's
side bracket and the crossmember to be able to bolt this thing
up.
I don't get it. I don't think there's any way I could have the
bar in
upside down or backwards or anything because there's no way the bar
would
even be close if it were positioned upside down or backwards. The
"hump" in
the middle goes *upward* right? Like, to clear the transfer
case, right?
:-)
You can look at the pictures below to see what I'm
talking about.
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/FSway/page1.htmlHelp?
-
--Erik
P.S. I think I may have managed to partially cross-thread
one of the bolts
on the sway-bar bushing bracket. @#%$#@ tapered-ed
bolts... If so, it's
not too badly crossed up. If I did damage
the threads, can I just take a
tap and run it through the hole, use a new
bolt, and expect to be good? Or
do I need to do something
else?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 14:40:55
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
> 1) Car takes too long to
start. I have to crank it for about 5-10 full
> seconds before it starts.
It sounds lean. That problem appeared about two
> months ago, before I
upgraded the injectors.
After disconnecting my fuel system to replace the
fuel pump, fuel filter,
fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator, it took
about that long for my
car to start up with the fuel system empty. Have
you checked for a possible
leak?
When was the last time you replaced
your fuel filter? If it is clogged then
that may cause your problems as
well. If you have over 60,000 miles or
40,000 miles on cheap gas then I
would definately replace it.
It sounds like you have a data logger.
Take a look at your injector duty
cycle. At WOT, 450 injectors, SAFC at
-20%, and 15 psi of boost, I have a
duty cycle of 60%. I am assuming
you meant a SAFC when you said AVC-R.
With your SAFC at -12%, your duty cycle
should be significantly higher than
60%. Maybe 80%?
I would
definately install the fuel pressure guage. It looks like you have
a
fuel problem.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 15:11:25
-0700
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
OK... the Stealth TT is starting to feel like
an automatic... guess that
last run at sac raceway killed what little was
left on the clutch. =)
I'll looking to see if anyone knows a "good place"
in the Sacramento area
that does this... and at what cost could I
expect. After doing the 60K
service (oh my) I really rather someone
else so the work, esp. seeing as you
have to take the world off the change
the damn clutch! (Granted I'd do it
myself if anyone wants to buy me a lift)
=P
- -Jamie
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 15:49:27
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
I am having my clutch replaced tomorrow by
the Clutch House in Citrus
Heights (a suburb of Sacramento). I am
having them install a RPS 6 puck
street clutch. They do standard stock
clutches as well. If you have a
stock clutch installed, then they will
give you a lifetime warranty on the
clutch (you still pay labor to have it
replaced). They don't have after
market clutches but they do install
them. I spoke with the owner and he has
done many 3S cars. He is
charging me $280 for the install with me providing
the parts.
I am
having my clutch replaced because it is slipping at high boost and high
rpm
launches. I was planning on upgrading the clutch later but now I
have
an excuse to do it now.
I'll post an update tomorrow night after
I have the new clutch installed.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 16:24:16
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch work in Sac
280.00 WOW That is pretty inexpensive.
Let us know how everything goes. I
may need a clutch soon and I am just up
the hill in Placerville.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
"Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 15, 2002 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch work in
Sac
| I am having my clutch replaced tomorrow by the Clutch House in
Citrus
| Heights (a suburb of Sacramento). I am having them install a
RPS 6 puck
| street clutch. They do standard stock clutches as
well. If you have a
| stock clutch installed, then they will give you a
lifetime warranty on the
| clutch (you still pay labor to have it
replaced). They don't have after
| market clutches but they do install
them. I spoke with the owner and he
has
| done many 3S cars.
He is charging me $280 for the install with me
providing
| the
parts.
|
| I am having my clutch replaced because it is slipping at high
boost and
high
| rpm launches. I was planning on upgrading the
clutch later but now I have
| an excuse to do it now.
|
| I'll post an
update tomorrow night after I have the new clutch installed.
|
| Doug
|
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 17:06:55
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Front Anti-sway Bar Installation Question (Help?)
Thanks,
Darren. Damon had already e-mailed me privately that I hadn't used
the
supplied spacers to mount the new bushing brackets. That should do
it.
I got all the hardware for the front and rear bars in one bag, so I
had
thought the other metal pieces and bolts were for the rear bar...
I'll get
things taken care of tonight.
- --Erik
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Are you using the
supplied brackets? I can't remember if it is the
> rear bar that
needs the longer bolts and brackets to use or the front
> one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 23:11:33
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Subject:
RE: Team3S: Different Rear valve cover
Sorry for being so
late in getting back to you but I am just getting around
to catching up on my
email reading. Sorry no I haven't gotten a 96+ (newer)
plenum with
OBD-II connection on the rear, next to the TB yet. I am still
looking
for a used one, if anyone has one and would like to sell it please
let me
know. I did find a new one for $360, but I don't think anyone
would
want to pay a core charge like that.
I do have front valve
covers cores, I can use, and I did find out that the
rear valve cover is
different for the 6-speed models than for the 5-speed.
If haven't done so
lately you may want to check out my web page on polishing
and powder coating,
I have several new styles of plates and as always I sell
them to Team 3S
members for $60, polished and custom powder coated in almost
what ever color
you'd like.
Thanks,
Dave Best
http://www.omni-vr4.com/DBest/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 25, 2002 4:01 PM
Subject: Subject: RE: Team3S: Different Rear
valve cover
> Tried sending this directly but got some weird
error. Hope you come
across this on the list.
> I noticed your
post about the rear valve cover, and was wondering if you
got any cores in
for my 1997 VR4 yet ? Either the intake,
> or front rocker cover
?
>
> You wouldn't happen to have radiator brackets would you
?
>
> Thanks
> Anthony Melillo
>
>
> Date:
Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:32:28 -0400
> From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Different Rear valve cover
>
> Hoping
someone who's out there can give me a quick answer. As
you
probably
> know I polish and powder coat valve covers, but I don't
ususally do the
rear
> valve cover. However I have 2 on my table
right now - and I just noticed
> that they're different. One
has a flared out semi-circular area where the
> timing belt runs (driver's
side bottom corner) and the timing belt cover
> attaches, the other is
boxed off square just like the front valve cover.
I
> know my '92 VR-4
has the boxed off style. What is this flared out
verison -
> is
it a model year change? Is it turbo vs. non-turbo?? Is it
>
interchangable? (It doesn't look like it is).
> Any help or insight here
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> - - Dave Best
> '92
VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 00:31:47
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tranny flush
For adjusting the accelerator pedal this is what the
manual states but I
don't know if you are saying that the pedal itself is
loose or the cable
is loose. This looks like it is dealing with the
cable. If it is your
pedal then see if it is similar to the brake pedal
with an adjustment
nut in the footwell that you can adjust to take up some of
this slack.
Page 17-4
ACCELERATOR CABLE CHECK AND
ADJUSTMENT
For models equipped with the cruise control system, refer to
P.17-31.
(1) Check the accelerator cable for sharp bends.
(2) Check to
ensure that the throttle lever is in contact with the
engine speed adjusting
screw.
(3) Check to ensure that the inner cable play is within the
standard
limits.
Standard
value:
<M/T> l-2 mm (.04-.08
in.)
<A/T> 3-5 mm (.12-.20 in.)
(4)
If the play is out of the standard limits, loosen the adjusting
bolts, slide
the plate so that the inner cable play will fall within the
standard limits,
and then retighten the adjusting bolts.
ACCELERATOR SWITCH CHECK AND
ADJUSTMENT (1992 models)
Make sure that when the accelerator pedal is
free, there is continuity
between the terminals of the accelerator switch and
that when the pedal
is pressed until the indicated pedal stroke A reaches the
standard
value, there is no continuity between the terminals of the
switch. If
stroke A is out of specification, adjust with adjusting
bolt.
Standard value:
Accelerator switch switching point 2-6 mm (.08-.24 in.)
Page
17-31
CRUISE CONTROL CABLES CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT
(1) Set the air
conditioning, lights and other switches to OFF for
inspection at no
load.
(2) Let the engine warm up until it runs at idle.
(3) Check that the
idle speed is within the specified range.
(4) Stop the engine and set the
ignition switch to OFF.
(5) Check that the accelerator cable, cruise control
cable and throttle
cable are routed without sharp bends.
(6) Depress the
accelerator pedal to check that the throttle lever moves
smoothly from the
fully-closed to fully-opened position.
(7) Check the free travel state of the
inner cables of the accelerator
cable, cruise control cable and throttle
cable.
(8) If the inner cables are too loose or have no free travel at
all,
check using the following procedure.
1) Remove the link
protector.
2) Loosen the adjusting and lock nuts of the throttle
lever
and intermediate links A, B and C to place the throttle
lever
and intermediate links A, B and C in the free
state.
3) Set the ignition switch to ON (do not start the
engine).
4) Rotate intermediate link C in the direction shown
until it
is blocked by the stopper, turn down adjusting nut C in
the
direction that the free travel of the inner cable is
reduced,
and back off adjusting nut C the specified number of
turns
just before intermediate link C begins to
move.
Amount adjusting nut C is to be backed
off:
<M/T> ~l/2 turn
[inner cable free travel 0-l mm (0-.04
in.)]
<A/T> ~2 turns
[inner cable free travel 2-3 mm (.08-.12 in.)]
5) Secure the
accelerator cable with the lock nut.
6) Turn down adjusting nut
B in the direction that the free
travel of the inner cable of
the throttle cable is reduced.
At the position where the lever
of intermediate link B is
brought into contact with intermediate
link C, back off
adjusting nut B the specified number of
turns.
Amount adjusting nut B is to be backed
off:
About one turn [inner cable free travel l-2 mm (.04-.08
in.)]
7) Secure the throttle cable with the lock
nut.
8) Secure the adjusting bolt of the intake manifold
plenum.
9) Turn down adjusting nut A in the direction that the
free
travel of the inner cable of the cruise control cable
is
reduced. At the position where the lever of
intermediate
link A is brought into contact with intermediate
link B,
back off adjusting nut A the specified number of
turns.
Amount adjusting nut A is to be backed
off:
~1 turn [inner cable
free travel l-2 mm (.04-.08 in.)]
10) Secure the cruise control
cable with the lock nut.
11) After adjustment, check to see that
the end of the
engine speed adjusting screw is in contact with
the stopper
of the throttle lever.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Saturday,
July 13, 2002 13:49
Also, how do you tighten the gas pedals in our cars?
mine is lose
thanx
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 17:58:10
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
It is likely that your oxy
sensor is on its way out.
Steve
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 02:32:17
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
At 01:58 7/16/2002, Steve Cooper
wrote:
>It is likely that your oxy sensor is on its way
out.
>
>Steve
Nope. I just installed new ones.
The O2
sensors are not as important as I thought they would be. I
disconnected them
completely and drove normally without any noticeable
changes for about five
miles around town before the check engine light came
on. So, I guess, those
O2 sensors are not used for any real-time feedback,
just to tweak the fuel
maps slightly over time.
I installed the fuel pressure gauge. Will be
checking fuel pressure tomorrow.
Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 02:46:55
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
At 02:32 7/16/2002, Philip V.
Glazatov wrote:
>At 01:58 7/16/2002, Steve Cooper wrote:
>>It is
likely that your oxy sensor is on its way
out.
>>
>>Steve
>
>Nope. I just installed new
ones.
>
>The O2 sensors are not as important as I thought they would
be. I
>disconnected them completely and drove normally without any
noticeable
>changes for about five miles around town before the check
engine light
>came on. So, I guess, those O2 sensors are not used for any
real-time
>feedback, just to tweak the fuel maps slightly over
time.
>
>I installed the fuel pressure gauge. Will be checking fuel
pressure tomorrow.
>
>Philip
OOPS! What did I just say! No,
the O2 sensors are used for real-time
feedback at partial throttle. I just
wanted to say that I expected some
changes when that feedback is not
available. But, I guess, I have not
tested what happens if the O2 sensors
send incorrect voltage.
Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 01:03:22
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
BBQ brake pads - redux
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob
Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
-
----------snip--------------->
For me, BBQing is much better, and the
brakes seem to last longer. I'm
copying this post to Andie Lin
(formerly at Carbotech, now with his own
company) - perhaps he can do a test
for us with his new pads, with- and
without a BBQ procedure. He runs
his NSX at the track and can give us butt
dyno data, plus he has the testing
equipment to either debunk a myth or prove
the validity of BBQ-ing brake pads
once and for all.
- ------------------------------->
Fortunately,
Andie replied at length, off-list so as not to take up too
much
bandwidth. I've added some of our list discussions from a couple
of days ago
to our "Brake BBQ" web page, since we covered some important
issues, IMO.
I've also added Andie's 'primer' on the advantages of
heat-treating brake pads
before installation... Some pretty interesting
stuff there, and it's worth a
read. It's especially important for
racers, but applies to anyone who uses
performance street pads or race pads
on their car.
www.Team3S.com/FAQbrakeBBQ.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 10:17:19
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS type
Is there a chart that lists what type of ABS unit is in
each car? I
read in the Archives that a 4-phase ABS can not exist on
our AWD cars.
So that means we AWD folks must have the 2-phase set and I
think this is
a Bosch setup.
I found an article that, depending on the
type of ABS unit, it might not
actuate when the car is on or off but only
when powered so even bleeding
the brakes with the car turned on (the
recommended procedure) you still
might not bleed out all the fluid.
Is
there any truth to this? I was told that starting the car gets the
ABS
unit moving some fluid through but I can see how it might not
activate unless
there was a need for it to do so.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Date:
Mon, 17 Jan 2000 17:59:51 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question about ABS
Genesiscon Lehir wrote:
>
> I
do NOT know about the one in the Mitsu 3000, but I know the '92
>
RT/TT...and it SUCKS...
I assume that the system in the 3000GT is
identical to that in the
Stealth, and I don't know if any improvements were
made in the 2nd
gens. In my car, straight line stopping distances with
ABS seem
excessive, but when I have to steer, control is
adequate.
Remember that we canNOT have four-phase ABS due to AWD!
So it is not
surprising that some cars (2WD) have more effective ABS than our
cars.
Also keep in mind that many of us are running on tires that are
perhaps
less than optimal for cold weather conditions.
> ABS will
ALWAYS allow you to TURN...this is not the point...NOT
breaking at
>
all
> allows you to turn as well.....point is....you MAY be able to
steer
without
> thinking about the panic stop....BUT....you'll need a
LONGER distance
to
> stop. And IMHO, TWICE the distance is NOT
acceptable....
This was the point of my original post. ABS is
indespendible for
steering control when at threshold braking. BUT, when
NOT turning, it
seems like a DISadvantage. Hence the idea of a switch
that is activated
by the steering angle sensor. If lack of ABS and
experience causes the
car to begin spinning, then a steering correction will
reactivate ABS,
which will likely save your butt.
I think Roger's (and
others') point is that in some situations (eg-
extreme traction difference
between left and right side) the spin could
be so abrupt that it might be too
late for the driver to react and
recover, even when ABS kicks in.
>
Just a clarification....I'm not telling that eveyone should
disable
their
> ABS...
> In __MY__ case, I do the
following
>
> DRY : ABS : ON
> WET : ABS : ON
> SNOW:
ABS : OFF (and I got that nice light to remind me it's off)
Well, I don't
think I'd go that far! :-| I think I'm pretty good at
avoiding
lockup without ABS, too, but I'm not as good as ABS is
(especially in a panic
situation)! And in the Alps, there's no reset
button when you miss the
curve and take a short cut down the mountain...
- - --
Jim
Matthews 3SI #30
Wiesbaden, Germany
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 08:30:29
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth active aero
Was I hallucinating yesterday or did I
actually see a white 96 Stealth TT
with its rear wing apparently in the up
position?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 11:07:45
-0400
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth active aero
Stealth's never had AA. But, the wing on the
96's does curve up more than
the 91-95. That might give the illusion of is
being in the "UP" position.
Alan
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth active aero
> Was I hallucinating yesterday or did I
actually see a white 96 Stealth TT
> with its rear wing apparently in the
up position?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 11:11:29
-0400
From: "Michael A Scott" <
omnitech@fast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth active aero
Stealth's never came with Active Aero. only
the 3000GT's
Scotty
92 Stealth RT TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 16, 2002 10:30 AM
Subject: Team3S: Stealth active
aero
> Was I hallucinating yesterday or did I actually see a white 96
Stealth TT
> with its rear wing apparently in the up position?
>
> Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
> formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 09:22:34
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth active aero
That's it! I didn't think it was moveable but
I wanted to ask.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F,
TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 7/16/02 8:44
AM, Morice, Francis at
francis.morice@retek.com
scribbled:
> Did it look like this? If so, that is the 96 as spoiler
it sits.
>
> Francis
> '96
RT/TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Desert Fox [mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002
9:30 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth active aero
>
> Was I hallucinating
yesterday or did I actually see a white 96 Stealth TT
> with its rear wing
apparently in the up position?
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95
black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> formerly
reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 12:48:22
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
Thanks to everyone who
responded. I diagnosed the problem today on the way
to work. It is low fuel
pressure that becomes even lower at WOT, just like
several people suggested.
Thanks, guys.
My fuel pressure sucks. It is no good. Check it
out:
Idle Cruise 12psi
12psi_boost@red line
Boost
PSIG
-11 -6
12 12
Fuel,
PSIG
28 26
38 32
Difference,
PSI
39 33
25 20 <--- should be a
constant 43 psi
!!!
I fabbed a differential fuel pressure gauge. It is an electrical
gauge
with a sending unit. I supply boost pressure to the other side of
the
diaphragm of the sending unit, thus measuring differential fuel
pressure,
or in other words, the difference between the fuel pressure and the
boost.
That pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator and should
stay
CONSTANT 43 psi at all times. Instead, I see it steadily decline with
load
all the way down to 20 psi.
Scary! If I did not have an O2 gauge,
my engine would have been toast by
now.
I will be fiddling with my
Supra fuel pump, trying to figure out what is
wrong with it. It is either
some seal that causes an internal leak, or a
defective pump. I bought the
pump new from Dynamic Racing and I have been
using it for the last two
months.
I was pulling off from a parking lot today after lunch and saw a
full 43
psi for almost whole minute. Then the pressure dropped down to what
it was
before. So, to make things just a little worse, the problem
is
intermittent.
Philip
-
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Problems:
1)
Car takes too long to start. I have to crank it for about 5-10 full
seconds
before it starts. It sounds lean. That problem appeared about two
months ago,
before I upgraded the injectors.
2) The O2 voltage drops when I step on
gas. The voltage goes above 0.5V
only after boost reaches 7 psi. Making the
mixture richer is not helping
much.
3) I am currently running 550 cc
injectors (cleaned and tested) and my
AVC-R is set to only -12% across the
board. That should be awfully rich,
but the driveability is about average and
I still run lean in many regimes
and not too rich at WOT. This problem sounds
similar to what Brian Geddes
had with his 440 injectors, which did not seem
to need an A/F controller.
How did this story end?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 17:02:30
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
> I will be fiddling with my
Supra fuel pump,
> trying to figure out what is wrong with
> it. It
is either some seal that causes an
> internal leak, or a defective
pump.
Also try running a vacuum hose straight from the
throttle body
lines to the fuel pressure regulator,
bypassing the FPR solenoid. It
could be that your FPR
solenoid is stuck open so it lets atmospheric
pressure
in instead of boost pressure. Not super-likely, but
possible. Make sure the right connectors are attached
to the
correct solenoids on the firewall.
If you pull the pump, take a real
careful look at the O-
ring on the pump. If there's any little thing
wrong
with it, replace it. I can send you a spare O-ring if
you
want, or get you the part number I used from Borg-
Warner.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
(Broken)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 10:25:49
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Accelerator Cable Adjustment WAS: Tranny flush
>
Also, how do you tighten the gas pedals in our cars? mine is lose
Oh
yeah, I forgot I have a web page about that.
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/AccCable/AccCable.html-
--Erik
[but still nowhere near as cool as Lucius :D ]
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 13:27:06
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: A bunch of Air/Fuel problems
> Also try running a vacuum
hose straight from the
> throttle body lines to the fuel pressure
regulator,
> bypassing the FPR solenoid. It could be that your
FPR
> solenoid is stuck open so it lets atmospheric pressure
> in
instead of boost pressure. Not super-likely, but
> possible.
Make sure the right connectors are attached
> to the correct solenoids on
the firewall.
Please forgive me for not looking up the STIM, I do not
have the web
access from here. What does the FPR solenoid do? I though that
we do not
need any FPR solenoids because the FPR itself should regulate the
fuel
pressure.
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
(Broken)
What happened?? :(
- - Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 12:52:00
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Sway Bar, Round II
Ok, so I got the spacers in between the
crossmember and the bushing brackets
and the clearances are ok.
However, now the problem is that the holes in
the bracket/spacer don't
exactly line up with the holes in the crossmember.
They're not off by much,
but it's enough that I can't thread the lower bolt
in. If I use a pry
bar to move the bracket inboard 1/8" I can get the bolt
in the hole, but
there's some tension on the bolt when I try to thread it
in. It's
enough tension that I'm not confident that the bolt isn't cross
threaded (or
that the tension wouldn't cross-thread it). It's REALLY tight
in there
and I definitely don't want to force anything. I'm hesitant to
enlarge
the holes in the spacer and bushing bracket to allow the holes to
line up
with the ones on the car, but I suppose I could if I have to.
Has
anyone else had this problem when installing the Saner front sway bar for
a
TT car?
In case it matters, I've started with the driver's side
bracket, top bolt.
That went in fine. The driver's side bottom bolt is
the one that doesn't
line up correctly. I already know that the
passenger's side top bolt will
be fun, and I stopped there last night because
I was getting frustrated.
Anyone have any suggestions?
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4 with partially installed front sway bar
"so close, yet so
far away..."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 23:04:37
+0100
From: "Dr.Ing. R e n a t o F R A N Z E L L I N -
Bureau d'Čtudes" <
franzellin@monaco377.com>
Subject:
Team3S: stealth consumption increase
after an exaust mannifold reparation
through one authorised Mitsubishi
dealer here in Monaco, my
Stealth Turbo with 180000km became 2 problems
1) the gasoline
consumption increased from 12 liters/100 km to 18
Liters/100 km
but
all stechiometer parameters are ok
2) when the turbo is only
at 0 level, the speed only 130 Km/h and the
street is mounting, the
water temperature increases still the maximum,
stopping the air conditioning,
but when the street is flat within 30 seconds
the temperature goes down and
everything is normal.
the mitsubishi dealer already:
a)
changed one electronic card (i do not know which one but expensive)
b)
polished with ultrawawes the injectors
c) changed the complete exaust
pipeline
d) checked all parameters
but now at 220000km the
problems are still the sames
Please give me all kind of
ideas
Thanks
Renato
(Monaco)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#899
***************************************